How to make a rough floor. How to make a wooden subfloor on the ground. Wooden sub-floor: structure

When creating a project and the subsequent construction of a private house, the question of what a sub-floor is needed for seems to be of secondary importance. But both designers and builders should still ask it. And assess whether it is worth spending money on it, and in what case.

What is a sub-floor?

The simplest definition of a subfloor can be formulated as follows: it is the base on which the flooring is laid - from laminate to parquet and linoleum. The main purpose of such a subfloor is to level the surface so that the coating does not repeat unevenness and looks perfectly smooth. Typically, this leveling is required for floors in multi-storey apartments.

But the sub floor is also called the base under the insulated floor, it is insulated, but not heated. Such a base is also called a slab. It is created so that in private houses, especially on the lower floors, the floor, which does not use a heating system, is naturally warm. Such an insulated floor will help to save about 20 percent of heat.

It makes sense to consider both subspecies of the subfloor.

The subfloor is laid on the supports. Lags can be stacked on a screed. But first you need to lay the waterproofing layer. Insulation is laid between the lags, in height it should be the same as the beams. One of the most modern floor insulation materials is ecowool or mineral wool, or other insulation. Also, foam, polystyrene or expanded clay can be used as an insulating layer. Wooden elements are treated with an antiseptic so that insects and fungi do not spoil the sub floor. The ventilation of the subfloor is also a very important factor, so the boards are not nailed to the floor, thus they can be minimally deformed under the influence of moisture from the basement, but the subfloor will not suffer from this.

A vapor barrier is laid on the insulation. If the foil-insolon material is used, which is laid with a foil layer upward, then this technology helps to retain heat.

The finished floor is laid on top of the insulation, but it is imperative to maintain a gap between the insulation and the flooring of at least one or two centimeters.

The technology of arranging an insulated subfloor, with all its apparent simplicity, requires knowledge of technology and practical experience. In addition, it is the professionals in this industry who will be able to determine for a specific project what a sub-floor is needed for, namely insulated, and whether it is needed at all. It is believed that in houses built in a warm climate, you can do without it, but where the temperature, especially in winter, is low, it will be needed.

Leveling sub-floor.

It's no secret that new buildings are usually rented out only with a rough screed on the floor, and after buying an apartment, the owners think about how to make the floor as even as possible. Approximately the same is done with ceilings, making them stretch. But when leveling both the top and the bottom into the premises, pay attention to how many centimeters will be "stolen" from its height. If, in the end result, the height approaches two and a half meters, this is already a critical boundary.

As in the case of an insulated floor, when leveling, everything starts with a log, and boards or plywood, as well as fiberboard or chipboard about thirty millimeters thick, are already laid on them.

Sometimes in an apartment during repair or redevelopment, you have to transfer communications. Such actions are also performed using a subfloor. Piping or wiring is located between the finish and subfloor. Again, the height of the room should be taken into account in order not to further reduce it.

Any coating on a flat floor will look great, at the same time, even the most expensive coating will not hide irregularities, furniture that will stand on a crooked floor will deform over time, and walking on such a floor is completely inconvenient.

The cost of the subfloor.

The total cost of the subfloor will be calculated based on the cost of the material, the work will cost exactly the same. Therefore, the more expensive the materials for the subfloor, the more expensive the work, and hence the total cost of the subfloor. Of course, the goal will also matter - leveling or insulation - depending on this, different materials and different technologies are used. Prices can vary from 120 to 1000 and more rubles per square meter.

Based on the foregoing, discuss in detail with the designers, builders, craftsmen what a rough floor is for and whether it is needed in your particular case. If professionals believe that you cannot do without it - listen, and if they say that the subfloor will be an extra "burden" of the budget, refuse.

Before you start laying the finishing coat, you need to take care of the rough one. In no case should this rule be neglected, because otherwise you risk all your repairs. Alteration of the flooring and the floors themselves will require even more effort, cost and time. In addition, such a complex event can damage the entire interior of an apartment or house. So experts recommend that one time come to grips with the issue of the rough floor and forget about it for many years.

There are two main ways to create a subfloor, which are categorized according to the method and materials used: wet and dry. For wet, concrete or concrete-claydite is used, and for dry - installation on logs.

DIY concrete sub-floor

This option is especially popular in standard city apartments, but if desired, it can also be used to equip a private house. The only question is the foundation.

First you need to create quality waterproofing. This can be done using a special high-strength film. If we are talking about repairs in an apartment on the second and higher floors, we recommend that you pay special attention to insulation. Your manipulations with the floor can cause leaks and affect the repair of neighbors below. So be very careful when editing the film. Along the perimeter of the apartment, it must be supplemented with a penoflex 0.5 - 1 centimeter thick.

The next layer of the subfloor is responsible for the thermal insulation of the room. Previously, expanded polystyrene was predominantly used as a material, but recently, penofol, consisting of two layers at once with very good characteristics, is gaining popularity. The foil layer reflects heat and does not allow it to leave the room, and the polyethylene foam itself is responsible for thermal insulation. Whichever material you choose, it must also be covered with a layer of waterproofing film.

The next important stage is the very filling of the floor with concrete or concrete-claydite. But you can't just pour the solution onto the future rough floor. The thing is that this layer will not be able to align itself. That is why, before pouring, special beacons are installed, which will become the basis for leveling the floor. All beacons must be level. Only in this case can you get a beautiful and even subfloor as a result.

If you want to increase noise insulation, as well as thermal insulation, then pay attention to concrete-claydite. This material has excellent properties and bypasses conventional concrete in many respects.

After mixing the solution and distributing it on the floor, carefully level it using the rule, placing the tool on the beacons. Remove excess mortar, then leave the coating to dry completely. Your subfloor is ready.

DIY wooden sub-floor

To make a subfloor out of wood, you will need some kind of base. If there is already concrete in the house, then logs can also be laid on it. Just make sure that the concrete screed is level and has no elevation differences. Otherwise, your floor will be crooked and squeaky. Experts do not recommend using wooden blocks as a support for logs in recessed areas. The problem is that over time, the tree will shrink, and the logs will lose their stability. And your floors will sag and squeak.

To avoid this, you need to carefully consider the preparatory stage. So, for starters, the concrete base is leveled with a small layer of screed. The amount of solution is determined by the difference in height in the room. After that, we leave the resulting base until the solution is completely dry.

The next item is laying a waterproofing film, all joints of which must be glued with tape. On top of it, in the place where the logs will be laid, we lay a special soundproofing layer. Usually, polyethylene foam or cork material is used. Without this layer, the floors in your home will make extraneous sounds with every step.

Now it's time to tackle the lags. But for this you need a bar. Professionals recommend not to save on logs and use high quality edged boards. Installation will take you much less time and effort, and the rough floor with your own hands will turn out much more spectacular and faster. To install the sub-floor, you will also need a 25 mm x 100 mm edged board. It can be used not only for the installation of logs, but also for the installation of roof lathing and other general construction work.

The logs themselves are installed on a pre-prepared base so that the layer of soundproofing lining is strictly under them. The height and slope of the logs must be checked with a level.

Now they need to be attached to the base of the floor using corners so that the logs do not move anywhere and serve as the basis for the next layer.

As soon as all the logs are firmly fixed, insulation is laid between them. In no case should it enter the lags themselves, only take up all the free space between them.

On top of the logs, a floorboard or plywood is laid. This is how the subfloor itself will look. Working with plywood is much easier, but it has a certain drawback - a relatively high price. A floorboard of the same quality will be cheaper, but installation will require more effort and more time.

The thickness of the plywood sheet should be at least 22 millimeters, since otherwise your subfloor will bend under the weight of a person. In addition, the distribution of furniture in an apartment or house can cause a change in the relief of the subfloor. Experts recommend using plywood of increased thickness if you plan to put heavy objects in the room: a wardrobe, refrigerator, sideboard with a lot of dishes, etc.

Plywood sheets should be staggered to prevent joints from lining up. Screw the plywood to the joists using self-tapping screws, not forgetting about 2-3 centimeters of space from the wall for shrinkage and ventilation.

The construction of a wooden house is initially a choice in favor of environmentally friendly materials. When erecting a wooden house, an important issue is the equipment of a warm and even floor, which will contribute to natural air exchange and maintain a favorable microclimate in the premises. How can you make a floor in a wooden house with your own hands so that it meets all the qualities of a reliable coating and lasts a long time, while maintaining an attractive appearance?

Installation Basics

All possible floor options suitable for a wooden house are divided into two types: plank and concrete. Wooden floors are similar in structure to a layer cake of several components:

• Subfloor, insulation (thermal insulation, waterproofing);
• Finishing floor, directly the floor covering.

If a construction is required, all heating elements and cables must be additionally laid between the layers.

The floor in a wooden house can be erected on logs or on poles. The latter method is used when the structure is built without a concrete foundation. With a monolithic foundation, everything is much easier, but if for some reason you do not have time to pour a concrete base, then you will have to use one of the options for laying the floor on beams. Either beams inserted into the walls (span width 4 m) or beams with support pillars that look like a columnar foundation are used.

What are the floors in a wooden house, you can see in the photos taken during the repair work. By the type of construction, single-layer and double-layer floors are distinguished. The covering in one layer is installed on logs or without them - this is directly determined by the thickness of the boards and the step between the beams. If the spacing between the girders does not exceed 60 cm, then when building a house from the board, you can put it on the beams themselves.

When constructing a two-layer floor, a sub-floor is additionally mounted. What it is? The subfloor can be considered the basis for the finishing layer. Insulation is placed on the draft layer attached to the underside of the beams. An expanded clay layer 8 cm high is suitable for this role.For complete insulation of the floor, an aggregate is placed in the space between the rough and finishing layers, while leaving a gap of at least 2 cm to ensure air circulation.

The floor, concrete or wooden, which is being built in the house with your own hands, needs. Among modern heaters, mineral mats and mineral wool, polyurethane are most often used. The desire to insulate the floor as much as possible must comply with construction standards. Do not install a thick layer of insulation that fills the entire distance between the rough and finish layers. A gap of a couple of centimeters must be required.

The floors in a wooden house must be of high durability and must also be well ventilated. For this, a rough layer is made. Erection of rough floors in a wooden house is considered a necessity for several reasons. Firstly, they provide a frame of rigidity and serve as the basis for insulation, insulation and flooring of the finishing layer. They also create an air gap, which ensures the preservation of heat inside the building, excludes the processes of decay of boards and distortion of the house. All this ensures the preservation and durability of the entire floor covering.

Rough layer device

The choice of the option for erecting a rough floor with your own hands is determined by the type of base, formed during the construction of the house itself. The draft layer can be installed both on floors in the form of reinforced concrete slabs or beams, and on the ground. In any case, preparatory work is required first.

The preparatory stage before the installation of the subfloor includes the device of ventilation holes in the walls of the building, which are decorated with decorative grilles from the outside. All wooden structures, including the walls of the log house, must be treated with an antiseptic without fail.

The calculation and purchase of materials for the draft layer is made based on the available base for its laying. If the floor is laid on the ground, then a double sub-flooring structure must be used. Initially, the logs are installed on supports (bricks can be used), small pieces of board are laid on them as a shock absorber, and only then the bars and logs are laid. Each stage of work must be accompanied by constant monitoring of the level of the horizon so that the mounted floor does not have a slope.

Materials used for subfloors in a wooden house usually require additional processing. Logs and timber are pre-planed or cut on the machine, removing bevels and slopes. Ideally, they should be completely flat. Before installation, all parts are treated with antiseptic preparations to exclude the formation of fungus and premature destruction of the tree.

A rough floor in a wooden house is assembled from the following materials:

• Brick - pillars with parameters 40x40x20 cm are made from it, which are placed on a cement mortar;
• Waterproofing material - for this, choose dense polyethylene or other similar material that can prevent the rotting of the lag;
• Boards or plywood - used directly for subfloor layers (the first layer can be made from boards, the second - from plywood);
• Corners and bolts (metal) - logs are attached to them to brick pillars;
• Insulation - laid along with another layer of waterproofing on the bottom layer of the subfloor.

The amount of all materials is calculated based on the area of ​​the building and the parameters of the installed lags.

Installation of the subfloor

How to make a floor in a wooden house yourself? You should start with the installation of the rough part. Lags must be installed if the beams are initially fixed along the walls of the log house, the reason for this is the large distance between the beams themselves. To give the future floor rigidity, brick supports are installed in advance under the logs.

Fixing the lag is the most important stage in the construction of the floor. The quality of the future flooring will depend on the quality of the work performed. It is best to attach the logs to the foundation. To do this, first around the entire perimeter, a strapping is made of long boards, and then the lags themselves are attached to it with metal corners or bolts.

At this stage of the installation of subfloors in a wooden house, it is required to retreat 2 cm from each wall. All the resulting cracks are laid with insulation. Rigid fastening of the lags at this moment is not required, they must be fixed so that there is no displacement during operation.

This method is used when the distance of the support of the log exceeds 10 cm, if this distance is less, then the logs are also installed, but a bar is additionally placed on top, which is fixed in the walls of the house. The places where the timber connects to the wall of the log house is measured, after which an incision is made in accordance with the dimensions, adding 2 cm to the expansion of the tree from moisture.

When the lags are in place, you can attach the cranial bars, which are smaller in size than the lags. The bars are attached to the side at the bottom of the log. Then boards are placed on them, which are not fixed. This type of flooring allows the tree to expand naturally.

Subject to the technology of laying the subfloor, even if the wooden elements expand from moisture, the structure will not be damaged.

After laying the first layer of subfloors with your own hands, the insulation flooring is carried out. First, waterproofing is laid on the entire surface of the floor, which is fixed to the walls. The width of its layer on the wall should be equal to the height of the entire floor structure up to the final finish. It is recommended to fix the waterproofing above this level, and then just cut off the excess. The joints of the material are fastened with a construction stapler.

All laid layers are covered with a vapor barrier, which is also attached to the walls of the log house. The joints of the material are glued with tape, and its fastening is carried out with a construction stapler. If the insulation was laid so that the ventilation gap remained, then after the installation of the vapor barrier is completed, you can proceed to the flooring of the second layer of the subfloor. If the insulation was laid at the lag level, then first you need to place special slats on the sides - they will press down on the insulation so that the necessary gap is formed. Detailed guidance on how to install a floor in a typical wooden house can be found in the various video tutorials.

The flooring of the second layer of subfloor made of boards or plywood is done in the same way as the joists were fixed. 2 cm also recede from the walls, insulation is placed in the resulting gaps.

Installation of the finished floor

After the subfloor in the wooden house is installed, you can proceed to the arrangement of the finishing layer. It is recommended to use milled planks for laying the finished floor. This floor layer is laid up to 5 cm from the subfloor.

To carry out the work, boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm are taken, made with a tongue-and-groove connection - such a connection facilitates installation and guarantees the reliability of floor laying. In the boards on the reverse side, special recesses are initially made - air vents, which provide free air exchange under the covering. For a finished floor, other types of boards are also suitable: grooved with a rebate or with a trapezoidal or straight segment tenon. It is more difficult to assemble a finished floor from such boards in a wooden house, because they do not have a breath on the back side, and their backs are not processed, as a result of which they will loosely adhere to the logs.

A floor installed from such material will be less reliable. The most difficult option in terms of labor costs is considered to be the installation of a finishing coating from an unedged board. In this case, it is best to take the time to process the front sides of the material.

Finishing floor boards are laid on logs, they must be placed in annual layers in different directions, this will make your floor even, strong and durable. Fiberboard sheets are often used for the finishing floor. In this case, the space between the walls and the floor will have to be covered with a rail.

The skirting boards are joined at right angles, then they are cut along the length and corners and connected at an angle of 45 degrees. They are nailed to the walls with nails at a distance of 70 cm, the joints are additionally attached.

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After the completion of all work on the installation of the rough and final floor, you can gradually engage in finishing. The final finishing of the floor in a wooden house can be done in different ways. For a wooden house, it would be logical to choose a floor covering from the same material. In this case, you have three flooring options: parquet, parquet board or laminate.

Parquet flooring is called not only the most respectable, but also one of the most durable. Parquet elements are attached to the base of the floor with glue, if necessary, they are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. After the work on laying the parquet, it is covered with a special varnish, for the greatest protection against abrasion, the varnish can be applied not in one layer, but in several. Competent installation of parquet flooring guarantees its operation for 20 years.

Parquet board is a kind of parquet, but it is not made of solid wood. This is a special construction of three layers, the top of which is a veneer of precious wood, treated with varnish. Such a board is easier to mount, and if necessary, it is much easier to dismantle.

The third option for finishing the floor for a wooden house is a laminate with a wood-like pattern. It is based on a fiberboard panel, protected from below by moisture-resistant paper. Above the MDF panel there is a decorative paper imitating a wood pattern, which is covered with acrylate resin on top. Laminate flooring is the most budget-friendly flooring option of all of the above.

The concept of "rough floor" hides not just poorly processed boards, but a real "pie" of various materials, which together form a solid foundation for a finished floor. By the way, the subfloor does not have to be wooden; it can also be a concrete screed on the ground. The technology for arranging the subfloor includes a set of measures that provide hydro, heat and noise insulation of the base. In this article, we will look at how you can make a solid and reliable subfloor, on which you can lay any finishing coating.

How to make a wooden sub-floor on the ground

In a country house, arranging the floor is a responsible and laborious task. Wooden flooring on the ground can be done without restrictions. Even if you temporarily live in the house, when the heating is not working, the wooden floor serves for a long time without changes, since the underground is well ventilated through the vents in the foundation.

For wooden elements of the floor structure, it is necessary to select high-quality dried wood with a moisture content of no more than 12%. This is important, as a damp tree can "lead" during operation. For the rough floor in the house, conifers are chosen - spruce, pine, fir, larch. Resin-rich wood is less susceptible to rotting and the development of mold.

Also, wood for logs and subfloors must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

The underground wooden floor on the joists should be well ventilated. For this, air vents are made in the foundation, which are covered with a mesh with a cell of no more than 8 mm, so that mice do not get inside.

Base for wood floor

The construction of a wooden floor on the ground assumes that the floorboards will be laid on logs - longitudinal beams. Depending on the characteristics of the house, the logs can be laid on the support beams, a crown or on the support posts.

If the room is large enough, it will not be enough to fix the logs only with the ends on the beams, the structure will turn out to be fragile. Therefore, in the intervals between the walls, support posts are installed on which the logs will be laid. The step between the posts depends on the section of the lag. For example, if a 150x150 mm timber will be used as a lag, then the distance between the support posts should be no more than 80 cm.

How to make support pillars for logs:

• First, we make the markup where the lags will be located. We make notes on the support beams or the foundation of the house. Then we pull the cords through the entire underground. We pull the cords across the future lags at a distance of 80 cm or any other that is equal to the step between the posts. Support pillars will be located at the intersection of cords or ropes.

• In the places where we will make the support pillars, we dig a hole 40-60 cm deep, with sides of 40 cm.
• At the bottom of the pit we tamp the soil, pour a 10 cm layer of sand, and then 10 cm of crushed stone. We carefully tamp each layer in turn. This will be our filling for the foundation of the column.
• We install a wooden formwork in the pit for pouring the foundation under a concrete post. If the supporting posts will be made of bricks, then the height of the foundation should be such that it rises 5-10 cm above the ground level. If the entire support post will be cast from concrete, then the height of the formwork should be such that the logs laid on the post are located horizontally.
• We insert a reinforcing frame inside the formwork, connected from steel rods of 6 - 8 mm in cross section.
• Pour concrete.

Important! If the entire column is poured from concrete, then it is necessary to control that the surface of the column is exactly horizontal and that all the columns are at the same level.

• After the concrete has completely dried, we cover the surface of the column with roofing material or glass insulation in 2 - 3 layers. Necessarily without sprinkling. We coat the surface and joints with mastic.

If you want to make support posts from bricks, then the masonry must be fastened with cement mortar. For a column with a height of less than 25 cm, the masonry should be 1.5 bricks, for a higher column, 2 bricks will be required.

After the concrete has dried, the formwork can be removed. For greater reliability, it is better to remove fertile soil from the underground. It must be removed to a depth of 20 cm. Instead of soil, it is advisable to add 10 cm of gravel and 10 cm of sand and carefully tamp with a vibrating plate.

Before starting the arrangement of the base, it is necessary to treat the beams, logs and boards of the subfloor with an antiseptic. The logs can be laid directly on the crown or foundation and on the supporting posts, or you can first install the supporting beams on the posts, and the logs from above across. Either option is correct. Only laying the logs across the beams provides a more stable and durable structure if the distance between the logs is very small, 40 - 60 cm.

The section of the lag must be selected taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating material that will fit between them. For example, if the thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, then it is necessary to take a beam with a height of 180 mm. Always leave a ventilation gap of 30 mm.

The step between the lags is selected taking into account the thickness of the boards of the future floor. More precise instructions can be found in the table below.

Table 1. Step lag.

Consider laying a lag on support posts:

• We lay the logs on the foundation crown (support beams, foundation) and support posts. We control their even arrangement, horizontal. A sound absorbing material can be placed on the surface of the support posts under the logs. But this is not necessary, since roofing material or other waterproofing material that covers the surface of the pillar springs well and hides sounds.
• If, nevertheless, a sagging of the lag is noticed somewhere, it is necessary to put wooden blocks on the support posts under the lags and fix them firmly. If the beam sticks out somewhere, then it can be cut off with a plane.

Important! The maximum permissible deviation in the evenness of the location of the lag is 1 mm per 1 m.

• We fix the logs to the support pillars using fixing angles. From the side of the wood, we fix it with self-tapping screws 50 mm long, and from the side of the concrete column, we twist the anchor.
• The first to lay the so-called "lighthouse logs", which are located at a distance of 2 m from each other. Further, we will be guided by them.
• By analogy, we put all the logs and check their even location.

After all the logs are fixed, you can start arranging heat and waterproofing.

Thermal insulation and waterproofing of a wooden floor

Waterproofing and thermal insulation materials are placed between the logs. To fix them, you need to equip the base. This can be done in several ways.

Method 1. From the bottom of the lag, you can nail sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. This design will be as reliable as possible. To do this, you will have to work from the underground, which is not always possible.

Method 2. In the lower part of the log, you can nail cranial bars with a thickness of 20 mm, and roll from the boards from above. This work is more painstaking, since you will have to cut a lot of boards with a section of 15 mm and a length equal to the step between the logs.

You can choose the method that you like best. The main thing is to get a fairly solid foundation.

• We lay a layer of waterproofing with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm, glue the joints with construction tape.

Important! Be sure to use a superdiffusion vapor-permeable membrane. We need the waterproofing material to release moisture from the room, but not let it inside from the side of the underground. Therefore, you cannot use ordinary plastic wrap.

• On top of the film, between the lags, we lay a heat-insulating material. We cut the rolled material with a width equal to the step between the lags, plus 1 - 2 cm, so that the material fits into the gap between the lags.

Important! As a heater for a wooden floor, you can use mineral wool in rolls, slabs, basalt wool, you can blow out ecowool, sawdust. Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam must not be used. These materials are completely vapor tight, the wooden floor simply cannot breathe.

A ventilation gap of 2 - 3 cm must be left on top of the insulation.

Sub-floor laying

The subfloor can now be laid in the house. There are several options for arranging rough flooring. As a material, you can use a floorboard with a thickness of 15 - 25 mm with minimal processing. You can also use a tongue-and-groove floorboard if finances permit. For subfloors, the price depends on the cost of the materials used. If you use a thick solid plank, then there is no point in laying a subfloor from a floorboard. Or you can lay sheets of plywood, and on top you can lay the finishing flooring.

Subfloor from floorboard:

• We start laying from the wall. Cut off the spike and attach the board to the wall, leaving a 2 cm gap.

Important! The distance from the walls is required, since wood is a plastic material, gaining moisture, expands, and dries up, shrinks. The gap will provide an unhindered opportunity for the wood to expand and shrink.

• We fix the board to the logs. From the side of the wall, screw the screws directly into the board, then this place will be hidden by the baseboard.
• From the side of the thorn, we screw the screws into the thorn at an angle of 45 degrees.
• We move the next board close to the first. We insert into the groove of the first board.
• We screw a self-tapping screw into the groove of the second board, fixing it to the log.
• All subsequent boards are laid by analogy.

Important! If the boards are the same length as the room, then they can be laid exactly parallel to each other. If the boards are shorter than the room, then they must be stacked with an offset - apart.

The last board is fixed so that you can hide the caps of the screws under the skirting board. On this, the rough floor is ready. The main thing is to tightly fit the boards to each other. You can lay a floor covering on top.

How to make a wooden sub-floor on a concrete base

In apartments with concrete floors, you can also make a wooden floor. The logs are laid on a concrete base, but for this it must be flat. A height difference of several centimeters is unacceptable. Therefore, the option when wooden blocks are placed under the bending logs is not suitable. Over time, the linings will dry out and deform, from which they can easily fly out and the floor will begin to creak.

Substrate preparation: hydro and sound insulation

Before laying the logs on the concrete floor, the base must be leveled. To do this, fill in a cement-sand screed. Further work can be continued only after the concrete has completely dried, i.e. a month later.

On the surface of the concrete screed, we lay a waterproofing film with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm, glue the joints with tape.

We put noise-insulating pads under the logs. For this, you can use cork materials or polyethylene foam with a thickness of 1 - 4 mm. The lining under the logs is needed in order to dampen the impact noise.

Laying logs on concrete

It is advisable to use a bar with a length equal to the length of the room. If this is not possible, then you can take a shorter bar and connect it to the end. In this case, the joints should be staggered.

• We lay the logs on the prepared base.
• We check the horizontal position of the lag.
• We fix the logs to the floor using corners. Do not forget that the corners themselves are attached to the concrete floor with anchors.
• After laying and securing all the logs, we lay the insulation between the logs in the same way as in the case of the floor on the ground.

Do not forget to leave a ventilation gap of 2 - 3 cm.

Installation of the subfloor

On top of the lag we lay a rough floor. As mentioned above, it can be plywood, or maybe a floorboard.

Consider the option of arranging a subfloor made of plywood:

• We take a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 22 mm.
• We lay a sheet of plywood on the logs and fix it to them with self-tapping screws in increments of 15 cm.
• We arrange the plywood sheets in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, some of them will have to be cut.
• It is impossible that the joints of the plywood sheets are in one line.

Do not forget that there should be a gap of 2 - 3 cm between the wall and the subfloor. On top of the plywood base, you can lay the following floor coverings: laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles, vinyl tiles, parquet, parquet board, solid board.

Installation of rough concrete floors on the ground

It is not always possible to pour a concrete floor in a private house on the ground. There are certain restrictions. Firstly, the groundwater at the site must be low enough - at the level of 4 - 5 m. Secondly, the soil must be stable, not mobile, otherwise the concrete floor may collapse. Thirdly, people must live in the house, or it would even be more correct to say that it must be heated during the cold season. If all conditions are met, you can safely pour a concrete slab over the ground.

Excavation and foundation preparation

First of all, it is necessary to outline the "zero" mark - the level of the future floor. You need to navigate along the bottom of the doorway. All walls must be marked so that in the future it is clear how long to pour concrete.

• The floor on the ground is a multilayer structure 30 - 35 cm thick.To equip it, we remove the top layer of soil until the height from the zero mark to the bottom of the excavation is 30 - 35 cm.

Important! If the soil level is below 30 - 35 cm from the floor level, then it is necessary to level the soil surface, tamp it, add sand to the required level and also tamp it thoroughly.

• We tamp the foundation of the pit.
• Pour a 10 cm layer of crushed stone and tamp it carefully. If the thickness of the backfill is difficult to control, then we drive several pegs into the ground with the desired mark. After leveling and tamping, the pegs can be removed.

• Pour a 10 layer of sand, pour it with water and ram it too.
• On top we pour a small layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 40 - 50 mm.
• Sprinkle with sand, forming a thin layer, tamp it carefully.

Important! If suddenly sharp edges of crushed stone fractions are observed on the surface of the base, it is necessary to unfold the pebble and put it so that there are no sharp corners anywhere.

At all stages of the filling, it is necessary to monitor the horizontal position.

Waterproofing, thermal insulation, reinforcement

• We lay a waterproofing material on the surface of the base - a polyethylene film with a density of 200 microns, roofing material or glass insulation. The main thing is that the material is not damaged on the edges of the rubble.
• We put the waterproofing material on the walls up to a mark 2 cm above the floor level. We lay it with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm and glue it with tape.

• At this stage, you can install a durable thermal insulation material. For example, extruded polystyrene foam or basalt wool in slabs, perlite or expanded clay are suitable. It is also possible to place the thermal insulation layer above, on top of the concrete base.

• The concrete floor must be reinforced. To do this, we use a metal mesh with 10 cm cells.
• We install the reinforcing mesh on supports 2 - 3 cm high so that the mesh is completely inside the concrete.

Installation of formwork and guides

To maintain the horizontal level of the floor, it is necessary to lay the so-called "beacons" or guides. For these purposes, you can use round and square steel pipes, wooden blocks. We place them in increments of no more than 1 m. We fix them with a thick cement mortar. Also, their height can be controlled by pouring more solution under the guides.

Between the guides, we install the formwork for pouring the floor. This is not necessary, but it makes the task of manually pouring the concrete floor much easier.

We treat the guides and formwork with oil or working off, so that after pouring they can be easily removed.

Rough floor screed - pouring concrete

It is necessary to pour the concrete floor in the house in one or two passes. If you take long breaks, then the foundation will turn out to be fragile.

• We start pouring concrete from the corner opposite the front door.
• Fill several cards at once, then level them with a shovel.
• We tamp the concrete using a deep vibrator.
• Align the surface using a rule. Set the rule on the guides and pull it towards you. The excess solution is distributed among the cards in which there is not enough solution.
• We take out the cards and fill the voids with concrete.
• When the entire floor is poured with concrete using this technology, it must be covered with plastic wrap and allowed to dry for a month.

For better drying of the concrete sub-floor, its surface must be moistened with water.

After the concrete is completely dry, the floor can be screed clean and the floor can be laid.

Making a rough floor with your own hands is a very important task, because a solid foundation is much more important than a finishing coating. For example, in an old house, you shouldn't put new flooring on top of an old subfloor, if it has not been overhauled.

The subfloor in a wooden house, which is made according to different methods, provides longevity and excellent aesthetic characteristics of the finishing flooring.

A rough base is understood as a special structure necessary to form the most even area for the finishing floor covering. Its second task is to ensure an even distribution of the load on the floor. The rough base can be equipped in two ways:

1. Dry - lags are used.
2. Wet - the leveling structure is created by means of a concrete screed.

Rough subfloor

Among other things, the subfloor in a wooden house is mounted in order to increase the thermal insulation performance of the dwelling. In timber buildings, the wet method of arranging the leveling base is very rarely used. It is usually created using lag. In this case, the rough floor platform is mounted on the base or on the floors (thick beams or reinforced concrete slabs perform their function). Next, let's talk about how to properly make a preliminary floor using wooden elements.

Before starting the arrangement of the rough base, it is necessary to choose the method by which it will be mounted and to determine the amount of materials required. After that, a row of round holes should be made in the corners of a residential building made of wood. They will provide effective ventilation of the subfloor and increase the life of both subfloor and finishing floor. The holes will not spoil the look of your home. At the end of all the planned work, you simply disguise them with decorative ventilation grilles.

Then it is necessary to treat the entire underground space and directly the lags with an antiseptic composition. Laying the rough base on an untreated area is not allowed. It should be understood that various microorganisms can appear on the elements of the subfloor during the operation of the building. If wooden logs are not processed, mold and mildew will destroy them very quickly. And it is almost impossible to repair the preliminary foundation - access to it is either completely impossible or very difficult.

• hot resin - it protects both from the negative effects of moisture and from a variety of pests;
• solutions of VVK-3, KhKhP or MHKhTs;
• fluorosilicate ammonium;
• chlorophos - it is most often used as protection against insects;
• sodium fluoride.

Wood processing products

All of these compounds are safe for humans. They do not emit harmful substances and at the same time have the required indicators of wood water protection. Processing with their help should be done strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Note! Subfloor boards only need to be processed from the back. But on the logs themselves, crowns and beams, protective compounds are applied from all sides.

Additionally, it is recommended to treat the sub-base with fire retardants. In specialized stores, universal compounds are now sold that simultaneously protect wood from fire, moisture and from the effects of microorganisms.

To install a platform for a floor finish, stock up on the following materials:

1. Wooden bars of the third or second grade - logs. In most cases, such products are characterized by a not very flat surface. Therefore, they need to be slightly tweaked. Your task is to make their front side (the one on which the laminate, parquet board or other covering will then be laid) more or less even. Such an operation is performed with an ax. Naturally, nothing needs to be done with logs made of first grade wood. Such products are in themselves very even.
2. Bricks for the construction of support posts. The height of the finished supports should be at the level of 20-25 cm, and their dimensions are usually 40x40 cm. The number of brick pillars is determined by the geometric parameters of a wooden house and its floor base. Supports are mounted on cement mortar.
3. Plywood or boards. With their help, the first and second draft layers are laid.
4. Polyethylene film or other waterproofing material. It is needed to protect the logs from decay.
5. Heat and vapor insulating material.

Installation of the platform for the floor finish

Also, the installation of the structure described by us is impossible without the use of fasteners. With brick supports, wooden logs are most often connected with 4x5, 5x5 cm bolts and steel corners.

How to make the floor correctly - instructions for beginner craftsmen

The design considered in the article can have two or one layers. If the beams are attached to the walls of a wooden residential building, the installation of a lag is mandatory. In such a situation, the distance between the individual beam products is quite large. If the distance between the beams is minimal, the leveling base is allowed to be made directly on them.

The scheme of self-assembly work is as follows:

1. Install brick pillars (they serve as a support for the black base) or make a strapping of boards around the perimeter of the room. If supporting elements made of bricks are used, roofing material must be laid on top of them.
2. Attach the logs to the base of the house. Fix them with bolts and corners made of metal (to brick supports) or (to a harness made of wood).
3. When installing the lag, leave 20 mm gaps near all wall surfaces. Insulating material can be placed in these slots. With a small distance of the support of the logs on the base of the house (less than 10 cm), they are installed in the same way. And then they are pressed with a fairly massive bar. It is fixed tightly in the walls of the building. The walls of the house and the sections of the joints of the timber are measured, after which the corresponding incision is made. It is advisable to take its dimensions a couple of centimeters larger than those that you get as a result of measurements. Do not forget that the logs will expand slightly under the influence of moisture.
4. Install cranial bars at the bottom of the supports for the rough base. Then connect them with the lags on the sides. The geometric parameters of such bars are always taken smaller than the dimensions of the main elements.
5. Mount the boards on the beams. You do not need to attach them. The wood will expand during operation. Free placement of the boards will not interfere with this natural process.
6. Lay a layer of waterproofing on the floor base. The selected moisture-proof material (for example, plastic wrap) should be fixed to the wall surfaces. On them, the waterproofer goes to a height that is equal to the height of all available levels of the feasible floor base (this indicator also includes the finishing of the floor). Fasten the areas of connection of the pieces of film with each other with a construction stapler.
7. Lay a layer of thermal insulation. The height of the lag should be slightly greater than the thickness of the heat-shielding material. For wooden buildings, it is allowed to use any materials for

   Subfloor thermal insulation layer

   Next, cover the cake made with a vapor barrier material. He is also fixed on the walls of the building with a stapler. The joints of vapor barrier products are glued together with construction tape. If the heat-insulating material was laid precisely along the height of the lag, thin slats should be mounted on their sides. They will hold the insulation in place. As a result, you get a ventilation gap under the floor.

   Final work - laying plywood, boards, OSB-boards on a rough base. The installation of the second layer of the base is carried out in the same way as you installed the first part of the structure (leave gaps at the walls, place heat-insulating material in them, and so on). Fastening of boards, plates and sheets is carried out with a pitch of 10-14 cm using stainless self-tapping screws.

   As you can see, it is not difficult to equip a rough base with your own hands. Good luck with this business!