How and how best to caulk a bathhouse: a comparison of materials and an operating procedure. Caulking a log house: methods - traditional and modern, technology of work, subtleties The better to caulk a bath

Wooden log buildings are characterized by plasticity, a tendency to multiple changes in configuration and volume during shrinkage and operation. The condition of the log house is also influenced by weather conditions, features of operation, construction time of the building and features of wood protection. In this regard, the standards provide for primary as well as repeated caulking.

Features and reasons

Caulking is the process of sealing joints and cracks between logs in a log house or log building. The main purpose of this process is to increase the thermal efficiency of the building. It is carried out by filling the gaps with special seals.

Caulking can be done after all construction (including roofing) work has been completed, or in the process of assembling the walls.

Caulking allows you to solve a number of the following tasks:

• warming the premises and (as a result) reducing the cost of heating the building from the inside;
• elimination of gaps and cracks that appeared on the walls as a result of deformation and shrinkage of wood;
• preventing the formation of condensation on the walls as a result of the difference between the temperatures outside and inside the building;
• protection of wood from decay.

The first caulking is carried out immediately after the completion of the roofing work, the second after the initial shrinkage of the building, after 6-12 months. After 3-5 years, a second caulking is carried out, since it is during this time period that the wood shrinks completely.

You need to carry out work in the warm season. Winter is not suitable for this because the process will become even more laborious, besides, the tree almost does not shrink during this period.

Houses and saunas must be insulated on both sides; outbuildings can only be sealed from the outside.

Materials (edit)

All materials for mezhventsovy insulation are divided into 2 categories. They are natural and artificial.

Natural

There are different natural materials, and they all have certain advantages. Let's take a closer look at their features.

Tow

It is one of the cheapest materials, which, unfortunately, cannot boast of efficiency. The thing is that tow absorbs moisture, as a result of which the heat loss of the building increases.

The material is based on linen fibers. Depending on their quality, the insulation can be baled or rolled. The latter has short and stiff fibers, which makes styling difficult. Bale tow is softer and more elastic, therefore it is easier to work with it. The material is difficult to work with: it is not easy to lay it in the cracks, to replace the damaged area. After warming, the seam needs to be decorated, since it looks unaesthetic. In tow, various microorganisms, moths can start.

Moss

It is an environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material for caulking, has antibacterial properties and high thermal insulation qualities. However, such material attracts the attention of birds, which draw out insulation for their nests.

Usually red or white moss is used. When self-collecting, it is better to perform such work in late autumn, immediately sorting out the raw materials after collection (you need to remove soil, litter, insects). Then the moss is dried, but not too much, otherwise it will become very fragile.

Felt

This material is made on the basis of sheep wool; for a long time it was considered one of the best mezhventsovy heaters. It's all about its low thermal conductivity, combined with high vapor permeability, soundproofing qualities, environmental friendliness, and the ability to keep out moisture. Long elastic fibers can be easily laid even in small gaps.

Among the disadvantages is susceptibility to moths, rotting. The addition of synthetic components to the felt makes it possible to level these disadvantages, but increases the cost of an already expensive material.

Flax

A material based on recycled flax fibers, characterized by high performance and non-hygroscopicity. It provides a favorable microclimate in the room, because when the humidity level rises, it absorbs excess moisture, and when it drops, it gives it away. In addition, this feature allows you to protect the wood from decay.

Due to its composition, the material is absolutely safe.

Jute

The material is made on the basis of wood fibers of an exotic tree - jute. Due to the high content of resins in the material, it literally repels water, and also provides antibacterial protection not only between the gaps, but also adjacent logs. However, a high resin content is also a disadvantage. Under their influence, the material quickly becomes hard, dries out, which leads to the appearance of cracks. This phenomenon can be avoided by mixing jute with flax.

Artificial

Among the materials of artificial origin, several options also stand out:

• Heaters based on polyester fiber. They are characterized by biostability, non-hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Available in the form of ribbons. Among the most famous manufacturers are PoliTerm (Finland) and Avatherm (Russia).

• PSUL(pre-compressed sealing tape). A material with low thermal conductivity, a feature of which is the ability to contract and expand following deformations and changes in the geometry of the wood.

• Sealants. Silicone, polyurethane or acrylic based sealants are also used for log caulking, but they are not independent seals. Their purpose is to seal cracks directly in logs, as well as apply over artificial seals. The distinguishing feature is the ability of the sealants to expand and contract in accordance with the expansion or contraction of the wood.

Requirements

The main requirement for insulation for inter-joint seams is a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. In addition, the material must be moisture resistant, since no other waterproofing and vapor-permeable layers are provided for caulking. Since the insulation is in contact with the environment, it must be resistant to winds, high and low temperatures and their abrupt changes, as well as to UV rays.

When it comes to insulating the inside of a log house, then you should choose environmentally friendly seals. They must be non-toxic, not emit hazardous compounds when exposed to high temperatures.

The biostability of a material is also an important quality associated with its durability. It is good if the seal does not attract birds, insects, does not become a home and food for rodents and microorganisms.

Considering the labor intensity and high cost, it can be noted that this material should be characterized by durability. The thermal efficiency of the sealant must be maintained for 15-20 years.

There may be several options for insulation, as already mentioned. If we talk about the methods of laying the sealant, then it can fit in the process of erecting a log house or at the end of construction work.

In the case of internal insulation, the thermal insulation of the gaps between the joints can be combined with the organization of insulation according to the principle of a ventilated frame. In this case, after the first and repeated sealing of the inter-row seams, a wooden crate is stuffed onto the surface of the log house, the step of which should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation.

Then, between the lags of the frame, a heater is attached, on top of it - sheets of drywall. An air gap of 30-50 mm is maintained between the insulation and the trim. Plasterboard sheets are plastered and decorated.

Before attaching the lathing, the surface of the log house is covered with an antiseptic. Similar actions are performed in relation to the surfaces of the lags.

Choice

The specific insulation technique depends on the type of structure and climatic features. It is believed that a new, well-built log house only needs inter-crown insulation. Additional thermal insulation from the inside will disturb the indoor climate and hide the aesthetic log walls. Baths also do not need insulation from the inside, since an additional layer of insulation will get wet, which will lead to freezing of the wall.

Primary caulking and sealing of small cracks are carried out by "stretching", while re-warming or elimination of wide cracks - by the "set" method.

Instruments

To carry out the procedure for warming inter-crown seams, the following materials and tools will be required:

• type-setting caulking- a tool that looks like a chisel, with which you can insulate gaps of various widths (from 2 to 10 cm);
• split caulk- is a thick narrow wedge for widening excessively narrow gaps, allowing them to be filled more easily and with better quality;
• flat chisel having a blade 50-60 mm wide, up to 5 mm thick - serves for laying the sealant in the corners, rounded parts of the frame;

• mallet- is a hammer made of wood, used to clog the seal;
• road builder- a kind of caulking for the formation of even rollers from a twisted heat insulator;
• hammer- they are hit on a mallet, driving the sealant into the space between the crowns;
• insulation.

Power tools, a perforator are inferior to the described tools, since they do not allow the formation of a dense roll of material, but only drive it into the slot.

Methods and technology

There are two technologies for the caulking process:

• "Stretching". It is usually used for primary sealing of seams and assumes maximum stretching of the material along the entire length of the log house. First, the first strand of insulation is laid, and on top of it is the twisted second strand. The fibers of the insulation are perpendicular to the direction of the logs, and the ends are rolled into a flat roller, which is hammered into the seam.

• "Set". The method is used to re-caulk when the house has shrunk. This method involves hammering in a small amount of insulation, a strand of which is formed into a loop. Then, with the help of a mallet or caulk, it is hammered into the gap, and the fibers of the insulation take a position perpendicular to the wood.

The process ends with a finishing seal. For this, a special tool is used - a road builder.

If you decide to dig a house or a bath with your own hands, you should be guided by the instructions. The step-by-step process looks like this:

• Cleansing the gap from dust and debris. It is convenient to use a vacuum cleaner for this.
• Preparation of insulation: roll material should be dissolved over the entire length of the log house, with a small (about 20 cm) margin. It is necessary, since in some areas the material can lie in a wave, and it should be enough for one tier.
• One of the ends of the insulation tape is hammered into the gap with a mallet.
• Then the material is hammered into the slot with a mallet and caulk. It is important to ensure that the seam is tight, there are no distortions.
• If synthetic insulation was used, a sealant is applied over it.

When the insulation is laid in the process of assembling the logs, it must be placed immediately on the first row, leaving the hanging ends of the material on both sides. Then a second crown is placed, on top of it is a heater. So the work is carried out until the very last felling. When all the work is completed, and the roof is installed, the hanging ends of the seal are driven into the gaps using caulking. It is necessary to correctly collect the hanging ends towards the center of the crown.

When laying insulation (this primarily concerns moss), it is important to ensure that it evenly lies on the surface of the logs. It is unacceptable to see them through the insulation, otherwise the chopped house will turn out to be cold. If tape insulation is used, then it is rolled out along the crown and fixed with staples. If the tape has run out, then the next roll begins to overlap (about 5 cm) to prevent the formation of gaps.

Usually the construction of a building is not the end point of the entire project. In order for the house to serve a good period of time, it is important to follow the rules of maintenance and preventive repairs. This is especially true for log buildings. One of the key points to know is how to caulk a log house.

What, why, when

A bathhouse or a house that was erected from a rounded log or log house usually shrinks. In some cases, this value can reach 15‒20 cm in the first year. This factor must be taken into account when designing. This is due to the fact that some of the moisture is lost and drying out occurs. During the course of this process, loose junctions of the material may appear where everything seemed to be sufficiently tight before. To compensate for this unpleasant fact, it will be necessary to seal the seams. Simply put, this is an event that is aimed at sealing cracks to prevent drafts, as well as reduce heat loss. Caulking should be done after complete shrinkage, which occurs within 6-7 months.

The better

In order to make the process of sealing a log house as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to acquire not only a good tool, but also a suitable material, and also have an idea of ​​how to use them correctly. Of the devices we need:

• Cauliflower... This is a small device that looks like a chisel or chisel. Usually, at least two types are required for high-quality tasks. One of them is called typesetting. The width of its blade can reach 10 cm. Thanks to it, you can quickly pass large areas. The second will be smaller, about 2‒3 cm. It will be needed when sealing the corner joints. Skillful craftsmen use a curve tool that allows you to do the job much better, but requires special skill.
• The material with which the gaps will be filled... Previously, only natural fibers were used for these purposes. Today, synthetic materials have already been invented, as well as various sealants.
• Hammer... In this case, you can use any that is on the farm, but it is better if it is a small sledgehammer.

Some craftsmen believe that it will be more convenient to work with a wooden or rubber mallet, since the blow is soft, as a result, the logs are not damaged. Opinions may differ, so everyone chooses the most suitable tool for himself.

Moss

For these purposes, marsh red moss is used. This is one of the most sustainable methods. It serves as a kind of antiseptic that prevents rotting. It has been used for centuries. This material allows the wood to breathe well. Do not lay it too wet, you need to let it dry a little.

If this is not done, then this can lead to the fact that the joints will begin to rot and the structure will become unusable. But laying it dry is also not recommended. In this state, it will easily crumble, and subsequently will not be able to hermetically close the seams. Before driving it, it is necessary to carry out certain processing. A water-based solution (10 l) is prepared, to which 500 ml of oil and 250 g of laundry soap are added. Everything is mixed until the soap is completely dissolved. After that, the moss is soaked and stacked to drain a little. For ease of roller formation, some craftsmen add tow fibers.

Tow

It is also a natural material that plumbers are very familiar with. Due to its fibrous structure, it serves as a good sealant. Some craftsmen are not very fond of this fiber. The fact is that it is quite difficult to work with him. Also, over time, the tow deteriorates, which will force you to take out its remnants and do everything again. Before laying it, it will be necessary to treat it with a special substance that will serve as an antiseptic, as well as repel insects, which can feed on both the fibers themselves and harm the wood.

An excellent material that, like moss, allows wood to breathe. It is a good filter that keeps odors out. Additional synthetic inclusions were added to the modern material, which made it even more durable. The main disadvantage of using this solution is that the moth loves to feast on felt very much. Before caulking, it is treated with special compounds that scare away this insect.

Modern material, which is 100% flax and is a production waste. It is a good seal that does not impede air circulation. Has some stiffness, which complicates the caulking process.

One of the best materials. It not only perfectly fills the cracks, but also protects the space between the crowns from moisture penetration. Birds do not use it to build their nests, so they don’t have to worry about pecking it out. It is made from the wood of the linden family. Usually it is imported from other countries. The material is soft and flexible.

Jute rope. In addition to its direct purpose, this caulk plays the role of a decorative finish.

Sealant

This is a modern method. Many manufacturers have entered this race. The material is supplied in special tubes. It is applied to the joints, after which a beautiful seam is formed.

What to opt for is the decision of everyone personally. Everything will depend on the budget, as well as on the availability of this or that material in a particular area. But it is better not to save on material.

Technology

The process of sealing mezhventsovy seams is divided into two types. They are interchangeable and, rather, complement each other.

• Stretching... This type got its name from the fact that the material is stretched along the entire seam and the fibers are intertwined. It is usually used for primary caulking. After the construction of the log house, the gaps are still quite small, so there is no point in clogging them with a thick layer of insulation and it is useless. The material is arranged with the fibers so that they are perpendicular to the logs. With the help of a tool, it is pushed into the slots. After that, the ends that remain hanging are rolled up and tamped tightly into the seam.
• Into the set... This method is used after the frame has shrunk and the cracks have become more noticeable. To do this, you will need to collect all the fibers in a heap and make ropes out of them, which are then wound into a ball. Moreover, the thickness of such a rope will have to be calculated separately for each seam, because the gaps are not the same everywhere.

After the spread of roll material, the sealing process was greatly simplified. Primary stacking is usually done immediately when laying the logs. To do this, roll material is laid on the lunar recess and fixed with a construction stapler. Next, the log is placed in its place. There is no need to carry out additional work after complete assembly.

During the initial sealing, it is important not to save material, but also not to lay it in a large layer. One strip will not be enough, so two fit. One should go next to the other, and the edges should protrude a few centimeters. This is very important to give stability to the log and to make it easier for yourself when reprocessing.

The secondary seal, which takes place at least six months later, is not the last one. After about 4-5 years, when the building is completely down, it will be necessary to process the seams again. You can be guided by the following sequence:

• We clean the seams from debris and material that has come out or worn out. You can use a vacuum cleaner to make things easier for yourself.
• Caulking should be done in a venerable way, not leniently. Those. you need to move around the circumference of each row. This is important to avoid distortion and damage to the building.
• You should start from the outside, and then go inside the building.
• The tape needs to be unwound. Its length should be 15‒20 cm longer than the wall. This is important, because in the process of compaction, folds are formed, on which this stock will go.
• Now it is important to carefully tuck one of the edges of the tape into the slot to secure it.
• Next, using a caulk and a hammer, we make a seal. To do this, raise the hanging end, turn it up and knock it down. This operation must be completed in several passes. You should not try to hammer everything at once, so a distortion may occur faster and the sealing itself will be worse. When twisting several times, a seam in the form of a rope is formed, which is dense enough not to let air through from the street.
• We repeat the operation from the inside.
• We move from the bottom (salary) crown to the top. Perhaps in the upper part it will be enough just to gently tuck the material without much effort, so as not to impede further shrinkage.

You need to be careful not to overdo it with the layer. During caulking, the frame rises. Making the pad too thick can cause the lift to exceed the size of one log. The consequence may be that the dowels will not hold up and the beams will fall out.

Sealing with a sealant is much easier. For this, a special lace of a suitable diameter is purchased. It is usually made from synthetic materials. Without effort, it fits into the seam to cover the gap. After that, mastic is applied. Its layer should be from 5 mm wide and 10 mm high. After application, the composition is sprayed with impregnation, after which it is leveled with a small spatula. In the first few days, you will have to curtain the seams from the sunny side, because usually the manufacturer advises avoiding direct sunlight until completely dry.

The sealant is also used after natural materials have been applied. It helps protect the seal from pests and animals. Inside the house, instead of sealant, it will be possible to use twine of sufficient diameter to decorate the sealed joints.

Usually, self-sealing of a log house does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require great skills. The only thing that is needed is patience, because it will take a lot of time.

Video

This video shows the caulking process with acrylic sealants:

Built of timber, laid, the roof is closed, and the windows are inserted - it's time to insulate the frame. Cracks can be caulked traditionally - with moss, modern material - jute or tow. How to do it correctly and what to prefer after all - read the article and watch the video.

How to choose the right material for insulation. Which is the best fit

It is almost impossible to answer unequivocally, the more correct it is to caulk a wooden bath. Each material has pros and cons, so you need to familiarize yourself with their characteristics, and only then make a final decision.

Moss... You can buy at a hardware store or type it yourself in the forest. Warming with its help was practiced by our grandfathers, and their experience can certainly be trusted. True, now this material is far from a favorite, because there are new ones that are more convenient to use. Nevertheless, the advantages of moss include:

• environmental friendliness;
• medicinal properties;
• profitability;
• resistance to decay;
• resistance to temperature extremes.

Of the minuses, it is necessary to highlight:

• exposure to moisture;
• fragility;
• high fire hazard;
• fragility when dry;
• laboriousness of the warming process.

Tow. It can be made from hemp, jute or flax and is sold in rolls and square blocks. The first option is more convenient, because individual strips need to be pulled out of the blocks, twisted and placed in the slot. Among the advantages of the material:

• naturalness;
• low cost.

Perhaps this is where the visible advantages of tow end. Minuses:

• difficulties in use. If over time you decide to remove the tow from the seams, you will suffer;
• attractive to mice and moths.

Advice. Tow is a kind of alternative to moss, which many experts advise to give preference to if you choose only between these two options.

Felt. It can be natural or with the addition of artificial fibers. The first is preferable because it is less fire hazardous (it burns worse). Felt advantages:

• environmental friendliness;
• ease of use.

• exposure to moisture and decay;
• high price;
• high risk of moths. In addition, often the felt becomes the object of encroachment by mice and birds, which pick it out from the seams.

Linen and flax fiber... Made from flax waste. Batting is a material with the addition of artificial fibers. It is more convenient to lay as it is produced in the form of ribbons. Flax fiber is similar to tow, so working with it takes patience. The materials do not absorb moisture and are resistant to decay. You can distinguish one from the other by color: natural flax fiber is darker than flax.

Jute. This is one of the most popular options among modern owners who build and then insulate the bath with their own hands. It is made from the wood of the linden family. Characteristics - feast for the eyes:

• high strength;
• resistance to moisture and decay;
• good thermal insulation;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of use - sold in the form of rolled strips.

Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting that jute can stick together under conditions of excessive pressure loads. True, you can try to avoid this if you choose insulation with the maximum density.

Attention! Jute and jute felt are not the same thing. The second material has the same disadvantages as any other fiber felt.

Subtleties of the caulking process

The advantages of a caulked bath are obvious: it requires less fuel, and it takes less time to warm up the premises. Therefore, despite the fact that the work is painstaking and time-consuming, it is better not to neglect it.

Bath cauldron: video

Materials for caulking a bath: photo

Putting a log house from a log or a bar is not the whole task. It is also necessary to properly dig this log house: to close up the cracks between the crowns and cracks that form when the wood shrinks. This is done so that the log house loses heat as little as possible. The quality of assembly of a log house is determined by how the crowns were laid. It is important not only to cut out the bowls and grooves correctly - between two rows of logs or beams, it is imperative to lay an inter-crown insulation.

Insulation is laid at the stage of assembling a log house

What it will be - moss, tow or jute - your business, but such a layer must be present. When folding a log house, you need to lay the insulation in two layers:

• on the lower crown so that the edges of the insulation protrude 3-5 cm beyond the edges of the bowl, the width of the insulation, in general, is taken 5-10 cm more than the width of the bowl;
• insulation is also placed in the bowl of the upper crown, its edges protrude beyond the bowl by 3-5 cm.

Please note that when using moss or tow, you do not need to “tap” the material. When tapped with a hammer or the butt of an ax, the moss fibers break, and dents form on the wood, which are directed across the fibers. Such damage can lead, in the future, to the development of foci of decay. It is enough to simply compact the fibers with your palm, leveling and probing the layer, if large foreign objects come across (cones or sticks are often found in the moss) - just remove them.

When using tape insulation, you can fix it with a construction stapler - damage to the wood from the staples is minimal, and the material is held securely. It is advisable to lay the "insulated" crowns together, so that the ball is able to take the log from both ends and lower it so as not to move the insulation.

How to caulk a bathhouse

All caulking materials can be divided into two main categories: natural (tow, hemp, moss, jute, etc.) and industrial sealants. Sealants apply faster and are easier to work with. Usually, to reduce the consumption of sealant, a cord is placed in the gap between the crowns, and only then, a sealant is applied on top of it, which, in a wet state, is leveled with a special spatula.

Synthetic sealants have several disadvantages:

• some of them do not tolerate the effects of ultraviolet radiation - when irradiated, they lose their properties, crumble and are blown out by the winds. The problem is solved by strengthening the strips that will close the seams from ultraviolet radiation;
• Some of the sealants for log cabins, when dried, form a monolith, which, when the wood expands / contracts (depending on weather conditions), interferes with the process and contributes to the destruction of adjacent wood fibers. For this reason, it makes sense to use flexible sealants.

EUROTEX elastic joint sealant for wood

The video shows how to use Eurotex sealant.

As shown in the video above, you can use a regular tablespoon as a tool to level and remove excess sealant.

If you decide to use one of the sealants, carefully read the instructions and description, make sure that it is compatible with the type of wood from which the frame was built, can be used in your region (temperature regime) and has the necessary qualities.

The use of sealant is justified in the case when it is used to seal the caulked gaps: after double caulking of the log house with tow, moss or jute, the complete shrinkage of the log house is expected and the acquisition of operational dimensions, after which a cord is laid in the seams, and then the sealant is applied.

Natural materials for caulking also have their advantages and disadvantages, in addition, each of them needs some preparation.

Moss

The most proven material for caulking a bath is moss. It has been used for centuries. Many other materials have appeared today, but they have not surpassed the characteristics of moss. It is more convenient to work with new (especially tape materials). This is undeniable, but the qualities of moss remained unattainable for them. The main among them is the ability to resist bacteria and high resistance to decay.

Not aesthetically pleasing, but practical

The moss is first dried, then moistened again before use. This restores elasticity to the stems. The soaked moss is laid out in an even layer so that its ends hang down on both sides of the log / bar. After harvesting the log house, too long stalks of moss are cut, everything else is tucked in and tucked into the cracks of the log house - the primary caulking of the log house is made. After it, six months later and after a year and a half, there are repeated caulking.

Jute

Jute is increasingly used in the construction of wooden baths and houses. And not just jute fibers, but roll material. Jute fiber has good characteristics: it has good heat-insulating properties, due to the large amount of lignin - a natural resin that serves as a binding element - it is practically not subject to decay and has low hygroscopicity. Even at high humidity, the jute remains dry to the touch.

Jute heaters can be of several types:

Tow

Tow is a waste that is formed during the primary processing of natural fibers. For caulking log cabins, tow made of jute, hemp and flax is used. The characteristics of the material and its quality depend on the raw material, the degree of purification of the fibers and their length. Building tow is pressed into square blocks. For use when caulking a log house, a strip of material is pulled out of the common block, twisted into a bundle and placed in a seam. More convenient to use is combed tow, which is sold in rolls.

It is inconvenient to work with such material: it is difficult to achieve a uniform layer when used as a mezhventsovy heater, and for caulking a log, tow has excessive rigidity, which makes it almost impossible to achieve a dense filling of the seam, the first time, and you have to periodically repeat caulking. If the choice is between moss and jute tow, then we can definitely say that moss is better for a bath - it has the ability to inhibit the development of putrefactive bacteria and fungi.

When to caulk the bath

The log house is assembled, when is it possible to caulk a fresh log house for the first time? If the blockhouse was going to moss or tow, then the remnants of material of different lengths stick out between the crowns. In this case, you can produce the primary caulking immediately: cut off too long fibers, tuck them inward and tuck into the seams. You do not need to be zealous in this. These are preliminary works, the purpose of which is to remove fibers. But this must be done following the rules of caulking. If the blockhouse is assembled on a tape insulation, nothing needs to be done.

The first "serious" caulking is carried out about six months after the collection of the log house. During this time, the logs / beams will lose most of the excess moisture, new cracks will appear, crowns and corners will basically "sit" in place. At this time, the first caulking is carried out. After this process, doors / windows can be installed.

The second caulk will be needed about a year after the first. A year and a half has passed since the construction of the log house, and the log house is well established. Now all seams and cracks are checked, all flaws are eliminated. Depending on the material and the quality of the work, it may be necessary, after another five years, to re-drill the seams. But there were cases (usually this is the result of the work of the "shabashniks") when the correction of caulking errors is carried out for several years in a row. Most often, such a need arises if the log house was built without an inter-crown insulation.

How much tow do you need for a bath

Any natural material for caulking is compressed many times during installation and a large amount of it can fit into the frame, even with good insulation between the crowns. Nobody will be able to say exactly how much tow is needed for the bath: it also depends on what material the frame is made of and how the grooves in the logs are cut. As a rule, more material is used for manual cutting of grooves. Also, a flaked log requires more material than a rounded log. Less is required for a log house from a bar, but even here the amount of tow or moss that will go to seal the cracks depends on the accuracy of the geometry of the bar and the depth / number of cracks that appeared during shrinkage.

Caulking rules

Caulking a log house is not very difficult, but long and dreary. Everything needs to be done thoroughly and slowly, so it takes a lot of time - it took 10 days to caulk a small 5 * 4 bath (it worked one hour for 7-8).

The main thing is not to overdo it in the efforts made when hammering in the insulation, which can lead to the fact that the frame will rise by 15 cm or more.

Log caulking rules:

• You need to start with the lower crown, moving along the entire perimeter, first from the outside of the building, then dig in the same crown from the inside. And only after that, start processing the next crown.
• When caulking, pay special attention to the corners - there are often the most significant gaps.
• With the initial caulking, you first need to pick up the hanging material, bend it down and tuck it into the slot. In this case, you need to use the tool as needed. This operation is performed on a section about a meter long, then proceed to the next section.
• In the same area, use a caulk and a wooden mallet (sometimes a hammer is used, but the mallet does not beat off the hands so well) to compact the material. You need to beat on the caulk until the material begins to spring. Then move on to the next section.
• After compaction, a gap formed. A piece of insulation is again placed in it. If this is tow, you need to roll a tourniquet of the required thickness out of it or tear off a piece of the required length from the tape. This piece is also hammered with caulk and mallet until a springy effect appears. Repeat this operation until the gap is completely filled and proceed to the next section.

As with every business, caulking requires certain skills. Since there is more than one such procedure, as a result, you will have skills. As you gain experience, you will notice the flaws that you made at the beginning of the activity - here you will have a chance to eliminate them. Actually, it is not the gods who burn the pots, but it is possible to dig a log house with more or less high quality even in the absence of experience.

How to caulk the bath correctly: with moss, flax fiber, tow, felt

Caulking any wooden bath must be done in two stages: after the completion of construction and after a year of shrinkage. For work, the same insulation is used, which is laid between the links during construction. Traditionally, baths are used for caulking: moss, felt, tow, hemp. How to properly caulk a bath with your own hands, what tools are needed and the subtleties of the work, readers will learn by studying the article to the end.

Features of caulking baths with various materials

When assembling the bath box, a heater is laid between each log or bar. But wood shrinks regardless of the drying chamber material or natural moisture. When shrinking, a space appears between the logs, so it is necessary to dig the bath for the first time in order to seal the seam and the second time to eliminate the formed cracks.

Caulking a bathhouse is easier with special tools: caulking and a rubber mallet or mallet. If there is no caulk, then you can use a regular chisel.

What material is better for caulking a bath?

For the caulking of the steam room, natural insulation is used: moss, hemp, tow, felt. All materials are available, but each must first be prepared in its own way.

Preparing moss for caulking

Warming the seams with moss is a traditional method used by our grandfathers. Moss can be collected on your own or purchased ready-made in a hardware store.

The price of moss is from 250 rubles, so it is cheaper to collect in the forest. The collected moss is laid out under a canopy and left to dry for 1–2 weeks. It is necessary to stir the moss every 2-3 days so that it does not rot. Using damp moss will lead to mold growth and damage to the wood. But it is necessary to monitor drying, as overdried moss will be fragile and difficult to work with.

Pros of moss:

• Profitability (you can dial for free in the forest).
• Natural, which means that environmental friendliness is not violated.

The material has more cons:

• It becomes brittle when dry.
• It is difficult to caulk a bath.
• It is afraid of moisture and mold.
• Short-lived.
• Burns well.

Choosing moss to caulk the log house is only necessary as an economy. From the point of view of practicality and durability, it is better to pay attention to something else.

Preparing caulking felt

Felt is a natural material based on wool. But modern felt can be made up of fumigated fibers. Moreover, the composition is: 60% wool and 40% artificial fiber, 70% artificial fiber and 30% wool. For the bath, choose completely natural felt or felt with a high wool content. The fact is that natural material does not burn, but simply smolders. Artificial felt is fire hazardous.

Before work, the felt must be treated with a formalin solution, it will not allow the moths to dissolve in the wool. After spraying, the felt is hung in the sun and dried thoroughly.

The main advantages of felt are:

• Naturalness.
• Caulking a log house is easy.

• Natural material is afraid of moisture and rots.
• Mice and birds love to use felt to build their nests, and gouge material out of cracks in a log house.
• The high price of natural insulation.

Preparing tow for caulking a bath

It is not necessary to cook the tow especially before work. But moths and other insects like to settle in natural material, so the tow is impregnated with any protective compound, for example, formalin.

The main advantages of using tow:

• Low price.
• Natural material.
• Ease of operation.

• Afraid of moisture.
• Over time, it may start to rot.
• Mice settle in insulation.

Tow is an alternative to moss, since the price of the material starts from 70 rubles.

Jute and flax fiber for caulking a bath

Modern insulation options: jute and flax fiber can also be used to caulk a log house. But despite the manufacturer's assurances about the naturalness of heaters, most of them contain artificial additives. They make jute and flax fibers durable, but their environmental friendliness is reduced.

Natural jute is made from the bast of the linden family. Jute has high strength, durability and moisture resistance. Water, getting on the material, does not linger on the jute fibers, but quickly disappears.

Flax fiber is made from flax waste. The material has performed well on construction sites. Does not rot or absorb moisture. But there are pitfalls, sellers offer the buyer flax wool instead of flax fiber. The materials are similar in composition, but the batting has 40% artificial fiber. You can distinguish one from another by color, linen is light, and the fibers of natural insulation are darker.

Available in the form of a tape, cord. To caulk the log house of a bath, tape jute or flax fiber is used.

It is necessary to caulk the log house of your bath with insulation that meets your requirements and capabilities.

Caulking the bath is necessary in two stages:

• immediately after mounting the box;
• after shrinkage of the bath.

It is difficult to caulk a log house from a profiled bar again, since the lock will not allow the work to be carried out efficiently. Therefore, it is better to take material with a profile in a chamber drying or glued one. So, shrinkage will be minimal and you will not have to caulk again. All other types: logs, simple beams, cylinders need to be caulked again. It is necessary to work with special tools, as shown in the video:

Tools for the job

To caulk a log house, various types of caulking are used:

• typesetting;
• curve;
• broken;

A mallet (muskel) is also needed. The tool is used to hit the caulk during work. The mallet can be replaced with a regular rubber mallet. We need a road builder, the tool helps to level the seam after punching with caulkers.

What subtleties you need to know when caulking a bath

Caulking the walls of the bath is necessary from the bottom to the top along the entire perimeter. Moreover, the work is performed first by prokonopovat one row from the inside and outside, then the second, etc. The fact is that when caulking the bath rises by 5-15 cm. If you do not work consistently, the structure will warp. Caulking the bottom groove around the entire perimeter, outside and inside, then the second, the bath structure will rise smoothly and evenly.

It is necessary to take care of the chimney before caulking the log house. The pipe is released at the joints with the ceiling and roof or removed for a while so as not to damage it.

You can caulk a bath in two ways:

• in a set;
• stretching.

Let's consider each in more detail.

Sauna caulking set

Caulking into the set is necessary when sealing large cracks and grooves. The selected material is twisted into a bundle of 15–20 mm and, for convenience, is wound into a small ball. The tourniquet is placed in the gap and hammered with caulk and mallet, as in the photo.

First from above, then from below. They align everything with a road builder.

Bath caulking, stretching

The insulation does not need to be twisted into a bundle. It is simply shoved into the gap between the links, and then punched with a mallet. Work is carried out until the insulation ceases to fit between the logs of the bathhouse.

It is necessary to caulk the blockhouse slowly, carefully sealing each gap. Places where it is difficult to get with a tool are simply foamed with polyurethane foam.

We answered the question of how to properly caulk a bath using various methods. After the bathhouse has finished caulking, it must be sanded and covered with protective compounds. We will talk about this next time.

Bath caulking: step by step instructions

The choice of material for caulking a bathhouse

1. Flax... Differs in environmental friendliness and high heat-shielding performance. Absorbs moisture and releases it. Attach the tape with a construction stapler. Among the shortcomings, one can single out a short service life (up to three years). To prevent insects from starting up, it is treated with a special chemical solution. This has a negative effect on the atmosphere of the steam room.
2. Hemp, linen, jute tow... Eco-friendly material. Popular for its insulating and antiseptic properties. However, it absorbs moisture, and therefore its service life is up to three years. After which it is very difficult to remove it from the gap between the joints. It is more convenient and faster to lay the combed tow.
3. Jute... Durable, moisture-resistant, environmentally friendly, heat-insulating and rot-resistant material. It comes in several forms. Jute tow is not dense and tough enough. Laying is time consuming and needs to be done several times. Jute felt is dense and flexible. Before caulking, you need to treat it with a solution from decay and the appearance of moths. Flax-jute has all the disadvantages of flax. Therefore, it is not recommended for insulation.
4. Forest, white and red marsh moss... It has been used for several centuries due to its antiseptic and bioactive characteristics. It does not rot, does not contribute to the reproduction of microorganisms, quickly absorbs moisture and at the same time is environmentally friendly. The only drawback is the complexity of the installation. When choosing a moss, pay attention to its moisture content. It should not be completely wet or too dry. Moss the moss before caulking. The procedure for such insulation must be repeated 6 months after construction and after a year and a half.
5. Hermetic composition... It is easy and convenient to work with such material. It can be matched to the color of the frame. It is produced in different forms. A soft sealant is squeezed out of the tube into the gap. A cord made of foamed polyethylene is pushed into the space between the crowns and opened with varnish. The briquettes are also squeezed into the gap with an electric sealant gun. Among the disadvantages, one can single out the transformation of the material into a monolithic substance. When the logs are deformed, it damages the fibers. This can be avoided by using flexible sealants.

Ways to caulk the walls of the bath

• Stretching... We hammer a strand of insulation with one side into the gap. We bend the other side and tamp it inward.
• In the set... We put a strand of heat-insulating material with a thickness of 1.5 cm into loops and hammer each one across the gap with a broken caulk. We seal the top with a road builder.

Bath caulking technology with moss

1. We make a solution. We dilute vegetable oil (0.5 l) and soap (200 grams) in a bucket of water.
2. We moisten the moss in the solution.
3. We twist the ends of the heat insulator into a kind of roller and tamp it tightly into the gap.
4. We apply a spatula to the insulation and tap it with a mallet.
5. We start caulking from the bottom seam. We process it around the perimeter of the bath and only after that we begin to caulk the second one.

Instructions for caulking a bath of tow

• We make a formalin solution (antiseptic).
• Soak tow in it for 30 minutes.
• We drive the insulation into the gap between the joints with the help of tools.
• We tap with a mallet on the shoulder blade in order to tamp the material as tightly as possible.

Method for caulking a bath with jute

1. We prepare the material for work. Soak it if necessary.
2. We twist the jute into strands and hammer them into the gap between the joints of the lower seam.
3. We drive the edges with caulking.
4. Align the seam with a road builder.
5. We successively go to each tier.

Bath caulking with synthetic sealant

• We put a sealing cord in the gaps and cracks.
• We fill all the gaps around the perimeter with sealant in layers. For this we use a mounting gun.
• Carefully apply the mixture to the cut corners.
• We spray all the seams between the joints with water.
• Smooth out the sealant with a spatula or brush.
• Remove excess from the beams using a damp cloth.

Methods for caulking a wooden log house: learning how to properly save heat

For squared and log buildings, there is a traditional and effective method to retain the accumulated internal heat. It is the insulation of the corners and seams of the frame with heat-insulating materials. This process is called caulking or caulking.

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of such an operation, so it is important to know how to caulk a log house.

Caulking technology and methods

To insulate the log house, it is necessary to carry out the caulking procedure at least twice. The first time this is done immediately after its assembly, the second - after the initial shrinkage of the log building occurs, after about one year.

After a few years, a third caulking is sometimes made in order to make the thermal insulation more effective, because during this time the structure will finally sit down.

For better insulation, the operation must be carried out not only outside, but also inside the building. Remember that during the work the log house rises by about 5-7 cm. As a result, you need to caulk the house or the bathhouse before finishing the premises.

It is worth noting that a qualified craftsman can correct the resulting distortion of the log house with only one caulking machine.

It is advisable to carry out work along the perimeter of the log building, starting the process from the lower rims and moving to the top. If you work in a different sequence, for example, separately insulate each of the walls, then a log skew may occur.

And now about how to properly caulk a log house. There are two types of this operation:

• When the grooves between the logs are narrow and small, then the "stretching" method is used
• Wide voids and cracks are caulked into a set

When caulking "in a stretch", a strand is formed from the heat-insulating material. It is applied across the fibers to the joint and pushed deep into it either with your hands or with a special spatula, which is called caulk.

This must be done in such a way that 5-6 cm of material remains free. Then a roller is made of tow, it is wrapped in the free edge of the heat-insulating material, applied to the seam and tightly clogged with caulk.

In the "set" method, long strands are twisted from tow. They are wound into a ball, loops are then drawn from it, which are pushed into the inter-crown joints.

Using a spatula, first hammer in the insulation at the top of the seam, and then at the bottom. The number of loops that are driven in, depending on the size of the joints to be filled. In order for the seam to be even and look neat, then you can seal it with a special tool - a road builder.

Advice from the master!

Particular attention must be paid to the corners of the log house. It is very inconvenient to work on them. Because of this, it is so important to concentrate and carefully handle these places.