Do-it-yourself barbecue stove. We make a brazier and a barbecue with our own hands from bricks. The simplest and most inexpensive brick grill with a photo. Simple option without a chimney

When installing a capital brick stove in a summer kitchen, it should be remembered that any stove increases the fire hazard and requires compliance with all construction rules and regulations. This means that for its construction it is necessary to use a special refractory fireclay brick, which is resistant to high temperatures, but at the same time is an excellent heat conductor, quickly warming up the room. It is important to properly ventilate the oven. It is necessary at the stage of building the foundation in the place reserved for the furnace to lay out this zone with bricks. Also, in the future, when erecting a roof, it is imperative to provide for the installation of an exhaust pipe to remove heat and smoke from the space of the working area, etc.

Electric barbecue oven
Gas BBQ oven

Barbecue stove fired with coal
BBQ oven fired with wood

The barbecue oven can be powered by electricity, gas or fired with coal and wood. Outwardly, it is very similar to a fireplace with a combustion chamber, which is usually located at the level of a person's waist. For barbecues, a reinforced foundation is required, and it is also important to properly install a hood through which heat and smoke will be removed.

Barbecue oven with hob in the photo

The barbecue oven can have different configurations - it can include an ordinary hob or oven, grill or barbecue, a tabletop, a place for firewood and storage of dishes. There are such designs that include not only a brazier, but also a tandoor, a cauldron, a smokehouse and other elements.

If you need a multifunctional large barbecue oven, it is better to resort to the help of professionals, but you can easily build a small oven with your own hands.

There are many options for prefabricated barbecues and brick ovens. Focusing on the presented models, you can build something according to your own project. The main thing is to arrange everything correctly in order to minimize the risk of fire, especially when building a stationary brick oven inside the building.

A homemade brick barbecue is a more solid version of a stationary barbecue for arranging a summer kitchen.

Barbecue oven in the photo

It will be a great decoration for it and, of course, will allow you to cook more delicious and varied food. Before you build a brick barbecue, you need to know that it is also called a "barbecue", and in the standard design plan should include three compartments.

Of course, the construction of such a barbecue will cost more, but the meat turns out to be much tastier and healthier on bricks. Durable and high-quality brick is quite expensive, but you can save money by doing all the work on the construction of the barbecue yourself. In this case, the simplest version of a brick barbecue will be described, which is quite capable of building on its own, even without much experience.

The presented version of how to build a brick barbecue with your own hands can be changed using your own dimensions of the parts or by adding some additional functional elements to the structure. You can build a canopy over the barbecue oven to protect it from the rain, and next to it, arrange a dining room under a tree, or install such an oven inside the summer kitchen or outside near it.

In the latter case, all the necessary kitchen utensils, as well as a sink and a refrigerator, will be located in the summer kitchen itself. It is even more convenient to place a barbecue oven outside the summer kitchen - there is less danger of fire, it will not be so hot outside to cook in the oven, and the inside of the summer kitchen will also be cool, unless its winter use is planned - then, of course, the oven is installed inside ...

First you need to choose a convenient place for your barbecue oven. If it will be arranged outside, it is necessary that the distance from the stove to the house or kitchen is not large, since during the preparation of the dish you will have to constantly bring something from the kitchen - dishes, water, etc.

When choosing a barbecue design, you need to pay attention to the style that is most suitable for the architecture of all buildings on the site. It is imperative to determine in advance the size and design of the stove, where it will be located (in an open space or inside a summer kitchen), what kind of foundation is required for it (depending on the constituent parts of the structure).

Also, at the preparatory stage, it is necessary to think over the lining of the furnace, take into account the shape and height of the chimney, whether the stove will be additionally equipped with an oven or a smokehouse, what kind of fuel is planned to be used (coal, firewood, electricity, gas).

There are really many questions - is it required to build a canopy that protects the stove from rain, the presence of an additional table and wind protection. And also, what kind of facing material will be used, should a heat reflector and a charcoal pan be installed, what will be the design of a spit, grate or brazier, will there be cast iron inserts.

All this must be thought out in advance and then it is imperative to draw a general view of the barbecue with a drawing of individual details and an indication of their sizes. You should also find a place to place the shelves in advance, as they should fit well with the appearance of the barbecue. It is also necessary to provide a place for storing dishes and stocks of coal or firewood.

Grill for barbecue oven
Grill for barbecue oven

When drawing up a barbecue plan, first of all, it is necessary to take into account that the structure must be stable. It is also important to properly position the barbecue (roast). It should be at such a height that it is as convenient as possible to prepare food. Usually the grill is installed at a height of 9-10 rows of brickwork.

If the grate is too low, you will have to bend over while cooking, which is very inconvenient. And if you put the grate too high, you will have to stretch high, and at the same time your face will constantly be close to burning coals.

The grate and charcoal tray must be installed on brick ledges or metal rods. They must be removable, since they must be periodically cleaned from rust, and stored in the house for the winter.

For barbecues, you can use a regular cooker grate. It should be borne in mind that it must be larger than the hearth with burning coals, so that ready-made barbecues can be moved to the side next to the hearth, but at the same time keep them hot. The roasting rack must be protected from the wind. There should be another grate under it, with smaller cells, on which burning coals will be located, and under it a pallet into which burnt coals will fall.

See how to equip a brick barbecue with your own hands in the video, where all types of production elements are presented and tips from the masters are given:

Diy brick barbecue scheme, laying and ordering

Bricklaying a barbecue consists of several stages - choosing a location, drawing up a barbecue plan, building a foundation, erecting brickwork with the installation of all structural details, pipe construction, cladding and design of the structure.

To lay a brick barbecue with your own hands with three compartments, you will need the following materials and tools:

sand;
cement;
gravel;
reinforcing mesh;
brick;
ceramic tile;
Master OK.

Currently, you can buy ready-made kits for arranging a barbecue oven. The standard set includes the actual barbecue grill, charcoal tray and fasteners. These kits can be used when building a brick barbecue with your own hands.

What will be the foundation of the furnace depends on its size. Diy brick barbecue scheme allows that you can make a concrete strip foundation, and for a more massive structure you will need a tiled one.

The foundation completely freezes in about 2 weeks after pouring the concrete, and only after that you can start building the barbecue directly.

First, you need to lay 2 layers of roofing material on top of the foundation to protect the structure from moisture, after which you can start laying the brick oven. In this case, a variant of a standard barbecue is considered, consisting of three compartments. The brick will have to lay out a figure in the shape of the letter "W" with 4 partitions. What kind of a brick barbecue will turn out, the order and diagram can be shown in advance, upon careful consideration of the barbecue construction plan.

The rows must be laid out in a certain sequence - each next row should be shifted in relation to the previous one in a checkerboard pattern. This is the so-called half-brick masonry, which should provide the necessary bundle of brickwork. Even before laying, you need to pull the cords indicating the position of the future barbecue wall, and apply a layer of mortar using a trowel. This must be done along one of the walls. Then, small grooves should be made in the mortar and start laying the first row of bricks, checking it with a horizontal level.

In total, you will need to lay out 8 such rows. If you plan to place a sink in the 3rd compartment, you need to leave a hole for the drain in the 6th row.

First, it is necessary to build floors that unite two adjacent compartments of the future structure. To do this, you need to cut off the metal corners of the required length and put them on top, and then make the same, but already a continuous overlap of bricks in one row. For laying the 2nd layer, it is imperative to use a heat-resistant clay mixture intended for stoves and braziers, since it is impossible to make a reliable brazier on cement alone.

STEP # 1
STEP # 2

STEP # 3
STEP # 4

STEP # 5
STEP # 6

The most difficult stage of work is the laying of the oven itself. It can be an ordinary rectangular direct-flow oven without a blower. The thickness of its back wall should be three bricks. Leave space for the door at the front. On the side where the stove will be adjacent to the brazier, you should leave a hole in two bricks.

Protrusions must be made for the roasting rack and charcoal tray. When building a brick barbecue with your own hands, order is very important. When laying the 5th row, you need to form a support ledge, and then lay the 6th row of bricks across - the entire row of bricks should protrude from one and the other side of the wall. The next three rows must again be put in half a brick. In this way, protrusions for the grate and tray are formed.

Sometimes it happens that there is no pallet of the required size that would fit the width of the brick protrusions, and then a metal shelf can be used to support it.

Then, on the 10th row, you need to build another ledge and add three more rows on top using the spoon-dressing method - this is the end of the main part of the barbecue.

If metal rods are used in the oven to support the barbecue, then during laying between the 6th and 7th rows, these metal rods must be laid out in all three walls. This should be done in such a way that the rods protrude from the walls by 70-75 mm and a grate with a pallet can be installed on them.

The rods must continue to be laid up to the 10th row in each subsequent row. This is required in order to set the roasting rack at the required height.

After that, it remains only to lay out a rectangular brazier and make a pipe of any shape. This ordering of a brick barbecue is used in all such structures without exception.

It is also necessary to arrange a barbecue work surface. The simplest way is to build a low brick wall - 6 rows high.

This building must be done on a separate strip foundation, which is poured parallel to the side walls. Such a small wall is called a skirting board. You need to lay it out so that the brick goes down with a jab.

After that, you need to cut out a plywood sheet and lay it between the side wall protrusion and the skirting wall. Boards should be laid on the sheet and covered with tiles or ceramic tiles. Even ordinary paving slabs can be used to cover the work surface.

Master's tips
After completing the construction of the barbecue and its working surface, it is necessary to start processing all the seams. For this, a cement mortar is used, which must be filled in all the seams and rubbed thoroughly. Before the mortar hardens, it is necessary to line the seams with jointing to give them a roundness. If the master does not have a jointing line at his disposal, you can do it using a regular garden hose cutter.

If the plinth wall will connect with the main structure, then up to the sixth row, the structure must be built in the form of the letter "E", and then continue laying the side and rear walls of the barbecue itself. As a result, a niche is formed under the grate with a pallet, which can then be used to store charcoal or firewood. If this opening is equipped with a door with a handle, it will be quite possible to store dishes here.

On this, the main functional part of the stove will be built, and then the structure can be supplemented with various shelves and other elements at will, decorated at your discretion, etc.

The built furnace must "settle" for several days for the complete hardening of the solution. If you make a fire in it until the solution is completely dry, its walls may crack.

In the future, when using the oven, it is necessary to clean the barbecue after each cooking so that dirt and grease do not accumulate, otherwise you will have to thoroughly clean the oven in the future.

Do-it-yourself construction of a barbecue oven with a brick brazier (with photo)

The construction of a brick barbecue is not necessarily always associated with the monolithic erection of all structures. You can build a brick barbecue oven with your own hands in the so-called temporary version. This is convenient if there is no place to build a permanent, stationary structure. If necessary, such a stove can be disassembled and folded for storage in a specially designated place, and then reassembled. This is easy to do, since such a furnace is built without the use of cement or clay mortar. This is the cheapest and fastest building brick barbecue structure. At the same time, it is very effective, because the bricks laid without mortar freely pass oxygen, which contributes to the better and complete combustion of charcoal.

The shape of such a barbecue can be rectangular.
The shape of such a barbecue can be round

Meat, fish, vegetables, cooked by hand in a barbecue oven, have an impressive taste and special aroma. It is not difficult to lay out a barbecue oven, observing the necessary technology of oven work. We have prepared for you detailed instructions with drawings and ordering so that you can fold it yourself.

E. Gudkova's barbecue oven combines two functions well in one design - a barbecue grill and a hob with a hob.

Foundation

Materials (edit)

The main materials for a monolithic slab are: concrete, reinforcing mesh.

For the construction of the foundation, it is enough to use concrete for compressive strength B15 (M200). You can prepare it, observing the proportion:

Cement M 400 - 1 part.
Crushed stone or gravel, the size of which should be less than 30 mm - 4 parts.
Sand - 2 parts.

Impurities in the sand of clay, organic particles, mica, as well as dusty inclusions should be no more than 10% of its volume. In a coarse aggregate (gravel, crushed stone), the amount of impurities that reduce the strength properties of concrete should be less than 2%.

Consumption of concrete components by weight per 1 m 3:

cement - 325 kg;
sand - 1300 kg;
crushed stone - 1300 kg;
water 205 kg.

Armature

For the reinforcement of the foundation, a mesh is taken from class AIII reinforcement

The size of the foundation is taken to be 10 cm larger than the furnace size from each edge. If the furnace has a size of 1400x1000 mm, then the foundation will be 1600x1200 mm.

Instruments

probe (for compacting concrete);
rammer (narrow), protected by metal;
rammer (round) with two handles;
rammer (square), upholstered with metal from below;
trowel (for leveling concrete);
scraper (for removing cement laitance);
half-grater;
board (for smoothing concrete);
trowel;
shovel - straight cutting part;
shovel - pointed lower part;
mortar shovel.

Laying concrete mix

A properly selected and made foundation is a guarantee of the strength and durability of the entire structure. It is very important here to know what kind of soil will become the basis for the stove. A sufficiently dense soil may well support the structure of the barbecue oven. But there are pitfalls here that you need to be aware of.

There are soils that can change their volume due to soaking or a drop in temperature. These are swelling clayey, subsiding loess and with a content of soluble salts, water-saturated (ice increases the volume of the soil when freezing), with particles of biological origin (peat), etc. These soils require special measures to strengthen them.

The marking of the future foundation can be done by pulling the string over the pegs. The size of the pit for the sand cushion is taken according to the size of the foundation slab (160x120 cm). Since the barbecue oven will be located outside, the soil will be frozen and thawed in winter. Depending on the type of soil, the depth of the sand cushion can be up to 1000 mm.

Filling the pit with sand must be carried out in layers (15 cm) with tamping, or with pouring water to seal. Before laying the sand, you can lay geotextiles on the ground, which allows water to pass through, but prevents the sand from being washed out by groundwater.

Waterproofing from 2 layers of roofing material should be laid on the sandy pillow. This will protect the concrete from water in the ground and keep the uncured concrete mix from flowing into the sand.

Formwork boards are used of coniferous and hardwoods with a thickness of at least 2 cm and no wider than 15 cm. The racks, to which formwork boards will be attached in the future, are driven into the ground after 50 cm, and then reinforced with struts. Before you start placing the concrete mix, you need to clean the formwork from dirt and moisten it.

Next, the reinforcement is installed in the formwork. Reinforcement meshes with the help of vertical rods are tied into a volumetric frame, taking into account the distance between them and the size of the protective layer of the working reinforcement - 2 cm.

It is advisable to do concreting at a time. This will ensure that the concrete cures at the same time. Also, one should not forget about tamping the concrete mixture to remove the formed air bubbles and compact the concrete.

To maintain the moisture conditions necessary for the normal hardening of concrete, it is covered with a damp burlap, tarpaulin or other similar material. You can pour a layer of wet sawdust or sand on its surface 3 hours after pouring concrete, which is periodically moistened (5 times a day). This mode is maintained for 7-14 days until the concrete reaches 50-70% of its strength.

Important! At an outside air temperature below +5 ° C, fresh concrete must be insulated to maintain a uniform setting mode.

The formwork can be removed when the concrete has reached at least 50% strength. In days it will depend on the air temperature:

+5 ° С - 12 days;
+10 ° С - 8 days;
+15 ° С - 7 days;
+20 ° С - 6 days.

In any case, the hardness of the corners and surface of the structure will be an indicator for the possibility of removing the formwork. It is possible to start work on the construction of a barbecue oven only after 2 weeks, taking into account the air temperature.

Gudkov's barbecue oven body

Materials (edit)

Refractory brick (chamotte) GOST 390-96.
Clay brick, standard GOST 530-2012.

The furnace body is laid out of either refractory bricks or ceramic (necessarily full-bodied). Refractory bricks can withstand 1300 ° C and more. Ordinary clay bricks must be well fired. Unfired, hollow, silicate, and cracked bricks are not suitable for oven masonry.

The oven will need bricks - 465 pcs.

Furnace appliances:

single-plate cooking hob 420x500 mm;
brazier grill 420x500 mm;
metal sheet 500x600 mm;
cleaning door 140x140 mm;
blower door 270x140 mm;
furnace door 250x270 mm;
grate 300x200 mm;
steel corner 32x32x4 mm, length 500 mm - 4 pieces, 600 mm - 6 pieces;
steel wire 2 mm - 10 m;
asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m.

Clay-sand mortar

For furnace work, mainly plastic, most often red clay and fine sifted sand are used. The required proportion of the composition of the solution is taken based on the fat content of the clay. Fat content depends on the percentage of sand in it:

fatty - 2-4%;
medium - 15%;
skinny - 30%.

The composition of the solution (clay, sand):

fatty - 1: 2.5;
medium - 1: 1.5;
skinny - 1: 1.

Important! Before starting work, the clay is soaked for a day, and then, gradually stirring, a little sand is added.

You can also buy ready-made mortar mix for oven work. Such mixtures withstand high temperatures and will significantly reduce the time required to prepare the solution.

Stove-maker's tool

Stove masonry is the same brickwork, so basically the tool for it is almost the same.

1 - pickaxe; 2 - trowels; 3 - mallet; 4 - jointing; 5 - plumb line; 6 - level; 7 - square

Garden combi oven body

Work on the construction of the furnace body must be carried out only if there is at least a temporary canopy over it. For the convenience of work, you can lay out the case first dry, picking up a brick.

Important! Do not lay the chipped side of the brick inside the firebox or chimney.

Before laying, the clay brick is moistened for 1-2 minutes. dropping into the water. Fireclay bricks are only rinsed to remove dust. The thickness of the seam for clay bricks should be less than 5 mm, and for fireclay bricks - 3 mm.

During the production of furnace work, it is necessary to observe strict horizontal surfaces of each row and vertical corners. The ligation of the seams should be 1/2 brick.

All stove appliances are installed simultaneously with the masonry work. Metal and brick have different values of linear expansion, therefore, all metal elements of the furnace are installed with a gap of 3-5 mm, then this gap is filled with an asbestos cord.

Steel wire is attached to the oven doors for embedding it in the masonry.

Ordering

You can install a cast-iron cooking stove, or you can also install a brazier grill if you wish.

When arranging the vault over the hob, the brick is installed on steel corners. Also, a grill or a cast-iron stove is laid on the corners. The chimney channel for a garden barbecue oven can be made 270x140 mm, 270x270 mm, as well as 400x140 mm. The inner wall of the chimney must be plastered so that it is even and does not allow soot to accumulate in irregularities.

For fire safety, a barbecue oven is installed at least 7 m from the walls of the house. The decoration of such a stove is chosen according to the taste of the owner. This can be jointing, plastering or tiling.

Drying the oven is carried out carefully, without haste. It is heated with a small amount of fuel for 3-8 days.

Any outdoor celebration is hardly complete without deliciously cooked food on the fire, which saturates it with the energy of nature. And a hand-made oven will embody any recipes of a hospitable host.

At the summer cottage. As a result, picnics and various gatherings with friends will become much more pleasant. In addition, such a structure will perfectly fit into any garden interior. Before you get started, you need to read the step-by-step instructions, which will give you an idea of how a barbecue maker can be made of bricks with your own hands.

Preparatory stage

At the initial stage, it is important to make drawings of the future design. The advantage of a competent drawing is that it will not only allow the owner to do the job correctly, but also provide an opportunity to calculate the amount of building materials.

Since there is no universal drawing on how to build a barbecue, you can draw it yourself or use the diagrams at the end of the article.

Drawing nuances

The height of the grill should be at least 70 cm. This parameter depends on the individual characteristics of the owner who will cook on it.
The oven must be placed 10 cm below the grill level.
When designing a structure, it is important to take into account all the little things, so that later it would be convenient to work. For example, where you can place tongs, coals.

Choosing a place

In order for a brick barbecue to be in perfect harmony with the interior of the site and be fireproof, it is important to carefully consider the place for its construction.

There should be no dry branches or old trees on the site near the structure, which may be subject to fire.
The stove must be located away from outbuildings.
It is important to take into account the direction of the wind during construction - it should not blow towards the buildings located on the site.
It is not recommended to build a stove near playgrounds, greenhouses and gazebos.

Laying the foundation

You can give preference to an inexpensive option and use a strip monolithic foundation under the barbecue grill. In this case, it is not necessary to deepen it.

Having outlined the boundaries of the structure under construction, you need to dig a trench along the markings, up to 40 cm deep.
The bottom of the trench is covered with a mixture of sand and gravel. It needs to be poured with water and tamped.
Now you need to lay the reinforcement rods in the form of a mesh.
Formwork is manufactured and installed.
Concrete is poured.
It remains to wait for the concrete to set.

After the concrete dries, the foundation must be covered with roofing material, which will serve as waterproofing.

Construction construction

Choosing a brick

Before making such a structure, you should purchase facing and refractory bricks in the required quantity. Among the various types of material, it is worth giving preference to fireclay bricks, from which furnaces are built. It can withstand high temperatures perfectly.

How to make a solution

A solution is prepared using red clay, sand, water and cement. The required amount of clay is poured with water in advance and allowed to stand for about five days. Knead the clay with water, achieving a homogeneous mass. After that, you need to pour a little sand and cement into the solution (you can brand M200, at the rate of 1 liter can per bucket of solution). Everything is thoroughly kneaded.

Clay is an important component when laying fireclay bricks. A solution is made from it. For facing the structure, you will need a cement-sand mortar.

To lay a thousand bricks, you will need 3 buckets of clay mortar. To increase the strength of the clay, you can add ½ cup of common salt to a glass of the prepared mixture. An alternative would be 0.5 kg of cement per bucket of mortar. The finished solution should look like thick homemade sour cream and fit perfectly on a brick.

Instructions step by step

To understand , how to make a barbecue, you need to follow the recommendations of experts.

We build a pedestal, stove and firebox

Ideally, the pedestal should contain a woodpile, which would accommodate firewood for at least three fireboxes. For work, you need a facing brick.

After the previous stage of work has been completed, you can start building the stove. The work is easy to do. It is worth remembering that in conclusion, you need to make facing masonry.

It is very important to withstand breaks every 4 rows so that the walls dry out a little and the brick does not shift.

To erect an arch, you need to make a template from durable plywood that would support the structure. If there is a desire to build a rectangular opening, put a jumper from the corner on the last row of bricks. Further, the laying is performed along the entire perimeter. It is important to remember that the arch vault must contain a central brick, the function of which is to provide the bearing capacity of the structure.

The height of the wall with an arched opening can be up to 80 cm.

About the pipe

For the construction of the chimney, fireclay bricks and clay mortar are used. A valve must be made inside the pipe. In the process of laying bricks, the sides of the firebox are gradually shortened. For each subsequent row of the back and front walls, the length should be reduced by a quarter of a brick. In this case, the side is reduced by half the width of the brick. Having formed the pipe, it is necessary to lay it out directly in 12-15 rows.

It is necessary to allow the masonry to freeze. In conclusion, the barbecue grill is tiled.

Video

Watch a video on building a brick barbecue.

If you are going to build a barbecue in the country or in the courtyard of a private house, then the instructions outlined here will be the perfect solution. There is a lot of theoretical information and schematic drawings and pictures on the Web, and there is not enough to clearly illustrate the whole process of laying a barbecue from bricks from A to Z.

Consider the construction of a brick barbecue using a specific example (in practice). The technology was described at the forum "House and Dacha" by a professional stove-maker Anatoly from Chelyabinsk. Judging by the reviews and photos of the results of the laying of the barbecue complex, the skill of this person commands respect.

Brick BBQ masonry

Below is a master class on laying a brick barbecue with a step-by-step photo report.

For example, an extension of a barbecue to a blank wall of a brick gazebo will be carried out.

The barbecue is laid on a concrete base (reinforced slab, 30 cm thick). Please note that a waterproofing layer is first made under the barbecue oven (2 sheets of roofing material are cut to size).

A cement-based refractory mixture "Hercules" is used as a mortar for brickwork.

Expert advice: if you use a clay solution, then 200-250 gr can be added to a bucket of clay-sand mixture. cement M400.

Refractory fireclay bricks are used for construction. Specifically, for this design, a barbecue will need about 1200 pieces.

Masonry joint thickness:

for the heat-resistant mixture "Hercules" - 5-7 mm;
for oven mixture "Martel" - 3-5 mm.

Brick cutting:

Chamfering from a brick (cutting the edge, done to give the brick a decorative effect) - a tile cutter with a 180 mm diamond disc is used

Brick cutting - done with a grinder with a 230 mm diamond blade

Before a sharp fireclay brick is soaked for 5-10 minutes, a red oven brick - from 20 minutes (the lower the grade, the shorter the soaking time). For chamfering (edge), the brick is only wetted.

Do-it-yourself brick barbecue ordering

The first row is half-brick (the so-called flask) and the second is made of whole bricks (the edge is lined with cut bricks).

Ladder is a special thin brick, in the example, fireclay brick is used, cut in half

Arched (bow) lintel made of brick

The photo shows how to make a support arc - a circle along which a brick vault will be laid out.

Material prepared for the site site

In this case, the width of the openings is 71.5 cm, therefore, boards are taken for making a circle with a length of 71 cm. There are formulas for calculating the radius of the arch, but the master determines by simple markings using a thread.

It is necessary to find an axis, for this, 14.5 cm is measured, and 2 cm are left at the edges. The numbers may be different, it is important that the highest point of the circle is at least 1/8 of the width of the furnace opening.

A rule or an even bar is applied to the board (the task is thus to simulate the continuation of the axis). As a result, we have 3 points. With a pencil, fixed on a thread, draw an arc. With an electric jigsaw, we cut out the circles, along which we outline 2 more boards and cut out two more circles.

The bricks are applied to the circle and the points of contact that need to be cut are determined. Marking is applied to each brick and corners are cut with the help of a grinder.

The circle is installed in the opening and the heel (support) bricks are cut in place.

The assembly is carried out from the edges to the middle. At the end, a castle brick is inserted.

Marking the height of the bricks. Bricks with wedges under the seams are placed on the circle, and a line is drawn with the help of a level to cut the bricks in height.

An example of fitting a brick of a corner joint (trimming done with a grinder)

Corner overlap device

External layout (contour styling)

Finished worktop with dismantled circles

BBQ firebox (furnace part masonry)

The first row of the firebox (in this case, a simple dressing scheme is used, this is applicable only for wall-mounted barbecues, for detached ones it is more complicated)

Pallet installation

At this stage, cuts are made, which will serve as guides for the frame. The frame will be used for laying the net or skewers.

Smoke box construction

Barbecue chimney construction

Conclusion

Naturally, the above shows the work of a professional stove-maker, however, if desired, you can achieve a similar result. Hopefully this guide will help you build a brick barbecue without the hired labor.

How to build an outdoor stove with your own hands is a topical issue both for residents of non-gasified regions and for residents of completely civilized places. The first ones are interested in the opportunity to cook food in the warm season on waste fuel (dead wood, dead wood, building chips) - the brownie on the summer run does not differ in efficiency, and it becomes very hot in the house during the preparation of lunch. The second is the opportunity to sit at the dacha or on your site by the light in the gazebo or on the lawn in the recreation area, at the same time preparing barbecue or barbecue ribs, without laying out a mind-boggling sum for a turnkey branded garden stove. Both are also attracted by the opportunity to receive home-smoked meats, knowingly not falsified and much cheaper than purchased ones.

Which one to build?

Let's see for a start what kind of stove it is possible to build on the street, taking into account the fact that it will not be heated intensively and irregularly, but it will be exposed to climatic influences, freeze in winter, and it will be difficult to supply it with a high chimney. But the danger from the spread of carbon monoxide from an outdoor stove is reduced to the minimum possible, although it is not completely eliminated, especially in a gazebo, under a canopy and in calm weather. Do not forget about this: there is no stove that could be fired at random without fear of burning. You can get burned, and just sitting by the fire.

Bearing in mind these circumstances, the choice of the design of the oven for the street is not so wide. The simplest garden stove is the well-known stove - rough or rough. She can look terrifying, pos. 1 in the figure, but it can be drowned with anything combustible and it works properly almost regardless of the quality of the materials used and work: when building a rough one, you can use a simple red working brick or stones from the surrounding area on an ordinary cement-sand masonry mortar, i.e. .To. microcracks in the masonry have almost no effect on the technical performance of this oven. See, for example, below the video, how a 5-year-old child built a rough stove, which his family uses successfully and on which, moreover, you can smoke. Which, by the way, is not possible with every oven, see below.

Video: simple oven-rough, child-friendly design

An outdoor stove in a weekend cottage is often a barbecue brazier, pos. 2. Although, as we will see later, in fact, this is not a barbecue at all. Bricks for such a stove take about the same amount or less as for a rough one (about 200 pcs.), And in the same way you can use a red working brick, but the masonry mortar, in view of, so to speak, the slenderness of the structure, is already needed for a stove for the street (see . further, about technology and materials).

On the basis of the brazier, the so-called. Finnish outdoor brick oven, which is a hearth, brazier or brazier attached to a rough stove, pos. 3. In fact, the only thing Finnish in such a furnace is that the Finns were the first to guess to release them in the form of a set - building instructions with detailed instructions and procedures, dry mix for preparing masonry mortar, embedded parts, fittings. Now domestic kits for building an outdoor brick oven are sold in the Russian Federation. Sometimes bricks are included in the set; if necessary - cut / trimmed and numbered. A set for a Finnish street stove is inexpensive, and a completely inexperienced person can even build a stove from it, thanks to which the Finnish outdoor stoves from the set are very popular, see, for example. track. video clip.

Video: Finnish outdoor oven

Note: a stationary smokehouse is also often attached to the wood stove, pos. 4. But in the process of using it is found that in the cooking mode the stove is rather gluttonous, and the quality of smoked meats is obtained from strength slightly above average. Why and how to combine an outdoor oven with a smokehouse, we'll talk further.

Even less often, there is an outdoor fireplace on the plots, pos. 5. The reason is limited functionality: you can admire the flame and cook something like on a simple hearth, although the material and labor intensity of an outdoor fireplace is quite high. The Russian stove is built on the street (pos. 6) even less often. The culinary qualities of products and dishes from a Russian oven are well known, but a small Russian oven needs 2,500 bricks, a large one - 3,500, the design is very complex and it is not easy to protect it from bad weather. For the same reasons, in private households, Neapolitan (item 7) and Sicilian ovens for pizza and pastries are not widely used; in addition, these are rather narrowly specialized devices.

Note: much more attention for giving and outings on picnics deserves the so-called. mobile rocket oven, pos. 8. Rocket furnaces -. Here, we only recall that rocket stoves exist in 2 forms - a luxury item that allows you to get a warm stove at home without building a Russian stove, and a light compact device on which you can quickly cook dinner with a minimum amount of waste fuel. In the latter case, the degree of heating of the cooking utensil is regulated in the same way as in a gas stove.

Cooking issues

In order to make the right stove you like, and before that choose the right design, you need to know exactly what kind of outdoor stove can. Therefore, before the technical and construction aspects will have to be distracted by culinary issues.

Oven or smokehouse?

An oven and a smokehouse are completely different devices. The furnace is required to "squeeze" as much heat as possible from the fuel load and not let it dissipate into space in vain. Therefore, stoves are designed (perhaps intuitively, based on the experience of generations) for the afterburning of fuel to the end products of combustion - carbon dioxide and water vapor.

On the contrary, what is required from it is not high thermal efficiency, but as much smoke as possible. But not just the smoke that eats the eyes. First, the smoke for smoking should ideally be free of unburned particulate matter. The end product should be smoked and not covered with soot. Anyone who has seen how a good industrial smokehouse works, probably noticed that in the area where the product is loaded, smoke is almost invisible there.

Secondly, smoke for smoking should not contain substances harmful to health. It is impossible to organize it chemically when burning fossil fuel, therefore smokehouses are built so that harmful impurities either "slip" past the smoked one, or are neutralized and settle down to it.

There is an important point here: in a temperature range of approx. It is highly undesirable to smoke 35-50 degrees. it is at such temperatures that the probability of acid condensate precipitation is high; it is formed as a result of the interaction of chemically active particles of unburned fuel, the so-called. free radicals, with water vapor and oxygen in the air. An acidified product is not only disgusting in taste, but also hazardous to health. Therefore, a trace is distinguished. types of smoking:

Cold - the temperature in the smokehouse is up to 35 degrees. Preparation of products - salting in brine (saturated sodium chloride solution) and soaking immediately before loading into the smokehouse. Smoking time - from 5-6 days; no breaks are allowed. The taste of the finished product is the highest; keeping quality without the use of means and methods of additional preservation can be calculated for months and years.
Semi-hot (semi-cold) - smoking temperature 60-70 degrees. Food preparation - short soaking in brine. The term for smoking until readiness is 0.5-2 days. The taste is very high; taste and bouquet are similar to those of cold smoked products. Keeping up to a month; usually up to 5 days.
Hot - at a temperature of 85-120 degrees. Food preparation is optional. Smoking time is 1-5 hours. The taste is very high, but the taste and aroma are not the same as those of cold smoked products. Storage life without additional preservation up to 36 hours.

Given the above, we can conclude that, firstly, a smokehouse for an outdoor oven should be a separate device. Any stove is not a smoke generator for smoking and it is impossible to set up the smoking process from the stove only by loading fuel and supplying air to the furnace; you also need to select the length of the flue from the exit from the stove to the smoking chamber. Secondly, a simple stove with a low efficiency and a smoke tooth is best suited for supplying smoke to a smokehouse, see below.

Grill, barbecue and barbecue

Open flames are the enemy of any food you cook. Burning is only a visible and palpable “tip of the iceberg”: exposure to high temperatures on food products causes hydrolysis of fats, breakdown of carbohydrates and deep denaturation of proteins, saturating food with substances that are very harmful to health. In simple solid fuel cooking stoves, direct contact with the flame is avoided in various ways. What they have in common is that the food turns out to be not only baked, but also smoked, which, when properly prepared, improves its taste.

Grill

The hearth stove, which is actually called a classic Anglo-Saxon grill, is shown on the left in Fig. The confusion arose in Canada, where French and English were mixed together. The device of the grill follows from the Anglo-Saxon culinary traditions, the essence of which is exaggerated, but precisely expressed by Stubb from Melville's novel "Moby Dick": "You have to take a piece of meat, show him a slightly smoldering ember from a distance and immediately serve me a steak!" Remember "roast-beef bloody" from "Eugene Onegin"? In restaurants, baked meat is still offered rare - half-baked with blood, medium - baked until soft, juicy like a shish kebab, and well done - crispy in a crispy crust.

Note: suddenly you will be brought to the southwest of the United States, the menu may contain something incomprehensible - hanaban (pronounced hanaban). This is a shish kebab in spices, removed from a skewer, something like an Arab khusal.

The grill is suitable for cooking meat and rare, and medium, and well done. This is achieved by placing the grate with the product at different levels above the brazier with coals. Coals rarely flare up, because are scattered with a thin layer on a blank hearth and air access to them is limited. If they flashed, then the piece is simply pushed aside.

Brazier

Rare meat can be very tasty, but in southern countries, where pathogens of various diseases feel great, and very dangerous. In addition, in many countries of the South, pork is not eaten at all, and rare beef and lamb are tough. Hence follows the design of the barbecue (in the center in the figure): perforated under and partially walls of a deep tray, a thick layer of coals. The meat is heated not only by heat radiation, but also by a stream of hot air.

B-B-Q

In a real French barbecue (oh, those pampered paddies!), Heat is not involved in cooking at all. The design of the barbecue oven turns out to be quite complex (on the right in the figure), but reliable and multifunctional:

Thanks to a separate cooking chamber with a hood, wind and outside temperature have almost no effect on the quality of the finished product.
If you close the chamber portal with a flap cover, as in a Russian oven, the chamber turns into a semi-hot or hot smoked smokehouse.
The oven can be used to bake bread, cook roasts in pots, etc. If it is undesirable to add water to the dish, cook it in a container with a tight lid.
Firewood and dryer are conventional concepts. Here and there you can dry mushrooms, berries, fruits that require different drying modes. Additionally, it is regulated by dampers.

Note: pay attention to the protrusion of the hearth, not completely separating the firebox from the oven. This is the so-called. a smoke tooth or gooseneck is a radical means to reduce the dependence of the technical parameters of any outdoor stove on weather conditions, see below.

Outdoor stove designs

Not just a stove

The simplest outdoor stove is a 2-burner stove with a tunnel firebox, divided by a smoke tooth into a flame (firebox itself) and smoke chambers, diagram on the left in the figure:

Household stoves with a smoke tooth are not made: it reduces the efficiency of the stove and increases the danger of carbon monoxide emission. However, for a summer street stove, both are unimportant, but the smoke tooth is in its firebox:

Reduces the dependence of the furnace mode on the direction and strength of the wind;
Allows you to load low-calorie waste fuel into the furnace;
Allows you to heat water on a small burner in the wind and cold and cook the first course in a tall dish, because at the pass over the jib, a high temperature develops from the flame chamber to the smoke chamber and a large amount of heat is released;
It makes it possible, at a certain furnace mode (see below), to start the oven with a smokehouse, in this case the smoke chamber works as an afterburner of the smoke generator.

The height of the passage between the top of the jib and the hob forming the hob is usually approx. 70 mm. However, the goose needs to be adjusted, which is not difficult: it is laid out in a finished oven made of bricks (you can not hanged) without dressing and even dry. Depending on the ratio of the dimensions of the furnace, the diameter and height of the chimney, the optimal clearance between the smoke tooth and the arch of the stove may be 15-20 mm, as, for example, in the photo on the right. If uniform heating of both burners is required, then the jib is placed not under the back, but between the burners, but in no case under the front - the oven will smoke heavily and will not heat up.

About smokehouses to the oven

Smokehouse diagrams for a 2-burner oven with a smoke tooth are shown on the right on the previous page. rice. The height of each is 1-1.5 m; other sizes can be taken proportionally. Chimney diameter - 130-150 mm. The mesh filter is designed to trap soot and must be cleaned before each load of food. Nevertheless, it is highly desirable to wrap the products loaded into these smokehouses with 3-4 layers of rare gauze.

In all respects, a smoker with a side smoke entrance is better. First, it allows you to produce not only hot, but also semi-hot smoking; the length of the gas duct from the oven to the smokehouse is conveniently regulated by connecting them with a thin-walled metal corrugated hose. Secondly, a regular baking sheet is suitable for collecting fat in it, and in a smokehouse with a bottom supply of smoke, the baking sheet should have an opening with a shell. You can't let the fat drain onto the smokehouse: you can't peel it off with sweat, it smells terribly and transfers its amber to products.

Note: The smokehouse chimney must be fitted with a windshield. To avoid acid dew in the smokehouse, do not smoke in cold, damp and windy weather.

Advanced plate

A 2-burner stove with a smoke chamber does not have to look like a primitive fireplace excavated by archaeologists. It can be multifunctional and technically perfect, i.e. economical. Drawings and ordering of an improved street stove for a summer residence and a country house are shown in Fig. Although its construction is rather complicated for a beginner, it only takes approx. 200 oven bricks.

This design uses a technical solution first used in a Swedish stove: the firebox and smoke chamber are separated by an oven instead of a smoke tooth; the gas tunnel above it is highlighted in red. In such a stove structure, there is no room for a firewood, but instead:

The oven mode stabilizes in almost any weather from early spring to late autumn.
Thermal efficiency - over 65%, like a good cooking and heating oven.
It is possible to use a chimney with a height of only 1.2 m above the level of the hob.
The heating of the cooking zones is almost uniform and strong.
The large smoke chamber is an efficient afterburner, which releases enough heat to heat the hot water tank.
The loss of soot in the smoke chamber when burning with waste fuel is abundant. Therefore, the presence of a cleaning hatch with a door is necessary, but on the other hand, the oven mates with the smokehouse without any problems.
The danger of burning from such a stove is no higher than from a Swedish stove or any other home stove. Therefore, this stove can be used as a brownie for a small room; then, instead of a smokehouse, it is constantly mated with a heating shield.

The laying of the improved outdoor slab is made on clay-cement mortar for outdoor stoves with moisture-resistant cutting of seams, see below. In the smoking mode, this stove is heated from a blower with the firebox door tightly closed. Fuel - shavings or thin splinters (not chips!) Of deciduous tree, except for birch, albeit perfectly healthy. Otherwise, the food will acquire a nasty birch tar flavor. Side exit to the chimney, in addition to the convenience of pairing with the smokehouse, excludes the loss of acid condensate in the oven.

Grill fireplace, barbecue and barbecue

Here in fig. given the order of a simple outdoor fireplace stove, which can be successfully used as a grill; stove bricks are marked in red, fireclay bricks are in orange. A tent over the hearth reduces the dependence of the quality of the prepared food on the weather conditions. Rows 1-12 make up a firewood, its height can be reduced to save material and work. The woodshed is covered with a reinforced concrete or stone slab 40-80 mm thick, on which the actual structure of the furnace is erected (rows 13-35). Row 25 along the façade is supported by a pair of 40 mm steel angle fixings.

On the trail. rice. - ordering an outdoor barbecue oven (more precisely, a grill) with a hob. It is more complicated than the previous one, because arched portal of the furnace (rows 17-22). The arch is laid out in circles, as in the construction of a Russian stove. Such a barbecue oven will cost a lot cheaper than the previous one, because in it there are 8 rows of masonry less and fireclay bricks are not used. However, the possibilities of using this stove as a fireplace are very limited: the steel under the hearth from a regular firebox will burn out pretty soon. It will also not work to cook well done meat in this oven: due to the high thermal conductivity of the steel hearth, the coals will either go out too quickly, or, if you pile them in a thick layer, they will flare up and burn the product.

Finally, on the trail. rice. - a complex, expensive and time-consuming, but multifunctional and effective outdoor brazier oven with a 2-burner hob; yellow indicates clay-sand filling, as between the vault and the stove bench of the Russian stove. The upper smoke threshold (rows 15-20 in section B-B) acts similarly to the smoke tooth of a classic English fireplace. In the niche between it and the portal (highlighted in pink), you can smoke products during other culinary processes: in order for acid condensate to fall out in such a pocket, you need to load the oven in completely disgusting weather with completely disgusting fuel.

Technology issues

Base

Under the foundation of the street oven, they dig a pit on the bayonet of a shovel (30 cm). First, a pile-free sand cushion with a thickness (thickness) of 15 cm is poured into the pit and rammed, and along it - crushed stone backfill to the ground level. The backfill is carefully leveled into the horizon. Removal of the pit sides outside the furnace contour in the plan - from 400 mm.

Further, if the foundation of the furnace is a ready-made concrete monolith, the foundation slab is simply placed on the rubble. If the foundation is poured with your own hands, a formwork with a height of 80-150 mm is made for pouring it. Reinforcement - standard 2-level. Solution - from M250. It is impossible to lay the foundation of the furnace flush with the ground: it will soon become clogged with soil and its "chemistry" will spoil the lower rows of masonry, which is equivalent to re-laying the entire furnace. In order not to stumble over the threshold of the foundation, a gentle blind area is made along its contour of curb stone or cement-sand mortar.

If the stove is built in a gazebo, on a veranda and, in general, on a wooden floor of sufficient bearing capacity, the removal of the base of the stove must be done according to fire safety rules: from 600 mm from the side of the furnace door and from 300 mm on the other sides. Asbestos cardboard from 4 mm thick or basalt mineral cardboard from 6 mm thick is placed on the floor, then a sheet of roofing iron. The iron flooring is moistened with a liquid clay solution, felt or basalt cardboard is laid on it and impregnated with the same solution. The laying of the furnace structure begins when the clay impregnation is completely dry.

Brick

For an outdoor stove, it is precisely a stove brick that is needed: dense, well-annealed. A coarse stove or a 2-burner stove with a smoke tooth, in which the firebox does not heat up much, can be made of red working bricks, incl. hollow - the stove from it warms up faster and loses less heat in vain. Silicate bricks are absolutely unsuitable for stoves, and fireclay masonry in outdoor stoves should be avoided: due to the high moisture absorption of fireclay bricks, it is exposed to frost in the open air in winter.

Note: Why would it be the authors of some publications and the rewriters who are crazy stealing material from them took that the stove can be folded from gas blocks, it is unlikely that the Almighty knows. This is a foamed cement mortar. Under the influence of high temperatures, cement gradually, but rather quickly, loses crystallization water and decomposes into dust.

Masonry mortar and masonry

Ordinary clay oven mortar is unsuitable for outdoor stoves: it will deteriorate during downtime during the spring-autumn storm. Stoves with an unstressed thermal regime (coarse, 2-burner with a smoke chamber) can be laid on a construction cement-sand mortar from M250 (Portland cement from M500: sand 1: 3 - 1: 3.5); in extreme cases, and completely shift them for a short time. Sometimes street stoves in weekend cottages are laid on the same mortar with reinforcement of seams 6-7 mm thick with a steel mesh 3 mm thick. However, with more or less regular use, the stove folded in this way lasts no more than 5-7 years.

To fold a really durable outdoor stove, you will have to buy a dry mortar for laying outdoor stoves and seal it according to the instructions. In general, this is a clay-cement-sand mortar, but the quality of the clay for it must be checked in the laboratory, and the dry mixture must be prepared on production equipment. If you do not mind taking the risk by folding a rough or stove first, a trace is being prepared at home for laying outdoor stoves. way:

White or gray greasy clay is mixed with a large amount of water and left to "sour" for three days;
The first two days the clay solution is periodically stirred, the third day is allowed to settle;
The suspension is poured off, and the clay sediment is squeezed through a sieve with a mesh of 1.5 mm and dried in the shade;
Dry clay is crushed to a fraction not larger than 1.5 mm, and Portland cement M400 or higher is added in an amount of 10-15% of the clay volume;
Make a "sausage" test for the fat content of the clay-cement mixture, as when preparing a masonry oven mortar with your own hands;
Mountain sand with a fraction of 0.5-1.5 mm is added to the dry mixture to the desired fat content. Gully and rounded quartz river sand are not suitable. Only now is the mixture ready for use.

It is necessary to prepare masonry mortar for the oven, from a purchased or homemade mixture, in small portions, in order to work it out in 2-3 hours. clay-cement-sand mortar and dries and stratifies in a bucket. For beginners, it is better to do a bucket of mortar at a time, it will be enough for 100-120 bricks. It is better to apply the mortar to the brick with a palm layer of approx. 3 mm. The squeezed out excess is immediately removed with a finger, and the seams from the outside are cut with a wooden stick to a depth of 4-5 mm for moisture insulation, see below.

Note: the thickness of the joint between fireclay and red oven bricks is 6 mm; the modules of their thermal expansion coefficients (TCR) are different.

Seam protection

Neither cladding with tiles, stone or facing brick, nor plaster with moisture-resistant plaster will completely protect the masonry joints of an outdoor stove from getting wet. A radical way to protect outer joints from moisture appeared only in our time: grouting the joints with glue for porcelain stoneware tiles. The seams are rubbed after the masonry is completely dry (20 days at 15 degrees and 7 at 25). For the period of drying, a temporary canopy is arranged over the oven in order to avoid uneven heating by direct sunlight.

As for the internal seams, to protect them, all openings / openings in the structure of the furnace during the winter downtime are plugged with bags filled with dry grass, rags, etc. So the temperature inside will be at least one degree, but higher than the outside, which will exclude condensation. In the spring, before the first start-up after winter, the oven is quietly heated for an hour or two with paper, shavings, dry grass, until the smoke from the chimney brightens or becomes almost transparent. The furnace can now be started at full speed.

Mortgages and fittings

Metal embedded parts can only be bricked into oven brick masonry; there should be no mortgages in chamotte. The thickness of the mortar layer between the metal and the oven brick is also 3 mm, so that the seam with the embedment will be 6 mm thick + the thickness of the embedded part. Because seams thicker than 13 mm are unacceptable, the maximum thickness of the mortgages in the furnace is 5 mm, and the minimum, according to general building codes, is 4 mm. Wire inserts can be 3 mm thick.

Deformation gaps between brickwork and fittings (doors, dampers, latches, gates) are required 6-12 mm wide. Most often, the gaps are made 10 mm. Expansion gaps are filled with fluffed asbestos; as a rule, for this, an element of the fittings is wrapped around the contour with an asbestos cord before installation. They put the piece of fittings in place as soon as the masonry reaches the level of its bottom; pushing the part into the finished opening is unacceptable! Further, the masonry is carried out, circling the fittings until it closes at the top of it.

In the manuals for the construction of stoves, they write that it is only necessary to fix the fittings in the structure of the stove with wire, because cast iron is not cooked or cooked very poorly. This is true, therefore, in the cast-iron parts of the fittings, eyelets and / or grooves for 3-4 mm wire are provided. The installation of cast iron elements of stove accessories is done in the next. order:

As soon as the masonry is brought to the bottom of the part, the grooves for the wire whiskers are selected in the bricks with a grinder. The width of the grooves is 6 mm. The laying of the mustache in the masonry - from 1.5 bricks, better - 2.5-3.5 bricks. The ends of the wire must not fall on the vertical seams of the masonry!
A wire is threaded into the lower eyes of the asbestos-wrapped fittings, the part is put in place and the laying is continued;
In the last row of masonry in front of the overlapping part, grooves are selected for the upper whiskers of the wire, as in claim 1;
Insert the wire into the upper lugs of the part;
The overlapping row is laid out and the laying is continued.

At the same time, in outdoor stoves, which are heated irregularly and not intensively, fittings made of ordinary structural steel, incl. homemade. This saves a lot of money, because cast iron hardware road. It is quite legitimate to attach steel stove accessories by welding to embedded steel strip or corner.

Chimney

The chimney of an outdoor stove can be either normal (from 4 m) or reduced to 0.6-1 m in height. A reliable chimney for an outdoor stove with an upper outlet must be built at the same time with the structure of the stove, because it is almost impossible to fix a separate one-piece pipe so that it does not loosen the chimney cut in the oven in the wind. It is easier to attach a separate chimney to a stove with a side outlet: the stove outlet is connected to the chimney with a horizontal link - a hog - made of a flexible metal corrugation. This solution also has the advantage that acidic condensate from the chimney will never enter the furnace: it will settle in the chimney sump, from where it can be easily drained through a hatch, faucet or drain hole, usually closed with a screw.

Finally: as you can see, the most difficult task when building an outdoor stove is to protect it from atmospheric precipitation during operation. The best way to solve it, which also makes it possible in many cases to do without the foundation of the stove and makes it possible to use it in any weather, is to build a stove in a gazebo, on a veranda or under a canopy.