Plywood markings for adjustable floors. Adjustable floors: analysis of the technology of the device lag on supports with your own hands. Video - Adjustable lags preparatory process

Adjustable flooring is a new technology that will give you the opportunity to reduce your flooring time.

Just like any other technology, it has its pros and cons.

But this is precisely the kind of professionalism of specialists (builders), in order to be able to choose the one that will be truly ideal and optimal among the large number of variations of the flooring device itself.

How does an adjustable floor work?

Mechanism

The completed flooring is installed under wooden logs (if, of course, you are using floorboards), or on a solid OSB base (if you are using soft flooring or laminate) or sheets of so-called plywood.

Important! During the period of the construction itself, absolutely any floors - the so-called bearing surface must be located in a horizontal position, this is mandatory.

Basically, it is incredibly difficult to achieve this result with the help of fixed logs; often you have to use all kinds of pads and wedges to align the spatial position.

These wedges have the ability to creak or bend in the event of improper and inaccurate fixation, or simply later for other reasons to fall out. You cannot fix these problems without dismantling the coverage area, and dismantling itself is associated with huge losses of money and time.

These adjustable floors are perfect for leveling the surface on almost any unevenness in the subfloor. In addition, the alignment mechanism itself will give you the ability to adjust the gap between the supporting base and the floor, and this will already make it possible to place various kinds of engineering networks in such areas.

Adjustable floors mainly consist of metal studs, plywood sheets, plastic stud bolts or floor logs. A fairly large number of modifications of control systems are being carried out, but such a fundamental difference between them is simply not found.

By rotating the threaded joints, the connection itself runs very smoothly (raising or lowering structural elements), in this way you can set the very base of the floors in the required position as accurately as possible.

There are several types of floors (adjustable) in the world, let's take a closer look at them.

Types of adjustable floors

Adjustable floor with plastic adjustment mechanism

Features (characteristic): Most can be realized assembled with separate kits or lags. The floors are installed from the factory much faster, because they have threaded threads in the joists, and therefore there is no need to drill with a hole mark.

The dimensions of the lags themselves are as follows: thirty by fifty millimeters, and the distance between the bolts is exactly forty centimeters. We advise you to install the lags in increments of thirty / forty centimeters, the exact value must be selected taking into account the maximum expected load on the floor itself.

Adjustable floor with metal leveling device

Features (characteristic): For the plastic joints, metal studs with washers and nuts are used. They can withstand heavy loads, but it is quite difficult to work with them.

Adjustable floor on metal corners

Features (characteristic): A plus in these corners is the stability of the lags themselves, you can create very complex floor designs, taking into account the peculiarities of the layout of your rooms. The only drawback is that the installation time increases quite significantly.
Not only logs can be regulated, but also plates.

The second option is used only for laminate flooring and soft flooring. You can apply the second option to almost all types of finished flooring.

With your own hands

You also have the opportunity to make adjustable floors yourself, this option has its advantages. The main ones are a fairly large savings in money (lower cost), as well as the ability to select the parameters yourself, depending on the specific features of the application.

Also, if you have a desire, you can perform floor insulation using adjustable floors, which is considered quite important in the context of very high prices for the energy carriers themselves.

Installation technology

Adjustable lags on plastic bolts

For a base of a load-bearing nature, a cement-sand or concrete screed, a special set of adjustable joists is used, made directly from the factory. We can tell you right away that this option is considered the most expensive for adjustable floors.

The first step is to measure the room. This is necessary in order to determine how much lag is needed for a given room. If you are going to make floors in the bath, then know that they do not have a huge load, the distance between the lags must be up to forty-five centimeters.

The next step is to bend the distance between the lags on the screed. For this moment, a rope with blue is used, with the help of which the work on the beating will be done very high quality and, most importantly, quickly.

After that, the third step will be to cut the log to the required length. Basically, the length of the logs from the factory is about four hundred centimeters. You should carefully consider how you need to mark the logs in order to minimize the amount of waste as much as possible.

The distance from the cutting line to the nearest adjusting bolt must be at least one hundred millimeters. If the end is much closer to the above-mentioned mark, then the risks of the formation of various cracks under load appear.

This is followed by the fourth step, namely the decomposition of the lag around the marked lines. To install, you will need:

• Special wrench for screwing in bolts;
• Screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Chisel;
• Doboinik for fixing dowels;
• Drill with a perforator.

Then you need to install the first log in a vertical position - just screw the threaded hole into simple plastic bolts. After this, you will need to put the ends of the bolts on the line and then drill a hole in the base for the dowel itself.

The depth of such holes (under the dowel itself) must be about two to three centimeters, while its length should be exceeded. This is due to the hole, since a certain amount of concrete almost always remains in it, but if you do not make a reserve in advance in length, then it will be problematic for you to completely hammer the dowel.

The next step is to install the dowels, but you should not finish them all the way. The dowel must not resist the rotation of the bolts. Using a level that is long enough, set the log to the correct yet neat position. If your lag is already installed, and firmly enough, then just firmly fix the dowel. It is worth continuing to install the logs in turn in places with marks, while controlling the position of the marks with a level.

This can be said to be an installation algorithm offered to people by the manufacturers themselves, while most builders listen and apply such technology, mainly such builders are those who receive their wages every hour, and not by production.

Those builders who earn from production do it a little differently. To your question "How?" we will tell you. The builders take a simple hydro level and beat off the so-called zero lag level on the opposite walls (two).

After that, dowels or nails are driven into those sections, everything will be hung from the material from which the wall will be made, after which the ropes are pulled. If the logs need to be connected, then three walls should be taken. The rope will only be tightened when all the lags have already been placed in their fixing areas.

After that, everything goes very quickly and easily. Absolutely each log is installed along that rope, the main thing is that it should not touch it, it is necessary to constantly check so that the gap between the log and the rope is as minimal as possible. That's all, in this way you can finish off a very high speed of installation of the adjustable floor, and you can also increase the quality of this floor.

In general, there is a certain direct relationship between the number of measured planes and accuracy. We will explain to you now. There is a fairly high probability that the position of the first lag will deviate from the lowest level by about one millimeter.

This is normal enough by real standards. It was for this purpose that a template was produced - if you need to cut off a sufficiently large number of identical parts, and at the same time the dimensions are not removed from each already finished part in turn. In this case, the rope will act as a template.

The seventh step will be the felling, namely with a wide sharp chisel it will be necessary to cut down the protruding area of ​​the plastic bolt.

Mounting lags on metal plates

The main advantage of these floors is the increased stability of the fastening due to the increased area of ​​the lower stop. There is also a drawback, namely, the terms increase, that is, the inability to continue and generally do the work yourself.

The logs themselves must be fixed to the U-shaped plates using self-cuts, while the process of adjusting the height of the location of the logs themselves must be carried out using a series of holes on both sides of the plate, made in a vertical position.

Installation of logs on iron studs

Adjustable floors of this type can be installed without the help of others, we will tell you specifically about this option. Choose the dimensions of the lag taking into account the characteristics of the floor and the greatest loads. Iron studs with zinc coating, optimal caliber 6 ÷ 8 mm. Studs, nuts and washers are useful for the production of the system.

Step 1... Beat off parallel stripes on the supporting base at a distance of 30 ÷ 50 centimeters. The farther the distance, the tighter the lags must be chosen.

Step 2... Calculate according to the number of lags, washers, nuts and studs. The recommended distance between the studs is 30 ÷ 40 cm. Prepare all the materials used, additional components and devices for the manufacture of work.

Step 3... Mark the holes in the lags for the studs, all of them must be located on the symmetry stripes. In the marked places, first drill a through hole Ø6 mm for the pin (if the caliber of the pin is different, then the corresponding hole must be drilled). From the outside of the log, drill a hole for the washer gauge with a feather drill. The abyss of the hole must exceed the required sum of the nut height and the washer thickness by a certain number of millimeters.

There is a 2nd method of marking holes in front of the anchor, but it takes more time, but, despite all the above, excludes the possibility of errors.

Everything is done like this: first you need to outline only the last 2 holes in front of the anchor, screw them into the studs, fix the lag on 2 nuts in a suitable location. Now, during the upcoming marking, the lag will not move anywhere.

In this arrangement, it is permissible to immediately drill holes in front of the anchor to the full depth. The work is completed - the lag is removed, all the pins are screwed into the space.

This function will need to be done with each lag, labor productivity is minimized by 2 times. You yourself must take the final conclusion on the marking technique, taking into account the position of the concrete floor and the experiment of performing a similar family of cases.

Step 5... Screw a nut onto any stud and place a washer. It is better to immediately make your choice with the placement of their location in accordance with the height. Tighten the studs into the anchors firmly.

Step 6... Put logs on the studs in turn, with a wrench of the required volume by turning the lower nut to the left / right, straighten the condition of the log. Keep in mind that the thread pitch of iron nuts is much smaller than that of plastic nuts.

Step 7. Lags are exposed - it is allowed to start fixing them. Use a washer and nut, insert them into the top hole.

Important! Tighten the top nut with great effort, even a slight decrease can cause nasty squeaks when walking on the floor.

Step 8... Cut off the protruding ends of the studs with a grinder. Be careful with the logs, do not damage the unity of the lumber with the saw blade.

Installation of adjustable floors with straightening board

Rough flooring is only suitable for laminate or soft flooring. For installation, you need to purchase a set of industrial parts.

Step 1... Make a mark on the plywood sheet where the bushings will be installed, drill the holes of this cross section. The bushings must be no more than 30 cm. Drill the holes vertically, if the boundaries are located before the roll, it will be necessary to redo them, which will significantly take time and increase the installation time of the adjustable floor.

Step 2... Insert the threaded bushings into the holes on the bottom side, fix them with small self-tapping screws; during the adjustment of the floor height, they do not have to turn in any way. Manufacturers predict 4 places for fixing the bushings, so much is not necessary at all, it is enough to fix it with 2 self-tapping screws.

Step 3... Arrange the markings on the floor, make sure that the sheets do not have to be "cut" into small pieces. It is better to depict it on paper, think over a number of varieties, and only later it will turn out to choose the best one.

Step 4... Screw in all the plastic bolts, turn the plywood sheet to the desired state. Tighten the bolts the same number of turns. After installing the main plywood sheet, pay attention to the level at which the bolts are placed. In the next sheet of plywood, try to screw the bolts in the same location.

Step 5... When using a special wrench, screw in / unscrew the bolts until the plywood sheet is in any way in a horizontal position at the desired height. Continuously check its condition with a level in accordance with several planes.

It should be borne in mind that the fasteners to the concrete base are not strengthened in any way, the flooring comes out "floating". This should be taken as an interest when making the conclusion of the furnishing of floor coverings in any given room.

Step 6... After installing the outer plywood sheet, retest the condition of the subfloor. Do not forget that the regulation characteristics do not exceed 2 ÷ 3 cm in any way. If the concrete base has very large bulges, then it will be necessary to level it again.

The technology, new for many of our compatriots, makes it possible to significantly reduce the time for arranging floor coverings. Like any technology, apart from its advantages, it also has rather “problematic” characteristics. But this is the professionalism of the builders, in order to be able to choose the one that will be optimal in this particular case among the many options for flooring.

Finishing floor coverings are installed on wooden joists (in the case of floorboards) or on a solid base of plywood or OSB sheets (in the case of laminate or soft flooring).

A very important point during the construction of any floors - the bearing surface must be located in a strictly horizontal position.

It is very difficult to achieve such a result using fixed logs; you often have to use various wedges or pads to align the spatial position. These wedges can fall out due to improper fixation or for other reasons, the floors begin to sag and creak. It is impossible to eliminate such problems without dismantling some of the coatings, and dismantling is associated with large losses of time and money.

DIY adjustable floors - a diagram of one of the possible options

Adjustable floors allow you to perfectly level surfaces on all uneven substrates. In addition, the leveling mechanism makes it possible to adjust the gap between the floor and the supporting base, and this makes it possible to place various engineering networks in these places.

Adjustable floors consist of plastic stud bolts or metal studs, floor logs or plywood sheets. Many modifications of regulation systems are made, but there are no fundamental differences between them. By rotating the threaded connection, the elements of the structures are smoothly lowered / raised, in this way you can accurately set the base of the floors in the desired position.

There are several types of adjustable floors, you should familiarize yourself with them in more detail.

Adjustable floor. Views

Table. Types and brief characteristics of adjustable floors

Both logs and plates can be adjusted. The second option is used only for soft flooring or laminate flooring, the first option can be used for all types of floor finish.

If you wish, you can make the adjustable floors yourself; this option has its undeniable advantages. The main ones are significantly lower cost and the ability to select lag parameters depending on the specific features of operation. If desired, the adjustable floor system allows for floor insulation, which is very important in conditions of high energy prices.

Mounting technology for factory adjustable lags on plastic bolts

Initial data. The supporting base is concrete or cement-sand screed, a set of factory-made adjustable logs is used. Let's say right away that this is the most expensive option for adjustable floors.

Step 1. Take measurements of the room to determine the amount of lag. The floors in the bath do not have a heavy load, the distance between the logs can be increased up to 45 centimeters.

Step 2... Beat off the distance between the lags on the tie. To do this, use a rope with blue, with its help, the work will be done quickly and efficiently.

Step 3. Cut the logs to the required length. The length of the sold factory lags in most cases is four meters. Think carefully about how you need to mark the logs to minimize waste. The distance from the cutting line to the nearest adjusting bolt must be at least ten centimeters. If the end is closer, then there are risks of cracking under load.

Step 4. Lay out the logs around the marked lines. For installation, you will need a small drill with a perforator, a special wrench for screwing in bolts, an extension for fixing dowels, a screwdriver, a chisel and a hammer.

Step 5. Establish the first lag in a vertical position, screw plastic bolts into the threaded hole. Place the lower ends of the bolts in line and drill a dowel hole in the concrete base. The depth of the holes for the dowel should be 2 ÷ 3 centimeters longer than its length. This is due to the fact that a certain amount of concrete always remains in the hole, if you do not make a margin in length, then it will prevent you from driving the dowel completely.

Step 6. Install the dowels, but do not drive them all the way in. The dowel should not impede the rotation of the plastic bolts. Use a long level to set the correct position of the log. If the lag is installed, firmly fix the dowel. Continue to install the lags in turn in the marked places, constantly control their position with a level.

Such an installation algorithm is offered by manufacturers, this is what many builders do, who receive an hourly salary, not from production. The one who works with the development does differently. How? They take the hydro level and beat off the zero level of the lag on two opposite walls. Then, nails or dowels are driven in these places (depending on the material of the walls) and the ropes are pulled. The ropes are stretched so that they are at the ends of the logs. If the length of the room is not more than the length of the log, then you will need two ropes. If the lags had to be connected, then three. The rope is pulled only after the lags have already been placed in the places of fixation.

Then everything is simple and fast. Each lag is installed along the rope, it should not touch it, you need to check that the gap between the rope and the lag is minimal. That's all, in this way you will be able not only to significantly increase the installation speed of the adjustable floor, but also to significantly improve its quality.

There is a direct relationship between accuracy and the number of planes measured. What is meant? It is highly likely that the position of the first lag has deviated from the desired level by one millimeter. It's a little bit, everything is fine. But the fact is that the following checks will be done taking into account this deviation, again the probability of an error in a millimeter appears, and so on in increasing order. It is for this purpose that a template is made if you need to cut off a large number of identical parts, and dimensions are not removed from each finished part in turn. In this case, the rope acts as a template.

Step 7... Cut off the protruding part of the plastic bolt with a wide chisel.

Floor on plastic bolts - check

Plastic bolt prices

plastic bolts

Video - Installation technology of adjustable floors

The main advantage of such floors is that the stability of the fastening is significantly increased due to the increase in the area of ​​the lower stop. The disadvantage is that the terms increase, the inability to do the work on your own.

The lags are fixed to the U-shaped plates using self-tapping screws, the height of the lag is adjusted using a series of vertically positioned holes on both sides of the plate.

Step 1. Using a rope with blue, mark the locations of the genital lags. Calculate the required amount of material and additional structures.

Step 2... Determine the floor level, make marks on the walls. Arrange metal plates and logs along the lines. The width of the plates should correspond to the lag bus. The distance between the plates depends on the parameters of the lag; forty centimeters are enough for a bath.

Step 3... Fix the plates to the concrete base with dowels. Immediately hammer the dowels all the way, then it is very difficult to pull them up - there is a lag on top and prevents access to it. If the metal plates move a little during fixation, it's okay. When installing the logs, slightly bend their side parts in the desired direction.

Fixing the bracket

Step 4. Take the first lag, put its ends in the desired position. In this position, attach the log to the side surfaces of the U-shaped plates; use wood screws to fix it. Now you can fix the plates located in the middle of the log. But for this, constantly check the horizontal position, the lag bends a little under its own weight. If you want to do the work faster and better, then use the ropes to set the horizontal level. How this is done is described above. Make sure that the self-tapping screws do not split the logs, choose them by size, screw them in at a slight downward slope.

Step 5. After installing all the lags, you need to cut off the protruding parts of the plates with a grinder. This is rather inconvenient to do. But, despite the "difficult" cutting conditions, try to damage the wooden logs with the disc to a minimum.

Installation of lags on metal studs

Adjustable floors of this type can be made independently, we will tell you about this option. Select the dimensions of the lags taking into account the characteristics of the floor and the maximum loads. Metal studs with zinc coating, recommended diameter 6 ÷ 8 mm. To assemble the structure, you will need studs, nuts and washers.

Step 1. Beat off parallel lines on the supporting base at a distance of 30 ÷ 50 cm. The greater the distance, the more powerful the logs need to be selected.

Step 2. Calculate the number of lags, studs, washers and nuts. The recommended distance between the studs is 30 ÷ 40 centimeters. Prepare all materials, accessories and tools for the production of work.

Step 3... Mark the holes in the lags for the studs, they should all lie on the line of symmetry. In the designated places, first drill a through hole Ø6 mm for the pin (if the diameter of the pin is different, then the hole must be drilled accordingly). From the front side of the log, drill a hole for the diameter of the washer with a feather drill. The hole depth should be a few millimeters higher than the sum of the nut height and the washer thickness.

Step 4. Place each lag in turn on the broken parallel lines on the concrete screed. Very carefully, in turn, for each lag, mark the future places for the installation of the anchor threaded elements. Make sure the lag does not move. Use a drill or pencil for marks. For a drill, you need to take a drill with a victorious soldering. The places are marked - subtract the log and drill holes in the concrete. The hole dimensions must match the dimensions of the anchors.

There is a second way of marking holes for anchor, it takes more time, but completely eliminates the possibility of errors. This is how it is done. First, you need to mark only the two extreme holes for the anchor, screw the studs into them on two nuts to fix the lag in the desired position. Now, during further marking, the lag will not move anywhere. In this position, you can immediately drill holes for the anchor to the full depth. The work is done - the lag is removed, all the pins are screwed into place. This procedure will have to be performed with each lag, labor productivity is halved. But you yourself must make the final decision on the method of marking, taking into account the condition of the concrete base of the floor and your experience in performing this kind of work.

Step 5. On each stud, tighten a nut and place a washer. It is advisable to immediately approximately determine their location in height, this will speed up the work. Tighten the studs into the anchors firmly. To do this, you can use a special locksmith tool or other simple methods. You can purchase studs that have holes at the end for a plug-in barbed or a hexagon for an open-end wrench, but they are much more expensive than ordinary ones.

Video - How to twist the studs

Step 6... Put the logs on the studs in turn, align the position of the logs with a wrench of the appropriate size by turning the lower nut left / right. We have already described how this is done. Keep in mind that the thread pitch of metal nuts is much smaller than that of plastic nuts. In some cases, it will take a long time to twist, which is tedious. Moreover, the position will be uncomfortable: you have to sit on your knees, and the key is brought from below the lags.

Step 7. Lags are exposed - you can start fixing them. Use a washer and nut, insert them into the top hole.

Important! Tighten the top nut vigorously, even slight loosening can cause very unpleasant squeaks when walking on the floor.

Step 8. Cut off the protruding ends of the studs with a grinder. Be careful with the logs, do not damage the integrity of the lumber with the saw blade.

Installing floors with leveling plywood

This subfloor is only suitable for laminate or soft flooring. For installation, you need to buy a set of prefabricated elements, the work is more difficult to perform.

Step 1. Mark on a sheet of plywood where the bushings will be installed, drill holes of the specified diameter. The sleeves should be evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​the sheet, the distance between them should not be more than thirty centimeters. Drill the holes vertically, if the edges are inclined, you will have to re-drill them. This takes time and significantly increases the installation time of the adjustable floor.

Photo - drilling a hole in plywood

Step 2... Insert the threaded bushings into the holes on the bottom side, fix them with small self-tapping screws, they should not turn when adjusting the floor height. Manufacturers provide four places for fixing the bushings, so much is not needed, it is enough to fix it with two self-tapping screws.

Step 3... Make markings on the floor, try not to cut the sheets into small pieces. Layout is a plan for cutting sheets. It is advisable to draw it on paper, think over several options and only then it will be possible to choose the best one from them.

Step 4. Screw in all the plastic bolts, turn the plywood sheet over to the desired position. Tighten the bolts the same number of turns. After installing the first sheet of plywood, pay attention to the level at which the bolts are located. In the next sheet of plywood, try to screw the bolts in the same position.

Step 5. Using a special wrench, screw in / unscrew the bolts until the plywood sheet is in a strictly horizontal position at the required height. Constantly check its position with a level on several planes. Very important! All bolts should be slightly stressed, otherwise the plywood will bend. The work is quite complex, do not make the plywood sheets large. You must reach for each bolt from the concrete floor. It is very difficult to adjust the position of the plywood sheet and at the same time to be on it.

Keep in mind that the fasteners to the concrete base are not fixed, the floor is "floating". This factor should be taken into account when deciding on the arrangement of floor coverings in each particular room.

Step 6. After installing the last plywood sheet, check the position of the subfloor again. Remember that the adjustment parameters do not exceed 2 ÷ 3 centimeters. If the concrete base has too large irregularities, then it will have to be pre-leveled. Plywood should only be waterproof.

Do not use chipboard, OSB or other materials instead of heavy-duty plywood, although some manufacturers give such recommendations. Pressed materials react very poorly to multidirectional point forces; in these places they quickly lose their initial bearing capacity. Namely, such loads are present in the places where the plates are adjusted. Although plywood is much more expensive, its price will pay off during the operation of the floor.

Prices for anchors for sheet materials

anchors for sheet materials

1. Do not forget to leave 1 ÷ 2 centimeters wide gaps around the perimeter of the room near the walls for natural ventilation and to compensate for the expansion of wooden structures. These gaps are then closed with skirting boards and become invisible.

   

2. For lags, choose only high-quality lumber with a minimum number of knots. Large cracks, visible fungal diseases and molds are not allowed.

   

3. Do not drill holes for pins on knots, it is better to move them a few centimeters. The fact is that in case of violation of the integrity of a healthy knot, wood significantly loses its strength. The device of adjustable floors presupposes the presence of efforts not over the entire area of ​​the log, but only at several points. This feature requires increased strength indicators from wood. This remark also applies to the bearing base of the floor, point forces also act on it, the load per square millimeter increases significantly. Accordingly, the concrete must be strong, it is not allowed to deviate from the existing building standards during its manufacture. Any deviations in strength will lead to the destruction of the base under the stops over time, the floors will begin to sag and, as a result, it is very unpleasant to creak. It is impossible to eliminate these sounds without dismantling the entire structure.

   

4. The higher the level of the adjustable floor above the slab, the more it “sounds”. To reduce the noise level, it is recommended to use pressed mineral wool. At the same time, it will insulate the floor.

   

And the main advice in conclusion. Use adjustable floor options only as a last resort. Practice shows that the number of disadvantages of such structures exceeds the number of advantages. The cost of only regulated lags can exceed the total cost of flooring made in an ordinary traditional way. Decide what to do faster: put several logs at once or drill dozens of holes in them and then "screw" in the sweat of your brow with bolts and nuts.

Video - How to make an adjustable floor

Not so long ago, in the process of laying the logs, pieces of plywood or wooden stakes were laid on the rough base under the beams. Thus, it was possible to protect the tree from moisture and level the rough base horizontally. But over time, the substrate dried out and fell into disrepair, which affected the horizontality of the coating. In the article, we will consider modern ways of attaching lags to various types of bases.

Features of the use of fasteners

In the process of attaching the lag to a wooden base, there are no special problems. To do this, you can use long screws or corners. But what about the concrete base, into which you cannot easily screw self-tapping screws? To strengthen the joists on concrete, you need to use special types of fasteners. The choice of fasteners required for mounting the beams to the concrete floor depends on the following factors:

1. The horizontalness of the surface. Depending on whether additional alignment is required or not, height-adjustable or non-height-adjustable fasteners can be used;
2. The moisture level of the substrate. If the logs are mounted on a strip foundation, they will have to be laid almost on the ground. To fix the beams, they mainly use brick posts that protect the tree from moisture, playing the role of an insulating lining;
3. The degree of load on the base. You can strengthen the joists on the floor with the help of self-tapping screws and brackets. However, in the case of intensive use of the floor, the self-tapping screws may not withstand the load. That is why the type of fastener is chosen in accordance with the expected load on the floor covering;
4. The heights of the underground. Wood floors are prone to condensation underneath and rot. To protect the wooden base from decay and deformation, experts recommend using high supports for the logs. They form an underground space under the beams, in which air can circulate freely, which prevents the formation of condensation.

To properly fix the beams to the subfloor, you need to understand not only the fastening methods, but also the types of fasteners. Adequate choice of support will extend the service life of not only the rough, but also the finishing coat.

Types of fasteners

As already noted, fastening the beams to the floor involves the use of only two types of fasteners:

• Simple - static supports that do not allow varying the installation height of wooden elements;
• Adjustable - contain a screw structure, thanks to which the fasteners can be adjusted in height, which allows you to achieve maximum horizontal base.

What types of fasteners can be used to secure the planks to the floor?

• support posts;
• self-tapping screws;
• corners;
• brackets;
• anchor.

To understand the essence and features of the use of the above details, we will consider each of the categories in more detail.

Self-tapping screws

Self-tapping screws are simple fasteners that are used to finish wood, but not concrete, floors. Long enough male threaded rods are capable of attaching beams to wooden floors, but only if the following nuances are taken into account:

• Before the fasteners, both in the beams themselves and in the base, through holes must be made;
• It is necessary to insert a dowel into the through hole and only then screw in the self-tapping screw;
• So that the lags do not come off the wooden base, the screws are fixed in increments of 40-60 mm;
• The length of the screw is determined by the thickness of the beams, it is desirable that in the process of screwing in, the "tail" of the screw goes into the base by at least 5 cm.

The affordable price of fasteners has made them very popular among DIYers. But, in order to achieve the desired result, in the process of installing the lag, it is imperative to take into account the above points.

Anchor

Anchor is a combined fastener with self-fastening, which, unlike dowels, is not only easily fixed in the base, but also supports the weight of heavy structures. The anchor is one of the most durable and reliable types of fasteners that are used to attach the lag to any foundation (tape, pile). If we discard all the "sentiment", the anchor is still the same dowel, but with a more powerful base.

In the process of fastening, the lag anchor is mounted in about the same way as a self-tapping screw:

1. Through holes are made in the bars, after which symmetrical, but not through holes are made in the base;
2. To mask the head of the bolt, the bars must first be cross-drilled;
3. Since the anchor is very strong and capable of supporting heavy structures, no more than 4 fasteners are required to fasten one bar;
4. The locking parts of the anchors are inserted into the holes obtained, through which the bolts are screwed;
5. When sewing the log through, it is necessary that the bolts go deep into the base by about 6 cm.

To strengthen the beams on a rough basis, experts recommend using anchors with a diameter of 8 to 10 mm. Metal rods of this thickness can easily withstand very heavy loads.

Brackets

Brackets - cantilever supports that serve as a static base for fastening parts in a vertical plane. As a rule, they are used in the process of attaching the lag to the support pillars. The cruciform (x-shaped) curved parts have fixed flaps into which the timber is laid. The price of such products is much higher than in the case of self-tapping screws, however, the range of possibilities for such fasteners is much greater.

Very often, in the process of laying the subfloor, brick posts are installed on the strip foundation. They act as supports and protect the tree from moisture. Since the lag is punched out over time, it can deform without additional fasteners. The only convenient and reliable way to fix the beams to the supports is to use brackets.

Support posts

Bollards for logs are supporting structures that are assembled from bricks with a section of 1-2 bricks. In fact, these elements perform the task of "invisible" lining, preventing the effect of dampness on the wood. The posts are mounted in the case of laying a rough base on a strip foundation or concrete. Since the water table can constantly change in order to protect the logs from water, they deliberately form an underground.

In order to properly strengthen the logs and erect the posts, you should take into account the following points:

1. It is undesirable to build supports from hygroscopic materials - artificial stone or silicate bricks;
2. Do not install posts on loose soils that can be washed out by water;
3. Supports that will be installed on non-flowing soil must be made above the soil level in the underground by at least 2-3 rows of masonry;
4. It is advisable to lay the pillars with a single-row dressing, observing a single height level for all supports;
5. You can attach the bars to the supports using brackets, anchors or special corners with self-tapping screws for concrete.

Corners

Corners - galvanized metal parts with two planes orthogonal to each other. The price of such fasteners is largely determined by the size of the elements themselves, as well as their thickness. The degree of strength of the corners directly depends on the above parameters. In the process of fixing the lag, it is advisable to pay attention to such nuances.

Knows that there are several most common ways to level the floor in an apartment. And one of them is to use adjustable floors. The use of concrete screed is gradually losing popularity. These jobs are labor intensive and also involve dampness and dirt. Moreover, installation of adjustable floors will take much less time.

One worker per day is able to independently lay floors on an area of ​​up to 20 square meters. m. Further we will talk in more detail about the advantages, disadvantages and features of the assembly of adjustable floors.

Design features

To understand what adjustable floors are, you need to familiarize yourself with their principle of operation. The studs rotate around their axis, which allows you to adjust the floor level horizontally. Floors on slabs work on the same principle, which also move due to rotation. This allows you to set the floor as accurately as possible. You can level the floor horizontally almost perfectly.

Such structures will not sag under weight or "play" over time. You can install them on any available surface. Several layers of covering (plywood) can be applied to each floor.

Such floors will be an excellent solution for gyms, clubs, office premises and so on. By strengthening the bearing studs, the load indicator (up to 2 tons per 1 sq. M) can be increased. The lifespan of adjustable floors is up to 15 years.

Features of use

Adjustable floors are most often used:

• At stations and rooms for the location of servers;
• for final finishing as soon as possible;
• In houses of new buildings;
• In houses of old buildings for major repairs or reconstruction;
• To raise the floor level to a sufficient level (especially when additional pressure on the main floor is undesirable);
• When installing multi-level floors;
• For carrying out all kinds of communications under the base of the floor.

If you need to level or raise your floors to a significant level, then using adjustable floors is a great solution. After all, it will take you a month to lay a concrete screed, while you can cope with adjustable floors in one or two days.

Also, the use of such systems is useful in houses where a distance of up to 15 cm was specially left under the floor for laying communications or insulation. Not all structures will be able to withstand the load of such a layer of concrete. But the use of adjustable floors will help you raise the level of coverage up to 20 cm.

You can also successfully, for example, move plumbing fixtures (toilet or bathroom) and hide bulky communications not under a thick layer of mortar, but under the floor, where they will remain accessible at any time.

The use of such systems for country houses or cottages is especially popular. So you are given the opportunity to hide all communications in one place, where they will be reliably protected from exposure and available when needed.

Advantages and disadvantages

As with any similar systems, there are also advantages and disadvantages here.

Advantages:

• One worker can complete the installation of the adjustable floor in one working day;
• The adjustable floor system is light in itself, so it will not be able to put additional pressure on the main floor;
• International tests confirm the quality, strength and durability of such systems;
• Using adjustable floors, you can additionally isolate the room from outside sound;
• You are given the opportunity to use the floor to hide all communications, which is a plus not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also safely collects them in one place;
• Maximum accuracy when setting the horizontal floor level;
• Various levels that can be used in parallel (up to 20 cm);
• Materials used for manufacturing are tested for purity;
• It becomes possible to quickly correct floor irregularities, even with a discrepancy of 10-15 cm;

Disadvantages:

• Adjustable over time. To avoid this, even at the installation stage, it is necessary to remove all dust and dirt after drilling the holes and hammering in the dowels. It is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this. Also thoroughly clean the first floor surface before installing the second layer. Make sure all dowels and nails are fully driven. This will prevent the structure from loosening. It should also be borne in mind that wood is a natural material that breathes and is capable of deforming under the influence of moisture or gravity. Over time, squeaks, one way or another, will appear;
• If you raise the floor level a long distance, then additional sounds will be heard when walking on it. For example, a woman's heels will sound like a drum hit. The installation of additional sound insulation will help to correct the situation.

All your work depends on the quality of the materials used. Pay special attention to their choice. High-quality beams and plywood will save you from the need to dismantle the floor in the future.

For maximum accuracy when leveling the floor, use a laser level.

Take care to provide adequate ventilation under the floor covering.

Types of adjustable floors

Depending on the type of construction, adjustable floors are divided into two groups:

• plates;
• lags.

With the help of adjustable slabs, you can raise the floor to a distance of no more than 3 cm. This is not much, but enough to carry out the necessary communications: telephone, Internet, and so on. You can also install thermal and acoustic insulation materials under these floors.

Such structures are sheets of thick plywood (you can use several layers of it). Special bushings are inserted into it. The peculiarity of these bushings is that they already have a special internal thread. An anchor is threaded into it for an adjustable floor, which will serve as a level regulator. Then the whole structure is installed on the base and fixed with dowels.

As already mentioned, the difference between such a system is that the floor level is adjusted directly through the holes in the plate (from plywood or any other suitable material).

To assemble a floor based on adjustable slabs, just follow our advice:

• Drill holes in the plywood sheet;
• Then insert the bushings into them, on which the thread is pre-screwed from the inside;
• Insert special bolts into the bushings, which will adjust the level of the plate;
• Fix the bolts to the base;
• Turn the bolts until you achieve a perfectly flat floor plane;
• After that, the remnants of the bolts that look out above the surface of the plates must be cut off with a grinder;
• The final assembly step is to lay the next layer of plywood to hide the bolt marks.

Please note that when laying a new floor layer, its seams should not coincide with the seams of the previous one, since this will not be durable.

Adjustable floor joists are the best alternative today. When using such a structure, the floor will be raised by at least 5 cm. This distance can be successfully used to isolate the room from sound or odors, as well as to lay all the main communications of an apartment or house.

Such designs are distinguished by simplicity and speed of assembly, as well as reliability and durability. The lag is equipped with special sockets for installing bolts. It is fixed to a special base with dowels. To change the floor level, just rotate the bolt in the desired direction. After full leveling of the floor plane, a coating is applied to them.

Such floors are often used in new-built buildings of superior comfort, in which all main communications are laid under the floor.

The main advantage of such systems is their strong fixation to a wooden or concrete base. Other materials can also act as a basis. For example, threaded anchors can be installed on concrete slabs, hollow inside, wooden beams using self-tapping screws, as well as on brick surfaces with a concrete screed using special fasteners or to a wooden floor.

To properly assemble such a structure, read our instructions:

• Special racks (bolts) are installed in the nests in the log;
• Now lay out the logs around the perimeter of the room and inside it. Here it is necessary to take into account the required sag strength of the structure, which depends on the type of flooring used. For example, the distance between the lags should be about half a meter. If you will be using floor tiles, then maintain a distance of no more than 30 cm. To ensure the necessary air circulation, step back one centimeter from the walls;
• Then, through the holes provided in the logs, drill holes in the floor for installing the bolts. Their depth should not exceed 4 cm;
• Next, you have to set the floor covering to the required level. Please note that the side difference should not exceed 1 mm. For adjustment, use a special key that turns the bolts;
• After exposing the floor, hammer in the protruding parts of the dowels or cut them off with a grinder or chisel.

Next, the installation of the flooring is carried out. First, use two layers of waterproof plywood. Attach the first layer with self-tapping screws directly to the joists. The next layer of plywood should be installed with a slight deviation from the first so that the joints do not coincide. When using floor tiles, it is better to use waterproof drywall as the second layer.

Use skirting boards to hide irregularities and gaps between flooring and walls. Experts in some cases recommend installing them after all finishing work.

As you can see, an adjustable floor with studs or slabs is a pretty good alternative to a conventional concrete screed. Moreover, to install such a structure, you do not need to have special construction skills. You just need to be patient and do everything according to the instructions. If you have ever encountered the problem of installing such systems, share your comments under this article.