Fire Safety Encyclopedia

The optimal insulation for a frame house. What kind of insulation is better for a frame house: an overview of the types and characteristics of thermal insulation materials. Option # 3: Sprayed Polyurethane Foam

Even before starting construction, it is very important to choose a high-quality insulation for a frame house. After all, low-quality material negates all the advantages of an economical design and will not maintain the temperature in the building. It is difficult to choose the best among the variety of market offers. Explore all the options available and compare their advantages and disadvantages.

How to choose insulation

Even a professional builder will not be able to immediately tell which insulation is best for a frame house. The material should correspond to the climatic zone and the type of the house, to match the thickness and cladding of the walls. Some people prefer to sheathe the house with foam, others - with mineral wool or other materials. It is not worth saving on insulation, since without it the wooden house will be cold.

Foam insulation

Polyfoam is a very popular insulation. Thermal insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam has many advantages:

  • rather low material cost;
  • environmental Safety;
  • minimum weight;
  • easy installation;
  • the ability to withstand the effects of moisture without a protective coating;
  • there is no need for additional insulation.

But foam also has its drawbacks, which force many to abandon it, despite the cheapness of this material. It is flammable, has minimal sound insulation and is very fragile.

When choosing foam, you should take into account the density... If you need to sheathe a frame structure with an area of ​​6 sq. meters, you need to purchase 3 cubic meters. m of foam with a thickness of 100 mm.

Mineral wool insulation

Another popular insulation for a frame house is mineral wool. The demand for it is growing, since it is a very convenient material presented in the form of compressed rectangular plates. Plates are not only easy to install, but also easy to cut. To get a piece of the desired shape and size, just use a knife or saw.

For the production of mineral wool, blast-furnace slags or basalt are used, which are thermally processed and pressed. Due to the fibrous structure, the insulation retains air, which creates a barrier to cold air and does not allow it to enter the room.

The following material advantages are distinguished:

  • fire resistance;
  • high sound insulation;
  • durability of operation;
  • excellent thermal insulation;
  • the ability to withstand almost any deformation.

Some people do not buy mineral wool because it is not environmentally friendly and to some extent toxic. The material contains small harmful particles that can enter the respiratory tract and cause illness. Therefore, you need to work with insulation carefully. And in order for the mineral wool to not have a bad effect on the health of the residents of the house in the future, it is recommended to sheathe it from the inside with a vapor barrier film.

If moisture enters this insulation, it will begin to collapse. This will lead to a loss of thermal insulation properties and even the beginning of decay. To avoid this, it is necessary to make not only thermal insulation of the walls in the frame house, but also install a special waterproofing layer outside... It will make it impossible for moisture to enter the heat-insulating layer from the outside.

Walls are insulated with mineral wool as follows:

  1. From the inside, in front of the insulation, a layer of vapor barrier is installed to ensure air circulation with the wood and make it impossible for condensation to accumulate.
  2. The mineral wool itself is placed between the frame posts. When cutting sheets of insulation, it is better to make a small margin.
  3. In order for the insulation to be of high quality, the heat-insulating material is installed as tightly as possible.

Similarly, a frame wooden house is insulated outside. But instead of a vapor barrier layer, a special waterproofing membrane is pulled over the mineral wool.

Using mineral wool, you need to be puzzled by the question of what density the insulation should be for the walls of a frame house. Usually it is sufficient to use 25-30 kg. per sq. m. It is important that the material holds its shape, does not shrink under its own weight, so that there are no gaps in the thermal insulation in the wall. If possible, it is better to play it safe and use material with a density of up to 50 kg. per sq. m.

So, if you correctly install the thermal insulation layer with mineral wool, this insulation will be one of the best and most profitable options for a frame house.

Using glass wool

This is another fibrous material that tops the rating of the main insulation for a frame house. Glass wool is obtained by melting waste glass, soda, sand, dolomite and borax. sold in slabs or in rolls.

The material is quite nasty on contact, since glass fragments crumble, their suspension is in the air. Therefore, when working with glass wool, you need to use glasses, a respirator and gloves to protect your eyes and skin.

Despite this disadvantage, glass wool has a number of undeniable advantages:

  • fire resistance;
  • excellent heat resistance;
  • minimal hygroscopicity;
  • the ability to chemically not decompose for a long time.

This type of insulation for frame houses has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. And toxic substances are not released into the air even in case of a strong fire. Besides, glass wool is a very cheap option, so many people choose it.

When insulating a room with glass wool, it is worth sheathing it from the outside with a windproof film. This will maximize the preservation of heat inside the building, and also exclude the dispersion of glass dust in the air.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

- a more modern high-quality and environmentally friendly insulation, which is used in the construction of frame houses. It is made from cellulose.

Material features:

  1. To install insulation in a frame house, you must use a special device. He adds water to the insulation, and then fixes it in the walls. This is a wet mounting method.
  2. It is also possible to install ecowool in a dry way. For this, the material is poured into the frame, after which it is rammed to the required density.
  3. When choosing ecowool, it is not necessary to do hydro and vapor barrier, since this material does not collapse under the influence of water.

Despite these advantages, ecowool is not an ideal insulation for frame houses. Firstly, it is very expensive, and secondly, the installation must be carried out by specialists. They are needed not only for installation work, but also for calculating the thickness of the insulation, taking into account the thermal insulation requirements. Professionals will come to the facility, take measurements and calculate how much ecowool needs to be purchased.

Filling with polyurethane foam

(it is also called penoizol) is made from two components, the mixing of which allows you to obtain a reliable insulation with excellent characteristics. As a result, foam is formed, which can be poured into all the cracks in the frame house. Thanks to this, all with the structure of the insulation becomes monolithic, single. Installation of polyurethane foam is somewhat similar to working with polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane foam, or penoizol, has high thermal insulation properties, which many heaters do not have. But in order to fill it, you need to have certain skills and abilities. Therefore, you will have to call professionals for installation, since you cannot cope with this with your own hands.

Penoizol is quite expensive in terms of cost. This means that for those who are looking for an effective, but budgetary option for insulation, you will need to choose other materials.

Clay is a natural insulation

Clay mortar will be the best insulation for a frame house for the owner who chooses exclusively natural materials. Clay is not used in its pure form, but together with straw. The advantage of clay walls is that they don't need a vapor barrier. Clay maintains a comfortable microclimate in the house absorbing excess moisture from the air and releasing it if the air becomes dry.

The most important thing is to choose clay with the required fat ratio. If there is a small fat content, you will not get the desired grip.

To determine the fat content, roll a ball of clay and clamp it between the boards. If the ball has cracks that have destroyed it by 50%, sand must be added to the solution. The ideal composition of clay plaster disintegrates by 30% under pressure. If the ball has scattered at all, it means that it is completely unsuitable for further use.

There is no ideal recipe for how to make clay mortar for. In the process of its production, clay, water, lime, sawdust, cement and sand are used in different proportions, depending on the situation.
How to apply clay plaster to straw walls is described in the video.

Fibrolite - a new reliable material

Fiberboard insulation is made from wood chips, which are dried, they begin to be pressed, bringing to the appearance of a plate. Portland cement or magnesia salt is added to the chips in parallel for binding. In order for the material not to lose its thermal insulation characteristics, it is necessary to additionally make waterproofing. Fiberboard is ideal for interior ceilings and walls.

The popularity of fiberboard is growing every year, since this material has excellent characteristics:

  • does not burn in a fire, since the binders soak all the material and make it fireproof;
  • resistant to moisture;
  • well withstands any kind of deformation, since wood chips behave as a damper, and binders ensure the stability of a warm board;
  • although the composition contains a lot of wood chips, it does not rot and has no other biological activity, since the impregnation does not allow microorganisms to spread inside the material and spoil it;
  • completely safe and environmentally friendly;
  • It has high sound insulation properties;
  • thermal insulation boards capable of withstanding frost without deteriorating performance, therefore they are used even in regions with a harsh climate;
  • maximum durability of fiberboard - over 50 years.

Sawdust is an equally effective material

What to do if you want to save as much as possible on construction, but there is no way to get cheap insulation? You can use ordinary sawdust. Of course, an appropriate solution must be prepared from them. This requires lime, cement, antiseptic.

Sawdust insulation is prepared as follows:

  1. Sawdust, cement and lime are mixed in a ratio of 10: 1: 0.5.
  2. The homogeneous mixture is mixed with water, an antiseptic agent is added there, for example, boric acid.
  3. In order for the entire mixture to be maximally and evenly moistened, it is necessary to use a watering can for pouring.

The resulting solution is placed in the area between the beams or beams. More often sawdust is used for floor insulation, but they can also be used for walls. Moreover, the mixture sprinkle in small portions, tamping them strongly.

Despite the availability, sawdust as insulation has many disadvantages:

  • certain fire hazard;
  • low efficiency;
  • quite laborious work;
  • possible subsidence of the insulation over time.

It is possible to increase the efficiency of the insulation if you additionally use expanded clay.

What material to choose

So, there are a lot of materials, so it is difficult to say which is the best insulation for thermal insulation of a frame house. All considered options differ in characteristics, cost and appearance. Some have a limited scope, while others have a high cost, the need to attract professionals, and low environmental friendliness.

It is necessary to weigh which characteristics are priority and make the final choice. For example, according to the author of this article, basalt stone wool is the best insulation for the walls of a frame house. Perhaps you can be helped by tips from a video, the authors of which have tested products from different manufacturers.

One of the most wonderful options for your own home is a frame house. This is an excellent and comfortable home and also quite economical to build. However, the business is not limited to construction. It is necessary to complete the finishing to thoroughly insulate the house, because comfort will depend on this. Among the main features of a frame house, one can single out the fact that the walls are insulated directly during construction - this is primarily due to its design.

How to insulate a frame house: the choice of materials

Initially, you should decide what material needs to be laid in the form of insulation in the wall cake. There are a wide variety of materials for this. Best suited for this activity:


Insulation of a frame house can be done by hand

Basic requirements for insulation for the walls of a frame house

  1. It is best to choose insulation from an environmentally friendly material so that it does not harm human health.
  2. It must be resistant to moisture accumulation as well as fire.
  3. Ease of installation on the frame of the building insulation.
  4. The ratio of quality and price in insulation.
  5. Fire safety.
  6. Low thermal conductivity.
  7. Strength, as well as non-susceptibility to mechanical damage.

Wall insulation technologies

They can be different, but among them the main technologies can be distinguished:

  1. Thermal insulation with board materials (foam, mineral wool, etc.).
  2. Sprayed thermal insulation. This type of insulation is still quite rarely used due to its novelty. However, it is quite effective. In this case, polyurethane foam is used as a heater. The application process is similar to working with polyurethane foam.
  3. Backfill technology. In this case, insulation is carried out using cellulose fiber, as well as other filling materials.
  4. Combined options can also be used. Often the following scheme can be used: mineral wool is laid inside, foam plastic outside, and then plaster.

The procedure for external insulation works

When carrying out work, precise insulation technology plays a paramount role. Any factors that can provide a positive end result of insulation should be taken into account, including the reasons that can lead to a negative result.

  1. Hinged insulation method. In this case, the frame is attached to the wall, and waterproofing is attached directly to the surface. It can be of a pasting and painting type. In the case of waterproofing paint, the walls are applied with bitumen after priming. In the case of pasting, using bituminous mastic, a waterproofing roll material, isol, waterproofing, glass wool is attached. Then, tapes or slabs of rolled insulation are attached to the frame cells, using special glue, or mounting dowels.

    At the end of the work, the outer side of the frame is finished with decorative plates or panels. As a result, you can make fiber cement, composite, plastic, metal, porcelain stoneware and so on.

    Polyfoam is the cheapest insulation for walls

    The main advantage of hinged insulation is the ventilation system, which eliminates the appearance and accumulation of condensate in the insulation layer.

  2. Wet insulation method... This method is one of the cheapest, but at the same time, a rather laborious method. With the help of polymer glue, insulation plates are attached to the wall, after which the reinforcing mesh is fastened with dowels, and then decorative plaster is laid on it. This coating is also called "lightweight" plaster.
  3. There is also "heavy" plaster... It will be more complicated, but in terms of its reliability and durability it will surpass the "light" one. It is carried out as follows - insulation plates are attached to the wall using dowels, after which, using blocking plates, a reinforcing mesh is fixed.

    Thermal insulation of the house with fibreboard plates

    Then comes the first layer of plaster. It dries up within 24 hours and expansion joints are made. This is followed by the second, as well as the leveling layer, in which temperature-shrinkage joints should be present. The last decorative, where dyes are added, is applied after five days.

  4. Spraying liquid insulation... This method is the most progressive and modern. Polyurethane foam spraying is carried out using a special installation. A special feature is that the performance of such insulation is an order of magnitude higher, and the cost is equal to the average insulation. After polyurethane foam, almost any cover can be used as decoration, including curtain panels.
  5. Insulation applied by spraying

  6. Facing method... This option is one of the most expensive, however, and the most decorative. Facing with materials can be carried out on the wall of the building, as well as on top of the insulation. With the second method, the quality of insulation will be much better, however, it is necessary to perform high-quality ventilation.
  • when performing work, it is important to accurately follow the insulation scheme.
  • in multilayer systems, you need to make sure that there is sufficient ventilation so that the inner insulating layer does not damp, and, accordingly, does not collapse.

Internal insulation of the walls of a frame house

Sometimes there are situations when it is unacceptable. In this case, it is necessary to use internal thermal insulation. For this work, the same materials can be used as outside, however, mineral wool and glass wool, due to the complexity of installation, are rarely used. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam is used, as well as sprayed materials: ecowool, polyurethane, penoizol.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer

The cladding of the inner surface of the walls is produced in various ways. Insulation can be done with reinforced plaster, then putty and finally wallpapering or painting.

Insulation of a frame house from the inside

You can also use clapboard, MDF and plastic finishing panels. The most common option is drywall upholstery followed by a decorative finish.

Materials such as penoizol and polyurethane foam are also used. Penoizol can be applied to surfaces of various configurations, it is able to fill all irregularities and defects. It is environmentally friendly and resistant to fire, but the main difficulty in applying it is that a special foam filling machine is needed.

Read about the features in the next article.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (foundation laying, wall erection, roof construction, etc.). Internal construction work (laying of internal communications, rough and final finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technologies, computer technology, programming.

The day before yesterday I received an order for the insulation of a frame house. The client undertook the independent construction of this building, but in the process of work he decided to immediately adapt a country dwelling for year-round living. He did not know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think any novice builder can face a similar situation, so today I will tell you how and how to insulate the facade, floor and attic of a country cottage built using frame technology.

Choosing a place for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the thermal insulation layer - from the outside or from the inside. I prefer external insulation, but in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which sets out the features of the two mentioned options. Having studied it, you can independently make an informed decision.

Outdoor Internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation cake will be placed on the outside of the dwelling, therefore, during construction work, the interior of the rooms does not suffer. With internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishing of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, perform the finishing from scratch. This increases the time to complete the work and the estimated cost of construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation. Internal insulation shifts the point of moisture condensation inside the wall, as a result of which the enclosing structure is moistened, which significantly reduces its service life.
A wooden wall, which is in direct contact with warm air in the room, accumulates thermal energy, and when the outside air temperature drops, it releases it, eliminating the need to use heating devices. The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall undergoes numerous cycles of freezing and thawing, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, you can only resort to internal thermal insulation when insulating a very old house: the installed insulating material from the inside will avoid dismantling the external finish, which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. Several times I have come across situations where even the correct internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during severe winter cold. And I had to install an additional one - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let's figure out the better to perform the thermal insulation of a frame house outside.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Taking into account the specifics of a wooden house built using frame technology using sheet cladding materials, it is necessary to select a heater taking into account the following requirements:

  1. The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not release chemical compounds hazardous to humans into the air, even if it heats up during operation.
  2. The material must have fire-fighting properties - it will not ignite under the influence of fire and not contribute to the further spread of the flame. It is also advisable to select insulation that does not emit a large amount of smoke during a fire, making it difficult to evacuate people.
  3. It is better to select insulation with the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. The optimal thickness is no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average cross-section of the timber usually used to construct the frame).
  4. Strength and ability to maintain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame should fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
  5. Ease of installation. To simplify the process of erecting a frame house, it is necessary to buy insulation that is easily installed inside the frame walls without the use of complex engineering equipment.

Another factor is price. Considering the total estimated cost of building a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select a heater that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put the price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical characteristics and operational properties.

In my opinion, the closest thing to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation - mats based on fibers made of minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I reflect in the table below:

Characteristic Description
Low thermal conductivity The thermal conductivity coefficient λ of basalt wool is about 0.036 W / (m * K), depending on the density of the material. Thermal calculations show that for central Russia an energy-efficient house can be built with a layer of cotton wool 10 cm thick.
Incombustibility Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity Mineral wool fibers do not absorb water, and formaldehyde resins, which are used to bond the mats, have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture to the outside.
Light weight After installation, the insulation practically does not exert additional stress on the enclosing structures, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install Dense mineral mats of a suitable size are simply inserted into the gaps between the frame beams, without the need for additional lathing, accessories and the use of "wet" construction processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. I use TechnoNICOL or Rockwool products for my work.

And if you're wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, see the related article in this blog, which details the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate a house both outside and inside.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and after all, we have decided that it will be basalt fiber), you will need a lot of different materials:

  • OSB slabs for internal and external cladding of the supporting frame of the walls of the dwelling;
  • wooden beams 30 by 50 mm for arranging a counter-lattice and a ventilation gap between the insulating layer and decorative trim;
  • hydro- and windproof membrane - a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and destroyed by the air flow, but does not prevent the accumulated moisture from being removed from the thermal insulation layer;
  • internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene (for example, penofol) to increase the efficiency of the heating devices;
  • block house, with the help of which the external decorative finishing of frame walls will be made;
  • eurolining, with which I will sheathe the surface of the walls from the inside.

I will not dwell on which tools to use. You will understand in the process of further presentation.

Warming process

Now I'm telling you how to insulate a frame house for winter living. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for insulating a frame house are presented below. I must say right away that in my case the frame of the dwelling has already been erected, but the inner lining was not installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the dwelling for installation inside the heat-insulating material. I do it in the following sequence:

  1. I clean wooden parts from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden by facing materials, therefore, pollution can negatively affect the integrity of the structure, the efficiency and duration of operation of the insulation layer. You can clean the wood with a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

  1. I carry out repair of damaged frame parts. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I was insulating the new house during the construction process. But if you find areas of the timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installing the thermal insulation material.

  1. I install engineering communications. If hidden laying of engineering systems is supposed, then it is better to do this before sewing the walls with decorative material. There are several features that I want to mention:
    • All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable ducts that protect the insulation layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
    • When installing water pipes inside the wall, there should be no detachable connections, which over time can weaken and leak.

  1. I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. To do this, it is better to use a universal compound (for example, Guardian), which prevents the formation of mold and mildew on the supporting frame of the dwelling and gives the wood fire-fighting properties. It is necessary to process wood with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - interior cladding

For the interior cladding, I will use OSB boards and a vapor barrier with a heat reflective layer of brushed aluminum foil. The work is done in the following sequence:

  1. The frame of the house is sheathed from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulation material. A vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
    • The glued fibrous sheets must be cut into pieces of the required size according to the preliminary drawings.
    • Parts must be sized so that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. We need a gap 2-3 cm thick, through which moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
    • Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent self-tapping screws should not exceed 20 cm.
    • The seams of the cladding should be staggered with an offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allow avoiding warping of the surface when changing the dimensions of the base.

  1. I install a vapor barrier material. As I already said, its role will be played by penofol - polyethylene foam (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing the heating efficiency):
    • The material should be placed on the OSB sheets with a reflective layer outward, and then secured to the panels using a construction stapler or nails with wide heads.
    • Rolls of penofol must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.
    • To seal the seams, a double-sided adhesive tape is placed inside the overlap, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulation layer.

  1. Installing counterrails. They are necessary for arranging the ventilation gap between the foil and the finishing cladding. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally, depending on how your decorative material will be fixed (in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards with self-tapping screws directly through the foil foamed foam.

  1. I fix the lining on the counter rails. I have already described the very technology of wall cladding with clapboard, so I will not dwell in detail. I will only say that it is better to install the lamellas on the clays, thanks to which the change in the size of the euro lining is compensated for during operation.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNicol Technolight Extra slabs are best suited as thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit snugly between the supporting elements of the frame and hold there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, therefore, two layers of mineral mats of 5 cm each are sufficient for insulation.

The plus is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance of 60 cm between the supports. This is exactly the width of the insulation plate. Therefore, pruning is practically unnecessary. As a result, expensive material is consumed with maximum efficiency.

  1. I install the first layer of insulation. As I said, the width of the slabs exactly matches the distance between the frame beams, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them into the wall. Having straightened, the mineral mat will take its place firmly. Let me draw your attention to a few nuances:
    • Do not fix the mineral mat on the inner OSB board. Otherwise, the self-tapping screw can damage the foam foam layer, which is laid on the surface from the back side.
    • Trimming the slabs, if necessary, is done using a sharp clerical knife or a saw with fine teeth.
    • After installing all the plates, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the plates with polyurethane glue from a balloon. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

  1. I install the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first so that the lower and upper seams are running. The rest of the rules are the same as in point 1. Do not forget to fill the joints between the boards with polyurethane foam. Excess of it, after the final solidification, will need to be cut off sharp.

  1. I install insulation in structural elements of complex shapes. It is imperative to insulate all sections of the walls. Of particular difficulty are usually slopes, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat in the shape of the depression so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of the insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, this is not the end of the thermal insulation process. Outside, the thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 - Installing hydro and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences, a special polymeric vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is usually used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The essence is as follows:

  1. A film is laid on the insulation layer. The material is fixed with staples and a construction stapler to the frame beams. You can use wide-headed carnations:
    • Work should start from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.
    • Film sheets must be placed horizontally.
    • Each next canvas should overlap the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.

  1. I seal the joints between the individual canvases. For this, adhesive tape is used, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, you should get a completely sealed canvas that protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer cladding and a draft blowing in the ventilation gap (about it just below).
  2. I stuff the counter-lattice slats on the polymer membrane. Here, the ventilation gap is simply necessary, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

  1. I fix it on the OSB slats. I already described the technology of their installation when I talked about the inner lining of a frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell on this stage in detail.

Step 5 - finishing

The technology of decorative finishing of the facades of the house depends on the chosen material. In my case, it will be a block house, individual parts of which must be fixed on OSB plates using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use, for example, vinyl siding, OSB boards can not be used at all, but the lamellas can be attached to a profile fixed to a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - attic floor

To make it comfortable to be in a frame house in winter, it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of the heat energy losses occur through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly tell you how to insulate this surface:

  1. Hem the ceiling from below with OSB plates. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The filing will not experience a heavy load, therefore, it is enough to fix the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances at the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the substrate.
  2. Fix penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about the technology of wall insulation.
  3. Screw on the sheathing beams. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the total thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
  4. Decorate the ceiling surface with clapboard. It is attached to clips or self-tapping screws.
  5. Install insulation from the attic side. Mineral wool is inserted into the gaps between the beams of the attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up with sheet material (in my case, OSB plates).

Step 7 - floors

The last stage of work is do-it-yourself floor insulation. The technology practically does not differ from the ceiling insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

  • the vapor barrier film is placed on the side of the living space, and the waterproofing is at the bottom;
  • a grooved board is used as a floor covering, which is placed on a counter-lattice;
  • if it is impossible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be placed on the cranial beams, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read a separate article on thermal insulation of floors.

Summary

The technology described above tells about the thermal insulation of a wooden dwelling from the outside. How to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express your own opinion in the comments to the material.

Frame houses are gaining more and more popularity, however, this European trend in the Russian climate requires significant thermal insulation, as well as protection from wind and moisture. Experts recommend insulating the walls of a frame house not only from the outside, but also from the inside.

Choosing materials for thermal insulation

Several decades ago, to keep the house warm, a mixture of clay with straw, sawdust or shavings was poured into the walls of frame houses. At one time sawdust concrete was also popular, but these materials have long been out of use, although they do not lose their attractiveness due to their cheapness. In modern houses on the basis of a frame, for insulation they use mainly mineral wool (glass wool, stone wool) and foam.

Mineral wool has a number of advantages - they are fireproof, which is especially important for houses made of wooden frames, have low thermal conductivity, are easy to install, are produced in a form convenient for builders (mats, rolls) and are quite lightweight. The disadvantage of this insulation is that it cannot be called environmentally friendly, since it contains formaldehydes in small doses. In addition, moisture is contraindicated for him. Most often, mineral wool is used for external insulation, since it is not always convenient and safe to use this material for internal work.

Very quickly, among building materials, foam plastic was knocked out of the category of the most popular materials for thermal insulation. It is made from granules of polymer plastics, which are filled with carbon dioxide or natural gas.

Foam plates are very lightweight, easy to install, do not conduct heat and are environmentally friendly at normal temperatures. Insulation of this kind is not susceptible to rotting and the appearance of fungus, therefore, during its installation, additional layers of steam and waterproofing may not be required.

Perhaps the most important advantage of polystyrene is its modest cost. Its main disadvantage is the possibility of ignition and the release of substances harmful to human health during combustion. True, there is a fire-resistant version of this material - extruded polystyrene foam, which is also more compact.... All types of foam, oddly enough, can easily be spoiled by rodents, which is another significant drawback.

Polyurethane foam (PPU) is a sprayed type of thermal insulation that has the highest degree of heat retention and tolerates moisture very well. Spraying takes place with the help of special equipment, in which the active components are mixed and, falling on the surface, instantly foamed, forming a dense crust. PPU can be sprayed on almost any surface, even glass and metal, regardless of its position. The vulnerability of polyurethane foam is sunlight. When exposed to direct sunlight, its service life is approximately halved. But you can protect PPU from the sun by ordinary painting. Another disadvantage is that special equipment is needed to work with this material.

For waterproofing and wind insulation, builders often use glassine - thick paper impregnated with bitumen. However, its use as protection against moisture and wind is undesirable, since glassine does not allow moisture emanating from the house to pass through and contributes to its accumulation inside the frame. In modern practice, builders are increasingly using superdiffusion hydro-windproof membranes, which have a huge vapor permeability compared to glassine and perfectly protect the house from wind and moisture from the outside.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house from the inside - preparatory work

First, let's understand some basic principles, without which the insulation of the walls of such a house can be a waste of money. First, when wondering how to insulate a frame house from the inside, you need to think not only about the walls. Floor and ceiling can also let in cold! Secondly, thermal insulation materials must be reliably protected from moisture by external and internal waterproofing. Thirdly, when laying the insulation, it is important to observe the gaps necessary for ventilation between the material and the wall surfaces.

Before starting the installation of the insulation, clean the walls, floor and ceiling from dust and dirt. If there are any protruding nails or screws, remove them. The existing gaps between the elements of the frame of the house are filled with polyurethane foam. Dry damp areas of the frame with a construction hair dryer if necessary.

The site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the heat loss of a building.


How to insulate a frame house from the inside - step by step instructions

In the event that external thermal insulation using waterproofing was nevertheless carried out in the house, it is not necessary to re-install another layer of moisture protection inside the house, otherwise this may lead to the accumulation of excess moisture inside the structure and its rapid destruction. We will consider the option of insulating the house only from the inside.

How to insulate a frame house from the inside - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Installation of the waterproofing layer

We measure the walls of the frame house and cut the waterproofing material we have chosen into the corresponding strips. Using a construction stapler, we attach it to the racks, completely sheathing the frame. It is best to lay the waterproofing with an overlap, leaving about 10 cm under the top layer.Mounting is carried out at the junction every 10 cm.

Step 2: Installing the vapor barrier

Even in the case of using materials that are not afraid of moisture as a heater, it is still necessary to perform a vapor barrier. The reason for the seemingly superfluous costs at first glance is that, in addition to the insulation itself, there are other elements in the wall frame that should be protected from steam penetrating from the inside of the building into the walls, for example, the same wood.

For vapor barrier use a special film or foamed polyethylene. This material is also attached to the frame racks with a construction stapler close to the insulation. Sometimes builders simply wrap thermal insulating blocks in such a film, but this is not entirely correct - as already noted, all elements of the frame must be protected from steam. The joints of the film, as in the case of waterproofing, should be done with an overlap of at least 10 cm. For greater vapor barrier, all joints and abutments of this layer should be glued with double-sided tape. When installing a vapor barrier, keep in mind that its thickness does not in any way reduce the thickness of the main insulation.

They are collected in a fairly short time, using minimal labor resources. However, for all its advantages, it still has one small drawback. If you do not produce high-quality insulation of walls and roofs, it will be possible to use it only in the summer, since it will not be suitable for year-round operation in our climate.

Insulation of a frame house - types of materials

The modern market offers a huge selection of building materials for insulating frame houses. Based on the foregoing, it is very important that the insulation retains its functionality for more than a dozen years, for this it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

Currently, thermal insulation materials are conventionally divided into two categories - organic and synthetic.

  1. The first includes natural materials of natural origin (sawdust and shavings, compressed straw, etc.).
  2. The second category includes types of insulation obtained by a high-tech production method, using various chemical components and compositions for this, namely: mineral wool, foam, basalt, and others.

The excellent thermal insulation properties of synthetic materials make them the undisputed winners in this group. They boast such qualities as:

  • good moisture resistance;
  • low thermal conductivity and flammability level;
  • no shrinkage and long service life;
  • easy to use;
  • safety for humans.

Home insulation is the most popular and well-proven method. The material has excellent sound absorption, retains heat well, and also has a high environmental friendliness class.

Insulation of walls from the inside and outside

There is no particular difference where to start work on the insulation of a frame house, from the inside or outside, there is no. Here as it is more convenient to whom. For example, it is a little easier to install insulation from the street, but there is a risk that it may rain and then the work will have to be curtailed for a while.

Standard mineral wool insulation is 600 mm wide. Therefore, when erecting the frame, this moment must be taken into account. In order for the material to fit snugly against the uprights, the ideal spacing between them is 580-590 mm. This distance will not allow the insulation to slide down over time, as it will be tightly clamped.

According to the established standards, the thickness of insulation for a structure in the central region of Russia is 150 mm. Therefore, it will be advisable to use slabs with a thickness of 100 and 50 mm.

Thus, instead of three plates, two will be enough in the structure, thereby significantly reducing labor costs. Also the material is 100 mm. less prone to deflections and therefore more securely attached to the structure.

Fastening of vapor barrier and OSB boards

  • In order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, it must be well protected from it. To do this, from the inside, the wooden walls of the frame must be covered with a vapor barrier film. Using a regular stapler, we roll out the roll in horizontal strips and fasten it with an overlap along 5 cm... to the uprights. Make sure that the film is tightly adhered to the surface everywhere;
  • Next, we need to close the vapor barrier film with OSB plates, which will be the basis for the interior decoration. Using ordinary wood screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the panels one by one, cutting them off with an electric jigsaw if necessary.

Insulation installation

Consider, as an example, the insulation of the frame with slabs based on mineral (stone) wool. The material is quite resilient, so no additional method of fastening is required to fix it, it is enough just to insert it between the posts. The plates must be held tightly there due to the difference in size.

Installation of insulation is carried out in two layers using a checkerboard pattern. The second should overlap the butt joints of the first, exactly in the middle. This method avoids the appearance of so-called "cold bridges", which contributes to the appearance of condensation and dampness on the inner surface of the finish, as a result of which mold and mildew may appear.

After all the plates are installed, they will need to be protected from rain and strong winds. For this, by analogy with the internal walls, the external walls are sheathed in the same way.

A hydro-windproof membrane is used as a material, it will reliably protect the walls from drafts and rain drops. For a secure connection of the membrane, fix it to the uprights with a counter crate.

Wall cladding outside

Depending on the material you choose for the finishing, it is necessary to properly prepare the base for it. For ordinary siding or a block of house, moisture-resistant OSB boards are attached to the counter-lathing, to which guide bars are nailed.

It is very popular among the population, which accurately imitates the structure of real wood.

Insulation scheme in section

If the walls will be sheathed with any other finishing material (facade tiles, artificial or natural stone, etc.), it is unnecessary to nail guide bars to OSB plates, the walls for finishing are left in this form.

Roof insulation

  • Not many people know that roof insulation plays a very important role in creating a favorable microclimate in the house. High-quality insulation of this element reduces heat loss at home by 25-30 % , therefore, it is very important to approach this issue with full responsibility.

One of the most common ways to insulate the roof is to lay the insulation between, and in order for the insulation to last a long time, the roofing cake must have a ventilation gap.

The essence of the process of a frame house with mineral wool is quite simple and looks like this:

  1. From the outside of the roof, a diffusion membrane is nailed to the upper base of the rafters, which is fixed with a counter-batten;
  2. Further, from the inside, in two layers (each 100 mm.), using the same checkerboard pattern, insulation plates are laid. Pay special attention to the places of the gables and the ridge part of the roof;
  3. The insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier film, which is fastened with horizontal stripes overlapping from bottom to top 5 cm.;
  4. The final stage is the filing of the ceiling with a finishing finishing material (clapboard, plywood, block house, drywall, etc.)

Floor insulation

Another place where the leak comes from 15-20% so precious in our time warmth. You can, of course, fork out and install a system in the house, especially since nowadays there is enough for this.

However, why not try to warm it up first. After all, the floor is the place where a lot of interesting things happen.

Do not even count how many kilometers your baby crawls along it, and then on it he will take his first steps in life. Spending time on yoga and reading interesting books will be fun in addition to benefits.

The sequence of floor insulation in a frame house:

  • A layer of waterproofing film is rolled onto the rough floor. All joints are glued with reinforcing tape;
  • Between the lag for the floor, insulation is laid (thickness not less 200 mm.). To exclude the formation of a gap, the width of the insulation should exceed the distance between the lags by 1-2 cm;

  • Overlapped insulation on top 5-10 cm... covered with a vapor barrier carpet;
  • Further, depending on the floor covering, the floor is covered with sheets of plywood, or a finishing board is placed.

Conclusion

Today there are many different modern materials that are suitable for insulating houses built using frame technology. However, numerous positive reviews from owners show that there is no point in overpaying for expensive materials in this case. With the protection of the house from the cold, mineral wool, which is quite affordable, does an excellent job.

Therefore, we can safely conclude that mineral wool is a reliable, inexpensive and quite effective material for insulating a frame house. Due to its environmental friendliness and fire safety, insulation can be used both inside and outside the house, and nothing else is needed.

Similar publications