How to make a stove from a waste incineration barrel in the country. Oven from a barrel: a simple option for organizing heating in utility rooms Oven from a barrel with wood

Homemade stove from a metal 200 liter barrel: drawings, stove diagram, photo and video. The barrel stove can be used to heat garages, workrooms, greenhouses and other areas.

A standard metal 200 liter barrel has a height of 860 mm, a diameter of 590 mm and a weight of 20 - 26 kg.

The dimensions of the barrel are almost ideal for making a stove from it, the only caveat is the thin walls of the barrel 1 - 1.5 mm, which will quickly burn out from high temperature... Alternatively, the firebox can be lined with refractory bricks from the inside.

To make a furnace you will need:

Two 200 liter barrels.
Oven door.
Grizzlies.
Sheet metal, corners and rods.
Chimney pipe.
Refractory bricks.

Grinder with cut-off wheel.
Welding machine.
Electric drill.

Stove from a 200 liter barrel: diagram.

Using a grinder, we cut off the top of the barrel and cut out a side opening for the furnace door.

Using a welding machine, we weld the furnace door to the barrel. At a height of 20 cm from the bottom of the barrel, we install grate bars for ash.

A separate door can be made for the ash pan; by opening it slightly, you can adjust the traction force in the oven.

So that the metal walls of the barrel do not burn out over time, you need to lay out inner surface fireboxes with refractory bricks. To fit the bricks more tightly, we saw them off with a grinder.

For laying the labyrinth of the chimney, you need to weld the crossbeam from the corners under the bricks.

The bricks are laid out on the oven mortar. The composition of the kiln solution is 1 part clay to 2 parts sand, the mixture is kneaded with a minimum amount of water to a very thick consistency.

The thickness of the masonry joints should not exceed 5 mm.

To increase the heat transfer of the furnace, you can install another barrel on top. Under the chimney, you need to make a hole in the barrel and weld a piece of pipe under the chimney.

The chimney will have to be periodically cleaned of soot, so it is better to make it collapsible, I recommend reading the article on how to make a chimney for a stove.

Like any equipment, the Bubafonya oven has both positive and negative sides... Among the advantages, the following are noted:

long burning period;
uncomplicated operating conditions;
simplicity of design;
low cost of fuel raw materials;
cheap components;
availability self-assembly equipment, subject to the availability of skills to work with a welding machine;
easy transportation due to its small size and weight.

The disadvantages include the following points:

Difficulties in maintenance: it is inconvenient to clean the bottom of the tank, remove combustion products, namely soot, ash.
The appearance of condensation on the pipe walls, which leads to a decrease in efficiency.
The classic version of the stove is characterized by insufficient heat accumulation. To correct this moment, you should design an additional water jacket, sheathe the stove with heat-insulating material or make brickwork.
Heating the bottom of the fuel tank requires placing a non-combustible material underneath it or building a small foundation.
The need to arrange ventilation in the room.

So, we examined the main points of operation and characteristics of the Bubafonya oven. Now let's talk about how to make such a model with your own hands.

Materials (edit)

To work, you will need the following elements:

an iron barrel for 200 liters with a sealed bottom for storing fuels and lubricants (fuels and lubricants);
a metal circle (pancake) with a diameter slightly smaller than the corresponding size of the barrel;
metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 5 cm more than the height of the container;
four channels or corners 5-6 cm high, less than the radius of the pancake;
metal chimney pipe with a diameter of 150 mm and a length of 5 m.

The cylindrical container can be bought, donated, or found in a landfill.

We make a stove from a barrel with our own hands

We will divide the entire work into sequential steps.

First, we make the corpus:

1. At the top of the container, remove weld, align the sharp edges. So, we got a cylinder and a lid to it.

2. Using a hammer, bend the edges of the structure inward and the top element outward.

3. Turn the cover over and put it on the cylinder.

4. Using a chisel, cut an opening in the middle of the cover, into which we insert the blower tube. The hole diameter is 102 mm. This is quite enough for the free passage of the rolled metal product.

If the barrel had a plug, the hole needs to be welded. However, some people prefer to leave it, making it possible to control the combustion process: unscrew the plug and look inside.

5. In the upper part of the barrel, cut out an opening where we weld a piece chimney length 25 cm. A shut-off flap must be installed inside the product.

For better rigidity, the edge of the pancake must be bent. So it will not deform when exposed to high temperatures.

In the middle of the circle, you need to cut a hole into which the blower pipe is welded.

Channels are attached from the bottom of the pancake.

The air supply is ready. Now we place it inside the cylinder.

Assembling the structure

In the upper part of the blower tube, an adjusting flap is installed, the diameter of which coincides with the size of the rolled metal product. The threaded stud is welded into the pipe. You need to position it vertically. On the side of the damper, it is required to cut a hole in such a way that the damper, falling on the pin, tightly closes the pipe.

After installing the damper, you need to tighten it with a wing nut. By loosening this element, you can move it. Loosening and tightening the fastener allows you to adjust the ingress of air masses into the furnace.

The last stage is the installation of the cover. Now furnace structure ready for use.

Chimney installation

At the final stage, a channel with a diameter of 150 mm is installed. It is necessary to adhere to this value, otherwise there is a possibility of incomplete removal of combustion products.

A pipe longer than 5 m provides good traction. It should be installed directly next to the oven. It is desirable that it stand on its legs. The lower part of the pipe is welded.

To provide for the drainage of condensate formed in the pipe, a ball valve must be welded under the elbow. It should be noted that the presence of this element is a prerequisite. If the condensation freezes, the weld may burst. In addition, there is a possibility of liquid entering the fuel combustion device.

How to heat properly

When the Bubafonya stove is assembled from the barrel, you can start heating the room. How to do it correctly? It is required to remove the lid, get the device supplying air, and put firewood, but not above the lower edge of the flue elbow. If the logs are placed vertically, they will fit more, and even large firewood will burn to the end.

Put a layer of chips on top, on them - a rag or paper, which you need to lightly pour with kerosene.

After the fuel is loaded, a pancake must be put on the device supplying air, and then the lid from the stove. Next, we open the blower flap, throw inside the pipe supplying air, an ignited rag or paper. It will not be possible to ignite with matches because of the strong thrust extinguishing them.

When the wood burns well, it will crackle. Then it is required to completely close the blower flap, which will provide the unit with long-term combustion.

Download device project

You can in PDF format. The document contains detailed description on how to build a unit with your own hands, as well as several answers to frequently asked questions.

Conclusion

As you can see, the manufacture of the Bubafonya oven is uncomplicated process that everyone can do.

As for the container for the base, the craftsmen use it like an old one gas bottle and a large fire extinguisher. It is important that the walls of the appliance are strong and steel.

Colleagues, here suddenly hands were combed (growing you know where from)!
There is a need to sometimes burn on garden plot a certain amount of combustible waste. Cardboard, twigs, sticks and other rubbish. Use for this purpose brick grill- not comme il faut. A barrel was used before, but it has two drawbacks:
1. Too big a flame, sheaps of sparks and flying away with streams warm air smoldering leaves.
2. Too nervous neighbors who are too stressed by point 1.
I thought about converting an already available 200-liter barrel with a lid into a kind of garden stove for the disposal of various cardboard, branches, sticks and other rubbish. The main idea of the idea consists of the following:
A. Eliminate the howling of neighbors by eliminating the streams of sparks and flying leaves.
B. To put on the site not a burnt barrel, but a decent-looking device.
D. Dispose of combustible fuel with maximum efficiency so that as little ash remains as possible.
At first there were ideas:
I. Make a gas-generating oven (pyrolysis) out of the barrel. But all the models of stoves that I found on the Internet are too tricky to maintain, you need to load them in full, push the firewood with lids, etc. I want to refuse the idea, although I really like it, but I did not find any options for implementation without dust and noise. In principle, there is only one oven option on the network, but it is called differently.
II. Make a vertical oven. There are only two advantages - you can easily run over branches from above, and it will take up little space. But I think the approach is not very interesting.
III. Make a vertical tandoor oven. Cover the inside of the barrel with bricks with chamotte, add pebbles. I want a tandoor, but I sense that there will be problems with efficiency, sparks, and a small volume of the firebox.
IV. Make a horizontal oven with a pipe. If then my hands are combed again, then I'll screw up the tandoor on top.
While I figured out this version of the stove:
Everything seems to be simple. The only thing that fundamentally worries me now is how to make a stove. With or without grate?
Plus the option with a grate - all the ash remains in the furnace, but at the same time the volume of the furnace is slightly reduced and the amount of work is more. If you make a firebox without a grate, then in the lower part of the furnace, I will weld several round holes, air will be sucked through them into the firebox. It is easier to do this, but efficiency may decrease due to the fact that some of the firewood will not be saturated with fresh air and they will not burn out completely. And the soil under the stove will be too saturated with ash, which can negatively affect the plants growing nearby.
Now, in detail on the stove itself. I would be glad to comments:
1. The firebox door will be made in the bottom of the barrel. I plan to cut around the perimeter with a jigsaw with metal files. I would love to cut it out with a grinder, but I don’t know how to cut it in a circle with a grinder and what would be exactly. The lower part is cut flush with the barrel wall, so that it would be convenient to remove ash later. The cut-out part is planted on door hinge and is screwed to the upper part that is not cut out. That is, a small gap will remain around the perimeter of the door, about 1-1.5 mm.
2. The current cover will be put on from the side of the pipe and either clamped with a native clamp (if I can find it), or stupidly welded (if I can not find it). Better, of course, with a clamp, then you can do the cleaning from both sides.
3. What is the height of the pipe?
4. I plan to make the grate from thin reinforcement by cutting it into slices, followed by welding into a mesh.
5. At what height should the grate be made? (if you do it at all?)
6. What ratio should be between the diameter ( throughput pipes) and intake holes fresh air outside? 1 to 1? Or should the fence be counted less to compensate for the leakage due to leakage?
7. Welding the metal of the barrel with the trestle or something else (suddenly it will be needed), given the thickness of the metal of the barrel ~ 1-1.5mm? I have not cooked this thickness yet. There will be no holes? Or is it better not to risk it and rely on threaded connections and the force of gravity?
8. I plan to paint the outside of the oven with heat-resistant paint. There are options up to 600 degrees based on silica for adequate money. But, interestingly, to paint inside, or not? The purpose of painting is to give an aesthetic appearance and protect against increased corrosion.

For the happy owners of summer cottages, a stove from a 200 liter barrel is a panacea for many troubles that await them in housekeeping in difficult climatic conditions Russia. It can be used to heat the greenhouse and utility rooms, burn leaves and other debris, fumigate trees in case of frost, and kindle a bath.

The main advantage is that such a stove is made from a barrel with your own hands. This does not require special knowledge and large financial costs. Its other advantages are:

the use of an improvised solid fuel - firewood, wood chips, sawdust, brushwood, etc.;
small size and weight, mobility;
simplicity and reliability of work.

The furnace from a 200 l barrel has disadvantages that you need to know for safe operation:

the need for periodic ash and ash removal, cleaning the boiler from soot;
low heat accumulation;
a non-combustible base or pedestal is required, distance from the walls at a safe distance;
the need for a high chimney pipe to provide traction;
periodic monitoring of the combustion process due to the possibility reverse thrust and smoke pollution of the room.

Do-it-yourself oven from a 200 liter barrel for various purposes in the garden

Consider how you can make a stove from a 200 liter barrel with your own hands for various purposes in a summer cottage or garden plot.

Bubafonya - oven from a barrel long burning... It is a top burning stove, where the loaded solid fuel burns gradually from top to bottom, pressed down by a piston with a descending pipe for air supply. Due to the restriction of air access, combustion occurs for a long time. Pyrolysis gases, burning out above the piston surface, heat the body and go outside through the chimney.

A stove is made from a barrel of 200 liters, which is usually used for storing fuels and lubricants or paint. An empty iron barrel can be bought in warehouses, metal warehouses, or found in a landfill. In addition to it, you will need:

a metal circle for a piston with a diameter of several centimeters less than the inner diameter of the barrel;
metal corner 5-6 cm wide on the base of the piston and legs;
an iron pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, a length of 5 cm higher than the height of the barrel, which serves to supply air and is at the same time a guiding piston rod;
5-meter metal chimney pipe and a tee with a diameter of 15 cm.

Do-it-yourself stove from a balloon

Manufacturing of the case:

The top of the barrel must be carefully dismantled, knocking down the weld. The drain hole with the screw plug can be welded or left for use as a sight glass.
Align sharp edges by bending the edges of the cylinder inward around the circumference.
Align the edge of the cover in the same way, bending its edges outward with a hammer. As a result, the cover should overlap tightly over the edges of the cylinder.
In the center of the cover, cut a hole with a diameter of 10.2 cm for free passage of the rod-pipe.
In the upper part of the lateral surface of the cylinder, cut a hole with a diameter of 15 cm and weld a 25-cm section of the chimney pipe for elbow connection with the chimney.
Make 4 legs from a corner and weld to the bottom of the cylinder for a stable installation of the furnace on a pedestal or a refractory base.

Piston manufacturing:

In the center of the metal circle that serves as the base of the piston, cut a hole into which the supply pipe should fit snugly.
On one side of the pancake, weld 4 pieces of the corner symmetrically and radially from the hole to the outer circumference. They will provide the stiffness of the piston base and the necessary air gap between the piston and the fuel.
WITH back side insert one end of the pipe into the hole and weld hermetically, observing the strict perpendicularity of the two parts.
Put the barrel lid on the pipe and at the other end of the pipe weld a bolt protruding beyond the end of the pipe, on which to fix a freely rotating metal plate that completely covers the hole. It is a damper that regulates the air supply.

Do-it-yourself "long-playing" barrel stove is ready. It remains to install it on a secure pedestal or base and connect it to the chimney.

A chimney pipe with a height of at least 5m is mounted vertically on legs and fixed with braces.

The lower part should be sealed with a removable plug with a ball valve for draining condensate. At the same height as the barrel exhaust pipe, a tee must be welded to connect to the oven. It is possible to connect the tee of the chimney with the outlet of the stove with a metal sheet and clamping clamps.

How can a do-it-yourself stove be used in a garden plot from a barrel

The furnace is kindled as follows:

Dry solid fuel is tightly packed into an empty cylinder to such a height that the upper plane of the piston is below the lower boundary of the chimney hole. Do not allow the laying of wet firewood, which can slow down the movement of the piston during combustion.
On top, put chips, a rag or paper poured with diesel fuel or kerosene, close the lid with a piston.
Open the damper fully, light the curled paper and throw it into the pipe. When the wood is well lit, close the damper, setting the minimum clearance for air intake.

On a home farm, a 200l barrel stove can be used to heat greenhouses, kindle a bath or burn garbage.

Oven from a barrel for a greenhouse, applications

A feature of heating greenhouses is the need for uniform heat supply to large area... This is usually accomplished in the following ways:

Method natural convection

A garden oven from a barrel is installed at the entrance to the greenhouse, and a chimney at the opposite end. A pipe with a slight upward slope runs along the entire greenhouse, connecting the stove to the chimney. Hot gases passing through the pipe heat it along the entire length, and the greenhouse is heated more evenly over the entire area due to the natural convection of warm air.

Bubafony stove

Forced convection method

A do-it-yourself oven made from a barrel is placed in an even larger diameter metal cylinder which is welded from sheet iron. The outer cylinder should have a cut-out to accommodate the chimney elbow of the stove and two holes with a diameter of 10-20 cm, located on opposite sides from the bottom and from the top.

A branch pipe is welded into the lower hole for forced supply of external air with the help of a fan, and a similar branch pipe is welded into the upper hole to remove hot air.

The entire space between the outer cylinder and the inner furnace must be sealed tightly so that all the heated air enters the air duct system, which is distributed over the entire area of the greenhouse.

Do-it-yourself oven for a bath from a barrel, application features

In a 200 liter drum, remove the top cap.
In the side part, cut three holes for standard oven doors for the ash pan, firebox and heater. The hole in the ash pan should be located above the bottom at the height of one layer of brick, above it there is a hole in the firebox, and the hole in the stove should be closer to the top cover of the barrel on the opposite side.
Lay out the bottom and bottom of the barrel up to 60 cm with a thick layer of refractory bricks, forming the volumes of the ash pan and combustion chamber, dividing them with grate bars.
Weld the doors, sealing all the cracks with cement mortar.
Install the grill from metal profiles with a gap of 5-8mm, separating the stove from the firebox, and line the walls with a thin layer of refractory bricks to the top.
Lay granite stones on the grate in several layers, starting with large and ending with small ones. The smoke should pass freely between them. The upper border of the stones should end at the level of the beginning of the door.
Weld the door into the stove, sealing the cracks with cement mortar.
Drill a hole for the chimney in the top cover of the barrel and weld a branch pipe there.
Close and seal the barrel lid. On the side surface of the barrel or on the lid, you can fix the tank for hot water connected to the plumbing system.

The stove is installed in the bath so that the door of the firebox looks into the dressing room, and the door of the heater to the steam room, observing all measures fire safety... It should be heated like a regular potbelly stove, using wood, pellets, coal, etc.

Steam is generated when irrigating heated stones warm water through the heater door.

Waste drum oven

A lot of waste and garbage is always collected on the garden plot, which is expensive to take out.

The best way out of this situation is a garbage oven from a 200 liter barrel, the device of which is the simplest and accessible to everyone.

To do this, you need to remove the top cover of the barrel, and make many holes on the bottom and bottom side of the barrel for air intake.

Place the barrel on a dug ditch or brick base that allows air to flow from below, and light a small fire in the barrel to begin with. Then report the rest of the debris as it ignites. The advantage is that large branches can be laid without additional pruning. It can also be used for fumigation flowering trees in the freeze. Disadvantage - it is required to turn the barrel to remove ash after each use.

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