How to lay a solid board with the glue method using plywood: step by step instructions. Natural covering: solid wood - DIY installation Solid wood floors on glue

The process of laying a solid board is technologically difficult and responsible, errors in which, subsequently, can lead to deformation of the parquet and the need to replace it.

The price of laying a solid board

The minimum scope of work is 20 sq.m. (with a smaller amount of work, the cost of work is calculated for 20 sq.m.).

The main thing to remember is that a massive board cannot be laid on a "warm floor", hot water supply and heating routes. In addition, such a floor cannot be laid in a room where the microclimate is characterized by high humidity (except for certain types of wood), for example: in a bath, sauna, swimming pool.

The main technological stages of laying solid wood:

• Checking the basis for compliance with the requirements (GosT and SNIP)
• Base primer
• Laying plywood
• Laying solid boards

What you can lay a solid board on. Types of bases for parquet

There are several types of bases for parquet, which in one case or another must be used:

Cement-sand screed (most common).

The main condition is that the base must be dry. The moisture percentage of the base must not exceed 4%. Also, the base must be sufficiently solid, strong and not subject to delamination and deformation changes. There should not be more than 2 mm differences at the base for 2 m. With an ideal temperature / humidity ratio (humidity from 40 to 60% and temperatures from 20 to 25 degrees), with a layer of concrete screed up to 50 mm thick, it will dry for at least 30 days.

Laying on such a floor cannot yet be carried out, reinforced concrete panels, in fact, represent a "bare" floor. Initially, such a base needs to be leveled, best of all with a cement-sand screed or by means of wooden logs.

Plank base made of wood-based materials.

It is a well-laid wooden floor (maybe the same parquet). Since such a coating may not suit for aesthetic reasons, it can be used as a base for parquet (if the permissible planned height and quality of laying the wooden base itself allows). Before using such a base, it is necessary to carefully check it, as well as eliminate defects in the form of squeaks, swaying, etc.

Wooden logs.

As a rule, logs are dried bars with dimensions from 30x30 to 120x120 mm, depending on the personality of an apartment or house. The logs are laid at a distance of 300-400 mm obliquely relative to the chosen direction of laying the parquet. Then they are leveled and drilled with special dowels to the base. It turns out the so-called "honeycomb". In the future, if desired, insulation, expanded clay can be laid in the honeycomb, which will allow you to insulate your floor.

Further, moisture-resistant plywood is installed on the logs with an offset, which is drilled with self-tapping screws. On top of the first layer of the plywood base, one more layer of plywood is laid with an offset in a checkerboard pattern (glued and verified with self-tapping screws), also relative to the bottom layer. On top of the resulting structure, a parquet made of solid boards is glued.

Checking the base for compliance with the requirements (GosT and SNIP).

Before proceeding, directly, to the laying of the floor itself, it is necessary to check the base with the help of special equipment for compliance with the requirements of GOST and SNIP. Employees of our company are more responsible in accepting the base, since this is the "weakest link" of the "parquet pie", so our requirements are slightly toughened. The exact requirements can be found in the table below.

"Requirements for substrates for parquet"

Base primer

First of all, we clean the screed: remove excess debris, vacuum the dust and you can start priming. Prime the base on top of the screed. It is best to use a two-pack primer as it improves adhesion (promotes excellent adhesion of the adhesive).

Laying plywood

The thickness of the plywood to be laid depends on the thickness of the selected solid board. The plywood should be at least 2/3 of the plywood plank thickness. For example, on a 20 mm thick solid wood board, plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm is suitable.

The plywood for laying is fixed to the concrete base by means of a dowel-nail and with the help of glue. Laying is carried out crosswise with an offset of the seams. It is necessary to maintain a technological gap of at least 5-10 mm between two adjacent plywood sheets. Along the wall, such a gap should be at least 10-15 mm.

The adhesive is applied to the screed with a notched trowel, which regulates the adhesive consumption. For the best adhesion of plywood to the concrete floor, it is recommended to use glue with little or no water content. We sink self-tapping screws into the plywood to ensure the possibility of subsequent grinding (so as not to damage the expensive parquet grinding equipment). Plywood is a multilayer material and, according to GOST of the Russian Federation, has possible thickness deviations of +/- 1 mm. In order to obtain a perfectly flat base, we sand the plywood layer - this allows us to even out the differences in the base and remove the remnants of glue that may be on the surface of the plywood.

"Self-heating self-tapping screw in plywood"

Checking the quality of solid boards

Before you start laying solid wood parquet, it is imperative to check the quality of the product. Below is a detailed analysis for quality assurance.

FAQ for opening packages with solid boards.

2-3 packs from the batch are opened and checked for compliance with the technical characteristics *:

• The presence of mechanical damage
• Compliance with the manufacturer's declared characteristics
• Coating quality
• The level is wet
• Compliance with geometric dimensions

* “Basic regulatory requirements for a solid board. Geometry tolerances "

If any deficiencies are found, work should be stopped immediately and the supplier's representative should be called. As a rule, no more than 3 opened packages are accepted for complaint. There is also a marriage standard, fixed by the GOST of the Russian Federation, - there cannot be more than 4% of the entire batch.

Laying solid wood parquet

To begin with, a solid board must "adapt" to the room where it is planned to be laid. Especially if the work is planned for the winter. To do this, packs with a solid board must be left for 3-5 days in unopened packages indoors. The packs need to be arranged in a "house". It is recommended to open the packaging only immediately before the installation itself. The massive board is laid with glue and self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are screwed in in increments of 15-20 cm. A 3-5 mm hole is made from the side of the thorn, where a self-tapping screw is screwed in (or you can use a self-recessed self-tapping screw, for example, Spax). This procedure is necessary to prevent cracking of the wood of the board when it is laid. In the process of laying a solid board, only two-component glue is used, which is applied to plywood - this avoids premature drying. During installation, it is necessary to observe the observance of the gap along the wall. The first row of the board is laid with a groove against the wall. It is fixed through the front side in the place of the subsequent installation of the plinth. In the same way, the installation of the last row in the room is carried out. A new solid wood floor can be used within 2-3 days after it is completely dry.

We have tried to describe the entire process of laying a solid board floor quite fully. As you can see, the process has a large number of nuances and requires high qualifications of the master stacker. From our many years of experience, we can only conclude that parquet should be installed only by a parquet flooring (a person who professionally deals exclusively with wood flooring). It is much more difficult to correct mistakes made during installation than to hire a specialist. Trust this work to professionals! For all questions of interest, please contact our managers!

O an obvious fact - covering the floor with small parquet planks will take much more time than laying a massive board from a layer of wood. Why, for hundreds of years, the builders could not replace a dozen small boards with one large one? It is unlikely that the carpenters did not know how to lay a massive board, because the arrangement of wide products by gluing individual boards was done back in Ancient Greece.

Let's try to figure out why a solid board as a floor covering began to be used only recently, what it is and, finally, how to lay a solid board with our own hands.

Content.
1.
2.
2.1
2.2
3.
4.
5.
6.

What is a solid board

This elite type of flooring is the best illustration of the statement that the simpler the material, the more complex and expensive the technology for its mass production.

A solid board is simply a hardwood plate with groove-and-tenon milling along the edges, which allows many such plates to be tightly joined into a single covering. Laying a solid board with your own hands is no more difficult than laying or.

The difficulty in manufacturing is that, firstly, the board must be hard enough to resist abrasion and mechanical stress. Secondly, keep its shape with fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Thirdly, to have an attractive appearance, and, finally, laying a solid board should be within the power of even an ordinary carpenter.

Achieve this:

• A special shape. To relieve internal stresses, the board has longitudinal cuts on the lower side - "puffs".
• By treating wood with varnish, oil or oil-wax mastics, which increase its mechanical resistance. It is equally important that such processing reveals the natural texture of the wood.
• A special drying technology that does not create internal stresses in the wood, which makes it even possible to lay solid boards on.

Massive board with "puffs"

To improve the aesthetic qualities of floors made of this material, it is subjected to additional decorative processing.

The board is lightened or vice versa, tinted, covering with special ones that do not hide the natural pattern, and artificially aged. Their surfaces are treated with steel brushes (brushing), sharpening, sandblasting, etc. give a different texture. And the production of boards of various lengths allows you to type various geometric patterns by stacking a massive board.

Laying solid boards on a warm floor

Together with a warm floor, a solid board is rarely used, because, due to its significant thickness, it is a good heat insulator.

Massive boards are laid at the final stage of the renovation of the premises. This will minimize the risk of damage and deformation. And therefore, work on the installation of floors from a solid board should be started only after the windows, doors have been installed and the walls are aligned, the rough floor has been prepared and all wet work has been completed.

It is very important that the wallpaper, plaster, paint, concrete dry thoroughly, and the humidity in the room does not exceed 40-60%. At the same time, the moisture content of the solid board should not be more than 12%.

However, the last remark about the moisture content of a massive board of 12% is purely theoretical, because you still cannot reduce it and this indicator reflects the quality of production. According to our research on the products on the market, the moisture content of solid oak or ash (and other European species) is 12-15%, and that of exotic species, whose timber is processed in tropical countries, is about 18%. This is partly why European breeds are inherently more stable in our climate.

It is imperative that all existing air conditioning and heating systems be activated in the room before the start of laying the solid board. The air temperature should be maintained within the range of 18-22 ° C, and for at least seven days before the start of laying the solid board.

If the laying of massive boards is planned on the ground floor directly above the basement, then it should be thoroughly ventilated.

Requirements for the quality of the subfloor for a solid board

The subfloor on which the parquet board will be laid should be as even as possible, which can be achieved by leveling grinding. The maximum permissible deviation when leveling walls and screeds should not be more than 2 mm for every 2 m.

Leveling the subfloor is the most important condition when laying solid planks and any parquet. If you do not achieve a perfectly flat surface, the solid board will begin to creak in a couple of years due to the movement of the floorboards relative to each other. The creak of a solid board is always a consequence of an uneven floor, and not of low-quality material.

It is very important to clean the sub-floor of small debris and dirt. Remove shavings, small nails, remnants of building materials, dust, grease and glue stains from it.

The difference in humidity between the subfloor and the solid board laid on top of it should not be more than 4%. In this case, the moisture content of the subfloor itself should not exceed 12%. It is possible to achieve the setting of the required humidity values ​​by thoroughly ventilating the room and eliminating possible unwanted sources of moisture. Sometimes air dryers can help solve this problem.

In addition, you need to make sure that there is no movement in the subfloor. If necessary, the sub-floor is additionally reinforced to eliminate them.

How to properly unpack and prepare a solid board for laying

In order to save yourself from unnecessary problems in the future, you should properly unpack and prepare a massive board for laying. Remember that a solid board already laid by a master is considered to be of accepted quality and, even if there are defects, cannot be returned.

After the massive board has been unpacked, it should be carefully examined and sorted by pattern and color, planning in advance how it will be laid on the subfloor. To create the most harmonious interior, set aside the boards that will best match the skirting boards and thresholds for installation next to them. Decide which boards you will be using for trimming, and where.

The unpacked and sorted solid board must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it is planned to be laid for at least three days. The same applies to all materials that will be used during the installation of solid wood flooring. Their moisture content should not exceed 12% (theoretically), but it is desirable to be in the range of 6-10%. True, it is worth noting that today on the market you cannot find a massive board with a moisture content of 6-10%, even the most expensive and exclusive. Alas, manufacturers are not ready to slow down the pace of production in order to create the perfect material.

Methods for laying solid boards on various types of subfloors

1. Laying solid boards on concrete floors

First of all, a moisture-vapor barrier should be formed, which will serve as a buffer between concrete and wood. For this, a special 3 mm thick foamed polyethylene backing can be spread or a layer of ground mastic can be laid. The finished barrier will ensure the stability of the solid board and protect it from deformation.

After that, a base is arranged for flooring a massive board, which can be done in two ways.

The first method is “screed lags”. According to this technology, as a base for a massive board, wooden blocks of rectangular cross-section - logs. Such bars are attached to the concrete base using dowels and screws, which are inserted perpendicular to the future floor. Alternatively, if there is a danger of damaging the communications under the concrete screed, you can glue the logs onto glue or bitumen-containing mastic. The distance between the attachment points should be no more than 50 cm. After laying, the bars are leveled using a level. To adjust the height of the log, chips are placed or an excess tree is removed with a plane. Optionally, you can fill the space between the logs with thermal insulation materials. This is justified if the floor is laid on the first floor of a building that does not have a basement. Then a moisture-proof film is spread over the lag, which is fixed with staples. And already on top of it, a massive board is laid.

The photo shows the correct laying of plywood diagonally in relation to the solid board.
The size of the gaps should be between 3 and 5 mm.

The second method is laying on a plywood base along a screed. Today, this is the most popular way of laying solid boards. According to this technology, moisture-resistant plywood is used as a base, the thickness of which should be 15-18 mm. Before laying, plywood sheets are cut into strips with a width of 40 to 60 cm. Moreover, a whole plywood sheet is cut along the smaller of its sides. The finished strips are laid on concrete, diagonally to the future solid wood floor. This leaves gaps: between sheets - 3-5 mm, between sheets and walls - 10 mm. It is important to understand that the plywood tiles should be spread with a shift relative to each other in order to minimize the possibility of contact of the corners. With the help of dowels and screws, the heads of which are recessed into the material, the plywood is attached to the concrete. In this case, there must be at least 9 attachment points for each strip. An alternative option for attaching plywood to concrete is glue landing. One size of the stripes in this case should be at least half as much. Before installing solid boards, plywood must be sanded with a belt sander equipped with a belt with a grain size of 40 or 60 and free of dust.

2. Laying solid boards on load-bearing wooden structures

If the laying of massive boards is carried out in a building with load-bearing wooden structures, they can be used to attach the base to them for the future floor.

Before fixing the base under the floor, the existing logs must be leveled so that their maximum deviation from the plane does not exceed 2 mm by 2 m, otherwise the massive board will begin to creak over time. Using a spirit level, remove excess wood with a planer or place wood chips in the right places.

As a base for a solid board, 12 mm plywood, 18 mm OSB boards or 20 mm plank flooring can be used. Plywood and OSB boards are laid on top of the moisture-proof film in the direction of the future solid board floor so that the edges of the boards are joined on the logs, and not between them. The gap between the sheets should be at least 2 mm, between the sheets and the wall - at least 10 mm, but not more than 15 mm, so that the opening can be closed with a plinth. Plywood and OSB boards are fastened by means of screws, of which there should be at least 9 pieces per sheet. In this case, the heads of the screws must be sunk 3-4 mm into the material for possible subsidence of the plywood.

When used as a boarding base, the sub-floor details are laid diagonally to the future solid board floor.

3. Installation on finished wooden floor

A strong and high-quality wooden floor in the room must be sanded with a belt sander equipped with an abrasive belt of 40 or 60 grit. After that, the surface of the wooden floor should be cleaned of dust and fine debris. It is recommended to lay a solid board on top of a wooden floor in a diagonal or transverse direction.

Application of two-component polyurethane adhesives

The best adhesives for solid boards are two-component polyurethane adhesives, which are used by all installers. There are many similar adhesives on the market, there are several fundamental differences:

• Working time until glue thickens. The optimal time now indicated by the manufacturers of modern adhesives is 2.5, sometimes 3 hours. It is important to remember that this time is calculated for ideal conditions of temperature, humidity, as well as for the ideal composition inside the can. From can to can, the parameters of the glue itself may also vary slightly. In reality, you need to count on an hour and a half of glue work.
• Glue base. Benzene adhesives have a strong odor, but they fade faster. Alkyd adhesives are most often odorless, but all harmful fumes take a little longer to finish. Remember that glue that has a smell is by no means less environmentally friendly than one that does not smell - this is a common misconception. If the moment of smell is important for the installer, we recommend Tover Tovcol PU2C hypoallergenic adhesive.
• Strength and elasticity of the adhesive. These parameters are important for installation, however, the buyer will never know from the available product cards which glue is stronger. Trust the opinion of professional craftsmen or equally professional sellers.

Adhesives also have additional properties. For example, adhesives based on water or solvents shrink the parquet floor and transfer excess moisture to the solid board. Most adhesives, when they come into contact with the varnished surface of the parquet, leave stains, some compounds can be removed before hardening with a cloth without leaving a trace (for example, ADESIV Pelpren PL6).

All 2K adhesives require a wide-notched trowel - don't forget to buy. Only such spatulas create the correct glue line.

So, before the installation itself, you need to thoroughly mix the two components of the glue with an electric mixer (an electric mixer allows you to do this efficiently and quickly, without reducing the working time of the glue). Then you can pour out some of the glue from the can and spread it with a spatula. Sometimes you can see how the glue is not spread on the base, but on each plank before gluing. Spreading the composition on the planks creates an insufficient adhesive layer, especially in the gaps between the planks, therefore this method is incorrect from the point of view of the adhesive manufacturers.

Correct glue line and correct use of the trowel.
Pay attention to how the trowel flexes when pressed against the base.

The spatula must be held strictly vertically and pressed a little into the floor - this is how the correct glue seam is created - glue grooves, from below there is only a thin film or a completely dry base.

Fastening solid wood boards to the base and to each other

To fasten the massive board to the base, self-tapping screws are used, the distance between which should be at least 20-30 cm. Before that, from the side of the ridge, the massive board should be drilled at an angle of 45 degrees. There is no fundamental difference between which side of the planks to drill from, but theoretically it is more correct to drill into a tenon. Specialized SPAX solid wood screws are the most popular for this purpose and without any immediate competitors. It is especially important to use specialized wood screws for high density exotic woods (however, pre-drilling is required for exotic dense woods).

Pulling the slats of the solid board to each other when screwing in with self-tapping screws.

It is very important to tightly attract the planks to each other when twisting and leave the necessary gap between the boards and walls (for most medium-sized rooms, exactly 1 cm). To pull the planks together, carefully use a chisel or wedges if you have to press the spike. Or, more often than not, they knock the planks with a hammer through the block.

Professional parquet brigades often use a pneumatic gun with staples instead of self-tapping screws, which allows laying parquet much faster. This method is correct, however, it requires an initial investment in the purchase of a gun, a compressor and a stock of special brackets.

Too small a gap between the walls and the parquet when the wood expands does not allow the internal stress of the material to escape, which is fraught with cracking or swelling of the boards. Too large a gap will be difficult to cover with conventional skirting boards.

The first row of a solid board is always laid with a groove to the wall. The fastening of the first and last rows with self-tapping screws is carried out through the front surface of the massive board. Subsequently, the attachment points are hidden under the skirting board.

Rules for grinding solid boards and applying a protective coating on it

For processing laid solid boards without factory coating, it is recommended to use disk and belt parquet grinders. For work along walls and in corners, it is recommended to use special angle and small hand sanders.

It is important to understand that for a solid board, a light sanding is ideal, removing only the varnish coating. Scraping will remove the chamfer, therefore, with seasonal tapering of the wood, gaps will be visible on the floor surface.

At the end of sanding (if the solid board is uncoated), the surface of the solid board should be thoroughly cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner or brush. The application of varnish or oil should be started on the same day. After drying, each layer is recommended to be sanded with a disc machine. It is recommended to apply 3 to 7 coats of varnish, which can take about 7 days. If you use a semi-gloss or glossy varnish, then in addition to strength, this affects the "specularity" of the board. After sanding, the oil should be applied in 2-4 layers. Hard wax oil does not need maintenance if there is no visible deterioration in appearance. Traditional oil needs to be renewed every 1-2 years.

The final touch is the installation of the skirting board, which is carried out according to the recommendations of a particular skirting board manufacturer. After that, the laying of solid wood floors can be considered complete.

Solid wood flooring is considered the most expensive, durable, environmentally friendly and durable flooring option. But in order for the floor to serve as long as possible while maintaining all the technical and operational characteristics, the laying of the solid board must be carried out in compliance with the technology. There are several mounting options depending on the type of base on which the array is being laid. We will show you how to lay a solid board. In addition, you need to know which screws to use as fasteners. We will also describe several layout schemes that will help create a beautiful pattern of wooden flooring in an apartment.

Laying solid boards on a screed

Laying a massive board on a screed without plywood is carried out on an equal concrete base. To fix the dies on the base, a special glue is used. It is better to glue the boards with an adhesive that is resistant to temperature extremes. This adhesive is suitable for heated floors.

Laying is done after preparing the base:

• the permissible moisture content of the base is no more than 6 percent (to check, use a moisture meter or use a piece of plastic film, it is glued with tape and checked for condensation through knocks, it should not be);
• all irregularities are eliminated (knocked down or putty), the permissible height difference is no more than 2 mm for every two meters;
• the screed is primed in several layers;
• the boards are laid after the primer layer has dried.

Important! Immediately after the purchase, the array is allowed to soak in the room where the installation will be carried out for about a week. During this time, the product adapts to the humidity and temperature of the room.

When laying a massive board on a screed, the elements begin to glue in rows only after the dies in one row are laid out on a dry basis and adjusted to size. If the laying is done independently, then a wide, even trowel is used to apply glue, and products with teeth are used to level it. The installation principle is similar to the installation of engineering and parquet flooring.

Laying solid boards on plywood

In our climate, the technology of laying solid boards on a plywood base is more often used. This method involves the arrangement of additional waterproofing. Laying on plywood is done in the same way as described above, that is, with gluing the boards with glue. However, it is equally important to properly prepare the base:

1. For the base, plywood 50 by 50 cm or 50 by 70 cm is suitable (this way, the surface tension of the material will not accumulate in the sheet). The optimum thickness is at least 12 mm.
2. Sheets are stacked with a joint offset in each subsequent row. A gap of 3 mm is left between the elements, and 15 mm are retreated from the walls in order to exclude deformation of the floor when the temperature and humidity in the room change.
3. For gluing plywood, polyurethane glue or mastic is used, which is applied in a thin layer over the length of the entire row.
4. After fixing to the glue, the sheets are additionally screwed to the base with self-tapping screws. Often, craftsmen have a question about what screws to fasten plywood to a wooden floor. It is impractical to use expensive Spax screws for these needs. Nails or ordinary screws with dowels will do. For each square, 9 fasteners are taken.
5. The moisture content of the plywood base should be no more than 10%.
6. After that, the floor is sanded to get rid of minor irregularities, and the places where the fasteners are installed are putty.
7. Then proceed to the laying of the array. The massive board is laid on glue. The dies are fixed on a two-component adhesive, and after each 30 cm they are additionally fastened with nails or self-tapping screws to the floor. Self-tapping screws for a solid Spax board are ideal for these purposes.
8. Then the surface is cleaned and sanded.

Mounting the board on the logs

Laying massive parquet on the joists is carried out during the reconstruction of the premises or, if it is necessary to level the uneven base without dismantling the old base. Laying on logs is also done when arranging podiums, stages and height differences in residential and commercial premises.

Installation takes place in the following sequence:

1. Before arranging the lag, the old floor is additionally insulated with polyethylene or penofol.
2. Two logs are laid out along the opposite walls of the room and the cords are pulled between them with a step of one and a half meters.
3. All subsequent elements are mounted along the stretched threads.
4. For better sound and heat insulation, the space between the beams is filled with insulation.
5. After that, the base from the lags is sewn up with fiberboard sheets.
6. Next, the array is laid in the same way as in the case of installation on a plywood base.

Types of fasteners for solid boards

A construction stapler is often used to fix the array to a wooden base. The staples are driven into the lower protruding part of the groove. Usually fasteners are used for 12-16 mm. The staples are driven in along the entire length of the board in 100 mm increments. In this case, first, the brackets are attached to the edges of the board, check its evenness and install the rest of the fasteners.

Important! The staples should not rise above the groove surface by more than 1 mm. Otherwise, they are finished off with a narrow-blade screwdriver. The hammer blows on the screwdriver should be light so as not to split the groove.

It is best to use Spax self-tapping screws for solid boards. After installing the die, it is pressed down with a load to protect it from displacement. At an angle to the floor (30-40 degrees) drill a hole in the groove of the board and the base. Install the self-tapping screw into the seat. To fix each board, three self-tapping screws are used: one in the central part and two with an indent from the edge by 20 cm.

Attention! Use a drill with a diameter of 2 mm. Drill the hole to a depth of 3 cm. In order not to drill too much, make a mark on the drill with insulating tape.

Floating board laying

The floating method of laying implies that the array will not be rigidly connected to the base, that is, the topcoat will seem to "float" on the base. This installation method is suitable for underfloor heating because the surface will be able to withstand sudden changes in temperature without deformation.

Usually laying is done on a special substrate. The boards are fastened together with a lock connection, but are not fixed in addition to the rough base. For a strong connection of the elements together, special brackets are used. The advantages of such styling include the following:

• quick and easy installation;
• fixing the elements with each other with the help of special brackets increases the resistance of the floor to mechanical stress;
• the method is environmentally friendly, since no glue, primers, etc. are used;
• the possibility of local repair;
• deformations are excluded.

Layout options

There are several options for arranging the array:

1. Traditional loosening. In this case, the displacement of the seam in each subsequent row is at least 25 cm. This method allows you to emphasize the natural beauty and naturalness of the coating.
2. Laying option - brickwork. The end joint of the elements in each subsequent row falls in the middle of the element in the previous row.
3. Diagonal styling allows you to emphasize the geometry of the room, hide its flaws and visually expand the boundaries of space. The displacement of the seam can be chaotic (staggering) or according to the principle of brickwork.
4. Triple brickwork. With this variant of the layout, the end seams of the elements in three adjacent rows coincide, and in the next three they are shifted by half of the element.
5. Herringbone styling made of elements of short length. In this case, the solid wood floor is very similar to parquet or parquet board.
6. Since you can find decorative elements for solid wood products on sale, let's say herringbone styling with inserts. Usually, contrasting inserts of a square configuration are used.
7. Option braid with inserts also resembles a parquet floor. Usually they adhere to a diagonal layout, making a square configuration element from several parallel-laid floorboards. The same elements are placed around it from the floorboards laid in the opposite direction. Small discrepancy in size is compensated by inserts.
8. Brickwork with inserts looks more impressive than traditional brickwork. The contrasting color elements create an interesting pattern on the floor. Option with diagonal installation is possible.
9. Laying in squares implies the formation of elements of a square configuration from several parallel-laid dies. In the next square, the direction of the dice is changed. The pattern resembles a braid without inserts.
10. Deck laying suitable for small rooms. In this case, one long and one short board is laid in one row. In the next row, they change places.
11. Cross styling implies laying the dies parallel to each other in one row. The next row is several boards, laid in the traditional way in one row in the opposite direction to the previous one.

The floor covering is installed at the final stage of the renovation. At least two months before the start of installation, all internal work that causes an increase in humidity in the room must be completed. At the time of installation, the relative humidity should be 40 - 60% at a temperature of 18 - 24 ° C.

Laying a solid board on a screed without plywood, a plank floor or chipboard in a floating way is suitable for small rooms, the main thing is that the base is even, strong and dry. It should also be borne in mind that heavy furniture can deform the floor.

The advantages of this styling:

• high speed of installation;
• the cost of laying a solid board (no need to buy glue and other components);
• ease of installation - installation can be carried out by one person;
• lack of rigid attachment to the base, which allows the floor to move freely during thermal compression or expansion of wood.

For self-installation, the following tools are required:

Before laying a solid board, it is necessary to assess the condition of the screed.

IMPORTANT: natural flooring requires an absolutely flat, clean surface. All internal work should be completed before installing the board.

The basis is required check for moisture. For this, there is a device that measures its performance in percent. To ignore the measurement at the first stage means to get soon:

- fungus (it can easily start in a humid environment);

- warpage (under the influence of moisture, the floor can swell and deform).

The best solution is to invite a specialist. The moisture meter should show - no more than 2%. There was an opinion that it is possible to do without the device. It is necessary to leave a piece of polyethylene pressed against the screed overnight. In the morning, inspect the place under it and if perspiration appears, then the humidity is increased. German scientists, after conducting such a study, found out: in the place where perspiration did not come out - the moisture meter showed 6%.

Test of strength will give a guarantee for the long-term use of the coating. You can conduct the research yourself:

• Walk along it. It crumbles underfoot, sand is felt - the worst option. Such a screed should be redone.
• Inspect carefully. Visible chips and depressions must be putty.
• With visual perfection, it is worth walking on the screed with a sharp object. There will be no damage on a perfect surface.

For laying a wooden floor, the following base indicators will be excellent: for compression - 25 MPa, for shear - 7 MPa. The exact indicators will be recorded by a device - Schmidt's hammer, which calculates a shock impulse under an applied load (another name is a sclerometer).

Additionally, a two-component epoxy primer will help to strengthen the base.

In addition to strength and moisture, it is worth paying attention to how smooth the base is. The permissible height difference is 2 mm per 2 running meters. An upward deviation from the norm will change the geometry of the floor. A two-meter rail or a building rule (which will be at hand) will help to check the evenness of the base. They need to be carried along the base and check the tightness of the strip to the floor. Revealed grooves should be putty, and protrusions should be sanded.

ATTENTION. After completing the preparatory work, debris, sand, dust should be removed. Thoroughly vacuum and prime the surface. At the exit, the screed must be level and clean before laying.

Substrate

The next stage of work is the laying of the substrate. It compensates for minor flaws, protects against moisture penetration and creates additional sound insulation. For "floating laying" the following types of substrates are used:

• made of foamed polyethylene;
• cork;
• rubber;
• fabric.

Temperature and humidity gaps

A floor made of natural wood, laid in a floating way, reacts much more to temperature and humidity indicators than. It is important to leave gaps around the perimeter of the room, taking into account all the elements that come into contact with the board (heating pipes, doors). When expanding, the board will have a place to "move". If they are absent, the floor covering will swell. The gaps are 10 - 15 mm per meter. With a width of 3 meters, 3 * 10 = 3 cm should be left. For ease of installation and prevention of displacement, wedges are used. They are placed over the entire adjoining area. After that, all the gaps will hide under the decorative skirting board.

Screed mounting

Before installing the floor, it is necessary that the material lie in the room for 2 - 3 days. It is undesirable to open the package. A sharp fluctuation in temperature will cause a change in the massif. First of all, you need to cull. Do not stack boards damaged during transportation. They must be returned or replaced before starting the installation of the solid board.

Spread - from the far left corner deck or diagonal way, perpendicular to the window. This technique is important technologically and aesthetically.

REFERENCE. Butt seams must be offset at a specific pitch to reinforce the joints. For an array, the gap should be at least 40 cm.

The first board is placed with a comb against the wall. The following boards are inserted into the groove and tapped with a hammer. The blows should not be strong, only knock on the bar. After three rows have been laid, spacer wedges are placed between the wall and the edge of the parquet field. Having planted the board in the center, move smoothly, tapping, to the edges. Additionally, the dies are attached one to one with glue.

Completion of work

The last row to be laid after measuring the distance to the wall. Since the walls always have a certain curvature, the values ​​will differ. Each board should be trimmed separately with a longitudinal cut to the required size at the installation site (remember about expansion gaps). For the convenience of working near the wall, where there is always little space, you need to use a mounting foot. It will help to firmly press one board against another.

We remove the spacer wedges and. His should be fixed directly to the wall. Then it will not interfere with the free movement of the floor when narrowing or expanding.

On plywood

Necessary materials:

• grinder (or circle);
• electric jigsaw;
• construction vacuum cleaner;
• primer;
• glue for solid boards;
• plywood - 10 mm;
• spatulas (including those with teeth);
• roulette;
• pencil;
• square;
• coating (varnish, wax).

Plywood is a good base for natural boards. It is attached to a screed, logs, wooden floor. If the concrete base is in poor condition, it must be re-poured for evenness. Allowing time for shrinkage and drying of the self-leveling screed, carefully grind it. All the smallest irregularities should be eliminated. Remove dust with a construction vacuum cleaner. Cover the entire surface with an epoxy primer. Pause to dry completely.

Cut plywood sheets into rectangular pieces to cover the entire surface. Before laying, for a firm adhesion of the sheets, glue is applied to the screed... Then the plywood is attached to the cement base with dowels.

Particular attention should be paid to the corners. It is also recommended to leave temperature gaps here: 1.5 cm around the perimeter, 2-3 mm between the rectangles themselves.

Grind the surface, remove dust and you can start laying the array on plywood. Before laying a massive board, plywood is coated with two-component glue to the width of one board.

Glue

Suitable for universal glue consisting of polyurethane mixtures and hardener. We recommend choosing a glue without odor, water and solvent. Which does not cause allergic reactions when it comes into contact with human skin, dries quickly and holds natural wood coatings firmly. German manufacturers adhere to such a high bar.

• During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the ridge enters the groove by gently tapping the board along its entire length. To increase the strength, each board is fixed with self-tapping screws every 25 - 30 cm. After the installation is completed, clean the entire floor surface.
• First, the array should be well driven into the groove, and only then it should be nailed.
• It is really cheaper to buy a high-quality floor. It is necessary to take an unprocessed board from a hardware store, carefully grind it, clean it from dust and apply varnish. With self-processing, you can save 25% of the cost of the same material with the coating already applied, or you can buy it.
• For temperature gaps, it is better to insert two dies on one board.

CAREFULLY. When installing with glue, you need to be extremely careful. Putting in a lot of glue can ruin the floor - it will come out from above when the dice are tapped with a hammer. At first, small spots on the surface are invisible. Daylight will "reveal" them. It is difficult to remove dried blotches. A special cleaner will be required. It should be used during work.

• After the installation is completed, the solid wood floor should, as well as withstand, in complete tranquility for 24 hours.
• To extend the period of use, it is recommended to observe the temperature and humidity conditions during the operation of the room.
• Use special care products for cleaning.
• Do not flood the floor with water.
• Place a spring mat under the computer chair.
• Pets (cats, dogs) running on the floor can quickly render it unusable. A durable, enhanced coating will protect the surface. True, the price of such products is high.

Useful video

How to lay a solid board

In contact with