Do I need a spacer between the toilet and the tiles. Installation of a wall-hung toilet. Connection of the installation with plumbing and sewerage systems

Fastened in a suspended way, not everyone could afford to put it, such products were quite expensive and not quite ordinary.

Now hanging toilet bowls, or installations, are very common and are not considered an elite and very fashionable accessory in plumbing rooms. These are practical devices that, thanks to their size and compactness, save space and are very convenient to use.

The device is suspended using a rigid frame that holds the waste cistern and all other elements of the toilet. During installation, such a frame is hidden in the wall, so it is not visible, which preserves a good view of the room. Only a ceramic container and a drain tank remain outside.

In technical terms, the installation of this device is much more complicated than the usual one. For the elements of such a toilet bowl, a niche in the wall and the fulfillment of several technical conditions are required. All parts that need to be hidden are mounted in the wall in such a way that only the necessary part of the device is visible.

Wall niche equipment and installation

The most important condition for such a hidden installation is the presence of a recess in the wall in which the mechanism will be hidden. Installation work begins with its equipment.

Due to the fact that the device needs a sewer pipe connection, the installation site is chosen, taking into account the possibility of a hidden connection. This is the main and most difficult stage of the work.

If the room is large and you do not need to save space, then you can do without such an installation inside the wall. The protruding parts of the structure, in such cases, are sheathed with plasterboard.

When a suitable place for the installation has been selected, work is carried out on the installation of the supporting frame and the hidden cistern.

Usually they start from this stage, and only then they bring the system, sewer pipes. There are several points on which it rests, there are four of them. The frame of the toilet is held by two legs that are attached to the floor, and brackets attached to the wall, two are enough.

The mechanism begins to mount from the legs. They are fixed, and after that the frame is adjusted in height, which depends on the height of the people using it. The drain hole is usually located 250-300 mm above the floor. At the bottom of the frame there are two bolts, with their help, its height is adjusted.

After the height is selected and adjusted, you need to fix the hanging toilet to the wall. This is done using sufficiently strong self-tapping screws, anchors. The frame with the help of them, as well as brackets, is securely attached to the wall.

When fixing the anchor points, you should check the location of the frame in all planes so that there are no distortions and similar unpleasant things.

Water supply and sewer pipes

The main condition when connecting a tank to water pipes is reliability. This is due to the fact that it will be very difficult and problematic to eliminate a leak in the event of such a leak - you will have to remove the wall cladding and the entire structure.

The material for the connection is chosen reliable; for this, copper or propylene parts are used. Tow and paint are used to seal the pipe. The use of flexible hoses is undesirable, they are not very reliable. In some cases, it is allowed to use quick-release parts - American.

The connection to the sewer pipes is much easier to carry out. Installation of the installation to the drainage system is done using ordinary sewer pipes, oh, you can purchase it together with the toilet on the website http://aquacity.com.ua/catalog/kaphel/floor_tiles. The connection is sealed with a sealing paste. Slopes and turns are mounted only with 45 degree bends so that water can drain into the sewer pipe.

After completing the installation and connection to the water supply and sewerage system, the entire mechanism must be tested. It is imperative to check the tightness of the joints, any leakage, loosening of the fastener and similar malfunctions must be eliminated. Only after a thorough check for the serviceability of the system, the structure is sheathed with plasterboard.

Installing a wall-hung toilet bowl

There are two main points that must be taken into account. Fitting the pipes, the seeming simplicity of this procedure is deceiving, in fact it is a rather painstaking work.

The main problem is determining their size. With a long pipe length, the toilet bowl may not stick tightly to the wall and, conversely, if it is too small, the sealing may be broken and a leak will appear. It is necessary to very accurately calculate the length of these parts.

When mounting the bowl, be sure to place a rubber or similar gasket between the wall and the toilet. Such a gasket will minimize damage and the material from which the toilet is made. If such a gasket is not included in the kit, but, as a rule, it should be, then silicone is used for this. It is applied to the wall, which will adhere to the bowl and wait until it is completely dry. Such a gasket is not a sealant, it serves to cushion and protect materials from mechanical damage.

In the process of fastening the structure, the nuts must be tightened very carefully and carefully, but at the same time, quite tight. Porcelain should not burst; for this, gaskets made of rubber and plastic are intended, which should be included.

When installing a toilet, it is difficult to do without such, at first glance, insignificant, but at the same time necessary element, such as a gasket. This part is the link between the cistern and the toilet, it makes the connection tight.

When buying a gasket, it is important to make the right choice of the product. To do this, you need to know what types of gaskets exist between the cistern and the toilet.

What are gaskets for?

The toilet bowl and cistern should become a single system after the installation of a hygiene device in the sanitary zone. This is the only way to avoid leaks and other unpleasant moments associated with plumbing. Everything should function smoothly and clearly. This can be achieved by using a special gasket. Such a product serves for a long time (for several years), and after wear it can be easily replaced.

The value of the gasket is difficult to overestimate; when installed between the toilet bowl and the cistern, it provides:

• creation of one well-coordinated system "toilet bowl";
• tightness of the connection of these elements;
• organization of a soft, elastic insert between two touching ceramic parts;
• elimination of leakage problems between the cistern and the toilet.

The main requirement for the gasket is its full compliance with the type of bowl and cistern. Only in this case will she be able to perform the above functions.

Over time, this seal loses its elasticity., cracks, dries up and begins to let water through - these characteristics are signs of the need to replace it. Do not be upset - you can replace the gasket with your own hands, without the help of an experienced plumber.

The price for this product is also low, so you just need to decide on the appropriate type of gasket and study the sequence of installation work.

Views

If there is a suspicion that the gasket has become unusable, then you should remove the tank and make sure that there is indeed damage. Situations may arise when the seal simply moved from its place, as a result of which a leak appeared. In this case, you just need to fix the gasket and check its tightness.

If a replacement is necessary, then you need to remove the deteriorated gasket and take it with you to the store. Thus, the shape, size and diameter of the gasket can be easily matched.

These seals, depending on the material of manufacture, are of several types.

• Rubber. The most popular and inexpensive parts.
• Silicone. They have good elasticity and are more expensive sanitary products.
• Polyurethane. The most expensive products in their segment. The high cost is due to its durability, shape invariability and elasticity.

Seals also vary in shape and form.

On sale you can find consumables called:

• conical;
• round;

• trapezoidal;
• oval, etc.

There are cistern gaskets that are only configured to seal the intake.

The country of origin can also make significant differences between products.

So, domestic gaskets have a significant disadvantage - their quality leaves much to be desired. Nevertheless, as evidenced by customer reviews, you can find pretty good products.

Imported seals, due to strict control, have better quality and longer service life. However, it is worth remembering that the cost of these elements is an order of magnitude higher than domestic ones.

In the process of choosing a toilet lining, experts advise you to test the product to determine the degree of its elasticity. It often happens that seals are stored in warehouses for a long time, the rules for their storage are violated, which leads to the fact that the products dry out and lose their original properties.

First aid

Since gaskets are most often made from rubber, there are many doubts about their durability. It is no secret that with constant contact with moisture, rubber products gradually lose their elasticity, harden, and begin to crack. And even small cracks can get water, which is the first reason for damage to the gasket.

It is possible to understand that the seal has fallen into disrepair on several grounds.

• Liquid appears on the toilet floor. If the liquid has nothing to do with the formation of condensation on the toilet cistern in the winter season, as well as the leakage of the valve, then this is a leak due to the inadequacy of the gasket.
• Visual inspection of the seal showed obvious damage. To carry out this operation, you must completely remove the cistern from the toilet. If no visible damage is found during inspection, feel the gasket. If the part is too rigid, it is better to replace the seal.

How to replace?

It is not difficult to replace the gasket; even an inexperienced person who is far from installing plumbing products can handle this process. One has only to remember some of the subtleties of the procedure, which, depending on the location of the toilet tank, may differ.

On the shelf

The seal between the cistern and the bowl can be located on the toilet shelf. This mount is the most common due to its compactness. But in this case, there are certain disadvantages, expressed in the low head of the flushing fluid.

In order to change the gasket, first of all, it is necessary to turn off the water supply and disconnect the hose. The cistern must be emptied with a valve and disconnected from the base by unscrewing the through screws. In this case, it must be borne in mind that porcelain is a fragile material and can crack.

The next step requires removing the old seal and replacing it with a new one. To increase the level of sealing, it is recommended to apply a layer of silicone to the base, which will help to fix the gasket and prevent it from shifting during the installation of the tank.

In some kits, depending on the toilet model, there may be another additional gasket, the function of which is not to seal, but to cushion and soften the contact of two porcelain elements. You should be aware that there are models that represent a one-piece design of the tank and bowl, which do not require replacing the gaskets.

Detachable

This design has the advantage that it is manifested in the intensity of the discharge fluid pressure. In this case, the drain pipe is fixed to the toilet and sealed in various ways, which depend on the shape of the neck of the bowl. In most cases, it has an extension that is used to securely connect with the ferrule. Behind this extension, a pre-treated silicone sealant must be installed.

Another seal option is the transitional petal cuffs. They are rubber products, the outer side of which is slightly larger than the diameter of the neck of the bowl, and the inner part corresponds to the diameter of the flush pipe section. During fixation, all elements are lubricated with a sealant. Such a cuff is installed inside the neck of the bowl, while it does not require an additional sealing gasket.

Eliminating leaks is a simple process, it is quite possible to replace the gasket on your own, the main thing is not to be mistaken with the diameter of the product when choosing seals.

Screed features

It would seem that it could be easier to tighten the parts when all the manipulations with the gaskets are behind. However, the procedure for fastening toilet parts has certain features.

The tightening of nuts on the thread of the bolt rods must be carried out evenly acting alternately with bolted connections. The force of pressure should be moderate, the intensity of the tightening correctly calculated. Do not overtighten the connections, it is enough to stop at the stage when the gasket is visually and by touch tightened to the desired level.

A hanging toilet recently seemed almost a luxury, in any case, for many it was a novelty, and its price hinted at its attitude to elite plumbing.

But a little time has passed, its cost has decreased, and its popularity among the population has grown, for which there are several reasons at once. Firstly, this type of toilet is still perceived as something new and unusual, which is appreciated among lovers of various novelties and extraordinary design solutions. Secondly, it is much more comfortable than its traditional counterpart. Such a toilet does not come into contact with the floor, therefore it does not complicate the cleaning process, allowing you to more thoroughly wash the floor and walls. There is also a third reason - only the bowl itself and the drain button remain in sight, and the tank and pipes are hidden in a niche, without cluttering up the space and not spoiling the overall appearance of the room. How to install a built-in toilet and should it be preferred at all? More on this later.

• laconic modern design that fits perfectly into any interior of a bathroom or separate toilet;
• structural strength. The bowl can withstand a weight of up to 400 kg, so even overweight people can safely use this option without fear of breakage;
• many options for shapes, colors and sizes. Hanging toilets are quite expensive, therefore, to attract buyers, manufacturers try to make them as comfortable and attractive as possible;
• water divisors, built into the toilet bowl, allow more thorough cleaning of the thicket thanks to the strong pressure of water.

Installing a wall-hung toilet yourself

The disadvantages, which also exist, include the complex installation process and high cost in comparison with conventional toilets. The installation requires a niche in which it will be placed. If there is no such niche, you will have to reduce the area of ​​the room and make a drywall box in which the system will hide.

Installing a wall-hung toilet with your own hands will undoubtedly help save a lot of money, but coping with this is not so easy. If the installation of an ordinary floor bowl is within the power of everyone, then there are nuances that complicate the process, in particular the presence of a supporting frame. The whole technology can be conditionally divided into several parts: installation of the installation, connection of the system, finishing work and installation of the bowl.

To install a wall-hung toilet, it is enough to have the simplest set of tools at hand. To drill holes for fasteners, you will need a hammer drill with concrete drills of appropriate diameters and the fasteners themselves. The markings are applied with a marker or pencil using a level and tape measure. To connect the element, a hammer, screwdrivers, adjustable wrenches, as well as open-end and ring wrenches are used. In addition, a grinder and silicone sealant are useful.

Installation of the supporting frame

The most important and difficult part is the installation of the toilet bowl installation. It is quite difficult to implement it with your own hands, but it is possible. First you need to decide on the location. If there is a niche in the room with an area of ​​at least 15x70 cm, the supporting structure can be fixed in it. Smaller dimensions do not allow you to place the installation inside and connect a sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm to it, so if the niche is small, you will have to equip an additional plasterboard box, "eating up" the usable area.

By the way, this moment refutes the opinion that a hanging toilet saves space, on the contrary, in order to hide all communications, you will have to sacrifice part of the room.

Installation begins with securing the installation: a supporting frame with a built-in cistern. The frame is fixed with two legs and two brackets. First, the legs are attached to the floor, after which the structure is adjusted in height using special bolts along the edges of the frame. The height of the toilet bowl installation from the floor is determined by the position of the drain hole and is 25-30 cm. Further, the brackets are attached to the wall using self-tapping screws or anchor bolts.

Installation of an installation under a wall-hung toilet

Throughout the entire installation process, it is necessary to constantly monitor the correct position of the individual frame elements using the building level.

Connection of sewerage and water supply systems

The peculiarity of a wall-hung toilet is that all its communications are hidden in the wall, so that any breakdown will lead not only to the replacement of worn-out elements, but to a full-fledged repair with repeated facing work. Therefore, all connections must be made carefully and securely.

The tank is connected to the water supply system with copper or polypropylene pipes, which are durable. In no case should flexible hoses be used; if necessary, it is allowed to install such a threaded connection as "American". The connection points are sealed with tow or paint.

Toilet bowl installation with installation

The installation is connected to the sewer with ordinary sewer pipes of the appropriate diameter, the joints are sealed with paste. At this stage, you need to remember about the necessary slopes of the pipes towards the drain and the installation of bends at an angle of 45º.

Once connected, the system is tested and checked for leaks, all connections are carefully inspected. At the same stage, the valve for supplying water to the drain tank opens, access to which after the casing will be closed. If the structure performs its functions properly, you can remove the pipes for fastening the thicket, the square for the drain button and the stud, followed by the stage of sheathing the installation with sheets of drywall.

Bowl assembly

The installation of a wall-hung toilet is carried out after the completion of all finishing work, which complicates the process a little. There are a few things to watch out for when installing:

• the length of the nozzles connecting the bowl to the installation must be optimal for each specific case. If they are too long, there will be a gap between the toilet and the wall, and too short pipes can cause the connection to leak. Therefore, the choice of their length must be approached responsibly even at the stage of connecting the installation to communications;

DIY hanging toilet bowl installation

• lining the walls of a toilet or a combined bathroom is most often a tile that is easy to scratch when installing a toilet. When installing the bowl, a rubber gasket should be placed between it and the tile, which will reduce the risk of damage to the lining and the bowl itself. The gasket can be replaced with a layer of silicone sealant, which is applied to the point of contact of the tile with the toilet. In this case, the sealant will play the role of a kind of shock absorber, and not ensure the tightness of the connection;
• the bowl is suspended and fixed with nuts. Tighten them all the way, but very carefully, using the supplied rubber or plastic gaskets. Overtightening the fasteners or missing the gasket may damage the porcelain surface.

Installing a wall-hung toilet

Drain button connection

This is the simplest stage of installation, the sequence of which depends on the type of the button itself. It can be mechanical or pneumatic. The latter is more reliable and durable, moreover, it has a simpler connection.

To begin with, a frame is cut out in the wall cladding at the selected place, which opens access to the elements of the connection to the tank. At this point, the valve for supplying water to the tank should be open, which is done even before plastering with plasterboard. The mechanical button is installed by adjusting the length of the plastic pins, and the pneumatic one is simply connected with two tubes to the block. Two pipes operate a small and large drain. The connected button is inserted into the hole until it clicks.

We install a hanging toilet with our own hands

For a more detailed study of the technology, it is also worth watching master classes on how to install a wall-hung toilet bowl with installation. The installation of such a structure is within the power of everyone, if you approach it responsibly, besides, the installation carried out with your own hands will save a lot of money, which already does not happen much during the repair. If you have any doubts about your capabilities and skills, it is better to turn to specialists. It is safer to hire workers in large firms with a good reputation, while concluding contracts. In the event of a disputable situation, it is much easier to obtain compensation for damage or re-installation.

The desire of designers to improve the appearance of toilet bowls, to create stylish bathrooms has contributed to the popularization of block and frame structures with a hinged bowl.

The installation itself is not cheap, and you will have to pay extra for its installation. Therefore, many home craftsmen hone plumbing skills and carry out installation work on their own. Agree, it would be nice to save money by attaching the toilet to the installation with your own hands?

We will help you with this issue. In the article, we describe in detail the device, the principle of operation and types of structures, as well as provide step-by-step technology and photo instructions for installing the toilet.

If the appearance of the external elements of the installation depends only on the designer's imagination, then the device of its internal structure can be divided into 2 options: frame and block.

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The frame of the drain button is latched and can be easily removed. There is a hole under it for supplying a water supply hose with a compact tap. Within this "mounting" window on the front wall of the tank there is a and, which can be unscrewed from the tank by hand and repaired without dismantling the box.

Myth number 3... A hanging toilet takes up a minimum of space.

Block and frame installations require an additional 20-25 cm of bathroom space. Therefore, these designs take up even more space than a floor-standing toilet. The only way to reduce the space is to locate the installation in a wall niche.

Myth number 4... There are no spare parts for block installations.

The sizes of components are standardized by most manufacturers, because repairable models have priority when buying. In plumbing stores, picking up a broken part is not difficult. In addition, you can do it yourself.

Step-by-step installation of the installation and the toilet

It is not difficult to install a plumbing installation yourself. The main danger lies in the leakage of the joint between the sewer pipe and the toilet nipple after the final installation.

To avoid such problems, you must follow all the rules for the step-by-step installation of the installation. Next, we will consider the installation diagrams of toilets with various designs.

Required tools

To carry out the installation of the installation and attaching the toilet to it, the following tools and materials are needed:

1. Screwdriver.
2. Adjustable wrench.
3. Hammer drill with drills.
4. Pliers.
5. Dowels and bolts.
6. Hammer.
7. Level.
8. Roulette with a marker.
9. Silicone.

A minimum of tools and materials are listed that will come in handy when installing the installation itself. When installing the box, other devices are needed, but it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Installing a block installation

There are two ways to install a block installation:

1. In a specially prepared niche in the wall.
2. On a concrete slab, which is then sewn up with plasterboard.

Regardless of the type of installation, the list of steps for assembling the installation remains the same.

Step one... Drawing of markings in the bathroom. In small narrow rooms, the toilet is installed along its axis, and in large rooms, it is better to place the bowl along the drain axis.

First, you need to draw a line with a marker or chalk from the corner to the corner of the room along the wall where the installation is planned. Then, along the axis of the installation of the bowl, it is necessary to draw a line perpendicular to the first line, using a building corner.

Step two... Formation of anchorage points. In accordance with the intended axis of the bowl installation, the fixation points of the block structure are determined. In case of misalignment of the axis of the bowl and the wall, wooden or plastic spacers can be placed under the mountings to achieve an angle of 90 degrees.

In loose concrete slabs, preference is given to fastening with dowels, which provide the maximum contact area of ​​the fasteners with the wall

It is imperative to center the location of the plugs relative to the middle of the toilet drain hole. If the distance between the attachment points of the block is 60 cm, then each hole for the dowel should be drilled at a distance of 30 cm from the axis of the bowl.

After marking, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill and insert the fasteners supplied with the product into them.

Step three... Fixing the block structure. The drain tank is screwed or anchored to the wall. After that, a water hose is supplied to the structure, and nozzles are attached, which will dock with the toilet bowl.

Inside the "mounting" window, there is usually a supplied flexible hose, into which water is supplied through an adapter with a tap

Step four... Screwing in the support pins of the bowl. After fixing the block mechanism, the toilet bowl is attached to it. Metal rods are inserted into the holes for its attachment and the places of their attachment on the wall are determined so that the height of the toilet seat is 40-48 cm.

The rods are made of ultra-strong rigid steel and can withstand a load of up to 450 kg without deformation. Subsequently, changing their location without dismantling the decorative box will not work.

After that, the toilet is removed, and holes are drilled in the concrete slab for the rods with a drill, which are then fixed in the wall with fasteners.

Step five... Sewer drain installation. The toilet bowl is hung on the support pins and a pipe for draining the water from the tank is inserted into it. After that, the sewerage scheme is determined and installed with rigid fixation of the 110-mm outlet pipe.

Rigid fixation of the sewer line is required, because when installing the toilet bowl, the pipe should not change its position

Step six... Sheathing of block installation and installation of a toilet bowl. After installing the sewerage, the toilet bowl is removed and the decorative sheathing of the entire sanitary structure with tiles or moisture-resistant plasterboard begins.

The drain button and its frame are installed last. But the operation of the drainage mechanism should be tested only after the sealant has dried at the sewer joint.

When the trimming work is completed, the drain button is mounted, and the bowl is pushed onto the drain pipes and support metal pins. After that, the toilet is attached to the wall with nuts.

Instead of sheathing the drain hole of the block structure, support rods and sewers, they are sometimes filled with concrete.

When mixing concrete for pouring, it is necessary to buy only certified materials, as well as observe the technology, because the structure will experience heavy loads

For this, after the fifth step, a general wooden formwork is mounted around the indicated structures, and its internal volume is filled with concrete. In 5-7 days after pouring, the formwork is removed, and the toilet bowl is docked with the support pins rigidly fixed in concrete, sewer pipes and a tank drain.

Installation of a toilet bowl with a frame installation

The installation of a frame installation with a toilet bowl can be carried out in any place in the bathroom. Single-frame structures are attached simultaneously to the wall and the floor, while installations with a double frame can be installed in the middle of the room in a special partition.

The installation of both design options differs only in the place of attachment of the metal frame and the shape of the decorative cladding, therefore their installation will be considered within the framework of one step-by-step instruction.

Step one... Assembling the frame structure. Installation of the installation begins with the assembly of the metal frame. To compensate for unevenness in the floor and walls, retractable legs are provided in the frame structure. After adjusting the position of the frame according to the level, the legs are rigidly fixed in the required position.

There is a special mechanism for adjusting the distance between the wall and the frame. Fixing the position of the presser foot must be rigidly made to avoid possible skewing of the frame.

The installation is attached to the place of installation, and the marker marks the places in which it is necessary to drill holes for the dowels.

Step two... Installing the tank on a metal frame. The height of the water tank can also be adjusted, but not in all installation models. The recommended height of the release button is 1 m from the floor surface.

The height of the drain button is not critical for the operation of the mechanism, but surveys indicate that 100 cm is the best option

Based on this parameter, the level of the location of the drain tank inside the metal frame is selected. Fittings for draining water are mounted together with the tank.

Frame structures often have a height-adjustable horizontal metal strip. It has holes or clips for attaching the support rods of the toilet bowl, drain pipes for water from the tank and sewerage system.

Step three... Sewerage installation. A 110 mm sewer pipe is laid to the frame.

Step four... Fastening the frame structure. Holes are drilled to attach the metal frame, and then it is screwed with screws or anchor bolts to the wall and floor at the designated points. The optimal distance from the frame to the wall is 140-195 mm.

It will not be possible to screw the frame close to the wall, because a 110 mm sewer pipe must still fit behind the metal legs

The sewer pipe is fixed to the frame using the available fasteners.

After the frame installation is completely assembled, it is necessary to make sure that the support height of the pins and nozzles is correctly adjusted. For this, a toilet bowl is hung on the structure.

Step five... Leak test. The water pipe is connected to the drain tank and the tap opens. After filling the tank, a test drain is performed. If there are no leaks, the toilet bowl is removed and the installation is covered.

Step six... Forming a box around a frame installation.

There are two ways to close the metal frame:

• sew up with drywall;
• overlay with bricks and tiles.

Before insulating the installation, it is necessary to close its branch pipes with plugs or plastic bags. For cladding, it is necessary to use a moisture-resistant plasterboard sheet with a thickness of 12.5 mm. The box will be a decorative element that does not bear the support load.

The front panel of the box must be reinforced at the back with a metal profile so that if you accidentally press on the drywall with your hand, it does not burst and fall

When covering, it is necessary to provide for the formation of holes for the nozzles and support pins of the toilet bowl in advance.

Step seven... Fastening the toilet bowl to the installation frame. You can proceed to the installation of the toilet bowl for installation immediately after plastering and painting the plasterboard box. If the metal frame was lined with bricks and tiles, then the toilet should be placed on it 10 days after the end of the work.

Between the bowl and the wall, instead of silicone, you can put a layer of insulation with a thickness of 1-2 mm to prevent cracking of the ceramic coating under loads

Before putting the toilet bowl on the support pins, it is necessary to lubricate the rubber gaskets of the sewer pipes and the drain hole of the tank with silicone. Also, a layer of sealant is applied to the back wall of the toilet bowl at a distance of 5 mm from the edge along the entire perimeter of contact with the wall.

The bowl is fixed to the wall with two bolts screwed onto metal pins. After a day, you can make a test drain to check the operation of the entire installation.

Block and frame installations do not necessarily involve the installation of a hinged toilet bowl. It can be installed classically on the floor. The installation scheme for a floor-standing toilet differs from the above methods only in the location of the fasteners and the sewer pipe.

When installing the toilet on the floor, it is fixed both on the supporting horizontal rods and screwed to the floor. Bowl manufacturers choose the type of attachment based on the shape of the product.

When fixing the toilet to the floor, it is necessary to mark and drill two mounting holes in the floor tiles. After sheathing the installation with a box, the toilet bowl is mounted to the sewer and cistern drain pipes, and then screwed to the floor using the existing fasteners.

After the final fixation of the toilet, it is necessary to coat the perimeter of the base with silicone sealant so that water and dirt do not get under the bowl.

There are a number of important nuances:

1. It is better to supply water to the hole of the drain tank using plastic pipes, because the service life of rubber hoses is limited to 3-5 years.
2. The support rods of the toilet bowl must not be fixed in old load-bearing walls. If the drill goes into the slab without encountering much resistance, then it is better to additionally concrete the rods with a sewer pipe and a tank drain pipe.
3. The frame must be bolted in at least 4 locations.
4. The water supply pipe must have a separate shut-off valve in an easily accessible place.

Following the proposed instructions will protect the apartment from flooding and prevent the need to dismantle the decorative box during the first years of using the toilet.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Videos in a few minutes will allow you to put together in your head a complete puzzle of the assembly scheme of installations for the toilet. After viewing them, the step-by-step instructions described above will become clearer and more deliberate.

The essence of the installation is reduced to an even and strong fastening of the frame, connecting the pipes and docking the toilet bowl with the drain unit. This can be done by every business person who knows how to handle the necessary tool.

Do you have practical skills in attaching a toilet to an installation? Share your own installation experience or ask questions about the topic of the article. The block for comments is located below.