Country paths. How to make a garden path using a form: step by step instructions. Wood in a wide variety of forms

Summer residents with great enthusiasm began to ennoble their cherished six hundred square meters with comfortable houses, beautiful gazebos, barbecues. Well-trodden paths are increasingly giving way to specially made garden paths. In the article, we will tell you how to make such paths from various materials (concrete, wood, brick, tile), consider inexpensive and high-budget options, demonstrate video and photo instructions.

Layout

For small areas, do not plan straight paths or intersecting paths at an angle of 90 °. This arrangement will visually reduce an already small area. If necessary, change the location of the beds for this. Connect all the dacha buildings and the most visited places.

Note! When planning, draw a network of future paths and exclude them from intersecting in the center of the lot. Select the material for them in accordance with the general landscape.

Surface preparation

Pay special attention to the marking and preparation of the soil for laying the selected material. List of work required:

1. With the help of pegs and strong twine, according to the plan, we mark the contours of the passages.
2. With a well-sharpened shovel, carefully remove the sod so that the edges are not torn. The resulting strip 10 cm deep is filled with sand.
3. The material selected for construction is placed on a carefully compacted sand cushion.

Stone

Stone paths are suitable for any garden landscape. The stone is selected so that one of its sides is as flat as possible.

1. The depth of the strip is 20 cm.
2. In the prepared strip, a sand cushion is arranged, on which a stone is placed.
3. The seams are filled with ordinary sand and watered with water. If necessary (the sand settles), the filling procedure is repeated until the aggregate is flush with the stone surface.

Log cuts

1. Wooden cuts are preliminarily prepared, at least 10 cm thick.
2. To protect against moisture, double impregnation with boiling linseed oil is made.
3. A plastic wrap is laid on the sand cushion. It will protect wooden parts from rotting when in contact with the ground.
4. Prepared wooden elements are laid on a pillow, and the gaps between them are covered with sand, fine gravel or gravel.

Paving stones

Paving stones are an excellent durable material for creating garden paths. She is not afraid of temperature changes, moisture, withstands heavy loads. The paving sequence is as follows:

1. dig a strip 20 cm deep;
2. Lay the cobblestones tightly on the sandy pillow. Install curbs along the edges of the path;
3. paving stones can be laid in different ways - obliquely, with bandaging, squares shifted relative to each other, etc.

Concrete

Concrete walkways are reliable and durable. They are done like this:

1. In the prepared trench, the first layer is laid with small stones and poured with cement mortar. If you want to have a path that rises above the soil, mount the formwork and pour the solution into it.
2. Concrete can be decorated with mosaics, pieces of colored glass, natural beautiful stones. To do this, they must be pressed into the not yet frozen solution.

Note! The strength of concrete depends on the grade of cement.

Brick

Clinker brick paths look great on summer cottages. It is more expensive than red, but it is more reliable and durable. You can lay out various regular patterns with bricks, this will make the track more expressive. You can lay on a mortar and a sand pillow. If a brick is also used as a curb, then the use of a solution is mandatory.

Gravel

If you need to make a long, winding path and are on a tight budget, make it out of gravel. This is the most affordable option for the price. Such a path will not differ in durability and ability to withstand heavy loads, but it is perfect for walking.

Note! To limit the "spreading" of gravel to the sides, curbs are installed. Gravel paths will require additional maintenance - weed removal and periodic gravel refilling.

Regardless of the path option chosen, the garden area will undoubtedly transform and become much more comfortable.

Photo

The whole design largely depends on how the paths on the suburban area will be decorated. Even in such conditions, when it is not possible to perform labor-intensive and expensive work, you can choose more affordable options that have been developed and already tested by folk craftsmen.

Do-it-yourself paths in the country can be made from a variety of materials by choosing the appropriate option from the ones presented below. For example, ordinary bricks or round timber, sawn from logs, round, medium-sized pebbles or ordinary corks from plastic bottles are perfect for these purposes. There are also removable options for tracks that can fit exclusively in the summer. By the way, such tracks can also not only be purchased ready-made, but also made independently.

In any case, before laying any garden paths, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

Design on paper

First of all, you need to place a schematic house, outbuildings on the plan, connecting them together and paving the way to the entrance gate - these will be the main paths, which you cannot do without in any case.

Then, you need to plan the paths leading from the house to various areas of the site, for example, to the gazebo, pool, playground or to the zone.

If there is a need, then, bringing the path to the garden or vegetable garden, it is worth branching it in such a way that it is convenient to get to every corner of the site in any weather, since the absence of paths is especially unpleasant for moving on "bare" ground during or immediately after rain ...

After the project is drawn up, you can transfer it to the site.

Marking on the ground

To determine the width and direction of the tracks, it is necessary to make markings on the ground. This is especially important if they will be kept in certain dimensions in width - for example, laid out from ready-made tiles or bricks.

The marking is carried out using driven pegs and a cord pulled over them. To make it easier to visually figure out what the direction will look like, and whether the path is wide enough, each border on the sides can be slightly sprinkled with lime.

The best option is if, together with the path, immediately mark the location of the plants that will frame it, since everything looks a little different on the ground than in the project.

At the planting sites of bushes and trees, which will be located along the path, you can set up signs or spread stones, and mark the boundaries of future flower beds with lime.

It must be remembered that the pit to be torn off should be somewhat wider than the path itself, since in order for it to serve for many years, it must be protected on both sides with stone or concrete curbs. Whatever material it is planned to build a track, such a preparatory part will in any case increase the quality of work and allow the laid track to function for a long time.

Having made the markup, you can start preparatory earthworks.

Preparing the base for the garden path

So that the path does not crumble after a year or overgrow with grass with the same sad outcome, serious preparatory work needs to be done. It should be remembered that the path should have a slight slope in one or both directions. In addition, a small trench is made on the side of the slope, into which water will drain during rain.

• First of all, a fertile layer, 15 ÷ 200 mm thick, is removed from the places where the track will pass. In order for the depth of the pit to be approximately the same along its entire length, it is necessary to control its sides with a ruler.

• Further, in order to preserve the evenness of the edges of the future path, boards are installed inside, along the entire length of the walls of the pit, but it is advisable to first pour and compact a little sand under them.
• If the pit is limited to concrete curbs, then their width should be 70 ÷ 100 mm greater than the height of the pit walls. The curbs are set according to the level, and so that they do not move, they are fixed with reinforcing rods, which are driven into the ground inside the trench, next to the curbs. The length of the rods should be from 250 to 350 mm, and this segment should be hammered by 200 ÷ 300 mm. The pin remaining above the surface of the ground will hold the curb in the desired position.

• If the walls of the pit turned out to be uneven due to excessively loose soil, then reinforcing pins will also have to be driven along the walls, and then set, pressing the curbs against them, setting them in level and also fixing on the other side pins.

• Further, at the bottom of the pit, crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand or cement is poured. can be from 50 to 100 mm after tamping.

• After backfilling and distribution over the pit, the resulting surface is periodically moistened and carefully tamped.

The type of filled material will largely depend on the total thickness of the "pillow", on the type of top decorative coating. Also, do not forget that between the "pillow" and the upper cladding, more often than not, there must still be a layer of sand.

Varieties of garden paths for a suburban area

As mentioned above, paths can be made of different materials. It is worth considering the installation of some of them in order to accurately determine the choice of the most suitable option.

Brick path

A sufficiently reliable, durable and aesthetic path is obtained from bricks. It is laid out, in principle, using the same technology as paving slabs or. In order for such a track to serve for a long time, you need to choose high-quality clinker bricks and to carry out work very neat.

• The base for the path, with a compacted top sand layer, must be well leveled using a homemade rule.

The rule is made from a board with perfectly flat and smooth end sides. The board should be 200 mm longer than the width of the path. The corners of the bottom of the board are cut to the thickness of the brick. Upper, longer, uncut parts boards, will serve as an emphasis and limiter when leveling the sand layer.

• When the entire sand layer is leveled, you can start installing the side bricks in the path, which are installed on the edge and driven into the sand half the width with a rubber hammer.

• If a curb is not provided in the device of the path, then the side bricks are fastened together with a solution, and after it has solidified and removed, they must be fixed from the outside with reinforcing pins, and then arrange a bed of crushed stone, which will need to be carefully tamped.
• After installing the side bricks on both sides of the path, you need to decide what pattern the middle of the path will be laid out in. The brick can be installed on the end or laid on its wide side.

• To make the masonry rigid, you need to lay one row along and another across the path, driving bricks into the sand one level in height with the framing. However, in order for the path to be as reliable as possible, it is advised to fasten the bricks together with a cement-based glue solution intended for outdoor work - this will also reduce the risk of grass growing in the cracks between the bricks.

It is advisable to lay the solution in such a way that it does not protrude from above, but remains inside the masonry, which means that not too much of it will be required.

• After completing the masonry of the path, the gaps between the bricks are filled with sand. To do this, it spills out onto the path and with a long-bristled brush is first distributed over one area, then in another way - and so on until all the gaps are completely filled.

The remaining excess sand is swept away from the surface with the same brush.

• Further, when the path is almost ready, the formwork from the boards is removed from its sides. On the outer edge of the path, crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured and carefully compacted, and another layer of crushed stone is freely poured on top of it.
• For the brightness of the color and the extension of its service, it is recommended to treat the brick with a penetrating primer, and after it dries, to cover it with a varnish that is suitable for stone in outdoor conditions.

With some assumption, a variety of such tracks can be considered those that are laid out from thick ones. How the process takes place is shown in detail in the video.

Paving stone prices

Paving stones

Video: master class on laying a garden path

Round timber path

Option number 1

To "pave" the path with posts, you must take a dried tree of one of the hard species. The round timber must have a flat surface, so they must be cut very carefully.

Then the surface of the hemp is cleaned and leveled.

• For the construction of the path, logs of different diameters are taken, so that it turns out to fill the pit space as tightly as possible.

The height of the round timber should be twice the height of the pit walls, counting from the compacted rubble, that is, the posts should rise above the surface of the soil located around the future path by 100 ÷ 130 mm.

• When the block blocks are prepared, it is necessary to treat their lower part with an antiseptic, which will protect the wood from biological pests and the negative effects of ground moisture on it.

It is best to do this by placing the hemp in turn in a container with liquid and leaving it for 3 ÷ 4 minutes. The rest of the surface is simply applied with a wide brush. Before installing the paths in the pit, the round timber is thoroughly dried.

• After drying, the hemp is dipped in “Kuzbass varnish” for a few seconds - it perfectly protects the wood from moisture. However, the disadvantage of this composition is that its structure is destroyed by exposure to ultraviolet rays and overheating. Nevertheless, if only the lower part of the hemp is processed with it, which will be closed by the wall of the pit, sand, geotextile and crushed stone, then such destructive effects are not threatened.

As a substitute for varnish, ordinary heated tar can serve, which, when cooled, forms a rather dense film on the surface of the hemp - it is not afraid of either high temperature or sunlight.

• Prepared round timber from trunks of different diameters begins to be installed on rammed at the bottom pit gravel as follows:

- A small amount of sand is poured to the transverse wall of the pit at the beginning of the path.

- Then, the first row of round timber is installed. It must be well sized so that it fits as tightly as possible.

- Sand is poured between the logs to the level of the top of the pit walls.

- Such cyclical manipulations continue until the end of the path.

• Along the edge of the path, the sandy border is filled up and compacted.

Option number 2

Another option using round hemp, which is arranged in a complex with crushed stone or gravel.

In this case, only the curb is mounted from hemp, and the remaining stages of work with soil removal, sand filling and the installation of hemp to the walls of the pit are carried out in the same way as a path made entirely of logs. The process takes place in the following sequence:

• At the bottom of the pit, a "pillow" of sand is poured and rammed;
• Then, along the edge of the future path, stumps are installed, which are driven into one level and sprinkled with sand. The sand bed is compacted directly near the bottom of the hemp;
• After the borders of the logs are completely laid out, geotextiles are laid on the entire surface of the path, the edges whom folded onto stumps by 80 ÷ 100 mm;

• The next step is to make an embankment from gravel or from medium fraction rubble directly onto geotextiles;

The gravel fill is spread over the entire track in an even layer. If necessary, the layer is increased, since it should be equal in height to the level of the soil of the entire site.

The gravel layer should be the second retaining wall for the hemp in the curb.

• If the top of the stumps are of a different color, and you want to achieve harmony in the design of the track, then they can be covered with paint intended for external work, and the shade in this case is selected to the taste of the owner of the site.

Round river stone path

Paths with amazing curls are obtained from river Altai stone, which has bluish shades, from very light to dark gray-blue. To make such a wonderful track, you need to prepare round and oval smooth stones of different sizes, clean sand, a rubber or wooden hammer, cement, a sponge, a level, and, of course, water.

Preparatory work is carried out in almost the same way as with the construction of a brick path, but with minor deviations.

The whole process begins with sorting stones, as they come with a small marriage. If the flaw is not too large, then it can be hidden by turning the stone straight side up.

After sorting through the stones, you need to choose a pattern that is suitable in size to the width of the track, the base for which has already been prepared. If you cannot find a suitable one, then you can easily compose it yourself, using it as a basis for drawing to vadrats, into which the curls-shells will perfectly fit.

Option number 1

• The drawing from the sketch is transferred to the prepared base. The curl must be placed in the marked square, and it is desirable that this square has from all four sides of the sides that will not allow the mosaic to disintegrate.

Since the base is made of rubble, the marking can be done with lime.

• The next step is to mix sand with cement, approximately 3: 1 or 4: 1, add water and make a thick mixture, from which a side is laid out according to the markings, having a width equal to the length of the pebbles. The stripes are arranged in small sections to make it easier to align the stones in them.
• An oval stone with rounded edges is folded into a small path - it is placed on the side and slightly pressed into the solution.

If the solution has already hardened a little, then in order to level all the stones, you can knock on them with a rubber hammer.

• When one of the strips is laid out, its evenness must be checked using a building level - there should not be strong protrusions above the general level of the track.

• So, looking at their sketch, row by row, they lay out a similar stone mosaic. It can be used as small oval smooth stones, with their installation on the edge, and round, if they fit well into the pattern being created.

• In addition, you can use different shades of stones, for example, laying out one strip with light stones, the other with dark ones, or making a smooth color transition.
• Depending on the intended pattern, the stones can be installed in height. The main thing is to keep constant control with the help of the level.

• After one of the parts of the mosaic has been laid out, it is poured with water using a spray. This will not only strengthen the hardening mortar, but also wash away the excess from the surface of the mosaic.

• So, dividing the drawing into separate parts, gradually, in accordance with a previously thought out sequence, lay out the entire plane allotted for the mosaic. As a result, it should be densely filled with stones.

Option number 2

Another option can be called simpler, since the stones are placed immediately in the leveled wet sand, without the use of cement.

However, so that the created composition does not crumble ahead of time, it must be laid out in a limited space. For this, installed curbs with temporary partitions can serve, since the mosaic is laid out in parts, or a kind of formwork from boards, which is removed only after compaction of each of the parts.

• So, on the base with compacted rubble, curbs are exposed and leveled, as well as temporary partitions, which will limit the area of ​​the work being carried out.
• Further, wet sand is poured into the resulting form, compacted and leveled with a rule. The height of the sand cushion should be 20 ÷ 30 mm lower than the sides of the curb or formwork - it is at this height that the stones will remain on the surface, and the laid mosaic will need to be aligned along the curb.

Lines are applied to the leveled sandy surface along which the stone mosaic will be laid.

• It is more convenient to lay out the stones not one by one, but immediately fold them into a path and, tapping on top with a rubber hammer, deepen to the desired level. If necessary, the sand must be additionally moistened.

When carrying out work, the height of the stones must be constantly monitored with the help.

• Having laid out a certain section of the mosaic, until the sand has dried, you need to once again walk over the entire surface with a rubber hammer, and then you need to pour more dry sand or a mixture of sand and cement on top. The excess of such backfill must then be immediately swept away with a brush.

• After the laid surface is completely dry, you can brush over the surface again.

After a few hours, the sand will be compacted and slightly sink between the stones. After that, you need to repeat the procedure with a bedding and splashing.

• After another drying of the mosaic, all stones are washed with a wet sponge.

• The whole composition is moistened with water every day, for a week - this is necessary for the track to “gain hardness”.
• If work in progress on the installation of the mosaic in an open space, then in order to avoid its blurring by rain, it is best to cover the entire composition with thin foam rubber at night. It will allow water to pass through, but will not allow the sand to be washed out.
• If the work was carried out in plank formwork, after the completion of the masonry and its temporary fencing, it is imperative to strengthen the path by overlaying it with stones or bricks in the form of a curb.

Concrete path

For a concrete path, the marking is done in the same way as described above, and then the soil is excavated along the marked area.

Then, sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit, which is moistened and compacted. The total thickness of the compacted layer should be 60 ÷ 70 mm.

On top of the compacted sand, gravel is poured, which also needs to be compacted.

A reinforcing grid is installed on the crushed stone, which will make the track much stronger.

Then, you can do one of two ways, depending on which track you want to get.

1. If a flat surface should be obtained, then a thin one is made, with which the formwork is poured.

- In the case when concrete is poured into the space between the already installed curbs, then the rule will need to be made independently, and it should have the same fundamental shape as the one described in the section on sand leveling when constructing a brick path.

- The finished track is strengthened with iron. To do this, dry cement is scattered on a still wet surface in a thin layer, which is immediately gently rubbed with a grout. Commercially available hardening topping mixes can be used.

2. If the path is planned to be made using a form that helps to simulate the laying of a stone, then the concrete mixture is poured into the formwork in two layers.

- The first layer is poured at half the height of the formwork and leveled also using the rule. In this case, a coarse mortar consisting of cement and gravel is used. The surface should turn out to be fairly flat, and in order to achieve this, it is recommended to install beacons of the required height, and level the concrete along them.

- After the concrete has set, a form is installed on its surface and filled with a thin solution. It is aligned to the surface of the mold. The concrete-filled form is left to harden for 3 ÷ 5 days.

If there is only one form, then the work, of course, will take too long, therefore, when using such a technology, it is desirable to have at least two similar forms at your disposal. It should be noted that with their help you can arrange not only the paths, but also the floor in the gazebo, the area near the gate or near the garage.

Prices for cement and base mixes

Cement and base mixes

Video: An example of using a form to fill a "paved" path

Garden paths from covers

A very interesting version of the track - it turns out that it can be made from caps from ordinary plastic bottles. Thanks to their bright and varied colors, they can be used to make various ornamental designs that will help to decorate the garden landscape.

The only difficulty that will be encountered on the way of the master who decided to make this work, will be the collection of the required number of these "mosaic elements" of the future track.

Having conceived to do this work, you need to start assembling the covers in advance. While the process is going on from the boron, you can think over which pattern to choose for the track and draw up a rough sketch of it.

Do not wait until the required number of covers are fully assembled for the entire length of the path. Having collected a certain number of them, you can begin to mount elements of the future canvas from them. For example, to assemble the fragment shown in the photo, you will need only 19 caps.

A large number of caps are usually found on the beach during the summer. And by the way, you can get triple benefits from the collection process:

- at least a little to clean the sand beach from foreign objects;

- get some fresh air while walking along the beach;

- get a completely free material for making a track.

• To connect the covers in the desired pattern, you need a "gypsy" needle, an awl, always with a wooden handle, and a large amount of fishing line. A wooden handle is needed due to the fact that the awl will have to be heated on fire, so that it is easy to make holes in the lids to fasten them together.
• Needle holes are punctured on the sides of the caps as shown in the photo above.
• First, individual elements are assembled according to the prepared sketch , and when several of them are ready, they are connected to each other.
• The work on assembling the elements of such a track is quite long and painstaking, but it does not require T ore-intensive preparation of the base associated with earth or concrete work.

• When the lid mat is completely ready, the place for it is prepared as follows:

- marked space for installation, spilled with weed control;

- then, a prepared rug of covers is laid on it;

- so that less soil gets on the surface of the track during operation, it is recommended to install a brick or stone curb along the track;

- for this, the top soil is removed in depth by about two-thirds of the brick, and then the space is half of the trench filled with sand, into which the brick is set at an angle and touched. The side gaps between the soil and the brick are also filled with sand, which is moistened in advance.

Prefabricated paths from plastic plates

Mobile garden paths can be laid quickly, without arranging a base for them, using special plastic panels.

From them you can assemble a path of any width, since they have fasteners that will allow you to connect them both along and across.

The connecting elements, which are large enough, impart rigidity to the structure, since every two plates are fastened in two places and serve as a kind of support legs.

The advantage of such slabs-panels is not only the quickness of installation, but also the fact that their surface is absolutely non-slippery, such paths withstand quite heavy loads, they are very durable in operation.

For the manufacture of plates, frost-resistant plastic is used, which well withstands not only low temperatures up to - 35 ÷ 40, but also high temperatures up to + 45 ÷ 50 degrees. However, leaving such a garden path for the winter does not make much sense - if desired, it can be quickly and easily disassembled, stacked and sent for storage to one of the outbuildings. The tile will not take up much space, and in the spring the track will not be tied up in the shortest time to lay it out again anywhere on the site.

The tile has a very convenient size for working with it - it is 570 × 570 mm in width and length, and its thickness is 22 mm.

In addition, the convenience of such a tile also lies in the fact that water does not accumulate on it, since there are longitudinal holes on the surface.

By the way, for the winter period, you can lay out a rug from such a tile in front of the entrance door - its surface is corrugated, which means it will not allow you to slip and get injured.

This option for arranging garden paths does not require much installation effort, since the tiles can be laid both on and on the soil surface. If grass begins to sprout through the holes of the tile, the track can be easily moved or disassembled, and after getting rid of the grass, collect and put it back in place.

"Garden parquet"

"Garden parquet" - quite expensive the kind of material that they are used not only for laying on the site, but also for decorating floors in gazebos, on verandas, terraces and on balconies.

It has similar characteristics to plastic plates. This option is perfect for laying on garden paths - "garden parquet" is also quickly assembled and disassembled, as it has special fasteners for this, which have their own specific features.

A detailed panel can have a different arrangement of the elements that make up its drawing. They are laid on a compacted gravel mixture or fine crushed stone.

Such a "parquet" is made of wood, treated in a special way and does not react to ordinary external "irritants" - it is not afraid of humidity, direct sunlight, temperature changes, biological effects. However, in addition to wood for the manufacture of "garden parquet" (relatively inexpensive models), special plastic is used, which perfectly imitates natural wood. It is clear that the second version of the flooring-parquet flooring is much more affordable for the average owner of the site.

So, there are a very large number of summer cottages. After careful examination, you can always choose the one that is suitable for the price, design and complexity of independent performance of all work. Therefore, if the time comes for planning a site, you need to carefully think over all the nuances and calculate your strengths and capabilities.

Video: Variety of options for garden paths

Walking barefoot on asphalt is less enjoyable than walking on seashells, polished cobblestones, or sun-warmed logs. The road surface, without which the metropolis is unthinkable, is inappropriate in a country estate. Almost every day, the owners walk around its territory without shoes, and the kids generally crawl on all fours.

When doing gardening, it is important to pay attention not only to high-quality care of fruit plantations, but also to remember about the general arrangement and appearance of the garden. Do-it-yourself garden paths not only create the convenience of moving around the household, but are also a special part of the overall design. In this article we will talk about arranging the tracks with our own hands.

Garden paths - how to combine beauty and convenience

A dacha, a private house, a cottage require not only the arrangement of the interior, exterior, but also embellishment of the area around. Often the owners want to combine practicality and aesthetics in one project. The idea can be realized by laying garden paths.

What you need to know and take into account during construction

Any design begins with an idea, a thorough study of the area and a plan. The first step is to determine the directions, length, width of future tracks, to present their shape, decoration. Next, you need to analyze the bearing capacity of the soil in order to choose the right type of building material and only then plan.

It is necessary to draw up a drawing on paper, it will be possible to correct, alter, supplement. There are several important factors to pay attention to:

• The constituent parts must be resistant to the aggressiveness of the environment - high humidity, fungi, corrosion.
• It is good to tolerate temperature fluctuations in different seasons.
• Provide for possible increased loads (car, loaded wheelbarrow).
• The optimal angle of inclination of the web to avoid the accumulation of water from precipitation.

Advice from a landscape designer - in compact areas it is better to lay not straight garden paths, but with undulating bends, turns. This visually expands the space, deepens the niches for plants.

From what to build a track, each owner decides independently, based on financial capabilities, needs and fantasies. Every cover needs a base. The ideal option would be a tamped earth mound or crushed stone pillow.

The most popular materials for do-it-yourself garden paths:

1. A natural stone. It looks noble, aesthetically pleasing even with non-smoothed corners.
2. Artificial substitute. The grace of nature, faceted by man.
3. Clinker bricks will add bright colors to the garden.
4. Gravel or coarse polished pebbles will provide originality.
5. Wood is an affordable, simple, but short-lived look. Looks impressive separately and in the composition.
6. Decking - plastic garden parquet. New material, resistant to UV, water, mold, rot.

The decorativeness of the structure largely depends on the way the blanks are laid. The canvas can be solid, even, or consist of separately located elements of different geometric shapes. Having laid out a path of large "leaves", "butterflies", "flowers", it is easy to get pleasure from comfort and a pleasant walk.

Varieties of garden paths

Everyone who has a summer cottage and even a small but own personal plot will think more than once about ways to decorate and transform it. There is not always enough finance to implement ideas and fantasies. Many will ask: "What then to do?" The answer is quite simple: if you want to refine the garden paths, but there are no funds for a landscape designer and expensive components, then you should pay attention to the available and more affordable materials.

For arranging garden paths with your own hands, various types of stones, boards, wood cuts, river pebbles and even plastic bottle caps are useful. Now a little about each of the options.

Natural stone paths

They fit into any site design. They look natural, and with proper styling they can last forever.

These tracks look very impressive. If there are stones left after the nearest construction, you can use them. Or those that remain after laying the alpine slide will do. They are irregular in shape making them ideal for scenic trails.

Initially, you need to calculate the number of pebbles. One of the methods is a rough layout of stones. This way you can estimate if the amount of material you have is enough.

Sprinkle the place for the path with sand and tamp it well. It turned out to be a kind of "pillow" for pebbles. They need to be processed, adjusted in shape, made more uniform. For good joining and grinding, you can use a grinder or other not too powerful types of tools. Having prepared the stones, they are laid in a mosaic composition.

Since all stones are different in size, they are adjusted to each other using a rubber mallet. At least one of the sides of the stone must be flat for the path to turn out right.

When the mosaic is ready, you need to start sealing the joints between the stones. Otherwise, they will start to overgrow. Although some may prefer another option, the most natural one: cement-sand mortar is used for grouting.

Concrete paths

They are very similar to stone ones. First, make a bed, the depth of which is about 10 cm. Then pour sand on the bottom and tamp. Pour on top with a mixture of concrete and sand, set the formwork around the edges. While the solution has not frozen, pour pebbles into it. Lay out the intended pattern from it. A drainage system must be installed next to such a path.

Sometimes a concrete path is made using a ready-made form. It is not difficult to buy it at a hardware store. And then just pour the concrete mixture into the mold in the place you need, level it with a trowel, remove the excess and remove the mold. This is a very easy and quick way, moreover, you can lay out such a shape in at least several rows.

Wooden walkways

The paths made of wood will serve for a long time, but at the beginning they require maintenance. You can lay them out from sawn boards or timber, using what is left from the construction of the house.

Prepare boards and blocks, the latter can be replaced with steel corners or pipes. Treat them with protective impregnations or bitumen mastic. After soaking, nail the boards to the blocks. Mount the track from above using different caliber hemp. Paint them one or more colors.

But in domestic climatic conditions, the most modern impregnations will not protect the boards from deformation, rotting and corrosion, therefore, imitation of wood is often used as a material for paths - tiles with a corresponding pattern.

It will be possible to pick up such perfect samples that no one will detect the difference at a distance. It is felt only after tactile contact. The tiles reliably depict the natural texture of pine, beech, oak and other species in section - as a result, the ersatz turns out to be indistinguishable from the original.

DIY gravel garden paths

Gravel is a simple material that has good flowability, moisture permeability, and is relatively cheap. Paths of any width and length can be poured from it, it is even possible to give them different shapes. Such a path looks neat, harmoniously fits into any landscape. Doing it yourself will not be difficult.

The order of execution of a gravel path

• First you need to mark the track along the site. The markings are carried out with pre-prepared wooden pegs. You can pull a string between the pegs if you find it difficult to determine the direction "by eye".
• Next, a bed is prepared according to the markings. To do this, dig a trench in the ground. The depth of the trench can be about 14 - 17 cm.
• Gravel is prepared. It is advisable, if possible, to view it and remove unwanted impurities (broken glass, sharp large stones, etc.). Busting gravel should be done with tight gloves.
• Gravel is backfilled to the depth of the trench. You can level it with a rake or with your hands (also use gloves).
• Next, the laid gravel is rammed.
• At the end, a curbstone can be placed along the edge of the walkway. This will give an even more effective and finished look. The stone is fixed with a cement foundation. It can be laid both flush with the canvas, and slightly above it.

This algorithm is also suitable for the construction of a garden path made of sand. Accordingly, gravel is replaced by sand, and then all work is carried out according to the same scheme.

DIY brick garden paths

It is a very fragile type of material. Before laying, check for strength. First, mark the path with string and pegs.

Remove the soil (25 cm), put a drain underneath. In this case, it will be simple, but the main thing is that the water does not penetrate. Crushed stone must be poured onto the drainage system on top. Boards are laid sideways along the edges. Then the brick is laid. You can come up with many different brick designs.

The garden path, lined with brick chips, looks great. It is permissible to pour it onto a concrete track. A beautiful mosaic is laid out of broken bricks. If the bricks are of different colors, beautiful patterns are laid out of them. You can leave space between them to fill it with small pebbles, pebbles or soil, so that later there was a green island.

Sandstone path

They are made dry or use cement grout. This method is similar to laying a stone path, and the first is more natural and original.

Dig a trench by removing some of the soil. Pour sand there and tamp. The middle section should be higher than the edges. It is necessary to walk a little to the slope. This is such a dehumidification system. This is followed by the processing of pebbles.

Sandstone can be of very different sizes and shapes. Try on each stone before processing.

Level the stones by making the gaps as small as possible. The processed stones are laid out as you like. For a classic track, you need a bucket of sand and the same amount of mixture with cement. Under each pebble, you must first put the first, then the second. Moreover, the cement should protrude slightly. You need to press the stone tightly. The made path must be washed so as not to spoil the aesthetics with the remains of cement. Seams are filled with soil or sand.

Saw cut path

Such a path will look very beautiful and attractive.

Cuts must be taken of different sizes, laying them so that there is no free space between them. Before laying, round timber must be treated with an antiseptic composition.

Another option is to use round timber in the form of curbs, and fill a layer of gravel between them.

Staying at the dacha, you want to move away from city life, because all around, if not a forest, then a garden, some lucky people even have a lake or a river. In short, whatever the surrounding landscape may be, it encourages closer proximity to nature.

An interesting idea is a forest trail. It represents fragments of common tree stumps. Round plates of different sizes are laid along the edge of the pond and concreted.

The side of an artificial reservoir is made of them. It is pleasant to sit on such stumps to sunbathe, the contact of the feet with them also gives rise to positive sensations.

Plastic garden paths

Such country paths are sold as ready-made modules. Their installation does not require preparation and surface treatment. They are very simple and quick to attach, very economical, are characterized by strength and long service life. They can be laid out on any site, in the form of any composition. They are environmentally friendly and aesthetic.

River pebble paths

Working with these stones will be difficult, time consuming and will not end quickly. They are laid in a previously limited space in wet sand and compacted to the desired depth. The process takes several days.

It happens that the design of suburban buildings is based on imitating the styles of bygone times - the antique era, British classicism, etc. Then you should choose slabs decorated in accordance with the general concept of the site and the residential building. They may have impressions of Mediterranean pebbles, ancient bricks, etc.

Tracks from plastic bottle caps

The most original and interesting way is to lay out the path or part of it with plastic bottle caps. Due to the fact that the covers have a variety of colors, you can make patterns and mosaics, even coming up with whole pictures.

The only drawback of this improvised material is its collection, because a lot of covers will be needed.

Reinforced concrete tile garden path

Stages of work:

These are just the basic materials from which you can make suburban paths with your own hands. Human imagination is limitless, so they will probably come up with something else by the next summer season. Paths for summer cottages are made by hand from any, sometimes unexpected material. For example, from glass bottles. You can create combinations of different types of material in one composition.

Remember that such paths bring not only convenience and benefit, but also beauty, joy for the eyes, harmony. Imagine, invent, create.

The independent choice of materials for garden paths and the driveway to the dacha sometimes makes it difficult. Then you just need to allocate time for a scrupulous study of catalogs or funds for consultation with specialists. The result will justify all these costs.

Video master classes

It is not properly decorated. The appearance of the entire territory, as well as the organization of economic affairs, will depend on how well they are made and how well they are located. You can make a path in the country house with your own hands from various materials. This article will consider different options for making such tracks. We hope the information provided in it will help you master one of the technologies and implement it on your site.

Before you start arranging the paths, you should draw a plan of the site, put all the buildings on it. Then it is necessary to depict the directions of the paths, taking into account the landings and buildings that are located on the territory of the dacha.

When designing trails, it is important to consider the amount of rainfall in your area. Sometimes, in order to avoid stagnation of water on the territory of the dacha, it is necessary to equip the drainage system. This should be taken into account, since excess water on paths made of wood, concrete and brick will render them unusable in a fairly short period of time.

In order for the paths in the garden to serve you as long as possible, it is important that there are no large trees near them. Therefore, in order for the result of the work to be presented to you more clearly at the planning stage, draw up a detailed plan-diagram of the dacha landscape. This will help you determine not only the directions of the paths / paths, but also the building material for their arrangement.

Almost all suburban paths are laid using the same technology. All work can be divided into several stages:

• Site marking. It is performed using pegs and a cord. Garden paths will be laid along these lines.
• Then the sod is removed along the entire length and width of the marked contours of the paths. The soil should be removed to the thickness of the sand cushion, which will serve as the basis for subsequent paving. In this case, the minimum thickness of the sand cushion, and, therefore, the depth of sod removal, should be 10 cm.
• Sand is poured into the trench, and then well compacted and leveled.
• Then the paving of the paths is carried out. In this case, it is important that a flat plane is obtained. This parameter should be monitored using a building level.

The bulk type of path is the simplest and cheapest. Small chips from building stone / brick can be used as backfill. Before filling the path, you need to remove a small layer of turf along the width and length of the future path. Then the bottom must be tamped and a pebble stone must be poured into it, which in this case serves as a pillow.

Then you should fill in small chips from building stone / brick. But if you want your path to have a more attractive appearance, then fill it with white or colored rubble. Lay out curbs along the contour of the path, for example, from larger stones.

Filled paths help to maintain stability in ice, and also dry quickly after rain. However, many fractions of the material with which the path was covered will quickly appear in the garden. In this, the fill paths are inferior to their concrete counterparts.

If you do not want to part with a short-cut lawn and do not imagine it is possible to cross this green carpet with paths and paths, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with one tricky option. Before making this miracle track, you should purchase cement mortar and stock up on burdock leaves.

Knead the cement mortar M500 in a small container according to the manufacturer's instructions. So that the finished elements of the path do not crumble soon, add special plasticizers to the solution, as for paving slabs. Spread the thick mixture onto a burdock leaf, which in this case will serve as a pouring mold. Once the solution has set, you can remove the sheet.

Now you need to prepare a place for laying such an original decorative tile. Carefully peel off the sod layer so that a small indentation is formed for laying one tile. The rest of the tiles are laid in a similar way. This path is airy, light and harmonious along with the lawn. The attractive decorative leaf tiles are comfortable and safe to walk on, even in the rain.

Brick is a versatile material. If you have a sufficient amount of paving bricks on your site, then you can make a reliable path in a short time. Construction work in this case can be divided into 4 main stages:

1. Determination of boundaries, marking of paths, soil extraction.
2. Preparation of sand and gravel cushion.
3. Laying paving bricks.
4. Filling voids with sand.

The width of the trench for the track depends on the size of the brick and the pattern laid out from it. In this case, the minimum width of the path will be 0.9 m. Determine the boundaries of the path and mark them with pegs with a cord. Remove the sod and dig a shallow trench. In order for the curb to have an additional emphasis in the next 2 years, reinforce the edges of the trench with boards. After two years, you can pick them up, and fill the grooves with pebbles or gravel chips.

Prepare the base for laying bricks. Fill the bottom with coarse sand, distribute it along the length of the track and tamp it. Then fill in the gravel and follow the same steps. Then comes another layer of sand, which also needs to be distributed along the length of the track and tamped.

Now you can start laying bricks. Laying should start along the boards. In this case, the bricks should be slightly sunk in the sand, as shown in the photo. Correct the position of the brick with a wooden mallet. In this case, the bricks laid on the end will serve as a curb. Lay the bricks according to the intended pattern, slightly hammering them into the sand. Check the levelness of the plane of the track.

The gaps between the bricks must be filled with sand. To do this, carefully pour sand on the summer cottage paths until it is level with the bricks. Then water the path and sand the bricks again. In the next few days, you will be able to correct the position of the bricks.

Natural stone is one of the noble, expensive materials. The garden paths covered with it testify to the financial position and status of the owners of summer cottages. To create a sense of unity with nature, lay out stones of different sizes and shapes in the form of slabs. To do this, you will need a stone leveling and trimming pick and a grinder / grinder.

The construction of a stone path can be divided into several stages:

• Carry out preparatory work, namely, determine the size of the path, remove the sod layer, make a sand cushion (cover the bottom with sand and tamp it).
• Fit, trim, and sand the stone.
• Place the stone on top of the sand cover, but do not secure it. Free cavities between stone tiles should be approximately the same - 15–25 mm.
• Remove excess sand from under unevenly laid stone tiles, and then tap them every 60–70 cm with a rubber mallet.

In some cases, the stone is laid on a cement-sand mixture. It hardens in a short time, which only increases the strength of the path, which will serve you an order of magnitude longer. The voids between the stones are filled with soil or sand.

In the garden, paths made of paving slabs with a thickness of more than 60 mm look very good. This material meets the practical and aesthetic requirements of gardeners. The natural background of the cottage is best supported by a path of blue, red and yellow-sand tiles.

Materials and tools

From the materials you should purchase:

1. Edged board / saw cuts / garden parquet made of the most resistant to atmospheric precipitation and temperature changes.
2. Curbs made of wood, metal or concrete.
3. Materials for filling the pillow and the gaps between the elements of the path - sand, pebbles, gravel.
4. Roll and coating waterproofing.

From the tools you will need:

• Roulette.
• Hammer, mallet.
• Chainsaw.
• Hacksaw.
• Shovel.
• Electric planer.

The first step, as in previous cases, is to mark the paths, remove the sod layer. The depth of the trench for laying the track should not exceed 40 cm, but it all depends on the material you choose for its device.

The bottom needs to be covered with roll-up waterproofing. This will eliminate the growth of weeds and grass and the ingress of moisture from the ground into the track elements. Fill the top of the waterproofing with a layer of sand / gravel, which will act as a drainage system and a base for installation.

The next step is to install the curbs. If the sides are provided at the basis of the structure, then they should be laid along the edge of the trench. After that, you can lay the finishing material - boards / timber / saw cut or garden parquet. Before that, however, you should cut the lumber to the desired length, and also carry out its processing, namely, to cut the surface with an electric plane.

Then the workpieces must be coated with linseed oil, treated with an antiseptic specially designed for wood, as well as bitumen or coated waterproofing.

You can lay out lumber at intervals or without them. The distance between the lumber can be within 5-8 cm. Then the path must be leveled with a mallet. In this case, it is better not to use a hammer. The rubber base of the mallet eliminates the possibility of damage to the lumber in the form of cracks or dents.

The gaps between the wooden elements of the path should be covered with gravel, pebbles, sand or other loose elements.

The technology of laying a track from a saw cut

The paths from the saw cut look quite original. However, before deciding to lay such a path, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with some of its advantages and disadvantages.

Among the advantages of saw cut tracks, the following deserve attention:

1. Simplicity of arrangement.
2. The cheapness of the source material.
3. Possibility of self-styling.
4. They have a natural attractive appearance.
5. Environmentally friendly material is used.
6. It is possible, if necessary, to repair the track.
7. Puddles do not accumulate on them.
8. The ability to create a unique pattern, because all cuts are different.

Of the shortcomings, you should pay attention to the following:

• Rotting susceptibility.
• Any wood reacts to temperature changes, even one that is highly durable.
• The need for care if you want your saw cut tracks to be attractive at all times.
• Cuts become slippery after rain falls. However, this disadvantage can be leveled if the track is treated with a special compound.

To work you will need:

1. Cuts of a tree.
2. Sand, gravel, pebbles and water.
3. Mallet.
4. Shovel, brushes and buckets.
5. Geotextile or roll waterproofing.
6. Level.
7. Manual chainsaw.

In order for the cuts to be ready at the time of laying, they must be prepared in advance. When choosing wood, it is important to take into account the expected life of the finished track and the loads that will fall on it.

If you want your paths / paths to last you as long as possible, then give preference to hard types of wood. These include oak and pine. But the most durable is larch wood, which can last you more than 25 years.

When it comes to choosing wood, a lot depends on the budget that you have. Often, the materials that are available on the site are used as cuts for arranging paths.

Saw the log into cuts 15–20 cm high. The height of all workpieces must be the same. If you make cuts with a height of less than 10 cm, then there is a very high probability that the material will not be fixed in the ground and will shift when pressed.

The lifespan of the material will increase if you remove the bark that exfoliates in the first place. It is also not recommended to use cracked cuts, as the cracks will increase under load and soon the track will simply become unusable.

Treat the cuts with preheated linseed oil. Due to the temperature of the drying oil, at which it must be applied when performing these works, there is a high probability of injury. You can replace drying oil with antiseptic agents that provide moisture protection and biosecurity. In such a solution, the cuts should be kept from 2 to 48 hours.

Treat the bottom of the saw cut with bitumen. If you want to age wood, then treat it with a solution of copper sulfate. Then the material should be dried.

The marking and preparation of the base is carried out in the same way as when arranging paths made of wood. The only thing is that the depth of the trench should be determined based on the height of the cuts + 5–10 cm for laying crushed stone-sand cushion.

The curbs should be installed before starting the installation of the cuts. Curbs can be stones, bricks, long logs, bars, or sheet metal.

Now you need to fill in the second layer of sand. To compact the sand, you need to pour it with water, and then tamp it.

The order of installation of cuts is not critical. You can form a pattern depending on the size of the saw cut and the preferences of the owner. Alternatively, you can lay the cuts so that there is a minimum space between them, or, conversely, leave a space between them, which is then filled with bulk material.

The only thing that is important to observe is to tamp the cuts, leveling them.

You can fill up the cuts with sand. Another option for backfilling is soil with seeds of ground cover plants. In addition, after laying the track, you can paint the cuts in bright colors or leave them as they are. You can also open them with a transparent, rain-resistant varnish.

Wood is quite whimsical and in order for it to serve as long as possible, it needs regular maintenance. To do this, clean the path with a metal scraper once a year. Then it must be treated with an antiseptic and covered with linseed oil or paint.

If necessary, replace the cuts that have become unusable, having previously treated the new elements of the path with antiseptics and bitumen from the lower side. Do not polish the ends of the logs, otherwise the path will be very slippery after rain.

Video

In the provided video material, you can visually familiarize yourself with the technique of making garden paths:

Schemes

The diagrams show the subtleties of making a garden path:

In addition to functionality, the paths in the country house play a huge role in the original design of the landscape. The presence of beautiful original paths gives the site sophistication, creates a positive impression of its owners.

Sometimes it is difficult to decide on the material for garden alleys in order to fully preserve the ideal harmony of the site, without going beyond the available budget.

It is important that the material chosen for the arrangement of the paths is in harmony with the style of the garden. So after drawing up the estimate documentation, as well as calculating the required dimensions, you can start choosing the most optimal material.

Natural stone

At the moment, natural stone is still considered one of the status and practical materials for various coatings.

Used marble, sandstone and granite. Focusing on the preferences of the owners of the site, a stone is selected in a light or dark shade. Stone alleys have various shapes, but they need professionalism when laying.

The stone is incredibly demanded, which is laid in plates. It's called limestone. An identical and affordable option is considered to be an imitation of natural stone, which is offered on the market in a variety of assortments.

The stone alleys look great, in harmony with the trees and shrubs growing on the site. Natural stone goes well with pebbles.

Among the advantages of the stone are durability of use, a high degree of resistance to mechanical influences, aesthetics, a variety of textures and configurations. The disadvantages include a rather high price, slippery when the surface is moistened and covered with a crust of ice in frost.

Paving stones

Garden paths made of paving stones are in demand because of their durability, high resistance to temperature extremes.

A diverse palette of shades and a variety of configurations make paving slabs a versatile material used in a wide variety of design ideas.

The paving stones are easy to install and fit perfectly into the garden space of any shape. According to the production type, the paving stones are produced in several types, therefore it can be sawn and also chipped.

The advantages include versatility of use. Among the minuses - laying at a non-professional level can cause distortions.

Brick

Clinker brick is often used as a coating for garden paths, as it is convenient during installation, fits well into a site of any style, and is presented in a variety of shades.

It is important to note that we are talking about clinker, since building bricks are not suitable for creating garden alleys.

Alleys made of wood

This type of path for a garden can hardly be called practical, however, additional impregnation, as well as processing, can increase their resistance to the negative effects of mold and moisture.

To maximize the performance of the coating, it is advisable to apply it exclusively on dry heights.

Oak belongs to the most suitable tree species for organizing alleys, the rest of the array also has positive characteristics.

Inexpensive options for the price category are wood cuts, as well as bars, and a more expensive option is a terrace board.

Among the advantages of wood alleys are originality and affordability. Among the disadvantages are impracticality, as well as instability to mechanical influences.

Concrete alley

Poured concrete alleys are widespread in suburban areas. This coating is considered to be a barrier against weeds and has increased resistance to the negative effects of moisture.

Forms for such alleys are sold in any specialty store. With this type of fixture, concrete becomes a true designer find. Using dyes, colored details are obtained, the shapes provide for a specific pattern.

The advantages of concrete tracks include practicality and durability, as well as external originality, and among the minuses, the laboriousness of the work process stands out.

Choose the most suitable material and equip beautiful and stylish alleys on your site!

Photo of the tracks at the summer cottage