Laying a massive board with your own hands. Ways to self-lay a solid board Laying a solid board on plywood without glue

Solid wood flooring lasts for decades, and that's a fact. The material is warm, extremely aesthetic and cozy. The modern technology of laying solid boards differs significantly from the old methods of installation. Read the details below.

Solid wood is made of long strips of solid wood of valuable species: oak, beech, larch, cherry, walnut. Large producers use especially hard and exotic species - teak, bamboo, jatoba, zebrano, merbau, etc. The sizes are variable:

• Thickness of a solid board (depending on the scope of application) - 9-26 mm;
• Product width - from 100 to 220 mm;
• Length - from 300 to 1500 mm.

Along the perimeter of the planks there is a tongue-and-groove lock (“thorn-groove”), which allows you to assemble the array into a single, monolithic coating. On the wrong side, special "grooves" are cut to compensate for internal stresses and prevent deformation.

The surface can be clean or factory-treated with oil, varnish or oil-wax. In the first case, after installation, a little additional sanding and a protective coating will be required (preferably based on fat-containing mixtures, since the varnish film can crack due to temperature and humidity changes). In some collections, a chamfer is cut around the perimeter, and its depth for unprotected paintwork strips must be at least 2 mm.

If earlier the shade of the flooring depended on the type of wood, today this is not so important. Modern paints and varnishes allow you to get more than 5000 shades, from snow white to deep black. Therefore, when choosing, it is better to pay attention to the hardness of the massive board, its resistance to atmospheric changes, etc.

When sorting solid floorboards, there are several categories:

The name of each manufacturer may change, but the essence is the same - 1, 2 or 3 grade, and, accordingly, the presence or absence of various defects. Of course, the price also depends on this parameter. Massive Select is a premium class coating, therefore it will cost several times more than products from the Rustic series.

Laying the board

Professional laying of the array is carried out according to the "in stagger" method or with an offset of 1/3. In this case, the method of double fixation is used: on glue and hardware (special self-tapping screws with self-drilling caps, parquet "pins").

The reason for this "reinsurance" is simple: wood is subject to deformation. That is, it changes its linear dimensions depending on humidity, temperature, season. Gluing and additional attraction of the strips with fasteners to the base will ensure the rigidity of the fastening, prevent the appearance of gaps over time, warping of the strips.

1. Installation work is carried out only after the completion of all types of rough finishing, allowing humidification or heating of the air. Including tiling, plastering or painting walls and ceilings, wallpapering, etc.
2. The air temperature in the room should be in the range from +18 ° С to +25 ° С, humidity - 40-60%.
3. Transportation is carried out in covered vehicles, and storage is in a dry, ventilated area.
4. The overwhelming majority of the produced solid boards are not intended for laying on floor heating systems.
5. Before work, it is necessary to withstand the so-called acclimatization period - at least 48 hours.
6. After installation in the rooms, it is necessary to maintain optimal microclimate parameters: humidity within 40-60%, and air temperature - + 18- + 22 ºС.

The most optimal is the laying of a massive board on plywood of a moisture-resistant series, for example, birch FC.

This material is considered particularly durable, since it is able to withstand significant loads in various directions, and due to its multilayer nature, changes in linear dimensions are minimal. The minimum thickness of the plywood backing is 10 mm or more.

It is also allowed to lay a solid board on a screed without plywood or a wooden floor. But with preliminary thorough preparation. In any case, you will need the following set of tools and tools for installation:

Installation of a solid board is divided into 3 stages:

Preparation of the base

The sub floor should be:

If the installation is planned on a mineral base, take care of preliminary waterproofing. For this, it is better to use special primers of the coating type. They are applied in a continuous layer on the entire surface of the floor with an institution on the walls.

Laying the cover

Installation should start from the solid wall of the room from left to right. Apply glue to the width of the strip on the base with a notched trowel. The starting board is installed with an edge groove to the wall, spacer wedges fit into the gap. The row is fixed with self-tapping screws or parquet studs at an angle of 45º with an interval of 25-30 cm.

If the laid wood is from the category of extra hard, to prevent cracking, it is recommended to pre-drill holes in the planks for self-tapping screws.

Having laid the first strip, the next one is attached to it with the help of profile tongue-and-groove locks, and the installation begins with a cut fragment. If necessary, the strips must be carefully knocked out or tightened with a mounting angle.

The last row is cut in such a way as to leave a technological gap of 8-12 mm between the coating and the wall. And the width of the slats should not be less than 5-10 cm.

You can walk on the finished solid floor 24-72 hours after the end of the work. Grinding and subsequent processing is allowed after 3-7 days.

Finishing

If the coating in production was treated with protective agents, then after laying and drying the glue, it is enough to carry out the first thorough cleaning with the help of special wood floor care products.

After a technological break, solid wood with a clean surface should be lightly sanded and applied with a protective impregnation, finishing oil or oil-wax in accordance with the instructions on the package.

Application of protective oil to the array.

For proper service of the coating at the entrance, lay down dirt mats, tap the furniture legs with felt pads, and install silicone mats under chairs or tables on wheels. Periodically treat the floor with special compounds containing wax and other restorative substances. This will help keep your solid board in top condition for years to come.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be performed and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It is FREE and non-binding.

Massive boards are laid at the final stage of the renovation of the premises. This will minimize the risk of damage and deformation. And therefore, work on the installation of floors from a solid board should be started only after the windows, doors have been installed and the walls are aligned, the rough floor has been prepared and all wet work has been completed.

It is very important that the wallpaper, plaster, paint, concrete dry thoroughly, and the humidity in the room does not exceed 40-60%. At the same time, the moisture content of the solid board should not be more than 12%.

However, the last remark about the moisture content of a massive board of 12% is purely theoretical, because you still cannot reduce it and this indicator reflects the quality of production. According to our research on the products on the market, the moisture content of solid oak or ash (and other European species) is 12-15%, and that of exotic species, whose timber is processed in tropical countries, is about 18%. This is partly why European breeds are inherently more stable in our climate.

It is imperative that all existing air conditioning and heating systems be activated in the room before the start of laying the solid board. The air temperature should be maintained within the range of 18-22 ° C, and for at least seven days before the start of laying the solid board.

If the laying of massive boards is planned on the ground floor directly above the basement, then it should be thoroughly ventilated.

Requirements for the quality of the subfloor for a solid board

The subfloor on which the parquet board will be laid should be as even as possible, which can be achieved by leveling grinding. The maximum permissible deviation when leveling walls and screeds should not be more than 2 mm for every 2 m.

Leveling the subfloor is the most important condition when laying solid planks and any parquet. If you do not achieve a perfectly flat surface, the solid board will begin to creak in a couple of years due to the movement of the floorboards relative to each other. The creak of a solid board is always a consequence of an uneven floor, and not of low-quality material.

It is very important to clean the sub-floor of small debris and dirt. Remove shavings, small nails, remnants of building materials, dust, grease and glue stains from it.

The difference in humidity between the subfloor and the solid board laid on top of it should not be more than 4%. In this case, the moisture content of the subfloor itself should not exceed 12%. It is possible to achieve the setting of the required humidity values ​​by thoroughly ventilating the room and eliminating possible unwanted sources of moisture. Sometimes air dryers can help solve this problem.

In addition, you need to make sure that there is no movement in the subfloor. If necessary, the sub-floor is additionally reinforced to eliminate them.

How to properly unpack and prepare a solid board for laying

In order to save yourself from unnecessary problems in the future, you should properly unpack and prepare a massive board for laying. Remember that a solid board already laid by a master is considered to be of accepted quality and, even if there are defects, cannot be returned.

After the massive board has been unpacked, it should be carefully examined and sorted by pattern and color, planning in advance how it will be laid on the subfloor. To create the most harmonious interior, set aside the boards that will best match the skirting boards and thresholds for installation next to them. Decide which boards you will be using for trimming, and where.

The unpacked and sorted solid board must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it is planned to be laid for at least three days. The same applies to all materials that will be used during the installation of solid wood flooring. Their moisture content should not exceed 12% (theoretically), but it is desirable to be in the range of 6-10%. True, it is worth noting that today on the market you cannot find a massive board with a moisture content of 6-10%, even the most expensive and exclusive. Alas, manufacturers are not ready to slow down the pace of production in order to create the perfect material.

Methods for laying solid boards on various types of subfloors

1. Laying solid boards on concrete floors

First of all, a moisture-vapor barrier should be formed, which will serve as a buffer between concrete and wood. For this, a special 3 mm thick foamed polyethylene backing can be spread or a layer of ground mastic can be laid. The finished barrier will ensure the stability of the solid board and protect it from deformation.

After that, a base is arranged for flooring a massive board, which can be done in two ways.

The first method is “screed lags”. According to this technology, as a base for a massive board, wooden blocks of rectangular cross-section - logs. Such bars are attached to the concrete base using dowels and screws, which are inserted perpendicular to the future floor. Alternatively, if there is a danger of damaging the communications under the concrete screed, you can glue the logs onto glue or bitumen-containing mastic. The distance between the attachment points should be no more than 50 cm. After laying, the bars are leveled using a level. To adjust the height of the log, chips are placed or an excess tree is removed with a plane. Optionally, you can fill the space between the logs with thermal insulation materials. This is justified if the floor is laid on the first floor of a building that does not have a basement. Then a moisture-proof film is spread over the lag, which is fixed with staples. And already on top of it, a massive board is laid.

The photo shows the correct laying of plywood diagonally in relation to the solid board.
The size of the gaps should be between 3 and 5 mm.

The second method is laying on a plywood base along a screed. Today, this is the most popular way of laying solid boards. According to this technology, moisture-resistant plywood is used as a base, the thickness of which should be 15-18 mm. Before laying, plywood sheets are cut into strips with a width of 40 to 60 cm. Moreover, a whole plywood sheet is cut along the smaller of its sides. The finished strips are laid on concrete, diagonally to the future solid wood floor. This leaves gaps: between sheets - 3-5 mm, between sheets and walls - 10 mm. It is important to understand that the plywood tiles should be spread with a shift relative to each other in order to minimize the possibility of contact of the corners. With the help of dowels and screws, the heads of which are recessed into the material, the plywood is attached to the concrete. In this case, there must be at least 9 attachment points for each strip. An alternative option for attaching plywood to concrete is glue landing. One size of the stripes in this case should be at least half as much. Before installing solid boards, plywood must be sanded with a belt sander equipped with a belt with a grain size of 40 or 60 and free of dust.

2. Laying solid boards on load-bearing wooden structures

If the laying of massive boards is carried out in a building with load-bearing wooden structures, they can be used to attach the base to them for the future floor.

Before fixing the base under the floor, the existing logs must be leveled so that their maximum deviation from the plane does not exceed 2 mm by 2 m, otherwise the massive board will begin to creak over time. Using a spirit level, remove excess wood with a planer or place wood chips in the right places.

As a base for a solid board, 12 mm plywood, 18 mm OSB boards or 20 mm plank flooring can be used. Plywood and OSB boards are laid on top of the moisture-proof film in the direction of the future solid board floor so that the edges of the boards are joined on the logs, and not between them. The gap between the sheets should be at least 2 mm, between the sheets and the wall - at least 10 mm, but not more than 15 mm, so that the opening can be closed with a plinth. Plywood and OSB boards are fastened by means of screws, of which there should be at least 9 pieces per sheet. In this case, the heads of the screws must be sunk 3-4 mm into the material for possible subsidence of the plywood.

When used as a boarding base, the sub-floor details are laid diagonally to the future solid board floor.

3. Installation on finished wooden floor

A strong and high-quality wooden floor in the room must be sanded with a belt sander equipped with an abrasive belt of 40 or 60 grit. After that, the surface of the wooden floor should be cleaned of dust and fine debris. It is recommended to lay a solid board on top of a wooden floor in a diagonal or transverse direction.

Application of two-component polyurethane adhesives

The best adhesives for solid boards are two-component polyurethane adhesives, which are used by all installers. There are many similar adhesives on the market, there are several fundamental differences:

• Working time until glue thickens. The optimal time now indicated by the manufacturers of modern adhesives is 2.5, sometimes 3 hours. It is important to remember that this time is calculated for ideal conditions of temperature, humidity, as well as for the ideal composition inside the can. From can to can, the parameters of the glue itself may also vary slightly. In reality, you need to count on an hour and a half of glue work.
• Glue base. Benzene adhesives have a strong odor, but they fade faster. Alkyd adhesives are most often odorless, but all harmful fumes take a little longer to finish. Remember that glue that has a smell is by no means less environmentally friendly than one that does not smell - this is a common misconception. If the moment of smell is important for the installer, we recommend Tover Tovcol PU2C hypoallergenic adhesive.
• Strength and elasticity of the adhesive. These parameters are important for installation, however, the buyer will never know from the available product cards which glue is stronger. Trust the opinion of professional craftsmen or equally professional sellers.

Adhesives also have additional properties. For example, adhesives based on water or solvents shrink the parquet floor and transfer excess moisture to the solid board. Most adhesives, when they come into contact with the varnished surface of the parquet, leave stains, some compounds can be removed before hardening with a cloth without leaving a trace (for example, ADESIV Pelpren PL6).

All 2K adhesives require a wide-notched trowel - don't forget to buy. Only such spatulas create the correct glue line.

So, before the installation itself, you need to thoroughly mix the two components of the glue with an electric mixer (an electric mixer allows you to do this efficiently and quickly, without reducing the working time of the glue). Then you can pour out some of the glue from the can and spread it with a spatula. Sometimes you can see how the glue is not spread on the base, but on each plank before gluing. Spreading the composition on the planks creates an insufficient adhesive layer, especially in the gaps between the planks, therefore this method is incorrect from the point of view of the adhesive manufacturers.

Correct glue line and correct use of the trowel.
Pay attention to how the trowel flexes when pressed against the base.

The spatula must be held strictly vertically and pressed a little into the floor - this is how the correct glue seam is created - glue grooves, from below there is only a thin film or a completely dry base.

Fastening solid wood boards to the base and to each other

To fasten the massive board to the base, self-tapping screws are used, the distance between which should be at least 20-30 cm. Before that, from the side of the ridge, the massive board should be drilled at an angle of 45 degrees. There is no fundamental difference between which side of the planks to drill from, but theoretically it is more correct to drill into a tenon. Specialized SPAX solid wood screws are the most popular for this purpose and without any immediate competitors. It is especially important to use specialized wood screws for high density exotic woods (however, pre-drilling is required for exotic dense woods).

Pulling the slats of the solid board to each other when screwing in with self-tapping screws.

It is very important to tightly attract the planks to each other when twisting and leave the necessary gap between the boards and walls (for most medium-sized rooms, exactly 1 cm). To pull the planks together, carefully use a chisel or wedges if you have to press the spike. Or, more often than not, they knock the planks with a hammer through the block.

Professional parquet brigades often use a pneumatic gun with staples instead of self-tapping screws, which allows laying parquet much faster. This method is correct, however, it requires an initial investment in the purchase of a gun, a compressor and a stock of special brackets.

Too small a gap between the walls and the parquet when the wood expands does not allow the internal stress of the material to escape, which is fraught with cracking or swelling of the boards. Too large a gap will be difficult to cover with conventional skirting boards.

The first row of a solid board is always laid with a groove to the wall. The fastening of the first and last rows with self-tapping screws is carried out through the front surface of the massive board. Subsequently, the attachment points are hidden under the skirting board.

Rules for grinding solid boards and applying a protective coating on it

For processing laid solid boards without factory coating, it is recommended to use disk and belt parquet grinders. For work along walls and in corners, it is recommended to use special angle and small hand sanders.

It is important to understand that for a solid board, a light sanding is ideal, removing only the varnish coating. Scraping will remove the chamfer, therefore, with seasonal tapering of the wood, gaps will be visible on the floor surface.

At the end of sanding (if the solid board is uncoated), the surface of the solid board should be thoroughly cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner or brush. The application of varnish or oil should be started on the same day. After drying, each layer is recommended to be sanded with a disc machine. It is recommended to apply 3 to 7 coats of varnish, which can take about 7 days. If you use a semi-gloss or glossy varnish, then in addition to strength, this affects the "specularity" of the board. After sanding, the oil should be applied in 2-4 layers. Hard wax oil does not need maintenance if there is no visible deterioration in appearance. Traditional oil needs to be renewed every 1-2 years.

The final touch is the installation of the skirting board, which is carried out according to the recommendations of a particular skirting board manufacturer. After that, the laying of solid wood floors can be considered complete.

Laying massive boards is a floor-mounted coating, the elements of which differ significantly from parquet in their parameters. During the work, the process includes some features. Only a specialist with the skills and professionalism of a master can smoothly and correctly lay out the floor with a board. All preparatory steps will be carried out with high precision and inaccuracies.

Characteristics of a quality board

A massive board at each end has a saw cut, which helps in the locking connection of two such elements. It is done by milling and makes it possible to tightly join two planks together using the groove-tenon method.

As the main material for flooring, the board has its own dimensions, quality and specificity of laying. In terms of installation time, each running (or square) meter will be implemented much faster than parquet strips.

Floor array dimensions:

• in length - 0.6-3 m;
• in width - 6-20 cm;
• thickness - 15-22 mm.

The massive one differs from the parquet board in length, thickness, width and even smoothness. Permissible roughness for wood flooring according to the standard is 125 mm.

For both types of materials, thickness plays a key role in determining the degree of durability. The thicker the board, the longer the wood floor will last. The thinnest (0.7 cm) are great for scraping, and not arranging the strength of the coating.

Preparation for laying solid boards

To carry out high-quality work, the following conditions must be met:

• The room temperature should be between +18 and +25 degrees Celsius.
• Humidity indicators do not go beyond the range of 45-65 percent.
• The space should be free, not obstructed by tools or parts of building materials.
• Immediately after the board is delivered to the place, it is not laid. You need to wait until it is soaked for about two to three days.

The packed board should only be opened by workers and before direct installation work. Before the arrival of specialists, it will be necessary to first bring the surface to a clean state.

Basis for laying solid boards

The board must be laid out on a specific basis. You cannot perform work if the floor is earthen in a private house, or consists of reinforced concrete floors in an apartment building. First, a base is made - a concrete screed. Then you can choose:

• Lay the boards directly on the new (or old but strong) screed.
• Or cover everything with sheet plywood, and mount a floor from a board on top of it.
• Alternatively, use an existing strong plank floor as a base surface.

If there are systems of "warm floors", the solid board is not used. In the process of heating, the wood will dry out, crack, the coating will quickly fail. In such cases, the laying of specialized piece parquet is used, if the customer really wants to have a wooden floor covering.

Phased work

Algorithm of actions when laying a solid board:

• Study of the surface on which the board will be laid.
• Adjust the baseline if necessary.
• Measurements and calculations (if necessary).
• Application of waterproofing material.
• Decking of plywood sheets impregnated with resins and other moisture-resistant substances.
• The first stage of grinding is preparatory.
• Lined boards.
• The second stage of grinding is thorough, with the inclusion of a sealant, putty.
• Painting, toning, or varnishing.

You can line a solid board, refined with different coatings: oils, tinting, or varnish. But working with such material will cost a little more. For example, a varnished board with an additive for glue (or self-tapping screws) can be installed for 1250 rubles per 1 sq. M. And when using wide elements (over 120 mm) - from 1450 rubles per 1 square meter.

Prices for preparing the base for laying

Parquet laying price: turnkey and individual works

Natural wood as a floor covering will look very expensive and solid.

You can do the laying of a solid board with your own hands without the help of professionals, this will save the family budget and give the owner of the house a reason for pride.

Types of boards

A solid board is understood as a finishing material made of dense wood - beech, oak, ash and others. Solid wood is similar to a regular subfloor plank, and differs from it in the hardness of the wood, texture pattern and thickness. Therefore, the floorboard has two to three times the rigidity and is used as a base. Whereas an array of parquet boards is used only for decoration.

Manufacturers apply different types of divisions applied to solid boards. Some divide it according to the method of cutting logs or blanks. Others divide by wood species. Third in color and texture.

When choosing a solid board, be guided by the following parameters:

• Breed. Classical species - beech, hornbeam, maple, oak and ash are highly durable, therefore they serve for a long time. If the wood species is different, then its performance is unknown.
• Colour. When choosing a board, determine the desired color in advance. This will reduce the time spent on searches, and choose what you have in mind.
• Texture. Before buying a board, search the internet for texture photographs of the classic rocks used to make solid boards. Dishonest vendors sell impregnated planks of pine, acacia, aspen, and other soft woods that are not suitable for solid wood planks.
• The presence of a chamfer. Some boards have a milled bevel along the entire outer perimeter. This treatment allows you to highlight the contours of each board and hide the cracks when the floor dries out too much.

Pros and cons of solid wood flooring

• simple styling technology;
• lower requirements for the base than when laying parquet, laminate or cork;
• environmental friendliness - natural wood floors do not emit harmful substances;
• the service life is twice as long as that of parquet, parquet or laminate.

• the price is 30 percent higher than the cost of a parquet board and 80-100 percent more expensive than a laminate;
• sensitivity to water.

The pros and cons of solid boarding come from the strengths and weaknesses of the wood they are made from. Abrasion resistance is 2-3 times less than that of a coating on a laminate.

The use of high-strength acrylic and polyurethane varnishes prolongs the service life, but makes it difficult to mill the surface in order to smooth out the unevenness resulting from use. At high humidity, it absorbs water, which leads to swelling and swelling of the coating. After drying, it returns to its normal state.

To increase the moisture resistance of the board, treat the boards with water-repellent impregnations.

Floor markings

For any option of laying the array, the markup is the same. If the board will be laid in a parquet pattern or diagonally, then start the marking from the middle of the room. If the board will be located along the room, start marking and laying from the corner farthest from the door, located opposite the window.

If you start marking and laying from other angles, the effect of a distorted floor pattern may occur, when, when looking at the room, it will seem that the boards are lying obliquely.

If the wall with windows is not parallel to the opposite one, then the marking and laying must be started from the farthest corner of the window wall relative to the entrance door. When laying the array in rooms with a number of corners other than four, or in a non-rectangular shape, start the markings from the front door, and lead it perpendicular to the wall with the front door. Measure the width of the room and divide by the width of the board, this will be the number of whole rows.

Each row should be offset from the other by half the length of the board.

Failure to comply with these rules will distort the pattern and weaken the floor. This is especially important when installing a floating floor.

Laying options for solid boards

How to lay a solid board depends on the type of substrate. For a concrete floor, one installation option is used, for a wooden floor, another. Each method differs in the way the board is fastened and the preliminary steps taken before laying.

On a concrete floor

Floating styling

It requires perfect evenness of the base, because the floor is fastened only due to the "groove-comb" lock. Such styling is used in rooms where high humidity is excluded, because when the boards swell, they will displace each other, the floor will swell, and some elements will not return to their place after drying, because they do not have a rigid binding.

It is undesirable to use a floating floor in a room with heavy furniture. When moving furniture, the floor boards can be pulled out, damaging the lock, and the damaged boards or the entire covering will need to be replaced.

The best basis for this installation is a liquid floor. Perfect evenness will eliminate the unstable position of the boards, so the coating will lie motionless, without vibrations.

To pour a liquid floor, clean the concrete from looseness and dirt, putty it, checking the height differences in level. A difference of more than 2 mm by 3 meters indicates that one more screed is required to fill the liquid floor.

After the filler has dried, vacuum the concrete and fill in the liquid floor. The polymerization time of the floor is 2-5 days, depending on the brand and is indicated on the can or bag.

After the floor has stood, mark it, then proceed with the installation. Bring the boards into the room and let them sit for 3-4 days. Depending on the shape of the room, lay out the array from the center or one of the far corners. Once you have laid down one board, place the other on it with a shift of half the length.

Insert the boards from the side of the groove, this will allow you to finish them off with a wooden block and a hammer. Press the laid floor with your knee, place the block against the end side of the board to be inserted, and with light hammer blows on the block, put the board in place. As the board sits in place, move the block towards the edges.

Lay the last three rows after the boards of the last row have been measured and cut out. First, lay the last row, then insert the boards of the penultimate row by 1-2 mm and raise them by 5-7 cm. Insert the boards of the third row into the floor by 1-2 mm and raise them so that the groove-comb lock of the boards of the second and the third row grappled by 1-2 mm. After that, gently press down on them so that the boards fit into place.

If you have correctly calculated and cut the boards of the last row, then the boards will fit well. If the width of the last row is less than necessary, there will be a gap between the board and the wall, which you will cover with a plinth or fillet. If the board is wider, then it will not work to collect 1-2 rows. We'll have to disassemble them and cut the first row board.

Laying massive boards in a floating way reduces the time and cost of work, and is used for rooms with low traffic. Heavy furniture and a large number of people, as well as high humidity, can damage this coating.

On glue

Preparatory work for gluing is the same as for floating flooring. Because for a high-quality adhesive connection, tight pressure is required over the entire area of ​​the elements to be glued. Therefore, it is advisable to fill in a liquid floor.

Laying a massive board on a screed without plywood, not flooded with a liquid floor, will not allow high-quality glue of the elements.

After preparing the base and applying the markings to the floor, it is necessary to prime it. When using dry, water-borne adhesives, add twice the amount of water to prepare the primer than is written in the instructions for the adhesive. It is usually located on one side of the bag.

When using ready-made adhesives, add the recommended solvent at the rate of one part solvent to ten parts adhesive. Then paint the entire surface of the liquid floor with this primer.

The polymerization time of the primer is indicated on the bag or can of glue. When the primer is completely dry, bring 4-5 boards into the room, and glue the place of their installation with glue. Then apply glue to the back of the boards. Do not glue the groove-comb lock with glue, otherwise it will be difficult to disassemble the massive floor for repair.

Video - laying a solid board on a concrete floor (two-component Uzin MK 92 S glue):

Dry the glue for 5-15 minutes (depending on the specific brand - indicated in the instructions for use), then reinstall the board. Press it with your hands in the middle for 5-10 seconds, then press it in the same way, moving to the edges. Then install the adjacent board in the same way. Press it down only after the ridge is fully inserted into the groove.

After installing 4-5 boards, tap them with a rubber mallet, this will improve the strength of the adhesive bond. The outer rows are assembled in the same way as when laying a floating floor, the difference is that they are installed with glue.

Laying on a wooden floor

This installation is used to replace wooden floors covered with a floorboard, plywood or chipboard (chipboard). After removing the floor covering, inspect the logs. Repair or replace any moldy, black, or cracked areas. Better to do this while renovating the floor than to take it apart after a year or two.

Having prepared the logs, check their height using a level. A deviation of more than 5 mm by two meters is unacceptable. To eliminate this defect, use plywood or fiberboard (fiberboard) inserts. They are made 5-10 cm long, the distance between adjacent inserts is 5 cm. The purpose of this work is to create a flat horizontal surface.

After leveling the surface of the logs, lay plywood on them. The thickness depends on the distance between the lags:

• 40-50 cm - 25 mm;
• 50-60 cm - 30 mm;
• 60-70 cm - 35 mm;
• 70-85 cm - 45 mm (it is possible to use two sheets of 20 and 30 mm, stacked one on top of the other and fixed separately).

After laying the plywood, check the covering with a spirit level. If you find a difference in height greater than 2 mm by 2 m, eliminate all the rise with a vibration or belt sander. Do not use floating laying of solid boards if the height difference is more than 1 mm by 2 m.

When laying two layers of plywood, lay and secure the first one, sand it to even out the differences, then lay the second layer. When stacking this layer, offset the sheets by half the length and width. This will bond the plywood layers, making the backing as rigid as possible.

Mark the room. Follow the same principles as for concrete. Laying on glue provides the highest reliability of the coating, therefore it is used in rooms with high humidity and high traffic.

When laying in rooms without furniture, with low traffic and humidity, it is permissible to use a floating floor, although fixing with a stapler or screws will increase its reliability at least twice.

Ways to fix the board

Stapler

To secure, use a construction stapler, it is sold in hardware and building stores.

Align the board along the markings, press the stapler to the bottom protruding part of the groove, and shoot with a staple. Use staples 12-16 mm. Hammer in staples along the entire length, every 10 cm. First, hammer in a bracket from one edge of the board and check the markings, if necessary, correct the board, then fasten the other edge of the board and check the markings again. After that, secure the rest.

Once all the brackets are in place, slide your finger over them. The brace should feel like a medium thread. If it sticks out, take a large flathead screwdriver with a blade width of at least 1 mm, place it on the bracket and finish off with light hammer blows.

Strong blows can split the bottom of the groove.

Laying on glue

The technology of laying a solid board on glue does not differ from work performed on a concrete base.

Fastening with a screw

With this method of fastening, laying begins from the far corner of the window wall.

Replace the board and press down with something heavy. For example, put two 15 * 30 cm pieces of plywood on the edges of the board, and place six bricks on them. This will help you drill the board and substrate, prepare a seat for the self-tapping screw and secure it.

Drill the hole to a depth of 30 mm, drill diameter 2 mm. Drill at a 30-40 degree angle so that the drill goes into the base of the comb and goes under the board. In order not to drill too much, measure 30 mm on the drill and wind an insulating tape above the mark, used for repairing and installing electrical wiring. The mark will show the depth of the hole.

Compliance with these rules will ensure easy tightening and sufficient fastening strength.

Each board is secured with three self-tapping screws - in the center and 20 cm from each edge of the board. After that, take a drill with a diameter of 3-4 mm, depending on the self-tapping screw used and measure 15 mm on it. Install in the drill and widen the holes to avoid splitting the comb and damaging the board.

After that, drill the board with a 10-12 mm drill to a depth of 3 mm so that the screw head does not interfere with the assembly of the groove-comb lock. Install and secure the rest of the floor boards in the same way. Reduce the width of the last row by 0.5 cm. This board is fixed on top at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the wall. The sequence of actions is the same as when fastening to the comb.

Solid wood processing

Preliminary processing

An array of parquet boards is processed 5-7 days after installation. The surface of the board is scraped by hand scraping, which is a sharp scraper with a smooth working edge. The purpose of the operation is to eliminate small differences in height and remove traces of glue or other contaminants from the floor surface.

If you can get a professional parquet cutter or sander, the processing time will be reduced tenfold.

You can use a hand-held vibration or belt sander. The work time, in comparison with manual scraping, will be reduced by 3-4 times. This work is done just before varnishing or oiling.

Materials for varnishing and floor protection:

1. Stains - they change the color of the texture.
2. Oil - impregnation of wax and various oils. When applied to a board, it penetrates to a depth of 2 mm, protects against moisture, fungus and drying out. Various colors can be added to the oil to give the floor the desired shade.
3. Varnish - applied in 2-4 layers. Protects the board from moisture and slows down the wear of the board by 50-80 percent. Modern parquet varnishes are colorless; to give the coating the desired shade, you can use the colors for such varnishes.

Varnish can be applied over stain, but never over oil.

Oil and stain are applied with a roller, brush or spray. If it is necessary to apply several layers, apply one, allow to dry completely, then another, and so the required number of times. The varnish is applied only with a spray gun, this will prevent hairs from a brush or hairs from a roller from appearing in the coating.

Laying an array of parquet flooring with your own hands is not as difficult as it is believed. Perform all operations carefully, do not be lazy to double-check the markup or calculations before any action. Material for a massive floor is not cheap, so it will be a shame to ruin it through inattention.

Video - laying solid oak boards:

The floor covering is installed at the final stage of the renovation. At least two months before the start of installation, all internal work that causes an increase in humidity in the room must be completed. At the time of installation, the relative humidity should be 40 - 60% at a temperature of 18 - 24 ° C.

Laying a solid board on a screed without plywood, a plank floor or chipboard in a floating way is suitable for small rooms, the main thing is that the base is even, strong and dry. It should also be borne in mind that heavy furniture can deform the floor.

The advantages of this styling:

• high speed of installation;
• the cost of laying a solid board (no need to buy glue and other components);
• ease of installation - installation can be carried out by one person;
• lack of rigid attachment to the base, which allows the floor to move freely during thermal compression or expansion of wood.

For self-installation, the following tools are required:

Before laying a solid board, it is necessary to assess the condition of the screed.

IMPORTANT: natural flooring requires an absolutely flat, clean surface. All internal work should be completed before installing the board.

The basis is required check for moisture. For this, there is a device that measures its performance in percent. To ignore the measurement at the first stage means to get soon:

- fungus (it can easily start in a humid environment);

- warpage (under the influence of moisture, the floor can swell and deform).

The best solution is to invite a specialist. The moisture meter should show - no more than 2%. There was an opinion that it is possible to do without the device. It is necessary to leave a piece of polyethylene pressed against the screed overnight. In the morning, inspect the place under it and if perspiration appears, then the humidity is increased. German scientists, after conducting such a study, found out: in the place where perspiration did not come out - the moisture meter showed 6%.

Test of strength will give a guarantee for the long-term use of the coating. You can conduct the research yourself:

• Walk along it. It crumbles underfoot, sand is felt - the worst option. Such a screed should be redone.
• Inspect carefully. Visible chips and depressions must be putty.
• With visual perfection, it is worth walking on the screed with a sharp object. There will be no damage on a perfect surface.

For laying a wooden floor, the following base indicators will be excellent: for compression - 25 MPa, for shear - 7 MPa. The exact indicators will be recorded by a device - Schmidt's hammer, which calculates a shock impulse under an applied load (another name is a sclerometer).

Additionally, a two-component epoxy primer will help to strengthen the base.

In addition to strength and moisture, it is worth paying attention to how smooth the base is. The permissible height difference is 2 mm per 2 running meters. An upward deviation from the norm will change the geometry of the floor. A two-meter rail or a building rule (which will be at hand) will help to check the evenness of the base. They need to be carried along the base and check the tightness of the strip to the floor. Revealed grooves should be putty, and protrusions should be sanded.

ATTENTION. After completing the preparatory work, debris, sand, dust should be removed. Thoroughly vacuum and prime the surface. At the exit, the screed must be level and clean before laying.

Substrate

The next stage of work is the laying of the substrate. It compensates for minor flaws, protects against moisture penetration and creates additional sound insulation. For "floating laying" the following types of substrates are used:

• made of foamed polyethylene;
• cork;
• rubber;
• fabric.

Temperature and humidity gaps

A floor made of natural wood, laid in a floating way, reacts much more to temperature and humidity indicators than. It is important to leave gaps around the perimeter of the room, taking into account all the elements that come into contact with the board (heating pipes, doors). When expanding, the board will have a place to "move". If they are absent, the floor covering will swell. The gaps are 10 - 15 mm per meter. With a width of 3 meters, 3 * 10 = 3 cm should be left. For ease of installation and prevention of displacement, wedges are used. They are placed over the entire adjoining area. After that, all the gaps will hide under the decorative skirting board.

Screed mounting

Before installing the floor, it is necessary that the material lie in the room for 2 - 3 days. It is undesirable to open the package. A sharp fluctuation in temperature will cause a change in the massif. First of all, you need to cull. Do not stack boards damaged during transportation. They must be returned or replaced before starting the installation of the solid board.

Spread - from the far left corner deck or diagonal way, perpendicular to the window. This technique is important technologically and aesthetically.

REFERENCE. Butt seams must be offset at a specific pitch to reinforce the joints. For an array, the gap should be at least 40 cm.

The first board is placed with a comb against the wall. The following boards are inserted into the groove and tapped with a hammer. The blows should not be strong, only knock on the bar. After three rows have been laid, spacer wedges are placed between the wall and the edge of the parquet field. Having planted the board in the center, move smoothly, tapping, to the edges. Additionally, the dies are attached one to one with glue.

Completion of work

The last row to be laid after measuring the distance to the wall. Since the walls always have a certain curvature, the values ​​will differ. Each board should be trimmed separately with a longitudinal cut to the required size at the installation site (remember about expansion gaps). For the convenience of working near the wall, where there is always little space, you need to use a mounting foot. It will help to firmly press one board against another.

We remove the spacer wedges and. His should be fixed directly to the wall. Then it will not interfere with the free movement of the floor when narrowing or expanding.

On plywood

Necessary materials:

• grinder (or circle);
• electric jigsaw;
• construction vacuum cleaner;
• primer;
• glue for solid boards;
• plywood - 10 mm;
• spatulas (including those with teeth);
• roulette;
• pencil;
• square;
• coating (varnish, wax).

Plywood is a good base for natural boards. It is attached to a screed, logs, wooden floor. If the concrete base is in poor condition, it must be re-poured for evenness. Allowing time for shrinkage and drying of the self-leveling screed, carefully grind it. All the smallest irregularities should be eliminated. Remove dust with a construction vacuum cleaner. Cover the entire surface with an epoxy primer. Pause to dry completely.

Cut plywood sheets into rectangular pieces to cover the entire surface. Before laying, for a firm adhesion of the sheets, glue is applied to the screed... Then the plywood is attached to the cement base with dowels.

Particular attention should be paid to the corners. It is also recommended to leave temperature gaps here: 1.5 cm around the perimeter, 2-3 mm between the rectangles themselves.

Grind the surface, remove dust and you can start laying the array on plywood. Before laying a massive board, plywood is coated with two-component glue to the width of one board.

Glue

Suitable for universal glue consisting of polyurethane mixtures and hardener. We recommend choosing a glue without odor, water and solvent. Which does not cause allergic reactions when it comes into contact with human skin, dries quickly and holds natural wood coatings firmly. German manufacturers adhere to such a high bar.

• During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the ridge enters the groove by gently tapping the board along its entire length. To increase the strength, each board is fixed with self-tapping screws every 25 - 30 cm. After the installation is completed, clean the entire floor surface.
• First, the array should be well driven into the groove, and only then it should be nailed.
• It is really cheaper to buy a high-quality floor. It is necessary to take an unprocessed board from a hardware store, carefully grind it, clean it from dust and apply varnish. With self-processing, you can save 25% of the cost of the same material with the coating already applied, or you can buy it.
• For temperature gaps, it is better to insert two dies on one board.

CAREFULLY. When installing with glue, you need to be extremely careful. Putting in a lot of glue can ruin the floor - it will come out from above when the dice are tapped with a hammer. At first, small spots on the surface are invisible. Daylight will "reveal" them. It is difficult to remove dried blotches. A special cleaner will be required. It should be used during work.

• After the installation is completed, the solid wood floor should, as well as withstand, in complete tranquility for 24 hours.
• To extend the period of use, it is recommended to observe the temperature and humidity conditions during the operation of the room.
• Use special care products for cleaning.
• Do not flood the floor with water.
• Place a spring mat under the computer chair.
• Pets (cats, dogs) running on the floor can quickly render it unusable. A durable, enhanced coating will protect the surface. True, the price of such products is high.

Useful video

How to lay a solid board

In contact with