Do-it-yourself bedside table. Do-it-yourself wooden bedside table How can you make a bedside table narrower than it was

Curbstone, i.e. a rigid, durable structure capable of carrying loads as a whole is the main unit of cabinet furniture. Sometimes it transforms and hides, but it is always there. Incl. and as a stand-alone product - a bedside table - suitable for a variety of uses in the home. In this form, it does not stand out in the interior, and in utility rooms its appearance can be whatever it came out of the hands, if only it was strong. Therefore, it is from the bedside table that the novice furniture maker needs to get to the wardrobes, beds, dressers, furniture sets and walls.

The bedside table, with all the variety of design and construction, has a place to be, in general, in the following guises, see fig:

Nightstand-cabinet, pos. 1. Without painstaking finishing, unprepossessing, but durable, tk. going on the frame. On the one hand, it allows you to do without cladding, which is important for balcony bedside tables, or to make it easily removable, which is no less important for a bathroom bedside table. On the other hand, a solid worktop can be applied to the frame, which will come in handy in a garage, shed or workshop.

Chest of drawers, pos. 2, lives mainly in kitchens, nurseries and dressing rooms: you can put a lot of all sorts of things into it, and when you take out the drawers, it is easy to clean or repair. This is already a product of a panel structure with walls and shelves that make up a single power circuit. The usual dimensions of the chest of drawers, see fig. on right.

Volumetric shelving units, pos. 3, and cupboards, pos. 4, more suitable for the living room, bedroom, hallway, study or in the common nursery. The structure is also panel board.

Extremely simplified bedside table, pos. 5, it can be a bedside one, but most often it complements a coffee table in a soft corner of the living room.

Combined bedside tables are more common. For example, a product at pos. 6 there is a cabinet below, above it is a chest of drawers from the 1st drawer, and above it is a rack from the 1st half-closed and 1st open shelves. Combined pedestals are most commonly used due to their versatility.

How are the pedestals made?

Factory-made bedside tables are usually assembled on furniture self-tapping screws and / or eccentric connectors. Collect them either in trade organizations before selling, or home buyers on their own. With a different technological cycle, the production of such a simple product as a bedside table will be unprofitable. But, making a curbstone for yourself, it is better to use more labor-consuming, but cheap, reliable and durable connections of the class "wood on wood"; at least for the supporting parts.

To make a cabinet with your own hands, you need, firstly, to master 2 types of furniture joints: groove-tongue (groove-comb, tongue-and-groove connection) and on dowels. For example, cabinet frame, see fig. on the right, it is assembled from 4 lower tsars, 4 front (vertical) tsars and also 4 upper tsars. The upper and lower drawers can be front / rear and side, i.e. different.

The drawers forming the frame are connected by tongue-and-groove joints; the shelves are stacked on support bars, also embedded in the front drawers on spikes in the grooves. Correctly made with wedging, tongue-and-groove joints in such a small object as a bedside table do not require the expense of glue.

Pedestals of the panel construction (all except pos. 1) are assembled on dowels with gluing. Supports for the shelves are also made dowel. Only guides for boxes are attached with metal hardware.

To make a drawer for a bedside table or cabinet, you will have to master a type of tongue-and-groove connection - a box one. The general sequence of its working operations is shown in Fig.:

Well, a more complete picture will be given by a selection of videos:

Video: box connection entirely by hand with a conventional jigsaw

Video: box connection with an electrified tool

Video: dovetail connection on a regular circular

The last video can be useful to those who, over time, having improved in carpentry skills, decide to work on order. Furniture assembled on a dovetail is highly valued by connoisseurs, but on condition: the tails must be handmade, not milled on an automatic machine. And the method shown there gives the tails a neat, but completely artisanal look. In addition, knowing how to connect parts on a dovetail, you can try yourself in an equally profitable area - the restoration of old furniture.

Straight tenon-groove joints are usually assembled with glue, but you can do otherwise. To do this, vertical blind holes (4 at the top and 4 at the bottom, 8 in total) are drilled at the corners of the box from the sidewalls with a depth of 2-4 thorns and a diameter of 2.5-3 mm. Studs made of bamboo or beech are tightly driven into the holes. "Spire" the box after fitting the parts and final assembly.

Drawer for bedside table

The device of the furniture drawer is shown in Fig. on right. The bottom is made of plywood with a thickness of 3-5 mm, depending on the desired strength. Please note: the front of the drawer is not included in its power circuit, it is an overhead detail. Do it differently - from pushing / pulling out the drawer will warp over time or even fall apart. The drawers are made from boards with a thickness of 12 mm or more or plywood from 6 mm. The box is assembled with a box connection.

It is advisable to take solid and durable wood on the cranial bars: oak, birch. However, if you have a wood router, you can put the bottom easier and stronger: select a groove in the drawers at the bottom along the contour and insert the bottom into it during assembly. The distance of the bottom edge of the groove from the bottom of the box is from 3 mm for solid thin-layer industrial wood and not less than the thickness of the drawer side for an array of softwood; the depth of the groove is from 4 mm, but not more than 1/2 the thickness of the drawer side.

The facades of the boxes are internal, pos. And on the trail. fig., or external, pos. B. Interior fronts are more elegant, but require more precise fitting of details. There is no significant difference in mechanics between them.

Facades and homemade furniture drawer guides

Wooden guides for boxes are made on the bottom rail, pos. 1, on the side rail, pos. 2, and on the fold of the quarter rail, pos. 3. Installation of boxes on the bottom rail is technologically simple and provides an acceptable box width, but “eats up” a lot of space in height; the drawer on the lower slats can jam a completely new and neatly made one. In general, the worst way.

Landing on the middle rail requires milling the grooves in the side drawers, but it provides the greatest width and depth of the boxes, because gaps both from the bottom and from the sides will be enough and 3-4 mm. If the rail is oak, and the drawers are pine or plywood, then the drawers on the middle rail almost never jam when pulled out 2 / 3-3 / 4.

The quarter lath can be planed by hand with special planers: a zenzubel and a falzgebel, see fig., Therefore, in the old days, setting boxes of handicraft furniture into a quarter seam was widespread. Pushed out no more than 2/3, the drawer moves in a quarter almost without jamming, but a lot of space in the cabinet structure is wasted.

About full stem guides

If you decide to spend money on modern full-extension guides for the drawers of your cabinet, then consider the following:

Look first not at the brand, but at the complete fasteners. Responsible and conscientious manufacturers of hardware give with shaped heads, and the key to them, so that no one gets in with a "samopal".
The assembly instructions should contain the exact dimensions for the fasteners, a complete description of the technical operations with the drilling depth and the requirements for the base (wood - what kind?, Laminate, MDF).
It is better to take inexpensive guides with propylene rollers. They run smoothly and are quiet, but are not as strong or durable as ball bearings. However, this is not important for the nightstand, unless you store gold in bars in it.
Full stem guides are bottom and side. For the bedside tables, the lower ones are better, the drawers can be made wider. Side guides require clearance on the sides from 30 mm, which, with an overall width of 400 mm, reduces the inner width of the drawer to 250-280 mm. And the bottom guides will have enough lateral gaps of 6-16 mm.

What are the pedestals made of?

A wooden bedside table can be made of any wood suitable for furniture, for example. the same as for a stool or table, as well as plywood, laminate, MDF. The thickness of the boards is 12-40 mm, depending on the construction. On the dowels, cranial bars, wooden guides and drawers of the cabinet frame, it is better to take solid dense wood - oak, beech, birch; in the latter case, also on the countertop, since they work on such bedside tables and load them with weights.

The back side of the board cabinets is most often sheathed with a thin, 4-6 mm, laminated chipboard, pinned with a furniture stapler. In cheap furniture, the bottoms of the boxes are also made of laminated chipboard, but this is not necessary for oneself: it sags, crawls out of the grooves or breaks off the "shards".

The doors of the bedside tables are most often hung on hidden adjustable furniture hinges, but under them you need to choose holes in boards from 20 mm thick with a cutter. If there is no possibility or desire to put hidden hinges, then the doors are hung on piano hinges. The cabinet doors on card hinges soon warp due to the small size of the hinges and the shallow drilling depth for fasteners.

About finishing

The bedside table is not a significant piece of the interior, so there is no point in spending money on expensive finishes. It is best to paste over a ready-made, planed and sanded to smoothness cabinet in a living room with self-adhesive wood-like and double-coat it with acrylic varnish. Then an experienced cabinetmaker will not immediately distinguish it from a "real" one with veneering, and a film under acrylic in direct light will last for at least 10 years.

Where is what bedside table?

Hallway

This is the first room where a homemade cabinet, as they say, is asked for. They don't really look at the furniture in the hallway, and a shoe cabinet is very necessary here: an average family of 4 now accounts for about 20 pairs of shoes, see fig. The old Soviet shoe rack will not be enough here.

Shoe cabinets are on sale in a wide range, but the prices encourage substandard, and looking at the hinge designs, it seems that they were copied from the pivot points of solar panels of spacecraft. Meanwhile, a shoe cabinet can be made much simpler and no worse: on the left in Fig. see the drawing below, and on the right in the same place - the design of the pouf-bedside table for it, in which the accessories for shoe care are stored.

There is little storage for shoes in the hallway; we also need a bedside table for gloves, hats, handbags, etc. little things. It should be higher than usual so that you can look in the mirror while standing. The dimensions and general view of the bedside table in the general-purpose hallway, see Fig. on the right, only it is better to do it not on legs, but on a skirt made of 20-30 mm boards, so that debris does not accumulate under it.

Bedroom

The choice of a bedside table for a bedroom set is determined by the habits and character of the owner. The usual bedside table, pos. 1 and 2 on the next. rice. combined: top open shelf for an alarm clock, phone, glasses; the middle one is for reading at night, and in closed compartments everything is stored: from books “for later” and the next change of bed linen to intimate accessories for lovers of “strawberries and cream”.

Lovers of long and meaningful reading before bedtime prefer shelving cabinets, pos. 3. This habit, by the way, greatly develops mental abilities and helps to maintain clarity of thought until a ripe old age: what is read for a dream to come, unless it is meaningless reading, is absorbed by the brain in a dream especially deeply and clearly.

Shelves-shelves are popular with fans of sophisticated design, pos. 4, but the sophistication of the bedside table can also be functional. How do you like the bedside table in pos. 5? Half the table transformation mechanism and a bit of fiction.

In general, the bedside table is a grateful object for creative ingenuity. To begin with, we give diagrams of two, see fig. In the sideboard-chest of drawers on the left, additional overlays are applied to the facades, which allows you to get an elegant design by simple means. And the bedside table-rack on the right consists of only 4 parts of a simple form.

Balcony

Glazed balcony - utility room, narrow, with an unstable microclimate. Therefore, the bedside table on the balcony is made on a frame, see fig. This allows, firstly, to dispense with the pedestal lining and put it without gaps in which condensation will accumulate. Secondly, the increased strength of the cabinet-cabinet will allow you to work on it or, say, transfer a refrigerator to the balcony, which will give great savings in electricity. And so that small objects are not lost, the tabletop is upholstered along the contour with a furniture fillet or a plinth.

Living room

A curbstone in the living room, except for the magazine, pos. 1 in the figure, according to a modern and well-founded trend in interior design, is performed long and low. The design is chosen based on the style of the room design, pos. 2-4. But a TV stand with the same overall design must meet specific requirements.

Drawers in the living room

The efficiency of acoustic systems (AC) is related to the wavelength of sound, which in bass (bass, low frequencies) is meters and tens of meters. Speaker designers try their best to bypass these limitations, and they are not to be occupied with success. But all the same, the size and volume of modern flat-panel TVs do not allow them to be equipped with built-in acoustics that satisfactorily reproduce low frequencies. And here the TV stand can come to the rescue: it "catches" the low frequency vibration of the TV and transmits it into the air, adding juiciness to the sound. Only if the TV is not a "bubble" of previous generations: a heavy tube suspended in it will extinguish them.

The TV cabinet must, firstly, have an open resonator tuned to about 80-100 Hz. A niche for a player with dimensions of about 800x400x200 mm will do just fine. Secondly, the “juice” can be added to the sound if the TV operates on small-sized external speakers, placing them in niches with a volume of 20 liters or more with a gap of 4-8 cm on the sides and on top; the effect of "saturation" of sound from closed-type speakers in niches is well known to music lovers. The “ideal” TV stand design is shown in fig. on the right, and drawings of 2 suitable, for external acoustics and without it, in Fig. below.

But that is not all. The box of the bedside table, its back wall and the bottom of the resonating cavities should be made of a board of 30 mm and more, and intermediate parts - of a board of 20 mm or more. And that's not all: the material (spruce, pine, larch, hemlock, laminate, MDF) must have its own mechanical quality factor within 0.7-1.2. However, there is no need to look for a sound-measuring laboratory, it is enough to tap the blanks with your knuckles: the sound should be clear, but short and dry, without a ringing. The "cotton" board will absorb any vibrations, and the ringing one will "catch" unnecessary ones, which will give unpleasant overtones. And that's for sure everything, the glue on which the curbstone is assembled should give a seam that retains its plasticity for years; best of all - PVA.

Bathroom

It is impossible to give any general dimensions of the bathroom cabinets, because a sink with a siphon will fit in it, of which there are no different numbers on the market, and the release into the sewer lounger can be arranged in any way. But the general principles of designing bedside tables for wet rooms are quite definite:

The cabinet in the bathroom must be raised above the floor, otherwise anisanitary conditions are inevitable, on the left in Fig.
Therefore, it is attached to the wall, on the right in the same place.
Fasteners to provide access to plumbing fixtures must be detachable: stainless (worse - bronze or galvanized) self-tapping screws in propylene dowels. Metal in metal, e.g. stainless bolts and the same collets, will become attached so that the curbstone will have to be broken.
A vanity unit is made of decay-resistant wood: oak, resinous pine, larch.
After the initial dry assembly and fitting of the parts, they are individually treated with an aniseptic for wood, and after 3-7 days with a water repellent, i.e. water-repellent agent. If an inexpensive (but very good) water-polymer emulsion is used, then the treatment is carried out twice with an interval of 1-3 days.

Under the aquarium

Aquarium is the most useful business in all respects. But the aquarium is subject to the law of the square-cube in almost pure form: as the size of the tank of the aquarium increases, its volume and weight grow faster than the size of the supporting area, i.e. the load from the aquarium per unit of bearing surface area increases. It is believed that the weight of an aquarium with soil, population and equipment in kg is equal to approximately 1.5 volumes of water in it in liters. It follows from this that the cabinet for the aquarium must meet the following conditions:

An aquarium up to about 100 liters can be placed on any cabinet of a suitable size, because ordinary furniture is designed for a load of 150 kgf.
A reinforced curbstone is needed for a tank up to about 150 liters; preferably wireframe. The combat tsars are made from a bar from 60x60 mm; horizontal - from 100x50 mm. The step of installing the front sidewalls is not more than 400 mm; their height is up to 650 mm. Worktop - solid laminate from 32 mm.
For larger aquariums, the support pressure exceeds the building norm of 250 kg / sq. m, so the stands for them are calculated individually based on the size of the tank and the parameters of the building structure; the aquarium stand is usually mechanically connected to the building structure. In an apartment building, a large aquarium design must be checked / developed by a specialized organization and approved by the building operator.

About corner pedestals

The bedside table is essentially a subordinate element of the interior, therefore, corner cabinets in living rooms are not in use: what is on the corner is always in sight. In an ordinary bathroom or in the kitchen there is simply no place for such, but a corner cabinet can come in handy in a narrow partition behind the door for all sorts of little things, which are equally inconvenient to hide away and keep in sight. For example, for not the most favorite toys, knitting / weaving, which is taken as they have free time, etc. For such a case - in Fig. on the left is a diagram of a corner cabinet-rack. The dimensions in the plan can be changed according to your apartment.

Just in case

All this is good, the reader may say, but what if a bedside table is needed “for the day before yesterday”? Not gorgeous, but made of junk material so that it could be done in half a day and for 5-7 years was it enough? Say, to the dacha, to the garage, to the barn?

Please. In fig. shows how to make a durable and comfortable bedside table from the pallet left over from the construction site or other unnecessary boards. It is so easy to make that no explanation is required. But making this will give a sense of material and design, which will allow you to start working on products that are quite aesthetic and even exclusive.

Interestingly, the do-it-yourself cabinet- not just cheap furniture. It is a stylish addition to the interior of the room. Almost everyone can create a curbstone. But the original is already more difficult to make.

Let's dwell on the most popular types and the most simple products to create.

In terms of design and construction, do-it-yourself cabinets can be different.Here are ten consistently popular bedside tables.

Simple, like a small table, with obvious wood textures, here you can even use ordinary nails on the background of light natural wood in texture and it will look amazing.

If you have previously worked with wood, then you can make this unique and simple cabinet.
A wooden cabinet made of thick beams, which have been cut and retained as a surface the graceful turns of the rings of the old wood. All this is complemented by a solid dark metal corner, which serves as a fastener for the timber.

Beautiful wooden pedestals, which can be appreciated if placed in the room.
A light wood bedside table with open shelves will always be relevant and will emphasize the cleanliness of the interior.

It is worth with a special feeling to approach the design of bedside tables and tables.
Simple bedside tables with marvelous ornaments are open items, which the master flatteringly awarded with special decorative elements.

Various ornaments and shapes are used to create such interesting bedside tables.
Openwork bedside tables made of metal look so charming that metal ceases to be something bulky, on the contrary, it gives the product lightness and subtlety.

An interesting and non-standard design of a curbstone with metal legs will decorate the interior of the room.
A curbstone with doors and an open shelf is both ordinary and boring, with the help of paints and fabrics, it turns into a retro version, this one will definitely not be thrown away.

Interesting and bright sideboards designed in different styles will create an unforgettable and calm atmosphere in the room.
Antique style cabinets also look unbeatable indoors.

An interesting light cabinet with your own hands is created in an incredible antique style.
There was a "gray horse", but it has become a stylish black-and-white bedside table.

A bright and unforgettable cabinet in black and white will be a great addition to the interior of the room.
You can take your time to carry antique wooden boxes to the trash, because after careful processing of this valuable ancient tree, you can safely put them in a special configuration in place of the bedside table.

Antique wooden boxes have formed such a cute nightstand that will brighten up any room.
A brick block bedside table will be in perfect harmony with everything that you put on it. Juicy green flowers in pots on such a bedside table look especially elegant and modern.

A beautiful and non-standard curbstone is made of brick blocks.

It can be listed for a long time, but all the abundance of the bedside table, depending on the production technology, is divided into only three types:

With the floor options, everything is clear, these are ordinary products that are easy to move, and for stability they need legs or wheels. But suspended ones are practically new varieties. These products are attached to the ceiling using a convenient method (it can be a rope or a special strong decorative chain). Do-it-yourself wall options for pedestals are also easy.

It is necessary to make a structure and fix it in the right place right in the wall using long self-tapping screws.

You can find an affordable master class on how to make a bedside table out of drawers. Try to create things yourself and at no extra cost.

Necessary materials

In order to make the simplest version of the bedside table, which would "fit" into any room, the following materials will come in handy:

Several boxes (three small enough);
Wood processing products (any available paints and varnishes);
Flexible sanding pad;
Various elements for decoration;
Self-tapping screws;
Screwdriver;
Material for the top panel of the bedside table.

DIY materials for making bedside tables.

Work process

Making a bedside table out of drawers is easy and simple, if you follow simple steps:

Treatment

In order to be able to use old drawers as pedestals, the spoiled pieces of wood of each product need to be made more perfect.

Using a flexible sanding pad, you need to make a smooth and even surface on each side.

Then, after rubbing, the surface should be cleaned of excess sawdust and dust. Only then cover the wood with a wood stain, if you plan to use varnish as a decoration. Or cover with a special paint base for long-term storage of wood.

Then you can paint it in the desired color.

Fixing elements

You can connect the boxes with each other using special screws. It is also safer to attach a beam on the back side. We also fix the beam with self-tapping screws.

We buy corners and fasteners in a furniture accessories store.

Top of the product

Any sturdy material can serve as a cover for an exclusive bedside table. We fix it with self-tapping screws. At this stage, you can decorate the finished product using any decorative elements. Rhinestones, various beads, special glue elements can act as decor. Lace fabric, popular in decoration, can be easily used to create retro-style cabinets.

You can easily make such a bedside table with your own hands.

The final stage: fastening to the wall

So the moment has come when it will be possible to try on new furniture in the room. We simply fix the finished product with the help of long self-tapping screws, and you can call the hostess who will decorate the curbstone with stylish gizmos and indoor flowers.

Pay close attention to the quality of each fastener.

If you have chosen a rather massive material for the top of the product, then you should pay special attention to decent strengthening. Since the cabinet below will not hold anything, it will be hung on the wall. The type of construction is easy to change, just make legs for this furniture and it will already turn from a wall product to a floor one.

Try yourself as a master and do it without mistakes.

Today, handmade products are appreciated, and how much more you can think of!

VIDEO: Bedside tables in the interior.

It is a must-have for any bedroom design. You can put a lamp on it, as well as this place for many necessary things: books, cups with a drink, a remote control, etc. Such a bedroom interior item can be bought at any furniture store. However, it is much more pleasant to make a bedside table with your own hands. Moreover, making a bedside table with your own hands in accordance with the drawings is a matter that does not require special skill and skill. And the design of such a hand-made bedside table can be anything, for example, this.

Making a bedside table

Our bedside table will consist of a table top, two side and back walls and two drawers with handles. The dimensions of the table top are 60x40 cm. The height of the bedside table is 55 cm. For the manufacture of the bedside table, we need wooden blanks for the table top, sides and front of the drawers, furniture plastic corners in the amount of 6 pieces. The drawers themselves and the bottom shelf will be made of chipboard, and the back wall of the bedside table will be made of fiberboard.

We cut all the blanks for the future bedside table, which we need to do with our own hands, in accordance with the intended dimensions. Then paint all the details, except the boxes, with Alpina dark brown matte paint.

We collect the frame of the bedside table. We fasten two furniture corners to the inner upper part of the sides and two to the lower part.

We attach the countertop to the upper corners, and the inner lower shelf on the lower corners.

We install and fix the guides for the bedside table. The guides are 5 cm less than the depth of the bedside table. They must be attached to the bottom of the drawers.

We attach the handles to the drawers. If the color of the handles does not match the overall design of the bedside table, they can be painted in the desired color and opened with varnish. To fix the handles, we drill holes in the facades of the drawers. Make sure these holes are centered. After the holes have been drilled, it is necessary to paint the fronts of the drawers and only then tighten the handles.

We collect boxes. To do this, we drill holes with a thin drill and fasten the walls of the boxes with self-tapping screws.

I was not the first who came up with the idea that when using ordinary chairs and stools, a lot of the useful volume of the room is lost.

This is especially acute in our small kitchens, in which it is often simply impossible to fit everything you need. Indeed, it is not necessary to use an ordinary stool as a seating place - it will be equally convenient to sit on a small bedside table in which you can store kitchen utensils or food. Isn't it "a piece of furniture without a back and armrests for one person's seat"?

These reflections led me in the end to the decision to make something like a hybrid of a bedside table and a stool - a bedside table. And since I do not live alone, I decided to make two such products at once. Of course, this does not appeal to the headset, but a pair of identical things still reduces the furniture inconsistency in the kitchen.

The choice of material for the manufacture of nightstands stools

I decided to make the body of the product from pine furniture board. Laminated HDF sheet was perfect as a back wall. But I wanted to make the seat itself from a harder wood - for example, from birch.

Sikkens water lantern planned for finishing. The tone is the same as the kitchen is decorated. The final "kinship" with her was provided by such small details as handles: I picked them up with the same pattern as on all other kitchen handles.

I decided to cover the seat with a lighter color varnish. I used corners, dowels and eccentric ties as fastening accessories.

Doors

I decided to make the doors paneled - they were supposed to give additional "importance" to such a small object. The panel itself was made of 18 mm thick furniture board, like the strapping bars. Buying a pine furniture board in the store, I noticed that several panels are glued not from lamellas spliced along the length, but from solid ones, and even radial sawing. Such shields are the best blanks for doors. Of course, they immediately ended up in my cart.

At the panel, I processed the figarine field not only from the front side, but also from the back. It is not so wide there. For work, I purchased an assembly of cutters from the firm CMT, which allows you to simultaneously remove "excess" from both sides of the workpiece. True, this is possible only with a not very wide

the processing area, but the productivity of the cutters is still very high: one pass is enough for processing. Of course, the milling cutter must have a power of at least 2 kW and be with the obligatory function of maintaining constant speed under load. This is very important, since it is possible to work with milling cutters of large diameters only at the appropriate speed - usually no more than 11,000-12,000 rpm.

And more about security. If we turned the router over and secured it to the table, the danger of this tool increased significantly. Under no circumstances should fingers meet the rotating cutter! For safety, I, for example, always use a protective screen made of durable and transparent material. My screen is tilted to the side to the operator, so that a finger cannot fit between it and the workpiece. And in shape, the screen is elongated in length so that the palm also does not reach the cutter from the side. Although when working, the hands should not be at the side at the level of the cutter, but only in the area of the workpiece in front of the screen.

I also processed the strapping bars on a milling table using a set of two cutters - for the profile and the counter profile.

IMPORTANT
For each cutter diameter there is a limiting speed - it is dangerous to exceed it.

Bedside table - do-it-yourself stool: manufacturing progress

The panels were made with a powerful router fixed in the table. The protective screen is clearly visible.

Manufacturing of body parts and assembly

There were no special difficulties with the opening of the furniture board. First, I saw it with a circular saw along the guide along, then - across. I planed the edges with a plane and chamfered them with a low-power hand cutter.

After that, I sanded the planes of the parts. This job is best done with an orbital sander. Since I planned to use a water-based varnish, I moistened the parts with water before sanding. In this case, the fibers swell, the pile rises. When the details dried up, the "orbiter" took it all off. After such sanding, the pile no longer lifts when the varnish is applied, and the varnished surfaces become smooth and pleasant to the touch - as it should be for furniture.

When I varnished the parts, I made sure not to paint over the places where the glue would be applied during assembly: clean, varnish-free surfaces stick together more firmly.

The doors are pre-assembled and ready for painting. Blanks for walls and lids are awaiting further processing. To make the racks look more like stool legs, I drilled two Ø 35 mm holes in the bottom of the racks on a drilling machine (like cups for hinges) ...

... and then cut out the excess with a jigsaw, moving the file in a straight line.

At the seats, I slightly rounded the corners with an allowance with a jigsaw. I used the first round object that came to my hand as a template. Then he brought the circles to the correct shape with a belt sander. In conclusion, I chamfered a 6.3 mm radius around the perimeter with a hand mill.

After finishing the paneling and the strapping bars, I glued the doors in the folds.

IMPORTANT
Usually, in chipboard furniture, two attachment points are used per side (for example, at a shelf). But the glued furniture board in the transverse direction is not rigid enough, therefore it is better that there are more attachment points, at least three.

The seat was attached to the uprights with eccentric ties. Pre-marked the places of drilling holes in the end edges of the posts.

Drilled holes for eccentric rods with a 7 mm drill ...

... and under the eccentrics themselves I drilled Ø 15 mm cups on a drilling machine (if it is absent, you can do this with a drill fixed in the rack).

The lower shelves were fastened on dowels and corners (they are invisible at the bottom, so they do not spoil the view). I drilled holes for the dowels on a homemade machine.

Then, from the bottom of the seats, I marked the center lines of the edges of the pillars. Having combined the racks and seats, I found the places of the holes for the eccentric rods.

He drilled holes with a Ø 5 mm drill with a depth limit and screwed in the rods.

I connected the lower shelves with dowels with uprights ...

... and secured with corners. To attach the rear wall to the underside of the seat, I pre-screwed a bar with self-tapping screws. The racks have grooves for the rear wall.

I attached the back wall with self-tapping screws to the bottom shelf, uprights and seat bar. It consists of two sheets of laminated (front side) HDF glued together and provides additional rigidity to the product.

The doors were installed inside the case on internal hinges. Therefore, to fix them in the closed position (so as not to fall through), I installed a false rail. It remains to glue soft pads from the bottom of the racks-legs - and you can sit down at the table.

The chosen color of the finish of the product matches well with the tone of the rest of the kitchen furniture.

Diy nightstand stool - photo

So that you can easily screw in a light bulb, wipe the cornice or get to the top of kitchen cabinets, I made a comfortable step stool.

Previously, I cut out templates of all structural details from thick cardboard (see the figure on page 15) and transferred them onto 20 mm thick multilayer plywood (you can use a furniture board or a board of a suitable size). Then, with an electric jigsaw, I cut out the details of the stool along the contour, and on the side walls (1), the seat (2) and the back wall of the "insert" (8), I cut out angular and semicircular holes and grooves. I drilled holes d 6 mm in both side walls of the stool and in the ends of the base of the sliding part.

I started assembling. To the inner sides of the side walls (1) at the required height (depending on the size of the "insert" step), fixed the strips (5) with the size of 20x25x60 mm. I attached the base (3) to the side walls with self-tapping screws, and transverse strips (4) to the cutouts on the sidewalls. Top mounted seat (2)

Separately, I assembled the retractable part of the stool, connecting all the parts (6, 7, 8) with dowels and glue, and secured it to the base with bolts and bushings. To do this, on both sides, at the junction in the holes of the base (7), I glued metal tubes of a suitable diameter with an internal thread M6, placed a retractable stand and connected it to the base by screwing bolts into threaded bushings.

On a note

Before screwing in the bolts, I put washers under their heads.

The stool was sanded and covered with colorless varnish.

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