Is it difficult to lay the laminate yourself? What to lay the laminate on and what the choice of material depends on. The cost of repair work

How to lay laminate flooring correctly is of interest to many. There are many ways of laying, since each brand of laminated panels has its own characteristics and is intended for installation in certain conditions. For example, some boards are suitable for laying on a warm floor, while others are not, so the process will be different.

Laying laminate flooring with your own hands will not present difficulties

Each manufacturer in the price list stipulates the installation procedure and gives recommendations for the installation of their products. You just need to follow the memo, and then laying the laminate with your own hands will not present difficulties, and a correctly assembled floor will last for many years.

Transport and storage of laminate flooring

Although the laminate of reliable manufacturers is made on the basis of high-precision technologies with indispensable quality control at every stage, nevertheless, damage to the panels cannot be completely ruled out.

Laminate is manufactured on the basis of high-precision technologies with indispensable quality control at every stage

This can happen due to improper transportation of the floor covering and violation of storage conditions.

Hence the conclusion:

• it is necessary to transport the laminate only in factory packaging, having checked their integrity before loading;
• do not throw packages on the floor, therefore, minimize the load on the arms and back when carrying them and avoid sharp turns;
• you need to remove all obstacles from the path in advance;
• the laminate should be stored in the same temperature regime in which it will be laid;
• it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight, this is especially true in the presence of panoramic windows;
• Before starting installation, the panels should be unpacked, evenly laid out in the room at a distance of at least half a meter from the walls and left for 48 hours to acclimatize.

Required materials, tools and aids

To properly lay the laminate floor in the apartment, you will need:

• folding rule, level, pencil, ruler, corner and spacers;
• a timber for tamping laminate and a rubber hammer;

Tools required for laying laminate flooring

• fine-toothed hacksaw and knife, which can be replaced with a jigsaw or a circular saw with a fine-toothed blade;
• skirting board of a suitable design;
• polyethylene film, if laminate is laid on a concrete floor;
• sound-absorbing underlay for laminate;
• mounting clamp and spacer wedges.

What you need to know when laying your own laminate flooring

To understand how to properly lay the laminate with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's requirements set out in the package insert and watch training videos.

Compliance with the instructions is a prerequisite, and in case of damage to the panels with a broken technology, the guarantee for a free replacement of the material is not valid.

Layout of laminate laying technology

Key points:

• initially check the quality of laminated boards and carry out acclimatization;
• use the flooring strictly in the specified premises;
• carefully prepare the base for the laminate, which must be dry, even, clean and smooth;
• lay a sound-proof material on the base, and when laying on concrete, first cover it with a film, forming a waterproofing barrier;
• lay the underlay on top of the insulating layer;

• choose the correct location of the panels in relation to the light and walls - along or across. In large rooms that are not cluttered with furniture, the laminate is laid along the main light source, which will help hide the seams and achieve a natural palette of colors, and in order to visually expand the space, the covering is mounted across the walls;
• the panels are laid most often using the brickwork method, which reduces the load on them during operation;
• so that the laminated boards do not swell, you need to leave a gap of 5-10 mm between the edge of the covering, walls and doorways;
• after laying, it is necessary to check the tightness of the joints, and during the installation process use high-quality and suitable sealants.

Of considerable importance for the trouble-free and durable operation of the laminate floor is the correct choice of the base, which is necessarily indicated by the manufacturers in the recommendations.

For example, it can be a concrete screed over a warm floor, old wooden flooring, asphalt, tiles, linoleum, chipboard. Carpets, PVC foam flooring, and similar materials are not suitable for laminate backing and must therefore be removed. Otherwise:

• when walking, the seams may come apart;
• moisture accumulated under them will lead to the formation of mold and mildew on the inner surface of the laminate and its destruction.

Before laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor or other base, it is necessary to prepare for the work process.

Diagonal styling visually expands the space

The preparatory stage consists of:

• in sorting panels by texture, shade and decorative pattern;

• in the measurement of the room in order to calculate the number of panels and determine whether the first row needs to be narrowed in width in the case of curvature of the walls.

Important! Remember: to achieve the best result in terms of color perception, lay laminated boards in a mix from different packages.

Work order:

1. The base is cleaned of debris and leveled. The better the base is prepared, the easier it will be to install the panels and the more durable the laminate floor will be.
2. Waterproofing is laid in the form of a PE film with an overlap of 15 cm canvases and gluing the joints with tape. It is recommended to run the film on the wall a little and then close it with a plinth.
3. A substrate is laid on top of the insulation, which will hide small irregularities and make the base smooth. In contrast to a waterproofing film, the underlay should be laid jointly to joint, fixing the seams with tape.
4. Start laying from the left corner of the room. Assemble the laminate with a lock on itself, which will facilitate the snapping of the panels. Having laid the first board, fix the distance from the edge of the panels to the walls around the entire perimeter with spacers or spacers.
5. Lay the second board by inserting it at an angle of ≈ 45º into the lock of the previous one and lowering it smoothly.
6. The longitudinal edges must form a straight line in order to fit the second row of panels into the longitudinal profile without seams.
7. They reach the end of the first row, and then, in case of uneven walls, the last board is turned 180º and cut, keeping a 5-10 mm distance from the wall, depending on the length of the panels.
8. Laying the second and subsequent rows begins with a cut off piece of the last panel of the previous row, if its length is at least 40 and not more than 90 cm. This will reduce material consumption and ensure staggered seams.
9. The board of the second row is lifted with the long side at an angle of ≈ 45º, applied to the board of the first row, inserted into the groove, knocking the bar against the board with a hammer, and snapped into place. The connection must be tight.
10. Continue laying the rows until the entire space is covered, and the spacers are removed. The last panel is mounted with a clamp.
11. For pipes encountered on the way, grooves are made 10–20 mm larger than the diameter of the pipes, the part is cut out for fitting, glue is applied to it, inserted and fixed until completely dry, and then the grooves are lined with cuffs for heating elements.
12. Nail the plinth and equip the sills.

There are some nuances when laying laminated boards diagonally. This technique is more complicated, but it brings a peculiar flavor to the interior and emphasizes the individuality of the situation.

In order to achieve the best result in terms of color perception, lay laminated boards in a mixture of different packages.

In addition, diagonal styling visually expands the space, which is very valuable for small apartments.

The specifics of diagonal styling

It is not difficult to create an unusual original laminate flooring, you just need to know how to correctly lay the laminate diagonally and what are the features of diagonal laying in comparison with classical technology. The necessary tools and preparation process are no different from the usual installation.

The conditions are the same - a clean and as even surface as possible, for which it is recommended to use special self-leveling mixtures. They are applied to the floor cleared of debris and leveled with a spatula.

Important: after leveling, the height difference of the base should not exceed 2 mm per square meter.

Following the preparatory stage, the diagonal installation of the laminate floor begins:

1. Select the direction of laying the boards. The optimal angle is ≈ 35-45º.

2. Calculate the amount of laminate. Here lies the first feature, since the diagonal calculation has the formula - to the area of ​​the room you need to add the product of the width of the room x 1.42 x the width of one board. For example: the length of the room is 5 m, the width is 3 m, the length of the selected laminated board is 1 m, and its width is 0.1 m. Then:

• room area 5 x 3 = 15 m²;
• area of ​​spare material 3 x 1.42 x 0.1 = 0.436 m²;

• substitute values ​​in the formula 15 + 0.436 = 15.436 m²;
• divide the result by the area of ​​one board (0.1 x 1 = 0.1) and get the number of laminated boards, i.e. 15.436 / 0.1 = 154.36 ≈ 155 pieces + 10% stock ≈ 170 panels are required for the diagonal decking.

3. Pull the rope diagonally to control the pitch and avoid any deviations.

4. After the leveling mixture has solidified, the surface is covered with cellophane, on top of which a substrate or cork sheets are laid with gluing the joints with adhesive tape.

5. To simplify the installation process, experts advise starting diagonal installation from the center of the room, since working with long panels is much more convenient than with small triangles.

6. After laying several rows, check that the angle of inclination is evenly maintained, and click the boards using a rubber mallet for adjustment.

7. Spacers fix the gaps between the coating and the walls.

8. Fit the pipe passages, if any, by sealing them with a suitable shade of silicone sealant.

9. Remove the spacers and mount the plinth, preferably with ready-made internal channels for pulling the cables.

The main differences between diagonal styling:

• the first panel of each new row is selected separately, and the segments of the last board of the previous row are not used, as with the typical technique;
• to cut the last panel in a row, proceed as follows: measure the distance to the wall, taking into account the expansion joint on one side and lay a point on the board, then measure the distance on the opposite side and mark a new point, then connect the points and cut them along the marked line with an electric jigsaw with the wrong side parties;

• the end sides of the panels are connected according to the usual scheme, and the long sides in the following order: slightly raise the opposite edge of the board, insert a block into the lock and click on the floor to click. The panel is wiggled slightly to seal the joint.

Remember these features, adhere to the recommendations of experts, and the question of how to properly lay the laminate will disappear by itself. Videos that will solve all the problems will help to visualize the installation process, and the time spent on viewing will pay off in full with an elegant, beautifully laid laminate floor. Successful renovation.

If the final decision is made to cover the floors in an apartment or a separate room with laminate, first you should thoroughly familiarize yourself with the basic rules of the technological process of laying it. Firstly, this is necessary in order to accurately determine the the type of material that will need to be purchased. Secondly, learning how to lay laminate flooring is also necessary in order to realistically evaluate own strength. The process itself, although it requires increased care and accuracy, still cannot be considered extremely difficult to carry out, and calling a team of construction finishers can be a waste of money. Why not try it yourself?

No matter how much I want to do everything as soon as possible, you should remember the "golden rule" - laying flooring, and laminate - in particular, never tolerate unnecessary haste. Everything will take place in a fairly short time anyway, but for the floor to really serve for a long time and not cause quick disappointments, it is simply impossible to do without thorough preliminary preparation for work.

For a start - a thorough preparation of the floor surface

A good owner will assess the condition of the floor in the room and bring it into a proper look for laying, probably even before going to the store to buy laminated boards. So, the first step is to revise the existing foundation.

The essential advantage of laminate flooring is that it can be installed on almost any subfloor. Of course, the "sub-floor" must meet a number of important requirements.

• He must leveled horizontally. Level differences are allowed within no more than 2 mm per 1 linear meter of the surface.
• The surface must be flat - even the slightest bumps or dimples are unacceptable. Such defects disrupt the integrity of the laminated coating or will subsequently respond with unpleasant squeaks.
• The floor must be solid - no dynamic loads should cause the surface to “play”.

1. If the laminate is planned to be laid on a concrete base, then it must be carefully repaired. Wide cracks, potholes, and even more so - areas of crumbling or delamination of the surface are unacceptable. If the damage is too extensive, then, probably, it will be necessary to put aside the laminate for the time being and start updating the screed - with ordinary concrete mortar or, which, apparently, is more convenient, with self-leveling pouring. It will be possible to return to the laminate flooring only after the floors have gained the required strength.

2. Flooring of laminate on old linoleum is allowed. At the same time, the coating must necessarily maintain its integrity and evenness - divergences of welded seams, linoleum rubbing to the base are unacceptable, all the more if there is still a violation of the concrete base in these places. The presence of protruding bumps or noticeable pits is not allowed. Sometimes you just have to remove the old linoleum and prepare the base for the laminate in the usual way, as described above.

3. Laminate on a tree can be laid if there are no rotting, creaking boards on the floor, if there are no areas of instability - deflection under the weight of the leg. Such fragments are subject to mandatory replacement with a simultaneous increase in lag. Stable areas are checked for cracks, dents, etc. - the in must be putty, and then leveled with the common surface with a grinder. Minor level differences between the boards can be removed with a plane.

Many issues will be solved much easier if you don’t spare the funds to cover the entire base of the floor with plywood, and even better - with OSB sheets with a thickness of about 10 ÷ 12 mm. In addition to the required evenness, this measure also gives additional thermal and soundproofing effects. A waterproofing layer made of dense polyethylene film must be laid under the sheets to be laid.

What is required for work

When the laminate is purchased and delivered to the place of laying work, it is advised to free it from plastic and cardboard packaging, place it in the room for which it is intended for several days. This will completely equalize both the moisture and temperature of the material, and as a result, the installation will be easier, and the likelihood of deformation of the laid coating will be eliminated.

While the panels are undergoing the "adaptation course", we do not waste time - we prepare the necessary tools and draw a plan for the upcoming work

• To cut the laminate board to the desired size, you will need a hacksaw with a fine tooth or an electric jigsaw. If there are vertical pipe risers in the room, then you can not do without a jigsaw at all.
• It is clear that the master must have a high-quality drafting-measuring tool - tape measure, ruler, metal square, marker, etc.
• A hammer is often required to join laminate seams. It is good if you have a rubber or wooden one at your disposal. You can use the usual one, but only with the laying of a special bar - they are in stores, but it will not be difficult to make it yourself. In this case, it will be more convenient to make a groove in the bar for the locking part of the laminate - it will not be possible to jam it with too strong a blow.

• Of particular difficulty are areas along walls or in other hard-to-reach places. To apply the required force to connect the panels, you will need ∫ -shaped lever. It can also be purchased at a hardware store, but it will probably be more profitable to make a one-time installation at home from a metal strip, taking into account the height of the lever, which is convenient for the master, protruding upward to transmit the impact force.

It is possible, if necessary, to use a conventional mount, but there is a possibility of damaging the wall at the same time - it is imperative that the place of the stop should be laid with a wide piece of wood.

• It is worth preparing in advance the required number of wooden wedges-spacers to fix the laminate at the required (10 ÷ 12 mm) distance from the walls of the room, to compensate for temperature or other expansions.

The entire floor surface must be covered with a backing. It is unacceptable to ignore this - the quality of the laid laminate floor will be low. The substrate is polymeric - made of foamed polyethylene, it can have a foil layer (laid out) or be without it. Most often, the substrate is produced in rolls, although a panel version can also be purchased. The most optimal though not cheap an option would be to use a cork backing.

The material is spread over the entire floor surface exclusively end-to-end, without leaving gaps or overlaps. The resulting seams can be fixed to the floor surface with double-sided tape or glued with adhesive tape on top.

Everything, the preparatory activities are almost over, it remains to think over the scheme of work in order to avoid typical mistakes.

We think over the installation scheme

In order for the laying work to go smoothly and quickly, a carefully thought out and graphically executed scheme should always be in front of the eyes of a home craftsman. What needs to be taken into account in order to avoid those mistakes that often lie in wait for beginners in this business:

• Laying direction. Longitudinal, long joints should be oriented along the direction of the rays of light from its natural source - the window. Otherwise, the joints can stand out strongly on the surface.

• Work is planned from the far, most often the left corner. Laying is carried out orderly. The panel of the first row parallel to the wall is laid with a groove outward, and the spike is cut off in advance so that an even end remains.
• If a hand saw or a jigsaw is enough for a cross cut, then for longitudinal cuts it is better to use a manual or stationary circular - this will be smoother and faster.
• Each subsequent row should be offset (by half the length of the panels, or "along the deck", by 300 ÷ 400 mm).
• When planning, it must be taken into account that the finish row of laminate panels should not be narrower than 100 mm. If it turns out less, it is worth narrowing the first row a little. Laying is thought out in the same way if there are internal corners in the room.
• Particular attention is paid to the places where the vertical risers pass. If they cannot be temporarily dismantled, then it is worthwhile to think over the scheme in such a way that they fall on the joint of the panels - then cutting a figured hole and installing the coating will not be a problem.
• Laminate, although not too thick, can sometimes become an obstacle to door movement. It makes sense to immediately evaluate this and, if necessary, shorten the door tight.

Now, only when everything is ready, you can go directly to the installation.

Features of stacking laminated panels of different types

Laminated panels of different models are by no means the same in terms of their pairing with each other. So, there is an option when the required solidity of the surface is ensured by gluing the joints. Panels with locks can also differ - there are two main types of them - "Loсk" or "Cliсk". You can find more complex, for example, 5G options, but they are more or less a modification of "Cliсk" type locks.

Installation of a laminated floor with Cliсk locks

The peculiarity of such a locking connection is that it is made only at a certain angle to the honey by the mating panels, the specific value of which may differ significantly for different models. But the essence does not change from this - the mounted panel at the required angle is inserted with a thorn into the groove of the already laid one. Then, when you turn it into a single plane, the grooves of the lock snap into place with a characteristic sound, providing a very reliable connection. At the same time, it will not be difficult to dismantle the panel either - when it is raised to the same angle, it will release their engagement.

Schematic diagram of the "Click" lock

• Installation is carried out from the first row. The entire strip is assembled completely, laid along the wall and wedged from it both along the long and on the end side.

Installation of the panel with the "Click" lock

• The next row is also assembled completely at first - this is the main feature of installation with such a lock. Of course, the displacement of the panels is taken into account - this was already mentioned above. Only after the complete assembly of the entire strip of the next row is it connected to the previous one. It can be very difficult to do this on your own, so it is better to work together.

Each row after laying is wedged from the walls.

• All subsequent rows of the laminate are laid in the same order, to the end of the room.
• Before each assembly of the locking part, the cleanliness of its grooves must be checked - even the smallest fragments of debris or sawdust are not allowed in it.

A high-quality laminate with locks does not need to adjust the joints using impact forces - the joints themselves are durable and almost invisible. This advantage determines its greatest popularity among all other types of laminated panels.

How panels with locks are laid

It seems that such a fastening system is rapidly losing popularity and is gradually being replaced by more modern models. However, such a laminate is relatively inexpensive and therefore still in demand.

This is how the "Lock" system works

In this case, the pins and grooves of the lock joint are located in the same horizontal plane and have peculiar protrusions and grooves for fixing when a certain force is applied. In terms of strength, such joints are significantly inferior to the Cliсk laminate. At the same time, it is rather difficult to dismantle the panel, if necessary - very often the spike is deformed or even breaks off.

• The panels of the first row are connected to each other on the end side by tapping with a hammer through a wooden or rubber gasket. Wedging is made from the walls of the room.

• Installation of the next row begins with the first panel from the wall. Its spike is inserted into the groove of the laid row, by tapping, a complete connection is ensured (usually accompanied by a characteristic sound and is well defined visually). The panel immediately wedges away from the wall surface.

• The next panel will require a consistent application of impact forces from both sides, for a lock on both the end and the long side.

Here you need the mentioned lever with which you can tap the panel or you can apply force using a pry bar.

• Laying continues in this order in order (some masters prefer a “step pattern, but the essence does not change).
• Laying the final row, after careful measurement and cutting to the required size, is also done using a lever.

During work, the force of the impact should be controlled so that the lock also works and so as not to accidentally damage the grooves or spikes of the connection in the places of application of forces.

Features of installing laminate on glue

Laminate, designed for laying with spillage of joints, has good indicators of strength, solidity, water resistance of the resulting surface. Cons - the work is quite laborious, and it will not work at all to dismantle the panels while maintaining their integrity. Installation will require glue specially designed for these purposes, and professionals strongly do not recommend simplifying your task by purchasing ordinary PVA.

Such panels also have spikes and grooves, but their purpose is only to align the laminate in one plane, and the locking part as such no.

• The stacking system itself in many respects repeats the described technology with “Lok” locks - both the sequence and tapping of the joints are the same. The main feature is that the grooves are coated with glue before assembly in the amount determined by the manufacturer of the material.
• Protruding to the surface laminate after joining the panels, excess glue removed immediately with a clean, soft, damp cloth.
• When the first 3 rows are laid, a technological break is required for 2 ÷ 3 hours - this time is necessary for the glue for its polymerization to occur. Further, the work continues in the same way, observing the alternation of styling and pauses.

Completion of work

After laying the last row (in the case of an adhesive laminate, after 3 hours), the spacer wedges can be removed around the perimeter of the room. Now it remains to attach the skirting boards (only to the wall, by no means to the laminated surface), and close the junction of the laminated panels to other floor coverings with special decorative overlays.

Video: master class on laying laminate flooring

Laminate is high quality floor covering that has an extremely beautiful and stylish appearance, as well as unique characteristics.

Well, not everyone knows how to lay it on their own. If you decide put in your home or apartment laminate, then we will give you advice on how to do it correctly.

How to lay laminate flooring correctly (preparation)

So, if you have decided on the class and color of the laminate, then you can start. Let's start by counting how much laminate is required for laying a particular room.

By the way, the room should be with moderate humidity, and in no case should it be a bathroom, because the laminate is afraid of strong moisture, because of which it quickly becomes unusable.

Usually there are 10 boards in one pack of laminate. This the pack is designed for an area of ​​2 sq. m, but only if the laminated boards are laid parallel or perpendicular to the window.

If you want to lay the laminate at an angle relative to the window, then in this case it is necessary 15% stock, and with laying perpendicular to the window, make a margin of approximately 7% .

However, you should know that it is better to buy material with a stock in any case, since all measurements with subsequent cuts are unlikely to be done perfectly, especially if you are new to this business.

Laminate can be laid at any angle. But: if the floor is covered perpendicular to the window, then the seams will be less visible. This method is the most popular.

If parallel, then the seams will be "accentuated" by the drop shadow, and a wide room is rendered. Well and the laminate is correctly laid at an angle, will optically increase the area of ​​the entire room.

Before starting work, you must prepare the surface, on which we will lay the laminate. The main condition in this matter is flat floor. Basically, it doesn't matter what is on your floor now: an old wooden floor, laminate or just "bare" cement.

In order to find out if your floor is even, it is enough to take a building level and walk around the room, measuring the level of the slope. If the floor level in the room is acceptable, then you can safely lay the laminate.

For slight irregularities, you can use cement mortar. In the lowlands, you need to raise the level. Too high places should be removed. On an area of ​​2 sq. m level difference should not exceed 2 mm.

Well, if the level of the old floor requires drastic changes, then it is necessary to make a screed. The screed is ideal for leveling the floor... In addition to the screed, you can also lay out the floor plywood.

After purchasing the laminate, it is better to unpack and let it lie down for at least two days for adaptations in the room where he will creep.

Sometimes takes place difference in color shades on laminated boards. In this case, it is necessary to package the boards so that the differences after installation are as less noticeable as possible.

How to lay laminate

Before starting work, the floor should be clean and vacuum thoroughly, so that the debris does not fall into the locks of the laminate covering (it is the small debris that often becomes the cause of the squeak).

Recommended first layer cover with plastic wrap 200 µm thick. This flooring protects the laminate from water formations underneath. We lay the polyethylene so that an excess of about 20 cm remains, which can be cut off after all the work is completed. For convenience, we fasten the entire flooring with tape.

The next layer should be from EPPS(extruded polystyrene foam). Such a substrate serves for depreciation, and also as heat and sound insulator. It is necessary to lay this material end-to-end, to avoid thickening. We also fasten the joints with tape.

All layers: polyethylene, EPS and laminate flooring crosswise.

If we have plywood or wood instead of a concrete base, then there is no need to put anything under the laminate.

Now let's prepare required tools:

• Jigsaw
• Hammer
• Wooden plank
• Roulette
• Pencil.

How to lay laminate flooring

During masonry laminate flooring you will need to displace the end joints in order to get a brickwork like a brick. The joints need to be displaced at least by 30 cm, and if allowed by the manufacturer, then not less than 20 cm. Such laying helps to strengthen the entire future structure and does not allow the laminate to "walk".

You need to know in advance what size will be the last row of laminate, which will surely be sawn. This cut should not be less 5 cm. If the cut is less than 5 cm, then the first row will need to be reduced.

The best option would be if the first and last boards match in size.

How to lay laminate flooring with your own hands

You can start laying the laminate with any sides of the room.

You need to fasten the boards by snapping into their special lock, as shown in the figure. The main thing in this business is do not confuse from which side the laminate boards should enter the puzzles, because on one side the boards have hollow holes, and on the other - elongations, which should go into the holes.

Thus, we put the laminate over the entire area of ​​the room with our own hands. In order to make sure that the boards fit snugly, they hammer down by setting wooden plank hitting it.

To knock down the last board, a special bar is required (as shown in the picture and in the video below).

The plank should not be applied to the board lock, otherwise it could be broken. The wooden plank should be applied to the top end laminated boards. Around the edges of the entire room should be placed small supports thickness of about 1 cm, so that the laminate has a place to "stretch" due to temperature changes.

You can dock as single laminated boards and in advance stapled row, but in this case you will need a partner, because the stapled row of laminate may be too long.

Obstacles when laying laminate flooring

When laying laminate flooring You will come across obstacles such as pipes, door frames, transitions to another type of floor, etc. We provide some universal advice on how to get around the obstacles that have arisen so that you can choose the most suitable option for your floor.

More and more people are faced with the question of how to lay laminate flooring with their own hands. This is due to the ever-increasing popularity of beautiful shiny flooring that fits into any design of a residential or non-residential area.

Laminate is produced not only in different colors, but also in different qualities and designs. So, for example, there are several strength classes of laminated boards, each of which corresponds to a certain level of stress. The least durable and inexpensive laminate flooring is ideal for use in the bedroom. And for corridors, living rooms, kitchens, you should take a closer look at commercial options that can withstand a large operational load.

At the same time, the laminate is not laid in the bathroom at all due to the fear of moisture of the material. Despite the fact that the laminate is covered with a moisture-repellent layer, the joints are the weak point of this flooring. If spilled water remains on the surface of the boards for a long time and seeps into the anchorage points, this can lead to swelling and similar defects in the laminate.

If we consider the methods of installing laminate boards, then there are only two of them:

• lock-type connection (on each separate board on four sides there are locking grooves and spikes of the “lock” or “click” type, assembly is done with one click);
• adhesive connection (more resistant to moisture and, with appropriate processing, is suitable for the kitchen area, but installation is somewhat complicated).

Planks are usually laid perpendicular to the window, but it is possible to lay them diagonally (45 or 30 degrees) to visually increase the space. The latter option involves a greater consumption of material for arranging the flooring.

Consider how to calculate and find out the required amount of material.

In order not to spend money on extra packs of laminate or, on the contrary, not to run to the store in case of insufficient quantity, it is worth stocking up on a tape measure and a calculator.

It is necessary to measure the dimensions of the entire room where the installation is planned. It is necessary to take into account all the protrusions into the corridor, onto the balcony, etc. We find the area of ​​the room and each protrusion / niche / column by multiplying the found length, width, taking into account the complexity of the layout of the room.

Note! Expansion joints should be taken into account - 15 mm along each wall, where there will be no laminate.

Now we need to determine the area of ​​each laminate board. Most manufacturers produce laminate with dimensions 1.26 x 0.185 m or 1.38 x 0.195 m. Accordingly, the area will be 0.2331 or 0.2691 square meters.

It remains only to divide the area of ​​the room by the area of ​​the panels you have chosen and round the result up to a whole number. For example, for a room with an area of ​​10 m 2, 43 or 38 panels will be needed.

It remains only to find out how many laminate boards are in one package (usually 8 pieces) and divide the total number of panels required by the number of boards contained in one package. Therefore, 43/8 = 6 (round up so that there is a margin for trimming and scrap) or 38/8 = 5 packs.

Attention! Despite the seeming simplicity of laying the laminate, it is recommended to purchase additional packaging (with a large area of ​​the room - 2-3 packs) of the material. After all, without work experience, you can easily ruin the board by cutting it off on the wrong side or damaging the mount. And if you are planning diagonal styling, then it is recommended to increase the stock for pruning by 15-20%.

Have you got the material? Take your time to start styling! Let the laminate sit in a warm room for a day or two.

What do you need to work?

To install the laminate with your own hands, you should stock up on:

• jigsaw - it is not easy to cut the laminate by hand;
• wedges - to keep the expansion joint between the covering and the wall;
• a small block of wood;
• mallet;
• hook / clamp - needed when laying the end parts of the coating;
• tape measure and square;
• scotch tape;
• pencil;
• scissors.

Under the laminate, you will need a thermal and vapor barrier substrate, but in the case of laying the panels on linoleum, you can neglect the use of this layer.

A water-repellent vinyl sealant (such as Moment or Click Guard) is required to increase the bond strength of padlock panels or to install an adhesive laminate.

Preparing a rough flooring for a laminate

As all manufacturers declare, the material should be laid on a strictly horizontal floor surface without drops, potholes and other irregularities, each of which will negatively affect the durability of the laminate panels.

If you do not want the floor to separate, creak, play in the future, level the floor with a screed or self-leveling mixture. The wooden floor can not be disassembled, having covered all the joints of the boards with putty and processed with a grinder. Sufficiently even linoleum, carpeting and even tiles can also not be dismantled. Be sure to check the horizontal level with a building level.

How to Install Laminate at a 45 Degree Angle (Diagonal)

This installation scheme is rather complicated, but the room will look unusual and very attractive.

1. We lay the substrate

If the base of the floor is concrete, you can additionally prime it and dust it off. From other smooth rough surfaces, it is enough to remove furniture, sweep out debris and dirt. The area of ​​the roll or sheet substrate must correspond to the area of ​​the room. The flooring is made without overlap. Lay the sheet-type substrate like brickwork (with an offset). We fix the joints with tape.

1. We start styling

We will lay the first board in the far left corner of the room. Using a square with sides of 45 degrees, we mark and cut the ends of the first panel with a jigsaw. If necessary, cut holes for the radiator pipes. We put wedges tightly against the wall (size 10-15 mm). Place the first board in the corner.

The next row of laminate floorboards will consist of two planks. We mark and cut in such a way that the connection of two floorboards of the second row is in the center of the first laid board. We cut off the edges, which will be adjacent to the wall, respectively, at an angle of 45 degrees.

We connect the first and second rows:

• under the condition of the locking joint of the laminate of the "lock" type, each board is inserted separately, the joint is made with the adjacent board of the row and the top laid by a row of floorboards;
• the rows of laminate panels with "click" connections are mounted differently. First, the entire row of boards is connected by the ends and only after that it is inserted into the groove of the previous laid row of laminate.

Attention! It is necessary to observe the "run-up" of the order of 20-40 cm between the end seams of two adjacent rows of laminate.

Gradually move from the far left corner of the room towards the lower right. We insert triangular pieces of boards directly into the corners, using a simple device - a hook, tapping it with a mallet to make the connection tight.

Video - How to lay the laminate diagonally

How to install laminate flooring in the traditional way

This method is simpler and more economical than the diagonal laying method in terms of material consumption.

Prepare the surface and lay the substrate according to the instructions described above. Next, we open the first package and start laying.

Each laminate floorboard has tongue-and-groove ridges and grooves. The first row of floorboards will be located close to the wall (taking into account the expansion gap), therefore, it is necessary to unfold the panel so that the grooves face the wall and the ridges face the interior of the room.

We collect the first row. After the first board is placed in one of the corners of the room, we take the second panel from the package and connect the ends of adjacent floorboards, immediately aligning the boards in a straight line. Thus, we join the boards, moving along the wall to the opposite corner. The last board of the row will need to be cut. We make measurements with a ruler or tape measure, then we apply the markings on the outer floorboard and cut, not forgetting about the expansion gap of 10-15 mm.

We start the second row with a piece of board remaining after cutting, then build up the row with whole floorboards. When the second row is laid, you should take a wooden block, a mallet and carefully tap so that the lock connection snaps tightly.

To lay the last row, you will have to cut the boards longitudinally. Follow the rule of "measure seven times", not forgetting about possible unevenness of the walls and the need to leave a gap between the boards and the wall.

Video - DIY laminate flooring

In addition to the listed installation methods, there are also innovative herringbone laminate flooring methods and other methods similar to the parquet flooring technology. In addition, when installing, you can combine laminate in several shades, creating an exclusive flooring for your interior.

Laminate has gained immense popularity for its practicality, aesthetics and simplicity. Floor mounting technology with such a coating simple enough: by laying the underlayment and neatly laying the laminate tiles, the attractive parquet is ready. The question is, how to lay the laminate with your own hands is, rather, the problem of choosing a material, the assortment of which is huge, both in color and technical characteristics, and in quality.

Features of the choice of material

Laminate flooring constructively implies 2 main layers - a substrate and a laminate

Laminate flooring constructively implies 2 main layers - backing and laminate... The choice of material for these elements is determined by the type of room. Any living space is conditionally subdivided into several zones: a living room, a bedroom, a work area (kitchen, office), a relaxation area (bath, toilet, balcony) and a walk-through area (entrance hall, corridor).

Choice of laminate

Laminate is a multi-layer tile based on fiberboard with protective and decorative layers of paper and polymers; and the top layer is made of a polymer resin that provides protection against abrasion and mechanical stress. Material varies according to the following main parameters: the degree of resistance to abrasion and mechanical stress; thickness; temperature regime; moisture resistance; connection method when laying.

These characteristics are included in the product labeling and are fundamental when choosing a tile.

Choice of strength

Laminate classified by strength(abrasion, shock loads) into 6 main classes 21-23 and 31-33. Recently, material in category 21-23 has practically not been produced, and preference is given to classes 31-33.

The strength of the laminate grows with the increase in the number, but it should be borne in mind that its price is also growing.

The kitchen floor is exposed to significant loads, therefore, it is desirable to use a class 23 or 33 plate. In this area, cost savings can lead to rapid wear and damage to the coating. A similar approach should be used when choosing coverage for the corridor and hallway. The smallest loads can be assumed in the bedroom or closet - there is no point in buying laminate with a class higher than 21 or 31. In children's and living rooms, the planned loads must be taken into account, but, usually, a class 22 or 32 is enough (see also the article about laying linoleum).

Thickness selection

Laminate board is available in 6-8, 10 and 12 mm thick. An increase in the thickness of the coating increases its strength, heat-insulating and sound-insulating characteristics, but at the same time, the price of the material increases significantly. Advantageously thicker tiles should also include the simplification of their laying when installing the floor. Based on this alternative, it is recommended to use slabs of medium thickness - 7 and 8 mm in residential premises.

Connection method

The simplest are adhesive-bonded plates.

Standard laminate boards have 3 main ways to connect them when laying: adhesive, Click-lock and Lock-lock. The simplest are adhesive-bonded plates. They have the following advantages: they do not require perfect and cheapness. In addition, the adhesive ensures the tightness of the joints and eliminates the squeak effect when walking on the floor. The main disadvantages are that the structure is not separable, which excludes the repair of a separate section; an increase in the complexity of laying and the duration of work due to the drying period.

Locking joints are made directly at the ends of the slabs and do not require glue joints, which increases the laying performance. The Lock-lock system (thorn-groove) is simpler and somewhat cheaper than the second type, but the tiles at the junction can diverge under load, which causes gaps. The Click lock is a more complex connection (latch) and provides reliable fixation of the tiles to each other, but has the main disadvantage - it requires perfect preparation of the subfloor; and also such a tile is the most expensive.

What is the price of the issue?

Laminate is sold in a wide range and in the most varied colors for every taste. Some brands can be recommended: domestic manufacturers - Kronospan, Kronostar, Sinteros; foreign manufacturers - Classen (Germany), Praktik (China), QuickSter (Belgium), Kronotex (Germany), Alloc (Belgium), Egger, Meister (Germany), Pergo (Sweden), Maxwood (Germany). Prices mainly depend on the strength class and the thickness of the board. For example, the recommended 7 mm thick laminate of the Kronospan brand has the following cost: class 31 - 313-319 rubles / m², class 32 - 347 rubles / m², class 33 - 700 rubles / m². The change in the cost by the thickness of the tiles can be shown at average prices: 6-7 mm - 300-500 rubles / m² (depending on the strength class), 8 mm - 500-800 rubles / m², 9-10 mm - 800-1000 rubles / m², 12 mm - 1000-1500 rubles / m².

Substrate selection

Laminate board underlay plays the role thermal insulation, sound insulation, waterproofing, shock-absorbing element. Most often, it is made of polyethylene foam, polystyrene foam and cork.

1. Polyethylene foam... The simplest and cheapest substrate is made of roll-fed polyethylene foam. Most often, such material will not have to bear additional costs, since it is applied to the laminate as an application. The main advantages are good thermal insulation and waterproofing. The disadvantage is low durability, insufficient amortization properties; during operation, it quickly loses its shape and begins to crumble. At their cost, polyethylene foam films are much more economical than other substrates. So, a film with an area of ​​1 m² with a thickness of 5 mm will cost, on average, 26 rubles, with a thickness of 10 mm - 60 rubles.
2. Cork film... The backing made of rolled cork film has excellent sound and heat insulation, high shock absorption characteristics, is durable, and evens out unevenness of the subfloor well. Disadvantages - low moisture resistance, which limits the use in the bathroom; and high price. The cheapest films cost 350 rubles / m² without a base (2 mm thick) and with a base of 750 rubles / m²; and films of the famous companies Granorte, Wicanders - more than 1020 rubles / m².
3. Expanded polystyrene... Expanded polystyrene film with a foil layer is the most common substrate option. In terms of price, it occupies an intermediate position between the previous materials, but has high durability and good waterproofing properties, while it also has the positive properties of other substrates. The main disadvantage is the lower bursting resistance compared to cork film. The average cost of a film (such as PPT), depending on the thickness, ranges from 130 (2 mm) to 400 (10 mm) rubles / m².

How to lay laminate flooring

Installation includes next steps: marking the area, laying the underlay, applying the laminate and finishing activities.

Required tool

To lay laminate flooring, you will need the following tool:

• electric jigsaw or hacksaw for metal for cutting laminate;
• scissors for cutting the substrate;
• a brush for applying glue;
• clamp or vise for fixing tiles when cutting;
• mallet for adjusting the plates;
• metal tape measure and ruler for marking;
• level for horizontal control.

Budgeting

The manufacture of flooring should begin with calculating the required amount of materials and drawing up a cost estimate. First of all, you need to calculate amount of laminate, which is estimated by area. The consumption of laminate tiles, on average, is equal to the floor area of ​​the room with the addition of waste of the order of 7%. The substrate should be selected with the width of the roll, a multiple of the width of the room - then its overrun will not exceed 5% of the area of ​​the room.

For example, you need to lay the floor in a 4x6 m room, i.e. 24 m². Choosing for a substrate expanded polystyrene at a price of 320 rubles / m². Film consumption - 24x1.05 = 25.2 m². Cost - 320x25.2 = 8064 rubles. Laminate - class 32 with a thickness of 7 mm at a price of 347 rubles / m². Laminate consumption - 24x1.07 = 25.7 m². Cost - 347x25.7 = 8918 rubles. Thus, the total costs will be about 17 thousand rubles. The average time that will have to be spent on cutting and installing the cover is about 8 hours. If you still want to invite a master to carry out the work, then you need to prepare an additional 250 rubles per 1 m² of cover (average cost of work); those. to the room taken as an example, the savings will be at least 6 thousand rubles

Video instruction