Restoration of the enamel coating of a cast iron bath. Do-it-yourself complete restoration of the enamel of an old cast-iron bath: restoration features. Video - Bath enamel

Like any coating, the enamel becomes thinner over time, rust spots, stains, chips appear on it. When the most effective abrasive chemical cleaners fail to fix the problem, most owners decide to switch equipment.

But after assessing the laboriousness of installation work with material costs, they begin to look for alternative options associated with updating the old cast-iron bath. Despite the aesthetically unsightly appearance, the design, which is quite suitable for performing the main function in accordance with all operational characteristics, will last another half a century. It's all about the enamel coating. This means that something new is required, and thanks to new technologies, this manipulation is carried out in the shortest possible time.

Renovating or replacing a cast iron bathtub?

A radical method is to replace the plumbing tank. First of all, you need to calculate how much this procedure will cost. Let's summarize the cost of an ordinary classic bathtub with the costs of its delivery, including transportation and loading, taking into account the required floor. Dismantling of old equipment and installation of new ones are carried out in accordance with the company's price list. According to the most conservative estimates, at least 13,000 rubles will be needed. This does not take into account damage to the wall and floor coverings, which is inevitable in any type of installation work. Partial replacement of cracked fragments and cosmetic repairs will be required. Conclusion - getting rid of the old one and installing a new one is quite troublesome and costly.

Wouldn't it be better to think about restoration, with good functionality of an old bathtub with a thinned or washed off white surface? Moreover, a large amount does not guarantee an excellent result, since the purchase of the least budgetary capacity was originally meant. When choosing a better quality, convenient or design project, costs can increase significantly. If this method is not suitable for the owners, they think about affordable and effective restoration options. It is important to approach this issue competently, choosing the optimal solution.

Restoration of the old surface layer by "pouring" acrylic is the most popular method. The know-how technology was highly appreciated by the majority of consumers due to its simplicity and low cost. With this method, a liquid synthetic mass is poured onto the inner lining of the bathroom.

Advantages of bulk acrylic:

long-term durability. When applied correctly, the service life is designed for a period of 8-15 years;
Due to the density and plasticity of synthetics, an even smooth surface structure is formed;
The flowing mass smooths out all kinds of defects and scratches;
Acrylic is applied at a high speed, a simple application technology allows you to bring the volumetric layer of the surface to 6 mm;
The filling is characterized by the absence of a specific smell, so allergy sufferers, children and the elderly will not need another home for the duration of the renovation.

Significant disadvantages of bulk acrylic are:

long drying of the composition - 3 days;
Coating sensitivity. It is unacceptable for dust, dust to enter the drying plane, otherwise it will deteriorate;
The apparent apparent simplicity of the technological operation is extremely deceptive. In fact, pouring acrylic requires certain skills in working with a liquid mass;
Relatively high material costs compared to enameling. But the cost pays off given the increased service life and high quality.

Painting is often considered the oldest restoration method, when a special enamel is applied to a worn coating. The owner should be thinking about how to freshen up old equipment? There are two types of enamels: for professional use and for household purposes. The structure of the first is the thinnest, you will need to apply at least 3-5 layers. This is a laborious procedure. The latter are characterized by a thicker structure and, accordingly, two-layer styling is easier to apply. Apply the liquid coating with a roller or brush, trying to spread it evenly over the cleaned canvas.

Advantages of the enameling method:

is the most economical restoration option;
there is no need to dismantle the drain and the overflow does not require reconstruction;
this method is intended not only for cast iron products, but also for steel containers.

Enameling has the following disadvantages:

insignificant service life, less than 5 years;
drying time is about a week;
at the exit, the coating is non-glossy, uneven, sensitive to deformations;
a thin layer of enamel is not able to mask dents, chips, which may appear over time;
the appearance of a yellow tint during operation, since the original factory epoxy coating is radically different in composition;

Cold enameling is considered the cheapest and easiest restoration method. It can be compared to painting the canvas with a special compound. To extend the life of the enamel, you must heed the following recommendations:

to wash the renewed cast-iron coating, not abrasive cleaning agents that violate the integrity of the coating are needed, but a solution of washing powder or soap;
the new container must be protected from impacts, sharp objects can scratch the acrylic canvas;
enamel does not tolerate boiling water, it can crack. When filling the bath, before opening the tap with hot water, cold water is first turned on, and not vice versa.

Acrylic liner

For option 3, additional equipment will be required - an acrylic insert, which is mounted using the "bath in bath" method. This two-layer construction will last about 15 years. At the same time, a new acrylic liner is installed inside the old structure, which ideally follows its outlines. The stability of the additional element is carried out by means of technical adhesive foam.

This method has advantages:

acrylic is a more durable material than enamel;
due to perfect alignment, all defects and deformations of the cast iron sheet are smoothed out;
inert material does not turn yellow until the end of the service;
the two-layer construction successfully combines all the advantages of acrylic and cast iron.

Disadvantages of acrylic liner:

dismantling of the drain siphon will be required;
it is forbidden to apply the acrylic structure to areas of lightweight or thin cast iron, otherwise the bath sags and the adhesive layer moves away from the fixing insert;
in the bathtub method, the materials must meet the standards. Low-quality inserts or a composition not intended for gluing metal will negate all efforts;
requires careful measurement of the insert, down to the millimeter. The slightest discrepancy with the parameters of the basic structure is unacceptable.

All 3 methods of restoration are simple and effective, provide for preliminary degreasing and removal of dirt and limescale. You can get rid of greasy marks by using oxalic acid or baking soda. Then proceed to a thorough cleaning, removing plaque and deformed fragments until a flat plane is obtained. The next stage is grinding, the purpose of the bark is to obtain a rough surface. Unevenness of the web on contact with the adhesive will ensure maximum adhesion.

To restore or not - objective conclusions

Having weighed all the pros and cons, the owner must decide: to dismantle or restore the much-needed plumbing equipment. But with competent and qualified restoration work using high quality materials, the updated bathtub will look like new. If possible, you should trust experienced craftsmen who have proven themselves on the good side. Then an excellent result for a relatively small amount of money is provided.

Cast iron bath restoration video

The main defects in the bath coating are cracks, scratches and chips. Damage occurs after careless installation of furniture, plumbing and falling into the bathing bowl of heavy objects. Calling a wizard to fix problems will not be cheap, so it would be nice to learn how to repair a cast-iron bath with your own hands, would you agree?

We will help you with this issue. The article provides detailed instructions for removing chips, small and deep scratches, and also describes effective methods for restoring cracks. By studying the material, you can restore the attractiveness of the cast iron bowl and extend the life of the bath.

The use of multicomponent cleaning agents, cleaning the contaminated surface with a stiff brush, careless handling of metal objects during repairs - all this leads to the formation of shallow scratches.

Such scratches should be immediately removed, since the ingress of moisture, caustic chemicals into the formed gap leads to the formation of rust, the growth of moisture-loving microorganisms and an increase in the size of the scratch. Which will lead to further destruction of the bath surface.

Shallow scratches include damage that does not expose metal. This minor damage can be repaired even without priming the surface.

Crack restoration methods

Cast iron bathing bowls have become popular because of their high wear resistance and strength. But even such durable products have defects in the form of enamel chips, corrosion or cracks.

The appearance of a crack as a result of plumbing work or natural changes in water and air temperature becomes one of the reasons for replacing the bath. In some cases, the defect can be repaired.

Methods for eliminating cracks on the cast-iron base of the bath: by cold welding, by applying epoxy resin, brazing with lead-tin solder.

Option # 1 - cold welding

At the first stage, the bath is degreased and cleaned with Pemolux or soda. If there is rust around the edges and inside the crack, use a harsh abrasive such as Sanox or Chistin Sanitary.

The anti-corrosive agent is applied to the crack surface in a thick layer, moistened and left on the damage for 20 minutes. After rinsing off the cleaning agent, micro-stop holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled along the visible edges of the crack on one or both sides, depending on the location.

After degreasing, the surface is sanded with a grinder, an electric drill with a grinding wheel or an abrasive. Not only the crack is cleaned, but also the enamel around it by 1.5-2 cm in width.

The grinding wheel removes the coating down to the metal. At the place of the crack, a hollow is made for the entire length of the crack.

After sanding, the tank lining is cleaned of cuts and dirt. When the bathroom is dry, the crack must be degreased with solvent, alcohol or cologne.

Hot water is poured into the bowl for half an hour, after draining the surface is dried with a hairdryer. Now the processed coating defect can be covered with cold welding.

The bath can be used no earlier than after 24 hours. To even out the tone of the coating, the crack can be painted with a two-component acrylic or epoxy enamel.

Option # 2 - epoxy

The process of preparing a surface for applying epoxy resin practically does not differ from the technology of preparing a bath for applying cold welding.

Scheme of work:

cleansing and degreasing;
grinding and grooving;
additional degreasing.

After completing the preparatory work, it is necessary to prepare an epoxy resin or epoxy-based putty. A layer of epoxy resin is applied to the place of the crack, glass cloth on top and again adhesive mounting material.

After the structure has dried, it is necessary to repeat the procedure: epoxy - fiberglass - epoxy. As a result, a patch should be obtained above the enamel level, if not, then the procedure is repeated a third time.

Epoxy is the best way to repair cracks in the bathtub. The liquid texture of the material allows penetration into every microcrack, provides increased adhesion and protection of the metal

Option # 3 - crack soldering

If you have the skills to solder, then you can solder a small crack in a cast iron bath. This requires a thorough cleaning and removal of the enamel from the metal.

Soldering is done with a 100-200-watt soldering iron using lead-tin solder and a special flux for steel and aluminum.

This way of solving the problem takes time and skill. The seam will not last long, but it will work for a temporary fix.

To prolong the attractiveness and lifespan of a refurbished bathtub, it is necessary to do it right. For cleaning the surface, do not use hard brushes, which can damage the smooth enamel.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

For reliable adhesion of materials and durability of the coating, it is necessary to observe a clear sequence of preparatory and restoration work:

A high-quality cast-iron bath repair is a careful restoration of the most important plumbing fixture in an apartment.

Restoration of the damaged surface is possible as a result of the "jewelry" work of the master. The result of painstaking work and many hours of waiting will be a bath without visible chips, scratches and cracks, which will last another ten years.

Share with the readers your experience in restoring damaged enamel of a cast-iron bathtub and carrying out restoration work. Please leave comments, ask questions on the topic of the article and participate in discussions - the feedback form is located below.

- durable, wear-resistant and shock-resistant sanitary ware, which has been used as a washing container for hundreds of years. Previously, bowls made from this difficult-to-machine heavy alloy had no viable alternative. But even now, when hardware stores are full of more modern and diverse steel and acrylic models, they continue to be in demand.

The popularity of the cast-iron bath is explained by the fact that, despite the rather high cost, it has a long service life and maintainability. After 10-15 years of operation, when the enamel turns yellow or becomes covered with cracks, in order to restore the original appearance of the product with your own hands, it is enough to cover the bowl with a new layer of paint.

Features of cast iron baths

Cast iron baths are considered the most popular, as they have a long service life, wear resistance and impact resistance, and also do not require special maintenance. These sanitary ware are made by casting.

Cast iron is a material that is very difficult to process, since, with all its hardness and great weight, it has increased fragility. The greatest difficulties are caused by giving the alloy a rounded, curved shape, therefore the size and model range of bowls from it is not so diverse. The advantages of a cast-iron bath are:

Wear resistance... Cast iron washing containers can withstand more than 50 years of intensive use, while the strength of the product does not decrease. The enamel breaks down a little earlier, however, if you repair the bath with your own in time, you can completely restore the appearance of the coating.
Low noise... The thickness of the walls of the cast-iron bath reaches 8 mm, so they have a low resonance ability. Therefore, when drawing water, there is no strong noise, unlike steel models.
Repairability... The enamel of a cast iron bath generated during operation can be restored with your own hands. The repair is carried out by enameling, filling with acrylic or installing an acrylic liner.
Slow cooling... Cast iron is characterized by a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, due to which the water drawn into the bath from this alloy retains heat for a long time.

Important! Modern models of cast iron washing tanks are electrostatically enameled. In production conditions, powder paint is applied to the bath, which is melted under the influence of high temperature and then baked. High-quality factory enamel lasts at least 10 years, if you follow the recommendations for the care and use of the product. When chips appear on the old coating, you can repair the enamel with your own hands.

Enamel damage

The enamel applied to the surface of a cast-iron bath at the factory is considered sufficiently durable and reliable, after 10-15 years of use, even if all the manufacturer's recommendations are followed, it will lose its original appearance.

To restore the top coat, you can repair the bowl with your own hands by applying new paint. Over time, the following defects appear on the inner surface of the bath:

Note! If minor defects appear on the surface of the enamel coating, then it is better to immediately perform an inexpensive but effective repair - enameling the bathtub at home. Timely restoration allows delaying a more global restoration with an acrylic liner.

Enamel technology

The technology of enameling a cast-iron bath at home differs from the factory one, since special equipment is used in the production. Coating the inner surface of a plumbing bowl consists of 4 main stages: preparation of the container, mixing the compound, applying paint and drying.

Each of these processes is important, the stability and durability of the result depends on the correctness of the operations. To do the repair of the bath cover with your own hands, you must:

Please note that it is best to repair the bowl with a special enamel designed for bath restoration. Some craftsmen recommend using cheaper paint for yachts and sailboats, however, it will not last as long.

Technology features

Do-it-yourself enamel repair of a cast-iron bath is a simple and effective way to restore the appearance of a product. With minimal financial investments, it allows you to abandon the replacement of the old washing container, reducing the cost of repairing the bathroom.

This operation can be successfully performed with your own hands, if you follow the technology of applying enamel. Home enamel technology has the following features:

Experienced craftsmen claim that this method of restoration of a cast-iron bathtub has only 1 drawback - the drying time. However, this small disadvantage is offset by the inexpensive price, ease of application and durability of the result.

Video instruction

With proper care, the acrylic bowl will last for tens of years, but sooner or later, the coating still loses its gloss and whiteness. You can repair an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, just know about the different ways to restore gloss, their real effectiveness and the technique of performing work. Everything in order.

How to repair damage to the case

Acrylic baths have an extremely low resistance to mechanical damage. If the need for repair is caused by damage to the bowl from an accidentally dropped object, the integrity of the base should be restored before restoring the coating. Note that the steps described below are only necessary if the fiberglass layer is damaged, chipped or delaminated. If the base has remained intact, you can use the usual repair kit.

So, the first step is to remove any breakaway fragments and carefully inspect the edges of the hole. You need to make sure that there are no stratified scales at the edges. Otherwise, it may be necessary to remove the exfoliated layers, it is better to tear off the fragments from the outside.

To repair the base, glass mat with a density of 200 g / m 2 is required. If you are not sure about the presence of impregnation between the glass fibers, it is better to burn the scraps of glass mat in the flame of a gas burner. The binder is a two-component epoxy glue, a budget EDP will be enough.

The essence of the repair consists in the imposition of 5-7 layers of fiberglass on the cleaned and degreased surface around the breakdown site. First, with a brush, glue is applied to the edges of the hole with an indentation of 3-4 cm, then a piece of glass mat is laid and carefully smoothed, the size of which is 2-3 cm larger than the hole in each direction.

Each subsequent patch is glued after partial polymerization of the resin in the previous layer. To speed up the process, it is recommended to increase the concentration of the hardener by 2-2.5 times, thus, the interval between applying patches will be about 15-20 minutes. The dimensions of each subsequent patch should be 3-4 cm larger than the previous one. The bath will be ready for further work after complete polymerization of the resin, that is, the next day. Before the restoration of the coating, the puncture site is leveled with the composition of a standard acrylic repair kit and sanded flush with the total surface.

Is simple painting possible

There are only two options to restore the shine and whiteness of the acrylic coating. The simplest is aerosol-type epoxy paint marked with Ceramics. This method has a right to life, especially given the high cost of bulk acrylic and the complexity of its application.

The main disadvantage of painting is the inability of a thin layer to hide surface defects. The bath will have to be sanding for a long time and tiresomely, gradually increasing the grain index and removing large scratches and chips. Naturally, this should be allowed by the thickness of the acrylic layer - cheap bathtubs have a polymer coating of about 0.5-0.7 mm and most likely it will not work to restore them by painting.

Otherwise, everything is simple: the entire surface is cleaned to remove gloss, then wiped with acetone for degreasing. Next, paint is sprayed from a distance of 40-45 cm in one or two thin layers with an interval of 20-30 minutes. When spraying, the formation of drips should not be allowed, if they do appear, they must be blotted with a clean foam sponge and painted over again. You need to work exclusively in a respirator and exclude the occurrence of an open flame in the room.

One aerosol can is enough for 1.8-2 m 2 of surface. However, when calculating the consumption, the paint must be taken with a margin of about 50%. Firstly, one way or another you will be forced to eliminate errors and defects in painting, and secondly, you will have a "repair kit" without a difference in color.

How Liquid Acrylic Works

In short, an acrylic polymer is the same epoxy resin tinted with white. A feature of the material is its high adhesion, including to glossy surfaces. Despite this, the preparation for the restoration must be very careful.

First of all, the temperature and humidity regime is important. The drier the air in the room, the better, and the presence of splashes or drops must be completely excluded. The optimum temperature for applying acrylic is 25 ºС. It is at this temperature regime that the epoxy composition acquires the most optimal viscosity for application without a brush.

The difference in fluidity with a change in temperature, even by several degrees, can be very significant. At 28-30 ºС the layer will be too thin, and at temperatures below 23 ºС normal polymerization will not occur and the coating will not acquire the required qualities. Naturally, the bath and the air in the room must be at the same temperature.

Bulk acrylic loses its stickiness after 4-6 hours and completely polymerizes after two days. Until this moment, the room needs to maintain the optimal temperature regime, and in the first hours after application - in any convenient way to exclude the settling of dust.

Surface preparation for restoration

In any case, it is necessary to knock down the gloss from the surface of the bowl. This is done by hand sanding using waterproof sandpaper. Processing begins with a grain size of 200 grit, then increases by 100-150 grit every 2-3 stages. Sanding ends with a 600 grit treatment, after such treatment, the coating acquires a matte whiteness and is practically devoid of defects. At each increase in grain size, the bath must be flushed with water, getting rid of larger abrasive particles.

At the next stage, the largest surface defects, chips and scratches are eliminated. For this, you can use both a tough-plastic car putty and a repair kit for acrylic bathtubs. The latter is more preferable in the case when it is planned to restore the gloss and color by polishing, rather than pouring a new coating. In this case, the difference in whiteness will definitely be visible, although not very much.

After sealing defects on the surface, these places are re-cleaned until the surface is leveled. Before proceeding with the work, the bathtub must be rinsed with plenty of warm water, completely rinsing off the white dust, and then dismantle the plumbing and remove the remnants of dirt in the places previously covered with drainage nets.

Cleaning and degreasing

To restore an acrylic bath, special kits are sold, including 30-50 grams of one-component polymer, abrasive materials and polishing paste. Particularly noteworthy are the cleaner and primer in the bulk acrylic kits. The latter must be applied immediately before pouring the polymer, but it makes sense to use a cleaner only if you have not resorted to sanding.

To degrease the surface, you can use acetone or solvent 646. Oil-based products should not be taken, they are not very friendly to acrylate polymers. Do not forget that the surface must be absolutely clean and dry before applying the coating.

Polymer application

Before pouring a new coating, it must first be prepared. The resin is mixed with the hardener in the proportion set by the manufacturer. It is recommended to add about 80-90% of the recommended dosage of the hardener to maintain flowability for a longer time. This will make it possible to distribute the composition as evenly as possible without using a brush.

It is only necessary to mix the polymer by hand; using a drill or mixer will lead to the entrainment of numerous air bubbles into the liquid mass. It is necessary to dilute liquid acrylic immediately and in full, using a clean, dry container. After that, the composition is poured into another container of the same volume, this is done to avoid areas with uneven mixing in the corners and at the walls.

The empty container is placed under the drain hole of the bath, from the other acrylic is poured in a thin strip along the sides. It is recommended to first disperse the composition with a brush with natural bristles and moisten the sides with cuffs well to prevent the expensive epoxy from spilling out. Subsequently, it will be enough to pour the composition to the innermost edge, achieving the most uniform spreading along the walls.

When the entire composition is spilled, you need to wait 15-20 minutes and collect the remains of the polymer that has flowed through the drain hole, substituting an empty container. A new portion of the polymer is poured along the sides in those places where the layer is not thick enough and there are gaps. The procedure must be repeated until the resin stops flowing. In parallel, you need to watch out for places where uneven thick streaks can potentially form.

No matter how hard you try, you will not get a perfectly smooth finish with factory quality. To improve the result, you can lightly spray the still fresh polymer with a gas burner flame immediately after all the acrylic has been poured onto the surface. Rapid heating helps to get rid of the trapped gas residues and smooth the surface as efficiently as possible.

After drying, the bathtub will still need polishing, but not so time consuming. The polishing paste should be applied in small portions and rubbed over the surface with a fiber cloth. Polishing is carried out in wide circular motions; periodically, a fresh portion of the paste should be added to the napkin.

As you can see, repairing an acrylic bathtub is not an easy undertaking, but it is definitely easier and cheaper than installing a new bowl or liner.

Over time, yellow spots, a network of cracks, chips appear on the enamel coating. All this spoils the look of the bowl, becomes a problem for the hostess. Unfortunately, none of them will help here. The restoration of the bath enamel or the replacement of the plumbing fixture is required. It seems to many that the latter is the only correct decision. However, it is troublesome and associated with significant costs.

The cast iron container is very heavy. Dismantling and taking one out of the house alone will not work. The task becomes many times more complicated if the plumbing is tiled or the apartment is on one of the last floors. Subsequently, you will still need to bring in a new device, install it in place. Therefore, they try to carry out dismantling with replacement before repairs in order to immediately put the room in order.

If the repair is not planned, there is no free funds for the purchase of new plumbing fixtures, its installation, you can try to restore the damaged coating. There are three effective recovery techniques. All of them are available for independent implementation, do not require significant costs, and are relatively easy to implement. Even if you have to invite specialists, all the same, the costs of replacement and restoration differ significantly.

Preparing to cover the bath

Get rid of rust stains. We start with treatment with a solution or citric acid. Lubricate the area with plenty of liquid, leave for 30-40 minutes, rinse with water. If traces of rust remain, it will have to be cleaned mechanically.
We clean the old enamel. We clean it with sandpaper, or better with a grinder with a grinding wheel. There will be a lot of dust during the cleaning process. Therefore, we protect the respiratory organs with special means, put on overalls. At the end of the sanding process, remove the dust.
Deep chips, cracks are repaired for the car. We apply a layer, carefully distribute it over the defective area. After complete drying, we grind the processed fragment.
Before covering the bath with enamel, degrease it. To do this, we prepare gruel from water and carefully process the surface with it. You can take a special drug. In any case, after processing, we rinse everything well with hot water, dry it.

The dried container is once again cleaned of the remaining dirt particles. The best way to do this is with a vacuum cleaner. Then remove the drain, overflow, if any. Sections of the junction of the side and the wall are sealed with masking tape to protect the finish.

3 ways to restore enamel on a cast iron bath

Each of them gives a good result, provided that the work technology is not violated. Let's take a look at all three options.

Enamelling

It is easiest to do the so-called enameling with your own hands, in other words, the surface with a special compound. Most often it is enamel based, but there may be another remedy. The application method may vary depending on the composition. sprayed, the emulsion is spread with a roller or brush. The advantages of the technique are the ease of application, the low price of the necessary materials.

Of the shortcomings, you need to know about the fragility of the updated coating. It will last no more than five years. Poor quality formulations turn yellow after a while. Careful surface preparation is required before enameling. The liquid will not cover chips or other imperfections. It will take a week for the preparation to dry completely. All this time, you cannot use the plumbing. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

We prime the base with a suitable one, let it dry. Sometimes you need to warm up the bowl. In this case, fill it with hot water, wait 15-20 minutes, drain the liquid. Wipe the walls dry with a lint-free rag, only then remove the drain and overflow.
We substitute small containers under the holes of the plumbing fixture so as not to stain the floor. We are preparing a coloring preparation. Mix the two-component product thoroughly.
Apply the first layer. We start with the sides and gradually move on to the bottom of the container. We carefully distribute the paint, watch the layer thickness. It shouldn't be too big, especially at the bottom where paint builds up. If this happens, we correct this defect with a brush.
Apply two more layers in the same way. We wait 15 minutes, after which we check if there are sags or streaks. If necessary, we correct the shortcomings.

It remains to wait for the complete hardening of the enamel layers. Depending on the type of paint, this takes about five days or more. The dried surface must be polished. This is done with a drop of polishing paste on a soft cloth.

Liquid acrylic treatment

A good result is obtained by applying acrylic paste. After drying, it forms a durable coating that will last up to 10 years, subject to the rules of operation. does not turn yellow over time, but spots may appear on it. This happens when dyes, aggressive chemicals get in. There are traces of abrasive detergents, strong impacts with sharp objects. The restored surface must be protected from this.

There is no acrylic preparation, so you can work without a respirator. It dries no longer than 36 hours. During this time, the bathroom must be closed so that dust or debris does not get into the wet solution. Another plus of the material is the absence of drips, bubbles during application. The result is a perfectly smooth surface.

The disadvantage of the method is the need to acquire skills at work. If they are not there, it is better to first try your hand at something suitable. Without experience, there is a great risk of hopelessly ruining a plumbing fixture.

Stages of restoration

Preparing a two-component solution for work. Add the solvent in small portions to the bucket with the preparation. Mix the liquid thoroughly each time. The result should be a homogeneous paste. If this is not the case, the peeling process will quickly begin after application, which will ruin the new coating.
If planned, we add color to it. Its amount will determine the saturation of the future color. When tinting the drug, you need to take into account that after drying it will become a little lighter. After mixing and tinting, the solution is left for 10-15 minutes, mixed again.
We close the drain hole of the bath from above with a disposable glass, put a bucket under it for the dripping pasta. We collect a small amount of liquid acrylic in a bucket. Starting from the edge, carefully pour it onto the side. We move evenly along the entire bowl until we reach the place where we started.
After the liquid is glass approximately to the middle of the side, we repeat our actions. Pour the pasta from the middle of the side.
We remove the plastic cup. The acrylic that has accumulated at the bottom is carefully distributed with a spatula, directing the excess into the drain hole. We do this carefully, but quickly, without letting the mass grab.

It remains to wait for the acrylic paste to harden. Under normal conditions, this takes about a day, but it may take more. The exact time is specified on the packaging of the product.

Liner installation

Sometimes it is impossible to restore the enamel in the bathroom or you don’t want to mess with the paint, then the installation of an acrylic liner would be a good solution. To do this, you need to purchase a plastic bowl that will exactly repeat the shape and size of the old one. It is placed inside a cast-iron container, fixed with glue. The advantages of the method are obvious. Complex preparatory work is not always required, you can use the bathroom the next day.

The result is guaranteed to be good, which is not always the case when painting. The insert can be not only white, but any other color. He serves for a long time, at least 15 years. Provided that the requirements for operation are met. There will be one difficulty in execution: to purchase an insert of a suitable size. This is not always possible, especially for non-standard bowls.

Step-by-step installation process

We release the edges of the bowl along its entire perimeter. If necessary, dismantle the adjacent cladding or panels.
We examine the surface of the plumbing. If the enamel is smooth, you will need to sand it to improve the adhesion of the adhesive. To do this, we fix the sandpaper on a convenient holder, evenly clean the coating. After that, we wash off the dust, dismantle the drain and overflow.
We adjust the liner. Rub the edges of the drain and overflow holes with a stylus. We put the acrylic element in the bowl, press it lightly. The lead mark will mark the locations of the holes. We draw a line along the side, if you need to remove part of the acrylic sheet. Cut off the excess around the perimeter with an electric jigsaw. Cut holes with a drill with a crown.
We apply. We generously process the edges of the overflow and drain with a sealant. We do the same with the edges of the sides along the entire perimeter. Fill the remaining space with special foam. We apply it evenly, without empty areas.
We put the insert in place, press it with effort. At the edges we fix it with clamps with plates placed under them so as not to damage the acrylic. We install the drain, we collect water in the bowl. It should not reach 20-30 mm before overflow. The liquid will press down on the liner, which will ensure the normal polymerization of the foam, uniform fixation of the part. After a day, the water is drained. You can see the process in more detail on the video on the Internet.

We have discussed three effective methods of how to restore the enamel coating on the bathtub at home. The most short-lived result will be obtained by self-enameling, but this is also the easiest way to restore. When the renewed enamel becomes unusable, it can be painted again. It's much cheaper and easier.

Prepared by: Inna Yasinovskaya