Fence made of profiled sheet with brick. Construction of a fence made of corrugated board with brick posts. We mount the corrugated board on the frame

Have you decided to protect yourself and your property with a beautiful and high-quality fence made of brick and corrugated board?

Our today's article is devoted to competent instruction of the most popular combined fencing in recent years. So what is it like?

Outwardly attractive design, distinguished by its slenderness and special strength, has support pillars built of bricks.

In turn, wear-resistant galvanized steel sheets that do not corrode, known more as corrugated board, are used to fill the space between the posts.

The first stage is related to the design characteristics and the future location on the site.

Before starting purchases, it is advisable to draw up a detailed draft design, which takes into account the smallest nuances: the location of the future fence, the features of the foundation (width and level), a place for a wicket and a gate. Competent preparatory work will prevent additional material costs and negate the appearance of cracks or deformation of the structure.

Consumption of materials for a fence made of brick and corrugated board with your own hands:

• brickwork (usually 1.5 bricks) can have different heights, but should be 100-150 mm higher than the steel sheet;
• sand-cement mixture;
• steel reinforcement, laid inside the brick pillar, increases the resistance of the masonry to loads;
• metal embedded parts required for longitudinal guides during the installation of profiled sheets are connected by welding with steel horizontal girders;
• a profile or steel pipe measuring 88 x 2.8 mm, reinforced with brick pillars, in which a wicket and a gate will be installed;
• concrete or metal caps installed on the top of the brickwork, performing a protective function (protects the pillars from aggressive natural influences);
• reinforced concrete (grade M200);
• steel profiled sheets.

The thickness of the sheet should start from 0.5 mm and more, the height should be C10-C8.

Ready-made fence made of brick and corrugated board

Installation of corrugated board has its own differences:

• polyvinyl chloride, used as a protective coating (smooth or textured), preventing mechanical damage to the sheets;
• paint and varnish coating (ordinary, thermal indicator, luminous, electrical insulating, etc.), which protects against corrosion and wear, and performs an aesthetic function (it can be of different color shades).

Perimeter measurement

The marking of the territory for the future fence begins with determining the position of the location of the fence being erected.

To do this, it is necessary to drive in the pegs at the intended corners of the structure and stretch a cord or nylon thread between them.

With a more accurate designation of the measurement, the length of the perimeter is divided into equal segments and marked with pegs, under each of which a hole is prepared for mounting the pipe.

The next step is to accurately represent the fence: it can be of any height and width. The side of the fence made of corrugated board should be one brick thick, the front side - one and a half; each 2nd row of a brick pillar is reinforced with a reinforced steel mesh.

It is imperative to double-check the perpendicularity using the diagonal method and determine the absolute zero of the future fence using a level.

Earthworks

This process does not require heavy equipment. The whole procedure is manual, performed with the help of shovels (bayonet is needed to dig a trench 40 - 80 cm deep, depending on the climatic conditions of the territory (to the level of soil freezing), shovel - for stripping) and scrap.

In the process of excavation, a large amount of soil comes out. The upper fertile layer - black soil - is left on the site if possible, the rest is usually taken out.

The width of the prepared ditch is made slightly larger than the intended one for a more comfortable formwork assembly.

Formwork

To create a temporary flooring for laying brick pillars, strong semi-edged boards, pieces of a transverse beam (necessary to strengthen the wooden frame), wood screws and an electric drill are taken.

The formwork, into the cavity of which the concrete mixture will be poured, is collected 10 - 20 cm below ground level and prepared for the basement part.

Temporary decking is only needed for strip foundations.

• The formwork is assembled directly in the previously dug ditch and starts from the top board.
• 10 mm reinforcing bars are used to strengthen the foundation (installed in the ditch every 1.5 m) at a distance of 10 cm from both sides, going up the trench. 4 rods are needed to assemble the horizontal component of the frame: at a distance of 10 cm from the end of the trench, the lower 2 reinforcing rods are installed, the last ones are at the very top, 5 cm from the upper surface of the concrete. Cut rods, mounted with a wire with a step of 1.5 m over the entire area of ​​the frame, are used for vertical reinforcement.

Formwork construction is a prerequisite for the construction of a fence

The gap between the formwork and the reinforcement must be at least 3 cm (protection of the metal from possible corrosion).

• The reinforcing frame, due to the ease of installation, is assembled directly on the ground and then embedded in the formwork. The reinforcement base is interconnected with a knitting wire with a diameter of 1 mm with an overlap of about 20 cm along the longitudinal rods.
• The next step is to install reinforcing elements to strengthen the brickwork: the corners or pipe are leveled and fastened with building boards or pieces of timber.
• Preparation of concrete mortar (crushed stone, water, sand and cement grade M 400) manually or using a concrete mixer. If it is necessary to increase the frost resistance of the prepared mass, a plasticizing or air-entraining additive is added (alternative: household liquid soap is mixed with water and, after the foam has settled, is added to the prepared solution).
• The last stage is pouring concrete into the formwork, accurate leveling with a trowel and the most accurate leveling along the line of the stretched nylon cord. It takes several days to obtain the desired condition and complete drying (from 3 to 7 days after flooding).

It is necessary to monitor the verticality of the pillars when pouring the concrete mixture. For denser concreting, the bayonet method is used.

Foundation preparation

The best base depth is from 60 cm to 1 meter, that is, the boundary of soil freezing in a certain climatic territory. This choice guarantees the stability and durability of the prepared base.

Fence foundation

The foundation is a strip reinforced concrete, the width of which corresponds to the thickness of the brick pillars. The corrugated board dictates its own rules: the width of the base gradually narrows, and the depth decreases to 0.5 meters due to the lower load.

Stepped foundations are ideal for areas with sudden elevation changes.

Construction of brick pillars

The main point is the presence of decorative bricks, cement-concrete mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3, for plasticity, you can add liquid household soap at the rate of 0.1% per concrete solution), reinforcing mesh 5 x 5 x 0.4 see and special tools.

A brick pillar is erected around a metal frame by 0.5 m every day, the distance between the masonry is 2.5 - 3.5 m. The space between the bricks and the steel rack is filled with concrete mortar.

If during operation the pipe interferes with the masonry, then the brick should be cut off with a grinder and prepared for the pipe.

Brick pillars

At the very beginning, in the middle and at the end of each support pillar, insert plates and corners are installed (necessary for a strong fixing of the corrugated board).

The final stage is the fastening of special caps, which give the brick pillars a finished look and protect the masonry from the influence of rain and snow.

It is necessary to monitor the strict verticality of the corners and the horizontal seams; and do not miss the embedded parts for wickets, gates and spans of the future fencing.

Assembling the steel frame

Since the formwork is already ready for assembling the frame from a shaped pipe, profiled sheets will be mounted to it.

To do this, the pipe should be cut into the required lengths and markings should be made for the attachment points of the horizontal pipes. The assembly of the steel frame does not require additional labor and long time, it is usually assembled by two craftsmen during the day. Finally, the metal base is painted with alkyd enamel or a protective layer.

Installation of corrugated board on the frame and fastening to the posts. Installation work

One of the important stages is the fastening of the profile sheets to the erected brick pillars. The corrugated board can be mounted either using 5 x 30 mm galvanized roofing screws with the calculation of 6 pieces per 1 m, or using steel rivets 3.2 by 10 mm.

Metal profile sheets are overlapped with an electric drill using rubber gaskets (4.8 x 30 mm) on the protruding logs from the profile pipe (20 x 40 x 2 mm), located between the brick posts.

The scheme of a fence made of brick and profiled sheet

The self-tapping screw is mounted in the lower part of the profiled sheet through one wave.

• All welds and metal parts are covered with earth to prevent corrosion.
• The foundation is covered with cardboard so as not to spoil the bottom end of the profile sheet.

The fence is ready! If you wish, you can paint, plaster or tiled with decorative tiles.

Low rotations of the drill when tightening the fastener prevent overheating, leading to the grinding of the screw edge.

Fencing cost

Finally, let's look at prices. A beautiful and durable corrugated fence can be built within 2 weeks. The costs are different.

For a fence with a height of 9 meters and 6 brick pillars, approximately 30,000 to 50,000 rubles will be required. On average, the price per running meter starts from 4,000 rubles.

A well-built fence is not only an excellent protection, but also an aesthetic addition, since a presentable and solid construction is in perfect harmony with the surrounding landscape and architectural ensemble.

Video on the topic

Looking for the best option for fencing a private house or garden area? Pay attention to the combined fence made of brick and corrugated board. It will harmoniously fit into any landscape design of the site and the architectural style of the building, and at the same time it will become a very economical but durable solution.

Positive points

• Corrugated board- these are steel profiled sheets coated with a colored polymer or galvanized to protect against corrosion. A fence made of such material has excellent reliability: sheets can be bent, but it is impossible to break their integrity with naked hands. By the way, a damaged sheet can always be replaced with a new one (even after assembling the entire structure).

• The durability of corrugated board fences ranges from 25 to 50 years(it all depends on the operating conditions). It should be noted that this material is highly resistant to sunlight, temperature extremes, as well as to atmospheric, wind and mechanical influences.

• Wide range of colors and shades makes it possible to choose the most optimal option that will be combined with the facade of the building and other elements of the backyard territory.

• Fences made of brick and corrugated board mounted pretty quickly as these are relatively lightweight materials. In addition, the involvement of special equipment is not required here.

• Brick pillars greatly strengthen the structure of the corrugated fence and add more solidity and expressiveness to it.

• Climb over such a fence is very problematic., because its sharp edge is a serious obstacle for intruders.

Installation work

A brick fence with corrugated board is being built in stages:

• measuring the perimeter;
• foundation preparation;
• making columns;
• fastening of profiled sheets.

Note! The corrugated board is fixed in one of two ways: over the supports (i.e., as a result, it covers the rest of the structure) or between the supports (in this case, it is most often used with brick pillars). In the article we are talking about the last method of installation.

Material selection

Below are some tips for choosing. We hope you find them useful.

• As a rule, manufacturers use polyvinyl chloride as a coating for profiled sheets. It creates a fairly thick and durable outer layer that prevents mechanical damage, wear and corrosion of the sheets. The texture can be both smooth and textured. However, after a couple of years, the material will fade and noticeably fade.

• In addition to polyvinyl chloride, sheet coloring is also used. Fortunately, modern paints and varnishes meet the highest requirements for protection against damage and corrosion. It is impossible not to mention the aesthetic properties: the color saturation of the painted corrugated board remains for a very long time. In addition to everything, manufacturers offer, in addition to the usual ones, luminous, electrical insulating, thermo-indicator paints and varnishes.

• A protective layer is required on both sides.

• It is better to match the color of the material to the color of the building facades.

• Experts recommend the following sheet parameters for each section: thickness - 0.5 mm or more; profile height - С10 - С8.

Perimeter measurement

So, let's move on to the main question - how to make a fence out of brick and corrugated board? First of all, you need to designate the exact location of the structure, choose the appropriate foundation level and decide on the thickness of the fence itself.

The construction site can be fenced off in the simplest way - pegs are installed in the place of the future corners of the fence, and a nylon thread is pulled along them. After that, using a tape measure, it is necessary to make all measurements and draw up a project for the future fencing.

In our article, the installation of the narrowest fence made of corrugated board and brick is taken as an example. Brick posts will have a side one brick thick, and a front one and a half. In order to strengthen the pillars, profile pipes 40x40x2 mm and reinforcement of every second row of brickwork with galvanized steel plaster mesh 25x25x1 mm are used. In addition, pillars with embedded elements, reinforced with a steel pipe 80x2.8 mm, are used to fasten the gates. Brick - "Bassoon".

Earthworks

Before you build a fence made of brick and corrugated board with your own hands, you need to decide where to put the soil dug out while digging a trench.

Please note! 1 cube of soil is loosened during excavation and increases in volume somewhere 1.5 times.

If the option of scattering excess land around the future fence does not suit you, then you will need to take it out. Polypropylene bags (40-50 kg) are perfect for this purpose. About 30 such bags are used for 1 m³. Very comfortably. The top fertile layer (black soil) can be poured separately from clay and earth. Excellent fertilizer for the farm and plus savings on export.

Often they resort to the help of an excavator to carry out earthwork, but when building a fence, the volume of soil of the required trench is not so great, only 3 cubic meters. So digging a trench with an excavator is simply unprofitable and inconvenient.

For manual earthwork, the following tool will be needed:

• shovel;
• bayonet shovel;

For preparation of a trench volume 4 m³ soil without stones, two workers will need approximately 5 hours, taking into account breaks.

Formwork

Formwork can be done immediately after the trench has been dug. As a rule, for the foundation of the fence, the formwork is assembled only for the basement part 10-20 cm below ground level. It will be rational to use a construction half-edged board as a material - it is quite durable and inexpensive.

Armed with an electric drill and wood screws, we begin to assemble the formwork. It should be noted that the pressure that concrete exerts on the formwork is quite high, and therefore the boards are additionally fastened with wooden lintels and brick supports. All this is done before the foundation is poured, because it will be very difficult to set the already curved boards back. The assembly of the panels is carried out directly in the trench. We start from the top board, located along the nylon thread, which is stretched at the level of the future foundation.

You also need to take care of the reinforcement of the foundation. For this, 10 mm reinforcing rods are useful. Vertical rods are placed in the trench every 1.5 m. For horizontal reinforcement, we take all the same rods: horizontally on both sides at a distance of 10 cm up the trench, and also on both sides at a distance of 5 cm from the concrete surface.

The frame made of reinforcing rods is easier to assemble on the surface, and then lower it into the formwork already in its finished form. The rods are held together with annealed wire with a diameter 1 mm.

A corner or pipe for reinforcing brick posts is mounted in the formwork only when the formwork itself and the frame made of reinforcing rods are completely ready. They are leveled with a building level and fixed with boards.

Foundation preparation

For brick pillars, the best option would be a strip reinforced concrete foundation. The continuous monolithic tape looks very solid, and besides, it does not allow rainwater to enter the fenced off area from the street. It is better to make the base the same in width as brick pillars.

However, one problem needs to be mentioned here. Often, professional builders and DIYers are faced with decent level differences. In our case, as an example, the level difference exceeds 0.5 m with a length of 10 m. In such cases, the construction of a single-level foundation leads to excessive consumption of concrete. In addition, such a foundation can interfere with the fastening of the gate. The most rational way out of this situation is to split the base tape into several separate sections with different levels of at least 10 cm.

It should be noted that the thickness of the foundation can also vary. For example, under the pillars, the base can be full width, and under the corrugated board it can be narrower. The positive aspects of this option are the reduction of land work and the saving of concrete. Minus - the assembly of the formwork is much more complicated. We will take a foundation of uniform thickness as an example.

As for the depth of the base for the fence posts. The most optimal will be the distance that is equal to the depth of soil freezing in the construction region. In our example, this figure is 1 meter.

Remember that the foundation must, first of all, ensure the reliable functioning of the gate, which will be fixed to the profile pipes in the brick pillars by welding. In those places where there will be less load on the fence, that is, under the sheets of corrugated board, the depth of the foundation can be reduced to 50 cm.

Attention! The shape of the foundation should expand towards the bottom of the pit. This is done to counteract the tangential forces of heaving of the soil, which can reduce the life of the fence and disrupt the normal operation of the gate.

Now let's talk about the concrete work that needs to be done during the construction of the fence. To save time and effort, the foundation for the fence must be poured using a concrete mixer. It is better to put it next to the formwork in order to drag heavy concrete less manually.

So, the procedure for mixing concrete in a concrete mixer:

• Place the concrete mixer at an angle of 35-45º and fill in the crushed stone. Why do you need crushed stone? It is the largest aggregate and prevents cement and wet sand from sticking to the walls.
• Then you need to pour the concrete additive and half the required volume of water into the concrete mixer.
• We fill in 0.5 of the required sand after mixing crushed stone with water.
• After mixing for 30 seconds, the mixer should be positioned at an angle of 60-70 ° to prevent dry sand and cement from sticking to wet walls. Next, fill in the cement and the remaining sand.
• The remaining water is poured after the mixer is again at 35-40 °.
• All this mixture is well mixed for about 2 minutes and, if no lumps are visible, the concrete mixer is unloaded.

Good to know! The ideal loading into the equipment is 0.5 of the maximum volume. The largest loading of gradients increases the preparation time for truly high-quality concrete.

For 1 share of cement grade PC-400, as a rule, it is taken:

• 6 rubble;
• 0.7 water;
• 3 sand;
• air-entraining additive by 0.1% by weight of cement.

Advice! Ordinary liquid soap is an excellent substitute for air-entraining and plasticizing additives. 10 ml of soap for 1 bucket of cement. In this case, it will be more convenient to lay concrete and it will become more frost-resistant.

How to make a fence from corrugated board and brick if there is no concrete mixer at hand? Concrete can also be prepared by hand. Here's a quick guide:

• We take a container with a volume of about 100 liters and pour 1 bucket of cement and 3 buckets of sand into it. Mix them dry. A garden rake can work as a mixer.
• Pour 10 ml into an empty bucket and fill it with water to the top. There should be a lot of foam on the surface, and the concrete mix just plasticizes the better, the more foam there is. This means that concrete will be easier to mix and lay.
• This soapy water is mixed with a dry mixture prepared in advance.
• When you have a homogeneous mass, pour 6 buckets of rubble into it and mix well.

The disadvantage of mixing with your own hands is a lot of time (it takes about half an hour to prepare 100 liters of concrete). Moreover, due to the increased volume of water, the concrete mix becomes less durable. But, alas and oh, with less water, mixing concrete by hand is very, very difficult.

After pouring the foundation, the concrete is immediately covered with plastic wrap in order to prevent its surface from drying out quickly. In hot weather (25-30ºC), complete demoulding is done in about one week.

Construction of brick pillars

As a rule, the pillars are laid out with facing bricks (for example, as in the photo below - the "Fagot" brick). Of course, for this work it is better to involve an experienced bricklayer-facing and his auxiliary worker.

For brickwork, a cement-sand mortar is used. It is prepared in a ratio of 1 to 3 (again, for plasticity with the addition of liquid soap). Laying is carried out gradually - 0.5 m high in 1 working day. Simultaneously with the masonry, the gap between the steel post and the brick is filled with the same mortar. Each row is reinforced with a special 50x50x4 mm masonry mesh for greater strength.

• the design of the site itself;
• fencing aesthetics;
• height of profiled sheets.

To fix the corrugated board in the brickwork, embedded plates, corners (in the middle, below and above the posts) are provided. Three lags are quite enough for reliable fastening of three-meter sheets.

The final stage of the decorative design of the pillars is the installation of covers. They give the brick posts a finished appearance, and also protect them from moisture ingress. These covers are made of concrete or galvanized and painted steel. The service life of high quality products is equal to the service life of corrugated board.

Advice! If you prefer concrete covers, it is best to purchase those that are colored with mineral pigment. Under the influence of external conditions, the paint will not wash off them, and their color will not fade over time.

Concrete covers are laid on top of the posts on a cement-sand mortar. To install the steel covers, you will need another fixture - dowels, with which they will be attached from below to the brick.

Assembling the steel frame

This stage of construction of the fence can be started after the concrete has settled in the formwork for at least a couple of days. The frame is assembled from a profile pipe 20x40x2 mm using manual arc welding. Then the corrugated board itself will be attached to it.

Here is an assembly diagram of such a frame:

1. We cut the profile pipes into vertical sections of the required length;
2. We put marks on vertical segments at those places where horizontal pipes will be welded (a margin of 30 cm from each edge of the fence);
3. In the marked places, weld horizontal pipes on one side;
4. We check the correct position of the pipes with a building level;
5. We finally weld the horizontal pipes.

It is much more convenient to assemble the frame with two pairs of working hands. For welding work, a welding machine with a maximum power of 6.5 kW will be sufficient. After welding, the frame needs to be painted. Alkyd enamel PF-115 is suitable. But if rust is noticed on the pipes, then you will have to apply a rust converter in advance.

Installation of corrugated board on the frame and fastening to the posts

The last stage in the construction of the fence is the installation of corrugated board. Before getting down to business, it is better to cover the foundation with cardboard so as not to damage the lower edge of the profiled sheets.

Then marks are put with a felt-tip pen for screwing in self-tapping screws. The profiled sheeting is attached to the profile pipe 20x40x2 mm in the lower part of the corrugation through one wave using galvanized roofing screws 4.8x30 mm with rubber gaskets. 6 self-tapping screws are required for 1 m of profiled sheets. Sheets of corrugated board are connected with an overlap. It is better to tighten the self-tapping screws with an electric drill at low speeds. This is to ensure that the cutting edge of the screw does not overheat and does not grind.

Fencing cost

It must be said that fences made of corrugated board and brick are not such an expensive pleasure. Such a fence takes two weeks of construction work (not taking into account downtime) and approximately 50 thousand rubles of the budget. This amount is calculated for 6 brick pillars and the fence itself is 9 m long.

If you know the perimeter of the fenced area, then you can easily calculate the required number of profiled sheets and brick pillars. To do this, divide the length of the fence by the length of the corrugated sheet that you have chosen for yourself. Pillars are usually placed no more than 3 m from each other.

Note! The height of the fence is almost unlimited. You can order sheets of the size you need from the factory. And if something happens, you can build up a ready-made fence.

The total price of the fence includes the following components:

• cement;
• concrete additive;
• profiled sheets;
• shaped pipes;
• reinforced rods;
• knitting wire;
• self-tapping screws.

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

Today, on the market of enclosing structures, there are many proposals using a variety of materials (wood, metal, concrete, PVC), but, perhaps, the most solid of them is a brick fence.

With all its advantages, this type of fencing has only one drawback - the high price. Therefore, experts recommend combining bricks with less expensive materials. The best example of such a union is a corrugated fence with brick pillars. Detailed instructions with photos and videos on the installation of such a fence with your own hands are presented in this article.

Where to begin

Do-it-yourself construction of a fence made of corrugated board with brick pillars should begin with drawing up a project. At this stage, it is important to take into account the location of gates and entrance gates, as well as technological recommendations:

• The step between the spans should be 2.5-3m;
• The fence should be placed strictly along the perimeter of the site;
• Control the level of inclination of the soil; if necessary, divide the fence into segments according to the height differences.

Construction stages

I. Marking the territory for the future fence.

Before starting, it is important to check the site plan and then break the pegs around the perimeter. The cord is stretched tightly between the marks, the perpendicularity is checked (by the method of diagonals), and then, with the help of a level, the absolute "0" of the structure being erected is found.

II. Manufacturing of metal-concrete structures.

According to the stretched and set at the level of the lace, grooves are formed in the ground. The recommended depth of the pits to be concreted under the pillars should exceed 1 m, which in the cold season should prevent deformation of the enclosing structure (usually they are buried to a depth of 1.5 m of soil freezing).

If you want to strengthen the fence or add some constructive originality, you can place a strip foundation between the posts (to a depth of 50 cm). In this case, you should take care of a solid formwork. For its walls, you can use both wood and OSB with a thickness of more than 100 mm. For fastening the formwork, use a transverse beam, which is dug into the ground from one end, and from the other it is nailed to the shield itself.

At the next stage, you need to take care of the strapping and installation of the reinforcing frame into the formwork. For the manufacture of this frame, fiberglass reinforcement (diameter 10mm) and knitting wire are best suited. We form the frame of the parallelepiped according to the dimensions of the recess.

Next, metal stiffeners are installed at the base of future pillars. After that, fasteners are fixed between them, creating a fence frame. We complete these works by directly pouring a cement solution (grade not lower than M200) into the existing recesses.

III. Bricklaying for fence posts.

To carry out these works, you can use any moisture-resistant brick, but ideally, you should pick up beautiful decorative samples. It is recommended to tie each layer of brick with a metal mesh, applying a uniform layer of mortar on top. Be sure to use the level! Either a cement or metal cap should be installed at the top of the support post.

IV. Fastening metal profile sheets to the fence frame.

On the fastenings protruding between the support pillars (logs from a 40x20 mm profile pipe), corrugated sheets are mounted using galvanized self-tapping screws 5x30 mm or steel rivets 3.2x10 mm.

Is it possible to build a strong and powerful fence from corrugated board, while maintaining the low cost and speed of production?

Our answer is that you can, if you make a fence with brick posts, combining the advantages of an expensive brick fence with a budget option on a steel frame. In the example below, you will learn how to make a base for a facing brick fence and fill its openings with inexpensive high-quality corrugated board. Such a fence will be strong, but light, cheap, but quite solid and beautiful.

Choosing a fence design

The first step in building a fence is drawing up its design and choosing a structure. It is necessary to decide where the fence from the corrugated board will pass, determine its thickness and choose the level of the foundation. To start drawing up the project, you need to install pegs at the points of placement of the corners of the fence and pull a nylon thread over them. Now, with a construction tape, you need to measure the sides and draw up a design plan for the fence.

Drawing from the fence project. 1 - brick pillars. 2. Foundation (reinforced concrete). 3. Profile pipes. 4. Steel pipes.

In this example, the corrugated board fence will be narrow enough to save some space next to the driveway. For this, the appropriate design of brick pillars is selected (see figure). They have a width of one and a half bricks on the front side, and one brick on the side, or 25 cm. To strengthen the bearing pillars (a), a profiled pipe 40x40x2 mm is laid in them. The construction of such posts is carried out with reinforcement and bandaging of even rows of masonry with a galvanized mesh with a section of 25x25x1 mm. Pillars intended for fastening gates and wickets (b) are additionally reinforced with steel pipes 88x2.8 mm. In this example, bricks with one and two beveled corners are used.

We draw up a foundation project

Reinforced concrete foundation will be the best foundation for brick posts. A fence made of corrugated board with a monolithic strip foundation will look solid, and the foundation itself will reliably protect the site from street animals and streams of rainwater. The width of the foundation in our example is equal to the width of the brick pillars.

If there is a large elevation difference on the site, it is better to break the foundation with steps

In our example, the site had large differences in height (more than 0.5 m per 10 m length). When constructing a single-level foundation strip, we would be faced with a serious overconsumption of concrete. In addition, when installing the gate, the level of the foundation can be quite high, i.e. there will be a gap between the ground and the gate. To avoid these difficulties, the foundation is divided into several sections with different levels. The height of the foundation above ground level does not fall below 10 cm, so that dirt does not collect on the upper plane of the foundation during rain.

You can make a foundation strip with a uniform thickness (in the figure on the left) or with a different one - full under the posts and narrow under the corrugated board (in the figure on the right). The foundation with different thicknesses allows you to reduce earthwork and reduce the consumption of concrete, but the formwork in this case is more difficult to assemble. Since in our case the thickness of the tape is small (25 cm), we chose the option with a foundation of the same thickness.

The foundation tape can be of different thickness - this allows you to save on earthwork and concreting

In the given example, the foundation under the brick pillars was laid at a depth of 1 m freezing of the soil. This made it possible to guarantee the stability and immobility of the foundation, therefore, the reliable functioning of the gates attached to steel pipes in the pillars. In less critical places (under the steel posts, to which the corrugated board is attached), the depth of the foundation was 0.5 m. This made it possible to save on work and concrete.

Since the depth of the sections of the foundation for the fence made of corrugated board was different, they were not connected into a single structure.

First of all, this is due to the fact that the buoyancy forces of the soil will not equally affect the foundation located at different depths. If such sections are tied into a single structure, less deep sections of the foundation will take a large load and simply deform the rest of the sections, destroying the structure. Such deformations are especially dangerous for the part of the tape on which the gate posts are located, as this will lead to disruption of their functioning.

This is how the foundation strips lying at different levels are separated

To effectively counteract the heaving of the soil, the force of which tends to push the foundation out of the soil, it is made expanding to the bottom.

We carry out land work

During excavation work, there may be a problem with the removal of the open soil, because when it is worked out, it turns out to be more than the expected volume, since the loosened soil takes about 1.5 times more space than the compacted one. It is not always possible to place land near or inside the site, and it has to be removed. For export, it is poured 40-50 kg into polypropylene bags, with 1 cubic meter. m. requires about 30 bags.

In order to save on the removal of soil, its top layer was poured separately. Further, it will come in handy on the farm or neighbors can pick it up.

The volume of the selected soil was about 3 cubic meters. m., therefore, given the small space for maneuvers, it was impractical to dig trenches with an excavator. We give approximate prices for land works in table 1

For dense soils, shovels with an angled bayonet are not used

To carry out land work manually, you needed:

• pedigree shovel (subspecies shovel);
• bayonet shovel.

Remember to use a straight bayonet shovel, as if the bayonet is at an angle, it is much more difficult to dig with it. Two workers coped with digging a trench for 4 godfathers. m. in five hours with several breaks. The ground was without stones.

We build the formwork

As soon as the trenches are opened, you can start arranging the formwork. It is collected to the height of the base of the foundation and 20 cm below the surface of the earth. For the device of the formwork, a conventional semi-edged board is usually used.

The formwork is assembled on wood screws, having previously drilled the holes with an electric drill. Since the concrete will exert significant pressure, the boards should be additionally secured with brick supports and wooden lintels. It should be borne in mind that it will no longer be possible to straighten the boards after pouring the foundation with concrete. In addition, the panels should be assembled in a trench, while they are assembled from the top board installed along the thread marking the upper level of the foundation.

To make the fence made of corrugated board strong, the foundation under it is strengthened with reinforcement rods (10 mm). Vertical rods are installed at a distance of 1.5 m from each other, and for horizontal reinforcement, four rods are installed: two 10 cm from the base of the foundation and two 5 cm from the upper surface of the pour. To protect the reinforcement from corrosion, it must be in the concrete at a depth of at least 3 cm.

It is convenient to assemble the reinforcing cage on the ground, and already assembled, place it in the formwork. The reinforcement is assembled using a knitting wire with a diameter of 1 mm. The joints of the longitudinal reinforcement rods are made with an overlap (about 20 cm).

Before concreting the foundation, the pillars should be reinforced with corners

After assembling the reinforcing cage and formwork, pipes or corners are inserted into the latter to strengthen the brick pillars (see figure). They are leveled and fixed with boards. This is a simple operation and can be done easily by one person.

To save money, you can not arrange a foundation in those areas where the corrugated board will be attached to steel pipes, i.e. without brick pillars. In this case, the pipes are concreted into pits about 60 cm deep and 50x50 cm in size. Before pouring the concrete, the pipes are level and fixed with a wire to the struts so that no distortions occur during concreting.

We carry out concrete work

It is better to mix concrete with a concrete mixer. In order not to carry it to the place of pouring, the concrete mixer should be placed in front of the formwork. Here is an approximate sequence of work when mixing concrete:

• set the concrete mixer at an angle of 35-45 degrees, pour crushed stone into it. It will help remove the remnants of the concrete from the previous batch and will not allow sand and cement to stick to the walls of the concrete mixer;
• pour concrete additive and half of the water into the concrete mixer;
• after mixing crushed stone and water, fill in half of the sand;
• stir the mixture for half a minute, then set the concrete mixer at an angle of 60 degrees (this will prevent the sand and cement from sticking to the wet walls), fill in the cement and the remaining half of the sand;
• lower the concrete mixer to 35-45 degrees and add the remaining water. If, after two minutes of operation of the concrete mixer, no unmixed sand is visible, unload the concrete mixer.

It is advisable to load the concrete mixer by half the volume, since a large load lengthens the time for high-quality preparation of concrete.

The concrete mixer must be placed next to the formwork, the productivity of concrete work increases

The composition of the concrete that we used for the foundation (in volume fractions):

• 1 - cement (PC-400);
• 6 - crushed stone;
• 3 - sand;
• 0.7 - water
• 0.1 percent by weight of cement is a plasticizing additive.

For the production of more frost-resistant concrete, as well as for more convenient installation, we used a plasticizing additive - liquid household soap (10 ml for each bucket of cement).

If you do not have a concrete mixer, concrete can also be prepared by hand. This is done like this:

• a container of about 100 liters is taken (in the absence - a steel sheet of at least 1.5x1.5 m);
• 1 container (bucket) of cement and 3 containers of sand are poured into the container, which are mixed with a garden rake;
• 10 ml of liquid soap and water are poured into the bucket almost to the top. It is important that the soap forms a rich lather. The more it is, the better the concrete is plasticized, the easier it will be to knead and lay;
• water is mixed with cement and sand;
• 6 containers of rubble are poured onto the resulting solution, after which the mixture is mixed.

It takes about 30 minutes to mix 100 liters of concrete. Concrete mixed in this way is about 20% less durable than that obtained in a concrete mixer due to the larger amount of water (if you pour less water, manual mixing is very difficult). However, for concreting our foundation for a fence made of corrugated board, this quality of concrete is sufficient.

After pouring, exposed concrete should be covered with plastic wrap to prevent the surface from drying out too quickly. In warm weather (about 25 degrees), stripping should be done after a week.

We collect the steel frame of the fence

Before starting welding of the fence frame, the profile pipes are set at a level

If the concrete has stood in the formwork for two days, the assembly of the frame can be started. The assembly is carried out using arc welding from shaped pipes 20x40x2 mm.

A frame for a fence made of corrugated board can be assembled as follows:

• cut profile pipes into sections of the required length;
• apply pipe attachment marks on the vertical posts (30 cm from the edge of the fence);
• one by one, attach the pipes to the supports and grab them by welding on one side in the area of ​​the marks;
• check the position of the pipe using a level;
• weld.

The frame on which the corrugated board fence is mounted is more convenient to assemble together. A welding inverter with a maximum power of 6.2 kW is used for welding. If a circuit breaker is triggered during welding (usually in a private house, switches greater than 15 A are not installed), a switch designed for high power should be installed during welding.

On a section of the fence with a length of about 15 m, welding work lasted about two hours.

After welding, the steel frame must be painted, for example, with alkyd enamel. If the metal has not yet been covered with a dense layer of rust, it is possible not to apply rust converters before painting.

Building brick pillars

Facing bricks are used in the construction of posts. For the work, you can attract a bricklayer with experience.

Here is an approximate order of work for further construction work:

• purchase and delivery of bricks;
• order of corrugated board (custom-made corrugated board is made in a week);
• brick laying (for the fence in question, this is four days);
• delivery and installation of sheets of corrugated board.

Brick laying is carried out on a cement-sand mortar (1 to 3) with the addition of liquid soap. During the working day, the master raises the posts to a height of 0.5 (in turn). In the process of masonry, the gap between the bricks and the steel post is poured with mortar. Additional reinforcement to the masonry is given by reinforcement with a steel mesh 50x50x4 mm.

The last stage of decoration is the installation of covers on the fence posts. After that, the columns will acquire additional expressiveness, and their ends will be reliably protected from moisture.

The most popular types of covers for decorative posts

After installing the covers, the corrugated fence looks much more solid. The material for the manufacture of decorative covers is painted or galvanized steel, as well as concrete. Metal covers last as long as corrugated board, and the durability of concrete covers strongly depends on the quality of the starting material. High quality concrete covers can last over 15 years.

Of the colored caps, the best colored with mineral pigment. Over time, it will not wash off and paint colors will not fade.

Installation of concrete covers is carried out on a cement-sand mortar, and steel covers using dowels.

We mount the corrugated board on the frame

After the construction of the posts, you can mount the corrugated board. Installation requires two workers. In order not to scratch the bottom end of the corrugated board, cardboard is laid on the concrete of the foundation. Before installation, marks are applied to the corrugated board with a black marker for self-tapping screws.

To the profile pipe 20x40x23 mm, the corrugated board is attached using an electric drill and galvanized roofing screws 4.8x30 mm with mandatory rubber gaskets. Sheets of corrugated board are overlapped.

Fastening is done through one wave at the bottom of the corrugation. Thus, for the installation of 1 m of corrugated board, six self-tapping screws are needed. When screwing, it is better to set the drill at low speeds, since at high speeds the cutting edge of the self-tapping screw will be very hot and grind off.

The construction of such a fence by two builders takes about two weeks (no downtime). The cost of a 9-meter fence with six brick pillars was 36 thousand rubles, that is, 4 thousand rubles per linear meter. Detailed costs for the construction of a fence made of corrugated board are shown in Table 2.

Decking is extremely lightweight, does not require time and labor for installation. Relatively cheap, durable - the service life is 25-30 years, does not require maintenance for the entire period of operation. Installation work can be performed by 1 person without assistants. Attractive for site owners who want to do the work with their own hands, without hiring a hired labor force.

What is this article about

Instruments

To build a fence made of corrugated board you will need:

• Concrete mixer;
• Shovels shovel and bayonet;
• Stretcher or garden wheelbarrow;
• Angle grinder (grinder);
• Drill head for cutting metal profiles ("Cricket", "Steel beaver", "Malko");
• Drill with a set of drills for metal ";
• Screwdriver with a bit for roofing screws;
• Metal scissors;
• Level (water, construction (not less than 1000 mm), laser);
• Cord mooring.

In some cases, a welding machine may be required.

Operational properties of a fence made of profiled sheet

Pofnastil is just a thin sheet, 0.5 mm thick. It is easily cut with scissors for metal, bends from a kick with a foot, is attached to self-tapping screws from the outer (front) side. Unscrewing the screw is a matter of a few seconds.

The protective properties of the corrugated board fence are low. It performs a decorative and psychological function, but is completely unbreakable. If protection is needed, it is better to build a solid brick or forged fence.

Fence project

Project example:

The construction of a fence made of corrugated board requires preliminary calculations and design. This is due to the dimensions of the sheets, which are more profitable to use as a whole - along the entire length or width, without cutting. Based on the size of the sheets, the distance between the support pillars of brick is calculated. The height of the fence is also limited by the standard dimensions of the sheet length. Particular attention should be paid to span widths in areas with frequent strong winds.

Profiled sheeting is a material that is not resistant to mechanical stress. In strong winds, the fence often breaks into the attachment points and overturns.

Brick pillars are not only decorative. They allow you to reliably fix the corrugated board within the span. If the fence is arranged with a parapet, the guarantee of the metal sheet's resistance to mechanical damage increases many times over.

Foundation and masonry

For brickwork, it depends on which fence project you choose. If the supporting elements - the pillars are not interconnected with a brick parapet - then the most economical - columnar foundation is used, which requires a minimum of material costs (cement mortar, reinforcement).

When constructing more monumental structures - fences with a parapet, it is required to arrange a strip foundation. Some builders find a way out that a metal channel is welded between the support columns. The brickwork of the parapet is laid out on it. This allows you to reduce excavation, the laborious process of formwork, tying or welding of the reinforcing cage and pouring concrete.

Cut open

After the construction of the pillars, it is the turn of the installation of the lathing for fastening. Depending on the project of the fence, the lathing can be made horizontal - two corners (pipes) fixed between brick columns parallel to the ground or combined.

Vertical - if there is a brick parapet. Vertical racks (pipe d-40-50 mm) are installed on it with an interval of 0.8-1 meter, to which horizontal elements of the crate are additionally attached - a corner or pipes of the same diameter.

Effective, fast and inexpensive - is the welding of structural elements with a welding machine. (If he has and has the skills to produce welding works).

Alternatively, fastening is carried out using clamps, drilling holes and ties with bolts and self-tapping screws. (Troublesome, but does not require connecting a welding machine).

Sheets of metal profiles, with rare exceptions, try not to cut. To do this, the width of the spans is selected in such a way that the sheet completely overlaps the span, or 2-3 sheets (taking into account the overlap in 1 wave) completely cover the span.

If it becomes necessary to cut a profile sheet, the manufacturer categorically does not recommend using an abrasive cut-off wheel for sheets painted with enamels or coated with polymer coatings. It creates scale on the surface, which quickly corrodes and irreversibly spoils the metal profile.

The most efficient and fastest way is to cut with a screwdriver attachment. Electrically driven slitting shears do not leave burrs or scale on the metal surface. The cutting edge is always perfectly straight. It is easy to work with them both along the corrugation and across. The design allows them to be used in any direction.

If there is no such attachment, you can use a jigsaw by installing a metal file in it. The length of the file should be 20–30 mm longer than the height of the sheet profile.

When cutting with a jigsaw, it is important to fix the edge of the sheet by clamping it with clamps so that the sheet does not vibrate. The cut is smooth, but with burrs.

Manual scissors for metal - an extreme option, when saving on the tool wins the arguments of reason.

Mounting

A sheet of metal profile is applied to the crate at the required distance from the upper edge of the parapet. After that, with a paint cord with dry paint, a line is broken along the horizontal element (corner, pipe) of the sheathing. A drill with a drill for metal is used, with which holes are drilled with a diameter of 1 mm less than the diameter of the roofing screws.

The length of the self-tapping screw is chosen as small as possible. In metal, they are held perfectly and the likelihood that the self-tapping screw will break out under the influence of the wind is minimal.

Be sure to use standard self-tapping screws equipped with a rubber gasket. Tighten to such an extent to achieve a snug fit of the screw head to the washer and the gasket, but the gasket should not deform (protrude) from under the washer. The standard attachment frequency is through 1 profile wave.