Timber frame for plasterboard partitions. Fastening plasterboard sheets to a frame made of wooden beams. Fasteners on a flat and curved surface

Today drywall is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular and demanded materials. This is due to its affordability and undeniable ease of use. It is very often referred to for leveling the floors in the house. Today we will talk about how you can attach drywall to the walls, as well as get acquainted with all the pros and cons of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before embarking on the study of such a finishing material as drywall, it is worth figuring out what it is.

Drywall is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with hard plaster and special fillers inside. It is used for a wide variety of purposes. For various jobs, sheets are produced with different thicknesses. Plasterboard panels can be laid not only on walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose the materials of the appropriate category.

Peculiarities

Today, in stores of building and finishing materials, you can find absolutely any product for any repair work. For leveling walls, customers are offered high-quality putties, plasters and other practical compounds. However, many people choose "dry" material for such works - drywall.

Today, the problem of uneven walls is familiar to many. It is faced by both the owners of private houses and city apartments. However, it is quite possible to make the floors even on your own, without involving a team of finishers.

Uneven floors are bad not only because they look unpresentable, but also because many finishing materials cannot be applied to them. These include tiles, most types of paints and wallpapers. On a base with drops and potholes, such coatings do not hold reliably, and they look very sloppy. Many of the finishing materials do emphasize irregularities on the walls.

In such cases, you cannot do without a perfectly flat and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat look. In addition, sheets of this popular material are extremely easy to process and can be coated with almost any canvas and paints.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall using a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless installation method, which experts consider more complicated.

When choosing one or another installation method, it should be borne in mind that you need to work with drywall carefully. This is due to its peculiarity, which is fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the drywall, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to return it to its original appearance. That is why, for the manufacture of, for example, arched structures, ordinary drywall is not suitable, since with slight bending it will simply break.

Another distinguishing quality of drywall is its multitasking ability. It is used not only for leveling different bases, but also for the manufacture of interesting multi-level ceilings, shelves with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other finishing material, drywall has advantages and disadvantages that you should be aware of if you decide to install it on the walls in your home.

First, let's take a look at the list of positive qualities of drywall sheets:

They are distinguished by a flat and smooth surface, because of which they are chosen for leveling various substrates.
The advantage of drywall is its thermal conductivity. The room where the walls are sheathed with this material will always be warm and cozy.
Drywall is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. It contains no hazardous and harmful substances, so it can be safely used even in the decoration of children's rooms.
GKL sheets are fireproof and do not support combustion.

Another significant advantage of drywall is its vapor permeability. Thanks to this quality, such material is not susceptible to the formation of mold and mildew.
Often, consumers buy exactly drywall, since it has an affordable price, and is used for a variety of purposes.
Plasterboard walls can be supplemented with various insulation materials (more often they prefer foam and mineral wool).
Working with drywall is fairly straightforward. You don't need to buy expensive tools for this.

Using this finishing material, you can bring to life any bold design ideas. That is why many designers use drywall in their designs.
Drywall does not require expensive and regular maintenance.
No unpleasant chemical odor emanates from GLA.
It handles seamlessly. To do this, you can use almost any material, from ordinary paper wallpaper to tiles.

Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any room. This can be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter, it is necessary to select moisture-resistant canvases.
Thanks to gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
With the frame method of fastening drywall, the rough walls do not need to be prepared for a long time and meticulously with the help of special compounds. It is quite enough to treat them with antiseptic agents to avoid the multiplication of harmful microorganisms.
Many consumers purchase drywall for repair, because it can be used immediately after purchase, letting them lie down for 2-3 days without subjecting additional preparation.
Today, the choice of drywall sheets allows you to choose the best option for any conditions.

As you can see, the list of positive qualities of drywall is quite impressive.

However, it also has its weaknesses:

Plasterboard is not recommended for installation in rooms with high humidity levels. For such conditions, it is worth choosing exclusively moisture-resistant types of material. However, according to experts, even such drywall in humid conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
Drywall sheets can begin to crumble, especially under heavy loads. That is why it is not allowed to hang heavy objects such as large clocks, hanging sinks in the bathroom, lighting fixtures, large paintings and other objects of considerable weight on gypsum walls. Otherwise, these things will not stay in their places for long, and then they will simply fall off and damage the drywall.

You need to work with drywall very carefully so as not to damage it. Do not fold this material unless it is arched.
Drywall on the frame will "eat up" some space in the room, so this method of installing the material is not suitable for all areas.

How significant are the listed disadvantages - each consumer must decide for himself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you choose the right material and strictly adhere to the instructions when attaching it to the walls.

Materials and tools

If you decide to independently install drywall on the partitions in your home, then you should stock up on tools and materials.

From the toolkit you will need:

special knife for cutting drywall sheets;
special glue (for frameless mounting method);
a building level, a plumb line, a special marking cord, a tape measure, a long ruler (you can take a rule instead), a pencil / marker - you will need these tools to mark the walls and to correctly control the verticality of surfaces;
normal and rubber hammers;

spatula (you can take a trowel instead);
a separate container for mixing the adhesive;
screwdriver;
puncher;

self-tapping screws;
dowels;
screws;
electric drill with mixer attachment;

long-handled roller;
soft brush;
plane (needed to cut a chamfer);
putty (for applying a finishing layer after all work).

From the materials you will need:

GKL sheets (ordinary, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the installation of the sheets is planned);
galvanized profile or wooden beam (to form a frame with an appropriate installation method).

Application area

Drywall is a versatile material. It is used in a wide variety of conditions and fixes seamlessly on a variety of substrates.

You simply cannot do without this material when it comes to a wooden house or a log building. In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require proper alignment. However, it should be borne in mind that wooden houses always shrink and drywall boards can be installed in them only after the completion of this process. Otherwise, the sheets may be damaged or deformed under such conditions.

To install drywall on walls in wooden houses, you must:

provide space for the installation of insulation (if, of course, you plan to additionally insulate the room);
have free space for laying communication systems.

Aligning walls in wooden houses is not easy. In this case, frame installation will be the best option. However, some owners first attach sheets of plywood or chipboard to boards and bars, and then glue drywall onto them.

Drywall can also be attached to walls with a concrete base. For such surfaces, it is not at all necessary to make a complex frame. Drywall can be glued to such substrates using special glue. Such adhesives are very common in stores today. For example, the high-quality composition "Perlfix" is offered by the well-known company Knauf.

Drywall is often used to level brick walls. Here you can also refer to the usual gluing of the material without making the frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out with the help of a level how curved the floors are, after which any dirt, dust and greasy stains are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall must be completely dry, otherwise sufficient adhesion to drywall cannot be achieved even with high-quality glue.

In case you want to align the walls of foam blocks, then you should turn to the frame installation method. This is due to the softness of such grounds. However, some users turn to frameless installation, but before that, the foam block must be prepared - finished with soil or plaster.

Aerated concrete walls also often require leveling. In such cases, you can use both frame and frameless mounting methods. In the second case, it is necessary to treat aerated concrete bases with a deep penetration primer. In such cases, the glue must be selected especially carefully, as in cases with overlappings from foam blocks. Experts recommend using formulations from Knauf and Volma Montazh.

Drywall will be able to make the walls even, even in adobe houses. Such structures are full-fledged composites built from clay, earth, straw and sand. Of course, with such building materials, there is no need to talk about ideally even partitions. For this reason, leveling sheets such as drywall are simply necessary in them.

Mounting methods

We have already mentioned above that gypsum plasterboards are attached to the walls by making a frame or frameless. The choice of one or another installation option largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the preferences of the owners.

On profile

This type of drywall installation is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame, consisting of metal profiles fixed along the wall.

It is worth considering some of the nuances of this common installation method:

Insulation can be placed between the wall and the profile, if necessary. Most often, consumers choose mineral wool, penoplex or polystyrene for this. However, we must not forget that the rough walls must be treated with an antiseptic composition before laying the insulating layer.
Various engineering communications can be hidden in the cavity behind the frame. It can be water pipes, radiators or electrical wiring.
Do not forget that in rooms with a high level of humidity, it is permissible to use only moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary sheets in such conditions will not last long.

Mounting drywall sheets on a frame has a number of advantages:

with such an installation in the room, additional noise and heat insulation is provided;
frame installation allows you to align even ugly curved walls;
before installing the frame and fastening the drywall, the rough partitions do not require preparation (it is enough to walk on them with antiseptics).

Let's take a closer look at the step-by-step instructions for installing drywall on the frame:

First, you need to measure the walls and make markings on them for the installation of metal profiles and suspensions.
The layout for the guides must be started from the top profile. In this case, the necessary indent is made from the overlap, then a line is drawn and with the help of a plumb line it is transferred to the floor.
The vertical profiles must be spaced at least 60 cm apart. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each plasterboard sheet rests on three racks.
As for the installation of suspensions, here it is also necessary to maintain a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame. First, you need to fix the guide profiles around the perimeter. To screw them to the ceiling and floor, you must use a hammer drill, dowels and screws.
At the points marked during the measurements, you need to attach the suspensions.
Carriers should be inserted into the guide profiles and secured with hangers.
Fasten all the details as securely and tightly as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire structure as a whole will depend on the quality of the frame.

Before installing drywall sheets, it is necessary to strengthen the horizontal guides.
When the frame is ready, you should proceed to installing drywall sheets on it. They must be fixed in an upright position. To do this, you can use special metal screws 25 mm. But they need to be screwed in such a way that the caps are slightly "recessed" into the drywall.
After installing all sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using a reinforcing tape.
When the putty is completely dry, the drywall attached to the frame should be completely putty. After that, the surface of the wall decoration will be perfectly flat and smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, this installation technology is simpler. However, it should be borne in mind that such a design will take away part of the area in the room, therefore, in a very small room, it is better to use a frameless method, if, of course, overlapping allows this.

Profile-free constructions

Frameless drywall fastening is called glue in another way, since with it the sheets are fixed on the ceilings using a special adhesive.

Choosing this installation option, you need to comply with the following conditions:

there should be no mold or mildew on the rough floors;
crumbling areas should also not be;

walls should not be exposed to freezing;
they must be protected from dampness and excess moisture;
it is necessary to remove old finishing materials from the surface of the walls, as well as dust, dirt and any other contamination.

Frameless drywall fasteners can be used only if the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile frame.

You can glue gypsum plasterboard to the base in different ways.

The best option must be chosen based on the technical condition of the floors:

The first mounting method is designed for smoother surfaces. With it, the fixing of plasterboard sheets occurs directly on the wall using mounting gypsum glue. It is transferred to the base along the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
If the floors have irregularities on their surface, then it is recommended to glue the drywall onto them using Perlfix glue. It must be applied in portions along the entire length of the back side of the plasterboard (maintain a distance of 35 cm between the glue piles), as well as along its perimeter.

Now it is worth considering in more detail the instructions for the non-profile installation of drywall sheets:

First, you need to measure the floors and plan the placement of drywall boards.
Then it is necessary to competently prepare the surface of the base. If the wall has a porous structure, then it should be covered with a primer mixture.
Now you need to cut out the sheets of gypsum board, since not only whole panels, but also pre-prepared inserts will be useful to you.
To make a straight cut, it is best to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make curved cuts, then you should use an electric jigsaw.

Prepare the glue. To do this, you can use modern gypsum solutions, which harden for a long time.
If the glue dries too quickly and you want to extend the drying time, then add wallpaper adhesive or good old PVA to the dilution water.
Now you can start gluing drywall to the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive. It directly depends on the area of irregularities on the base. If the overlap is sufficiently even, then the mixture can be applied to it immediately.
To eliminate significant curvature, it is worth installing beacons. They can be built from plasterboard strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued along the entire perimeter in a vertical position, maintaining a step of 40-50 cm.

Right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb line.
After that, focusing on the mounting line (or thread) stretched between the extreme beacons, you need to install the remaining strips.
Line up the beacons with the rule.
Plasterboards must be pressed using the rule set in the various positions. Tap the panels with a rubber mallet and correct their position.
When the glue is dry, the seams between the drywall panels must be finished with putty.

Drywall is a lifeline for wall alignment. Installation of gypsum sheets cannot be called unbearably difficult and energy-consuming.

To give you a more aesthetic and reliable design, Consider the following tips and tricks from professionals:

Installation of gypsum plasterboards in the room is permissible only after laying the flooring. Also, by the time of leveling the floors in the room, all issues regarding the laying of communications and heating systems must be resolved.
When gluing drywall (with a frameless method), try to avoid cross-shaped joints. It is better to lay out sheets with an offset.
Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets for non-profile installation. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor - 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
In order for the drywall to reliably hold onto the floors, it is necessary to pay attention to their technical condition. There should be no crumbling or crumbling areas in the walls.

With the frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cut material (it is needed for a better sealing of all finishing seams). For this, it is recommended to use a special edge planer.
It is recommended to prepare all tools and materials before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without distraction or wasting time on unnecessary actions.
Adhesives must be diluted, based on the instructions. It should be printed on the packaging.
Do not overtighten fasteners on drywall as this can deform the fragile material.
To work with drywall, you need a level. Of course, you can choose the tool that is more convenient for you to work with, but experts advise turning to laser devices.

Pay attention to temperature conditions during installation work. The recommended temperature is +10 degrees. If the room is noticeably cooler, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
It is recommended to install gypsum plasterboards on the walls not immediately after purchase, but after it has been in your home for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.

It will only be a question of the longitudinal (vertical) scheme for the manufacture of cladding. The approximate manufacturing sequence for cladding on a wooden frame is as follows:

1. Mark the position of the lathing bars and cut them to size. When cutting the racks, subtract the thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars from the wall length.

2. Install the racks and the upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars over door and window openings, slightly shifting the vertical short bars so as not to make cutouts in the drywall.

4. Finish (paste over the gypsum board) window and door openings inside. Nail drywall sheets onto the walls.

5. Nail sheets around window and door openings.

6. Close up the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls for finishing.

Walls made of brick and masonry are rarely perfectly flat, therefore, when making plasterboard cladding, all irregularities should be taken into account. The great difficulty is the alignment of the battens vertically and horizontally. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, even and smooth walls will not work.

Installation of the frame with an uneven wall is performed as follows. First, the unevenness of the wall is revealed. The cut out lower horizontal beam of the future frame is placed on the floor against the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Marking is carried out for racks with a step of 600 mm. Then press the rack bar vertically to the wall and at regular intervals mark the position of the end when it goes beyond the line on the floor. Connect the marks with a second line parallel to the first. Attach the support bar to the floor with the outside edge running along the outside line of the mark. Install vertical beams on the support, aligning their outer surfaces, inserting, if necessary, spacers. The evenness is checked with a plumb line, level and rule. The horizontal bar is fixed at the ceiling level. It is more convenient to first install the two extreme racks (vertical bars) and pull the cord between them. Then they install intermediate racks and check the evenness of the installation along the cord.If the floor is uneven, then something is also placed under the support bar in the right places (so that it is installed at the same level), and then all the other bars are exposed.

To level the racks, use scraps of plywood, fiberboard, wood of the required thickness. You can apply a little wood glue to the spacers before hammering into the blocks. Gaskets are also installed in cases where the ends of the bar lie tightly on the surface of the wall, and there is a gap in any of its middle part (concave wall).

When deflecting over a large section, the distance between the dowels should be reduced to increase the rigidity of the bar.

If the room has a flat floor and if its area allows, it is possible to simplify the process of installing the frame. To do this, carefully measure the inner perimeter of the wall. Then a frame is assembled on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm in length and 5 mm in height. Bearing beams are inserted into the resulting frame with a step of 600 mm, and they are fastened with nails driven through the frame into the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the assembled frame lies with its front side on a flat floor, it will already have a flat surface when assembled. Therefore, the stage of alignment of each bar according to the level is thus excluded. It remains only to insert the assembled frame into the perimeter of the wall and, aligning their edges, fix it with dowels with screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for conventional (universal, etc.) dowels is performed using an electric drill. To do this, the bar is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Having asked the partner to securely hold the bar in its original position, drill through holes in it with a step of 800-1000 mm so that the drill at the exit makes marks on the wall. The drill diameter should be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws used. After that, the wall is drilled for the installation of dowels. The holes of the dowels after their installation will exactly match the holes in the bar.

In the event that the fastening of the bars has to be performed without a partner, then they do this. Find the point of location of one dowel. A hole is drilled in the wall (floor, ceiling) under it, into which a dowel is installed. After that, the bar is fixed on one dowel and, holding it with one hand so that it does not move, drill through holes in the bar until a clear mark is obtained on the wall. After that, the block can be removed or simply rotated around the axis of the installed dowel (after unscrewing the screw a little) so that access to the marked places is opened. After that, holes are drilled and the remaining dowels are installed.

It is most convenient to fasten the frame to a brick or concrete wall with dowel-nails. The bar is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, through holes are drilled in it with a step of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill a hole in the wall. The diameter of the drill with a victorious tip is determined by the diameter of the dowel.

The frame is fastened to a wooden wall using long galvanized nails.

Plasterboard wall cladding can be started either from the corner or from a window or doorway. To fasten the cladding to a wooden frame, use wood screws 35 mm long with a fastening pitch of 250 mm or galvanized nails (preferably special serrated) 40 mm long (for sheets 12.5 mm thick) with a fastening pitch of 200 mm. GKL is attached around the perimeter and to the intermediate posts (see Fig. 47). The distance from the edges is the same - not less than 10 mm from the edge of the edge lined with cardboard and not less than 15 mm from the edge of the unlined edge. Work is carried out from the corner in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. The nails are driven in until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the nail head nor the screw should tear the paper. There should be a space of 5-7 mm between the sheets of drywall for finishing the seams. A gap of 10 mm must be left between the floor and the end edges of the plasterboard sheets. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm between the ceiling and the upper end edges of the drywall sheets. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws must be putty and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire room in height, the sheets when facing are placed with displacement of adjacent end joints (sprawling), and transverse beams are mounted at the joints.

When working with gypsum board, a variety of materials are used. More often builders give preference to frames made of metal profiles. But there are also floors made of wood.

Plasterboard finishing of a wooden house

Some people prefer to use wooden floors due to the environmental friendliness of the material, despite the disadvantages. These are: biological corrosion, adaptability to climatic influences and flammability. The special treatment will increase the resistance to the listed influences. When performing a wooden frame for drywall, you should know the important points that ensure reliability.

Installed frame for plasterboard cladding

To erect a partition with their own hands, they use beams of coniferous trees with various cross-sectional sizes, the choice of which depends on the sheathing method and the height of the partition being erected.

The main requirements, subject to which the structure will last longer:

Indoor humidity level - less than or equal to 18%;
For partitions, the height of which does not exceed 3 meters, the riser is a section of 6x5 cm, the lathing is 6x4 cm;
For partitions over 3 m - lathing and riser with the same section, which is 6x5 cm.
The choice of plasterboard depends on the height of the partition. The ratio of the height and thickness of the sheet is directly proportional, the higher the structure, the thicker the gypsum board;
Regardless of the chosen height, section and thickness, the step is 60 cm;
Treatment that reduces the material's flammability index is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the first fire safety group;
Fastenings are performed using nails, screws, thorns. Using the latter type of fastener, the connection becomes stronger and will last longer;
For sound insulation, use mineral wool with a thickness of at least 5 cm and no more than 6 cm;
The thickness of the new partition with the highest value is 132 mm and the smallest - 85 mm;
The insulation index is calculated based on the selected partition thickness. It ranges between 41 - 51.

DIY plasterboard finishing

Before starting the installation, the wood lies for a couple of days in the conditions in which the frame will be erected. During this time, she will undergo acclimatization.

Chemical treatment is no less important than fire-fighting. It is aimed at a productive fight against a variety of factors of biological origin. Let's consider in detail:

Mold and mildew make the used lumber unusable, which is fraught with destruction in the future;
Natural decay - necrobiosis, decay. Antiseptic treatment prevents these natural processes;
Insects. Many species of these representatives of the fauna render the material unusable;
Rodents are no less dangerous. The special composition is able to scare them away.

Antiseptic

Various chemical compounds act as antiseptics. Due to the effectiveness, preference is given to sodium fluoride. It is a light gray powder that dissolves in hot water. The structure of the bars allows the sodium to penetrate deep. The indisputable priority is the poor leachability of the solution, it does not decompose, without a nasty odor, is not toxic and does not have a corrosive effect on the metal.

Sodium fluorosilicate is also used, to which soda ash is added. This combination converts the former into pure sodium fluoride.

Antiseptics with an oily structure are prohibited for use in residential premises. It:
Anthracene oils;
Shale;
Coal;
Creosote.

They are toxic and can cause considerable harm to people.

Wood damaged by insects

Partition frame assembly

Editing begins with tracing - marking. It is applied to the floors used for the construction of - walls, floor, ceiling. Initially, the gap is measured where the partition will be located. The width of the gypsum board used is additionally measured from the marked line.

For these purposes, it is advisable to use the ceiling-wall line. Having outlined the required point on the ceiling, it is transferred down, this is easy to do with your own hands using a plumb line. At the selected point, a nail is hammered, to which the plumb line clings, at the opposite point where the plumb line points, a mark is made. The connection of the dots forms the first line. Then a perpendicular is drawn along the wall.

The resulting point, after holding the perpendicular, is transferred to the ceiling using the same plumb line or bubble level. Thus, the third line is obtained. The fourth is created by connecting two open points. As a result, a rectangle comes out, which acts as the basis for the partition.

Tracing

Frame and features of its installation

Frame - a structure consisting of vertically and horizontally located beams and a frame. Its installation begins with the construction of the frame. The bars are fixed along the lines outlined earlier. If the walls in the room are made of wood, then it is better to choose spikes or self-tapping screws as fasteners. Otherwise, these are screws and dowels. The frame is fastened with brackets or hangers.

Installation involves the use of integral beams. Especially when it comes to a doorway. Wherever it is located (in the middle or near the wall), there must be solid bars on its sides. The holes are made with a percussion drill used for concrete surfaces.

Shaping the future door

After the installation of the frame is completed, proceed to the construction of the opening for the door. In order for do-it-yourself work to be done soundly, follow the sequence of actions:

Risers are mounted on each side of the opening, taking into account the size of the door to be installed. The opening is about 5 cm wider;
The uprights are reinforced with bars to give additional rigidity;
The horizontal partition is mounted a couple of centimeters above the box by connecting to a rail mounted on the ceiling. To do this, take two beams and set them vertically. They serve as a place for joining the gypsum board and give greater rigidity.

Finished frame

The final stage of work

Installation assumes the presence of a step between the posts of 60 cm, not less. If the size of the plasterboard is less than the height of the ceilings, horizontal lintels are installed, which will serve as a place for attaching additional sheets.

Determining the location of the vertical lintel (above the door frame) is easy. It is enough to attach the installed gypsum board and put a mark. The edge of the sheet is in the middle of the lintel.

For people doing the installation with their own hands, the masters give advice: it is better to connect the beams with metal plates and corners, which are used when assembling rafter systems. They are reliable and can withstand heavy loads.

Observe the horizontal and verticality of the jumpers and racks. To determine them, the level is used. When installing the racks with your own hands, place them so that the maximum number of whole sheets of plasterboard can be attached to the wall. This saves material and time.

It is easy to assemble such a wooden structure with your own hands, without the help of a second person. The technology of plating the gypsum board of a wooden frame is the same as in the case of working with a metal structure. Doubters can watch the video and see if these words are true.

For the construction of a partition made of wood, high quality lumber is used.

Insulation is essential

If the partition performs not only a decorative function, the masters advise to isolate it. Installation of insulation is carried out after sheathing with plasterboard sheets of one side of the structure made of wood. Foams or mineral wool are more commonly used.

Doing this step with your own hands is not difficult, because the distance between the material and the racks is almost the same. The material is laid and fixed. Rigid insulating materials are attached to the inside of the lined partition. If cavities are found during installation, they must be filled with mineral wool. This combination will give the partitions an additional soundproofing effect.

In contact with

Plasterboard wall cladding provides for the device or wooden beams. Metal lathing is predominantly used, it is more durable and more practical.

In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions for the frame, it is permissible to use wooden blocks, humidity 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and fire retardant compounds. In places with high humidity, as well as where it is required to increase the fire resistance of structures, only a metal frame is used.

What kind of timber is needed

For the device of wooden frames, choose a bar with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls). Basic requirements for the material: moisture - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.

What fasteners and connection methods are needed

The connection of the frame parts, their fastening on the wall and ceiling are performed dowel-nails... In concrete surfaces, holes are pre-made with a perforator with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

Additional fasteners include metal corners... They join vertical racks with horizontal ones. The fastening of the guides of the wooden beams is carried out in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest posts).

The metal plate is applicable for both walls and ceilings

The connection of the elements of the wooden frame with each other is performed self-tapping screws at an angle or metal perforated corners. The installation of the bars on the wall is done with an indent from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without indentation, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical posts are attached directly to the wall. If it is a curve, it is leveled with special compounds or by placing wooden spacers in the right places.

Requirements for materials and rules of work

In the set of rules for design and construction, there are basic requirements that must be met to create a strong frame and the subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main ones:

All products and materials must have a hygienic certificate and fire certificates;
In the space between the frame and the rough base, where the operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat-, sound-, fire-insulating material;
Water absorption of waterproof and water-resistant plasterboard sheets should be no more than 10%;
GKLVO sheets (moisture-resistant) are used in rooms with an air humidity of no more than 90%, a temperature not exceeding 30C. When using them, waterproof primers, putties, paints are used for surface treatment;
To fasten GKL sheets with a thickness of not more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, up to 24 mm thick - TN45;
With the longitudinal placement of the sheets, the step of their fastening is made no more than 60 cm, with the transverse - no more than 1.25 m;
To improve the sound insulation properties of the structure, a sealing tape is laid between the guide rails, the ceiling and the floor;
Fixation of sheets to the frame is carried out with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm, (spacing) with an indent from the edges - 10 mm (edge with cardboard), 15 mm - (cut edge);
The joints of the sheets with their vertical arrangement should fall on the center of the racks, with the horizontal - on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
The pitch of the load-bearing beams on the ceiling is 50 cm with the transverse arrangement of the gypsum board, 40 cm - with the vertical one;
The step of fixing the gypsum board on the ceiling is no more than 17 cm.

Step-by-step construction instructions

The installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after the end of the wet processes and before the assembly of the finished floor, on the ceiling - after the completion of the finishing and laying of utilities. All work is carried out in the following order:

Markup;
Frame assembly;
Installation of sheets;
Finishing work.

1. Markup

On the floor and ceiling, the position of the future starting beams of the frame is applied with a chopping cord, taking into account their thickness. The transfer of marks between the floor and the ceiling is carried out with a laser level or a magnetic plummet. At the same time, the location of the doorways, the attachment points of the vertical pillars, taking into account the selected step, are noted.

Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical posts. To do this, make an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or decrease the step of the profiles in the right places.

2. Assembling the frame

Along the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with dowel-nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars are installed adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they fit snugly between the guides. The elements are fixed with self-tapping screws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of the room should be framed around the perimeter.

Insulation is laid in the frame

Attention! If you plan to place insulation in the space between the frame and the wall, you must take this into account at the calculation stage by placing the starting bar at a tedious distance from the wall.

At the second stage, vertical beams are mounted with the selected step. To provide additional rigidity of the structure, it is reinforced with racks located horizontally between them.

Laying of communications

If you plan to place sanitary pipelines and low-current wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), this must be done after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical beams, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

3. Installation of sheets

The sheets are placed on the frame, adjusted close to the wall and ceiling, fixed with self-tapping screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in the vertical and horizontal plane (alternately). The caps of the self-tapping screws are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor, subsequently sealing it with a sealant.

Attention. If the self-tapping screw does not enter the material at a right angle or is deformed, it is replaced with another, placing it at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first.

Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of plasterboard edge. Putty compound is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. The corners are processed using a reinforcing tape, bending it at the desired angle. After drying with the solution, the surface of the sheets is finished, followed by the placement of the facing material.

Today, any design ideas can be realized with the help of such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is now used everywhere: with the help of it, interior partitions are erected, window slopes are trimmed, walls are sheathed inside and out, ceilings are trimmed, and interior decorative decoration of a room is also popular. There are several ways of plasterboard wall cladding: frameless connection and the use of a support frame. The second method is most often used for wooden surfaces, and wood is chosen as the frame material.

So that the plasterboard wall cladding does not bring problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.

Features of the timber frame:

First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden blocks, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be done. Remember that moisture can be detrimental to a frame made of wood slats.
Carefully inspect the beams before purchasing: they should be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
The wood from which the slats and beams are made must comply with fire safety standards.
Before work, the tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but sodium fluoride is more commonly recommended.

We mount drywall on wooden slats: the advantages of the solution

Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as the basis for drywall structures, wood also has its own obvious advantages, which make a worthy competitor from a wooden frame to a metal counterpart!

The advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:

Material availability and low cost.
High construction speed.
Environmental friendliness.
Easy to operate.

Before you start working with wood, the slats will need to be left inside the room where the installation will be carried out for several days for acclimatization.

Wall decoration in a wooden house with plasterboard: preparation for work

In any construction business, you cannot do without special tools. To make the work run smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need to work with drywall is listed below.

Instruments:

Drill or screwdriver;
Hacksaw or jigsaw;
Roulette;
Marker or chemical pencil.

Materials:

Wooden slats and bars;
Self-tapping screws, screws;
Metal corners.

Any finishing work begins, first of all, with cleaning the work surfaces.

The first step is to remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in a word, any items that may interfere with the work process.

Before work, the walls must be covered with a special primer to avoid the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sheathe a wooden house from the inside with drywall: making a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.

We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent decay and destruction of the material.

A few tips before going to work:

The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
The width of the slats themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be borne in mind that at the joints of drywall sheets between themselves, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
It is better to fasten the rails directly to the wooden wall and to each other. Self-tapping screws are perfect for these purposes.

The assembly of the frame itself should be started by attaching solid beams along the walls and ceiling. After that, you can proceed with the installation of the rails, which will be located vertically. Next, we fix additional horizontal short jumper bars between the vertical bars. Parts of the frame can be fastened together with building corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.

When carrying out work, vertical and horizontal slats must be installed strictly according to the level!

After that, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars of the required thickness are placed in the right places. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can proceed to attaching drywall sheets to the resulting rails and beams.

Plasterboard walls in a wooden house: preparing the material

The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
Use an intermediate profile if necessary.

When leveling the walls, keep an eye on the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Processing a wall or plasterboard partitions in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the joints between the drywall sheets and the holes from the caps of the self-tapping screws should be processed.

For this we need:

Putty knife;
Special putty;
Reinforced tape or mesh;
Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring the putty.

You need to start work by preparing a putty mixture. We recommend using a special joint filler. Also find a spatula that is comfortable to work with. It should have a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

We apply the finished mixture with a spatula to the seams of the drywall, as if pressing it between them, then cut a piece of tape of the required size and glue it to the processed seam. Treat the rest of the seams and joints in the same way. To fill the hole from the self-tapping screws on the drywall, you need to apply a standing putty to the right place, smoothing it in different directions. After carrying out all the necessary processes, you can, if you wish, prepare the wall finished with plasterboard for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and capabilities.

How to sheathe walls with plasterboard with your own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you adhere to certain rules and technologies when plastering wooden walls with plasterboard, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, by installing drywall in a log house on a wooden frame with your own hands, you significantly save the family budget.