How to put a gender tile in the bathroom. How to put a tile in the bathroom. Paul preparation for tile laying

When laying tiles in the bathroom, it is very important to fulfill all the requirements of the technology of this type of work, since errors can lead to sad consequences. Properly laid tile on the floor in the bathroom will not only decorate the interior of the room, but also protect the lower floors from flooding with sudden damage to communications or breakage of the equipment installed in the bathroom. To obtain a beautiful, durable and safe flooring, you must choose a high-quality tile, designed specifically for laying on the floor.

The floor tile differs from the wall tile with dimensions, structure, anti-slip surface. The right choice of glue also plays a last role in the success of the entire event. Another important step that affects the final result is the preparation of the base base, which should be even, clean, waterproof and primed. If when laying outdoor tiles, adhere to all construction standards and rules, then you can not doubt the repair.

Stopping the tile on an unprepared base cannot be due to a significant glue recalculation, with which it will have to achieve a smooth surface of the coating. Since glue "floats", it will not be possible to avoid the presence of irregularities, protruding corners and the weltering tiles, spoiling a tiled floor and hanging around it. Therefore, experienced tile wizards align the basic base using for this:

• sand-concrete tie;
• self-leveling mixtures (bulk floors).

In the presence of an old tile coating, it takes it to disassemble, armed with a perforator with a chisel or a manual chisel. The latter option is used if you need to remove the entire tile for the secondary laying. The perforator allows you to carry out dismantling work most quickly, while also the old screed is also removed.

After the dismantling is completed on the concrete base and the lower part of the walls, a layer of waterproofing is applied.

Waterproofing masses applied to the floor of the floor with a bathroom at the walls of the room, allow you to reliably protect the base from the penetration of moisture

After that, lighthouses are displayed on the floor, according to which the sprinkled sand-cement screed is aligned with the rule.

Further work is carried out after complete drying of the applied concrete solution, which is usually given for about three days.

The floor with a large height drop is aligned by applying a sand-cement screed, which is postponed by the beacons in advance.

Self-leveling mixtures do not require the placement of beacons and dry much faster. Therefore, these materials are used more and more often for floor alignment. Remember that for their application you need a special tool - needle roller, which helps to distribute the mixture on the floor and "expel" air bubbles from it.

If the base floor is smooth in the bathroom, then work on the preparation of the base for laying the tile is only in its purification from dust and garbage. These operations are carried out using a conventional broom or maclove (one of the types of painting brushes).

Choosing a Facing Tile Styling Fashion

There are three frequently used methods for laying tiles in the bathroom, each of which has its advantages. The main difference between these methods lies in the choice of the place of origin.

Option # 1: From a long visible angle

This option is considered traditional. In this case, the first tile is placed in the angle of the room, which is opposite the door. It is this place that is most viewed, since it immediately falls into the field of view of a person who is part of the room. If this area is planned to be used to install a shower or bath, it is more expedient to choose a different laying of tiles.

Stacking outdoor tiles from the angle begin with gluing cutting elements, after which there is a solid element between them

Option # 2: From the threshold

This method of placing the floor tile is most common in practice, since in small bathrooms, this part of the floor remains in sight, and the remaining zones are engaged in plumbing. From the name it is clear that the first tile is placed in the corner, the closest to the interior door.

Option # 3: From the central tag

This option is designed for spacious bathrooms for which the presence of an open central zone is characterized. In most residential premises, bathrooms have a small area, so this method is used very rarely.

Specialized furniture and plumbing installed around the perimeter of the bathroom will close the outbreak elements that will be located near the walls. The center of the bathroom is determined by the markup, when executing which:

• miden walls are determined and labels are set;
• between the marks, the marking cord is stretched, grave pre-grated, so that the lines remain on the screed;
• the intersection point of these lines and will be the center of the room.

The point of intersection of the chalk lines indicates the place of the joint of four tiles, from the stacking of which the process of floor lining begins. With diagonal laying, another line is carried out that divide the straight angle in half.

Preparation of the project layout of tiles on scale

Tile is an expensive material, so it is necessary to eliminate the likelihood of errors when it is laying. To do this, before starting work, carefully consider the layout plan, drawing various options on paper in a smaller scale. At the same time you can:

• clearly imagine the form of the floor decorated with tiles in different ways;
• calculate the exact amount of material and surplus fragments;
• outline the location of decorative elements;
• make adjustments in case of such a need;
• use the developed scheme when conducting work, which will reduce the time for their implementation.

In the preparation of the project, it is necessary to take into account not only the real size of the room, but also the exact dimensions of the floor tile that you are going to lay.

Performing a work surface markup

Before starting laying the tile on the lined floor in the bathroom, using an ordinary marker, we make marking on the working surface in exact accordance with the project previously developed. The lines are carried out according to the line, so that in the process of laying to avoid the appearance of distortions. You can use with more modern equipment, such as a laser level. Even the experienced masters before starting work lay out the tile, thereby checking the correctness of the developed laying scheme again.

Beginner tires are definitely not worth it, since after gluing the tile, anything cannot be fixed. Depending on the features of the adhesive composition, the defect correction time varies within 15-30 minutes.

Comb, so called otherwise the toothed spatula, roll up a layer of tiled glue, applied to the floor under the next batch of tiles

What tile glue to use?

Specialized adhesive for tile manufacturers produce in the form:

• ready-made mixtures of polyurethane;
• dry mixes requiring dilution with water in the proportion specified in the instructions.

The finished mixtures after opening the container must be used immediately, and dry materials can be spent gradually. For the bathroom, it is better to acquire water-repellent glue, which has unique hydrophobic qualities. This type of adhesive refers to expensive materials, but in the future there will be no problems during the operation of the room with elevated moisture level.

Special adhesives for laying outdoor tiles, which have greater plasticity than similar materials used during wall cladding are also available. When buying such adhesion, pay attention to its use in the bathrooms.

The sequence of work on laying

First of all, you need to cook the tool that you will work. A set of spatulas is one of the main types of tools needed for laying tiles to the floor in the bathroom. In addition to the flat, comb and rubber spatulas, the tiles and the construction level will still be required, which will determine the horizontal of laying separately taken elements. A kiyanka (rubber hammer) can also be useful, although experienced masters cost their fists. To quickly and uniform glue stirring, you will need a mixer.

For laying outdoor tiles you will be useful to the toothed spatula (6 mm), level, bollard for cutting of a tile, a cynica, cross-strips, an electric door with nozzles

Now let's talk about the process of laying tiles directly. For a start, apply impregnating primer on the cement-sand tie, distributing the remedy on the floor surface with a wide painting brush (scrolling). Do not save the primer solution, as it improves the adhesion of the glued surfaces.

It is advisable to choose primers with antibacterial additives against mold. Indeed, in wet and warm rooms there are all conditions for its rapid reproduction. Give the facility to dry the field. To do this, just wait one hour.

Next, using a small flat spatula, throw the tile glue to the floor fragment, which closes the tile. Then take a gear or comb spatula and crush the glue layer, sticking to one direction. The remnants of the adhesive solution collect on the spatula and skip back into the tank with glue.

Then take the tile and carefully consider it the front part. If you notice the cheap glaze around the edges, then leave this defect tile for trimming. Pouring the surface of high-quality tiles moisten with water, and then apply tile glue, also distributing it on the surface with a toothed spatula.

At the same time, make sure that the adhesive ridges on the floor and on the tile were located relative to each other at right angles. Such applying glue contributes to a better clutch of a tie with a tile.

A solution of glue is also applied to the tile itself, which is divided into smooth grooves with a toothed spatula

After that, put the tile by lining its position on the previously planned markup, strictly observing the straight corners. A minor deviation will result in further to visible skews, fix that will be very difficult. Longly knock on a tile with a fist or a queen. The remains of the tiled adhesive, outreach at the same time, collect a spatula and throw off into the container.

Now apply tile glue to a large area, thereby preparing the working base for laying several elements. Do not overestimate your capabilities, since the adhesively dries relatively quickly. Place subsequent tiles on the same algorithm. Between adjacent elements, insert cross or struts, the diameter of which is 2-2.5 mm. These auxiliary elements will ensure the perfectly smooth width of interputric seams. With the help of a spatula corner, clean the glue from the intercine seams, as then this space will be filled with decorative grout.

During work, do not let out of the hands, constantly checking the smooth styling of the tile on the floor! Although experienced masters can determine the horizontal facing with their hands, spending several times on the coated coating. But such a professional flair comes only with experience and beginners to rely on it. It is better to trust accurate measuring instruments.

After completing the facing work, it is necessary to withstand the day, thereby giving the glue carefully harden. After a day, proceed to the grout of intercutric seams, using a special rubber spatula. With this small tool, it is possible to quickly fill the space between the tiles and remove the surplus mixture from their surface. Having won half an hour, take a conventional foam sponge and, inamuing it with warm water, wash off the grogoral mixture, slightly pressing on the lined seams. If necessary, it is possible to add a grout to those places where it is not enough, a slightly twisting the applied mixture with a wet sponge.

At the last stage, rinse the tiled floor with a wet sponge several times, and then wipe the dry cloth until the shine of the new coating appears.

In this video, you can see a master class on laying outdoor tiles, as well as get advice on installing sex and grouting seams.

As you can see, the facing of the floor of the bathroom with a tiled tile can be performed with their own hands. At the same time, it is only necessary to withstand the requirements of the technology of finishing work, without disturbing the sequence of operations and does not save on the materials purchased. Experienced masters who have repeatedly conducted tile laying, advise when buying a tile carefully study information on each box. This will allow you to buy material of one series, not differ in size, color, structure. If you feel that you will not cope with this work, do not spoil the expensive material by poor quality installation. Invite a professional, which will complete the floor of the bathroom quickly and beautifully.

Probably there is no such house or apartment, where ceramic tiles would be present as a finishing material. The tile is the most common, classic way to separate the floor and walls in the bathroom. The tile is practical, durable in operation and ensures reliable protection against moisture. That is why this material has gained wide popularity.

Laying tiles in the bathroom with their own hands is not easy, but performed. All you need is not to hurry and clearly comply with the actions algorithm. But to begin with the correctly choose the material.

Before you go to the store or on the construction market, it is necessary to correctly measure the area of \u200b\u200beach wall, as well as the floor. Based on this, the required amount of material is determined. Be sure to consider that during delivery or laying, some part of the tile can break or be incorrectly cut. Therefore, buy material with a reserve of 10-15%.

The amount of tiles is considered square meters, decorative elements - robust.

The color of the tile, its size, shape, and pattern, is the question that everyone decides itself, and here you should not trust sellers too trust, because you will put the tile in your home. There are three parameters that cannot be neglected by making a choice:

1. Resistance to moisture. According to this indicator, the tile has four classes (I, II, III, IV). For the bathroom it is worth choosing tiles Ia, IIA, IB, IIB. Letters denotes the method of production of tiles: a - extrusion, B - pressing.
2. Wear resistance. Distinguish five strength classes. Since the load on the walls in the bathroom is small, it is quite suitable 1 or 2 class. Capper 5 class is the most durable, it is recommended to put on the floor.
3. Tile size.

In addition to the tile itself, you will need:

• tile glue;
• primer;
• crosses for seams;
• grout;
• waterproofing;
• wooden or metal rails.

Preparation for laying

The first and basic finishing rules are preparing the grounds in the room. The surface on which the ceramic tile will have to be smooth.

1. Remove the old coating with the help of a hammer, a small lomika or a chisel.
2. Check the walls on the perpendicularity of a plunder with a ship with a ship.
3. If necessary, align the walls with plaster or moisture-resistant plasterboard.
4. Protect the surface using the composition for rooms with high humidity.

As for the floor, its surface is aligned with a water or laser level. Before you check the quality. If there are cracks, they should be treated. If pits, bias or other significant defects are detected, it is recommended to perform a new cement-sand tie and put a pre-layer.

Montage tile

Cafel fixation is carried out on glue. Depending on the type of tile and the base type, a flexible, standard or special adhesive mix is \u200b\u200bused.

Powdered composition is divorced by water according to the instructions. As a result, the adhesive mass should not be too liquid or, on the contrary, thick. The glue is applied to the surface with a toothed spatula.

Putting ceramic tiles in the bathroom with two options:

• start with gender;
• start from the walls.

In the latter case, it is necessarily a gap for an outdoor tile.

If the bath is close to the wall, then the laying starts from the place above the border of the bath. To lay out the tile smoothly and correctly, first on one wall, and then the horizontal control line is drawn around the perimeter. Then the rails are installed on it and are screwed to the wall. They will not give the cafél to slip. If the ceramic coating is stacked by the bathroom, then the installation starts from the second row from the floor, passing the first.

The number of rows is calculated in advance, and the width of the seams is necessarily taken into account.

Begin to lay the tile from the wall located opposite the front door.

Before starting the installation of the tile, it is laid along the wall. If the last tile has to trim, the wall is divided into half and the first row is placed from the central line. In this case, the finish will look symmetrically.

Having reached the corners, the tile is cut with stoveturis. Then the entire trimming is stacked on both sides of the wall. To keep the seams correctly, crossbars are inserted between adjacent tiles.

The process is performed similarly on all walls. The lower row is laid last.

To beautifully put the tile on the floor, start from the center of the room. At the same time, thin edges should not fit along the walls, so calculate everything in advance.

In the process of laying tiles on the floor, larger crossings are used than for walls.

Shutkish seams

The last step towards the bathroom of your dream is the extension and cleaning. After the tiles on the walls and the floor completely dried should pull the cross and take up seams. For their processing, grout is used. This mixture not only performs a decorative function, but also protects the tile from moisture. The solution is prepared in small portions, as needed.

If the seams were wide, then the grout is used, which contains sand. Also in the mixture for elasticity can be added latex.

If a lamp is added latex, dry powder is not diluted with water.

The grout is applied with a rubber spatula, a brush or a cloth and is evenly distributed using a rubber ironing. This tool should be kept at an angle and stretching diagonally so that the wimping filled the seams completely. The drying time of the mixture is a few minutes.

When the extension is over, proceed to cleaning the surface. For this, a foam sponge and warm water will be required. You can not wash the tile parallel to the seam, otherwise the grout can be labeled. After cleaning, the surface can be wiped with microfiber.

To protect the joints from moisture, it is necessary to treat them with a sealant. It is done, as a rule, after 21 days after mounting the tile.

That's all today. Leave an opinion on the article in the comments and share your experience and secrets of the tile mounting in the bathroom.

Laying outdoor tiles in the bathroom - it is practical, reliably and durable. That is why the tile is the most applied version of the flooring in the bathrooms. Consider all the features of the choice of material and the nuances of its styling with their own hands.

If when choosing a wall tile, the focus is on the decorative component, then the strength characteristics are more important for outdoor material. Ceramic tiles for floors are produced in accordance with GOST 6787-2001. According to this regulatory document, the physico-mechanical characteristics of the floor tiles must correspond to the values \u200b\u200bspecified in the table.

In addition to the indicators given in the table, the tile must have chemical resistance to certain types of solutions according to GOST 27180-2001.

An important value is the size and thickness of the ceramics for the floor. According to the current regulatory documents, the floor tile is manufactured by the following forms and sizes:

1. Square: 150 × 150; 200 × 200; 250 × 250; 300 × 300; 330 × 330; 400 × 400; 500 × 500 mm.
2. Rectangle: 150 × 200; 200 × 250; 200 × 300; 300 × 400; 300 × 500 mm.

Note! The minimum thickness of the ceramic tile intended for use as an outdoor coating is 7.5 mm. All products with a smaller thickness are designed for cladding walls.

As for the choice of the size of the tile, it is worth repelled from the dimensions of the bathroom. For compact premises, it is better to take ceramics of minimal sizes: such registration will look like the most harmonious and visually increase the area. Large square or rectangular tile is suitable for spacious bathrooms.

Tip! When choosing facing for the floor, pay attention to the front surface. Do not choose smooth glossy samples, as the floor will be very slippery and will increase the risk of injury, especially on a wet coating. The optimal structure of the facial surface is slightly rough or embossed.

Often, a porcelain bandwidth manufactured by GOST R 57141-2016 is used to favay the warm floors in the bathrooms. It has less water absorption, greater durability and hardness. The physico-mechanical characteristics of porcelain stonework, designed for facing floors inside the rooms, are shown in the table.

Note! The dimensions of the manufactured stoves made of porcelain stoneware are 300-1200 mm wide with a width and 200-1200 mm in length. The minimum stove thickness is 7 mm.

What tile glue to use

When choosing an adhesive composition for laying tiles, the following factors take into account:

• The presence / absence of floor heating.
• Base type: Monolithic screed or collected from sheets on wood basis.
• Tile type: tile or porcelain stoneware.

Depending on these factors, the optimal composition is selected. In detail about the types of glue and nuances of choice for a specific surface and conditions, we spoke in.

Note! Each manufacturer of the tile in the instructions for laying its products leads to the adhesive types recommended for use. For optimal results, you need to follow these recommendations.

Methods of laying tile

During the floor cladding, 4 types of layout (drawing) are used:

Note! Selection of styling Each owner chooses independently, but for small bathrooms the optimal option is the usual straight or chess layout. Diagonal or artistic styling looks better in large rooms.

Preliminary layout

Before putting the tile on the glue, it is recommended to decompose on the dry surface of the base. This will allow:

• Decide with the optimal layout option.
• Vividly look at the final version of the appearance of the outdoor coating.
• If necessary, make adjustments.
• To understand where it is convenient to start laying on glue.

Important! The dry layout of the tile is made after leveling the base with cement screed, sheet materials or other available methods.

In the process of dry layout, the location of the tile series is marked. For markup, a marker or a construction pencil is used so that during the preparation of the base the line did not erase. Marking makes it easier to glue the tile and avoids skewing and leaving the straight line.

Consider some nuances how to make a straight (classic) layout of the tile most attractive:

1. It is calculated how many whole products are stacked in one row. One element is removed from this quantity, and the rest declined from the center.
2. At the edges near the styling walls, trimming are used, which, with this option, no less than half of the entire tile should be.

This scheme gives an increase in waste from trimming by 10-15%, but makes the distribution of tiles uniform, without small trimming in the corners, which significantly spoil the appearance of the coating.
Uniform distribution gives an attractive coating.

At the same time, the location of the plumbing should be taken into account. For example, if a bath or shower tray is installed, the laying is uniformly distributed between the free wall and the screen of the bath, and the trimming near the second wall closes after the installation of sanitary equipment.

More details with the secrets of the ceramic tile layout can be found in the video material.

Step-by-step technology laying

Now consider the phased order laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom.

Note! Floor finishing is always carried out last time when the wall facing is fully completed. This allows you to maintain a presentable type of floor covering, because when finishing the walls it can be easily damaged.

Preparation of the foundation

Preparation of a draft base for clamping ceramics includes the following steps:

1. Waterproofing base. This stage is carried out before the pouring of the wet screed or self-leveling mixtures so that the moisture from the solution is not left under the influence of gravity. Waterproofing is only needed so that moisture from the concrete does not spoil the repair of neighbors from the bottom, so it is not presented to the special requirements for it.
2. Alignment. The tile is recommended to be put on an even base with a maximum difference in height - no more than 1 cm for 1 traffic point meter. Laying tiles on a thick layer of glue is considered a violation of technology. On each bag, the maximum thickness of the layer is written to which the tile can be laid specifically to this glue.
3. Protecting the surface. The obligatory stage, which, in addition to reducing the absorbent characteristics of the base, increases the adhesion of the tile glue and allows you to take the surface.

More information about the level of alignment, applying methods and other nuances of flooring can be found in.

Required tools

To work on laying, the following tools will be required:

• Great spatula with teeth depth of 8 or 10 mm.
• Building level.
• Platecores or Bulgarian.
• Plastic remote crossing for uniform seam. The optimal width of the seam is 2-2.5 mm.
• Mixer, drill or perforator with a nozzle for the preparation of tiled glue.
• Rubber hammer to bother tile.

Cooking glue

When preparing a tile glue, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instruction, especially in the amount of water added, since not only the consistency, but also the physico-mechanical characteristics of the finished glue directly depends on this. Total technology and sequence of chry mixtures are as follows:

With proper consistency, glue has good mobility and plasticity, but it does not swim on the surface, and when the spatula is set on it.

Laying tiles

Floor tiles fit in the following order:

• Adhesive with a conventional spatula is applied with a solid layer on the base. In this case, the glue can be applied both for laying one tile and for a number of a number - depending on the experience of the wizard.

  Apply glue to the base.

• The applied layer of adhesive "is engaged" by a comb-spatula, which is kept at an angle of 45 ° to the base. The movements are performed in one direction so that the resulting grooves had the same direction.

  We pass the glue comb.

• Then the reverse side of the tile is slightly moisturized, moistened in the water with a sponge: it provides maximum adhesion with tiled glue.

  

• The next step - on the back side of the tile, is applied with a solid layer of glue, which is also smoothed by a comb. Here you need to comply with the rule: the glue lines on the base and tile are perpendicular to ensure that when they are connected, it is guaranteed to be obtained by a solid adhesive layer.

  Apply furrows perpendicular to each other.

• The tile is placed on the base and the vibration movements are pressed, if necessary, is lightly closed with a rubber hammer.
• The following tiles are fitted in a similar way with the installation between them remote liners and the constant control of the plane by the construction level.

  The process of laying ceramic flooring is constantly monitored by the level.

Note! When laying each tile, it is recommended to carefully examine that there are no chips on the front part. Such elements go on trimming.

Another nuance - on some types of tiles on the reverse side there is an arrow indicating the direction of laying. During the laying such a series, it is monitored that all the arrows are in one direction.

Setting whole tiles in a row, proceed to trimming to fill the entire row. To properly perform trimming, the whole element is applied to the remaining free plot near the wall and mark the cut line on both sides. Next, the tile cut the tile, and the desired segment is laid on the glue by ordinary technology.

After completing the first row, start to lay the second in compliance with the same technology and the priority of actions. During the installation of floor tiles, it is monitored to ensure that the glued elements do not occur and did not relieve. To do this, the laying is conducted towards the door. If there is no such possibility, the tile is mounted in several steps with the necessary intervals to set glue.

Shutkish seams

Not earlier than 24-48 hours after laying the last tile (depends on the type of glue and layer thickness). Filling of interputric seams is made by special mixtures - fugas on different bases. The grout solution is applied by a rubber spatula by pressing movements. For the grout of the seams of floor tiles, it is recommended to use waterproof fugues, basic types, the rules of the selection and features of the application in detail are considered in.

Common mistakes

In conclusion, consider some typical errors that are allowed during laying outdoor tiles:

If you put a tile on all the rules and avoid gross mistakes, such an outdoor coating is considered the most reliable and durable, because the quality tile is practically not engaged and does not change its appearance throughout the entire life.

Based on the specifics of the operation of the bathroom, it should be used for finishing materials with maximum resistance to the negative effects of external factors, such as temperature differences, moisture impact, frequent processing using chemicals. One of them is a ceramic tile, which, due to the combination of excellent performance and availability, is the best option for finishing the floor surface.

The segment of the market is capable of offering a wide range of ceramics products, so we will study the most important selection criteria.

Since in this case the tile is selected on the floor in the bathroom, then the most attention should be paid to:

• water absorption coefficient. This parameter indicates the density and strength of the product for compression, bending, and the like. What it is lower, the higher the product quality and longer service life.
• tile sizes. The thickness of the floor products varies from 8 to 20 mm. For home use is enough ceramics with a cross section of 8-12 mm. As for the width and length - here the choice is limited to only your preferences and dimensions of the bathroom. For small rooms, it is better to purchase finely or midformat tiles with a side size up to 40 cm. If you are new to you want to minimize the number of curved elements, ask consultants to choose your product for a length or width of your bathroom, better square shape. For example, for the side of 2.30 m, taking into account the interputric seams and compensatory gaps around the perimeter, the optimal dimensions of the floor tile are 32.7 * 32.7.

Despite the seeming simplicity of design, with the help of a single square tile, you can create a fairly aesthetic surface, which will meet all the necessary requirements.

As for the details of the color design of the material, it is necessary to take into account that light tones visually increase the space of the room, which is relevant when it is small. At the same time, if the work is performed for the first time, it does not need to choose the complex patterns of the decorative surface, and it is necessary to prefer with one-photon options.

One of the most significant characteristics of the floor tile is the stability of the surface to water and household chemicals. Therefore, do not trust advertising promises and purchase outdoor coating of a single firing with high-quality icing.

It should also be paid to the sliding resistance coefficient, denoted on the packaging of the R. Bathroom is one of the most traumatic premises and this is a fact. Therefore, for security, choose products with marking R10-R12.

Remember that all tile parameters are indicated on the box in the form of pictograms. Knowing their meaning, you will easily pick up the right one.

Tile marking.

Features of work

Before you begin to work, you need to decide on exactly what method of laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom will be used. The main differences here will be in the position of the tiles relative to each other, as well as the walls of the room. So, you can highlight:

There are also other laying methods: "Christmas tree", modular, with a shift, etc. To form such a picture, a rectangular ceramics is used. It is recommended for beginners to start strain on a square tile of medium sizes, from 15x15 to 33x33 mm. Accordingly, it will then let us go about laying outdoor products with a classic way, as the easiest performed for most beginner masters.

Among the features of working with ceramic tiles, it is worth mentioning that when styling it is inevitably the need for it:

• conditions for the formation of pipes of pipes, etc.
• fittings for the size of the room or during the selection of the drawing (Rapport).

Make this task may be in several ways. The simplest option is plastic. With it, it is possible to significantly speed up the work, improve the accuracy of the cut. Household models are inexpensive, and their service life is small, an alternative solution is a simple glass cutter. To the surface you need to mark the markup, attach a ruler and carry out the cutting edge of the tool 1-2 times. Then move the tile on the edge of the table and pressed sharply, boning unnecessary.

Important! Cutting Movements with glass cutter or stoveturosis should be made from the front side, otherwise this can lead to chopping part of the glaze.

Features of layout tile

Most often, the size of the room requires cutting tiles when laying. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate how many whole elements in the row. After that, remove one of them and distribute the resulting amount from the center to the edges. The remaining gaps between the walls and floor coverings are filled with wide tile trimming. The main idea here is that a piece of ceramics at the wall has a width more than half the whole element. In this case, the surface will look holistic and beautiful.

Proper tile distribution.

Laying

In order for laying outdoor tiles in the bathroom to be performed efficiently, work is carried out in several stages.

Surface preparation

The main condition for the successful performance of work on floor laying in the bathroom with their own hands is smooth, durable, dry and clean base.

For surface alignment, classical screed or bulk floors are used. Dry mixture is selected based on the state of the base. Industrial self-leveling composition can cope with insignificant irregularities, and with significant flaws they will have to perform a tie.

To save space under the bathroom may not be covered with tiles. In this case, we recommend buying comfortable decorative screens under PVC or LMDF bath (Metakam, Vitra, Alavann, etc.). Either make independently of wall plastic panels, painted plywood or chipboard. At the same time, not only the tile consumption will be reduced, but also the total time of work, because the bath will not need to dismantle and take it out. In this case, you can pour the space under the bathroom with a layer of mixtures to the level of the overall surface, and after drying, is primed and waterproof.

As for the waterproofing, the waterboard layer must be created on the entire floor of the bathroom. The market offers a large number of materials, from bitumen mastic to special rolled products. When applying a waterproofing tool, special attention should be paid to the installation places and plumbing. For the greatest efficiency, it is necessary to make a "intercessors" on the walls with a height of 20-30 cm.

Tip! If the budget allows, be sure to install the electronic system from water leaks. Fortunately in the market now they are represented by a great set. The system consists of a controller, a ball crane with electric drive and floor sensors, which are installed in the places of possible leaks. Together with waterproofing, such a system will give an almost complete warranty from accidents. At the same time, it is very desirable that the floor level in the bathroom was a pair of centimeters lower than the floor level in the corridor, to prevent even the minimum amount of water into adjacent rooms.

To align the surface, a classic screed can be performed or a self-leveling self-leveling mixture is used. You need to choose here, based on the state of the main surface. The bulk mixture will cope with minor irregularities, and in the case of more explicit flaws they will have to perform a tie.

Assessment of surface levels is carried out using a two-meter metal rules for a screed. The drops should not exceed 2 mm when using polymer glue and 4 mm when working with tiled cement-based tile glue. Small pits, cavities need to be filled with quick-drying repair mixtures, and huts to rush.

After drying the surface, it must be projected. This will increase the overall adhesion (grip) of surfaces, which will have a positive effect on the total strength of the surface.

Before priming, it is necessary to clean the floor from dirt, dust, garbage, paintwork residues, oil stains, bitumen, soot, glue. If the alignment was conducted, then the technological break should be withstanding: for a screed 28 days, a bulk sex - at least 7 days. After this period, the foundation must be treated with primer in 1-2 layers. This will increase the adhesion (clutch) of materials and improve the surface quality.

Montage tile

Tile must be placed and give time for acclimatization within 24 hours. Unpacking the material immediately undesirable.

Prepare glue. The dry mixture must be shown in accordance with the instructions on the package. The solution is better to prepare portions, since the term of its viability is small - from 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Beginning is most appropriate from the very "prominent" corner, and the first row is to build along the wall longest. Apply tile glue on the basis and distribute it with a narrow strip with a rotary spatula in a width of approximately 1 row of ceramics. Place the first tile, taking into account the compensation gap between the wall and the floor (7-10 mm), slightly move it and fix it. After installing the first two elements between them, put remote crossings to obtain even interputric seams.

To achieve the highest possible result, the laying can be used by special systems for aligning Russian or European production tiles.

If the size of the elements is more than 50x50, then the tile is placed by double gluing. That is, the adhesion composition is applied to the floor, and on the wrong side of the ceramics. This approach will ensure reliable fixation of the coverage and a long service life.

It is also important to pay attention to the correspondence of already glued tiles of a single horizon. For these purposes, the construction level is used when laying, which is applied to several adjacent tiles.

Important! The longer the level is, the more accurate its data will be. The size of the device must be enough to compare the level of three adjacent elements.

The main difficulties of beginner masters usually arise during the installation of the extreme row. Use whole elements in such cases is extremely rare, so the tile will need to cut off to the desired size. After that, the surface is left to drying the glue. Determine how much hissing tile on the floor will help instructions on the packaging of the composition. As a rule, the averaged data is indicated - 3-7 days. The higher the humidity of the air and below the temperature, the more drying time.

Shutkish seams

The final stage of the work is grouting seams. For these purposes, various compositions are used: cement, cement-polymer, polymeric sealing. Dry mixes are inducing with water and apply a rubber spatula on the joints. If the sealant is used, you will need a skeletal pistol, with which you can easily and quickly fill the seams.

After applying cement formulations, you need to wait 10-20 minutes and wash off the surplus with a wet pulp. If a whitish flask remained on the surface, it is removed the next day with an acid cleaner for a tile. Full use of sex is possible in 5-7 days after the end of work.

On this, the main stages of laying tiles on the floor of the bathroom can be considered completed. For the first time, a challenge challenge with such a need may seem complex. But in the presence of basic skills and desires such work is quite feasible with their own hands. This approach will help to avoid solid material spending, and the bathroom itself will become the subject of personal pride.

Tip! If you need repair masters, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the works that you need to perform and offers to you in the post office with prices from building brigades and firms. You can see the reviews about each of them and photos with examples of work. This is free and does not oblige anything.

Laying outdoor tiles on its own - the task is done, although not simple. Each stage, starting from the selection of the material, requires responsible relationship and attentiveness, otherwise it is impossible to achieve a qualitative result. The longest and time-consuming process is the preparation of the base, and the better the surface is prepared, the easier the laying of the tiles on the floor in the bathroom. The technology of the facing itself is not too complex, and if the instructions should be followed exactly, can be perfectly cope with even in the absence of experience.

The range of outdoor tiles is huge, and immediately choose is not so easy. Considering the samples, first of all, pay attention to the following characteristics:

• tile thickness;
• the presence of anti-slip coating;
• resistance to chemically aggressive impact;
• moisture resistance.

The optimal thickness of the floor tile is 9-12 mm, in shape and size it is best to choose a square tile 200h200 or 300x300 mm. There are many species of figure tiles, which looks very effectively and unusually, but high mastery is required for its laying. For the same reason, the newcomer should not choose the options that the complex drawing form when laying - here it will take a very accurate calculation for fitting the pattern, and with the lack of experience, it is not easy.

Newbies it is better to choose a classic tile in the shape of squares

The water absorption of the material should not exceed 4.5%, the friction coefficient, on the contrary, should be maximum - from 0.75. Such a tile remains safe after entering it water, which happens very often in the bathroom. Information about specifications is always present on the package, so when you select Carefully learn the data.

And do not buy a tile if the seller cannot provide a quality certificate - all product trustworthy products are certified.

bathroom tile

In addition to the tile, you will need to purchase glue, materials for waterproofing, grouting for seams. Glue is best to take on a cement basis: it is relatively inexpensive, easily applied, provides excellent tile grip with a base and no moisture is afraid. Popular options - Ceresit CM 11, Unis Plus, Weber Vetonit Ultra Fix.

Waterproofing is the most convenient to use the cooler (for example, Perfekta Aquastop), plastering (Ceresit CR-65, Knauf Flachendicht) or impregnating (penetron). These compositions are easily applied and formed reliable protection against moisture penetration.

As for the grout, here you need to choose between cement and epoxy mixtures. Cement is cheaper, more convenient in applying, for a beginner master is the optimal option. Epoxy compositions are more durable and durable, but it is more difficult to work with them.

tile grout moisture resistant

Floor preparation

Laying the tiles should be made to the maximum smooth durable base. You can not leave cracks, chips, potholes and other defects, otherwise very soon a new coating will come into disrepair. First of all, you should carefully examine the floor and determine the degree of its irregularities. To do this, it is necessary to apply to the bottom of the construction level in several places and measure the line of lumen width under the tool. If deviations do not exceed 5 mm, the additional alignment is not required - all irregularities will hide the adhesive solution. In this case, the surface is simply purified from dust and thoroughly ground.

If the differences in height are large, you need to visually determine the highest point of the floor and make the markup around the perimeter of the room for filling the screed. Marking is necessarily performed using a level, otherwise the floor may turn out under a slope. Next, the beacons from the profile and pour cement-sandy solution. It is necessary to dry out the screed, on average, about a month, and until it fails to completely dry, it is impossible to start the finish. If the tile is put on a raw base, it will very soon begin to lag behind and can even burst under load, so it is better not to risk.

After drying, it is necessary to perform waterproofing. The protective composition is applied with a roller or brush to the surface of the floor, capturing and walls for several centimeters. Corners and joints should be developed especially carefully. By the way, many masters do not use waterproofing, but prefer to treat a dried screed of 1-2 times with primer deep penetration. For the usual operation of the bathroom, this is quite enough, but in the case of flooding, water will easily overcome such a barrier and flows through overlaps to neighbors.

Video - waterproofing floor in the bathroom with their own hands

Selecting the method of laying

Before entering the facing, you need to pick up the optimal method of laying:

• traditional - tile is located smooth rows both horizontally and vertically. This option is the most common and simplest for beginner. Tile is used, as a rule, square, although this method can be applied for rectangular tiles;
• diagonal - Laying is made with smooth rows, but according to the diagonal axes of the base. Such a coating looks attractively, but the laying takes more time on trimming and fitting elements, moreover, more accurate calculations are needed;
• with a displacement - installation is performed according to the principle of brickwork, that is, in each horizontal row of tiles shifted half of its width. Suitable for square and rectangular elements. The displacement laying can be carried out diagonally;
• laying "Christmas tree" - performed by type of parquet, suitable for rectangular tiles. This method requires a lot of time, accurate calculation and skill;
• modular - cladding is performed by tiles of different size of the square and rectangular shape. For masonry, it is necessary to carefully select a drawing and make an accurate scheme with an indication of the size of the elements and seams. The method is spectacular, but labor-intensive, requiring certain experience and skill;
• with a shift - when laying, each tile shifts a bit vertically and horizontally simultaneously, and the resulting gaps are closed with a smaller tile. It looks very attractive, but requires an accurate fit of the elements and a lot of time.

If the experience of such works is not quite, it is best to choose a traditional way - so you will save time and minimize the consumption of material on trimming. But, despite the simplicity, trying to still try: on such a coating, all the defects of the seams are perfectly visible, so when laying, maximum accuracy and attention should be displayed.

Tile laying technology

So, we have a smooth, dry base for lining. You can proceed directly to laying tiles to the floor, and how to do it, consider the most detailed way.

For work it will be necessary:

• construction mixer;
• two spatula - ordinary and gear (with a teeth height of 8-10 mm);
• rubber hammer;
• long bubble level;
• plastic crosses for seams with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm;
• platecores or Bulgarian.

Step 1. The tile is laid out without glue on the floor to select the most optimal location and check the density of the fit in the corners.

For example, if the angles are uneven, the tile will have to be cut, which will require additional effort and time. In a different way, such a defect cannot be corrected, therefore it should be taken care of the correctness of the angles at the stage of alignment of the walls.

If the last tile does not fully fit completely, it is better to move the tiles in such a way that the same distance remains with both sides, and when laying it to cut both extreme elements. So the facing will look much more aesthetically. Deciding with the location of the material, the extreme tile will be powered by a pencil along the contour - laying on this markup and starts.

Step 2. The surface of the floor is treated with waterproof soil with additives against mold. Soil can be applied with a wide brush or roller, the main thing is that there are no missing spaces. After that, you need to wait that the base is dried.

Step 3. Cleaning solution is prepared: dry glue is peeling into a bucket with water temperature and stir up to homogeneity with a mixer at low revs. If you interfere with high speed, a lot of air bubbles are formed in the solution, which will be addressed to the weakening of the adhesive layer and its shrinkage. They interfere with a couple of minutes, then give a solution to stand for 5 minutes, mix again. The exact proportions of water and dry mix are shown on the package, so carefully read the instructions before starting work.

Step 4. Pick up the glue by a regular spatula and apply a thick layer to the floor, without going beyond the markup line. The application area should correspond to the size of one tile. Running the solution, take a toothed spatula and carry out the glue so that deep grooves are formed. The movements are performed only in one direction so that all the grooves are parallel.

Step 5.. Take the first tile, moisturized with water, and the glue is also applied to her back side. After spending a toothed spatula, put the tile so that the grooves intersect at right angles. This installation provides the best clutch and makes it easy to overlap small irregularities. The side edges of the tile must definitely coincide with the markup lines, and one side to fit tightly to the wall or the bath screen. The material is tightly pressed to the floor, after which the bubble level is applied and check the horizontal. If necessary, the tile is corrected with a rubber hammer.

Council. Usually from the back side of the tile there is an imprint of the arrow indicating the direction of the masonry. Even if the pattern on the front surface is difficult to distinguishable, chaotic, it is always necessary to place the tile so that the arrow is directed in one direction - this will avoid distortion of the pattern and give cladding a neat appearance.

Step 6. Again the solution is applied, this time you can immediately for several elements, roll up and dispersed with a toothed spatula in one direction. Take the following tile, wet sponge moisturized from the back side, covered with glue. Applying it to the surface, plastic crosses are inserted at the junction to ensure a uniform seam. Pressed, align horizontally. The level now needs to be attached immediately to both tiles at several points so that the differences in height are not formed between them.

Step 7. In the same way, all the other whole tiles are placed, and then fasten the cut. In order to properly cut the material, the whole tile is applied to the remaining section of the floor between the wall and cladding, and the cut line is planned. Next, with the help of stoveturis or grinders, it is cut off too much and put a fragment on glue.

Council. Before applying glue, carefully inspect the edges of the tiles: if they have chipsets, such elements are better to put on trimming for corners and hard-to-reach places. In the open plot, these defects will rush into the eyes and spoil the whole look.

Step 8. Putting the first row, proceed to the second, observing the same thickness of the seams and constantly controlling the level of the horizontal coating. When laying, you need to move from a long wall to the doors so that in the process of work, do not step on the already glued tiles. It is very important to monitor the information of the corners, for convenience you can put an additional cross on the intersection of seams. It is unacceptable that in the corners formed the differences in height - constantly check these sections with the level.

Step 9. Having completed the laying, leave the room for a day so that the glue turns well. After this time, crosses are neatly removed and the surplus of the solution remaining in the seams is removed.

Step 10. After that, you can begin the grout of intercutric seams - fugging. The drain mixture is applied with a rubber spatula: a small amount of grout is gaining and distributed along the length of the seam, thoroughly rubbing the mixture into the recess. It is necessary to work slowly, evenly filling the emptiness and removing the excess mixture. In addition to the seams, the stakes are treated with the joke around the perimeter of sewage outputs.

Step 11. After 10-15 minutes after applying the grouts, the processed seams should be wiped with a wet sponge to wash off the residues of the mixture. You should not allow the solution to dry out, otherwise it will be much more complicated from the facing surface. When cleaning the coating, the sponge must be rinsed as often as possible, and the water is changed, otherwise there will remain white divorces and strips on the tile.

Video - Grouting seams tile

After about two weeks, the seams can be additionally protected by waterproof, which is applied over the grout. On this floor decoration is considered complete, and if everything is executed according to the rules, the coating will serve for years, while maintaining the original appearance.

Video - laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom