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Build house from a bar - stages of the construction of a church. Build technology from the construction bar of the walls of the house or bath technology assembly of houses from a profiled timber

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The technology of construction of brushes houses, as well as houses from the round, has a number of features related to the specifics of the building material. For example, in the project you need to take into account the decent shrinkage of the house, also much depends on whether the house from Bruusyev was assembled. Given the mass of the nuances, this issue is worth considering in more detail.

General Stages of Circuit Building

The assembly of wooden houses from the bar is only one of the stages of the construction of the house, in addition to this, the construction technology includes such steps as:

  • the structure of the foundation is not to consider this stage in detail, it is noted that there is only the fact that a tape reinforced foundation is suitable for a 2-storey house, and under single-storey buildings may be enough and a columnar, or an option with a painter;

  • next comes directly to assembling a bar from a logging, a masonry is performed on the crowns and here already performing work may differ in detail. Some prefer for greater strength and stiffness of the walls to use brazen, others use a profiled bar without brazing. More detailed this stage is considered below;

Note! The profiled solid bar usually passes the chamber drying, so ideal for the construction of the house. A small minus can be considered its cost, but the increased price is justified - after all, the buyer receives a ram with minimal humidity, which reduces the shrinkage period and the probability of cracking of the tree.

  • then the roof is built and the house is allowed to stand out. The time during which the house "sit down" is very different depending on the conditions of construction, the tree of wood, such as lumber and even the time of their billets;
  • the final internal finish of the house, the installation of windows and doors can be performed after a complete shrinkage of the house. In order to at least approximately navigate in the timing, a moisture meter can be used, the average humidity of the bar should not be higher than 20-25%.

Note! If the deadlines are pressed, the glued bar can save the situation. The assembly of the house from the glued timber does not provide for a long standing of the house, it is not necessary since the timber itself is glued out of several pre-dried boards.

Read more about building a house

Assembling houses from logs or bar is a rather painstaking job, so it's better not to hurry. The carelessness made at this stage in the future can turn into serious trouble, which will not be possible to eliminate 100%.

Walling

For additional shuttle protection to the foundation first, the bars of the lower strapping are stacked, their cross section is somewhat larger than the thickness of the future wall. And if the foundation is columnar, then the bruse grip assembly provides for the use of double bottom strapping. This is necessary due to the fact that the bars will work on bending, so you need to increase their height.

Note! Before laying the lower strapping, a layer of waterproofer is necessarily applied to the surface of the foundation (coating waterproofing can be used).

After that, you can move to laying on the crowns, until one crown is laid, it is impossible to start laying the second. If an ordinary solid bar is used for construction, then it can be recommended to use brazen after 3-4 bars with a step between them 2-3 m. Begrokes can be both wooden and metal and significantly increase the rigidity of the wall, the risk that the wall will lead when dried significantly decreases.

In principle, the assembly of a brusade house can be conducted and without additional unification of the bars in the vertical plane. This is quite acceptable when using a profiled dried timber, in this case, sufficiently selected grooves on the surface of the sawn timber.

But they are usually not neglected, they do not neglect - they do not strongly affect the final value, and there will be no increase in reliability. Moreover, quite often, preference is given to the wooden brazing, the metal for these purposes is not very suitable as condensate can be formed on their surface, and this is fraught with rotting of wood.

The type of timber is also of great importance, and rather the profile of its surface.

Options are possible:

  • german profile (comb), is distinguished by a large number of small teeth. In this case, the assembly of a profiled timber does not require laying between the insulation between them;

The use of such a method for the unification of the BRUSEV is difficult to consider appropriate in our time:

  • risk risk of brushing from the inside (due to condensate on metal);
  • the cost of such spills is high (it can cost up to 400 rubles / m), since the screeds are installed in a step of 1.5-2.0 m to a depth of 30-40 cm, then the total purchase will be not suited;
  • one of the advantages of this method some is called shrinkage adjustment, but this does not correspond to reality. The only thing that will succeed is to achieve - the bars will not lead when dried.

Among the professionals there is an opinion that the tendency to use studs for a screed has taken from those times when the assembly of the glued bar is still mastered. It was necessary to minimize bar warning in any way, and the screed solved this question. In principle, something similar is used and Finns, but there metal ties are used only on issues, this is justified.

In a completely budget version, a bar of a nails on nails is also possible, but this is not the best option, its only advantage can be considered perhaps a small value.

Overlapping device

After the construction of the walls, you can enjoy the floor of the floor of the first floor and inter-storey floors.

The instruction on the floor of the floor of the first floor will have this kind:

  • the beams will be attached to the lower strapping bru. If a double bar is used, then in the upper you can simply make cutting down a depth of 5 cm and thus rigidly fasten the ends of the ceiling beams. In the case of a single ram, you can use steel brackets to support the ends of the beams on them;

  • next to the bottom of the beams are mounted small bars to create a black floor support. They are stacked by the draft floor;
  • then follows the insulation layer, on top of it - a vapor barrier membrane;
  • only then can be laid on the overlap of the pic floor board.

The design of inter-storey floors can be simplified and do without the heat insulating layer. At the same time, the beams of overlapping can be left as an element of the interior, it will only decorate the room.

Ready-made houses from timber

If the cost does not play values, then you can order a finished log house. That is, the question of how the house is going from the bar is going to decide, the specialists will first harm him in their production, then will figure it out, they will be delivered to the construction site and gather anew. After that, you can move to the finish.

At the same time, the process itself reminds a little reminds the designer - all the details are already perfectly fitted in size and marked with numbers. So it remains only to arrange them in accordance with the project.

By the same scheme, the bath from a bar can be performed. Although, the bath is not such a large-scale structure, so you can try to build up and independently. To facilitate the work, you can use the usual dried bar and nails instead of aging to unite the bars.

Forgotten traditions of ancestors

The main mistake in the construction of wooden houses is practically ubiquitous dismissive attitude to the centuries-old experience of wooden house-building in Russia. Where did the artels of the carpenters, which were built on the century of the hut-five-rank?

There is none of them. Completely forgotten and the culture of construction of houses from a bar. What chamfer and connections on the knaps can be argued when the houses are rude from the jogbook, assembled on nails!

Analyzing the modern practice of wooden house-building, encounter with ignorance of the features of the construction of this type of houses either by any unreasonable hurry. Often, builders declare developers that there is no SNiP on wooden houses in nature. This is a mistake or conscious jewelry - there is a SNiP, and they must be observed both in design and when erecting a wooden house.

But not still lost. In this sea of \u200b\u200bnon-professionalism, small construction firms work, which sometimes to the detriment of their own profits, are trying to revive the centuries-old building of the construction of wooden houses. In this situation, a wooden house, built according to the rules of construction art and, taking into account traditions, actually becomes an exclusive product.

To determine the quality of construction of any wooden house, it is required to make it a thorough inspection. Errors associated with construction can be divided into three main types:

1. Errors in the design of the house and preparation for construction.

2. Errors in the installation process.

3. Errors during operation (in the first 2-3 years after assembly, at the first heating season and subsequent care of the structure).

When designing, manufacturing and building wooden houses, it is necessary to take into account the unevenness of wood shrinkage in various directions.

Choosing a place. When choosing a home place, it is necessary to take into account that wooden houses are classified as completely combed, therefore the distance between adjacent wooden buildings should be at least 15 m. (In practice, with strong wind, the fire of houses that are at a more remote distance from each other are not necessary. )

Marking at home and deviation from the project axes. When delivering a finished set of parts of a wooden house from a plant on a construction site, a mismatch of the size of a kit with the size of the foundation is often detected. That this does not happen, it is necessary to carefully verify the geometric dimensions of the foundations with project documentation, which seems to the manufacturer of the construction of the house.

Quality of foundations. Particularly carefully check the foundations planes to which the walls of the house will be installed. In accordance with the requirements of SNiP, the deviation from the plane over the entire foundation area should not exceed 20 mm.

Orthodox, the influx of the solution prevents the complete support of the wooden structures on the foundation. Cracks, releases of pieces of reinforcement, protruding nails, deviations from the vertical of the walls are not allowed. The inclined plane of the soles of foundations on Kosoyrats is not allowed.

Ventilation underground and waterproofing. For houses with wooden floors of floors, the insulation of the floors and the organization of effective ventilation underground through the production. Products should be arranged, at a minimum, on each side of each room - than them more, the better - the number of "dead", not ventilated zones, is reduced. Production must be located above the level of snow cover.

In the grounds of buildings, silicate and hollow brick can not be used, porous concrete blocks. To protect the wooden structures from the capillary lifting of moisture from the foundations, for any types of houses from the tree, a horizontal waterproofing device is needed. Practice shows that for these purposes it is best to use a rubberoid laid in two layers. Often, it is possible to observe as instantly, literally for several months, hydrokhotloizol is destroyed, used as waterproofing instead of an ordinary rubberoid.

Landplate. Eugene and practical element of a log house - a lining board. It not only serves as an additional horizontal waterproofing of the crowns, but will further facilitate the replacement of the lower crown of the house. As practice shows, it is best to make a lining board from larch or pine. It is possible to use for these purposes and boards from hardwood wood - aspen, birch (although it does not recommend it).

With insufficiently high-quality based on the house on a birch board or aspen, the boards of length are deformed, but this deficiency is compensated by the best additional waterproofing of the house as a whole. A successful solution is a lining board with an outer chamfer, to which the galvanized tide is fixed in the future. Maintenance of the houses throughout the plane. When installing the house from the rounded log, it is important to seek the tight support of the first (busty) crown on the lining board. Since the otlinding and profiled bar are migratory products of factory manufacture, they are supplied to objects with a lower profiled groove.

As a result, half of the walls of the wooden house relies on the ribs of the rolling log or the ribs of the profiled timber lamellas, which significantly reduces the durability of the wooden house. Wood protection. One of the main conditions for the durability of any wooden house is a thorough processing of wood protective compositions. The absence of wood treatment with protective compositions can lead not only to the development of fungi or bacteria, but also to the appearance of internal stresses, which ultimately cause deformation of the structures. The house is first collected and only then processed with protective compositions.

As a result, areas are inaccessible or hard to reach for processing. Almost always, the problem is an oval groove in houses from a rounded log, which is overlapped by the overlying crown. Control of wood moisture. In the manufacture of wooden structures, builders often neglect the control of the humidity of the blanks (logs, timber, boards and individual parts), which leads to loss of their quality. All wood products or based on it are always hygroscopic, there is an inner gradient of humidity.

Before mounting structures, you should check their geometric dimensions and discard items that have deviations from design sizes. Examination in length. When inspecting the walls of wooden houses, the so-called joints along the length are immediately striking. In the correct design of the joints on the length of the logs try to do in the subrows, that is, where they are overlapped with transverse walls, simpleness or decorative elements. In this case, the joints in length on the plane of the log wall are absent.

Often the appearance of joints in length is dictated by an unsuccessful design solution, when the length of the walls exceeds the length of the logs supplied, and they have to increase them. Just the splitting logs in length need to be guided by the requirements of the GOST (and who looks!). Additionally, when the crowns are connected along the length of the top in the joint, the P-shaped bracket is clogged so that the crowns do not diverge along the length. Sometimes they put a connecting plate .Oe pillars and jacks. This word about pillars and jacks.

For some unknown reason, the jacks are now installed everywhere at the top of the pillars. This complicates access to the jacks during operation. In the old days, when there were no metal jacks, the builders avoided the columns from the vertically installed log, and they made them from a short cross-lubrication crosswise - such pillars give shrinkage along with the house. A similar constructive solution and today should be considered the most reliable.

If still decided to apply the jacks, it is necessary to carefully approach the question of their choice, as well as during the operation of the house, monitor their condition, prevent corrosion, deformations, to regularly check the sediment at home, if necessary, weakening the tightening of the nut. It is necessary to avoid direct Contact metal structures with wood. For their mutual insulation, it is recommended to use gaskets from the frontieroid. This applies to the installation of jacks.

Word of beams. Another important question is - the word of beams in the wall. The erroneous interpretation of the concept of "in Polesev" leads to the fact that the word of beams into the walls is almost everywhere with a M-shaped subsidement.

The crack with such a word is guaranteed! In accordance with SNiP 11-25-80 "Wooden structures", the dust depth should be taken no more than 1/4 thickness in the intermediate nodes of through structures and no more than 1/3 of thickness in other cases, while the depth of wrist in the bars should be Not less than 2 cm, and in round timber - at least 3 confusion of openings. The most common occurrence in the device of window and doorways in houses from a rounded log is a rigid fastening of the casing to the walls and the absence of a necessary five percent gap in height between the box and walls. The results of such a rigid installation - sealing windows of windows, non-opening doors, intercourse of inner walls. Device roofing.

Misunderstanding builders of the specifics of structures leads to sad consequences, as a rule, to the full burden of the roof. The use of sliding supports in the device of the spelling rafters is a prerequisite for a wooden house from a rounded log or a bar. In addition to the device of the rafter system, all the elements need to additionally process long-term fire protection compositions. The most important thing is the device of the crate.

The cutture should not create obstacles to the free ventilation of the insulation throughout the plane of the underpants space. Line. For the bonding of the crowns, we do not recommend using brazening from nails and reinforcement rods. Steel brazers have an unpleasant feature: when attaching the crowns of houses vertically, the crowns are "freezed." The most correct solution is the use of wooden spacing of the square section.

Begroes should be easily clogged without significant effort. When assembling houses from a rounded log and a profiled bar of brazen play a minor role - their right choice can be decisive in the process of exploitation of the house. Trooply insulation. If there are gaps between the crowns in the house, there are always moisture in them and insects. In addition, the gaps increase the ability to enter moisture in the wood structures, which ultimately leads to uneven shrinkage of the structure.

Application as interventic insulation of mineral wool is nonsense. Lightly burns like gunpowder. The most acceptable interventory insulation in modern wooden house-building is Jute. For sealing gaps, gaps and cracks today, sealants began to be used, but we should not forget that the sealant is not a heatel.

For insulation, roofs and attic floors are recommended to use a mineral wool insulation. The use of foams is extremely undesirable due to their flammability. The thickness of any insulation on the roof and the attic must correspond to the heat engineering requirements for the respective region (in Central Russia - at least 200 mm). The errors in the construction of a wooden house lead to a significant decrease in its durability, and in particularly severe cases - to the need for its complete dismantling and Re-assembling with the replacement of most of the wooden structures.

Therefore, in conclusion, a good advice to the Developer: Before the start of construction, it is necessary to carefully consider, analyze the project, constantly monitor the installation of the house, to require the compilation of acts of acceptance of the hidden work for each construction stage, ranging from earthworks and ending with finishing. Building construction 3 (58) The 2008 from the most popular services in the construction market today is the graduation assembly. According to this technology, not only private houses, but also baths, as well as household buildings are built. They are warm and attractive in appearance. If you desire to make walls warmer you can install a ventilated facade.

But some prefer to leave the walls in a pristine form. So they look very beautiful and correspond to older traditions. If you have appropriate skills, you can build a house from a profiled bar with your own hands. However, first must be familiar with technology.

When assembling at home, it is necessary to remember his shrinkage. This is the rule especially relevant if the construction is carried out using the technology of installation of unit of natural humidity. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if the material of natural humidity is applied. Exceeded log house sitting at about 9 cm. The collection is divided into several stages.

A project is drawn up on the first, then the foundation is erected. The source is the assembly of a church. The final works are the manipulation of the roofing device. After shrinkage, external and internal works are held.

The most important first crown

The household assembly technology from the profiled timber provides for the focus of special attention to the first vents. It is one of the vulnerable places. This node will form the contour of the house.

It is closer to the surface of the Earth and in contact with the foundation, which pulls into the water from the soil. The first crown is shielded, these works provide its separation from the foundation of the waterproofing layer. In the quality of it, it is usually protruding the ruler, laid on the bitumen layer. MM Bar, just like its thickness. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled bar. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and wall material. The creation of the timber must be made from larch, which is characterized by high resistance to rotting.

The material in this case must be processed by an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling the house from the profiled bar is put on the building area, you can start working. After the construction of the foundation and laying the first crown, you can start the installation of the lower crown, which is a bar with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be coated with an antiseptic, and after drying the mixture, the layer of the jute seal is stacked from above.

Its thickness must be 5 mm. The overlap balkes must be embedded in the first crown. But it is better to put them in such a way that they relieved on the Ruralstock of the foundation. If the lower crown occurs, there will be less problems with its replacement. The first two crowns are better made of larch.

The need to process bar

Works on the assembly of houses from the profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by the processing of the material by antiseptics.

At the same time, you must take into account that after construction you will have the opportunity to process only the available parts of the walls. I can also protect the remaining surfaces to the label of the profiled timber. Do it is necessary before assembling at home. Sezheng and Tycurilla can be performed by antiseptic compositions.

Conducting insulation

After examining the instructions for assembling the house from the profiled bar, you will learn that the obligatory stage is the seal.

Ideally, it is better to use a jute, which is paired in the corner connections - the most vulnerable places. Some types of profile on the type of Finnish implies laying the jute tape along the bar, in its central part. The main function of the jute seal is the reduction of wall injection. To achieve the result, there will be a layer of 5 mm.

Use of brazen as a connection

An independent assembly of the house from the profiled timber is accompanied by the use of aggregates. They are spikes and pins for attaching structural elements. Products have an oblong shape and have a round or square cross section.

It can be based on: plastic; metal; wood. If the walls are collected from the profiled timber, it is better for the rest of the wooden brazing. So the mount is used when the humidity of the bar is more than 20%. This is done so that when drying, the material is not deformed, and cracks were not formed between the crowns. Hell will work on bending and will not allow the bending of the bar.

If you decide to use coppure as a fastener, you can use some tips that will simplify work. Therefore, you should connect no more than two bars.

Begroes are located in a checker order. The step between them should not be more than 1,500 mm. There should be approximately the same humidity as the bar. Essentials for installing fasteners are drilled vertically by 1.5 bars. The diameter of the holes may be larger than the diameter of the fastener 1 mm.

Better, if this parameter is the same. The fellow is clogged with an image and is taken into the timber. When assembling a house from a profiled timber, you must choose brazen, the length of which will be less than the length of the opening by 30 mm. This requirement is due to the compensation of shrinkage.

Build nuances: instructions for conducting work

By purchasing a ready-made kit for assembling at home, you can independently carry out its installation. Each area will be in its place, the products are done in products. Work is needed on the principle of assembling a classic log structure.

Each link is marked, and when installing it is necessary to follow the scheme. In the process, you must take into account the grooves and spikes of each detail. After stacking with the profile, each edge should match. If the grooves and spikes are not very complex, then the sealing material is laid between the links. It increases the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls. When assembling the house from the profiled timber is important to ensure a dense adjacent of the links to each other.

If this rule is not respected, the walls will rot. In the presence of products with spikes and grooves in the shape of a ridge to lay the insulation there is no need. The bars will have propilation-bowls that connect the links among themselves in a flat masonry. If there is no cup, you can cut them out using mobile cups.

Completion of construction

After shrinkage, you can proceed to rough and finishing, as well as the construction of the roof. At the same stage, entrance doors and windows are installed.

Installation of rough floor is carried out. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm, then in additional insulation and cladding they do not need. They will be great to keep warm.

Then the protective impregnation must be applied.

This will save wood in excellent condition for many years. If there is a desire, then you can acquire the composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With this mixture, it is possible to emphasize the structure of the wood and give it a saturated shade.

Features of insulation

After assembling the house from the profiled timber, you can also carry out insulation. In the process, this is usually involved:

    pacle; Plates of glass gambles; mineral wool; Lengthite canvas.

The glass gamble is paired by a foil vapor barrier layer. This will help reflect the heat inside the premises. The presence of steam isolation will reduce the evaporation of moisture that steals heat.

As thermal insulation, it is better not to use polystyrene foam, as it will exclude the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which ultimately will be the cause of its rotting. For the same reasons, insulating the walls with a rubberoid, like a pergamine, as well as a polyethylene film. It is better to use a membrane variable material.

Finally

Build a house from a profiled timber can be a fairly simple task if you order a ready-made kit. In it, all elements of the system are numbered.

You will have to carry out wall mounting, guided by the principle of the "Lego" constructor. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, then the surface of the walls from the inside can also be separated. This is usually used drywall, organic or lining.

With the roof device for such housing it is better to use professional flooring or Ondulin. Great fits metal tile. In this case, insulation begins with the attic floor. The masts are moving to the roof.

Those who own country sites or giving, always dream of building a cozy and comfortable house of wood. It should be noted that the construction of the house of the bar is rather simple and easy. All that is necessary for the construction of a house from a bar is the minimum experience with carpentry tools and a chainsaw, and, of course, a little hardworking.

Bar as building material is very convenient to use, environmentally friendly, does not leave extra construction waste. In addition, the construction technology of the house from the bar does not require any special professional skills, which, undoubtedly, facilitates both the construction process and the time for the construction of the house.

Selection of material

Of course, any construction begins first of all from the selection of the required material in order for the construction to be reliable and durable. When choosing a building material for the construction of a house, several factors must be taken into account: the quality of the material, density and reliability from various weather conditions, sound insulation, financial accessibility and durability. For all the above factors, the bar is great.

There are two types of timber: whole and profiled. A profiled bar is set to a profile that can be with spikes or with trimmed grooves. In other words, this kind of timber is already made in advance with all the necessary additions, so you only need to bring the material to the site and collect the house for details.

This type of timber has many advantages, such as convenience and simplicity to use, resistance to deformations, no need to grind and process the timber. But despite this, he also has a number of shortcomings: first, unnecessary costs for impregnation with special water resistant means; secondly, the further redevelopment or analysis of the house is impossible; Thirdly, the need for insulation in winter.

Another species is a solid timber. This type of timber does not differ from its predecessor with beauty, convenience and ease of use, but has great advantages in another: low cost in the market, the material is widespread in all places of wood selling, due to its natural humidity, the material seats and becomes dense and solid . However, as elsewhere, there are disadvantages: first, these are the costs of its processing, secondly, due to its humidity it is possible to make fungus (in connection with which it is necessary to process the material in advance), the occurrence of small cracks with sharp drops temperatures.

Houses from the profiled bar are cozy and reliable. They proved their worth many years ago. There was a lot of time, and the benefits of wooden houses are only added. Nowadays, such houses are built pretty quickly, because they are going like a children's constructor. This also contributes to the presence of special fastenings and availability of materials. In this article, we will look at how you can build a house from a profiled timber independently.

Features profiled bar

The profiled bar is a building material that is mined from coniferous trees, for example, pines, cedar, ate, larch. If you carefully look at the material, then notice that the inner side is smooth and planed, and the external one has semi-shaped, or it can also be smooth. On the sides there are special grooves and spikes that allow the timing quickly and efficiently. Ecology is considered the main advantage of the profiled bar, since it is done without the use of glue.

The material is also very warm and relatively inexpensive. These moments bribe many people. As mentioned above, the profiled bar is quite easy and quickly going, which is a good news for lovers of independent construction. But do not forget that the profiled bar is a tree on which the pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. may occur there. Therefore, it is necessary to always handle wood with special protective compositions.

The profiled bar practically does not have cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn into through. Also remember that all wooden houses do not suffer moisture. Therefore, it should be closely following the roof and not tighten with its repair. If your home is periodically exposed to cold, additional insulation should be made.

Start building a house from a bar

It is very important to make a project of the house from the profiled bar. When you make a plan, carefully and accurately do all the calculations, as it will play a very important role in the purchase of material. You can draw a project of the future home yourself, or you can contact the construction company. Before you begin to prepare for construction, it should be understood that the best time for construction is winter.

If you plan to independently engage in wood workpiece, it is better to do in the cold season and to dry for a long time at home. In this case, the bar will sit evenly and calmly. But you should not fall in extremes - in severe frosts it is better to abandon such work, since the tree can become very fragile.

With an independent workpiece, you must take into account all the factors and choose a healthy tree without cracks. After that, you need to cut the logs evenly and process them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase the ready-made material that will be cut under your requests. Also there will be carved the grooves, and you will just lay out the house from the profiled bar with your own hands, like a constructor.

Construction of the foundation for the house

Before you decide with the necessary type of foundation, study the geological conditions. To do this, find out the groundwater indicator, the composition of the soil, look at the design of the foundation of the already built houses in this area. Ribbon foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, brick or slag blocks. The process of building such foundations is quite simple, but is distinguished by a large consumption of material and labor intensity.

For wooden buildings from a bar, a columnary, pile or finely opened ribbon foundation is perfect. Let's look at the constructing scheme of a finely blurred belt basement. It all starts with markup. In this process, it is very important to adhere to accuracy. External and internal corners of the building tick the spicy. After that, you need to combine their cord for giving volume. So you will understand how the foundation should look like.

After that, you can start digging the pit, the depth of which should not exceed 60 centimeters. But it's not worth doing too small depth either, because we are building a house from the profiled bar and do not want to reduce the strength of the structure with their rampant deeds. It will be enough for two bayonet shovels. At the same time, you should not retreat from initial markup for more than 20 centimeters. After that, it is necessary to put a rubble pillow. The bottom of the trench within the framework of this procedure is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) in 10 centimeters and a layer of rubble of the same thickness.

You can make a formwork yourself or order it. Homemade formworks are made of wood, in which there are no cracks and seams. When ordering it is better to choose a steel or plastic formwork. You must set the formwork in the trench and align it in the center. To increase the strength, it makes sense to use fittings - parallel rods with jumpers. The diameter of the reinforcement should be at least 1 centimeter.

It is advisable to use the frame and at least 2 reinforcement belts. When welding, they cannot be placed closer than 3 centimeters. The bars must freely fit into the trench, but not be closer than 5 centimeters. After that, you can moisten the formwork with water and begin to the concrete fill. If you use a wooden formwork, moisten it even so that the tree does not absorb moisture from the solution. The formwork is removed immediately after drying the solution.

For insulation, it is possible to use plates of extruded polystyrene foam of 5 centimeters, and on the corners of the foundation - by 8. When the base of the foundation of the house from the profiled timber will be osselane, crushed stone falls on the place of formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The top of the foundation can be isolated by taking advantage of the rubberoid. Then it is necessary to make an inverse fall asleep for which you can use a previously seized soil.

Installation of base and floor

The construction of any house begins with the creation of a series that is placed on the treated and aligned waterproofing foundation. It should be noted that for outer walls it is necessary to use a ram with a cross section of 150 by 150 millimeters, and for sex and inner walls - 100 per 50 millimeters. When the first row is laid, it should be processed by an antiseptic, for good strengthening. After that, it is necessary to mount the lags of the floor, which are desirable to lay on the edge.

Lags can be installed on the foundation of the house and fasten on the chub walls, as shown on the video about houses from the profiled bar. They must be put in the room and leave on there for several days to get used to temperature. Two lags should be positioned on opposite walls and pull the capro-thread between them, every and a half meters. These threads will serve as a guideline on which other lags can be made. Between the lags, gaps and emptiness will be formed, which should be filled with insulation. As insulation, you can choose sawdust, foam, isolon, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene.

If you lay lags from boards with a thickness of 30 - 40 centimeters, then the distance between them should be 80 centimeters. If the thickness of the floor boards is less, the distance should be 50 - 60 centimeters, and for too thick boards - about 1 meter. With a thin plywood or wood wedges, you can adjust the height of the lag. You can wedges to strengthen using self-tapping screws or long nails. Lags are fixed with anchors or dowels. After that, you can go to the installation and strengthening boards.

From the walls, it is necessary to retreat one and a half centimeter and strengthen the first row of boards on the stretched line. For screws should drill holes. It is necessary to put the board on each lag and strengthen it. If the slots will remain between the wall and the floor, they can be covered with plinth or brackets that should be connected to the board and grind up nails. The draft floor is covered with thermal insulation on both sides. For it, boards with a cross section of 25 to 150 millimeters are suitable.

The floor can fit with mixing or without offset, judging by the photo of houses from the profiled timber. First you must put the first layer and make it laying the wooden flooring. Remember the waterproofing, which falls on the bottom of the future floor. For these purposes, a foam or dense polyethylene can be used. At the last stage, the floor should be fastened from any material. To do this, the tipped board with a thickness of 28 or 36 millimeters is perfect.

Construction of walls of profiled timber

To build the walls of the brusade house, it is necessary to post alternate ranks from the bar. Each subsequent row is bonded with a heater (pins for a vertical connection), which does not allow the bruus to shift or twisted. Begroes can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same tree from which the house was built. It is known that braided from metal are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden, and the cost of the house from the profiled timber in this case will increase.

How are made brazen? This occurs according to the method of brickwork, through two or three rows through one. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes, the diameter of which is equal to 3 - 4 centimeters. In these holes and will easily be inserted. The distance between the brackets should be one and a half meters. Between the rows of timber, do not forget to lay the seal for insulation. Where the outer walls are connected, it is desirable to apply the "Warm Corner" method.

In one bar, it is necessary to cut the protrusion of the required size, and in the other - cut out the groove with similar parameters. Some layers of timber can alternate grooves and spikes. This will strongly strengthen the structure, and the angles will not be bludging. If you build a house at one and a half years, the second walls must be raised approximately 1200-1500 millimeters, it depends on the steepness. Partitions should be included in the capital walls of the floor. For them, it is possible to use a timber with a cross section of 100 to 150 millimeters. Installation of partitions is made only after creating a log.

If the size of the house is large than 6 by 6 meters, one partition should be on the first floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of the house from the profiled bar, the inner walls can be made frame. To do this, it is necessary to create a frame of bars with a cross section of 50 to 50, to strip it with a clapboard or other material. In order for the wooden house to be fire resistant, all its details must be treated with antipiren. You can apply it to walls using a sprayer or painting brush.

And the last moment, which is worth understanding when the walls are built: pay due attention to creating window openings. In the installation places, it is necessary to cut the technological openings through which the air will move during the material drying. When the house is finally running out, you can install windows. Window blocks for the structure of the profiled timber can be metal-plastic or wooden.

Warming and finishing at home

If the thermal insulation of the wooden house will be high-quality, you can reduce the cost of its heating. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating costs, regardless of fuel. The outer finish of the house significantly increases thermal insulation, due to the decrease in the humidity of the bar. She isolates it from various atmospheric precipitation. The most popular types of finishes are lining and siding, but siding is better not to use for a wooden house.

You can use mineral wool, plates from glass gambles, passcloth or flax fabric. Plates from glass whales should be laid by a foil vapor barrier material. Such an approach will help reflect heat inside the room, and steam isolation will reduce moisture evaporation, which, as is known, steals heat.

It is worth noting that for insulation, according to the technology of houses from the profiled timber, it is better not to use polystyrene foam, since it will not allow the water moisture to evaporate completely and will cause rotting wood. For the same reasons, it is not necessary to isolate the walls with rubberoid, polyethylene film or pergamine. It is better to use vapor-permeable membrane material.

Inside, it is also desirable to separate the profiled bar, as it will give you additional thermal insulation. Interior decoration can be performed from lining, organic or drywall. Remember that insulation should resemble a puff pie. Each layer should be protected from heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold and moisture. If you are planning to spend time in the house only in summer, it can not be inspired.

Roof for home made of profiled timber

It is possible to use ondulin, professional flooring, rubberoid, metal tile to cover the roof. Remember that insulation should be started from the last or attic floor, and then move to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to establish ceiling beams, rafters and a crate. When the walls are lined up, ceiling lags should be put, which should perform for 50 centimeters to perform for the wall base. Lagges are made of timber with a cross section of 150 per 100 millimeters. They must be put on the edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.

After that, you should collect a rafter system of boards with a cross-section of 50 to 150 millimeters. This design is a skeleton of the roof, so it needs to be strongly strengthened with the help of racks, riglels and splines. The rafters should be mounted in a step of no more than one centimeter. When the frame will be ready, you can start displaying fronts, which can be made from siding or bar with a cross section of 150 to 150 millimeters. At the last stage, the cutting should be jaced the crate with a cross section of 25 to 150 millimeters.

It is worth noting that the shap shave should not be more than 400 millimeters. To prevent condensate accumulation, it is necessary to make steam insulation using the waterproofing layer. If you used slate as covering the roof, and the attic is blown away, you can refuse to build a house from a profiled timber from waterproofing.

When choosing a material for the coating, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer's tips, since for a different type of coatings, they can differ significantly. When installing it is very important to stick to the specified fasteners. Otherwise, the integrity of the roof can break. If you are strictly observed the principle of laying the selected material, you can easily build the roof of the house yourself.

Building a house from a bar is perhaps the easiest way to build a house with your own hands. For this you do not need to own special skills, and if you know how to use a chainsaw, you can easily handle this work. Collect the house will work out as a designer with whom you were played in childhood. For this, special fasteners are provided on the edges of the material. You will need another durable foundation and reliable roof! We hope that this article will help you understand the construction technology and build a reliable and beautiful house from the profiled bar!

Construction of a house from a profiled bar with their own hands is not such a difficult matter as it may seem at first glance. Of which they do not only build houses: from brick, concrete, natural stone, marble, clay, sandstone and shells, wood. Historically, it happened that in our region the most favorite building material there was a tree. Every year the selection of sawn timber in the construction market is growing. Our ancestors built their homes from a raw round log.
Today, the choice of construction wood is rather diverse: log, natural humidity wood, rounded, profiled (both natural humidity and chamber drying) and glued bar. In this article, we will tell you how to build a house from a profiled bar gradually step by step.

Beautiful 2-storey house, isolated from profiled tree. Such housing can be erected in 1-2 seasons.

What kind of wood is better to buy?

You can build a wooden house at any time of the year, but the wood is best to buy winter. Winter prepared in winter, the tree is more dense and evenly gives moisture when drying. The profiled timber is made predominantly from the trees of coniferous rocks, so the air in such a house will be saturated not only by woody aroma, but and natural antiseptics of released resins. Walls have such a natural property as "breathing." Through wood pores take up to 35% air, ventilating the room. The phased construction of the house from the profiled tree begins with the choice of building materials.

What happened wood

Ready collected kit for building.

  • profiled Bar of Natural Humidity: Length 6 m, the most common thickness of 150x100mm, 150x150mm and 200x200mm. The drying process does not stop up to the construction of this material at home. This building material will behave or not in the process of dermis, it will not be able to predict anyone, besides, cracks may appear on its surface. The period of shrinkage takes from 6 months to 3 years;
  • profiled chamber drying timber: drying occurs in special drying chambers. However, this does not mean that the past processing building material will not give a shrinkage, will give, only significantly less than the wood of natural humidity. In addition, the "delivering" in the furnace allows you to get rid of wood from fungus, insect larvae and other biological nastiness.

For more information about this type of building material, see the video lesson.

It's time to start talking about step-by-step construction of the house from the profiled bar.

Foundation

Start of construction - Fundam: The wooden house has a relatively low weight, respectively, for him it is not at all necessary to build a massive capital foundation. Based on the soil indicators, the house can be put at all on columns or piles.

This is often resorted, since in this case the construction price of the house from the profiled timber will be slightly lower due to the savings. However, most often still construct a ribbon foundation.

Attention in video:

Lower strapping

During the bottom strapping, the bar or logs on the foundation, on top of which the house is directly going. Before the binding is performed, the foundation needs to be laid waterproofing from bitumen mastic and rubberoid. A log intended for the strapping is very carefully, even in 2-3 layers, is covered with antiseptic composition.

Sometimes on top of the antiseptics of wood along the entire length, excluding ends, are also processed by working out machine oil. Oil film prevents moisture from entering the wood.

What do you need a strapping?

If you are interested in the question of how to build a house from a profiled bar with your own hands, then you probably wonder - for what is needed at all? Tree and concrete, even if the waterproofing, has different thermal conductivity, so the place of their contact is most susceptible to rotting.

Do I need to fix the strapping to the foundation? In this matter, the opinion of specialists were divided. Some consider what you need, otherwise the house can shift. Others say that it is not necessary, because of the cases of "running around" at home from their pedestrian yet. You decide.

Be sure to see the proposed video on the topic of the article.

Laying of floor lags

The material for the manufacture of lags of the floor is a profiled timber, a boat (round-spinned with two parallel sides of the log), sometimes folded in three layers of 50 mm. These are standard kits for the construction of the house from the profiled bar. Lags are stacked apart from each other at a distance of 60-80 cm, parallel to the short wall. If the lengths of the lands are not enough, it can be lengthened, then an additional support is constructed under the junction.

Lugi serve as a frame for the floor, black floors are settled on them (unedged board 15-50 mm), insulation and on top of the purple floor are used.

We continue to tell how to build a house from a profiled bar.

We put the first crowns

The first crown - it, as well as the strapping bar, need to be very carefully treated with an antiseptic (however, the machine testing is not rebuilt). By placing the first crown, do not hurry, check the coincidence of the lengths of the sides and diagonals with the help of the rope. And the level is the lack of skew.

Assembling walls

Walls are collected by the crown behind the crown to the height specified in the project. Between the bar, we do not forget to lay the ribbon insulation or the pass, the crowns between themselves are connected by molecules. Special attention should be paid to the angular compounds. From their quality depends on drafts of drafts.

Roof and ceiling

Of course, before building a house from a profiled bar with your own hands, you chose what kind of roof will cover your home. Ceiling overlap bars, as a rule, copy the location of the lag of the floor with accuracy, the boards, waterproofer, insulation, are settled. For the roof, the frame is made - rafters and a doom. The thickness of the crate depends on the material chosen to coat the roof.

All, the main works are completed, the house must pass the stage of sleeping.

Final finish of the house from the profiled timber

After the year, the house is caught, windows and doors are inserted, clean flooring is made, communications, external and interior wall decoration. By the way, the processing of the house from the pest is best to do in the first three months after the assembly (if the tree was not processed before laying). Look more on the video.

Is it possible to build a house without insulation?

Is it possible to build a house from a profiled timber without insulation?

I guess, yes. It all depends on the thickness of the tree used (for permanent residence it should be at least 180 x 200 mm), the climate in which the house is built, from which operation is planned - seasonal or constant.

How to assemble a house from a bar of 150x150? Full review of the issue. Without experience nowhere

The embodiment and implementation of the idea, how to collect a house from a bar of 150x150, may be interested in those owners of a plot or land that wants a fairly rapid pace and not attracting specialized construction teams to build not too cumbersome, as a rule, one-story building.

Whether it is a summer house or a place for permanent residence, a bath or auxiliary shopping room - attracts the opportunity to fulfill many of the works on their own.

But in order to start building a building from a bar, it is necessary to clearly imagine the plan and the volume of work, the coming to fulfillment, so that your project subsequently does not turn into another long-term due to the lack of materials or insufficiency of funds.

How to assemble a house from a bar 150x150, provided that the place for construction has already been chosen (the purchased land plot is analyzed on the bunch of groundwater, and the soil samples are taken and determined by its character)?

As a rule, everything starts with the project.

If the building is a small and one-story, its own choice (there is a lot of free information on the Internet) will save you a rather a lot of funds, as the development of projects from scratch in the relevant company costs a lot of money. Therefore, the layout is best to spend your time, not the means.

Foundation

The basis of the long life of any structure.

From how it will be, and how well it is well thought out, sometimes it depends very and very much. Usually the foundation, provided that normal soils and not too uneven areas are chosen either a bulk belt or pile concrete.

This will be quite enough to implement the conceived. A bulk plate - and costly, and does not justify material investments for such a not too heavy and massive single-storey building.

How to make a ribbon foundation with your own hands, has already been described in another article, so at this step we will not stop in detail, and it is better to move to the assembly stages.

Pros and cons

It must be said that the timber is an environmentally friendly material, so that people who care about health and nature, it is just very suitable as the chosen building material.

In addition, the bar has significant advantages over the log: the material for the construction is needed less and processed is better.

But, in minus - Its exposure to helical deformation (which is successfully fighting the use of profiled material) and poor protection of seams and compounds requiring additional processing.

Manufacturers recently dried profiled material.

This procedure helps to avoid shrinkage after construction. There is also a glued bar - the material is high-tech and geometrically stable, not affected by moisture.

Of this, although it is more expensive, and you need to try to build.

Walls

For the construction of the walls, the ram 150x150 is taken, cut on the corners of the laying. Everything should start from the lower crown. This part of the building should be paid to the most close way.

But at the beginning you need to think about waterproofing (if it did not fit during the fill of the foundation).

Before laying a bar, it is necessary to parehold with longitudinal mounting boards, which are processed by bitumen.

One of the methods of creating a log - in drapes. It uses brazen - special spikes - wooden or metal, designed to connect the bars.

Special holes are done, and in the corners, and according to length - a step is no less than the meter. The 1st crown is installed, and the fiber-insulation is placed on top. Laying the subsequent crowns continues. Begroes are usually clogged, starting from the 3rd row of timber.

Another assembly method is a connection in length.

Proper assembly technology of a bar

Length of timber - 6 meters (standard). The ends of each of the bars are cut into a certain method so that they can connect to the lock. Such a structure from the third row also need to fasten with spikes-brazers.

Indigenous spike.

On the first timber you need to drive a spike. In another - to do the groove of the desired size. The corner of the church is created when these parts are entering close. But the first crown is still preferred to collect hardwood. The entire design is also connected by copper.

Which assembly method choose is to decide directly to you, based on your preferences and features of materials for construction. And this may directly depend on personal skills and skills, if you are going to drive out the log house with your own hands.

Build roof

If the removal of walls reaches a certain design level, you can begin building the roof.

This is a rather difficult process that is difficult without preparing. The best option is a double design.

Rafters - the basis of any roof. Their mount is carried out by brackets and nails. During the construction, it should be remembered for summing up communications (for example, a gas pipe), as well as - about the arrangement of the chimney, if the furnace or fireplace is installed in the house.
Next, it is necessary to put the film for insulation from steam, to put the rails for the counterclaim, then the crate itself.

The material is selected from which the roof coating will be made and installed. For example, if you took metal tips, then our article with the appropriate name will tell the tips for its installation as a working surface of the roof.

Installation of floors

The car assembly from the bar will not cost and without the traditional installation of the floor, in which you need to show special attentiveness. Most often, the floor is made double, and the insulating layer is stacked between its parts.

For gender, the edged board is usually used, which is lowered below.

So that it does not break off in the near future, the stitches are required to lead exactly and accurately. Even for the floor will be used a cranial timber. And its attachments are made by lags. The decoration of the floor can be performed by modern coatings, and "under ancient", depending on the indoor design of the indoor design.

Ceiling

  • In a sruba from a bar, the ceiling should consist of several layers, the installation of which seems to be mandatory.
  • The liner, which is located inside and wears mostly aesthetic characteristics.
  • A layer of vapor barrier, which is located as follows and serves to protect the beams from air penetration from the inside, prevent rafted rotting.

Insulation, who will serve in order for warm air during frosts to leave the building (it is located closest to the roof).

After installing it, the implementation of the idea how to assemble a house from a bar of 150x150 may be completed, and you can start installing windows and doors, internal and external decoration built by your own hands.

Source materials profiled timber

Profiled timber usually manufactured from timber pines, spruce, fir, larch or cedar. They are less susceptible to various wood diseases than deciduous, relatively rapidly grow, have a smaller weight and density. From hardware, GOST 11047 considers only aspen and birches suitable for the manufacture of wall bars, but with restrictions on the location in Srub: in addition to the windows, subcording and bars, forming two lower crowns, t.

e. In places of the greatest falling, condensate formation. More quality products impregnated with their own natural antiseptic - resin are obtained from coniferous rocks.

Coniferous bars are divided into 1, 2, 3 and 4th grades depending on the number and types of permissible varieties of wood: cracks, slope of fibers, ringest, core, proportion, fungal and biological lesions, vigorousness, etc.

(Only the number of bitch is not normalized).

Specific requirements for wood quality, sizes and characteristics of lumber and products are given in the following standards:

Technology manufacturing profiled timber

  1. Purified from the cortex log is sharp from four sides, giving a square or rectangular shape in cross section.
  2. Then profile milling mills over the entire length dismantle several parallel recesses (width and form depends on the destination).
  3. As a result, the "groove-comb" system is obtained on two opposite sides, which are now lateral and will be combined in the wall with the profiles of the lower and upper bars.

One or both facial sides ("street" and "in the house") can be flat or semicircular, imitating a rounded log.

The ribs on the outer face side are left in the form of an acute rectangular edge or cut with a small slope. Such chamders create additional protection of the joints from water from entering the rain or snowfall, accelerate its running along the wall.

After profiling, the bar is either immediately supplied to the consumer, or is pre-passed special drying (in the drying chamber with hot steam), and in accordance with these distinguish:

  • Bar profiled natural humidity 82-87%
  • Bar profiled dry no more 18-20%

The dimensions are the same as the remaining varieties of the bar are spelled out in Standard 24454-80, ranging from 100 mm in width.

The length varies from 2 to 9 m, the most common - 6 m.

In the manufacture of wood bars with humidity exceeding 22% It is planned to be allowed to dry in width and thickness in accordance with GOST 6782.1 for coniferous wood and GOST 6782.2 - for deciduous. The higher the humidity of the bar, the longer they will sink and the longer the shrinkage of the walls will last.

Possible measures to prevent cracks when dried drying:

  • Build a house in autumn or in winter, then cracks will appear less often, and look smaller;
  • When choosing a bar, give preference to the cross section of a rectangular shape - in this case only the wide side is cracking, on the "square" crack of the crack can go on any side;
  • In advance, a small compensatory cutline on a bar will make it easier to exit inner tension.

Characteristics of profiled bar

Strength Pines / Fir 420, 375 or 280 kgf / cm²

For a particular type of wood products and structures, several values \u200b\u200bare determined depending on the type of load.

Main:

  • on bending - when loading the edge, and then plastic;
  • on compression along the fibers;
  • stretching and spanning along the fibers.

First of all, the strength of a certain breed is affected. For example, the resistance of bending is given here when loading plastic for pine and spruce lumber 1, 2 and 3rd grade, respectively (SNiP II-25-80).

Thermal conductivity 0.1-0.36 W / (M · ° С) The value decreases with the thickening of the bar and rises with increasing wood humidity.
Violation of geometry

Profiling increases the reliability of the bars of bars, makes the walls not blown and protected from the penetration of precipitation.

Yet, a year and a half, a shrinkage of the structure occurs - the bars lose moisture (even dry glued), decreasing in size.

In addition, the process occurs on the body of the bar unevenly, which is explained by the unequal density in different parts of the log (comula, vertices, knocked places). The result is manifested in the form of bending, twisting around its axis.

The profile becomes a disadvantage, because it does not allow to cross the resulting defects.

In order to initially minimize their appearance, it is necessary to press the wall as stronger as possible, for which the upper crown is assembled from the greatest bars. The ideal option will be building an attic floor, since the weight of a simple attic room is not enough for sufficient loading.

Size exposure Since wood is a material of natural origin, its homogeneity depends on the conditions of growing and developing wood, on the degree of impact on it during this period of microorganisms and insects.

Therefore, almost inevitable the presence of certain defects - sections of wood, on which uniformity is broken. Their number, permissible species are normalized by standards for each variety separately.

The higher the homogeneity of the wood, the more durable and thermally resistant will be the product. Save its operational qualities at the proper level, to extend the service life is called by antisepting means.

Shrinkage up to 8%
  • Natural Humidity Bar 4-8
  • Bar dry 1.5-2
Fire resistance Group G (combustible materials) Commitable impregnation with flame retardant compositions and / or paints.
Cost Planed profiled bar of natural humidity from 7000 rub. / m³

If the ends are not made under the angular connection, the timber is considered to be a handy and its price is about 40% below the bar with bowls (are made under a specific project, t.

e. When purchasing a manufacturer of a kit, fully ready for assembling at home).

Also, the price increases with a thickness of the bar. For example, if a product with a section of a section of 150 mm costs 7000 rubles.

per cube, then the following will cost: 200 mm - 7400, 250 mm - 9300.

These values \u200b\u200bare given for pine and fir wood, but the timber from the Siberian larch and the Altai cedar will cost 14,500 rubles. - Molding and from 18500 - with bowls (wall set).

The cost of the planed drum dry from 7900 rubles / m³

Dignity

  • The complex profile and its high-precision performance ensures a dense fit of the bars and almost monolithic design;
  • The assembly of the walls is easier and faster than from an unseasophilated timber;
  • The air and vapor permeability of the house from a solid bar is better than houses from glued;
  • Although glue, which is necessarily used in the production of glued timber, is responsible for sanitary standards, nevertheless it is an artificial material, and a natural whole tree looks preferable in terms of environmental purity;
  • Due to the low thermal conductivity of wood, heating costs are reduced, low weight load - load on the foundation;
  • The characteristic feature of the profiled bar (especially dry) is the exceptional smoothness achieved by the purity of processing on high-tech equipment, so you can do without additional wall decoration;
  • Profiled dry bar 2-2,5 The times cheaper than glued, but at the same time very close to it according to its technical characteristics: thermal insulation, shrinkage, speed and technology of construction of the house, aestheticness, etc.

Disadvantages of profiled bar

  • Less durable and solid than glued;
  • As with the usual timber (simple section), due to drying, temperature drops are formed cracks, deformation may occur (primarily it concerns the profiled case of natural humidity, the bar dry cracks much less frequently);
  • Despite the low thermal conductivity of wood, if the timber is less than 220 mm thick, wall insulation may be required.

Transportation

When ordering a household complex from a profiled timber delivery to the construction site becomes, in fact, one of (no less important) stages of the production process: the slightest damage will subsequently lead to a violation of the integrity of the wall.

Therefore, from the quality of loading and unloading, compliance with the rules for packing and placing transport packets on the cargo platform depends on the preservation of each element, and then accuracy, the effectiveness of the build of the future at home.

For greater reliability, the bars are placed on pallets, wrapped with a film and packaging tape (GOST 19041-85).

Heavy packages are better to carry on vehicles equipped with manipulators to eliminate drops, blows and other dangerous situations during unloading.

Alexander Kiyaevdat: 2013-05-05

Questions and answers on the topic

On the material is not yet asked any question, you have the opportunity to do it first.

House made of profiled timber - beautiful without decoration

Houses from the profiled bar are one of the most common types of wooden housing. Features of the building material report them a lot of advantages that are manifested both when building and for accommodation.

MATERIAL
The profiled bar is a wooden timber (most often of the coniferous wood), processed from four sides on a special machine.

When assembling at home, the bars are connected by the groove-comb system. The profiled timber has a smooth surface that does not require additional finishes.

In addition, it is highly durable than an ordinary bar, since it is made only from the middle part of the trunk. Material has a low thermal conductivity (0.18-0.35 W / m3). Houses of it have numerous advantages.

Dignity
- The house from the profiled bar has the ease and speed of assembly. This is due to the fact that the materials needed to build a log cabin are supplied by sets in which the bar includes, already unfolded on a specific project and equipped with connecting locks and holes under bent.

- The connection of the bar does not allow water to fly inside the walls, and this, in turn, prevents rotting.
- Since the production of a profiled bar is removed from it with voltage from all four sides, then in the walls of the house there is much less cracks than in the houses from the log.

- In the manufacture of a profiled timber, only natural raw materials are used, so the houses are among it to the category of environmentally friendly housing.
- Processing on machines gives the surface of a profiled bar smoothness and an attractive appearance, thanks to which the house will not need an external finish.

And this leads to direct savings on construction.
- Low thermal conductivity and a dense connection of bars with each other provide high energy-saving indices of the house. It quickly warms and keeps warm for a long time. In addition, to ensure heat in the house, the profiled timber will be needed less than the rounded log.

For example, a profiled timber cross section 140x140 mm by heat insulation is equivalent to a log with a diameter of 240 mm, 190x190 mm - 320 mm and 240x190 mm - 420 mm.

To achieve the same thermal insulation, the profiled timber is required up to 40% less both in the amount and cost than a rounded log, and it is almost two times cheaper than the glued timber.
- The house from the profiled bar, unlike the house of the rounded log, does not require cavity after the shrinkage, which leads to the cost savings both on the material and at work.
- Unlike structures from glued timber, a natural air exchange is constantly in homes from a profiled bar due to the fact that the inner structure of the wood is not broken.

Even with closed windows in the house there are always fresh air. And this means that you do not have to additionally 22 buy air conditioning. The house itself supports optimal humidity, oxygen balance and distributes heat, creating comfortable conditions for life.
- The durability of the bar and the reliability of the compounds ensures the stability of the structure.

LIMITATIONS
- If the construction is conducted from a natural moisture bar, then a shrinkage of construction is performed. Therefore, it is necessary to either give the house to stand one season before installing windows and doors, or leave the so-called technological gaps. Avoid this is possible when using a dry profiled timber (15-18% humidity).

o Despite fire treatment, the tree still remains flammable materials, so it is possible to fire at home.
- It is possible damage to the walls with rodents and insects.

Price for materials and work when assembling a house from a profiled timber

Construction process
The first stage from which the construction of the house begins is design.

Since each manufacturer has its own details, it is advisable to consider them already at the design stage. Therefore, Ideal if the design is produced in the same company that will build a house. Design costs 180 rubles / m2. The construction of the foundation of the house from the profiled bar is as a rule, on a ribbon foundation. If the humidity of the soil is such that the construction of a concrete base is impossible, screw piles are used as a foundation.

Also piles can use if the house stands on the slope.

Build Srub
The crowns are fasten with each other with the help of coppins in a checker order. To ensure the best heat-saving properties of the house in our region, it is recommended to use a timing segment 200 × 200 mm. The insulation is stacked between the crowns. In the window and doorways are leaving.

In order to avoid damage to the design during shrinkage, the retaining poles are supplied with jacks.

Roof and everything else
After the log is ready, the rafter system, beam overlapping and roofing. If the structure is complex and there is a risk of damage during shrinkage, make a temporary roof. After that, it is recommended to interrupt construction for one season so that the bar is dry.

At the second stage, windows and doors are installed, engineering communications are carried out and process wood to protect against sun, moisture and insects. Starting heating is desirable to produce smoothly to avoid the occurrence of stresses in the tree.

Bar in profile

The profiled timber thanks to the clear size and form of the profile allows you to save on the interventional insulation, internal and external trim.

Compounds grooves between bars prevent rainwater from getting inside the wall.

One of the most common materials in wooden construction is a profiled timber.

In the production process of bruschers, a clear size and strictly defined standard form are attached.

MATERIAL
The profiled timber produces most often made of coniferous wood (pine, cedar, fir, larch).

The profiled timber is made only from the kernel (located in the middle of the barrel) of wood, since it has a stronger structure. This is due to the fact that in the middle of the trunk there is practically no sloping, as well as the concentration of resin (in coniferous trees) or tanning substances (in deciduous trees). Coniferous trunks have fewer bumps, as well as less susceptible to rotting and are easier to handle.

The most popular material is pine, since it has an optimal value for money. Trees growing in colder areas have better quality for construction: their wood is less wet and more dense.

PRODUCTION TECHNOLOGY
The profiled timber produces from the edged with humidity no more than 22%.

Before profiling, the material is withstanding 3-5 months in a warehouse of natural drying or in a drying chamber. The minimum segment of the bar is 250 × 240 mm. Using a set of cutters, the workpiece gives the necessary shape, thumps and remove the champions from the corners. Then, for the entire length of the bar, spikes and grooves (profile) of a certain form are cut. Works are manufactured using high-precision automated equipment.

Dimensions
The material is produced by a cross section of 95 × 95 mm, 95 × 45 mm, 145 × 145 mm, 145 × 195 mm, 195 × 195 mm.

Length - 6 thousand mm. For the construction of external walls of the house or bath, a cross section of at least 145 × 145 mm is used, the smaller bar is on the inner partitions.

Advantages:
- Ecology.

All stages assembly

In the manufacture of chemicals are not used. Antipirens and biocides with which the timber is impregnated to protect against fire and biopration are harmful to humans only at the time of processing. After drying, they do not have an impact on people and animals;
- low thermal conductivity (0.18-0.35 W / m3) at a low density (500 kg / m3).

Compared to other building materials, the profiled timber has low weight, but has better thermal insulation properties (see table). Due to the low thermal conductivity coefficient, the house from the profiled timber is quickly heated and the heat stores a long time;
- Optimal price / quality ratio. The profiled bar is cheaper than glued, but more expensive than edged (due to more labor-intensive production).

If you compare the wall of the profiled timber and from the rounded log, then with equal thermal conductivity indicators for the first
- aesthetic appearance.

Due to the fact that the material is additionally processed on the machine, the walls do not require an external or internal finish. Therefore, houses from the profiled timber are often built in places with low average temperatures and with high humidity: in such a house you can come in the cold season and quickly warm it up to a comfortable temperature;
- Ability to "breathe".

The walls of the profiled bar provide the natural circulation of air and its comfortable humidity, which favorably affects the well-being of residents;
- A strong compound, protecting the walls from rainwater from entering between bars, which, in turn, prevents rotting.

Disadvantages:
- flammable (needed processing with flame retardant means);
- exposure to adverse effects of atmospheric phenomena;
- exposure to biological damage (required by bioprotective agents);
- can produce cracks when shrinking design (if the bar is pre-dried at least up to 20%);
- additional insulation of walls from the outdoor is required;
- After building a house or a bath from a profiled bar, it is impossible to redecessing or add-on.

more on the topic:
What is the wooden house from?

Bar.
Massive wood houses
Wooden houses from Bruusyev against frame-shield

How to make a profiled broom yourself yourself?

Annually an assortment on the market of lumber is increasingly expanding. Building materials suitable for the construction of wooden houses are becoming increasingly perfect and modern.

How to work with a conventional bar, which from the very beginning did not undertone profiling? Especially considering how quickly it is displaced by more modern counterparts, such as glued or profiled timber and other.

The most common trigger is the most common edged timber. And the profiling of the bar today is possible to fulfill even with your own hands.

Profiled bar

Distinctive features

Profiled bar - It is a building material made of coniferous wood and having concrete sizes.

As a rule, pine, spruce or cedar is taken as the basis for a bar. If you consider the timing more carefully, you can see that its inner side is stringent very smoothly, and the outer has a semi-shape.

It happens that all sides of the bar are smooth.

Unlike the usual, profiled timber has a grooves on the sides that allow you to poison the bars one with another. This is done for better fastening bars among themselves. An important advantage of a profiled timber is its environmental friendliness, because it does not use glue.

In addition, the profiled timber is attractive for a massive buyer with its price and the ability to keep heat, as well as ease and convenience of assembly, which is certainly an important factor for those involved in construction on their own.

With all the positive qualities of the profiled timber, as well as from any other building material of wood origin, pores may remain on it.

Because of this, the mold or fungus may be formulated on it. To avoid this, wood needs to be treated with special protective compositions.

When using wood as a building material the likelihood of cracksWhat does it talk about his bad quality.

By time, these defects may become more noticeable, and they have to carry out constant control for the appearance of through slots. On the profile bar, the probability of cracking is striving for zero.

Independent profiling of the bar is possible to implement in several ways.

This can significantly save your finances and get high-quality competitive building material. Some believe that it is impossible to do it. However, the practice shows that if there is a desire, time, patience and the appropriate experience, there is nothing impossible.

Pros of profiled timber made with their own hands

Of course, buying ready-made building material is much easier and faster, but the independent manufacture of building materials in the form of a profiled bar has not yet lost its relevance.

Self-made profiled timber allows you to save tens of thousand rubles. But requires high time spending.
2. Making the timber with its own forces, you can give it any geometric shape, which will allow it to further produce it more tight styling, and this in turn will ensure the absence of drafts.

In addition, proceeding to the production of timber, for its quality you will answer only you, and therefore, in it you will be 100% sure.
3. The finished walls from the profiled bar do not require subsequent finishes. Therefore, such laying of the building material is important, which will hide the insulation. Making construction material yourself, you can envisage this important point.
4.

With your own hands, you can provide a higher quality of connecting grooves, which will affect the density of the adjoining of the bars to each other.

What type of profile to stop your choice?

When choosing the most suitable profile for you, you must first give an adequate assessment to your experience in the field of building materials.

At first glance, it may seem that there is nothing complicated in the production of timber. However, some efforts still have to attach, spending a lot of time.

The easiest way to keep your choice on the profile of the most simple designs. It will not be necessary to use any specialized tool, it will not be necessary to make complex calculations.

Based on existing standards developed for the main compounds of wooden parts, profiled bars are manufactured.

The calculation algorithm can be found in the available documents. It is possible to manufacture a profile of two types:

- profiling through the bar;
- Profiling through triangles.

Before proceeding to making a profile, it is necessary to calculate its dimensions.

The calculation is necessary for each section. The calculation algorithm can be taken from the existing GOST. When laying a bar from this category, it is necessary to use a heater, a thickness of at least five centimeters.

Production of a profiled timber on their own

In the manufacture of a profiled timber can be used in various ways.

The easiest will work with a manual milling capacity of at least one and a half kilowatt. Working with a tool must apply special nozzles.
With a simple profile, a milling mill is used with a diameter of ten centimeters. With a complex form of profile, nozzles can be different.

How to build a house from a profiled timber

With such a tool you can independently make a timber of any complexity even with a D-shaped side. But in this case, do not do without a grinding machine and a special electrical ruble.

The most important thing when working exactly follow the calculations, because by itself the term "profiling" implies the perfect purity and accuracy of the sizes.

The advantages of this method is:

- accurate end result, provided that a qualitatively performed workpiece is achieved due to the accuracy of the milling;
- With a good sharpening of the milling nozzle, it will not be necessary to complete grinding.
In addition to obvious advantages, this method has its drawbacks:
- high cost of the milling machine;
- The complexity of the selection of suitable nozzles, because they are not released for all machines.

For which you can use a circular saw

Another method for profiling timber is carried out using sweater tools.

One such primary means is circular saw.

Its cost will be about five thousand rubles. And choose the appropriate tool worth focusing on the manufacturer's brand.

An important aspect when choosing a saw should be able to make it possible to propose different depths with it.

The advantages of this method is:
- the ability to control the dimensional accuracy;
- The final result in the form of perfectly straight and smooth grooves.
The negative parties to work with the circular saw are:
- Shallow depth of the cut;
- no possibility of cleansing the groove;
- the need to change the tool settings after each operation generated;
- Low speed performance.

It is most convenient to work with a circular in the manufacture of a triangular groove.
It is allowed to use both tools in the work.

So, for example, to dry up a quarterly quarter, you can first apply a circular saw, and then refine the roundings with the milling machine. The remaining waste is better not to dispose immediately, because they may be needed to connect bars among themselves.

Features of glued bar

This type of BRUSEV is popular in the construction of private houses.

With its manufacture, modern technologies are applied. Separate boards are cut from coniferous wood, which are also called "Lamanes". Then these boards are plastered to perfect smoothness, and then glue with a special composition.

The finished billet is put under a powerful press. The big advantage of the glued timber is considered to be its length, which can reach 18 m.

By its strength, the profiled timber is inferior to glued, since with its manufacture, the most durable outer part of the tree is removed. While the additional strength of the glued timber is achieved by pressing and gluing. Thanks to these manipulations, the glued bar is practically not deformed over time.
Although the price of the glued bar exceeds the cost of its competitor almost twice, which is associated with the peculiarity of the manufacture of BRUSEV.

After buying a land plot there is a desire to build a house on it. Often, due to limited budget, it remains only desire. We will look at the independent construction of a small house without resorting to the help of specialists.

It will help to save greatly and make your plans.

Building a house we will be from an unsecined bar of 150x150 mm. This is a long-standing technology that has been widely popular in the 70-80 years of the last century, with which inexperienced builders will easily cope.

So, from this article you will learn how to build a house from a bar do it yourself, You will see a specific project of a brusade house with a size of 6x4 m, learn how to lay and choose the foundation, build walls and roof.

House project

Any construction begins with the project.

As we have already written, this project is a house of 6 x 4 with an attic floor. As a base, a column foundation is selected. As can be seen in the photo above, the house will be covered with Falchbus. Metal tile chosen as a roof.

Immediately, let's say that this house is not insulated and serves as a cottage. If you go to build a house from a bar for permanent residence, then you need to make a thorough insulation of the floor, roofs, walls.

On our site there is an article in which the calculation of the thickness of the insulation for the walls is made. (Link)

Below is a project of the house that you see in the photo.

Foundation

We wrote about different types of foundations repeatedly in the category "Fundam".

We also told that for light buildings from the bar, the first base is best suited, because it is the least costly and least time consuming. As a base, a column foundation considered in the article "Reference) was chosen for this house from the bar.

You can also make other types of foundations, such as tape, pile, screw, fine-breed, slab, but they are all much more expensive.

As can be seen in the diagram, for the construction of the box of this wooden house you need to lay 15 pillars.

For the porch you need another 2 post.

We will not describe all the nuances of such a foundation in detail in this article.

Lower strapping

Immediately after the construction of the foundation, you can proceed to install the bottom strapping. This is one of the stages on which many make mistakes.

Since the house is built from a bar, then there are subtleties in the bottom strapping device. To begin with, look at the timber laying scheme.

Now consider some points associated with this stage. Looking a bar in one row just below in the chapter of the "Walls of the House".

  • Before laying the first bars on the posts, you need to put two layers of rubberoid, thereby making waterproofing wood, which will protect the lower crowns from wetting and rotting.
  • All elements of the lower strapping are necessarily processed by antiseptics as this part is most exposed to the action of moisture rising from the surface of the Earth.
  • Pay attention to the boards, nailed from the inside to the strapping bruus.

    The size of this board is 150 x 50 mm. They serve as a protrusion on which they will lie in the following floorboard.

  • Internal partitions are made of 100 mm wide timber, but you can use 150 mm

Walls at home

As we have already mentioned, the outer walls of the house are built from an unpainted timber section 150x150 mm.

A gasket is located in the form of a heat insulating material. As such material use felt or more modern interventic insulation of the flanutin.

For the convenience of mounting, when laying a liner tape, it is shot using a construction stapler. Ribbon take a little less than the width of the bar himself.

In order for water during the rain, the interventic seams, from the top rib of the facial part of the bar, are removed.

Now consider the connection of the bar with each other.

The bar must be combined between themselves not only in one row, but also in height.

Connection in one row

During the construction of this house several connections were used. To do this, we use chainsaw and the chisel. In more detail, this topic is dismantled in the article "Methods for connecting timber"

Connection of the ranks

To fasten the crowns in height takes round wooden braided with a diameter of 20-30 mm.

Consider this connection in more detail.

Begroes have long been used in wooden construction. You probably heard about houses built without a single nail.

House from the profiled bar do it yourself

In our case there are also wooden anticipated by a cross section of 20-30 mm. Their length should be greater than the height of the bar. The maximum length is not limited and depends on how long the drill you have.

Begotes best to buy in the construction market. Making them with your own hands is quite difficult and long.

Main steps

You made the strapping and it's time to erect the walls.

  • A flank tape over the entire perimeter rolls on the lower strapping and is fixed with a stapler.
  • Duties are made in the next bar and the row is made.
  • After that, you need to fix two rows of each other with copper.

    For this, the bore make the hole and score from the bell. If you are more long, you can first lay three and more rows, and then drill everything together.

  • The height of the brazen should be multiple of the height of the bar. In our case, it can be 15 cm, 30 cm, 45 cm, etc.

Important. The holes in the timber must be slightly wider than the diameter of the brazen. The height of the opening is also made more for a couple of centimeters.

This is necessary in order for at the inevitable shrinkage at home, individual bars did not hang on the impudent.

What is such a multiplicity?

The thing is that for a reliable connection it is necessary that the bells are at the junction of the crowns in the middle. In addition, if the bells will stick out of the upper crown, then for the installation of the next row will have to do holes in a bar in advance, which is not always convenient.

In which places to connect the walls at home by brazen?

  • The walls of the timber are connected by brakes every 1-1.5 m.
  • There must be a connection in the corners and in places of the walls of the walls.
  • Next to the window and doorways at a distance of 15 cm should also be installed.

Sling roof system

There are various options for the rafter system.

We will look at the easiest and clear, in our opinion the option and give a brief instruction. In more detail, all the nuances of the construction of the roof, including the solo system, see the section of the same name.

Everything needs to be done in order indicated below.

1. We lay seven boards with a length of 6 m and a cross section of 150 x 50 mm on the end at equal distances and secure them with the help of self-sufficiency or nails to the walls

We make temporary flooring from boards to facilitate further work

3. Construct auxiliary design and set the skunk run. It greatly facilitates the task of laying rafters.

4. Install rafters in the amount of 7 pieces on each side. To do this, we use the boards with a length of 4.5 m with a cross section of 150 x 50 mm.

The lower part of the rafter is fastened to the wall and the boards that we put in the first paragraph. These boards serve not only by the basis for the floor of the second floor, they are also tightened for rafters, which gives the whole design with greater rigidity.

How to mount rafters to Mauerlat read in the article (link).

6. The upper part of the rafter system lying on the skate connect, as shown in the diagram

Make the crate for the next roof. What a doomer will be solid, with intervals, from which material it is highly dependent on the type of roof. Various options for roofing can be found in the "Roof" heading on our website.

In this project, the lamp was made from the Unedged Board with a thickness of 25 mm in increments of about 5 cm

8. Construct the frame for the further covering of the fronton, not forgetting where the windows will be located

We make styling metal tile and remove the auxiliary design made in the 3rd paragraph.

Floors

Since this house from the bar was built for summer accommodation, the floors and the roof are not insulated in it. In this project for the floor of the first and second attic floor, a tipped board with a thickness of 45 mm was used, which was laid down at home.

If you come to insulate the floors, then how to make it with your own hands can be found in the article "Link).

Wait for the continuation of this article in which we look at how to install windows and doors in a wooden house and a solving system.

We hope this article was helpful to you and you build your own first house from Bruus.

One of the most popular services in the construction market today is to build a log. According to this technology, not only private houses, but also baths, as well as household buildings are built. They are warm and attractive in appearance.

If you wish to make walls warmer you can install a ventilated facade. But some prefer to leave the walls in primeval form. So they look very beautiful and correspond to older traditions. If you have appropriate skills, you can build a house from a profiled bar with your own hands. However, first must be familiar with technology.

Main steps

When assembling at home, you must remember his shrinkage. This rule is especially relevant if the construction is carried out using the technology of installation of the units of natural humidity. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if the material of natural humidity is applied. Exceeded logs sitting at about 9 cm.

The assembly is divided into several stages. The first includes a project, then the foundation is erected. The main stage is the grazing assembly. The final works are the manipulation of the roofing device. After shrinkage, external and internal works are held.

The most important first crown

The assembly technology of the house from the profiled bar provides for the focus of special attention to the first crown. It is one of the vulnerable places. This node will form the contour of the house. It is closer to the surface of the Earth and contacts the foundation that pulls into the water from the soil.

The first crown is shielded, these works involve its separation from the foundation of the waterproofing layer. As it, it is usually protruding the runner, stacked on a layer of bituminous mastic. From above there is a lining 100-mm bar, just that its thickness is. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled bar. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and wall material.

The lining bar should be made from larch, which is characterized by high resistance to rotting. The material in this case must be processed by an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling the house from the profiled bar is put on the building area, you can start work. After the construction of the foundation and laying the first crown, you can start mounting the lower crown, which is a bar with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be coated with an antiseptic, and after drying the mixture, the layer of the jute seal is stacked from above. Its thickness should be 5 mm.

Overlapping beams must be embedded in the first crown. But it is better to put them in such a way that they relieved on Ruralshard foundation. If the lower crown occurs, there will be less problems with its replacement. The first two crowns are better made of larch.

The need to process bar

Works on the assembly of houses from the profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by the processing of the material by antiseptics. At the same time, you must take into account that after construction you will have the opportunity to process only the available parts of the walls.

Before laying a profiled timber, it is necessary to protect the remaining surfaces. Do it is necessary before assembling at home. Sezheng and Tycurilla can be performed by antiseptic compositions.

Conducting insulation

After examining the instructions for assembling the house from the profiled bar, you will learn that the obligatory stage is the seal. Ideally, it is better to use jute, which is paved in the corner connections - the most vulnerable places. Some types of profile on the type of Finnish imply laying the junteen tape along the bar in its central part. The main function of the jute seal is the reduction of wall injection. To achieve the result, there will be a layer of 5 mm.

Use of brazen as a connection

An independent assembly of the house from the profiled timber is accompanied by the use of brazing. They are spikes and pins for attaching structural elements. Products have an oblong shape and have a round or square cross section. The basis may be:

  • plastic;
  • metal;
  • wood.

If the walls are harvested from a profiled bar, then the rest are suitable wooden brazed. This mount is used when the humidity of the bar is greater than 20%. This is done so that when drying, the material is not deformed, and cracks were not formed between the crowns. Hell will work on bending and will not allow the bending of the bar.

If you decided to use brazenly as fasteners, you can use some tips that will simplify work. Between themselves should be connected no more than two bars. Begroes are located in a checker order. The step between them should not be more than 1,500 mm.

Begroes should have about the same humidity as a bar. Holes for installing fasteners are drilled vertically by 1.5 bars. The diameter of the holes may be larger than the diameter of the fasteners per 1 mm. Better if this parameter is the same. The heater is clogged with a blue and bleed into the bar. When assembling a house from a profiled timber, you must choose brazen, the length of which will be less than the length of the opening by 30 mm. This requirement is due to the compensation of shrinkage.

Build nuances: instructions for conducting work

By purchasing a ready-made kit for assembling at home, you can independently carry out its installation. Each link will be in its place, the products are performed in products. Work is needed on the principle of assembling a classic log structure. Each link is marked, and when installing it is necessary to follow the scheme.

In the process, you must take into account the grooves and spikes of every detail. When laying with a profile, each edge should match. If the grooves and spikes are not very complex, then the sealing material is laid between the links. This increases the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls.

When assembling the house from the profiled timber, it is important to ensure a dense adjacent of the links to each other. If this rule is not respected, the walls will rot. In the presence of products with spikes and grooves in the shape of a comb, lay the insulation there is no need. The bars will have propilation-bowls that connect the links among themselves in a flat masonry. If there is no cup, you can cut them out using mobile cups.

Completion of construction

After shrinkage, you can proceed to rough and finishing, as well as the construction of the roof. At the same stage, entrance doors and windows are installed. Installation of rough floor is carried out. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm, then in additional insulation and cladding they do not need. They will be great to keep warm.

Then the protective impregnation must be applied. This will save wood in excellent condition for many years. If there is a desire, then you can acquire the composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With this mixture, it is possible to emphasize the structure of the wood and give it a saturated shade.

Features of insulation

After assembling the house from the profiled timber, you can also carry out insulation. In the process, this is usually involved:

  • tow;
  • plates of glass gambles;
  • mineral wool;
  • lengthite canvas.

The glass gamble is paired by a foil vapor barrier layer. This will help reflect the heat inside the premises. The presence of steam isolation will reduce the evaporation of moisture that steals heat.

As thermal insulation, it is better not to use polystyrene foam, as it will exclude the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which ultimately will be the cause of its rotting. For the same reasons, insulating the walls with a rubberoid, like a pergamine, as well as a polyethylene film. It is better to use a membrane variable material.

Finally

Build a house from a profiled timber can be a fairly simple task if you order a ready-made kit. In it, all elements of the system are numbered. You will have to carry out wall mounting, guided by the principle of the "Lego" constructor. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, then the surface of the walls from the inside can also be separated. This is usually used drywall, organic or lining.

With the roof device for such housing it is better to use professional flooring or Ondulin. Great fits metal tile. Insuction in this case begins with an attic floor. The wizards are then moving to the roof.

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