How to install a pole on a concrete base. Fastening a wooden post into concrete. Fastening for floor logs, methods, brackets, pads and posts

Building material made of wood, despite its fragility, is constantly used in buildings. It is used as a base for fences, decoration of outbuildings, as details of the foundation. During work, the tree must be periodically attached to the concrete. Many questions immediately arise: how to properly install wooden poles, how to extend their durability? Answering them requires preparation.

general information

At first glance, the situation arises as difficult, but there are tricks that help to cope with the work without much difficulty. Before proceeding with the installation, it is worth choosing which tree the future base will be from and carefully processing it. Wood processing is an important process, because it deteriorates when exposed to the environment.

Processing is carried out on the prepared post. The support is divided into two halves, each of which is treated with a different chemical. The part that is underground is more susceptible to moisture, it is treated with bitumen-based solutions twice, maintaining an interval of 24 hours. The second part of the post is usually covered with varnish, protecting the wood from wind, sun and moisture.

Important! The wood must be dried before processing, and careful sanding will help save bitumen impregnation.

Installation methods

After completing the preparatory work, we proceed to the installation. We mark and prepare the place for the supports. Pole mounting options are determined by the design feature and the nature of the work. Installation is understood to mean concreting a support or fixing it to concrete. There are main ways:

universal concreting of the base;
using a concrete stepson;
installation on concrete;
use of the frame;
special compound;
platform with a box.

A versatile way - concreting

The installation of wooden poles using concreting is well suited for soils with low moisture content. The installation technique involves the preliminary preparation of the pits for the base, the installation of pillars in them and the filling of the remaining space with concrete.

To increase efficiency when digging holes, the earth is watered with water, the earth becomes soft and easy to cultivate. With a pillar height of 1.5 m, 0.5 m is sufficient for the pit, for higher pillars, the depth is increased to 0.8 m. The pillar is deepened by 1/3 of its length.

At an elevated level of groundwater, the supports are deepened below the level of freezing of the soil and the bottom of the holes is covered with a layer of rubble up to 15-20 cm, which acts as drainage. From below, the supports are wrapped with roofing material, fired, treated with resin for greater protection of the wood.

Having completed the preparation, they begin to tamp the holes. The holes are filled with crushed stone, pieces of brick mixed with the ground, compacted tightly. We leave 15-20 cm to the top of the hole, and the empty space is filled with concrete. After the mortar has dried, the pillar is firmly held and will not bend under the load. The joint between concrete and wood is treated with a sealant, which prevents moisture from entering between them.

The second way to install a wooden post is to use a concrete stepson. The essence of the concreting procedure is the use of not all, but a small column. The sequence of the procedure is as follows:

before installation, the support is treated with an antiseptic, the part of the stepson, which will be in the ground, is covered with bitumen and wrapped with roofing material;
crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the hole;
vertical fixing of the support with spacers;
be sure to cover the wooden post with rubble, gravel and compact well. To increase the density of the backfill, keeping the compaction interval (every 30 cm), adding sand and water will help;
15-20 cm from the top, the hole is filled with concrete mortar, which ensures stability.

After the concrete has hardened, it is necessary to secure the log with wire to small posts.

All photos from the article

In the process of performing various construction works, sometimes it becomes necessary to fasten a wooden post to concrete. As a rule, this operation raises many questions for novice craftsmen. In this article, we will figure out how to fasten wooden poles to a concrete base in several ways.

Wooden post mounted on concrete

General information

The need to install wooden poles on concrete can arise in a variety of situations, for example, when installing fences, building gazebos and other wooden structures on a strip foundation.

At first glance, it may seem that it is very difficult to install a wooden post on concrete, however, in reality, professionals have some tricks that allow you to cope with this operation without any difficulties. Below you can see for yourself.

Installing a wooden post on concrete

First of all, it should be said that the installation of poles on concrete is often understood as different operations:

Below we will take a closer look at each of them.

Concreting the support

Pillar concreting

Many novice home craftsmen doubt whether it is possible to concrete wooden poles, since wood in concrete can quickly rot. In fact, if you follow a certain technology, then the wooden support can stand for quite a long time.

The instruction for performing this operation looks like this:

The first step is to make a hole to the depth of soil freezing. In different areas, this depth may be different, but on average in our country it is 1.2 m. If you make the hole shallower, then there is a possibility that the column will be pushed out as a result of heaving of the soil. The easiest way to dig a hole is with a garden drill, but if you don't have one, you can also use a regular shovel.
Next, you need to fill the bottom of the hole with crushed stone or gravel, and tamp it well. The layer should be about 15 cm thick.

Treatment of timber by impregnation

Before concreting a wooden post, it is necessary to treat the wood with a protective compound. Currently, specialized stores sell special impregnations that protect wood from moisture penetration, exposure to microorganisms and other negative factors.
After processing, the post must be installed in the hole and secured with spacers. In this case, its position should be checked with a building level in order to prevent deviation from the horizontal.
Next, the space in the hole is filled with concrete.
Protruding concrete must be smoothed down with a slope from the pillar so that water does not accumulate near the wood.
Then the concrete must be covered with a damp burlap. During the week, it must be periodically moistened. This procedure prevents cracking of the concrete during the drying process.

In the photo - joint treatment with sealant

After the concrete has completely solidified, it is necessary to treat the place of its joint with the wood with a sealant. This will prevent moisture from entering the joint space, which will form during the freezing / thawing process.

Advice! The durability of a wooden structure largely depends on the type of wood. For example, pine and larch have good moisture resistance.

Moreover, the price of pine is the lowest among other species.

This completes the process of concreting the pillar. It should be noted that there is another way to install a wooden post in the ground. Its meaning lies in the fact that a small column (concrete stepson) is concreted, to which a wooden bar or log is attached to the surface with the help of wire strapping.

Securing the support with a concrete stepson

Advice! Before concreting, it is advisable to waterproof.

To do this, a roofing material, rolled into a tube, should be placed in the hole.

In addition, it is possible to securely fix the support directly in the ground without performing concreting at the same time.

According to this technology, the work is performed as follows:

After processing the support with an antiseptic composition, its area, which will be in the ground, is covered with bitumen mastic for wood and wrapped with a layer of roofing material.
Then the bottom of the hole is likewise covered with a layer of rubble and gravel.
Further, the support is fixed with spacers in a vertical position.
After that, the pit is backfilled and tamped. To do this, the space must be filled with stones, broken brick or large rubble. Every 30 centimeters, stones must be tamped with a crowbar, covered with a layer of sand and then spilled with water, which will increase the quality of compaction.
When about 15-20 cm remains to the top of the pit, the space needs to be filled with concrete. In this case, the concrete ring will provide stability to the support and prevent it from skewing.

Fastening for wooden support

Installation on a concrete base

The installation of wooden poles on a concrete base can be done in several ways.

With the help of a special fastener mounted in concrete - in this case, during the pouring process, a device is inserted into the concrete, which is a pin, at the end of which there is a U-shaped fastener. During installation, the bar is inserted between two "tails" of the device and fixed with bolts or screws. It should be noted that the U-shaped mount must correspond to the cross-section of the bar so that it fits tightly into the space. The disadvantage of this method is that it can only be used when pouring concrete, and only a beam can be installed as a support.

An example of fixing a bar

With the help of reinforcement - if there is no special fastening at hand, you can use reinforcement, which is inserted into concrete so that the pin rises about 20 cm above the surface.When mounting the support, a hole is made from its end with a diameter corresponding to the pin. Before installing the support, a waterproofing gasket must be laid on the concrete.

As a rule, with this method of installation, the lower and upper strapping is used, uniting all the supports into a single structure. Therefore, this option is usually used in the construction of arbors and other structures on a strip foundation with their own hands.

Base-box for the installation of supports

With the help of a box with a platform - this method is used in cases where you have to deal with hardened concrete. The principle is based on the fact that a bar or log is inserted into a special box, to which a platform with holes is welded on the bottom side. As a result, the box with the post is fixed to the concrete surface using dowels.

Here, perhaps, is all the information on how to fasten a wooden post to concrete.

Output

As we found out, it is really not difficult to fix a wooden post on a concrete base. The only thing is that it is necessary to strictly adhere to the above technology so that the support is not only securely fixed, but also protected from environmental influences. This will allow the structure to last for many years.

You can get additional useful information on a designated topic from the video in this article.

rubankom.com

Fastening a wooden post into concrete

general information

At first glance, the situation is difficult, but there are tricks that help you cope with the work without much difficulty. Before proceeding with the installation, it is worth choosing which tree the future base will be from and carefully processing it. Wood processing is an important process, because it deteriorates when exposed to the environment.

Important! The wood must be dried before processing, and careful sanding will help save bitumen impregnation.

Installation methods

Base-box for the installation of supports.

universal concreting of the base;
using a concrete stepson;
installation on concrete;
use of the frame;
special compound;
platform with a box.

A versatile way - concreting

Concrete stepson

The second way to install a wooden post is to use a concrete stepson. The essence of the concreting procedure is the use of not the entire log, but a small column. The sequence of the procedure is as follows:

before installation, the support is treated with an antiseptic, the part of the stepson, which will be in the ground, is covered with bitumen and wrapped with roofing material;
crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the hole;
vertical fixing of the support with spacers;
be sure to cover the wooden post with rubble, gravel and compact well. To increase the density of the backfill, keeping the compaction interval (every 30 cm), adding sand and water will help;
15-20 cm from the top, the hole is filled with concrete mortar, which ensures stability.

After the concrete has hardened, it is necessary to secure the log with wire to small posts.

Concrete base

Installation of a wooden support using a concrete base is easy to accomplish in several ways:

Special anchorage embedded in concrete. A special fastening means a pin with a special fastening in the form of a letter P at its end. The cross-section of the timber must necessarily correspond to the dimensions of the fastening so that the tree easily fits into the device. The inserted bar is attached with screws, bolts. The method has its drawback - only timber is used as a wooden support.
Armature. In the absence of a specially prepared connection, use ordinary fittings. The inserted iron pin into the concrete should protrude 20-25 cm above the surface. A hole is drilled on the support, which in diameter corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement. A seal is applied to the concrete to protect the structure from water penetration. The size of the seal is smaller than the wooden support. The joints between the pillars and concrete are covered with mortar. If necessary, the upper and lower straps will help to connect all the posts into a common structure. This option is more often used on a strip foundation.
A box with a platform is used for hardened concrete. The wooden material is placed in a specially made box, to which a platform is welded from below. Dowels are screwed into the holes on the platform, with which the box is attached to the concrete.

Fastening a tree to concrete is not difficult, provided that all technologies are followed. It is worth taking care not only of reliable fixation of the material, but also of the minimum impact on the environment of the tree. Then the wooden supports will serve you for many years.

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Several easy ways to install wooden poles and prices for materials

The fence is one of the most important parts of the architectural ensemble on your site. There are a huge number of different types of fences, but one of the most beautiful and at the same time simple is a wooden fence.

Hedge tree

When installing such a fence, it is worth paying great attention to its supports. Today we will look at how to make, install and process wooden poles with our own hands.

First of all, you should choose what kind of material you want to build your fence from. It is believed that the most reliable and durable is larch. Pine or oak is also an excellent option for them. The most important thing to remember when installing its supports is pretreatment.

A wooden fence can sooner or later start to rot and deteriorate, so wood processing is a necessary process when building fences. The workpiece should be divided into two halves, each of which will be treated with a different protective chemical. Let's start by processing that part of the wooden post that will be in the ground all the time. It is more susceptible to the constant influence of moisture, therefore, it requires the use of a specially prepared impregnation based on bitumen. It is recommended to impregnate the wood twice with bitumen, at intervals of 24 hours. Remember that before directly processing the workpieces, they must be dried so that the humidity inside each is no more than 15%. And to save bitumen impregnation, you should carefully and carefully polish the surface of the workpieces.

Photo. We process the pillars

In the photo you can see that the bituminous impregnation is black, so that surface of the pillar that will be reliably hidden in the ground should be processed. If you do not have such impregnation, you can safely use a blowtorch for processing.

Advice! To slow down the rotting process in the future, do not forget to get rid of grass and weeds that contribute to moisture and dampness.

The upper part of the pillar is usually treated with a special varnish, which contains an ultraviolet absorber. Experts advise using AVIS timbercoat varnish, which has a high level of protection of wood from wind, moisture and dampness.

Installation of supports

Let's go directly to the installation of wooden poles, and you yourself will see that making a wooden fence with your own hands is very simple. First you need to mark the places for the pillars. Use pegs, a cord, and a tape measure.

First of all, determine the location for the corner support, at this point, drive in a peg and measure the length of the run in a straight line. 2-2.5 meters is considered optimal - this way the fence will look smooth and will not bend from its own weight. Further, in order to establish the foundations, they dig a hole for each to the depth of soil freezing - this is about 1.5 meters.

Important! Wooden pillars are mounted in the ground at least 1/3 of their height, especially so that they cannot loosen from wind or shock. The pits themselves should not be very wide, enough holes 20 centimeters wider than the pole itself.

Tamping and filling holes

The bottom of each pit is filled with lightly fine gravel or crushed stone, and only then a pre-prepared and processed post is installed. If you know that the level of humidity in your area is off scale, then in addition to chemical treatment of wooden posts, you also need to wrap it with a piece of roofing material, thereby protecting the wood. When installing the post, it is checked with a water level and fastened with spacers.

The next step in assembling the bases with your own hands is the stage of filling and tamping the holes. You will have to fill the pits where the supports stand with large rubble, broken brick, stones mixed with the ground. In each hole, everything must be tamped well with a crowbar, covered with sand and poured with water - this way, tamping will take place faster. At the top of the pit, there should be an empty space, about 20 cm, where the concrete solution is poured.

Another mounting option

There is another way to install wooden poles. It requires you to prepare metal anchors concreted into the soil. You can look at the photo more clearly.

Pole anchors

Thanks to this option for installing supports in the ground, you can avoid contact of the tree with the ground and moisture, therefore, prevent its early decay. Using a drill in the ground, you need to make a hole up to 100 cm deep, then place a pre-rolled pipe made of tin or roofing material into this hole. It is such a pipe that will be the formwork for the future foundation for your wooden fence and poles for it.

Support installation process

The next move is to fill the pipe hole with concrete: cement + gravel + sand; do not forget to slightly raise the pipe so that a plateau forms under it (the solution will spread along the bottom of the pit and a sole will form at the bottom of the wooden post). The sole is needed in order to interfere with the forces of frost heaving, which displace the pillars from the ground.

Next, insert a galvanized anchor into the pipe and fill the pipe to the top with concrete. The anchor should protrude 3 cm from the formwork itself and not border on concrete. The concrete itself should harden in a day if the work is done correctly.

Installation diagram of supports for the fence

Wooden posts are installed after 3 days using a screwdriver through pre-prepared holes. At the moment, you can familiarize yourself with the prices for wooden boards, beams and poles that are necessary for your fence.

Name	thickness	width (mm)	length (meter)	Price per cubic meter
Planed board, grade 2	18	95-145	from 2.0 to 6.0 meters	9 000
Planed board	18	95-145	from 2.0 to 6.0 meters	13 000
Planed board, grade 2	20	95-120-145	from 2.0 to 6.0 meters	9 000
Planed board	20	95	from 2.0 to 6.0 meters	12 500
Planed board	20	120	from 2.0 to 6.0 meters	12 500
Planed board	20	145	from 2.0 to 6.0 meters	12 500
Board (impregnated with antiseptic)	20	95-120-145	from 2.0 to 6.0 meters	to order
Planed timber	95	95-145	6.0	to order
Bar (impregnated with antiseptic)	95	95-145	6.0	to order
Wooden post			up to 11 meters and to order	from 1500 to 6000

The installation features can be seen in the video:

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Fastening wood to concrete: the use of specialized adhesives, polyurethane foam. Fasteners using dowels

In this article we will look at the question of how to glue wood to concrete. Sooner or later, many people who have started repairs in an apartment or in a house face the problem of combining these materials.

The need to glue such materials occurs when a wooden floor covering is laid on a bare concrete screed or plinths are installed with their own hands, wooden fillets are mounted, etc. However, sometimes fasteners are needed for more solid and weighty objects and this turns into additional difficulties.

Fixing the board with dowels

Fastening methods

In the photo - the installation of wooden slats for the installation of wall panels

Over the long history of construction work, a large number of methods for fixing wood to concrete have been tested. Among the current and commonly used methods, we note the use of specialized assembly adhesives and the use of fastening hardware.

Let us consider the features of the implementation of these methods and find out which materials are optimal for carrying out such work.

Application of specialized adhesives

Installation of wood on a concrete staircase

If the cutting of reinforced concrete with diamond circles was carried out, and now the installation of small in size and weight wooden parts is necessary, you can use special assembly adhesives.

Correctly selected adhesive composition allows you to reliably fix not only the baguettes or skirting boards, but also the lining on the stair steps. However, you need to understand that the range of adhesives is wide, and therefore you should only count on the optimal result if you select the right product.

If you need glue for concrete and wood, pay attention to the following compositions:

Construction glue "Liquid nails" is a relatively inexpensive and at the same time effective solution for working with materials of interest to us. "Liquid nails" and are presented on the market in several modifications, namely, "Universal", "Express", "Super strong", "Extra strong", "For panels", etc.

Assortment of glue "Liquid nails"

If the question is how to attach a wooden block to a concrete wall, a particularly vicious and versatile modification will be the best choice.

The universal type of glue "Liquid Nails" is an excellent choice for interior applications. For example, with such a tool, you can successfully glue lumber wall panels to pre-cleaned and dust-free concrete.

But if you are interested in how to glue wood to concrete at sub-zero temperatures, you will need "Liquid nails" especially strong with a gripping force of up to 70 kg per 1 m². This glue will hold the wood even on uneven concrete at temperatures down to -17 ° C.

Moment glue is a wide range of different compositions with different technical and operational properties.

In the photo - a two-component composition "Epoxylin Duo"

Of particular interest is the modification "Epoxylin", which is a two-component composition that works with a wide range of materials, including concrete and wood.

After drying, the composition not only reliably holds the glued surfaces, but can also be sanded or subjected to other mechanical processing without compromising the adhesion strength.

Another modification of the Moment glue, through which you can connect concrete with wood, is the Moment Joiner. This tool has found wide application in the process of laying floor coverings made using lumber.

Polyurethane foam is a good option for simple and effective gluing

In the photo - the use of polyurethane foam

If necessary, you can use increased strength polyurethane foam as an adhesive. It is a good solution for wood flooring, installation of window sills, wall panels, etc.

This method of joining two surfaces has a number of advantages, including:

affordable price in comparison with other adhesives;
high bond strength after complete drying of the composition;
low degree of thermal conductivity, which is important when decorating floors and walls;
excellent soundproofing qualities;
hydrophobicity;
biological resistance;
simple application instructions.

However, there is also a significant drawback, namely prolonged drying of the foam. Therefore, within 5 minutes, the part to be glued will have to be held in the desired position so that it does not move away from the surface.

Important: To ensure optimal contact between the bonding surfaces and the foam, they must be slightly moistened with water.

Surface preparation is the key to success

Whichever of the above compositions you choose, both surfaces must be properly prepared before attaching the wood to the concrete. In order for the result of installation work to be a strong and durable connection, both surfaces must be as smooth, dust-free and grease-free as possible.

The main problem is the porous structure of the material, especially if diamond drilling of holes in concrete has been carried out. This property is the reason for the excessive absorption of adhesives, and therefore the connection does not have time to gain the proper strength.

It is not difficult to make a coating of concrete that is prone to adhesion, for this you need to reduce the number of pores. For this, deep penetration primers are used, which seep into the porous structure of the material and solidify there. As a result, the micropores are closed, and the density of the concrete allows the use of glue.

Important: Sticking wooden parts to pre-prepared concrete substrates should be strictly in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer of the adhesives.

Fasteners using dowels

If you need high-quality and durable fastening of a wooden post to concrete, ordinary glue or foam is indispensable. In this case, you can use fasteners designed for high mechanical loads.

Heavy wooden parts can be attached using dowel nails and anchor bolts. The principle of operation of these fasteners is similar, since after they fall into the concrete, their working part begins to burst. As a result, the fastening of wooden posts to the concrete base is very strong.

Output

There are many ways to reliably join concrete surfaces to wooden parts, but maximum strength will be guaranteed if preliminary preparation is carried out. The need for priming and dedusting the concrete disappears if the connection is made by means of dowels.

You will find more informative and useful information by watching the video in this article.

Wooden beams are a practical building material. Low price, low heat loss, low weight and ease of installation of a house from a bar make this material very popular. However, it is not so easy to fix the timber to the foundation, because the tree cannot be glued to concrete or welded to metal. In this article, we will talk about how the timber is attached to various foundations, what they pay attention to and what mistakes they make.

Types of foundations for a house from a bar

Waterproofing

The lower beam, as well as the wooden grillage, must be properly protected from water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creosote or other equally effective (and most often unpleasantly smelling) substances. If it is not possible to process the grillage or the lower beam with heavy fractions of oils, then less effective substances must be used, and at least 2 layers of roofing material must be laid between the foundation or the iron / concrete grillage and the timber. This is a material that falls out during temperature extremes. Indeed, in the morning the air temperature rises, and the temperature of the foundation or grillage remains unchanged. If you use a wooden grillage, then waterproofing must be laid both under it and above it. This will keep the wall dry and prevent mold and rot.

Which mounting method is better

When choosing a mounting method, consider the following factors:

timber moisture;
climatic conditions;
seismic activity;
the strength of the most frequent winds.

For fixing a wet (over 16%) timber to a wooden grillage, only shrinkage compensators must be used. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

After all, a bar of high and especially natural moisture gives a very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. To attach a beam of high or natural humidity to a wooden grillage, it is necessary to use an analogue of a shrinkage compensator, only made not from a screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same method can be used when installing a bar on threaded rods. Instead of a nut and washer, a nut, two washers and a spring must be used. The same method of fastening should be used in those regions where there are heavy and long rains in the spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use a lower bar with a moisture content of no higher than 12%, treat it with the most effective waterproofing and install it on the most rigid fastening (regular and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure. The same approach should be applied in regions where wind speeds often exceed 20 meters per second. Neglecting a rigid mount in seismically active or windy regions will cause the mount to loosen under the influence of external factors and the house will begin to sway. Neglecting shrinkage compensators when working with a bar of natural and high humidity, as well as in regions with frequent and heavy seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the cap and the foundation or grillage.

Question. Hello! A neighbor in the country put up a wooden fence and poured concrete round wooden posts. Tell me, is it possible to fill wooden pillars with concrete?

Answer. Good day! The fence posts are poured with concrete so that they do not squint from the time and load of the fence. Therefore, the wooden poles are not just "possible", but "must" be poured with concrete. The only question is in preparing such pillars for contact with concrete. Below is the technology for installing wooden posts for a fence "on concrete".

The best woods for posts are oak or larch. Oak and larch, even in their untreated form, are highly resistant to decay. However, for reliability, the part of the post located in concrete should be treated with two layers of BT 577 bitumen varnish or two layers of MBI bitumen mastic.

The length of the part of the column, buried in the pit, is taken to be approximately 30% of its total length. In this case, the surface should be covered with mastic or varnish in the format of 30% of the total length plus 5-8 centimeters to ensure reliable protection against splashing rain and snow.

With a high standing of groundwater, the column is buried below the depth of freezing of the soil in a given area, and drainage is poured onto the bottom of the hole - fine crushed stone with a layer of 20 cm.

It is best to drill with a hand-held garden drill with a 200-250 mm diameter nozzle. A garden drill can be purchased at a local gardening store or online store. The need for this tool in a private house arises constantly, so it should be in the arsenal of every private household.

So, the wooden posts and holes in the ground have been prepared, you can either buy ready-made concrete or proceed to independently preparing the concrete solution. The following materials and tools will be required:

Portland cement CEM I 32.5N PC (old marking M400);
sand;
small rubble or construction waste (broken brick, broken tiles, etc.);
halves of red brick (fight);
water;
building level;
putty knife;
bucket;
shovel;
steel trough or iron sheet;
a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 12-20 mm, a length of 1.5 meters (rammer).

In a trough or on a sheet of iron, concrete components are mixed in the following proportions: 3 buckets of rubble, 3 buckets of sand, 1 bucket of Portland cement and about 0.5 buckets of water. Everything is thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous creamy mass. More water can be added if necessary.

The post is placed in the hole, vertically aligned and fixed with brick halves driven between the post and the ground. Further, the volume of the hole between the post and the ground is filled with concrete and "bayoned" with a piece of reinforcement.

An important point! The pillar is poured 3-5 centimeters above the ground level. The part of the filling protruding above the ground is smoothed with a spatula "from the column to the soil surface", ironed and covered with polyethylene for 2-3 days.

The most correct version of the porch is when its foundation is cast together with the house. In this case, there are practically no problems. Sometimes, when planning a building, they forget about it. Then the porch is attached to the house. An extension is made mainly of three materials: wood, metal and concrete. If the house is brick, they can lay it out of bricks. Another option is to make from building blocks with subsequent finishing. In any case, when planning to make a porch with your own hands, you immediately need to decide what kind of foundation to make and connect it or not with the base of the building.

How to calculate parameters

First you need to decide which side the steps will go to. They can be on one, two or three sides. Determine this based on personal preferences and finances that you can / want to allocate for construction. The height of the porch depends on the height of the plinth and should be 50-70 mm below the edge of the door leaf. This small step prevents precipitation from entering the interior of the house. Perhaps more importantly, it does not allow the doors to be blocked if the porch rises from frosty heaving (if the doors open outward).

Determining the size of the upper platform

The layout of the porch begins with determining the size of the upper platform. If the doors open outward, you should be able to stand on the landing to open the doors. That is, its depth should be 30-40 cm more than the width of the door leaf. According to the recommendations of GOST, the dimensions of the site should be 1.5 times the width of the doorway. More is possible - less - undesirable - inconvenient.

If your doors are 80 cm wide, then the depth of the upper platform at the very minimum is 120 cm. You determine its width based on the tastes and proportions of the house, but it should definitely be larger than the width of the doorway.

We count the number and sizes of steps

You know the height of the porch: 50-60 mm below the door leaf. The recommended step height (riser) is 15-20 cm. Divide the porch height by the step height, you get an approximate number of steps. The number is rarely whole. The remaining centimeters can be divided between all steps or made one of them higher. Another option is to make a small step at the bottom, although this can be inconvenient.

The optimal step width (tread) is 25-30 cm. Knowing the number of steps, the depth of the upper platform, the depth of the steps, you can calculate the dimensions of the entire porch. According to them, it is already possible to develop the foundation under the porch.

When choosing the parameters of the steps, it is necessary to adhere to the SNiP recommendations: the sum of the pass and the doubled riser should be within 600-640 mm. For example, you calculated that the height of the step (riser) you have is 17 cm, the tread (depth of the degree) is 280 mm. After completing the calculations, we get: 170 mm * 2 + 280 mm = 620 mm. We fit into the recommended parameters, so nothing needs to be changed.

What foundation is needed

If the porch is planned to be light - wooden or metal - the foundation is most often made pile or columnar. Specifically selected based on geological conditions. On well-draining soils with a low groundwater level, it is enough, with a tendency to heaving, it is already needed, perhaps.

For a heavy porch - made of brick or monolithic concrete - they make a strip foundation or. The type of foundation is most often the same as the one on which the house is built.

Then you need to decide whether you will tie the porch foundation to the house foundation or not. Decisions are made based on the planned mass of the extension and the type of soil. Both options have drawbacks. If there is no connection, cracks often form at the junction of the porch and the house; due to frost heaving, the porch can warp. Owners of summer cottages often face such a problem - basically, the porch to the cottages is made wooden and incoherent. After the ground thaws, it may itself "sit" in place, or may require some additional measures.

When the connections are made, cracks can also form, but not only at the junction, but also in the "body" of the extension. This happens if the reinforced ties arranged cannot compensate for the uneven load created by the house and the extension. Therefore, a connected foundation for a porch is made if it is attached to a heavy house and itself is heavy and massive, made of reinforced concrete. The second difficulty with such a decision is to make the connection of high quality. For this, ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm is used, for which holes are drilled in the foundation with a given diameter. They clog the reinforcement and knit a frame for the porch on its basis.

There are two main ladder designs: bowstring and stringer. They can be made of wood, metal. There are also combined options - metal + wooden steps or metal + concrete steps.

Ladder constructions - on bowstrings and on stringers

On bowstrings

Bowstring stairs are the simplest. For a porch - a good option, especially if the house is wooden or a small country house. Support bars are attached to the inside of the bowstring. If you work with metal, the bars are welded horizontally (it is possible with a minimum slope of 1-2 ° in order for water to drain off the steps). In the case of wood, support bars can either be nailed, to which the step will then be attached, or recesses are cut in the bowstring (no more than 1/2 of the board's thickness) into which the step boards are inserted.

On kosoura

A staircase on kosoura can also be of a simple design - with open supports. In this case, triangles are cut at the required angle at the top of the board. Their lower part serves as a support for the steps.

When cutting a kosour, lay the height of the step and the width of the tread. They are connected at right angles. A template is made according to the markings, with the help of which all the steps are marked.

The number of stringers in a staircase depends on its width and on the thickness of the boards used for the steps. The thinner the board for the steps, the more often you need to put stringers. If you are using 25 mm boards, then there should be a distance of no more than 50-60 cm between the two supports. If you need a wide staircase, but do not want to put three stringers, use thicker boards. It is important that they do not bend under your feet.

If you decide to weld a staircase on kosoura from metal, you will need to be patient: you will have to weld many small sections, but the principle of formation is the same.

Ways of fastening parts

The bottom edge of the porch staircase can sometimes rest directly on the ground. This option is simple but unreliable. First, the soil may settle, the stairs will collapse. Secondly, upon contact with the ground, both wood and metal are destroyed faster. There are special impregnations for wood (Senezh and Senezh Ultra, for example), and metal is well formed with a primer and painted in several layers. Nevertheless, it is better to make a base - pour a shallow tape on which the bowstrings or stringers will rest.

There are two ways to attach a staircase for the porch to a reinforced concrete base - to a bed - a bar with a cross section of at least 75 * 75 mm or to a foundation bar of a smaller section (in the photo on the left).

Difficulties may arise with the installation of porch pillars. There are several ways. There is one very simple and effective one that works great even on heaving soils (clay and loam). Holes 50-60 cm deep are dug under the pillars. In them, a bucket and a half of sand is poured onto the bottom, tamped well. Half a bucket of rubble is poured over the sand and also rammed. They put a pillar, align it to a level, put spacers that will hold it in a given position. The space between the wall of the hole and the pillar is gradually covered with rubble, carefully ramming it. The hole is filled flush with the ground, the top can be concreted (so that precipitation does not drain), but not spilled to the very bottom. The pillars installed in this way do not lead even with strong heaving. A significant part of the water goes into the sand, and the crushed stone takes over the remaining forces of frost heaving, neutralizing them.

If piles, a strip foundation or a monolithic slab are poured under the pillars of the porch, a columnar base is folded, then studs or special glasses are walled up in concrete for fixing wooden racks. After the concrete has matured, the racks of the racks are attached to them with wood grouses or bolts.

If the racks are metal, a corner with a wall thickness of at least 3-4 mm is laid in concrete, so that it can be easily cooked to it later.

When building a wooden porch with your own hands, questions may arise about fixing railings and balusters. They can be assembled on ordinary nails, but if desired, you can use bolts or wood grouses. In this case, holes are pre-drilled, then fasteners are installed in them and tightened with an angle wrench. Such a connection is definitely more reliable than just nails.

If the porch is attached to a freshly cut wooden house in which shrinkage has not yet been completed, and the porch design provides for the presence of a canopy, the racks must be fastened to special adjustable plates.

We draw your attention to the fact that both the metal and the wood that you will use to build the porch require careful processing. The porch is exposed to all climatic influences and the materials require good protection.

Monolithic concrete stairs

The most durable stairs are made of monolithic concrete. It takes more time to make them than metal or wooden ones, but their service life is calculated in decades. The types of concrete stairs are described in detail in the video. The basics of the calculation are also given.

How to make a concrete staircase on kosoura with your own hands, see the next video.

Wooden porch

A porch made of wood is one of the most common options in our country. Wood is plastic, easy to handle, costs relatively little (in our country), forgives many mistakes. That is why it is a favorite building material.

It also has disadvantages: it requires good protection before starting construction (antibacterial impregnations and fire retardants), as well as regular maintenance - updating the protective paintwork. Then it looks attractive for a long time, otherwise it quickly loses its decorative effect.

One of the options for building a wooden porch with a ladder on bowstrings can be seen in the video. We draw your attention to the fact that a porch is being built on sandy soil, so the used method of installing the pillars is not suitable for everyone. The rest is clear.

Brick porch

Since brick is a dense and heavy material, a serious foundation is required under a brick porch. Usually it is a monolithic slab, with double reinforcement and it is better if it is larger in size than the planned porch.

When calculating the parameters of the steps, it is necessary to take into account the size of the brick and the thickness of the seam between them. Then it will be easier to lay it - no need to cut the brick. If you are not going to cover the porch, use high-quality material for the outer rows. Inner rows - backing up - can be made from combat or building blocks and their remnants.

Brick porch with wooden steps

If the house is on a high plinth, making a monolithic brick porch is too expensive. Then the columns or walls are folded, leaving an empty space inside. It can then be used for household purposes or covered with decorative shields. If you need an upper platform, from above these columns / walls are covered with a concrete slab - homemade or ready-made - this is by choice. Then a ladder is attached to the resulting base. It doesn't have to be brick. It can be metal, concrete or combined.

Photo report: wooden porch on a metal frame

Theory is just theory and in construction too. You always understand the essence of the matter better if you observe the process yourself, because you can see how others are doing and learn something for yourself.

At the request of the parents, an exact copy of the old porch was made. The only difference is that a metal frame is welded for the new one.

On the site of the demolished porch, a foundation pit was dug 25 cm deep. Sand was poured into the bottom layer by layer and compacted, on it - rubble - 10 cm each. A metal mesh with a cell of 10 cm was laid on top, and all this was filled with concrete.

According to the previous dimensions of the porch, a metal frame is welded (from a corner of 70 * 5 mm). The sides are set vertically and secured with studs. Further, the base for the benches is welded to them. All metal is treated with a rust converter, covered with primer and painted twice.

The wood was used for construction dry. The planed boards were cut to size (porch width) and impregnated for direct contact with the ground.

We lay the dried boards on the frame. You have to drill a hole for each mount - you just can't take a corner.

At this stage, two mistakes were made at once. The first is that the cladding was not started from the sidewalls. They immediately began to lay the steps. As a result, water constantly flows into the joints of the side cladding and steps and the wood is barked. It is necessary to start the cladding from the sides, and make the steps a little longer so that they protrude beyond the side cladding by at least a couple of centimeters. The second mistake is that the boards on the porch are stacked close to each other. At high humidity, they swell and the surface becomes uneven. When installing the porch sheathing, make gaps of at least 5-8 mm.

After all the boards are fixed, they are sanded. First with a coarse-grain belt sander, then a disc sander with a fine grain. The process is lengthy. In parallel, the task is being solved - to remove the green color of the impregnation. It does not even overlap with three layers of tint.

After sanding, we start painting. Apply three times. Each layer after complete drying of the previous one. As a result, the color is dark mahogany.

While the paint dries completely, we start making benches. We cut the boards under them, grind the oblique chamfer (for beauty), cover with impregnation.

We make the backs with a small decor - rounding along the edges.

We saw along the marked lines with a jigsaw, then we grind to a smooth edge.

The sides are covered with plywood, which has been painted the same color. The porch is ready.

DIY finished wooden porch - side view

DIY brick-concrete porch: photo

The walls of the staircase were pre-made of bricks, on top of which a monolithic concrete slab was poured. Along the edge, a frame from the corners is monolithic into it - so that the stairs and railings can be welded.

Porch plan: how everything should look

From a corner of 70 * 70 * 5 mm, we cut the workpieces of the required length. Then we treat them with a rust converter. We begin to cook after the reaction has stopped and the metal has dried.

We welded the first metal bowstring.

The finished sidewall was attached to the concrete base with two pins.

Fastening to a concrete support support

In the same way, we cook the second bowstring and fix it. When working, make sure that the two bowstrings are in the same plane.

We begin to weld the support bars. It is important to constantly monitor the horizontal position so that the steps are not oblique.

We weld the transverse pieces of the corner to the support bars so that a shelf is obtained.

The corners are welded to form a frame. We put a piece of sheet slate in it. We lay out a reinforcing metal mesh on the slate. Weld the edges of the mesh to the frame.

Pour concrete into the prepared steps. We make it high-quality so that the steps do not wear out longer.

While the concrete is gaining strength, we take up the racks that will support the canopy over the porch. For them, we take a profiled pipe 70 * 40 * 3 mm. We cut four columns from it. Two are slightly longer - they will be near the wall of the house, two are 15 cm shorter - they stand along the outer edge of the porch, creating the necessary slope - so that the water-snow melts normally. For handrails and crossbars, we use a profiled pipe 40 * 40 mm.

All metal is also treated with a rust converter.

First, we set up racks, grab them, install temporary stops

To avoid lateral stresses, it is important to set the racks strictly vertically. We expose them, grab them, in several places with short seams, again check whether they are standing correctly. We weld on temporary stops and only after the next check we weld in accordance with all the rules.

After all the posts are set up and welded, you can assemble the railing. At the desired height, they are fixed strictly horizontally.

Then we proceed to the installation of the roof. We also cook it from a 40 * 40 mm profile pipe. First, the strapping around the perimeter - at the level of the shorter racks, then - the rest of the structure. It is not difficult, but it takes a lot of time - a lot of intersections.

Then it was the turn of the handrail and decoration. And again, there are no difficulties, it will cope easily if desired.

Everything, the porch is ready for finishing work. Rough tiles for outdoor use were purchased on the steps and landing. The sidewall of the monolithic slab was also trimmed with it.

The metal is painted with the paint matched to the tone, the corrugated board left after the installation of the roof went to the roof. The porch with my own hands turned out to be quite good.

Photo ideas for the design of the porch

Porch to a wooden bathhouse or cottage - a staircase made of logs

Porch sheathed with WPC - wood-polymer composite