Do-it-yourself timber bath - chic water procedures and a great mood are guaranteed! Bath from a bar: construction features How to fold a bath from a bar 150x150

Since ancient times, a wooden bathhouse in Russia has been the best place for resting body and soul. With some experience in performing construction work, it is not difficult to independently build a private steam room on your site. Let's figure out how to do this.

Choosing the right timber - an overriding task

Classic baths are traditionally built from various wood materials. Buildings for taking water procedures from rounded logs are very popular. They are distinguished by high reliability and durability. But the cost of building such steam rooms is quite high. A reasonable alternative to expensive structures is a timber bath, which is easy to build with your own hands. According to most parameters, it will not differ in any way from the steam rooms built from logs. At the same time, the cost of building an excellent bathhouse will be significantly reduced.

When erecting the structure under consideration from a bar, we have to go through many stages. But the first and really important one is the process of choosing a wood material. All the operational properties of the bath will depend on the quality of the purchased products. A bar for your own steam room should visually look flawlessly even and smooth. The presence on wood is not allowed:

1. 1. Explicit geometric flaws and distortions. Such defects significantly complicate the process of assembling the frame crowns. In some cases, it is simply impossible to build a high-quality steam room from a bar with flaws.
2. 2. Insignificant (at first glance) cracks. Products with such defects will begin to expand during natural shrinkage of the bath. This will lead to a change in the appearance of the building and rotting of the wood.
3. 3. Blue spots. If there are any on the bar, immediately discard the material offered to you. It is not suitable for construction work. The presence of blue spots indicates that there is a fungus in the logs, which causes the wood to rot.
4. 4. Traces of bugs and wormholes.

Timber harvested in winter is considered ideal for the construction of a steam room. The timber must be left to rest for 1–1.5 months, and then processed accordingly. The species of wood from which the logs are made is also of great importance. It is recommended to use larch products for laying the first few crowns of the building. During use, this wood increases its hardness, it is not subject to decay, and is not afraid of a humid environment. But all subsequent crowns are best collected from cedar, spruce or pine products. They have an affordable cost, which is important, and also have high heat and water protection capabilities.

The timber can be solid and profiled. The material of the first type is characterized by a not very presentable appearance. Buildings made of solid products have to be additionally clad outside with a block house or siding. Profiled logs are much more aesthetically pleasing. In addition, they have carefully polished crown grooves and spikes along the entire length. Due to this, baths from a profiled bar are erected very quickly and with minimal labor costs.

For the construction of the outer box of the structure of interest to us, it is advisable to use products with a section of 15x15 cm.And it is generally recommended to erect the first row of the bathhouse using a 20x20 cm beam.It is on this part of the building that the maximum load will be exerted. Internal partitions are usually made of 15x10 cm logs.

We develop a project and build a foundation - a beautiful bathhouse for centuries!

Having decided to get your own bathhouse, you should choose a place for it on your site. The finished building should be functional and comfortable. Therefore, it must be erected not very far from the house, but also too close to it. The optimal distance from a residential building to a bathhouse is about 5 m. Also pay attention to the level of occurrence of groundwater and the general dampness of the soil in the selected place.

The drier the land, the stronger and more durable the steam room will be.

Having dealt with the place, we proceed to drawing up the project of the bath. At this stage, you can show your imagination with might and main. Use ready-made drawings, make your own sketches. It is not difficult to design a very simple structure with several rooms and a larger structure, for example, the following types:

• With a small open veranda (terrace). The construction of such a bath from a bar is ideal for cases when you have a barbecue in the yard of your house, a stationary stove for frying food in the fresh air. The latter, by the way, can be placed directly on the terrace under construction.
• With attic and terrace. An excellent option for those who often receive guests and invites them to have a good time in the steam room. After bathing procedures, you can sit on the veranda sipping healing herbal tea. And put beds in the attic and invite guests to spend the night in a cozy summer bedroom.
• With a porch. Such a bathhouse will tell everyone that you are a fan of Russian traditions. On the porch, you can have tea drinking, admire nature. Isn't this real happiness?
• With a closed veranda. The glazed and insulated terrace can be used not only in summer, but also in autumn. Such a veranda can be easily adapted for a bedroom, a room for playing billiards or table tennis.

After drawing up and approving the project, we purchase the required amount of material and proceed to pouring the base for our own steam room. The foundation for the bath can be made columnar or tape. Both of them are quite reliable and can withstand the load from the lumber steam room without any problems. For the arrangement of the columnar base on the sections of the bearing internal walls, at the corners of the building and around its entire perimeter, it is necessary to put brick supports. Then pour a concrete pad under them. It will eliminate the risk of poles sinking. In this case, the distance between the individual supporting elements is taken within the range of 150-200 cm. The specific value depends on the mass of the structure being erected. The heavier it is, the more often the posts need to be placed.

For the construction of the strip foundation, you need to make a formwork of boards around the perimeter of the planned building and fill the structure with concrete. The main thing here is to reliably protect the bath from dampness. For this, the height of the foundation from the ground surface should be taken at least 150–170 cm. Important! Regardless of the type of foundation to be poured, we reinforce it with reinforcing bars (section - 1–1.2 cm), install special embedded elements (needed to fix the first wooden crown of the building) and be sure to waterproof the area between the first crown of the steam room and the basement.

We carry out moisture protection according to the following scheme. First, we heat the bitumen to a fluid consistency. We process the basement with this composition. Then we put several layers of roofing material on top (optimally - 3). Moreover, between separate sheets of waterproofing material, we also apply a molten bitumen composition.

Assembling the structure - follow the instructions and everything will work out!

It is not difficult to build a bathhouse from a properly prepared timber with your own hands, if you adhere to all the rules for its construction. To begin with, we take the building level and analyze the horizontal surface of the logs for evenness, which will be used to assemble the first crown. Recall that we are building it from a 20x20 cm bar. We need to make sure that the logs are perfectly flat. If the first crown is installed flawlessly, the whole wooden structure will turn out to be perfect without exaggeration.

Construction begins with the assembly of the first crown

We install the first crown as follows. We install thin (1.5 cm thick) wood slats treated with an antiseptic around the entire foundation plinth. These products will protect the first row of the timber from rotting, due to which the overall service life of the bathhouse will increase. The step of laying the slats is 0.25–0.3 m. Experts advise blowing out the spaces between them with polyurethane foam. Then we mount the timber on a concrete base. We first apply machine oil or any antiseptic composition to wood products. The first bar can be fixed. Or it is possible not to fix it, since the subsequent rows will give it sufficient reliability due to its mass.

We build a bathhouse from a wooden bar further. Install the next two rows. It is not necessary to lay the logs too tightly, since after construction the bath will naturally shrink. Next, we fasten the crowns of different rows with metal pins or wooden pins. These hardware are driven into prepared holes. The latter are drilled so that the tool passes the entire upper beam (through and through) and additionally captures another half of the lower product. We need:

• drill holes (the distance between them is 100–150 cm) according to the specified requirement;
• remove the upper beam;
• drive the pins into the holes;
• lay insulating material;
• put the upper bar in place.

All crowns are mounted and fixed in the same way. Important! It is not necessary to fasten the two upper rims when erecting walls. We will need to dismantle them for a while in the process of laying the ceiling beams. Moss, tow or jute are usually used as insulation placed between the logs. There is a small nuance here. If thermal insulation is carried out with moss and tow, after shrinkage of the structure, it will be necessary to caulk all the gaps that appear. But when using jute, such an operation does not need to be performed. It is enough to fix it with small nails or staples of a construction stapler.

The bars are allowed to be fastened together in other ways. You can use nails without heads. They are usually called submerged. They do not rust, as they are completely immersed in the wood, which means they do not spoil the beams. Some craftsmen fix wooden products with Sila hardware. It is a screw with a compression spring integrated into it. This design of the fastener ensures that there are no gaps between the beams due to their maximum pressing against each other. Force hardware eliminates the risk of operational deformation of the bath and the occurrence of cracks. But the cost of this fastener is quite high.

When erecting walls, do not forget to leave small gaps in the areas where windows and doors will then be installed. After the structure has shrunk in the marked places, it will be necessary to saw through the required openings using a chainsaw. Installation of door frames and window structures can theoretically be done during the construction of a steam room. But this is risky. Indeed, after the structure has shrunk, they can change their geometry.

Final stages of work - we cover the roof and create coziness inside

When the walls of the structure are completely finished, we cover the blockhouse with boards (four centimeters in thickness). And on top we lay a layer of roofing material on them. The building should be in this state for 6-8 months. During this time, the bathhouse will completely sit down, which will allow us to continue construction work.

Six months later, we cut through the windows and doors according to the method described above. And then we start to build the roof. The type of this design depends on the type of bath. If a steam room with an attic was built, we equip it. This option is easy to implement. Under the gable roof, you can organize a well-ventilated and well-insulated attic in which any room is equipped, from a playroom to a summer-autumn living room.

If a simple bathhouse was being built without an additional level, it is easier to make an elementary roof. You just need to make a frame from wooden beams according to the parameters of the structure, and cut out rafters from the timber. There are little things left. We install the frame, mount the rafters on it (there should be a lattice), we carry out the final finishing of the roof. For the last operation, we use any suitable material. It can be sheets of roofing material, metal tiles, profiled sheets, and other products.

The final stage of work is the internal arrangement of the bath. Recommended:

1. 1. Install the stove, overlay it with decorative mosaics or natural stone.
2. 2. Cover the inside of the ceiling surface of the bathhouse using foil. In this case, fertile hot steam will stay indoors for a very long time.
3. 3. Sheathe the interior walls with a suitable material. It is most rational to use a wooden lining. It can be installed without any problems and has decent performance properties.
4. 4. Make and install shelves.

Your personal sauna is ready for use. Enjoy every trip to it!

How to make a bathhouse with your own hands from a bar, because its construction is a serious and time-consuming business. In order not to get into a mess, you should be well armed with the knowledge and advice of experienced builders.

Wooden bathhouse from a bar

First you need to decide on the choice of material from which the structure will be erected. You can build a bathhouse with your own hands from a bar. Today this material has won the recognition of numerous fans and is praised for it.

Why is the construction of a bath from a bar preferable? For a beginner in carpentry, the most acceptable option for building a bath with this material.

In addition to the low price, it has a number of undoubted advantages in relation to logs, both solid and round:

• It is much easier to build from this material. If there is an assistant, there is no need to attract hired specialists, since the technology of logging a bath from a bar is simple and does not require carpentry skills.
• When building log baths, it is possible to buy additional material as the buildings are being erected - the construction process will not suffer from this. This is a big plus, as some material can be rejected during sorting and further preparation.
• It will be much more economical to build a bathhouse from a bar, as opposed to building a log bathhouse or assembling ready-made log cabins. It is not recommended to purchase rounded log cabins of baths, since they are not durable and after several seasons of use they reveal a number of hidden defects.
• The beam is also convenient in that it allows you to design complex structures. The sizes can be very different. When using various methods of knitting parts, you can build not only small buildings, but also carry out grandiose projects.
• In terms of shrinkage, wooden baths from a bar give a significant head start to their counterparts from logs. It is only 5-10 cm. So you will not be surprised that the bathhouse has become half a meter lower.

How to choose a timber

When building a bath from a bar with your own hands, it is assumed that it will serve for a long time, and will not be a craft for several years. Therefore, you need to choose the raw material for the material with all seriousness. If possible, raw materials should be prepared in winter and rest for at least a year.

This is explained by the following arguments:

• The durability of wood directly depends on the concentration of resin and natural antiseptics. In the "winter" raw materials of such substances and elements are an order of magnitude higher than in the "summer".
• There are more easily digestible organic substances in the raw materials collected in summer or autumn, so it is more vulnerable to various microorganisms that cause decay.
• In tsarist Russia, and before the beginning of the Second World War, the forest was harvested only in winter, it was left to lie down for at least one year and only then was it sent for processing.

It should be noted that the preferred choice of pine raw materials for the construction of a wooden bath from a bar is due to the fact that it has a lower heat transfer compared to larch. As for the latter, in former times the ancestors used it instead of a foundation or laid out a crown from it in unheated buildings.

Sorting and sizing material

In order for a do-it-yourself bath from a bar to stand for several decades and be used by children and grandchildren, you need to be scrupulous about sorting the material. It is necessary to carefully reject timber unsuitable for construction. Of course, there is nothing eternal in the Middle Kingdom, but following simple rules, you can increase the life of a building as much as possible.

The following material should not be used:

• Wood with deep cracks is excluded, as it is the first candidate for decay in the near future. This wood is best used for other purposes.
• On the surface of the timber there are obvious signs of decay, even if they are small. Recognized visually. The presence of blue on the tree is a clear sign of the onset of rotting. Blue should not be removed, this method only removes this external sign for a short time.
• If the wood is attacked by insects, there are traces of the vital activity of various bugs: wormholes or holes leading into the tree - this means that the tree is infected, and it is unlikely that the pests will be able to lime the pests.

Those who have come across working with wood know that it is quite difficult to find the ideal material in this area. In most cases, either the production technology or storage conditions are violated - all this leaves its mark. If, when sorting the material, a curved specimen comes across, it should not be used in the building - no one needs the slots in the steam room.

End locks and notches

The connection of structural elements is the main thing in wooden buildings.

There are more than two hundred options for knitting parts, popularly called cuts and locks. Nodes are of the following types: end, angular T or L -shaped, cruciform.

• End connection is called a connection in which the part is built up along its length. In this case, knitting is done with smooth overlays or serrated, using thorns. For additional rigidity, they are treated with glue, bolts, wedges or spikes.
• T-knots are formed when one end of the bar is connected to the middle of the other.
• Cross connections are called connections of parts at oblique or right angles. Usually they use knits with a straight overlay in a half-tree and with a landing in one nest;
• Angular connections are those in which knitting is carried out by the ends of two parts. The ends of the beams are processed with through and non-through spikes. They can also use a half-wood overlay.

There is no need to use complex knots for knitting bath parts. Simple options are suitable for her, easily performed with a chainsaw. To speed up and simplify the process of making cuttings, use templates to mark them.

Practical part - techniques and methods of execution

After the foundation is established, it must be prepared for waterproofing. For this, a waterproofing mastic, for example, bitumen, is applied to the surface. I lay strips of roofing material or any other analogue of it. It is recommended to repeat this operation.

Now the most important thing begins - we are building a bath from a bar. We proceed to the installation of the crown - its first two rows will consist of a bar measuring 200x200. Subsequently, a bar 150x150 is used. In the details, cuts must be made in advance. The bottom row of the crown is pretreated with machine working or another antiseptic.

You only need to process the side of the timber, which will lie on the foundation. It is not necessary to fasten the bottom row to the foundation: the crown will be securely fixed under the weight of the constructed structure. In addition, if it is necessary to replace it in the future, this task will be easier to accomplish.

Insulation is laid on the first row of the crown. In hardware stores, special strips are sold for these purposes - tape jute. You can also use the materials used by our ancestors: tow and moss. The insulation is laid with an overlap so that it hangs down a little, no overlap should be made more than 10 cm - in the future, this excess will be used for caulking.

After laying the second row of the crown, it is necessary to secure it with metal pins or wooden pins. For this, bore holes are drilled for the diameter of the fastener. Drilling can be done both preliminarily and locally.

Subsequent rows are stacked and secured in a similar way. It is not necessary to fasten the two upper beams of the bath with pins or dowels, this is done only after the structure has shrunk.

Windows and doors - we make openings

Openings for windows and doors are made in two ways:

• The first way provides for the installation of door and window frames during the construction of a log house. This method is more time consuming. The lumber is laid taking into account the dimensions of the boxes. For the installation of door frames on the beams, cuts-thorns are made.
• Second option provides for the implementation of openings after the construction of a log house. This method is more rational, since cutting is done after the frame shrinks. For the execution of this option, it is necessary to provide cuts in the timber, which facilitate sawing out door and window openings.

The choice of the method is individual, however, when using the first option, negative consequences are possible. When the bath shrinks, door and window frames can be skewed.

In the second option, the openings are made after the shrinkage of the log house for the next year and the distortions in this case are no longer terrible.

Caulking the cracks, only the erected building, is not required, since the frame must first shrink: settle for six months

After the log house of the bathhouse is ready, it is prepared for "wintering". To do this, thick boards are laid on it and roofing material, slate or other similar material is placed on them.

Thermal insulation of a wooden bath

After the frame has shrunk, the construction of the bath continues. The next step is to caulk the cracks.

This process requires a hammer and caulk (wood or metal). Work is carried out with dry material, if the tow is wet, then the work must be postponed for its complete drying. If tow or moss acts as a heater, they are twisted into a bundle and, with the help of a tool, they are pushed into the cracks between the bars. In the case of using tape jute, it is not necessary to caulk. Its ends are attached to the tree with a stapler.

The construction of the bathhouse from the timber is almost completed, it remains only to raise the roof, install the necessary equipment, complete the decoration and you can wash.

Do-it-yourself bath from a bar: construction, how to build, we build a log house of a bar-shaped wooden bath, how to make

Do-it-yourself bath from a bar 100x100 or 150x150

During construction, most people prefer natural materials, namely wood. Bar at all times was in great demand among connoisseurs of baths, it is safe for health, practical in collection and elegant. This article will help you understand the features of building a building from a profiled beam with your own hands, and also tell you about some options for the construction of this structure.

How to choose the right timber

Before buying a tree for construction, you need to know certain features that you should pay attention to before purchasing material.

• You need to carefully examine the tree. There should be no cracks on it, the timber can quickly deteriorate.
• It is unnecessary to purchase material with dark spots. Spots often indicate a decay process.
• It is worth abandoning logs with traces of a bark beetle, the presence of wormholes.
• The low cost of the material may indicate its low quality.

High-quality material will allow you to build a beautiful structure and do it in a short time. When building, it is necessary to do everything in stages, not to rush so that the result meets all expectations.

How to prepare a bar yourself

Wood is a natural and expensive material, the price in Russia for a timber of size 150/150/6000 ranges from 7000 to 9000 rubles. You can prepare a log house yourself, mainly in winter.

After the cut, the tree should lie down for some time, one month is enough. After that, you need to carefully examine the trunks and select high-quality ones, without black spots (rot), traces of bark beetle.

Then we start cleaning the bars. The first step is to remove the bark, but not all of it. Leave about 15 cm of bark on both sides, this is necessary to prevent crackling. The workpieces must be folded on a hill so that the logs do not come into contact with the ground, at a distance of at least 5 cm from each other.

Before choosing a material, you need to pay attention to both deciduous trees and conifers. It is better to lay logs from deciduous trees on the lower rows when building a bath, and above conifers - they have better thermal insulation.

How to draw up a project for a future bath

The technology of building a bath should begin with drawing up a project. The project will allow you to calculate to the smallest detail the characteristic nuances of this room.

Bath project example

An accurate plan allows you to save finances, thanks to the documentation, the owner will be able to accurately calculate the amount of all materials that he may need for construction.

When drawing up a project, consider the main nuances:

• The number of people who will be in the steam room at the same time should be at least 4m 2 per person;
• The location of the structure plays an important role, if there is a lake or river nearby, then it is better to design a bathhouse near the reservoir;
• What materials, in addition to the timber itself, will you use for construction. They must be harmless (natural) for the body: stones for the steam room, moss, hemp for caulking logs.

Foundation construction

The foundation must have good resistance to various weather conditions (frost, snow, rain) and be durable. You can build a foundation on your own, without the help of professional builders.

The first step is to decide on the material of the foundation, the choice of which takes into account:

• Groundwater level at the site;
• Type of soil;
• If possible, it is necessary to calculate as accurately as possible the load that will affect the foundation. This includes the weight of the building itself, the equipment inside the building, the total weight of people who can be in the steam room at the same time;
• It is important to determine the depth of soil freezing in the winter season.

When building a bath, several types of foundations are often used:

Tape base

This type of foundation is a classic option; it is used to build a bath and other structures.

The strip foundation is:

The first is a monolith tape, it is located along the entire base of the perimeter of the future bath with bridges in the middle serving as a support for the load-bearing walls of the building. The very process of this foundation is digging a trench and laying a deck. Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay metal reinforcement.

A prefabricated strip foundation can be erected if there is an access road near the future bath. Mobile concrete blocks weigh quite a lot; cranes are used for this.

Foundation pillars

This foundation is often used in flooded areas, for the sake of economy - as it does not require the use of a large amount of materials.

To erect a foundation with pillars, it is necessary to dig at least 6 identical holes around the perimeter of the future structure. After that, a concrete solution is poured mainly with admixtures of stone, thereby pillars are erected. The distance between the supports must be at least 1.5 meters.

The columnar foundation evenly distributes the weight of the structure and can support a building with multiple floors. Foundation posts prevent water ingress in case of flooding.

Pile foundation

Piles are often used in areas with a sloping slope.

If there is no time and opportunity to correct the slope on the site, then screw piles come to the rescue. They can be installed without difficulty, for several men in just 3 days.

The screw pile looks like a rod, it is hollow and made of durable metal. The upper layer of the rod is coated with a special anti-corrosion agent, so that when screwing in (when scratches are formed), corrosion does not occur.

Laying the first crowns

After the construction and complete drying of the foundation, you can start laying the first crowns, it is not difficult, the main thing is to use the building level.

The first step is to check the first log for evenness, for this you need to use a level (not by eye, as many do). A perfectly flat beam at the base is the key to the successful construction of the entire structure.

The first crown should be much thicker than all subsequent ones, all subsequent ones will be held on it. Experienced builders claim that the first crown should be with sections of 20/20 cm, and all the rest will be laid above it, with sections of 15/15 cm, no less.

It is necessary to lay the first crowns not on the foundation itself, but on pre-fixed wooden yards, 1.5 cm wide. This will prevent dampness and decay and increase the service life of its use.

Before folding the tree, you should know that you cannot do it tightly, over time it will shrink and swell a little. It is unnecessary to fix the lower bar - the pressure of all the higher rows provides it with a good fixation. If the lower frame of the bath needs to be replaced, then the disassembly of the entire structure is not required, and only the lower row needs to be removed.

Walling

If the beams for the walls have not been previously processed, then this should be done, for this the tree is covered with a special protective agent, prevents fire and protects against harmful insects. When choosing logs, it is worth giving preference to logs without knots, as this may require additional processing of the material.

Before assembling the walls, everyone should know - this can be done in two ways:

The laying of the beams with the remainder assumes the spacing of the ends of the logs beyond the horizontal surface. Without a trace, the log lies close to each other without protruding ends. Let's consider each step by step.

A bathhouse without the remnants of protruding logs requires less costs than with the remainder; the second one requires logs more than half a meter long than in the laying of the first method.

In construction practice, there are several ways to connect a log house with the remainder:

First option involves cutting a round bowl of the upper log, after which the next transverse log is placed in it.

Second option similar to the first, only the bowl is carved on the bottom of the log.

Third way has significant differences from the previous two. In this case, rectangular grooves are made on both sides for about a quarter of the length.

It is necessary to lay insulation on the first row, often moss or tow is used. After laying the second row, fix it, it can be done in two ways, using metal pins, wooden dowels.

Having laid all the crowns, you should know that the last few are not fixed, since they will eventually give styling. Ceiling beams are laid on top.

Caulking cracks

The construction of a bath involves caulking the cracks. Experts say that this is not necessary, since wooden structures, especially baths, swell, smoothing out the cracks. If you do not caulk the walls, then if you do not use the steam room for a long time, then the logs in it dry up, thereby decreasing, so you still need to caulk the cracks.

The material for caulking cracks must have the following qualities:

• Absorbs moisture well;
• Keep warm and allow air to pass through;
• Mold, insects should not form in it;
• The material must perfectly tolerate fluctuations in temperature conditions;
• It must be environmentally friendly.

Very often, materials such as linseed tow, marsh moss, tow, sphagnum or hemp hemp are used to caulk cracks in timber structures. All these materials absorb moisture well and protect the building from heat loss.

The roof for the steam room can be pitched or gable. For a 6x6 timber bath, a gable roof is often used, it perfectly suits the weather conditions of our country (under it you can place - an attic, an attic).

For a small steam room made of 6x3 timber, you can use a pitched roof; before installing it, you need to think about insulation in advance. Insulation can be done in two ways, namely with the use of mineral wool or foam. Mineral wool is much more expensive and more difficult to install. Polyfoam is much cheaper, its installation will take much less time.

Installation of doors and windows

The installation of doors and window frames can be done in parallel with the erection of the walls or after. Do not forget during construction that the bathhouse will settle down over time, so installing windows in parallel with the construction can be very risky.

When the building is ready, you can start installing the window frames. If the places previously left under the windows turned out to be smaller than the frame itself, then they can be cut with a chainsaw.

The windows for the steam room use plastic or wooden frames. As for the door, you should give preference to wood and when installing it should be remembered that even the treated surface of a tree, with increased moisture, swells, and if insufficient, it shrinks.

There must be a small threshold under the door made of wood, which will prevent heat loss. The handle on the door from the side of the steam room must be wooden, you can get burned from the metal.

Construction of a structure from a bar by professionals of a construction company. What is better to do it yourself or hire professionals?

Natural shrinkage, interior work

Decorating a bath from a bar inside should be done as soon as the structure is seated. After laying the upper side beams, the structure should be covered with slate and left for at least six months without operation, preferably in winter.

After six months, the coating is removed, then covered with a permanent roof, windows and doors are installed and internal work is carried out.

Useful tips for building a bath without the help of specialists

If you do not have practice in construction, then in this case, preference should be given to small baths, measuring 3.5 / 3.5 meters, a family of 3-4 people can fit in it, while its equipment can consist of a dressing room, washing and of course a steam room.

If your private area is small, then in this case the bathhouse can be combined with a utility room, very often the steam room is attached to the summer kitchen.

It is better to locate such a structure in the depths of the site, so that the neighbors do not interfere with your rest.

It is better for an inexperienced builder to give preference to a strip foundation, if the soil allows it.

Walls, both inside and outside, do not require a special coating, in extreme cases, this can be done with varnish, an antiseptic

Many people think that a bath is an expensive pleasure, moreover, from a double bar, that is, a natural expensive material. Not everyone thinks that you can make the blanks yourself on your own, and then build the steam room itself, thereby getting a full-fledged Russian bath from a natural bar cheaply, which will delight you for many years.

How to build a bathhouse from a bar with your own hands: video, technology, step-by-step instructions

Construction of a bath from a bar: the advantages of the material and the stages of the construction of a log house

In this article we will look at the construction of a bath from a bar. Why this particular material? Because for many centuries the tree has perfectly proven its superiority in this matter. And the timber is the most convenient in construction, but let's take a closer look at its advantages:

Photo of a sauna made of timber

Advantages of the material

1. Popularity. Thanks to this quality, it is easy and simple to find and most importantly choose a suitable project. The presence of many diagrams and drawings will greatly simplify the work with your own hands.

An example of a drawing of a sauna from a bar

1. A light weight. This means that a powerful foundation is not required, which makes it possible to significantly save money.
2. Simplicity of installation work. This building material is easy to assemble. And unlike logs, it can be collected immediately on the base, and not separately on a prepared site with subsequent transportation.
3. High heat-saving qualities. A very important point in the functioning of the steam room, which must perfectly keep the heat. Otherwise, there will be very high costs for fuel materials.

Poor insulation will lead to high wood consumption

1. Minimal shrinkage. That is, there will be practically no deformation changes under its own pressure.
2. Affordable price. Although wood is expensive in itself, there is a very large price difference between products with different levels of processing and between different tree species. So you can always find something for your budget.
3. Ecological cleanliness. The health benefits of the steam room will be even greater if you are surrounded by completely natural materials.

Harmony with nature

Due to the combination of all the above qualities, the construction of baths from a bar is very popular among the owners of their own suburban areas.

Construction works

The construction of a bathhouse from a bar begins not with earthworks, but with sorting ones. Because getting into the structure of low-quality material can lead to the most undesirable consequences.

Sorting

To protect yourself from unpleasant surprises in the future, you should postpone products with the following signs:

• Cracks of considerable depth. Such a bar can soon split completely.

Crack in wood

• The presence of fungus, traces of decay and insect pests. The process that has begun will bring its work to the end.

Blue stains on wood

• Deformations along the longitudinal axis. The timber must be flat and with a smooth surface. Otherwise, cracks will form in the masonry, which is absolutely unacceptable.

Advice: Immediately burn products affected by fungus or insects. Otherwise, there will be a threat of damage to the rest of the material. Deformed specimens can still be used in the base after careful processing.

Waterproofing

The instructions for installing logs on concrete presupposes high-quality waterproofing to protect the wood from moisture.

• Apply the melted bitumen with a brush or roller to the cement surface.

Foundation coated with bituminous composition

• On top, after the bitumen hardens, cover with a layer of roofing material.

Roofing material for waterproofing purposes

Preparing the timber

The most common and simple technology for building a bath from a bar consists in joining products using the "paw" method, that is, without a protruding part from the back side.

Variants of different ways of joining the timber

To successfully complete the work, it is necessary to create templates and make the proper cutouts on all wood products.

Pay extra attention to the details adjacent to the base. They should be treated with an antiseptic; to save money, you can use machine oil.

Erection of a log house

The construction of a bathhouse from a bar is a responsible business, especially the construction of a log house and proceeds as follows:

1. We put wooden slats on the surface of the foundation. This will prevent the timber from joining the base and create the necessary ventilation holes. That will significantly extend the life of the material, protecting it from the spread of mold and decay processes.
2. We mount the first crown:

• We install the timber on the slats.
• We carefully check its horizontal position. If there are even the slightest deviations, we correct them. Since the evenness and reliability of the rest of the structure depend on this element.
• We connect the beams of the base together.
• We blow out the space between the wood and the cement with polyurethane foam.

Advice: it is not worth fixing the lower crown with fasteners. For its stability, the gravity of the entire building will be enough.

Lower rims of a wooden frame

1. Create a layer of insulation on top of the crown.

The following materials are quite traditionally suitable for this:

Tow between timber products

Moss as insulation

In this case, tow and moss should be laid with a release on the sides of 10 cm in order to further compact the material tightly into the gaps between the beams. Jute, on the other hand, spreads flush with the width of the product and is nailed with staples of a construction stapler or steel nails.

1. Next, we install the beams with a section of 15 by 15 cm by analogy with the first ones. We fix them using pins or iron pins through the previously prepared unloading holes. Moreover, the more accurate the correspondence of the diameters of the holes with the diameters of the pins, the stronger the structure will be.
2. We do not fasten the last upper crown. The construction of log baths implies the possibility of their removal for the arrangement of ceiling beams.

Finished wooden walls

Arrangement of door and window openings

There are two ways to install window frames and door frames:

In this case, you provide holes in the process of laying the timber, and then level the openings with a chainsaw. This construction technology is simpler and safer.

You can achieve the perfect result with a saw

1. During the construction of a log house.

This is more time consuming and dangerous. The fact is that after the construction of the structure, it will certainly shrink. And with built-in window frames, the walls can lead.

That will lead to the need for repairs immediately after the completion of construction work and will significantly increase the total cost of building a bath from a bar.

Final stage

After the entire building has been erected with a stele on top of the timber, forty-millimeter boards and cover with roofing material. The frame must remain in this state for at least six months in order to give the necessary shrinkage and acquire its final shape. After that, the installation of the floor and roofing works are carried out.

We build baths from a bar with our own hands

If you used moss or tow as a heater for the bath, then immediately after shrinkage, you should dig in all the walls. The process consists in driving the protruding edges of the insulating material into the gaps between the bars with the help of caulking.

Sealing tow with caulk

When using jute, this process is unnecessary. Since it creates a fairly dense layer even with a simple overlay.

Wood has always been the best building material for building a bathhouse. This is facilitated by its peculiarity to keep heat remarkably, environmental friendliness, ease of processing and aesthetic appearance.

To make the work easier, and the building to be more reliable, it is recommended to use a bar. Smooth, smooth products of regular shapes are easy to install. It is also easy to calculate how much it costs to build a bath from a bar in advance when purchasing material.

Sauna from a bar, ready for use

Construction of a bath from a bar: construction technology, do-it-yourself video instructions for installation, photo

Do-it-yourself technology for building a bath from a bar

Choosing a bar for building a bath

Sauna from a profiled bar

As we have already said, the timber for the construction of a bath can be profiled and glued. Both the one and the other option of lumber has its own advantages and disadvantages, which we will now consider.

Profiled timber

The profiled beam is made from a log or a pre-prepared carriage. In the first case, the log is processed from four sides to the required section using a special machine. The profiled bar, cut from the log, is of high quality and immediately prepared joints of the bar (usually this is a “thorn in the groove” joint). As for the manufacture of a bar from a gun carriage, the technology is practically the same, since the carriage is a sawn timber, in which two opposite faces are flat (they are cut out on a special machine).

It should be noted that very often summer residents for the construction of a bath do not use a rounded log or a bar, but a carriage that fits comfortably and has high strength properties.

As for the advantages of a profiled bar, they include:

• Environmental friendliness of the material
• Lower material cost, and, accordingly, lower costs for the construction of a bath (saving about 25%)
• Attractive appearance of the timber
• Durability of the material (the treated timber will last more than 20 years)
• High thermal insulation properties
• Quick and easy installation of the bath (since the manufacturer immediately cuts out special fasteners of the timber according to the type of constructor)
• Profiled beams do not need to be finished with decorative material
• The beam is lightweight, which implies the construction of a light foundation (and this, again, saving time and money)

The disadvantage of profiled timber (in comparison with glued timber) is a longer shrinkage (about 6 months) and is more susceptible to the negative effect of atmospheric precipitation.

Glued laminated timber

Glued laminated timber for the construction of a bath is created in several stages. First, the lamellas (wooden boards) are checked for defects, which are immediately removed. After that, the lamellas are dried to a material moisture content of no more than 15%. Further, the material is glued together, pressed in special machines and fasteners are cut out in the finished glued beam.

Glued laminated timber can be of various qualities, which are represented by the homogeneity / heterogeneity of the wood, the presence of defects and the type of glue. The latter needs to be discussed in more detail, tk. glue for creating glued beams can be of different qualities. The durability and strength of the material will depend on the quality of the glue. If melamine or resorcinol glue was used in the preparation of the timber, it means that the timber will be of high quality, which will affect its price. If polyurethane glue was used in the preparation of the timber, most likely the sawn timber had high humidity during gluing, so after you build the bath, the glued timber may begin to delaminate.

It should also be noted this type of glue as "EPI". This adhesive is available in the form of a hardener and an adhesive, which have high adhesive properties and are increasingly used by laminated timber manufacturers.

The advantages of laminated veneer lumber are:

• No shrinkage of the material
• High material durability
• Quick installation of the bath
• Light weight and attractive appearance of the timber

The disadvantages of laminated veneer lumber are the higher price of the material and the presence on the market of many low-quality products.

We draw your attention to one significant drawback of both glued and ordinary profiled beams - it is impossible to make reconstruction from these materials in the bath (that is, to demolish the walls or carry out an add-on in the bath).

Construction of a bath from a bar

Construction of a bath from a bar

Do-it-yourself construction of a bath from a bar is a relatively simple process compared to the construction of a brick bath or a bath from a log house. It should be noted that the manufacturers of the timber can immediately provide you with the construction of a bathhouse by the specialists of their company for a fee. This is not to say that this is a bad option. the bath will be built quickly, efficiently, and most importantly, according to your project.

We also draw your attention to the fact that the very process of erecting a bath from a bar with your own hands can take a lot of time. This is due to the 2-3 week solidification of the foundation, as well as the shrinkage of the timber, after which it is allowed to decorate the interior of the bath with decorative materials.

The technology of building a bath from a bar with your own hands is not very convenient to provide in writing, because visual information is easier to perceive and remember. That is why further we will provide you with a video lesson of self-construction of a bath from a bar with your own hands, and now we will tell you a few tips that will come in handy when building your own bath.

Tips for building a bath:

1. Choose the right foundation. Although a timber bath is a light construction that can be built on a columnar or pile foundation, a lot depends on the properties of the soil. For example, if the soil on your site is heaving, then even a light bath will require the construction of a slab or strip foundation.
2. If you decide to lay the timber yourself, do it with additional insulation of the inter-crown space using materials for caulking the log house (jute or flax).

Video lesson of building a bath from a bar

We present to your attention a visual video example of building a bath from a bar with your own hands:

That's all that I wanted to tell you about choosing a bar for a bath with your own hands, as well as about building a bath from this material.

We will help you switch to YOU, with the landscape design of the personal plot, and the construction and arrangement of a country house in general.

Do-it-yourself construction of a bath from glued and profiled timber

So, you have already erected the foundation for your bath, and chose a timber as a material for the walls. An excellent option, quite durable, environmentally friendly and easy to use! If you are new to construction, then timber is the best choice.

Nevertheless, even such a simple and versatile material requires some knowledge and skills that are necessary when building walls. Especially for such a structure as a bathhouse, for the arrangement of which certain additional actions are needed.

Before you start building a bath from a material such as a bar, you should calculate the correct size of lumber for the walls, find out how to connect the bars and splicate them along the length, choose a heater for laying between the crowns, and much more. Let's consider these questions in sequence.

Initial information on the construction of a bathhouse

Building a bath, especially walls for it, can be quite costly.... In the modern construction market, there is a huge range of materials, both traditional and modern, which are widely used in the construction of buildings for a specific purpose. But wood for a bath is the most popular product for a variety of reasons. This is a long tradition in construction, and widespread, relatively low price, environmental friendliness and ease of use.

The timber in this case is a much easier material to work with, moreover, it does not require additional processing, if you buy it, and do not make it yourself.

In order not to incur additional costs for insulation for the walls, it is worth taking a bar with a section of 150 x 150 mm. This thickness of wood walls is optimal, and will allow you to use the bath all year round. In order for the connection between the beams to be more dense, and the appearance of the finished wall to be aesthetic and pleasant, each beam needs to be properly trimmed.

One of the main positive qualities of the timber is that the walls of this material do not require; they look self-sufficient, you just need to carefully process the bars. If you plan to decorate the outer sides of the walls, then it will be enough to plan the material only from the side oriented towards the inner space of the bath room.

The first step in the construction of a bath from a bar is the installation of a strapping ring on the prepared foundation... The optimal choice of timber for the strapping crown is hard ash, oak and larch. Be sure to treat the building material with antiseptic agents.

Laying the first crown of a log house

The quality and stability of the entire log-house of a bath from a bar depends on how well you will carry out the laying of the first crown. And you should prepare for this work thoroughly, having calculated each step in advance.

Before laying the first, initial strapping crown, a layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the bath foundation. Before that, check with a level: it must be exactly horizontal. In case of a drop of more than 1 centimeter, level it with a concrete solution.

After that, place the roofing material evenly in several layers, smeared with each other with mastic. Experts call the following laying technology optimal: 2 layers of roofing material, a laying board, another layer of roofing material. Connect the bars of the first crown to each other in half a tree, and in order to prevent possible later shifts of the bars, arrange a secret spike.

The next step is to insulate the cap. For this, a layer of flax fiber laid on top of the timber is optimal. The next crown is laid on the layer of insulation, and so on, alternating between timber and thermal insulation. This will help to avoid blowing through in possible crevices, and will also play an important role in the subsequent hydro and vapor barrier of the bath from the inside.

Choosing a bar for the first crown correctly

The timber must be selected and prepared in advance so as not to be distracted by trifles and shortcomings during the construction process. To install the first crown, you should choose a high-quality material, since the integrity of the structure during operation depends on it:

• the timber should be perfectly flat;
• there should be no knots and chips on the surface;
• the main condition is the maximum density of the rings of the bar; for the manufacture of such material, the middle part of the tree is taken;
• a timber with traces of blue on the surface of the wood is categorically unacceptable not only for the first crown, but also for the entire frame.

The finished timber produced at the factory is usually already processed and completely ready for use, but additional processing will not interfere, especially for the construction of a bath. Thoroughly coat the bar with mastic, which is pre-mixed with working off. An impregnation based on such a composition is perfectly absorbed into the wood. The ends of the timber do not need to be processed, they must remain bare and release moisture from themselves when the structure dries and shrinks.

It depends on how carefully you process the timber, how long the lower crown will serve with faith and truth, and therefore all the walls of your bath.

Methods of locking joints of beams in a log house

There are several ways to connect the timber in the walls of the bathhouse, which will avoid the impact of wind and cold temperature on the room from the outside. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Method one: butt joint... With it, the bars are attached with their ends to each other, while each connecting seam from above is overlapped by the next. In order for the butt joint to be reliable and not to lose its qualities over time, follow the ends of the beams: they must be absolutely even. The cut makes an angle of 90 degrees.

However, a butt joint, even a very tight one, does not exclude rather high heat losses through such bath corners. Well, since the bathhouse should be warm and cozy, it is worth considering such a method as a "warm corner", which is a connection of bars into a root spike.

For such a connection, a special groove is sampled in the end part of one of the bars, and a vertical spike is made in the other bar, at the end. In some cases, knitting is done according to the principle of a double or triple slotted spike, that is, several vertical spikes are made on the bar, respectively.

Whichever type of joining of the timber you choose for the walls of your bath, the most important thing - do not forget to make a bookmark of the inter-row insulation between the beams. This will simultaneously increase the density of the joining of building materials and serve as excellent thermal insulation for the entire log house.

Sometimes during construction it may be necessary to splice the beams along the length. In this case, the butt splice method is not recommended for use. For such work, there are types of splices that have been used for a long time:

• oblique cut at the ends, or oblique butt;
• end butt with a ridge preventing the formation of cracks;
• the method of straight overlap, in which the felling in length is twice the thickness of the timber;

• A relatively new and more practical method of bevel and bevel cut to resist side loads.

Insulation used for laying between the crowns

As mentioned above, linen-jute linen is the most optimal material to provide insulation between the crowns. Now you can buy it in any building supermarket. Such insulation is produced in rolls of different widths, depending on the size of the selected log or bar, which greatly simplifies the choice, and besides, it is very easy to cut it into strips according to the selected length. This material is made from natural natural fibers of jute and flax, the composition is kept in strict proportions.

During the production process, a fabric of high density and uniform thickness is obtained, in which the fibers are fastened together using special needles with notches.

By laying a linen-jute canvas between the beams as a heater in the process of building walls, you will save yourself the need for additional caulking, and after the shrinkage of the timber is over, the walls will take the form of a solid monolith. Such a canvas will not creep due to the loads applied by the crowns, will provide uniform insulation along the length of the seam, resistant to moisture, wind and dust, temperature changes and other climatic troubles.

Bar dowel

The crowns of the log house should be connected to each other along the entire perimeter, as well as in the corners of the castle joints using dowels, or wooden round dowels. Such pins should be made from hardwood, that is, larch, oak or ash. The process of making the dowel itself is as follows: take an inch board, cut square slats from it. Then cut them to the required length. Give the battens a rounded shape by chipping and chipping the sides.

There is a much simpler and inexpensive, "lazy" way to make a dowel. Buy ready-made shovel cuttings and rakes from the store and cut them to the size you want. This can save a lot of money and especially time.

The installation of dowels into the timber is done at a distance of a meter and a half from each other, and without fail on each side of the log house in the corners. It is necessary to fasten the timber on those sections of the wall where the windows and doors will be located, and fastening should be done 15-20 centimeters before the cutout for the box. This will exclude subsequently the unscrewing of the timber from the solid masonry during the drying of the wood and in the process of shrinkage of the bath house.

In order to install the dowel, holes are drilled in the beam from above so that the two upper beams are stitched through, and in the third, a groove is obtained with a depth of 5 to 7 cm, no more. Strictly observe the diameter of the dowel: it should be about 2 mm smaller than the diameter of the hole. If you do not follow this rule, then during the shrinkage of the log house, the walls can "spree", which will lead to their significant distortion and affect the boxes for windows and doors. The dowel should easily enter the hole when hammering in and sink into the upper beam by 5 centimeters.

This method of installing dowels is one of the most common, but far from the only one. Many masters have found their own method that has become familiar. After all, the most important function of the dowel is to exclude the displacement of the timber inside the masonry and to ensure the correct shrinkage of the frame during drying, during which the wood will freely move along the surface of the dowel.

The technology considered above will make it easy, without special professional skills, to erect walls of the required height, while taking into account the natural drying out of the wood, and, accordingly, the shrinkage along the height of the frame of the structure by about 7-8 percent.

Related Videos

Completion of work on the construction of walls from a bar

After the construction of walls from a bar for your bath is over, you should not waste time installing ceiling beams and erecting a roof. It is not worth delaying with this, since the open inner space of the bath is subject to the harmful effects of precipitation and wood, as well as decay of used wood.

When the roof is installed, you can safely get down to work on waterproofing the walls from the inside and decorative finishing on the outside. But this is a completely different story, you still have a lot to do in order for the bathhouse to please you, your family and guests. And we will consider each step in the following articles.

In terms of its aesthetics, quality and durability, a wooden bathhouse differs little from that built from a rounded log, but the very process of its construction is much easier, faster and does not require a special level of skill. And the log bath itself can be safely called a truly Russian building - after all, in Russia absolutely all houses were built without a single nail, but very soundly and for centuries. So, we are building a bath from a bar - with a website portal

And for starters - an introductory video:

How to choose the right timber for construction?

The most crucial stage in the construction of a timber bathhouse with your own hands is the choice of the wood itself. After all, the operational characteristics of the steam room will directly depend on this. The first thing you need to pay attention to before buying is the complete absence of cracks in the finished logs. After all, even the smallest, insignificant of them will surely give a defect during shrinkage, constantly expanding in the future and even becoming subsequently the cause of wood decay.

Secondly, there should not be any light blue spots on the surface of the beams - this is evidence that the rotting process is already in full swing inside, possibly provoked by fungi - it is no longer possible to build a bathhouse or a house from such material. Also, a bar for building a bath is considered defective if wormholes or traces of being eaten by bugs are visible on it.

But a good, high-quality timber will look smooth and perfectly flat. If any distortions or defects are visible, all this will affect the laying of crowns, and the construction of a bath from a bar will stretch indefinitely.

The beam is profiled and solid. The profiled one has spikes and crown grooves along the entire length, which are additionally ground. Such elements are easier to connect together. And the most important plus is that precipitation and moisture hardly penetrate into such walls. But from the shortcomings, we highlight the fact that this material has poor endurance and low fire-fighting properties. will have to be processed additionally with propylene. Used for construction and solid timber. But it usually does not look very aesthetically pleasing and you will need to close it with siding or block house.

But how much timber is needed for a bath and how to calculate it? It all depends on the project. Any experienced craftsman will be able to estimate the required amount of material by eye, and if a contract for the delivery of wood is concluded with some supplier, he will calculate everything himself, and will bring only the strictly required number of elements - no more, no less.

And, if it so happened that among the brought beams one or two turned out to be defective, they do not need to be used for firewood - they can be sawn and good parts can be used to make smaller construction elements: slats, door and window frames, and even floorboards. But the rejected material will definitely need to be burned in order to prevent contamination of high-quality wood. That is why even at the stage of the contract with the company, it is better to overpay a little and order “spare” ones, how much timber is needed for the bathhouse according to the selected project - those that can later be trimmed and replaced if damaged, if any (two or three will be enough).

How to prepare and process the timber yourself?

But how to build a bathhouse from a bar, if there is no way to order the material itself? In this case, you can prepare it yourself. It is better to do this in the cold season.

As soon as the tree is cut down, it is advisable to let it rest for at least a month, after which all the logs need to be carefully examined and sorted out: you can leave only the highest quality for the construction of a bath, and it is better to discard the damaged and bad ones.

Now you can start processing the future building material. So, first, the log needs to be cleaned of bark, and so that it does not crack at the same time, it must be left on both sides - about 15 cm wide.After such procedures, you can put the logs for storage: at least 20 cm from the ground, carefully folding them in packs, or in stacks, be sure to keep a distance of 5 to 10 cm between them.

By the way, it is advisable to fold two or three lower rims of the bath from deciduous timber, and all subsequent ones - from pine, spruce or cedar. This is due to the fact that larch always retains its properties well, even in an intensely humid environment, and is much less prone to rotting, becoming harder and harder over time. But building an entire bath from this material is a very expensive pleasure, but everyone can already afford the first three such crowns. And the pine and spruce walls of the bathhouse are still slightly better in terms of hydr- and heat-insulating properties.

How to draw up a project for a future bath?

It is easier and more logical to choose a ready-made one. But first, decide how exactly your bath will look like and what structural elements are required in it.

Bath with an attic

So, one of the most popular options is a sauna with a mansard roof and an attached veranda. Upstairs there is a summer bedroom, where it will be convenient to spend the night after bath procedures or leave friends for the night, and the veranda is a wonderful place for evening herbal tea.

If you want to look at projects of baths with an attic, we advise you to read the article

Bath with terrace

If you plan to build a barbecue in the yard, then build a bathhouse with an open wide terrace. On it, by the way, you can put the oven itself. And over time, make an artificial pond in front of the bath.

Bath with a veranda

A simple bathhouse with a wide veranda is one of the simplest buildings. At the same time, it is better to glaze the veranda in order to make a summer bedroom, a kitchen or put a billiard table in it. There are a lot of options!

How to build a bath with a veranda is described in the article

Sauna with a porch

If you are an adherent of a real Russian steam room, build it with a traditional wide porch:

It is not only beautiful but also practical. A table, a samovar and the scent of nature around - what else do you need?

Sauna with a veranda and a wide roof

In such a bath from a bar there is a great advantage - both the veranda is covered, and the attic has a huge usable area, at least make two bedrooms, and the foundation turned out to be compact.

Have you chosen a project? Then let's move on to the intricacies of building a bath from a bar!

Construction of the foundation for a log bath

A strong and massive bath from a bar with your own hands can be erected on one of two types of foundations: tape and columnar.

To make a tape, formwork must be built around the entire perimeter and filled with concrete - exactly to the depth of soil freezing. In this case, the height of the foundation itself should be at least half a meter above the ground: this is the only way to protect the lower rims of the beams from excess moisture. But inside the perimeter of the foundation, you will need to pour strips of rubble or sand. And after two or three weeks, as soon as the concrete hardens, you can begin to lay the first rows of the log house.

To make a columnar foundation for a bathhouse, you will have to expose brick pillars around the perimeter, corners and future places of the internal load-bearing walls. A concrete "pillow" should be made under each of the pillars in order to avoid their subsidence. The distance between such supports should be 1.5 m, and in rare cases - 2 m.

But, whatever the foundation is chosen, it must be reinforced with reinforcement - for strength and fastening the crowns. And, of course, provide reliable waterproofing between the plinth and the first crown. For this, a layer of molten bitumen is applied to the horizontal surface of the foundation, which is covered with a continuous layer of roofing material. And after hardening, the whole procedure must be done again.

The laying of the first crowns of the future bath

So, assembling a bath from a bar is quite simple - be it according to a marked project, or improvised. The main thing is not to be lazy to use the construction and not to rush to fix the crowns.

The first thing to do before starting the construction of the bath walls is to check the horizontal surface of the timber for evenness. But not by eye - for this you need a level. And the correctness of the entire design of the bath depends on how the first crown turns out to be ideal in this plan.

It is necessary to choose the beams for the first row of a log house the thickest of all the subsequent ones, because it is on them that all the weight of both the walls and the roof will fall. That is why experienced craftsmen usually advise to select for this the first burs with a section of 20x20 cm, and all subsequent ones - 15x15 cm. Only the length of the beams should be the same.

The very laying of the first crowns of the log house should be started by placing thin wooden slats along the entire base of the foundation (only they must first be treated with an antiseptic). The thickness of the slats should be no more than 15 mm, and the distance between them should be approximately 25-30 cm. Why is this necessary? So that the lower rows of beams are well protected from dampness and decay, which will significantly increase the service life of the entire bath, and it is advisable to fill the space between the slats with foam or insulation.

It is not necessary to lay the frame of the bathhouse too tightly - in the future, the whole structure will shrink by itself. The lower beam, which is laid on the foundation, does not need any fastening - the pressure of the upper rows will provide it with the necessary strength anyway. And it will be much easier to replace the entire first row once, because you don't have to disassemble the entire bath.

In addition, the beams of the very first row must be processed from all sides (especially carefully the part that is adjacent to the foundation). You can use a modern antiseptic for this, or you can take traditional machine oil.

Wall construction methods

Before making a bath from a bar, it is important to firmly understand the following: such walls are built in a strictly established manner. So, first, the crowns are laid, aligned and fastened together with wooden pins or metal pins. They must be driven into specially made holes, the diameter of which ideally matches the diameter of the mounting pins themselves. And holes are drilled at a distance of 1-1.5 m, and the drill even goes through the upper beam and half of what lies below. After that, the lower bar is removed, pins with a length equal to the height of the two bars are driven into the holes, and a layer of insulation is laid. And the top bar is put in place.

This is how all the crowns fit, up to the top two. By the way, there is no need to fasten the upper ones. Because at the last stage of the construction of the bath, they will have to be temporarily removed to install the ceiling beams.

In addition to this method, there are several more how to fasten the bars together.

So, if, nevertheless, nails will be used, then only without hats - those that sink in wood, submerged. After all, ordinary ones rust and spoil the wood.

You can fasten a bar between and wooden dowels - square bars 18x18 mm, the length of which varies from the size of the bursa, but cannot be more than 25 cm.To insert them, you need to make holes with a drill of 21 mm in diameter, and then drive them into the dowels. And the dowels themselves should be staggered. By the way, you need to drill through the burs.

And finally, it is good to secure the beams with the "Force" spring assembly, which looks like a screw with a compression spring built into it. Thanks to this fastening system, there will be no gaps between the parts - after all, the bars will press against each other with all their strength. Although this method is expensive, cracks and deformations of the entire structure can be happily avoided.

If you decide to build a solid bathhouse, then be sure to get yourself an accurate professional project, because the work is not easy:

Caulking cracks

Maybe moss, tow and jute - all of them are equally excellent at their heat-insulating functions. But it is most convenient to work with jute, which is unwound gradually, during laying on top of the beams, and is attached to them with the most ordinary nails with a stapler.

Caulking after using jute is not necessary. But if tow or moss was used, then at the end of the bath shrinkage period, absolutely all the gaps between the crowns must be caulked - for this purpose, a hammer, caulk and a wooden spatula will be used. The process itself looks like this: tow is clogged in the gap after shrinkage.

Roof construction

So, now let's move on to building the roof. The easiest option is to build, under which to organize an insulated attic with good ventilation. But, usually in the bath, there is always not enough extra space to organize a guest room, a bedroom, a billiard room or a home cinema in it - why waste valuable meters?

It is only important to insulate it correctly:

Installation of door and window openings

About where the doors and windows will be located in the bath, you need to take care in advance. To do this, even during the construction of the walls in the right places, you need to leave a small gap, and after the blockhouse gives a final shrinkage, the planned openings are made in the planned places with the chainsaw:

Natural shrinkage and interior work

The final stage of the construction of a bath from a bar is the preparation of a log house for a six-month period of shrinkage. To do this, as soon as all the work is completed, a row of boards, 40-50 mm thick, are laid on the upper crowns, and it is covered with slate or roofing material. So the bathhouse should overwinter. And only at the end of the shrinkage period, you can begin to carry out finishing work.

That's all! It remains now only to protect the lower bars of the bath from dampness, creating a high-quality blind area around:

And you can start internal work:

Those who intend to build a sauna or a bathhouse from a bar on their own, and even from scratch, need to solve a lot of problems in stages. Choose a project and material, study videos and tips for building a log house with your own hands. Detailed instructions are also in this article.

Bath beam: how to choose

When deciding on what to build a bathhouse from, it is no coincidence that many owners prefer the timber. In his favor are the following characteristics:

• the ability to retain heat well;
• aesthetics;
• minimal shrinkage;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation.

As in the log-cabin, in the bath from a bar it smells of wood, resin - as if in an old Russian steam room. This has a beneficial effect on the health of those who take bath procedures. At the same time, it is cheaper and faster to build such a structure than its analogue from logs: a log house can be installed immediately on the foundation, and finishing can be carried out without waiting for a long shrinkage.

Perhaps the most significant drawbacks of the timber are only two: the tendency to decay and the high fire hazard.

Advice. The timber can be glued and profiled. The first one is more expensive, but at the same time it is durable and does not deform. A profiled beam is, in fact, a log that has been given a certain shape. Thanks to the spikes and grooves, it is easier to connect. But the shrinkage of such log cabins can take a long time.

The choice of material is more than a responsible task. It is believed that timber that was cut between December and March is most suitable for construction. According to all the rules, it is stored on a substrate and dried for about a month under natural ventilation. When buying a timber or getting it from your own stocks, pay attention to the following nuances:

1. Cracks are a serious defect. Even small cracks will expand over time, causing wood to rot.
2. Small holes are a sign that bugs have settled in the bar.
3. Blue spots indicate that the material has begun to rot. Naturally, it is not suitable for construction.

Foundation design and pouring

What a bathhouse should be like depends only on the preferences of its owner. Projects of buildings with a terrace are convenient if after the steam room you like to have a barbecue in the fresh air. In the bathhouse with an attic, you can equip an additional relaxation room and accommodate guests there. But the glazed veranda is a great place for a summer kitchen or billiard room.

If you are planning a two-story building, make a solid strip foundation. Otherwise, you can get by with a simpler columnar. The tape is laid to a depth of at least 0.5 m.

Technology:

1. Having dug a ditch, pour sand or gravel on its bottom (layer thickness - 15 cm).
2. Make wood formwork.
3. Inside, equip a frame made of reinforcement.
4. Fill with concrete.

For a columnar foundation:

1. Dig holes up to 40 cm deep around the perimeter, as well as in the corners of the future bath.The distance between them should be about 1.5 m.
2. Make a 15 cm sand cushion in each of the ditches.
3. Install brick posts in the pits. Their height is about 0.5 m.
4. Reinforce the pillars when laying the foundation for greater strength.

Attention! In any case, don't forget about waterproofing. To do this, apply softened bitumen to the surface of the foundation and cover it with a layer of roofing material. When everything is frozen, repeat the same thing one more time.

Walling. Joining a bar in the corners: methods

For the first row (crown) of the bath, experienced craftsmen recommend taking a bar with a cross section of 20 x 20. For all other crowns, a material with parameters 15 x 15 is suitable. The main thing is that the length of all specimens is the same. The construction of walls consists of the following stages:

• Laying slats on the foundation at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. This is additional insulation for the timber. The slats should be no more than 0.15 cm thick and treated with an antiseptic.
• The location of the first row of beams. Previously, they should be treated with a special antiseptic solution or ordinary machine oil. Make sure the surface is perfectly level before joining. Use a level for this.
  3. Fastening the beams of the first row and filling the space between the rails with polyurethane foam.

Advice. For the first crown (row of a log house), take a larch or oak bar. These rocks tolerate moisture well.

• Laying on top of the first crown of an insulation layer, for example, made of tow or moss. This is true for all subsequent rows of beams.
• Positioning and securing the second crown. For the connection, use wooden pins or metal pins. Holes must be drilled for them in advance. If you take nails, it is better to those that can be "drowned" in wood, because on the surface the caps rust and cause the timber to rot.
• Laying the rest of the rows. You do not need to fit them closely. It is better not to connect the last two crowns, because they will have to be removed during the installation of the roof.

The bars can be connected to each other longitudinally as well as at the corners. The first option is used when the specimens are short in order to lay them out along the entire length of the wall (for example, a 4-meter bar is used for a 6 x 6 bath). In other cases, you can resort to the corner joint. It happens with the remainder, when protruding parts of the bar remain in the corners, and without it.

The first method is considered more reliable and much more attractive from a design point of view. It has 3 mounting options:

• 1-sided;
• 2-sided;
• 4-sided.

The number indicates the number of grooves that are cut in the timber. The optimum connection results from the 4-way clutch, although this is the most labor-intensive job. A residue-free mount, which is made end-to-end, on dowels or on spikes, is considered less reliable for a bath, so it is better not to use it.

How to make windows and doors in a bath. Roof construction

When laying the beams, you can make a small gap in the rows - where windows and doors are planned. After the blockhouse is ready and time has passed for shrinkage, you should cut out the openings with a chainsaw. But there is another option: to make windows and doors at once, during the construction process. To do this, you will need special grooves and specimens of beams with an end cut. The second method requires more time, and as a result of shrinkage, finished windows and doors may deform.

The roof of the bathhouse can be pitched - quickly and inexpensively. It is assembled from cross logs, which are assembled at an angle. In this case, precipitation will not linger on the roof. A gable roof is a good option if you need to equip an attic or a rest room under it. It is more convenient to install rafters and lathing coverings on the ground, and then put the finished structure on the frame. You can cover it with metal tiles, roofing felt or ondulin.

Advice. Different roofing materials are optimal for different slope angles. For example, 5 ° is suitable for roofing material, and 30 ° for ondulin. Consider this feature when choosing a coating.

Do-it-yourself bath from a bar: video

Construction of a bath from a bar: photo