Insulation of the roof of a wooden house from the outside. Four ways to insulate the roof of a wooden house. How to insulate a roof with a residential attic

Consider how to insulate the roof of a wooden house in the case of a popular pitched roof type.

Load

During operation, the following negative factors affect the roof:

• sudden changes in temperature;
• precipitation;
• physical activity from the wind.

It is correct to carry out thermal insulation after the shrinkage of the log house - usually this period takes about six months, as a result of which construction defects may appear: cracks, distortions, which must be eliminated.

Correct insulation of the roof of a wooden house is based on the basic principle - you cannot save money, because only a structure made of high-quality materials can cope well with the same wind.

Requirements

Basic requirements for heat-saving materials:

• ease of installation;
• good thermal insulation properties;
• the possibility of insulating various roofing systems;
• long service life;
• fire resistance;
• acceptable price.

Specially designed materials such as glass wool and mineral wool are best suited for these parameters. In retail and wholesale networks, they can be purchased in rolls, in mats, which, if necessary, can be easily adjusted correctly to the dimensions of the gap between the rafters.

The material can be cut, cut. It is suitable for a long period of use: it does not absorb moisture, has a sufficient level of sound insulation, and - unlike foam plastic - withstands the heat well in summer.

Principle of operation

The principle of insulation is based on the use of attic spaces: if the owner does not make the attic, then it is not necessary to carry out a full-fledged insulation of the entire system - it is enough to properly insulate the floors (then air from the lower floors will not penetrate upstairs, and cold will not leak from the attic). In the case of residential attic rooms, one cannot do without insulation materials. The total number of certain products is directly related to the selected scheme.

Preparation

First, it is necessary to study the current state of the system by examining all the constituent structures, paying attention to the rafter elements. It is imperative to eliminate all damage, fungus, rot, damp parts, and if significant damage is detected, the rafters generally need to be replaced or repaired.

You will need a comprehensive treatment of the entire wooden surface with antiseptic substances. If there are some communications in the roof area, then they must be checked too: many forget to do this, mainly working with rafters, as a result of which water later appears in the insulation system.

Complex isolation

This method of insulation for a finished building is considered in the context of the absence of the need to dismantle the coating. The creation of an insulation system is very similar to the arrangement of a ventilation facade. This simple option does not require large financial expenses.

So, special attention should be paid to the layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier. The first layer is waterproofing. Sometimes it is present, since it was originally part of the roof structure. If it is not there, then you need to lay a hydro-barrier type film between the rafters and the roof: it perfectly retains moisture and allows steam to pass through. The rafter components are completely covered with a film, reinforcing it with a construction stapler.

After waterproofing, the insulation material is laid directly. As a material, you should pay attention to mineral wool, which can be in the form of rolls and slabs with a minimum thickness of 10 cm. It is important that the interlayer does not exceed the thickness of the rafters.

Laying the material between the rafters should be tight, without gaps. Additional fastening to the insulation will be given by a stretched cord made of nylon or wooden slats, which are nailed perpendicular to the rafters.

Vapor barrier

Steam insulation follows the insulation: a vapor barrier film should be used as a material. It fits on top of the heat-shielding layer, and is also strengthened along the rafters. If an attic is built from the attic, then it will be right to take care of the decorative finish of the insulated roof.

The finishing layer is sewn on top: it can be chipboards, gypsum cardboard. You can glue the wallpaper on top. You can finish with plasterboard or chipboard. When equipping an attic type roof, thermal insulation must be combined with a special reflective film on an aluminum base. The side of the film, coated with a special reflective compound, is attached from the outside.

The main purpose of the film is to reflect ultraviolet rays in the summer months - this will reduce the heating of the air in the attic. A waterproofing film to protect the insulation from fumes present in the heated air, on the contrary, is placed on the inside.

Materials for the outside

External insulation of the roof of a wooden house no longer requires cotton wool - it is too soft - but a more durable material. Insulating foam is suitable in this capacity: it has very good heat-saving characteristics, it is durable and fireproof.

Laying steps

The technology does not require much effort and consists of a sequence of the following actions:

• creation of a barrier from a film with vapor-proof properties;
• arrangement of an insulating layer due to foam plates;
• lining of roofing material or synthetic analogue in protection from water (strengthened with mastic resin glue);
• backfilling of materials.

This is a classic version that is used all over the place.

Polyurethane coating

However, it is not the only one: modern owners also use polyurethane foam as a material, which is much more effective than foam.

It is not worthwhile to carry out insulation with your own hands: it is better to contact specialists who use the material in cylinders. The procedure is carried out as follows:

• the roof is being prepared - an inspection, a survey of the owners of the house and the development of a work plan;
• polyurethane foam is applied.

The final layer receives all the quality necessary for full-fledged insulation and lasts about 25-30 years. This technology saves a lot of time.

Final stage

Insulation of the roof of a wooden house is completed with insulation of the floor and ceiling of the attic, which will not allow warm air, striving upward, to collide with the currents of cold air descending from the non-insulated ceiling. The thermal insulation layer is arranged with waterproofing elements.

First, all the gaps between the beams, beams are clogged with tow, felt or foam insulation is used. Further, the space between the beams is filled with mineral wool, expanded clay and slag are placed on top. If the attic space is used as a living space, then it is correct to insulate the wooden floor, leaving a small gap between the boards and the insulation, which also helps to reduce the formation of condensation.

Insulation of the roof of a house made of wood is one of the key stages of construction. The roof is exposed to the environment more than other structural elements, therefore, without high-quality insulation, you can forget about comfortable living in the house.

The lack of high-quality insulation allows the cold to freely penetrate into the living quarters, so heating costs in winter increase to incredible values. To avoid these problems, you need to know how to insulate the roof in a wooden house with your own hands and what materials to choose for work.

Why do you need to insulate the roof?

For novice craftsmen, the goals of roof insulation are not entirely clear. At first glance, this is not at all a prerequisite, especially if the attic is non-residential and is used to store unnecessary things. In such cases, an air pocket is formed between the roof and the rooms, which is able to trap cold air currents.

In addition, wood has relatively good thermal insulation properties, therefore, it is not necessary to bear additional costs for insulation. This is a common misconception.

Note! The main reason for roof insulation is to reduce heating costs in winter.

Of course, an air pocket in the attic will not allow cold air to penetrate inside, but it also does not create obstacles for heat to escape from the living quarters.

Temperature fluctuations lead to the formation of condensation on internal surfaces and rafters. Constant moisture and dampness is a favorable environment for the development of mold and mildew. These harmful microorganisms are able to turn a reliable house into a dilapidated structure in a short time. It is noteworthy that it is almost impossible to remove the fungus after its appearance on wooden surfaces.

The key step in roof insulation is the choice of insulation material. It is necessary to figure out what options for purchase the modern market can offer.

The choice of insulation

It is noteworthy, but when choosing a suitable material, it is necessary to take into account not only the heat-insulating ability. The insulation should not contain and release toxic and chemically active substances. It should keep its shape well and not cause problems during processing and styling. Moreover, the thermal insulation should not create a load on the supporting structures. In private construction, several types of insulation are used.

Mineral wool

Minvata is one of the most affordable and widespread insulation materials on the Russian construction market. It is produced in slabs or rolls, has a fibrous structure, which reliably isolates the interior space from the sounds of the street. The advantages of mineral wool are that the material is resistant to temperature extremes, does not support combustion, and does not attract rodents and other pests. For do-it-yourself insulation of the roof of a wooden house from the inside, this is the best option.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the dependence on a humid environment and the need to install the crate. If the attic is to be used as a residential attic, some of the interior space is hidden after the work is completed.

Expanded clay

It is a porous stone of artificial origin, which has excellent thermal insulation properties. The material is easy to install and does not create a load on the supporting structures and the base. However, expanded clay is more suitable for external insulation of the roof or walls, it is used for the floor. It will take a fairly thick layer to create a high-quality thermal insulation cake, and this increases costs.

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene

Both materials are made from polystyrene granules and are similar in appearance. Insulation is produced in the form of slabs, which attract the attention of developers by their low weight and ease of installation. The difference between polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene lies in the production technology, which implies different characteristics and properties.

Polyfoam is obtained as a result of processing polystyrene granules with steam, which connects individual particles to each other, forming a porous structure. Expanded polystyrene is created by extrusion, which gives the material a higher density.

Both options are neutral to the effects of a humid environment, have a specific low thermal conductivity. Giving preference to polystyrene or expanded polystyrene, do not forget that the material burns, attracts mice and rats, and can crumble over time, creating gaps in the roof insulation.

Liquid polyurethane foam

This is a modern type of insulation, which is laid under pressure in a liquid form. Thanks to this structure, polyurethane foam evenly fills the free space, forming a monolithic thermal insulation of the roof or walls without cold bridges. The material is non-flammable, does not create additional loads on the floors and is neutral to a humid environment.

The disadvantages of liquid polyurethane foam can be called the impossibility of independent work and the cost of the material. However, the last nuance is justified by the durability and quality of thermal insulation.

Technology

Contrary to popular belief, it is better not to engage in insulation during the construction process. After the completion of the work, the house is subject to shrinkage, which can provoke a slight deformation of all structural elements. As a result, tears appear on the surface of the heat-insulating cake, which negatively affects the quality of the work performed. Professional builders recommend waiting about a year and only after that do the insulation. The process can be conditionally divided into several stages that require detailed consideration.

Preparation

Self-insulation of the roof of a wooden house begins with an inspection of all structural elements. This is especially true for old buildings where the roof was leaking. During the inspection, it is necessary to pay attention to damp areas, on which traces of decay are noticeable or fungal spores are observed. Such elements are cleaned and processed with special compounds, if necessary, a complete replacement is carried out.

This rule cannot be neglected. With a lot of undeniable advantages, wood is very dependent on a humid environment, therefore, if there are traces of rot on the surfaces, it makes no sense to engage in thermal insulation until such phenomena are completely eliminated. Dampness will gradually destroy the rafters and floors, which at least will lead to a violation of the thermal insulation layer.

Important! Ideally, when insulating a wooden roof with an antiseptic, you need to treat all surfaces, paying special attention to areas close to engineering communications.

About the benefits of hydro and vapor barrier

It is no secret that high-quality thermal insulation is a multi-layer cake, where each element performs a strictly defined function. In the standard version, it looks like this:

• waterproofing;
• crate (if necessary);
• insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• finishing finish.

The first layer is waterproofing. Here you can use ordinary plastic film, which will perfectly cope with its task - it will protect the insulation from the effects of dampness.

Note! With prolonged contact with water, even foam that is neutral to everything begins to absorb moisture.

Over-saturation leads to the separation of the compressed granules with the subsequent destruction of the insulation plate. Fasten the waterproofing directly to the base, fixing it to the rafters with the staples of the construction stapler. If your budget allows, you can purchase a super diffusion membrane with a reflective layer. This is an expensive material, but it solves 3 problems at once: it protects against moisture, reflects thermal energy, creates additional insulation and sound insulation.

Then the thermal insulation is laid. The recommended thickness of the insulating layer varies between 10–25 mm, depending on the climatic characteristics of the region. Ideally, a dense layer of insulation fills the free space between the rafters. A small ventilation gap is usually left at the top of the roof, which will allow air to circulate and prevent condensation from forming inside the insulation cake. We add that if mineral wool is used as insulation for the roof, it cannot be used to cover the electrical wiring.

The final layer is a vapor barrier. This is a film that is designed to trap warm, oversaturated air that rises from living quarters. Here you can also use polyethylene, the joints of which are glued with construction tape. If the work is done correctly, the insulation is in a kind of waterproof cocoon, while the ventilation holes left do not impede the natural air circulation. A topcoat is laid on top of the vapor barrier.

The final stage

If the attic will be used as a living or utility room, it is recommended to carry out floor insulation. The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

• all gaps between the beams are closed;
• vapor barrier is laid;
• insulation is being installed, usually mineral wool or foam;
• a layer of expanded clay is filled up;
• the screed is poured.

Floor covering, such as linoleum, boards or laminate, is laid on top of the base.

Secrets of outdoor insulation

Thermal insulation can be placed inside or outside. Each of the options for carrying out work has its own advantages and disadvantages.

For example, if thermal insulation is placed on the outer surface of the roof, the dew point shifts towards the street, therefore, there is no need to fear condensation. However, the performance of such work directly depends on weather conditions, and only high-quality and, therefore, expensive materials are used for insulation.

If a flat roof is insulated, the sheets of insulation are arranged at an angle of 5-7 degrees in two layers. As a fastener, only special screws with wide caps are used so as not to push through the insulation. It is recommended to use foil-insol or bitumen-polymer compositions as waterproofing.

Insulation of the roof from the inside is carried out not only in order to arrange an additional room in the attic, but also for maximum preservation of heat throughout the house.

If the building has an attic roof, then the insulation is carried out directly on the roof itself, which is not only a roof for the future room, but also walls. If the structure or has one slope, then most often the thermal insulation is arranged in the attic floor.

The third variant of thermal insulation measures is used in regions with a harsh climate, where both the roof itself and the ceiling are insulated from the inside.

Types of insulation used

The modern building materials market offers a lot types of insulation, of which you can choose a suitable one for any thermal insulation work.

• Bulk materials are sawdust, expanded clay of different fractions, slag, dry leaves or needles. These heaters are used for filling in the attic floor, and they perfectly protect the lower rooms of the house from the penetration of cold, but they will not be able to make the attic itself warm.

• Mineral wool of various types, expanded polystyrene, penoflex and polyurethane foam are suitable for insulating both attic floors and.

All these materials are light enough, so they will not weigh down the structure of the roof and the whole house, but they will make it much warmer. The technologies for installing thermal insulation materials differ from each other, so it is worth considering some of them.

It should be noted that with the advent of auxiliary materials that facilitate the work process and are aimed at protecting the thermal insulation itself from external influences and maintaining their performance, it has become easier to carry out the installation process.

Video: mineral wool is an excellent material for roof insulation

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Vapor barrier coatings

One of these materials is a vapor barrier film. It is designed to protect wooden structures and insulation from exposure to vapors arising from temperature drops and leading to the formation of condensation. Excessive moisture provokes the appearance of mold, which destroys the structure of the tree, reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation and contributes to the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the room.

The vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the roof or floor structure prior to the installation of insulation materials.

When using a vapor barrier film in a heated room, it is placed only under the finishing layer of the walls.

To protect structures that are exposed to high temperatures on one side, and on the other - low, the vapor barrier must be located on both sides. Such structures include wooden attic floors and roofs when insulated. Concrete slabs do not require the installation of vapor barrier materials.

The protective film can have different thicknesses and be of different types - a regular non-woven material or a foil membrane. In the case of using the latter on the structure of the attic floor, it is laid down with foil, since it reflects the heat rising from below to the ceiling, thereby preventing it from escaping outside. The sheets of material are fastened together with foil tape, which helps to create an airtight coating.

Prices for different types of insulating films

Insulating films

Insulation of the attic floor

Any insulation measures are best carried out in the process of building a house, but, unfortunately, very often they are done only when they feel the winter cold.

Before filling or laying the insulation, you need to carry out preparatory work. This is especially important if you use fine expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

• Previously, when there were no modern auxiliary materials on sale, a plank attic floor was prepared as follows:

- Boards, fixed to the floor beams, were thoroughly coated with a solution of clay or lime, having an average consistency in density. These natural materials create a good airtightness of the floor, but at the same time, they allow the whole structure to "breathe".

- After complete drying of the clay or lime, the insulation works were carried out. Previously, slag, sawdust, dry leaves or a mixture of these materials were mainly used for this. They fell asleep between the beams on prepared boards.

It should be noted that the old traditional method is quite reliable, and therefore some builders even prefer it to the modern one to this day.

• In modern construction, a special vapor barrier film is mainly used for flooring under insulation. Its canvases are laid completely over the entire area of ​​the attic with an overlap of 15–20 cm, deepening between the beams and fixing them to boards and beams. It is recommended to glue the canvases together with construction tape.

The film will become an additional obstacle on the way out of the premises of the house for heat through the ceiling, since the heated air, going up not finding a way out, it will go down and stay inside the house.

• Further, insulating material is poured onto the film, mineral wool is laid, expanded clay is poured, or the openings between the beams are filled with ecowool. You can also use the insulation used earlier - slag or sawdust.

• To avoid the appearance of cold bridges through wooden beams, a layer of thin insulation must also be fixed on them.

• On top of the insulation material, another layer of vapor barrier is laid, in the same way as before - with an overlap. This layer of film is fixed to the floor beams with slats, which are more often called counter-strips.
• A covering of boards or thick plywood is laid on top.

Sometimes the vapor barrier can be fixed from the inside of the room to the wooden ceiling, but in this case it will need to be finished, for example, with plasterboard plates. They will level the ceiling and become another additional insulation layer.

Insulation of roof slopes

When insulating roof slopes, as well as when insulating floors, they are used mineral wool and expanded polystyrene, but mineral wool in this case it is preferable, since it has practically zero flammability.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to use foam, then it is recommended to purchase an extruded version. Although it has a slightly higher thermal conductivity, it is not flammable, which is very important for wooden structures.

Different systems are used to insulate the roof slopes, but they always contain a layer of vapor barrier material, insulation, waterproofing and counter-lattice.

1. This diagram shows one of the options for the insulation "pie". It is used in roof construction and roofing decking.

• It is laid on the rafter system. Usually, for this layer, polyethylene is used, which has a high density (more than 200 microns thick) - it will also protect the roof not only from moisture, but from wind penetration under it. The film is laid with an overlap of 20 ÷ 25 cm and fixed to the rafters using staples and a stapler.
• On top of the film, a counter-rail with a thickness of 5 ÷ 7 mm is fixed on each rafter. It is necessary so that the roofing material does not adhere directly to the waterproofing film, and there is a small distance between them for air circulation.
• Further, if the roof slopes are covered with soft roofing material, it is necessary to lay plywood on top of the counter rails. In the case when slate or other rigid sheet material is used, a crate is arranged instead of plywood, the width between its slats is calculated according to the length of the sheets of roofing material.
• When the lathing is ready, the roof is covered with the chosen covering.

After that, you can proceed to the insulation measures that are carried out from the inside, that is, from the attic room.

• Mats of mineral wool or other insulation are placed between the rafters. They should fit as tightly as possible between the elements of the wooden structure. Installation of mats is carried out, starting from the bottom, gradually rising to the ridge. Insulation should be the same thickness as the width of the rafters or slightly less her, by about 10 ÷ 15 mm.
• The laid insulation is tightened with a vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the rafters with slats. The film is also overlapped and glued with construction tape.

• Further, if the attic space will be equipped for a living room, then the entire surface is sheathed with plasterboard or clapboard. In addition, in this case, in addition to the walls and ceiling, the floors are also insulated, that is, the attic floor.

2. Another option may be a thicker insulation "cake", which is also installed immediately when installing the roof.

• In this case, a waterproofing windproof film is also laid on the rafter system.
• A crate for the roofing material is arranged on top of it.
• Further from the side of the attic, the first is laid between the rafters a layer of insulation, which should be equal to the width of the rafters.
• Then, transverse slats are stuffed onto the rafters at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation of the next layer. In this case, a thinner insulation is used. Its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the padded crossbars.
• After that comes a vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the slats with brackets.
• The interior decoration material is then attached to the slats.

If the roof is insulated in an already built house, where the roof covering is fixed, then a vapor barrier is fixed to the rafters from the attic side with brackets, and only after that the insulation is laid. Further, the process proceeds in the same way as in the previous versions.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam takes place differently than bulk materials or mats of mineral wool and foam.

This method of thermal insulation has recently become more and more popular and is suitable both for ordinary attics and for the attic, which will later become an additional room.

If the attic is ventilated, and a living space will not be arranged in it, then only the attic floor is insulated. For this, it is recommended to moisten the boards and beams for better adhesion, and a thin layer of polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the wet surface between the beams. After it has foamed, increased in volume and solidified, if necessary, another layer is applied. Such insulation will be quite enough to keep the house warm, since the foam penetrates into all the cracks and closes them hermetically.

If the attic allows for its height to arrange a room on it, or the attic is an attic superstructure to the house, in addition to overlapping with polyurethane foam, the roof slopes are also insulated.

Spraying starts from the bottom of the structure, gradually rising to the ridge. Foam is sprayed between the rafters, and its lower layers, rising and solidifying, will be the reference for the next upper applied levels.

A similar or loft space creates a completely sealed, unventilated space. Polyurethane foam will retain heat well inside the premises in winter and will not allow the attic to overheat on hot summer days. However, ventilation should still be provided, since the room must necessarily receive air flow.

This type of thermal insulation has the following advantages over other heaters:

• The polyurethane foam coating has no joints or seams throughout the entire area to be insulated.
• A significant reduction in temperature differences in the attic and rooms on the lower floors is achieved.
• The building receives reliable protection from low and high temperatures that affect the house from the outside.
• This method of insulation shows a high payback in a very short time, due to the reduction of heating costs due to the low thermal conductivity of the sprayed material.
• When spraying polyurethane foam directly onto the roof, it receives additional rigidity and strength, since the leveling coating forms a reliable connection with the entire roof structure. At the same time, the polyurethane foam layer does not significantly increase the roof weight.
• Convenience application - foam closes all hard-to-reach places of the roof and floors, penetrating into all large and small holes and cracks, expanding and sealing walls and floors.
• Polyurethane foam is highly resistant to moisture, to the appearance any forms of biological life, high and low temperatures, prevents the emergence and development of wood decay processes.
• Foam provides not only excellent thermal insulation to the premises, but also well insulates from extraneous noise from the outside.
• Polyurethane foam does not shrink, does not wrinkle or soften.
• The insulation has a fairly long service life, which is about 30 years.
• The material does not emit substances toxic to the human body and unpleasant odors.

The disadvantages of sprayed insulation include the following factors:

• The toxicity of the material during its application, therefore, you need to work with the use of protective equipment.

• Polyurethane foam is susceptible to the negative influence of ultraviolet rays, therefore, after applying the insulation, it must be covered with a finishing material, for example, clapboard, plywood or drywall.
• For installation work on polyurethane foam insulation, you must have special expensive equipment. True, if you have the skills to work with this material, then the equipment can be rented. But in the case when this work is unfamiliar, it is better not to risk it, but to invite specialists with equipment to spray the material.

Video: spraying polyurethane foam on the roof slopes from the inside

Insulation of the attic and roof is necessary for buildings located in most Russian regions, therefore, this process should not be postponed "until later", but it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation work at the stage of building a house. Excluding the method of spraying polyurethane, all other insulation measures can be carried out independently, observing the technology of work. If you enlist the help of a friend, then the roof insulation can well be done in a few days.

Without high-quality thermal insulation at home, it will not be possible to save on heating in winter. Walls and floors are not all pathways through which heat leaves a living space. In addition to them, it is also necessary to insulate the roof.

Internal insulation scheme

A kind of cake is a high-quality insulation of the roof from the inside, consisting in almost all cases of three main layers:

1. Waterproofing
2. Thermal insulation
3. Vapor barrier

However, the basis of the entire structure is the rafter system, which will act as a base link. It is easiest to lay a heat-insulating layer inside it.

Correctly selected materials for each of the layers of the cake are the basis for high-quality insulation. The market is rich in various products, but you should not pay attention only to cheap options, giving preference to the golden mean.

The main purpose of the waterproofing layer is to protect the insulation from moisture from outside. It, accumulating inside it, destroys the structure of the material and renders it unusable. The purpose of the vapor barrier is to keep vapors out of the air.

For protection from humid environments, special membrane or film materials are used. The former have better permeability, but their market value is more expensive. Since it will not be possible to ensure complete sealing of the insulation, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps and seams.

Introductory video on insulating a pitched roof in a house

Choosing a thermal insulation material

Many manufacturers offer consumers a wide variety of heat insulators, each of which has positive and negative sides. Among all the performance characteristics, it is customary to pay special attention to the following:

• The level of moisture absorption - the less this ability of the materials in question is, the longer their service life can be expected
• Thermal conductivity - it should be as low as possible. However, this indicator is relative, since an increase in porosity and importance can significantly worsen it.
• Insulation materials with low density have much better thermal insulation performance.

Video on the choice of material

One should also pay attention to such characteristics as environmental friendliness, chemical resistance, flammability and frost resistance.

The most widespread for roof insulation from the inside are mineral wool and glass wool. They have all the required characteristics and are relatively easy to use.

Expanded polystyrene is no less popular. In addition to high thermal insulation properties, it practically does not absorb moisture, is durable and tough, resistant to high temperatures and open fire. A significant disadvantage is the susceptibility to colonization by rodents. That is why it has not become widespread.

Other, less common methods of internal insulation are also possible:

• Spraying is one of the most expensive methods, which is recommended to be entrusted to a professional craftsman. If you need to insulate an ordinary attic, and not - you should choose this method. Material costs will be paid off by performance characteristics
• Thermal insulation with liquid compounds (polyurethane foam or foam concrete) - not very popular, as they require the use of specialized equipment for work

If thermal insulation of a classic attic space is required, additional insulation is made above the ceiling (expanded clay, sawdust, sand, etc.).

Do-it-yourself roof insulation

The most common case is the insulation of pitched roofs using roll materials. First of all, you need to draw up instructions for yourself, following which you can count on a high quality result. Consider the case when the roof has not yet been laid.

First, you need to go through the attic again and make sure that all the components are in perfect order. If defects are found (decay, cracks, etc.), they should be repaired immediately.

Sometimes various communication systems are laid on the roof: electrical wiring, heating, water supply, etc. They are also subject to careful inspection and elimination of defects. Only after the order has been established can one proceed to further work.

The first step will be to apply a waterproofing film to the outer surface. In order for it to fulfill its purpose, several rules must be taken into account:

• It is necessary to lay the film across, while at the joints, stripes of about a meter are overlaid, which is glued with tape
• It is necessary to select material for waterproofing only after purchasing insulation, so that they match each other in terms of characteristics
• In no case should you pull it tightly over the surface. At sub-zero temperatures, it will begin to shrink and, as a result, may burst.

Having completed the work with waterproofing, it is necessary to start arranging the lathing. For it, bars treated with antiseptic materials no more than 25 mm in size are recommended. Corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws are used for fixing

Roofing materials can be attached directly to the battens. Things will be a little different with a soft roof. It is recommended to place moisture-resistant drywall or chipboard between it and the wood.

The next step is to lay insulating material in the gaps between the rafters. It is recommended to adjust the plates to the width between the rafter opening, the mats are cut into equal pieces.

The material is laid in such a way that there are no gaps between the elements. It should also not be pressed very tightly against the roof, so that the ventilation gap remains.

Another feature is the laying of heat-insulating material not in one, but in two layers. At the same time, they are located relative to each other with an offset so that the through joints are closed.

Having finished with the installation of the insulation, you can proceed to the next stage - tension and fastening of the vapor barrier film or membrane. It is recommended to nail it to the rafter boards with staples. It, unlike waterproofing, stretches much more tightly.

Then you can proceed to the final stage of roof insulation from the inside - interior decoration. A wooden frame is stuffed on top of the vapor barrier film, to which the desired finishing material will be attached.

Video on thermal insulation using polyurethane foam

Some helpful tips

Insulating the roof from the inside, not everything can go as smoothly as it seems at the first time. In addition, any rafter system has its own characteristics.

We list a number of rules that can be useful when performing work on roof insulation:

1. Special attention should be paid to waterproofing and vapor barrier when working with mineral insulation. They are most susceptible to moisture accumulation inside, causing a destructive effect.
2. Sometimes, under a light roof, the roof truss system is erected from a bar of a small section. In this case, you will have to use a combined method of thermal insulation, placing the material not only between the beams, but also under them.
3. When the step of the rafter system is too large, the insulation is additionally fixed with wire, which is pulled between the screws screwed into the rafters
4. In order for the insulation not to sit tightly between the rafters, its width must be greater than the same characteristic of the openings
5. Do not make too many layers of insulation. For example, for thermal insulation with a thickness of 20 cm, two layers of 10 cm each would be better than four layers of 5 cm.
6. The insulation can be placed close to the super diffusion membrane. In all other cases, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap
7. It is necessary to monitor the ventilation gaps, which should not be covered by thermal insulation material.

In custody

Absolutely everyone can make high-quality insulation of the roof from the inside, which will serve for more than a dozen years, reliably keeping heat and not letting in the cold. However, for those who do not want to waste their energy and time, professionals offer their services. The cost of work may vary within 5-25 USD. e. per square.

The construction of a wooden house is always associated with a large number of technological processes, the subtleties of the implementation of which are best considered during the preparation of the project. One of these processes is the installation of an insulating layer. This article will discuss how to insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, if during construction the external thermal insulation of the slopes was not performed.

Internal insulation structure

When it comes to insulating the roof of a wooden house from the inside, it is assumed that all work will be carried out from the attic side. In this case, materials with a low level of thermal conductivity are used. Of course, this approach is optimal only in cases where the roofing has already been installed and it is not possible to perform thermal insulation without disassembling the flooring.

There are several conditions for internal insulation:

1. To prevent heat loss through the pitched roof, the layer of insulating material should be at least 15 cm. In this regard, the usable area of ​​the space under the roof is noticeably reduced, so this approach is not too much in demand for arranging attic rooms.
2. Since the material for insulating the roof slopes from the inside is placed directly behind the layer of interior decoration, it is able to absorb much more moisture, even if a vapor barrier is installed. Consequently, soon the insulation gets wet, and then ceases to perform its functions and settles.
3. The cost of insulating a pitched roof from the inside is significantly higher than when performing external thermal insulation. The fact is, during the installation process, you need to hold the material above your head in order to secure it.
4. In order to protect the people living in the house, only environmentally friendly materials can be used for internal thermal insulation of the room. Their cost is about 2 times higher than that of materials for external insulation.

Before insulating the roof of a house from the inside, you need to learn a few rules. It is important to remember that, provided that a gable roof is insulated from the inside, any insulation should be laid only in parallel with the installation of membranes or films for hydro and vapor barrier. Otherwise, the material will quickly absorb moisture, begin to crumple and deform, and will cease to perform heat-insulating functions. In addition, in the attic, where moisture accumulates much more, it is recommended to equip a forced ventilation system.

The better to insulate - what materials can be used for a wooden house

Let's figure out what is the best way to insulate the roof of a private house, in one case or another. For the internal thermal insulation of a room, a variety of materials can be used, differing in quality, technical parameters and cost. As for wooden buildings, non-combustible, vapor-permeable and moisture-resistant materials that conduct heat poorly are considered optimal.

The most demanded are:

• Mineral wool... It is made from fiberglass, gabbro-basalt or slag. The material is sold in rolls, slabs or mats. Among the characteristics are high efficiency, incombustibility, low price and ease of installation. Of all the possible options, the better to insulate the roof of the house from the inside, this one, perhaps, can be considered optimal. In our country, roof insulation from the inside with mineral wool is the most popular option for thermal insulation. However, while working, you must wear goggles, gloves, a respirator and overalls to protect you from small particles of material.
• Expanded polystyrene, or polystyrene... The main advantages of the material are low thermal conductivity, low weight and good protection from moisture. It is very convenient to work with such material, since it is well cut, it is easy to fix it. However, expanded polystyrene does not have a vapor permeability. In this regard, dampness accumulates in the room and mold forms. To avoid the consequences, forced ventilation is usually provided.
• Polyurethane foam... Such material can be purchased already in the form of ready-made panels, or in a liquid state. Such a mixture is foamed with carbon dioxide before being applied to the inner surface of the slope. Although this type of insulation is quite popular among consumers, it is distinguished by its absolute vapor tightness. In this regard, it is strictly forbidden to apply such material to the inner surface of the roof of a wooden house. Moreover, independent installation of polyurethane foam is practically not performed - due to the complexity and high cost of equipment, this is done by specialists.

Please note that the material for roof insulation, which is used from the inside, must be absolutely safe for the life and health of residents. Among the proven insulating materials, one can name ecowool. It contains flax or cellulose fibers impregnated with special antiseptic and flame retardant substances. In addition, in terms of the level of noise absorption and thermal insulation, the material is similar to mineral wool.

Roof insulation methods from the inside

So that efforts and time are not wasted, you need to know how to properly insulate the roof of a house from the inside. Note that this process is somewhat more complicated than external roof insulation. Nevertheless, if there is still no other choice, it is necessary to purchase an insulating material, a vapor barrier membrane, consumables (screws and wooden strips). You will also need to prepare a marker, sharp knife, stapler and screwdriver.

Two methods are usually used for internal roof insulation:

1. Laying between the rafters. If the thickness of the insulation layer is less than the cross-section of the rafters, the material is placed in the space between them. First, the roll insulation is cut into pieces that are 2-3 cm wider than the gap between the rafters. The material is placed in the formed niches. The disadvantage of this method is the possibility of cold penetration into the attic through small cracks in the frame.
2. Decking over the rafter legs. This method is used in cases where the cross-section of the rafters is not enough for laying the insulation of the required thickness. In this case, 2 layers of insulation are installed. The first is mounted in niches between the rafters, and the second is laid on top of the rafter frame. After that, the double layer of insulation is fixed by stuffing wooden slats or a metal profile perpendicular to the frame. In this case, the effectiveness of the roof insulation is significantly increased.

Please note that in cases where the roof slope does not exceed 25º, the insulation placed between the rafter legs may fall out of the niche under the weight of its weight. In this case, it will need to be fixed with a profile or wooden slats, or pull several rows of fishing line perpendicular to the frame.