Installation of an additional toilet. Do-it-yourself toilet installation: features of installation of toilets of various designs. Dismantling of old equipment and preparatory work

The toilet has long become an integral feature of a well-appointed apartment or house. Gone are the "latrines". Now in construction supermarkets and online stores, a huge range of plumbing devices is offered for purchase: traditional compact toilets, devices with hidden cisterns, hanging, corner and even children's toilets. In principle, the installation of any equipment can be done by hand.

Do I need to install the toilet myself?

Of course, you can call a specialist to install the toilet from any service organization you like, be it a management company or an office offering installation services based on the principles of autosoring. However (at least for the most common toilet bowls) the installation of such equipment does not present any particular problems and is quite accessible after studying a short step-by-step instruction. In addition, an understanding of all the intricacies of the installation of toilets will help you to track the work of the involved specialists in a quality manner, and will allow you to discover hidden defects and shortcomings in the services provided.

Toilet types

In large supermarkets, showcases with toilets sometimes occupy several tens of running meters. However, with all the variety of assortment, almost all toilet bowls are no different from each other. A modern toilet bowl consists of several main parts.

1. Actually bowls... It can be of various shapes (with or without a shelf), with different water flushing technology (straight or circular), with a different design for its attachment to the supporting bases (floor, hanging or corner), with various additional features (for example, with a built-in bidet and even heated).
2. Sewage from the toilet, along with water from the cistern, goes into sewer pipe, which can also connect the toilet bowl and the sewer line with various configurations of pipes and adapters.
3. Water for flushing sewage accumulates in cistern... This device can also have various installation options (attached directly to the toilet bowl or hidden behind decorative partitions).

Plumbing fixtures are usually supplied with installation and operating instructions. But, nevertheless, some important nuances of installing such equipment are not described in the documents.

If you are not installing plumbing equipment in a new building, then the first stage of your work will be to dismantle the old equipment.

We remove the old toilet on our own

Dismantling work looks easier than installing equipment, but some rules must be followed when carrying out them.

Step 1... Carefully clean the toilet and surrounding area with disinfectants. You can use the cheapest, for example, chlorine ("Whiteness"). Wear protective gloves and possibly safety goggles before starting work. Prepare a bowl and rags to remove excess water.

Step 2... We shut off the water in the tank. On single-lever shut-off valves, when closing the pipeline, the lever must be turned perpendicular to the pipe. Empty the remaining water from the toilet cistern.

Step 3... Disconnect the water inlet hose. Depending on the model of your equipment, the hose may come up to the tank from the bottom, from the side, or from the top. Use an adjustable wrench or wrench.

Step 4... We unscrew the screws with which the toilet is fixed to the floor. In older homes, the bolts can become very sticky and will have to be cut or even smashed into the toilet bowl. You may need to break out the toilet and from the attachment to the cast iron sewer pipe. Have patience and pliers. If you intend to leave old tiles on the floor, be very careful - sharp and heavy pieces of the toilet bowl and excessive force when loosening the bolts can damage the ceramic.

Step 5... If your old toilet is attached to a plastic sewer pipe, it will be very easy to dismantle it. Pull the toilet towards you and remove the toilet outlet from the sewer contact pipe.

You now have access to the installation site of the toilet. Let's skip the moment of installing the plastic sewage system (noting that the location of the inlet of the sewer pipe under the toilet bowl must correspond to the toilet bowl outlet pipe), we will proceed immediately to the installation of a new plumbing fixture.

How to mount a toilet compact with your own hands

To install a standard compact toilet bowl, consisting of a bowl and a cistern, we carry out the operations in the following sequence.

Step 1... We check the condition of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe. We clean it if necessary. To prevent the spread of odors, cover the neck with a cloth or plastic wrap.

Step 2... We place the toilet on the floor. If a certain distance remains from the outlet pipe of the toilet bowl to the sewer neck, then we measure it and buy a corrugated tube of a suitable size.

Step 3... The set with the toilet can include a "heel" - a soft lining under the base. If it is not there, then you can make the lining yourself, for example, from an unnecessary piece of thin linoleum, cutting it off along the contour of the base.

Step 4... We carefully place the compact toilet in the place of its future location, check the symmetry of the location relative to the walls, the distance to furniture items, to the outlet of the sewer pipeline.

Step 5... We mark on the floor the location of the contour of the base of the compact toilet bowl and the location of future holes in the floor for fastening screws.

Step 6... We move the toilet-compact to the side and start drilling holes.

• If you have tiles are already laid on the floor, then its top layer is drilled with a specialized drill without perforation. Further, the hole is deepened with a percussion drill.
• If the toilet is installed on a wooden surface- holes are formed with a conventional wood drill.
• If you have in your toilet linoleum, then the hole can be cut with a sharp knife until it is firmly closed.

Step 7... We install dowels into the drilled holes.

Step 8... We place the base of the toilet on the seat and tighten the screws into the dowels. The base of the toilet can be sealed around the perimeter to prevent moisture penetration.

Step 9... We remove the plug made of a rag or polyethylene from the neck of the sewer pipeline and connect the toilet bowl outlet and the sewer together. The junction of the corrugated hose and the sewer pipe is also treated with a sealant.

We connect the cistern to the compact toilet

There are models of compact toilets in which the cistern is a separate element. In order to mount the tank, you must perform the following operations.

Step 1. We select the bolts for fastening the drain tank. Perhaps the bolts supplied with the equipment are not protected from corrosion, therefore it is better to use bolts with an anti-corrosion coating (galvanized) or made of stainless steel. Also, there must be at least two sealing washers per bolt. We twist the whole structure. The sealing washers will also protect the ceramic from the bolt damage.

Step 2... We connect a flexible underwater hose. First, the fixing nuts are nailed and tightened by hand, and then with a wrench or adjustable wrench. Between the tank nozzle and the hose and between the hose and the water outlet, insert silicone gaskets or use fum tape.

Important! After finishing the installation of the toilet and cistern, wait about six hours for the sealant on the floor to completely solidify.

Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern

The following types of hidden toilet cisterns are most common on the market: wall-mounted or side-mounted. Depending on the model, we select the installation instructions.

We install a hidden type cistern for a side-mounted toilet

1. Install the toilet on the floor as described above.
2. In the prepared niche we mount the cistern. It is usually bolted down just like in a regular toilet bowl.
3. Installing the frame for the decorative wall. Usually this is a metal profile on which drywall sheets are fixed. From above, the plasterboard is sheathed with tiles.
   When installing drywall sheets, we provide an opening for the outlet of the flush control system. When installing a barrel with a fixed button, carefully calculate the distance from the body of the tank to the surface of the future decorative wall. Typically, these dimensions are indicated in the instruction drawing. In addition, it is necessary to provide for the placement of an inspection hole in the decorative wall for servicing the hidden cistern.
4. We bring the control panel to the surface of the wall, we carry out the finishing of the decorative wall.

Installing a hanging toilet with a hidden goby

The installation of such a structure gives you an advantageous chance to redevelop the premises of the bathroom, to use its area more rationally. Installation of a suspended toilet bowl with a hidden cistern is carried out with the creation of an additional wall that will hide all engineering communications. We act in the following sequence.

Step 1... We create a project for the future bathroom. The concealed cistern has a certain thickness, which must be taken into account when designing a new wall. It can have a control system (button), which is either directly attached to the tank body, or extended to a certain distance.

In addition, when designing the supporting structures of the future wall, it is also necessary to provide for the creation of a load-bearing frame that will support the hanging toilet. Here you cannot do with a thin aluminum profile, which is used for installing plasterboard partitions. The load-bearing structure is welded from a metal corner. But usually a metal structure for hanging the toilet is already included with the equipment. This finished metal structure is called an installation. Fonts are attached to it, on which the toilet will subsequently be mounted.

Step 2... After drawing up the project, we begin welding work on the formation of the support frame and erect the frame from the profile under the plasterboard wall, or install the finished frame. The frame must have voids for the installation of sewer pipes.

Step 3... We lay the sewer pipes, bringing the inlet to the level of the outlet pipe of the hanging toilet. Do not forget that the sewer pipes must have a certain slope during installation.

Step 4... We place a hidden tank in the space behind the future wall. We connect it to the toilet drain pipe. If the drain control button is located directly on the tank, make sure that its outer vertical surface extends beyond the level of the future decorative facing of the plasterboard wall. We connect the supply hose to the drain tank. Then we connect the "rough" hanging toilet bowl and the hidden cistern, putting on and fixing the toilet bowl on the pins and connecting the pipelines for water delivery and drainage. Do not forget to check the performance of the entire structure, the strength of its fastening before sewing the frame with drywall.

Step 5... We remove the hanging toilet from the pins. We mount plasterboard sheets. Usually they are simply screwed onto the profile with countersunk screws. We form a hole for the tank drain control button. We make holes for the fonts for fixing the toilet bowl, for the pipe for supplying water and draining sewage into the sewer. The gaps between the sheets of drywall are putty. To facilitate the formation of holes, a special template is included in the delivery set of the wall-hung toilet, on which all the main contours are indicated.

Step 6.At the final stage of work, a topcoat is laid on the walls, for example, tiles.

Prices for a toilet with a hidden cistern

toilet with concealed cistern concealed cistern

Installation of a toilet bowl on a pedestal

As stated above, toilets have different outlet pipe configurations. When the toilet bowl is discharged horizontally or obliquely, the drainage pipe is mounted flush with the base of the toilet bowl, its inlet pipe is directed horizontally or sloped upwards.

However, there are also models of toilets with direct release. In them, the exhaust pipe is directed vertically downward. Due to this configuration, the drainage pipe must be lower than the base of the toilet. This design of sewer networks is not available in all houses. But what if you like this toilet model more than others?

There is a way out - installing the toilet on a pedestal (this elevation can also be called a podium). It is necessary to perform a number of works.

1. Lay the sewer downpipe. Depending on what its slope will be before entering the collector or another pipe, the height of the pedestal is calculated and, accordingly, the level of the base of the toilet bowl.
2. After receiving the required dimensions, we proceed to the construction of the pedestal. It must be installed on a solid, preferably concrete base. However, the downpipe of a toilet bowl of this design can be located in the gap between the finishing and rough wooden floor. When placing a toilet bowl with a direct outlet on a wooden base, the sewer network must be laid before the final floor is laid.
3. On a concrete base, the pedestal can be built from bricks. Form a rectangle with an opening for the inlet of the waste drain pipe. Bricks can be laid out directly in a row, to each other, filling the entire inner space of the pedestal, leaving a niche for the sewer pipeline.
4. From above, the brick pedestal is plastered and closed with a topcoat, for example, tiles.
5. Next, we do it with a direct release as described in the section on installing a conventional floor-standing toilet.

Installing a corner toilet

There are models of toilets that are installed in a corner. It differs from the classic floor-standing or wall-mounted only in that its cistern has a back wall in the form of a triangle. It is due to this configuration that the structure can be installed in a corner.

The technology for installing a corner toilet is, in principle, no different from the installation of a "straight" toilet of the corresponding design. The only thing that can cause some difficulty when installing a corner toilet is the summing up of the receiving sewer pipe. It must be installed in such a way as to ensure the drainage of waste water, possibly with a turn in the pipeline.

In addition, the design of the concealed cisterns with a straight back wall also allows them to be installed in a corner. To do this, in the corner of the room, a wall is mounted diagonally to the corner, behind which a hidden suspended tank is installed. Such a structure can be located both at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls, forming an isosceles triangle, or at other angles, forming the toilet space according to your wishes.

To learn more about the technologies for self-installation of the toilet, watch the training video.

Video - DIY toilet installation

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water pipe is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible hose is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid is designed, which is made of the following materials:

• Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 ° C and remain functional for 3 years. At high humidity, the aluminum braid is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water hose is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 ° C.
• Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

As fasteners, nut-nut and nut-union pairs are used, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different permissible temperatures differ in the color of the braid. The blue ones are used to connect to the cold water pipeline, and the red ones are used with hot water.

When choosing an eyeliner for water, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible hoses are also used. Unlike water models, they are yellow and do not pass environmental testing. End steel or aluminum reinforcement is used for fixation. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and accessories for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and the quality of products is confirmed by certificates of the established form. For informational support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage is an irrigation and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if the shrubs and trees quickly disappear (soak), it is necessary to urgently take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging of the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogging:

• clayey heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• the aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high groundwater table;
• man-made factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that impede natural drainage;
• violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• the landscape plot is located in a lowland, a ravine, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What is the risk of excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

• the content of oxygen in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and diet in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disturbed, because excess water washes away the mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
• there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, putrefaction processes are activated.

Plants can tell you what level the groundwater is at

Take a closer look at the flora of your site. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

• top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
• at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges - bubbly, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass grow;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, ranks;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning the drainage of the site

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• at a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow in high beds;
• the depth of the water layer up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetables, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if the groundwater is at a depth of more than 2 m, fruit trees can be grown;
• the optimum depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need drainage of the site

Write down your observations at least for a while. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sedimentary water along a bypass channel, rather than letting them flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend to call. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness of this issue.

At the end of the technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the involved system by the forced spill method. This task is applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the test report for internal sewerage systems and gutters will be material evidence of the acceptance of the facility.

Visual inspection should be accompanied by the introduction into the certificate of testing of internal sewage systems and gutters according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the series "D" appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary-technical systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working edition for SNiP 3.05.01-85.

The toilet is a thing that, depending on the number of people in the family, is used with enviable regularity. And although the manufacturers make it quite durable, nevertheless, there are a number of reasons why the toilet needs to be replaced. For example, ceramics has become unsightly or the toilet mechanism has broken down, plus there is a natural physical and moral deterioration of things. Therefore, the question of how to install the toilet is of interest to many who have not spared the problem of replacing the toilet.

Types of toilets

All types of toilet bowls are represented on the sanitary ware market, which differ in special characteristics:

• according to the configuration of the outlet drain: horizontal, oblique, which is located at an angle of 45 degrees and vertical;
• in the shape of the bowl: visor, where the walls have a different angle of inclination, disc-shaped with an inner platform and funnel-shaped, which is considered the most practical option.

Before starting work, you need to figure out how to properly install the toilet, depending on the main toilet systems, the disassembly of which can have significant differences:

• Suspended or wall-mounted. With this design, the plumbing does not touch the floor, but is only attached to the installation - a special wall system that can withstand any loads. Aesthetically, everything looks attractive, because all communications are hidden. However, the installation of such a structure requires significant financial costs, the smallest repairs turn into a huge problem, and the question of how to install the toilet with your own hands remains open.
• Attached. With this system, the toilet is attached to the floor, and the cistern with all communications is hidden in the wall. The plus is the appearance of such a device, and the minus is the difficult repair of hidden parts.
• Intra-floor. Such a system is used in public toilets when the installation is done directly into the floor recess. However, for apartments and houses, this option remains unacceptable to many.
• Outdoor. The most popular standard designs are with a toilet bowl attached to the floor and an adjacent cistern. The indisputable advantage of such technologies is the ability to install and repair the toilet yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists.

The installation of a new toilet, regardless of the specific type of product, consists of two stages:

• removing the old toilet bowl;
• installation of a new product.

Dismantling the toilet

When removing an old toilet, special precautions must be taken to avoid water leaks, which in the worst case will require further renovation measures. Therefore, in order to avoid common mistakes, below is a step-by-step guide for non-professionals.

Overlapping water

The first step in dismantling a toilet is to turn off the water. This can be done by simply shutting off the tap. However, there are situations when the valves are no longer used for a long time, and they have time to rust. In this case, the main riser should be shut off and the faucet should be changed at the same time during the repair process.

Advice! To prevent taps from rusting, they should be used for prevention at least once a year.

After closing the tap, completely drain the water from the tank.

Disconnecting the water supply hose

There is a flexible hose on the side of the cistern that carries water for flushing. It is fastened using ordinary nuts, which can be unscrewed very easily.

Removing the cistern

The waste cistern is attached to the toilet with two long screws. In order to unscrew them, you first need to remove the tank cap. Then, if necessary, blot excess moisture with a sponge (if water remains inside, it will certainly spill onto the floor through the holes of the removed bolts). There may be a situation where the screws are rusted. have been in contact with water for many years, then a special anti-rust agent will help.

After loosening the bolts, carefully remove the drain tank, swinging it in different directions for even extraction.

The toilet is usually attached to the floor with several bolts (it is possible that a wooden board is first placed under the toilet). To facilitate the workflow, you first need to remove the toilet lid. Then be sure to put rags on the floor or substitute a bucket. The toilet has a water seal, where water is constantly located - this is a kind of barrier against unpleasant odors from the general sewage system. When removing plumbing, a fair amount of liquid is poured out, as a result of which neighbors can be flooded.

Then you need to unscrew the bolts at the base of the toilet. If they are rusted, then you need to use a special tool or cut them off with a grinder.

You need to walk along the entire base line with a sharp knife or blade, because often the joint between the toilet bowl and the floor is coated with a sealant.

Fastening to a common sewer pipe, very often, is fixed with cement. In order to get rid of it, you can use a drill with a medium drill.

Important! In order not to breathe gases from an open sewer, before removing the toilet, you should prepare a homemade plug, for example, old rags. After a quick cleaning of the pipe from the remnants of construction debris, you must immediately plug the hole with a prepared rag.

Now the old toilet can be removed, and this completes the dismantling work.

Removing the wall-mounted toilet

When dismantling a wall-mounted toilet, the procedure is approximately the same:

• first you need to loosen the bolts that hold the toilet bowl in the wall installation;
• then disconnect the toilet from the cistern and the general sewage system;
• finally remove the toilet.

Before the direct installation of the sanitary ware, it is necessary to perform some actions:

• Conduct accurate measurements of the old toilet in order to avoid unnecessary problems when buying and installing a new one. You also need to pay attention to the length of the bowl so that it does not accidentally block the door.
• Choose a brass mount that does not corrode. However, some metal toilet seat bolts have a yellowish zinc coating that makes them look like brass, so the item should be checked carefully.
• Renovate or good.

When installing a toilet, you can use one of three methods:

• Taffeta fastening. With this method of installation, taffeta is placed under the base of the toilet. This is a special hardwood board pre-treated with linseed oil. It should be laid either on the same level with the floor, or slightly higher than it. The taffeta must be secured with anchors and the installation site must be filled with cement. After the solution is completely dry, you can proceed with the installation of the toilet. All joints with the sewer pipe should be treated with a sealant and sealed with tow, and the base of the toilet should be screwed to the prepared place with screws. Then attach the drain tank and check the system for leaks.
• Bonding with glue. One of the easiest ways is to fix the toilet with epoxy glue. To do this, it is necessary to clean the contacting surfaces well, and then degrease them with one of the substances - a solvent, acetone or white spirit. After that, you need to roughen them for greater adhesion and repeat the degreasing procedure. Then dry. The next step is to connect the cistern to the toilet. Then you need to apply a thin layer of epoxy glue to the floor, put a sanitary ware on it and press it well (you can just sit on the toilet). The glue should dry for at least 12 hours.
• Dowel mounting. Correct installation of the toilet is easy with dowel mounting. This practical method involves fixing the toilet directly to the floor, without first installing additional structures under its "leg".

Do-it-yourself toilet installation will consist of several steps:

1. Preliminary fitting. You need to put a toilet on the prepared floor and check for discrepancies between the height of the neck and the drain pipe. It is also necessary to check the angle of inclination. Correction should be made if necessary.
2. Construction markup. First, you should measure the width of the room and find the middle, which will be the axis of the toilet. Install a toilet on it, approximately at a distance of 10-15 cm from the outlet of the sewer pipe. Then, in the mounting holes, you can insert a marker and make the appropriate marks. At the end, you need to circle the base.
3. Assembling the cistern. In accordance with the recommendations of the instructions, you need to assemble the tank, and then screw it to the toilet. To check the quality of the work done, you can reconnect all communications and make a test run. After a successful experiment, you need to drain the water again and continue the process of replacing the toilet bowl.
4. Preparing the mounting holes. In the places marked with a marker, holes must be made using a hammer drill or puncher. Then hammer plastic dowels into them.
5. Corrugation sealing. First you need to wipe the pipe dry with a rag and apply silicone in waves to the ribbed rubber hidden in the drain pipe. The same actions must be carried out from the opposite end of the corrugation, processing the area that is put on the neck of the toilet bowl.
6. Connecting the device to the sewer. First, part of the corrugation (up to the edge of the elastic band) must be inserted into the sewer pipe. On the opposite side, firmly put it on the toilet outlet. Then, on the place previously outlined with a marker, you need to lay a special rubber gasket or apply a good ball of silicone.
7. Equipment installation. Initially, you need to put the toilet in the prepared place, press it down and screw it to the floor. Excess silicone formed during installation can be cleaned with a wet cloth, passing it along the contour of the device.

This completes the installation. Now you can carry out a test run of the water. If the work was carried out without errors, then the tank will be filled with water to the required level and its flow will stop. There should be no overflow. After draining the water, the process should be repeated without interruption. You should also carefully check that the newly installed structure does not leak anywhere. If everything meets the above criteria, then the installation can be considered successful.

In recent years, a wall-mounted toilet has become very popular, so the question of installing a wall-mounted toilet is more relevant than ever. Installation of such plumbing equipment is carried out on the wall without any fasteners or contacts with the floor. In order to securely fix the toilet, you first need to build a metal frame. It is attached directly to the supporting wall, and already the toilet itself is attached to it. This applies if the tank and pipes need to be hidden behind a plasterboard wall. In some versions, a wall-mounted toilet with an open cistern can be mounted directly to the wall. But then it will be necessary to press the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is made using anchors that are mounted in a wall or frame.

Installing a toilet bowl on a tiled floor

The tiles should always be intact and beautiful, regardless of the workflows for installing the toilet. There are unspoken rules for this, the list of which is given below:

• When installing the toilet, it is imperative to put on rubber gaskets under the anchor nuts and dowels. They will prevent cracks in the toilet when tightened and eliminate rusty streaks on ceramic tiles.
• If the tiles are already installed, then the best solution would be to attach the toilet with epoxy resin or dowels.

Important! Deep holes cannot be made for dowels, because it is possible to break the waterproofing layer, which in turn can lead to more serious problems.

If you are thinking about installing a toilet for the first time, this article is for you. Moreover, it is better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new "faience friend" or before finishing finishing in the toilet.

The fact is that modern toilets are so different that they have a very different type of attachment, flush, sewer supply, etc. So, ideally, planning what kind of toilet you have to install with your own hands, you need to start already at the design stage of the toilet.

And what to do if there is an old "throne" in the toilet - how to remove it, avoiding a worldwide flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, a step-by-step guide and a few tips from the masters will help you save money and do it yourself without any problems.

It is impossible to plan a convenient toilet without taking into account the peculiarities of the toilet that is to be installed there.

To understand what exactly is to be done, you need to know:

• whether it is necessary to dismantle the toilet bowl, which has served its purpose and carry out overhaul in the toilet (including cladding, repair and connection of sewer communications and floor screed);
• what are the dimensions of the new plumbing - will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
• what kind of fastening does your future toilet have;
• what is the way to flush the toilet;
• at what height do you want to install the plumbing.

If you know the answers to all these questions, all that remains is to dismantle the old (if necessary) and install a new toilet.

Recall that floor plumbing is subdivided into several types. It differs in shape and structure.

Bowl shape classification:

• funnel-shaped;
• disc-shaped;
• visor.

The outlet flush happens to the toilet bowls:

• horizontally oblique;
• vertically designed.

The flushing cistern can be combined with the toilet bowl and independent (wall-mounted).

Toilets are attached to the floor: for 2 and 4 attachment points, for corners.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet, which needs to be dismantled, is not wall-mounted, which means it is attached to the floor. It will be possible to remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

1. We turn off the water and drain it from the cistern in the toilet.

   

2. We unscrew the thin hose suitable for the tank.

   

3. We unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusted or "stuck", you can water them, leaving them for 5-7 minutes, with a special agent that will dissolve the lime. Or you can simply rip off the bolts using a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench. Also, in order for the bolts to give in, you can spray on the "WD" mount in advance, with kerosene composition, etc.
4. Following the cistern bolts, unscrew the toilet seat fasteners. They usually look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To simplify the process, use the same techniques as for the cistern mounts.

   

5. Next, you need to unhook the toilet bowl drain from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is old, then the drain at the attachment point is probably coated with cement for strength. It needs to be beaten off with a hammer and a screwdriver. First, the compound must be crumbled across the joint, and then the cement can be mechanically destroyed. The drain should swing for now, but stay in place.

   

6. We tilt the toilet several times in different directions, thus draining the water remaining in the knee.

   

7. Ready. An old toilet can be detached and proudly carried to the trash, remembering to plug the gaping sewer hole with a plastic, fabric or wood plug.

   

If there are no plans for the old toilet bowl, and you see it off on its last journey, then after rocking it can be split with a sledgehammer so that it is not hard to endure it. The same will have to be done if the old plumbing fixtures are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, assess the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron ones create many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet bowl and distributing sewer drains (by the way, you can also read about installing plastic pipes with your own hands on our website).

Self-assembly of plumbing "step by step"

A toilet bowl needs a flat, lined or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor for normal operation.

1. First, we connect the toilet bowl drain with the help of a corrugation to the outlet of the sewer pipe-riser. A rigid nipple can also be used. The best option is if the toilet bowl drain enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to take into account that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is fine.

   

   Toilet installation - cuff

2. To enter the water, you need a flexible, sufficiently long hose that connects the tap, which supplies liquid from the water supply to your plumbing tank. Pay attention to both inlet diameters to find a hose with two matching fittings. Obviously there is no way to screw a 3/4 ”thread onto a 1/8” pipe.

   

   We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe

   

   

   

3. If the drain is securely connected, you can begin securing the plumbing.

   

   

   

Fastening to the floor: 3 types of fasteners

You can fix a toilet with a wall cistern without screws, for one resin. True, with this method of fastening, you must first clean the surface of the tile so that the glue holds better. When using epoxy, it is important to let the freshly installed plumbing dry properly and adhere to the floor surface.

Fixing the toilet to the wall

Hanging toilets are being used more and more. Their installation is not much more difficult than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl installation on our website). A wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame that is attached to the load-bearing wall itself. In this case, the cistern and toilet pipes are located behind a false wall made of plasterboard. If the hinged plumbing has an open tank, then it will be possible to fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe must be inside the wall. The structure will be supported by the same anchors embedded in the wall or in the supporting frame.

After fixing the toilet bowl on the wall or on the floor, all that remains is to assemble the toilet. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fixed, or a pipe from a tank hung on the wall is supplied to it.

It remains only to check if the toilet is working and if there are any leaks. We turn on cold water, wait until the tank is full, adjusting the filling level. We adjust the locking mechanism according to the instructions. We wash it off and see if it flows from the drain.

The last step is to screw on the toilet seat. But here, for sure, you can do it yourself.

1. Before buying plumbing fixtures, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the supply of the sewer riser, you must choose the same type as in your used toilet. Remember: no adapters will help to qualitatively connect the toilet with an unsuitable type of outlet.
2. Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet at the final moment of the repair: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance in order to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
3. Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that ugly drips and sticking of the bolts are excluded.

If you have started a major overhaul of the bathroom, or the plumbing is out of order, then you may need to replace the toilet. This process has a number of features that must be taken into account, and the approach to choosing a new toilet must also be correct.

Of course, you can call a plumber from the housing office, or turn to private craftsmen who will provide a professional installation. But installing a toilet bowl with your own hands will not only save your money, but also allow you to understand the whole process, which means that you can choose the most suitable installation option.

In this article, we will tell you in detail everything you need to repair your toilet to help you do all the work yourself.

The first thing to decide is which toilet to choose

Replacing the toilet in its entirety is part of a comprehensive one, therefore it includes:

• selection of a new toilet, taking into account the methods of fastening and drainage;
• dismantling the old toilet;
• repair of the toilet room, including the replacement of pipes, screeds, cladding and other things;
• installation and connection of a new toilet.

You should buy a new toilet in advance, and at the same time you need to consider some features that will help you make the right choice.

Floor-standing toilets are divided into several types according to their design. Their differences are based on the shape of the main nodes.

1. The shape of the outlet can be horizontal, vertical or oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. The bowl of the toilet bowl can be visor, dish-shaped or funnel-shaped.
3. The models also differ in the type of cistern: it can be combined with the base of the toilet bowl or mounted on the wall, and at different heights.
4. The fixing of the toilet bowl to the floor differs. This can be an option with two or four anchoring points, or a design in which the toilet is installed on special corners attached to the floor.

Tip: choose a toilet based on the type of flush. If you are not going to change the sewer pipe, then take a model with the same type of drain as the old toilet. No adapters will provide a high-quality connection of a toilet bowl with a vertical and direct outlet.

The method of connecting the cistern will determine the types of further cladding work in the toilet room. For example, if you choose to mount to a wall, then you will need a prepared place and an anchor for installation.

1. First of all, the water supply to the inside of the drain tank is shut off, water is drained from it and the underwater hose is unscrewed. After that, the tank fasteners are unscrewed. If they are rusted or covered with lime deposits, you need to hold the bolt head with a screwdriver and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. Use kerosene or aerosol lubricant - these products will significantly soften rust and lime deposits.
2. After the tank is removed, unscrew the fasteners that hold the toilet bowl - dowels or nuts screwed onto the anchor.
3. Now you need to disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If your house is still old construction, then most likely the drain will be fixed. In this case, you will need a hammer and chisel. Position the chisel across the grout and gently chuck the cement in two places. Rock the toilet with force so that the drain twists and looses. Tilt the toilet without detaching to drain any remaining water.
4. After dismantling the toilet, close the hole in the sewer pipe with a wooden stopper or cloth stopper.

Dismantling the toilet does not require special care, because you are unlikely to reuse the product. Therefore, if the cement paste is too strong, you can beat off part of the toilet with a sledgehammer to facilitate the work, and then make a transverse hole in the pipe, insert a metal rod into it as a lever to make it easier to loosen the drain.

For your information: if you have cast iron drain pipes installed in your apartment, then it is better to immediately replace them with plastic ones. The operation of PVC pipes is much easier, both for the initial wiring and for connecting all the drain points.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation process

After you have dismantled the old toilet or completed all the finishing work, prepare the surface, level it and proceed with the installation of the toilet installation.

1. Attach a rigid pipe or a corrugated pipe to the toilet bowl drain, for articulation with the sewer drain pipe. The best option would be in which the toilet bowl drain enters the pipe outlet directly. When doing this, use a rubber gasket with a border. Do not seal the drain into the sewer inlet with cement.
2. Prepare the water inlet. A flexible hose, which is screwed onto the inlet to the tank and the water supply tap, is well suited for this. Pay particular attention to the diameter of the hose fittings at both ends.
3. After the connection is made, you can fix the toilet on the wall or floor. We'll take a closer look at this process below.
4. Assemble the toilet. Place the tank on the previously fixed base. If your tank is suspended, fix it to the wall and run the pipe. Now you can check how correct the tank settings are and how the toilet is working. Turn on cold water, wait until the tank is full. While the water is being collected, you can adjust its level. You can find out more about this from the instructions for the tank.
5. The last step is to attach the toilet seat. There are holes on the top of the toilet bowl for attaching it, and the kit includes the necessary parts.

Now we will consider in more detail the ways of attaching the toilet, as well as the features of each of them.

How to properly install the toilet, taking into account any little things

There are usually three options for attaching the toilet to the floor:

• installation with anchors cast in a screed or dowel;
• fixing the toilet bowl with screws on a wooden base, previously installed in the screed;
• installation on epoxy resin.

If you decide to change the toilet due to a major overhaul, then anchoring or a prepared wooden base would be the most suitable option. In this case, the anchors for attaching the toilet are placed on the floor when the screed is being formed. They should be installed so that they protrude 5-6 cm above the surface. The surplus can then be cut off.

Match the taffeta (wood plank) to the size of the toilet base. Drive nails along its entire surface in a checkerboard pattern so that they protrude on the other side. Now turn the taffeta over and place it where the toilet will be. Pour the screed with concrete along the top edge of the board, install the toilet and secure it carefully with screws.

There are also certain rules for attaching a toilet bowl to a tiled surface. Be sure to put rubber gaskets under the nuts and on the dowels: they will prevent the toilet bowl from cracking when tightened and prevent rusty streaks on the ceramics. Use nickel-plated anchors and bolts, they are easy to unscrew even after the service life has expired.

Tip: when installing the toilet on, in order to prevent damage to its appearance, use an epoxy mount or dowels.

Under the dowels, you need to make holes through the screed and tile into which the screws will be screwed. The holes should not be too deep so as not to touch the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, pour some sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. Be sure to put a rubber gasket on the screw. It is best to place the toilet on a cushion of sealant and then press down with screws.

What other options are there for installing a toilet?

When installing a toilet, you can do without parts such as anchors, dowels and screws altogether. Epoxy resin will come to your rescue. The main thing is to prepare the base of the toilet bowl and the floor surface according to all the rules. This option is optimal if the tank is mounted on a wall, since it represents half the weight of the entire structure.

1. To get started, walk with sandpaper or an abrasive stone on the floor surface so that later the epoxy resin seizes and holds well.
2. Apply the adhesive to the floor and base of the toilet in an even layer of a few millimeters. Install the structure, level it and wait until the resin is completely dry.

Hanging toilets have become popular lately. They are installed on the wall without any contact with the floor. For installation, you will need to make a metal frame and attach it to the supporting wall, and fix the toilet directly on it if you plan to hide pipes and a tank behind a drywall wall.

It is also possible to mount a hanging toilet with an open-type cistern directly to the wall, but in this case, you will need to transfer the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening of the structure is carried out by using anchors built into the frame or wall.

Do-it-yourself video about installing toilet bowls