Preparation of walls for wallpaper the order of work. Preparation of walls for gluing non-woven wallpaper. Liquid wallpaper - an alternative to classic options

You can decorate the walls in different ways: glue wallpaper, paint, cover with ornaments, artistic painting, decorative plaster.

The most common decoration method and the least troublesome is wallpapering. Preparing walls for wallpapering includes several stages that should not be neglected.

What is it for?

To prevent the wallpaper from peeling off, not deformed during work, and the canvas was laid flat on the wall, before gluing the wallpaper, you need to level the walls.

Wall treatment provides protection from mold, fungal spores and bedbugs.

Many walls have a finely porous structure that allows air to accumulate in the pores, which promotes the pasting of wallpaper seams. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to ensure maximum adhesion of wallpaper and walls.

Wallpaper glued to unprepared walls won't last long and aesthetically unattractive.

What should be the surface?

If you correctly carry out the preparatory work before gluing the wallpaper, then you can observe necessary requirements for the wall under the wallpaper:

Features of wall processing, depending on their material

Before achieving the desired wall surface for wallpapering, it is necessary to carry out a number of works that will help bring the surface to perfect condition... The features of preparing walls for wallpaper largely depend on what material the wall is from.

Nuances when processing walls from different materials:

Drywall has a flat surface, but it is porous and not strong enough. When processing, special attention should be paid to leveling the surface, taking into account the joints and screws.
Concrete walls the most durable. Since their structure has minimal porosity, sometimes it is enough to apply only a primer for preparation.
Brick walls not strong and even enough, therefore, to process them, it is necessary to go through several stages (leveling, puttying, priming).
Chipboard walls have screws and joints. It is necessary to cover them with oil paint. Next, the surface is processed in the usual way.
Treatment OSB walls under the wallpaper is practically no different from the preparation of brick walls. Only the first step is to seal the joints with a mixture and cover the wall with serpyanka.

Almost any coating can be prepared for gluing in such a way that from the material of the walls it is already the quality of wallpapering will not depend.

Read also how to glue a foam ceiling skirting board on the wallpaper with your own hands.

How to do everything correctly with your own hands?

At first glance, preparing walls for wallpapering seems to be quite a simple matter. But, there are nuances that the layman may not always know about.

Removing the old coating

If the walls are covered with old wallpaper or paint, then before pasting the wall, old decor must be removed.

Old wallpaper can be glued in several layers, so before removing it, you must first spray the wall with water. Then, with a spatula, remove the old layer.

Old paint is much more difficult to remove from walls. Exists three ways to delete old paint coating:

Mechanical. The paint is knocked down with tools (an ax, an electric drill, a grinder, a spatula, a chisel).
Chemical. The procedure consists in the fact that you need to repeatedly apply a chemical composition to the wall and wait until the paint begins to bubble and peel off the wall.
Thermal. This method involves removing the paint with a construction hair dryer.

Plaster

Plastering of walls is carried out in order to level the surface and elimination of its gross defects... Modern gypsum plaster can be applied to the wall in a layer of up to 7 mm, which is very convenient for leveling.

Prepare the mixture and spatula for the job. Fill in cavities and cracks with putty, knock down protrusions and bulges as much as possible, and smooth the remaining unevenness with the composition.

If the wall is uneven (has a slope), then it can be leveled using beacons, a level and a rule.

After complete drying walls, you can proceed to puttying the surface.

Putty

Putty - one of the mandatory steps, which must be done when preparing walls for wallpapering. A solution of putty is produced with a consistency that easily falls on the surface.

With circular movements of the spatula, the mixture is applied to the wall in several stages, while the layer should not exceed 4 mm. Hard-to-reach places (radiator, pipes) must be putty with a rubber spatula.

Finishing layer of putty applied most accurately so that there are as few irregularities as possible.

Get rid of mold, fungi, bedbugs

It is necessary to process the walls from fungi, mold and bedbugs before gluing the wallpaper without fail, even if there are no such defects on the wall.

There is several preventive and effective recipes for treating walls from mold and similar formations:

bleach - dissolve 200 g of bleach in a liter of water and apply to the wall;
the fungicide, like lime, can also be diluted with water and the resulting solution used;
chlorine solution (whiteness) effectively fights the fungus and its spores;
hydrogen peroxide solution copes well with mold spores and fungus;
a solution of copper sulphate and water (100 g per 10 liters) also effectively affects the foci of mold, fungi and protects the walls from bedbugs.

If mold has emerged through the plaster, then this piece of plaster must be cleaned down to the base. Treat the wall with any of the solutions. After surface treatment, it is recommended to apply a primer with an antiseptic.

Important! When working with solutions, it is necessary to use protective devices: gloves, respirators, goggles.

Primer

By priming the walls the consumption of adhesive is reduced, and also priming has a number of properties that have a positive effect on the final stage of finishing.

Priming result:

the quality of gluing the wallpaper to the wall increases;
no cracking of the putty occurs;
the impermeability of moisture to the wall is ensured;
the formation and development of fungus is prevented;
the adhesion of wallpaper and walls is enhanced, thereby increasing the service life of the wallpaper.

To ensure that the priming process is carried out correctly you need to know some subtleties:

the primer is applied only to a completely dried putty;
wallpaper should only be glued onto a completely dried primer.

Since the porosity of the wall can be heterogeneous, then the primer should be applied to the wall unevenly. A more porous surface is needed handle with a large amount of the mixture.

When all stages of wall processing are correctly completed, then the final result of the work will meet the expectations: smooth walls, perfectly laid wallpaper, no problems with mold and bedbugs.

In the next video, see what needs to be done before wallpapering the walls:

Processing the walls before gluing the wallpaper is a very important stage, which you cannot do without. The service life of the new wallpaper depends on how correctly and efficiently all stages of the preparatory work were done. Surfaces must be processed carefully, without missing anything. There are four main preparatory stages - cleaning the wall from the old coating, leveling, priming and putty.

Stages of preparatory work

One of the conditions necessary for high-quality wallpaper gluing is a complete preliminary cleaning of the surface from lime, glue residues and small pieces of wallpaper that could not be removed during the removal of the coating. The final surface must be hard enough so that no dents or scratches from metal tools are left. If this layer is left loose, it will not withstand the weight of the coating over time and will flake off. The stronger the wall surface, the better the adhesion to the wallpaper.

There should be no stains on the base - rust, dirt, lime drips. That is why a layer of putty is needed before gluing. The old wall may be stained by mold and mildew. Before starting the putty, it is imperative to get rid of them, otherwise microorganisms will multiply very quickly in a favorable environment. New wallpapers will eventually turn black from mold.

To avoid this scourge, the walls are additionally treated with a special primer that protects the surface from fungal formations. And only then a layer of putty is applied.

So, here is the sequence of work before gluing wallpaper on the wall:

Removing the old coating.
Cleaning the walls from the remnants of wallpaper, stains, dirt and dust.
Leveling the base.
Primer and putty.
Finishing work on cleaning the walls.

What tools will be needed to carry out the work:

a set of hard spatulas - wide, narrow and serrated;
rubber spatula;
construction mixer for plaster;
protective mask - respirator;
thick gloves;
level or plumb line;
skin;
roller.

What materials for wall processing will be needed:

antiseptic primer to protect the surface from fungi;
plaster (gypsum is best);
putty.

The initial stage of preparing the walls

All unnecessary furniture and any items that interfere with work are removed from the room. All that remains is covered with ordinary plastic wrap or a fairly dense and durable cloth. All wall-mounted electrical appliances, including sockets, are dismantled, otherwise they will interfere with high-quality work. It is worth removing the curtains from the windows, and before starting the preliminary work, turn off the electricity.

Once the work surfaces and space are clean, you can start removing the old wallpaper. This is the very first step before wallpapering the walls. Do not leave old canvases - they may not withstand the weight of new wallpaper (especially non-woven or vinyl). Old wallpaper will soak in water from the glue, get wet and warp.

In order to make it easier to remove old wallpaper, first you need to thoroughly moisten them with warm water using a roller or ordinary rag. The walls remain in this form for several hours so that the wallpaper is saturated with water. When time has passed, you can begin to remove the old coating. If the wallpaper turned out to be glued tightly, you can steam it - for this you need to leave one or more buckets of hot water in the room. The steam emanating from the water will increase the humidity in the room, and the old wallpaper will be better removed from the wall.
The most convenient way to remove wallpaper is with ribbons. If you come across pieces that are too well glued, they need to be poured over with warm water and scraped off with a metal spatula. It can be either regular or serrated.

So, when the walls are completely cleared of wallpaper, it remains to remove the nails and dowels, if any. In order not to accidentally arise a fire hazard, the wires must be hidden in special channels. Now it remains only to check with a plumb line or level the degree of evenness of the base and determine whether it is necessary to additionally level the surface.

Cleansing and leveling the base

By removing the remnants of wallpaper, lime, small irregularities from the walls, an even and solid surface is created, new canvases of wallpaper will fit well and tightly on it. This is the very moment when it is necessary to decide whether it is necessary to apply additional layers of plaster and putty to the walls, or whether the work done is enough.

If the base turned out to be with differences less than 2 cm, then before puttingtying, you need to level the walls with plaster. It can be applied in a fairly thick layer. Beacons are used to correctly determine the thickness of the layer.

The walls are leveled not with one trowel, but with two. In this case, it is necessary to periodically check the thickness of the layer with a level or plumb line. Be sure to carefully work out the traces of screws and nails, as well as various cracks and dents. If this is not done, the effect of the work will be ruined.

When the required layer of plaster is applied, you need to leave it to dry completely. Once the walls are dry, they need to be leveled with sandpaper and then treated with an anti-fungal primer. Its layer will not only protect the walls from fungi, but also improve their waterproofing qualities. If the walls are perfectly flat, but they have stains of any origin, plaster is not required - a thin layer of putty is applied to the walls.

After applying the putty, the walls also require complete drying and leveling with sandpaper. After all work has been completed, the walls and floor of the room should be cleaned of white dust. The walls are now ready for wallpapering.

Finishing works

Once the wall is cleaned and leveled, wallpaper cannot be glued to it yet. Previously, it is necessary to additionally process the base with wallpaper adhesive. Especially carefully you need to smear those places where there is the greatest chance for the wallpaper to come off - openings of doors and windows, corners, fasteners for heating radiators.

Does not hold wallpaper and smooth surfaces such as paint or plastic. Such walls must first be made rough by sandpapering.

Do I need to putty drywall?

It may seem that these actions are not necessary, because the drywall sheets are initially even and soft enough. Usually, only puttying of seams and dents in the places of self-tapping screws is enough. But here it is worth considering one fact - if you want to change the wallpaper, the task will become incredibly difficult, because they will stick to the gypsum board tightly. Such a coating will move away from the wall only together with pieces of drywall. In order not to get into such a situation in the future, plasterboard walls must be completely putty.

Plasterboard walls are prepared for wallpapering in a slightly different way than concrete ones. The fact is that drywall is a more vulnerable material, some methods of cleaning the walls from the old coating are not suitable here, there is a risk of damaging the walls. To carry out the work you will need:

putty specifically for drywall and a container for its cultivation;
reinforced tape;
primer;
a set of spatulas.

The old coating is removed from the walls without the use of water. Here you need to be very careful not to accidentally remove the coating along with a piece of drywall. As soon as the old wallpaper is removed, the surface must be leveled with putty.

In cases where the apartment was purchased without finishing, and it is necessary to glue the wallpaper on absolutely clean walls, and not on old ones, then you need to additionally process the seams between the sheets with tape and putty all the holes that remain from the caps of the screws.

Then the entire surface of the walls is covered with a primer, it must be selected specifically for drywall. It is sold in almost any building materials store. Further actions are no different from those in the preparation of concrete surfaces.

For surface treatment, the walls are pre-treated with plaster, putty and primer before wallpapering. These materials not only level the walls, but also provide additional protection against fungi and mechanical damage. Processing walls for wallpaper is not too tedious; you can cope with it even with minimal skills in repair work.

For finishing walls, non-woven wallpaper is very often now used. This type of finishing material is quite versatile. It is easy to install and operate, waterproof, durable and able to hide some small defects on the wall. The choice of non-woven wallpaper can be made for any room.

Use of non-woven wallpaper for walls

However, despite the simple requirements for the wall covering on which the non-woven wallpaper will be glued, it is still worth preparing it. Today we would like to tell you how to properly work with the walls before gluing the wallpaper.

Cooking the walls

Wallpapering is not the most difficult task, especially if it is a non-woven wallpaper, but it definitely requires a lot of patience. One of the most important stages of work is preparation for gluing. Mistakes made at this stage will certainly lead to a worse result in the future, therefore, it is necessary to withstand the technology, to do everything right. Almost any person can cope with this task, it will be enough to gather strength and show some perseverance.

The main thing is not to overdo it with dismantling work and stop in time

We remove the wallpaper

First of all, we need to dismantle the old wallpaper, for this we need a sharp spatula and a large amount of water. It is better to choose a small but sharp trowel so that it can easily cut into the depth of the wallpaper material. A large spatula will come in handy for the following plastering work.

If there is old paper wallpaper on the surface of the walls, then it will be difficult to remove them, use a large amount of water. Before dismantling, apply water and let it soak into the wallpaper, and then remove the old wallpaper.
If they were previously glued, then, most likely, they will easily come off in whole canvases. However, in order to pour water over the wallpaper, it must be damaged, since they themselves are waterproof.

To create an even and straight wall, after the wallpaper has been removed, we need plaster. It is with its help that we will achieve a flat and smooth surface. Most often, wallpaper from the walls is peeled off along with parts of the plaster, since they were glued tightly.

Not the worst option for dismantling old canvases

Therefore, before gluing new non-woven wallpaper or canvases on a non-woven basis, we need to create a flat surface of the walls. To do this, we use plaster, you can choose the well-known German Rotband, other options are possible.

Plastering

Wall preparation begins from the very basics, with careful plastering of the surface. The first layer is applied base, up to a centimeter thick, two. The consistency of the plaster must be such that it can get into all the recesses of the wall. Irregularities up to a centimeter in height are buried in the solution, and the wall becomes smooth.

Before the next layer of putty, called "finishing", it is necessary to prime the entire surface of the walls. This is done to strengthen the inner layer of the plaster. For the primer, use a special compound that can be easily found in the store.

The second finishing layer of plaster is applied after the primer has dried, the thickness of this layer varies from 1-3mm. This thin layer of putty removes all minor wall defects. Usually at this stage builders recommend choosing Vetonit, but whatever finishing putty you take, a second thin layer will help create a surface close to ideal.

Works to align the walls in the room

After the second layer of plaster has dried, the surface is sanded, the remaining minor defects are removed. Now the walls should be white and even, it will be easy to glue the wallpaper on any basis on them, it remains only to resolve the issue with the soil.

Priming

The plaster walls are behind, now we have to again, but already before gluing the wallpaper on a non-woven base. You can prime it with wallpaper glue, diluted in a more liquid consistency, or use a special composition, which is also sold in a concentrate.

This time we are producing a primer to reduce the absorbency of the wall surface. We need to ensure that the liquid from the glue is not immediately absorbed, and the wall does not remain dry.

Anyone can cope with the priming task

Now the walls are completely ready for gluing non-woven wallpaper or non-woven canvases. Recall that no glue is applied to such wallpaper, but only the wall is smeared.

Other options

A very bad option if you want to glue the wallpaper onto a painted wall. Wallpaper does not fit well on a smooth, slippery surface, so before gluing, we will have to remove a layer of paint from the walls.

This is a very time-consuming business, but if we want to make a full-fledged renovation, we will have to sacrifice time. All the basic preparation for working with wallpaper will consist precisely in removing paint from all walls in the room.

The paint on the walls is different

We can remove paint from the wall in several ways:

The easiest and low-quality option is to sand the surface of the walls, and in some places, use a knife to make serifs and notches. Then a primer is applied and wallpaper is glued, but they will not hold well everywhere.
Another option is not the safest - the paint is removed from the walls with a spatula, for which it is heated with a construction hair dryer. This must be done in a respirator and with good air circulation, since when heated, harmful substances can be released from the paint.
The third option is very dusty and dirty - the paint is removed using a brush, or an iron brush worn on a perforator or grinder. When sanding the walls, a huge amount of dust is released, so the room must be isolated as much as possible: close all doors, windows and plug up the cracks.
The last option is the use of special solutions for removing paint and varnish. This method is also quite dangerous, so take care of personal protective equipment.

After removing the paint from the wall, before gluing the non-woven wallpaper, the walls must be primed, since in the original version they absorb liquids very strongly. The concrete-contact primer copes with this task perfectly.

This time the dusty method was chosen to remove paint from the walls.

If the walls were badly damaged when removing the paintwork, then we return to the plaster of the walls. In the presence of extremely large damage, it is even possible to plaster the walls along the lighthouses. However, this method involves the application of a large amount of plastering material.

Often there are walls that require a huge amount of plaster to level them. In this case, it is permissible to consider the alignment of the geometry of the room by means of drywall. Irregularities and defects in the walls are simply sewn up with sheets of gypsum plasterboard.

Use for plasterboard wall decoration

On drywall walls, non-woven wallpaper is glued just fine, but it also needs to be primed, but in this case you will not have much primer. Vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven base will perfectly fit on even, prepared plasterboard walls.

Proper preparation of the walls before you glue your wallpaper will avoid many problems in the future. Even if the repairs are done by amateurs, many difficulties in the work can be avoided by carrying out elementary work to level the walls. In the future, you just have to enjoy an excellent renovation.

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However, it is worth noting that the wallpaper glued to the gypsum board, worked out in this way, cannot be removed, painlessly for the walls.

Option two - standard

Suitable for any type of wallpaper. After priming and processing the joints and corners, it is necessary to cover the surface with a starting putty, then sand and putty again - this time with a finishing compound.

Be sure to reapply the primer over the second coat. On drywall, prepared in this way, it will be easy to glue the wallpaper, and later it will also be easy to remove this wallpaper from it.

Option three - perfect

This is the most time consuming and long-lasting option, which is used if the wallpaper is combined with another decor - for example, painting or Venetian plaster.

Putty the wall three times, rubbing each layer with sandpaper: starting putty, then again it, then glue the fiberglass (“cobweb”) on the wall, then apply the finishing putty.

The result is a surface that rivals natural, premium silk in terms of smoothness. Such a result will definitely be guaranteed by real professional plasterers.

When choosing a certain type of primer, you should consider the material that is the basis of the product. Manufacturers have developed special formulations that are optimally used for heavy and light materials. According to its composition, the soil is divided into several types:

Acrylic. These impregnations are used for the treatment of concrete surfaces, drywall and wood. Great for living rooms, as they are odorless. Complete drying time - up to 24 hours. Impregnations of this type are referred to as universal.
Alkyd. Used to prepare wood and metal surfaces for subsequent painting or pasting. Dry quickly enough - up to 12 hours. Cannot be used to protect plastered walls.
Glyphtalic. These impregnations are designed for metal products. It will take at least a day to dry.
Perchlorovinyl. Prohibited for application in living rooms. Designed for coating mineral substrates and metal products. Drying time - up to 4 hours.
Polyvinyl acetate. For high-quality impregnation under standard conditions, 30 minutes is enough. Used to cover walls before pasting with PVA-based products.
Polystyrene. Also not recommended for indoor protection. Designed to protect wood and plaster walls.
Phenolic. Designed to protect wood and metal elements.

A few words about the pasting process

If you decide to use the services of professionals when carrying out repairs, then they definitely will not have a question about whether it is necessary to prime the walls before gluing the wallpaper. And in the absence of this composition in the assortment of building materials you bought, they will certainly send you to the store for it. Moreover, the primer will literally flow like a river while preparing the walls for pasting.

Let's see why you need to prime the walls? Wallpaper, even the most dense and embossed, is not able to level the surface, mask all the potholes and pores. If you stick them on an unprepared surface, then at a certain angle all the flaws will immediately catch your eye. This is unlikely to please anyone.

The primer also protects the wall from mold that can develop under the wallpaper. A particularly favorable environment for fungus appears in the corners of rooms, and they often turn black. The primer will prevent mold growth by sealing all pores and micro-cracks.

In addition, the wallpaper adheres more tightly to the primed wall, as the adhesion of the materials increases. Unprimed walls have pores in which air accumulates. If the wallpaper is glued to such a loose surface, then literally in a month the panels will begin to disperse, first at the joints, and then in other places.

The use of a primer significantly increases the level of reliability of the adhesion of the wallpaper with the base. Even thorough cleaning followed by washing cannot completely remove dust particles from the walls. If they are not primed, then the dust rolls down and does not allow the glue to be distributed evenly over the entire plane.

For this reason, the wallpaper can become detached over time in areas where the adhesive had poor adhesion to the wall. Primers neutralize dust by hammering it to the surface. As a result, direct contact of dust particles with the adhesive mixture is excluded.

Priming should be carried out without fail when gluing wallpaper to walls made of highly porous materials - gypsum, foam concrete, wood concrete, cement / gypsum plaster, etc.

Plastic cuvette (tray) for paint is also suitable when working with a primer. Helps to distribute the composition more evenly over the roller and remove excess

The primer seals the pores, which reduces the consumption of glue and significantly improves the quality of adhesion. White primers are great for treating walls for pasting thin translucent wallpaper. Such soils make the plane uniform, hiding paint marks and various stains.

1) It is necessary to prime the walls under the wallpaper carefully, evenly distributing the solution. Problematic surfaces (for example, too loose or from which dust "pours") will not hurt to treat it twice.

Applying a primer to a plastered wall using a roller

2) Particular attention should be paid to priming hard-to-reach areas - corners, niches, curved and figured work bases. It is in these places that wallpaper most often lags behind due to poor-quality application of primer and glue.

To apply the primer behind pipes and in the corners of walls, you can use a brush or a small diameter roller

3) The application of wallpaper is started only after the final drying of the primer layer. Drying time depends on several factors - type of substrate, type of primer, temperature and humidity level at the facility.

Before treating the surface of the walls with a primer, you must prepare:

soil container;
paint roller with medium bristles;
medium flat brush;
small flat brush.

It is advisable to use gloves when processing: when the soil dries, the skin surface darkens and sticks a little. Preparing the surface according to all the rules includes several stages.

First, remove the old coating. To do this with a minimum of dust, you should use an ordinary spray bottle, filling it with water: moistening the wallpaper will allow you to remove them in large fragments without scraping.

To prevent the two-layer old wallpaper from peeling off, you need to wait until it gets wet. This eliminates the need to use a spatula: mechanical movements can scratch the surface.

When the old coating is removed from the walls, you need to plaster the walls using cement-sand mortar or putty, cover up cracks, get rid of bumps, pigmented areas.

If lime remains on the surface, you can remove it with sandpaper. This process is difficult to complete without dust, so the doorway will have to be closed. After processing, dust is removed, including the one that has settled on the floor. This should be done with a sponge slightly dipped in water. The sponge should not be too wet.

Then you can treat the walls with a primer. If it is difficult to remove the old wallpaper from the walls during the preparation process, you can buy a special liquid that will not resist the strongest glue. Surfaces can be covered only after the putty is completely dry. If there is high humidity in the room, it will not be superfluous to spray the walls with a spray from fungus and mold.

But home craftsmen who are independently engaged in repairs quite often omit this procedure, considering it optional. And, it should be noted, completely in vain. Why? Let's try to figure it out. So, do you need to prime the walls before gluing the wallpaper? And if so, why, how and how to do it?

Wallpaper has always been and still is a popular material for decorating wall surfaces. A huge number of all kinds of them are produced today, differing both in cost, and in texture, and in the materials from which they are made. However, one thing unites them: the walls for them need to be properly prepared.

And those home craftsmen who think that the thicker the wallpaper, the less time you need to spend on pre-processing the walls, are deeply mistaken. It must be remembered: if you do not want the result of your labors to cause only tears, do not try to save money. Ideally, the walls should first be leveled with plaster and then putty.

And at the same time, there is no need to ask the question of whether it is necessary to prime the walls before gluing the wallpaper, considering this procedure not worthy of attention and trying to speed up the process. The primer mixture should always be at hand, and you need to use it when plastering, and when puttingtying, and before immediately pasting itself. Why?

If budget repairs are planned, then you need to remove all the old wallpaper, clean the walls from dust, inspect them and carefully seal all existing defects with putty. After that, you can start priming. In the same case, when large-scale finishing works are envisaged, the primer can only be applied after the finishing putty layer has been cleaned. That is, this will be the final stage just before the pasting itself.

The primer applied to the wall will make it smooth and mask all the irregularities. Therefore, the walls must be primed.

When preparing for priming and wallpapering walls, use the following tips.

Not everyone knows how many times to primer walls. It is enough to apply a high-quality primer on a well-prepared surface once. On porous, heavily crumbling and moisture-absorbing substrates, apply 2 layers of primer.

The next layer is applied evenly over the entire surface only after the previous one has completely dried.
Dry primer is cheaper than ready-made liquid primer.
It is necessary to dilute the soil mixture strictly according to the instructions on the package. The result should be a homogeneous mass composition.
It is imperative to observe safety precautions, protecting the body and eyes from the ingress of the primer.
If you do not have the opportunity to buy a primer, you can apply diluted wallpaper glue to the wall before gluing.

Which primer should you choose?

The indisputable advantages of impregnating walls using a primer prove that a primer for wallpaper is required to obtain high-quality pasting. Which impregnation to choose depends not only on the composition of the roll material, but also on the type of surface.

It is best to treat concrete surfaces with universal acrylic or alkyd impregnations. These solutions, getting into the concrete structure, create a slightly roughened coating, which provides excellent adhesion for both paper and non-woven wallpaper.

If the owners decide to paste over the ceiling, then these types of primer should also be applied to the surface of the floor slabs. Correct processing will not only improve adhesion, but also impart water-repellent properties to the surface. H

When it is necessary to paste over wooden walls, primers are used for painting based on oil solutions. An acrylic primer is suitable for processing plywood or fiberboard.

For sheet materials (gypsum plasterboard, drywall, OSB), which are often used in new buildings, it is recommended to use universal acrylic solutions with an antiseptic. Such a base will be poorly impregnated due to the nature of the material, but vinyl wallpaper and glass wallpaper can be reliably placed on the treated surface.

The choice of a specific type of primer depends on which wall is supposed to be covered with wallpaper.

Choosing a video primer.

What is the primer:

Acrylic - designed to reduce the hygroscopicity of walls, to prevent the appearance of new cracks on them. In addition, when using it, the amount of the required adhesive composition is reduced. Recommended for fine-pored walls and drywall. Due to its composition, it easily penetrates the surface, smoothes out minor defects. Acrylic primer is odorless, dries quickly, dissolves in water.
Latex - forms the thinnest film on the wall, providing adhesion of the surface to the finishing materials. Recommended for plastered walls, as it has a firming effect. Latex primer is good for improving the waterproofing properties of surfaces. This type of soil fits well on concrete, stone, suitable for damp rooms.
Alkyd - similar in properties to paint. Suitable for wood and concrete, prevents the development of mold and mildew. This primer is often apply before covering walls with latex or acrylic. The alkyd primer does not penetrate deep into the pores and is more suitable as a preparatory step before applying another type of primer. It is not recommended to use it on plastered and plasterboard surfaces.
Glyphthalic - not recommended for use in damp rooms. Suitable for concrete, brick and wood walls. Dries up within 24 hours.
Universal - designed to cover all surfaces. It consists of acrylic and resins, is diluted with water, and penetrates well into the surface to be treated.
Wallpaper glue - not every type of glue is suitable for priming walls, you need to look in the instructions from the manufacturer.

The soil has practically no negative properties. Unpleasant moments when using it may arise with the wrong selection of coverage and in connection with its direct features.

The disadvantage of liquid primers is their transparency and the penetration of stains through them. Therefore, using them in damp rooms, you can get pronounced spots on the surface of the wallpaper.

A thick primer does not penetrate well into the wall surface.

The ideal option is to use two formulations at the same time. Liquid is applied in the first layer, thick - in the second.

Choosing a video primer.

The ideal option is to use two formulations at the same time. Liquid is applied in the first layer, thick - in the second.

Primer properties

A primer is a special mixture containing substances that create a kind of film on the surface. This makes the base base less absorbent and more durable. In addition, the primed wall has high adhesive qualities, as a result of which the materials applied to it adhere better to the surface and hold on longer.

Preparing a mixture for priming

Do I need to prime the walls before wallpapering? Often, many refuse to priming the surface. Sometimes it really isn't necessary. For example, if the base is flat and solid. But if it is necessary to strengthen the surface or increase the level of adhesion, then the primer is simply irreplaceable.

It can be used not only for gluing wallpaper, but also for painting or putty. It will not only strengthen the surface, but also protect it from the negative effects of moisture and prevent the appearance of mold and mildew. In the case of wallpaper, the primer will increase the adhesion level, which will ensure good adhesion of the covering to the wall.

Why prime the walls before wallpapering? If the wall is loose, priming is a must. If you neglect it, the coating will not last long, and the base itself will begin to crack and crumble. Also, with a high humidity in the room, mold, mildew or stains on the lining may appear.

Does wallpaper need to be primed before painting? Experts recommend performing a similar procedure in order to increase the adhesion between the coating and the mixture. Do I need to prime the wallpaper for painting? The primer should be applied to different types of canvases, including non-woven wallpaper.

How to properly prime the walls before wallpapering? This question worries many newcomers to the construction business. The process of priming walls under the wallpaper with your own hands is not very difficult, but you need to take into account a number of nuances:

The wallpaper can only be applied at a certain temperature. It should be between 5 and 30 degrees. The average moisture content should be 75%.
Before work, you need to prepare all the tools in advance. You will need the following: a brush, roller, soil container, and a table or ladder.
The first step is to prepare the surface. You will need to wash off the whitewash and remove the old covering from the wall. If any pieces of paper remain, they should be moistened with water and removed with a spatula.
Further, according to the instructions on the package, a white primer for wallpaper is diluted.
The mixture is mixed using a special construction mixer. If such a tool is not at hand, mixing is carried out manually.
The required amount of solution is poured into the container and the required amount is collected using a roller. You need to do everything carefully so as not to spray the composition.
The wall is carefully treated with a solution so that there are no dry areas left. But using too much of the composition is also not recommended, this can lead to the formation of drips.
How to treat areas that are difficult to reach? Hard-to-reach places are best treated with a brush.
After the first treatment, you need to wait two hours so that the solution has time to dry. Drying time directly depends on the type of product selected and purchased.
After drying, you can proceed to applying the second layer.

You should also not use this type of primer for wallpaper - after all, the wall will be plastered in any case, and completely different primers are friends with plaster. They dry out in about 15 hours.

Glyphthalic

perfect for both wood and plastered surfaces;
dries for a very long time.

This type of primer is much closer and can be called universal, but the only drawback - the long drying time - makes many craftsmen lean towards a different choice. Let's note the demanded mixtures: GF-021, Ecol.

Acrylic

100% versatile;
dries very quickly;
perfect fits under the wallpaper.

In any unclear situation, buy an acrylic primer. This is, of course, a joke, but there is a lot of truth in it: it is suitable for any surface, and it will dry even faster than you have time to choose the most beautiful wallpaper for your interior. Focus on the following names: Ceresit, Snezhka, Pufas, Forman - quite high-quality solutions at a reasonable price.

Well suited for a wide variety of surfaces. According to their composition, they are divided into two groups: water-soluble and based on organic components. Water-soluble compounds are designed for interior finishing works with low and medium humidity levels. It is advisable to purchase organic primers for processing objects with high humidity. In general, acrylic "organic" is primarily used for external work.

In addition, acrylic primers are available for strengthening, adhesion and penetration. The latter type is used for priming porous walls and surfaces that have lost their strength (old plaster, concrete walls that have begun to exfoliate, etc.).

Penetrating primers are able to penetrate the material to a depth of 100 mm, strengthening it and reducing the degree of porosity.

Acrylic-based adhesive primers create a thin film layer on the work surface, to which the adhesive adheres very well. A layer of film also helps to further flatten the plane. This type is great for sticking heavy wallpaper.

Acrylic-based strengthening primers do not absorb deeply. Their main task is to bind dust particles.

2. Adhesives

Many of us remember that in the past, a paste was used to fix the wallpaper, which was cooked at home from starch. It was applied to wall surfaces in two layers (as a primer), and the canvases themselves were also coated.

This method of sticker can be used when working with low-porous walls, on which light wallpaper made of paper will be applied. Currently, there are different types of glue on the market, similar in properties to "homemade" paste. If the label of such a product indicates that it can act as a primer, then there is no need to purchase the latter.

Again, it is advisable to use factory-made paste-type adhesives only for working with light paper webs.

Primers based on alkyd resins have long been used for treating various substrates. They are best suited for application on natural wood and wood composites - OSB, chipboard, plywood, fiberboard, MDF, etc. In addition, alkyd mixtures containing glyphthalic alkyd resins can be used for priming metal substrates.

1) It is necessary to take into account what material the walls are made of. There are universal primers on sale. They are not cheap, but they allow you to work with almost any wall. The purchase of such primers is relevant when the room has walls, partitions and other surfaces for wallpapering, made of different materials.

2) It is important to take into account not only what conditions will be in it after the repair, but also what humidity and temperature regime will be maintained at the facility during the priming of the walls. If for some reason it is not possible to organize airing, then it is advisable to opt for soils that do not emit substances harmful to health when applied.

4) Before buying a primer, be sure to ask the seller to present a certificate confirming the quality and sanitary and hygienic safety of the goods. Now counterfeits are very rare, but "hedge" never hurts. You can also smell the product - if it emits a strong smell of ordinary PVA glue, then most likely it is a fake (with the exception of primers made with the addition of PVA).

Finally, do not seek to buy the cheapest primer, especially if you have started a major overhaul and purchased expensive wallpaper. It is better to give your preference to primer mixes from the middle or high price category from reputable manufacturers.

Preparing the surface of the walls for pasting is quite simple. This task will be mastered by any novice in construction, the main thing is to follow the recommended sequence of actions:

For the successful treatment of walls with impregnation, it is recommended to ensure the temperature and humidity conditions in the room. To perform work, temperatures from 5 to 30 ° C are allowed, and humidity - up to 75%.
The entire tool is prepared before starting work.
Before priming, old wallpaper and paint should be removed from the walls. To do this, use a spatula and hot water. If the old coating is difficult to remove, you can use special solutions to remove wallpaper.
The cleaned surface is checked for cracks and irregularities, which are corrected with a putty, followed by the application of leveling solutions.
In a bucket or other container, thoroughly stir (with a mixer or by hand) ready-made solutions or prepare a primer according to the instructions. If you plan to paste over the walls with wallpaper for painting, it is allowed to add appropriate pigment compositions to the ground, which will create a better base that does not contrast with the main color of the coating.
Hard-to-reach places (corners, wall-to-ceiling abutment) are first treated with a ready-made solution with a brush.
The main area is covered with a roller. For ease of use, the primer is poured into a bath with a cuvette.
Re-processing is possible after the final drying of the previous layer. For high-quality preparation for pasting, it is enough to process the surface twice.

It is worth noting that there are quite a lot of primer mixtures on the market, and they differ significantly in composition, purpose, and cost. But there are four types of them. These are glyphthalic, alkyd, perchlorovinyl and acrylic. If you do not know how to prime the walls before gluing the wallpaper, the material should be selected based on the characteristics of the surface to be pasted.

Alkyd mixes are ideal for wood, but not particularly good for plastered surfaces. This means that if you have to glue on fiberboard, chipboard or other surface of this kind, then get this type of soil. The most popular and relatively low-cost formulations are Tikkurila primers.

Glyphtal is suitable for both wood and plaster. But it has one drawback - it dries for a day. The most popular formulations are GF-021 and Ecol.

Perchlorvinyl primers, as a rule, are not used at all under wallpaper, since they are used more for outdoor work.

Acrylics are versatile, dry quickly and are ideal for our purposes. The most common brands are Ceresit, Snezhka and Pufas. So, if you do not know how to prime the walls under the wallpaper, get one of the acrylic mixtures - you will definitely not go wrong.

Wall priming is a preparatory stage for surface treatment before gluing. This remedy has a firming effect. It is a mistake to think that it is needed only in order to enhance the quality of the glue: this product has a broader effect.

It is a protective film that really helps to improve the adhesion of the wallpaper gluing surface. However, it not only promotes bonding: depending on the type, this tool also evens out the walls, making them uniform in structure.

There is a wide range of primers on the modern construction market.

By the type of solubility, primers are:

based on organic acids (alkyd resins, polyurethane, latex);
water-dispersion, which can be diluted with water (acrylic, latex, silicate, silicone);
mineral (based on lime, gypsum, cement).

By appointment, they are:

universal;
specialized;
antifungal;
insulating;
strengthening.

Consistency matters. Usually the transparent composition is more liquid. The white analogue has a higher viscosity and density. The consistency determines the penetrating ability.

Liquid transparent compounds strengthen the outer layer of the wall and bind dust. Among these varieties, you can find solutions with special additives, through which alkalis can be quenched. The price of such primers is reasonable.

Compared to their denser counterparts, their penetrating power is 25% higher. The disadvantage of such a primer is the heterogeneity of the application: when processing the surface, it is not visible which area is already covered with a primer. As a result, the part on which there is more soil gives itself away with gloss. Inhomogeneity is dangerous because the adhesion when gluing wallpaper will be different.

Thick primers, unlike liquid varieties, are able to adjust the surface of the walls before wallpapering. They eliminate small irregularities, have an antistatic effect, quench alkalis, creating a smooth film. Filling the micropores, they paint the wall surface, so that the entire treated surface is visible during processing.

Its penetrating power is lower, such a primer is good for walls with a homogeneous structure without visible defects. The smoothness that this primer creates is convenient for plaster and thin wallpaper, as well as photo wallpaper. Such a primer will not work for liquid wallpaper.

The primed wall is made even and dry, the primer increases the reliability of adhesion of the adhesive to the surface. A good primer ensures that the bottom layer stays intact and does not crack, and it also prevents moisture from absorbing into the walls.
The primer applied to the wall allows it to "breathe", thereby creating a good microclimate and preventing the spread of the fungus. Do not think that the wallpaper will stick well on the wall even without a primer, this is a huge delusion.
The primer strengthens the outside of the wall and penetrates inside. It simply fills in cracks and pores in the surface. It strengthens the bonding of surfaces and extends the life of the wallpaper (see Wall decoration with wallpaper in the correct design). This is one of the main parameters why the walls are primed for wallpapering

Preparation

What kind of wallpaper is suitable?

With the right choice, the primer will prepare the surface for gluing different types of wallpaper. Paper, vinyl, non-woven and textile wallpapers on paper and non-woven backing will adhere especially firmly to the prepared surface.

However, it should be borne in mind: re-gluing wallpaper, if necessary, requires reapplying the primer. Will stick well to the walls and fiberglass. Such a surface can be renewed by painting, which is convenient if you want to update the wallpaper background or mask dirt.

Liquid wallpaper will adhere better to the surface without dripping down when applied with a spray gun. It is important to consider: first, the walls are cleaned, only then they are treated with soil. Other options that bond well with a primer include cork and bamboo. Self-adhesive PVC is glued deadly.

Application

It is not difficult to apply a primer to the walls with your own hands.

To do this correctly, you should read a small instruction:

Initially, you need to prepare the tool for work. If the soil needs to be diluted, use room temperature water. It can only be diluted with water if the aqueous type of solvent is indicated on the package.
It is necessary to dilute the product until a homogeneous structure is obtained. This is especially true for the material of the concentrated type. For such a soil, you need to prepare a separate container.

If necessary, white color can be added to the composition. If it is necessary to tint the primer under the wallpaper, it is undesirable to use beige, pink or another color: they will distort the original color of the wallpaper.
It is worth pouring the primer into the container in parts. Firstly, the abundance of liquid will interfere with uniform application to the surface of the walls (ceiling). Secondly, in the process of work, there should be no primer left: at the bottom of the container, in any case, there will be dust particles, specks, which should not be poured into a common canister.

In the arsenal of an experienced master there is a spray gun, by means of which the time for priming the walls is halved. At the same time, it is much easier to process hard-to-reach places (for example, slopes). It is easier for a beginner to apply the composition with a roller. To do this, the roller is lowered into a container with a working solution, moistened in the ground, and lightly rolled inside the container.

There should not be a lot of soil, otherwise it will flow along the roller, then along the handle and flood the floor surface before it hits the desired plane. Economy is also unacceptable: if the composition is small, it will not be able to penetrate the walls properly, therefore, it will not strengthen the base.

You can orient yourself like this: if the soil does not pour in a stream and does not drip, you can process the surfaces. If it is planned to wallpaper the ceiling, the processing becomes somewhat more complicated: you need less composition and more rolling on the surface.

When processing the main walls, use a roller. It is lightly pressed to the surface, rolling several times in one place, evenly distributing the composition.

Fluid must not run down walls or drip from the ceiling. The soil layer should not be dense. In hard-to-reach places (corners, slopes) use a brush.

Where it is difficult to reach with an ordinary brush, take a small one. The use of brushes allows you to save primer and process difficult areas as accurately as possible. At the end of the working process, the instruments and containers are thoroughly washed. The second layer of soil is applied only after the first one has dried.

Drying time

The drying time of the primer depends on its type and density of the solution, as well as the place of application, the temperature in the room and even the season. On average, the primer dries from 12 to 24 hours.

Some varieties dry faster: this process can take 5-6 hours. Usually, the manufacturer indicates the drying time on each package of the composition, so that the buyer knows this in advance before purchasing.

For example, acrylic varieties dry for about 24 hours (one layer), quartz analogs need less time, mineral ones also need several hours.

Shellac, containing alcohol, dry quickly. However, the masters believe that, despite the assurances of the sellers, such primers need at least 10-12 hours for the film on the surface of the walls to be as strong as possible.

The same can be said about alkyd compositions: it is better to wait 12-14 hours and only after that do wallpapering, laying tiles, water-based paint, if the design provides for it. The process can be accelerated, but methods for accelerating drying have not only advantages but also disadvantages. Experienced craftsmen have a heat gun for this.

To achieve the best result, it is necessary not only to properly apply the primer to the walls, but also to wait until it dries completely.

If you start gluing wallpaper ahead of time, then all the useful properties of the coating will not work, or, even worse, will lead to the opposite effect.

The fastest drying speed for an acrylic primer is a maximum of 5 hours. Oil primers need at least 24 hours to dry.

In addition, the rate of drying of each primer is influenced by indoor humidity and temperature. The primer dries especially for a long time at a humidity of 60%.

How long after priming the walls can wallpaper be glued? This question is being asked by many.

How to properly prime the walls with your own hands?

Before applying any primer, the walls should be thoroughly cleaned from the old coating and all loose elements should be removed (see photo).

Large chips and dents are sealed with putty, and after the putty you need to prime the wall. If the walls are porous, a liquid impregnation is first applied, and then a thicker composition is applied.

There are some features of the primer for gluing a certain type of wallpaper:

Under non-woven wallpaper. The walls are usually primed with white primer to ensure an even surface color, which will exclude dark spots from bleeding under a rather thin non-woven fabric. To dry the walls for pasting this type of wallpaper, you need to be especially careful.
For vinyl wallpaper. Deep penetration acrylic primer is recommended. Acrylic primers contain latex, which promotes better adhesion of heavy vinyl to wall surfaces.
Under liquid wallpaper. To cover the walls with liquid wallpaper, it is recommended to cover them with a transparent emulsion or white primer. The primer is applied in two layers with an intermediate exposure of at least five hours. If the wall is smooth, then a primer for liquid wallpaper should be with quartz dust, to give the surface some roughness. This quality is necessary for uniform application of the wallpaper layer.

You can make a similar primer yourself by adding clean river sand or marble (quartz) dust.

Do-it-yourself wall priming video instruction.

Review of popular brands

Belinka. Deep penetration primer. Smoothes the surface, improves the adhesion of the coating. Provides an even color. Suitable for all types of plaster, brick, concrete, drywall.
Tiefengrund Knauf. It is used on hygroscopic substrates. Penetrates deep into the surface, prevents shattering and cracking, creates a breathable layer. Not suitable for damp rooms, as it does not isolate water vapor.
Livna. Strengthening impregnation.
Cleo. Transparent, water-borne primer. Contains antiseptics that protect walls from mold.
Ivsil. Latex primer recommended for drywall, brick, cement plaster. The composition includes antiseptics.

Priming the walls according to all the rules before gluing the wallpaper will allow you to achieve an ideal result. No streaks will appear on the walls, and the pasted wallpaper will not fall off or creep, which means that you will admire the results of your labor for a long time.

Choosing between the right type of surface, each craftsman has his own preferences based on the quality of the material and its properties. Experienced professionals can use two types of primer. When processing the surface before gluing the wallpaper for the first time, level the structure of the walls with a transparent mixture. After that, another (white) primer is applied: it is the final stage of preparation for facing.

Based on their experience, masters recommend starting from the thickness of the wallpaper when choosing a primer. Deep penetrating compositions are able to keep particularly durable wallpaper canvases on the wall surface. These varieties include structural heavy varieties. For example, two-layer vinyl models or versions for painting: with each layer of such wallpaper, the thickness will increase. Due to the soil, you can not worry about it: the wallpaper will stay on the walls for up to 20-30 years.

With regard to liquid wallpaper, the situation is different. To keep them firmly on the plane of the walls or ceiling, you need a primer with quartz. Varieties that form a smooth surface are not suitable for them.

The structure of liquid wallpaper is such that for a secure grip it needs to hold on to something. For such wallpaper, it is not necessary to perfectly align the planes: the primer can be applied to an unplastered surface, while the roughness is important. This way the mass will cling to grains of sand, and it will be easier to smear it on the walls.

The mixture is diluted in small portions. This will not only exclude an excess of the solution, but will also help to ensure that the composition is always clean during the priming process. The prepared solution is used on the same day. It is unacceptable to store such a composition, as it loses its properties.

If you need to apply liquid to the plaster, do not dilute it additionally: the cement-sand mortar is highly absorbent. This treatment will take a very long time to dry, which will delay the drying time.

If, during the processing of the walls, the primer falls on a plane that cannot be finished, it is necessary to immediately wipe it with a cloth soaked in water. If the tools are not washed immediately, the bristles and coat of the roller will harden at the same time as the primer dries.

It will not be possible to return them to their former softness; for subsequent work, you will have to buy new brushes and a fur coat. If there is furniture in the room that cannot be taken out (for example, drawers in a kitchen set), cover it with a wide plastic wrap, which can be purchased at a hardware store.

Experts recommend buying a primer in larger quantities or in concentrated form. As a rule, when processing walls before gluing wallpaper, it will take much more than indicated by the manufacturer. The number of soil layers matters: craftsmen pay attention to the fact that walls made of concrete, brick, fiberboard, drywall can be primed no more than 2 times before gluing the wallpaper.

If the wall is wooden, two layers may not be enough. However, this does not mean that the surface can be poured abundantly with mortar. Better to apply several thin coats.

The use of a primer is convenient because the wall does not get dirty. When gluing wallpaper, stains will not appear on it. To eliminate the formation of lumps during stirring, you can use a construction drill with a special nozzle. You can start pasting when the surface stops sticking.

Priming the walls under the wallpaper: why and how it is done

There is a primer for walls under wallpaper in retail, and they themselves make it quite often. But many are wondering whether it is necessary to prime the walls before gluing the wallpaper, and if so, how to prime the walls before gluing the wallpaper. Our article will be devoted to this topic. You can watch photos and videos on this topic and get the job done right.

Preparation

The priming of the walls is carried out after all the initial stages of work, including the removal of nails and old plaster.
The primer is applied after applying the putty, which has time to dry.
The priming of the walls begins with the fact that the wall is moistened with a special impregnation. This is necessary in order to wash off the dirt and dust that remains after rough surface treatment, because wallpaper cannot be glued to a dirty wall.
Everyone knows that before, newspapers were first glued to the wall and wallpaper was already on them, but now the primer has forever replaced the printed matter.
After the primer has dried, the wall does not get dirty and becomes stronger than before. Thus, the wallpaper falls flat on the wall and stays firmly and for a very long time.
If you got a wall that was previously covered with wallpaper, you need to remove it and wash off the glue. This is done with a metal spatula or a scraper and water.

Attention: If the wallpaper does not absorb moisture well and does not lag well behind the wall, then cuts should be made on the wallpaper for better moisture penetration. Nowadays, shops sell a special liquid that quickly removes wallpaper. This liquid is added to a bucket of water and wet the wall, leaving it soaked for half an hour. After half an hour, wet the wall again and easily remove the old wallpaper from the wall.

When the wallpaper is removed, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the wall with warm water and clean the wall surface with a wide spatula from glue and whitewash.
Often in rooms with high humidity, such as a kitchen or bathroom, mold collects in the corners. This mold must be removed so that it does not appear on the newly repaired wall.
Places where mold has settled should be treated with bleach. Typically, 200 grams of lime is required per liter of water. It should be noted that when pasting places where mold was located, glue must be purchased with a fungicide content.
After removing old wallpaper, glue and mold, you need to meticulously inspect the surface of the walls. Any cracks and irregularities found must be filled. If your apartment is not warm enough, you can make it warmer with a thin layer of Styrofoam. This method will not only make the apartment warmer, but also hide wall defects.
Before priming the ceiling, you need to get rid of the hook, holes and cracks properly by filling them. If the ceiling consists of plasterboard, gypsum or other porous surface, then it must be primed in any case.

Working with a primer

Now we decide how to prime the walls before gluing the wallpaper. There are a lot of materials in retail, some just use PVA glue. The priming of the walls is also done before gluing the wallpaper with the glue that will be used when gluing the material itself, for this it is simply made more liquid.

Therefore, it is up to you personally to decide how to prime the walls under the wallpaper. Just before that, the instructions for using the primer should be carefully studied, it just can be for different surfaces. Although all of it is applied completely by hand.

It is better to dilute the primer in a bucket. The primer is different and before diluting it, you must read the instructions on the package.
Stir the mixture well so that no lumps remain. To stir the solution, you can use a drill with a mixer attachment, in this case a very good composition is obtained. Manually, this quality of the composition is difficult to achieve.
The primer is applied with a wide brush. This is very similar to whitewashing a ceiling (see Ceiling cladding: types of material). Spreading an even layer of composition on the wall, avoiding unevenness and untreated areas.
After you have primed the wall for the first time, you need to give it time to dry. Drying times are usually written on the packaging. Even if by your standards the wall surface looks perfect after the first primer, you still need a second coat of primer.
Much depends on the quality of the wall on which the primer is applied, which can be impregnated in different ways on the same wall. When re-primed, the quality will be excellent and there will be no difference. On a completely flat wall, you can work with a paint roller, it is much more convenient and smoother than working with a brush.