How to make a blind area in the country yourself. Five common mistakes when constructing a blind area: what professionals do not recommend. Tile blind area

The device of the blind area is an extremely important event. These works are performed after the completion of the construction of the house, therefore, sometimes they are not given enough attention, it is unacceptable, since the construction of the blind area performs an extremely important task of protecting the foundation from atmospheric moisture. The following describes how the blind area should be done with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for each type of protective strip and recommendations for the choice of materials.

Concrete blind area

Today this is the most popular way to protect the foundation, but it has a fairly large number of drawbacks, therefore, if there is financial opportunity to choose a more expensive and reliable option, it is better to resort to it. Most often, this type of blind area is typical for mass urban construction.

The disadvantages include:

The production of a concrete element is carried out in the following order:

1. Calculation of the thickness of the entire structure, in which it is required to take into account all layers. This value is needed in order to determine the depth of the trench along the perimeter of the foundation.
2. Determination of geometric dimensions. On average, the width should be taken in the range of 90-100 cm. The slope for concrete is 3-5% (for piece materials - 5%, therefore, in order not to get confused in the values, it is recommended to remember the general - 5%).
3. Carry out the markings on the ground. To do this, the limits of the future structure along the perimeter of the foundation are designated by pegs with a cord stretched along them.
4. Next, a trench is torn off. The dimensions in the plan are already limited by the markings, it remains only to dig the soil to the depth calculated in the first paragraph.
5. The base soil is carefully compacted. If possible, a lock is made of clay, which will provide additional protection from moisture.
6. The next layer is a sand cushion. Sand performs three functions: replacing heaving soil, which is widespread throughout the country, with a conditionally non-heaving soil, leveling the base, and arranging a drainage layer. The sand cushion is made from coarse to medium sand only. If the blind area is erected with your own hands using a fine fraction, then large shrinkage, the appearance of cracks and a violation of waterproofing are possible. The thickness of the layer is selected depending on the characteristics of the soil. It is important to consider strength and water saturation. If the soil on the site is solid, it will be enough to lay about 200 mm of sand. Unstable substrates may require 500 mm sand bed.
7. Crushed stone bedding performs approximately the same functions as sand bedding. Here you can use not only crushed stone, but also gravel or sand and gravel mixture. The device of a blind area on such a foundation increases the strength of the soil and increases the reliability of the entire structure. At this stage, preparatory work is completed. Until this point, there are no fundamental differences in how to correctly make a blind area for a foundation from different materials.
8. The next stage is the placement of the formwork. The formwork is needed so that the liquid concrete mixture does not flow out of the markings. For manufacturing, you can purchase boards with a thickness of 22-25mm. You can use old materials to save money. Walls are knocked off from the boards, which are installed along the perimeter of the foundation. In this case, it is important to install the board directly to the wall of the building, the thickness of the formwork element will provide the necessary expansion joint, the thickness of which is in the range of 20-40 mm. The seam is needed to prevent cracking and deformation of the structure with different shrinkage of the foundation and blind area.
9. After the formwork is installed, the reinforcement mesh is laid. They will increase the flexural strength of the concrete. It is recommended that the diameter of the reinforcement in the meshes be approximately 10 mm. Such technology of the blind area will ensure its strength and reliability.
10. Further, the device of the blind area requires the installation of transverse boards around the entire perimeter of the foundation. The boards will provide expansion joints that cut the strip into individual sections. The pitch of the boards is assigned 2 meters.
11. The next stage is concrete pouring. For this, a concrete mixture of classes B20 - B22.5 (grade M300) is made. It is such a solution that is able to ensure the durability of the structure and the necessary strength. It is possible to use concrete of smaller classes, B15 and B17.5 are suitable, but it is worth remembering that the service life will decrease. When using the B22.5 mixture, the standard service life will be approximately 25 years. Pouring in each compartment between the boards of expansion joints is performed in one step. After that, it is required to perform a seal. There are several ways, but the most common is vibrators. In the absence of the necessary equipment, bayonetting can be used.
12. After the solution is poured, the surface is ironed, this is done to increase the strength characteristics.
13. The penultimate stage in the manufacture of the concrete blind area of ​​the foundation is the gain in strength of the structure and its maintenance. At a temperature of +20 degrees Celsius and normal humidity, it takes 4 weeks to cure. If the temperature is lower, the process slows down significantly. It is necessary to wait for at least 70% of the grade strength of the concrete. For a week or two after pouring, the surface is moistened every 2-3 hours (and at night 2-3 times per night). This is to prevent cracking.
14. When the concrete has reached 70% strength, the formwork can be removed. After that, the installation of the blind area is completed.

Paving slab foundation blind area

Do-it-yourself blind area around the house in this case has only one drawback - cost. But in terms of appearance, maintainability and ease of use, it surpasses the previous type.

The preparatory stage of work is carried out according to points 1-7 for the manufacture of a concrete blind area of ​​the foundation.

1. An additional layer of sand 70-100 mm is laid on the crushed stone, while providing the necessary slope.
2. The next stage is the installation of the tiles.
3. Close up the joints of piece elements with a cement-sand mortar.

More details about this type of construction can be found in the article "Blind area from paving slabs". The same technology is used to mount a cobblestone or ceramic brick structure.

Clay blind area

An arrangement of this type for the protection of the foundation requires performing actions in the following order:

1. Preparation for points 1-7 for a concrete blind area.
2. Laying a layer of clay with a thickness of 100-150 mm and its compaction. For manufacturing, you can use clay that remained after fragments of the foundation pit, but only if it is of good quality and high strength.
3. The arrangement is completed by creating a decorative layer. To do this, stones are sunk into the clay layer or placed on top of pebbles. This will create a comfortable walkway and strengthen the structure.

Clay blind area is an inexpensive and not laborious option for creating a drainage system around the perimeter of the foundation.

Membranes

Before making a blind area around the house, it is recommended to consider the option of PVP membranes.

This material provides the highest degree of protection against atmospheric moisture for supporting structures.

The technology differs from the usual types of protective blind areas:

1. Follow points 1-5 for a concrete blind area.
2. Lay a layer of sand, and a membrane in it.
3. All this is covered with a layer of rubble.
4. Backfilling is carried out.
5. The grass is planted.

The blind area from the membrane does not come out to the surface and cannot be used as a sidewalk. Its only function is reliable waterproofing. VThe choice of material depends on the capabilities and wishes of the future owner of the house.

The work is not limited to the construction of a private house. It will be necessary to make some efforts to arrange the home so that it is as reliable, comfortable and durable as possible. One of the main stages performed after the completion of the main construction work is the creation of a blind area around the house. This element serves a number of important functions. If desired, the blind area can be made with your own hands, there is nothing super complicated in this.

Some homeowners ignore the need for a blind area. And absolutely in vain! This building element contributes to an increase in the service life of the building and in general creates a more comfortable living environment. The blind area protects the foundation and the surrounding land from the harmful effects of all kinds of water. Atmospheric and melt water, in the absence of obstacles, can erode the soil so much that moisture seeps to the foundation, and then to its sole. The consequences of such an impact can be the most severe, up to the destruction of the base and the house.

Thus, the blind area is a very important element, especially if the house is built on a shallow foundation, the bottom of which is close to the top layer of the soil. When wet, the sole of the base will lose its strength, begin to sag, which will lead to a strong decrease in the strength of the concrete structure, up to its destruction.

But even if the house is built on a solid buried foundation, the need for a blind area cannot be ignored. It must be present in any case, regardless of the type of foundation, soil and precipitation level typical for a particular region, etc.

Preparing to create a blind area around the house

There is nothing complicated in a personalized blind area, you just need to take into account and follow the basic recommendations in order to get the most reliable and durable construction. It is first necessary to prepare materials and understand the main stages of technology.

Choosing the width of the blind area

Choose a suitable construction width. Since the function of protecting the foundation of the structure falls on the "shoulders" of this structure, the width of the fill should be quite large. To reduce the risk of destruction of the foundation under the influence of moisture, it is worth taking care of the drainage of water from the walls of the building as far as possible. The optimum width of the blind area is at least 80 cm.

Quite often, the blind area is made of such a width that it simultaneously serves as a convenient path. This point also needs to be taken into account at the planning stage of the blind area, so that in the future you do not have to move along such a path sideways. Thus, the most convenient width of the blind area, which can provide both reliable protection and freedom of movement, is 150-250 cm.

The blind area is performed with a certain slope that can ensure the drainage of rain and melt water from the house... In accordance with building codes, there must be at least 5-10 cm of slope per 100 cm of the width of the structure. Thus, if the blind area is, for example, 100 cm wide, then its edge that joins the wall of the house will rise by 5-10 cm, and the opposite side will be on the same level with the ground.

Such a descent is quite enough for effective water drainage from the building. However, it is difficult to move around on such a structure. But if you decrease the angle of inclination, the liquid will not drain off as efficiently. In view of this, the slope is made at the level of 1.5 cm per 100 cm of the width of the structure. This is the optimal value, which does not interfere with walking on the path and promotes effective moisture removal.

Materials for the device of the blind area

An independent device of the design in question requires certain devices. The list of materials may vary in accordance with the selected type of blind area. The most common option is a concrete structure.

First, you need to clean the area under the blind area, lay a reinforcing mesh of rods with a diameter of at least 6 mm, connect the rods with a special knitting wire, install the formwork and pour concrete mortar. This is a general outline. However, each stage has its own characteristics and requires separate consideration.

Set for filling blind area

1. Shovel for digging a trench.
2. Level.
3. Wheelbarrow.
4. Manual rammer.
5. Materials for moisture insulation.
6. Insulation material.
7. Clay.
8. Crushed stone.
9. Sand.
10. Reinforcing rods or a finished structure with cells 100x100 mm.

Take away from the walls of the house everything that may interfere with the work, collect the devices listed above and start marking. For this step, you will need rope and metal pegs. When creating the markup, make sure that the structure has the same width in all places.

Blind Filling Guide

The blind area makes a great contribution to the durability of the foundation, therefore, its creation must be approached with the utmost responsibility.

The structure consists of an underlayment and a top layer. The first is responsible for creating an even compacted base for the next layer. Created from sand and fine gravel. The total layer thickness is about 2 cm. You can also use clay. When choosing a specific bedding material, be guided by the material of the top layer.

The top layer is designed to create water resistance and increase the resistance of the structure to water. Can be created from small cobblestone, clay, concrete and other materials. The thickness of such a layer is about 10 cm.

The instructions will consider the procedure for arranging the most popular type of blind area - concrete. Having dealt with its construction, you can easily make a blind area from any other materials suitable for this purpose without any problems.

How to make a blind area with your own hands. Digging trenches and erecting formwork

The technology of arranging the blind area around the house involves the mandatory implementation of reinforcement. Thanks to the reinforcing mesh, the rigidity and durability of the concrete structure will be increased. As noted, you can buy a ready-made mesh or assemble it yourself from metal rods. Cells with a side of 10 cm are considered optimal.

Special attention should be paid to the expansion joint. It is created at the junction of the basement of the house with the blind area. Due to such a seam, the protection of the mentioned structures will be provided in the process of soil subsidence. That is, the blind area will be able to sag along the seam without damaging the basement of the house. The seam width of 1-1.5 cm is considered standard. The seam must be filled with roofing material, sand and gravel mixture or bitumen of your choice.

Also, for filling, you can use a special tourniquet, for the manufacture of which foamed polyethylene is used.

It is important that the diameter of this bundle is approximately ¼ greater than the width of the expansion joint and fits into the gap as tightly as possible. For a more convenient ramming of the bundle, take plywood or other similar material.

Blind area technology requires that the seams are present and across the concrete structure, approximately every 200-300 cm. They will protect the blind area from rupture during frosts. Cross seams are most conveniently done with wooden battens. It is enough just to install the battens in such a way that their top is on the same level with the upper boundary of the concrete pour. Also, expansion joints must be present in the corners of the structure. Do not forget to take into account the slope of the blind area.

To protect the rails from decay, they must be pre-treated with bitumen mastic, used oil or other similar material. Also, expansion joints must be present in the corners of the structure.

Concrete for the blind area. Cooking and pouring

Concrete is prepared from 1 part of cement (it is best to use material of the M400 brand or less budgetary M500), two parts of sand and four parts of crushed stone.

After pouring, the concrete is compacted and leveled. The wooden slats previously used to create transverse expansion joints will at the same time serve as beacons by which you can navigate in the process.

After completing the pouring, the concrete must be covered with a cloth, burlap is perfect. The fabric should be regularly moistened with water to prevent the concrete from drying out and cracking.

In the end, all that remains is to wait until the concrete gains strength. On average, this takes 1 month. If desired, you can perform the finishing facing of the blind area. An acid-resistant brick is perfect for this.

Thus, there is nothing difficult in filling the blind area around the house with your own hand. Just follow the instructions and everything will work out.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself blind area around the house

The blind area around the house is needed in order to provide its foundation with effective protection from moisture, which is the main cause of the destruction of the concrete base. The blind area is usually used in conjunction with other drainage systems - drainage and stormwater. The need to lay deep drainage pipes is due to the requirements to protect the lower part of the foundation from the effects of groundwater.

A rainwater drainage system, consisting of pipes installed around the perimeter of the roof, removes rainwater. For this process to be as effective as possible, you will need a blind area, with the help of which surface water (top water) is removed from a distance of up to 1 m or more. Water, which is formed as a result of melting snow or precipitation, flows through pipes onto a tape of tiles or concrete, laid with a slope on the ground around the entire perimeter of the structure.

The blind area of ​​the house not only serves as protection for its basement and foundation, but also significantly improves the appearance of the entire building. High-quality tile or stone from which it is made expressively emphasize the features of design and architectural solutions. And also contribute to a greater decorativeness of the exterior.

Why do you need to make a blind area around the house

Even the strongest foundation under the influence of moisture, atmospheric precipitation begins to collapse over time. Moreover, the negative effect is multiplied by temperature drops. The early thaws and the abundant melting of snow caused by them impregnate the soil with moisture to a great depth and can, with a shallow foundation, cause one of the walls of the house to sink. With the help of different types of blind area, it is possible to significantly increase the duration of the operation of the dwelling and preserve all its original technical characteristics. The blind area protects the foundation from the action of various harmful factors that can disrupt the stability of the structure. And also protects against the growth of grasses near the foundation of the structure and its damage by the roots.

It serves as an important additional element to the framework with the following functions:

• protective - prevents the penetration of moisture and dust into the soil next to the foundation;
• insulation - does not allow the soil to freeze and protects from frost heaving;
• regulates the expansion and contraction of air in the soil, affects its composition;
• decorative - it can look like a beautiful finishing element;
• pedestrian - allows you to walk along the blind area around the house without getting your shoes dirty.

Precipitation that has fallen into the ground during rapid freezing can significantly increase in volume, which will lead to heaving of the soil and distortion of the foundation and initiate the destruction of the house. The blind area will protect the soil from freezing and make the lateral pressure more even.

In order for the blind area to reliably protect the foundation, it must be installed around the entire perimeter.

If moisture seeps through cracks and gaps, the base of the structure will gradually deteriorate. The thickness of the cushion on which the blind area is laid usually corresponds to the depth of soil freezing.

Blind area around the house: main types and features

Blind areas are of the classic type and monolithic. Moreover, monolithic is considered to be of higher quality. To make it, a layer of sand is first poured into the trench and tamped, and then it is filled with concrete, which must be resistant to freezing. Construction requires knowledge of the type of soil layer in order to correctly calculate the required width. To strengthen the monolithic blind area, you will need reinforced rods. Blind areas differ not only in appearance, but also in a number of technological features.

They are classified depending on the properties, purpose and materials used:

1. From paving stones. This is a semi-rigid, strong and reliable coating that can protect the base of the foundation from strong physical exertion and sudden changes in temperature. Most often, paving stones are used with a thickness of about 6 cm.
2. Soft blind areas. The main structural element is a waterproofing film that protects the lower layers of the soil from getting wet. On top of the film, paving stones are laid or gravel is poured. The best qualities are possessed by waterproofing materials based on polypropylene. In the case of using roll materials, vertical insulation should also be performed, slightly raising the edge of the insulation layer. Polyethylene and roofing felt are less reliable and cannot ensure the operation of the structure for a long time.
3. Concrete blind areas. Hard cover. To prepare a high-quality concrete mixture, you should choose a cement that has good waterproofing properties.

The angle of inclination of the blind area is usually about 3-5 degrees. Its minimum value is 3% (3 cm per 1 m of the structure), it is recommended for asphalt and concrete structures. And the maximum is up to 10% (up to 10 cm per 1 m), for gravel and cobblestones.

Blind areas with a steeper slope drain water much better, but it is inconvenient to walk on them. Their width depends on the technical characteristics of the foundation and the characteristics of the soil. Average indicators are from 60 cm to 1 m 20 cm.

The covering, consisting of paving slabs, is not difficult to repair. Any damaged item is easy to replace. You can use tiles of any shape, as long as there are no gaps between them. And the variety of their color palette allows you to choose the shade that best suits the overall style of the house and the decoration of the exterior walls.

Design features blind area

At the heart of any blind area there are only two layers - decorative and underlying, which is necessary to compact the soil and level it. Most often they use clay, sand, crushed stone. An important property of the decorative layer is moisture resistance, as well as strength, which does not allow water to erode the top layer of the blind area.

In the distant past, the blind area of ​​a house was often made entirely of clay. The construction technology was simple. A trench was dug along the entire perimeter of the house, the depth of which was insignificant. They filled it with clay and, keeping a slight slope away from the walls or foundation, tamped it down, and, as needed, moistened it. The clay layer turned out to be sufficiently waterproof, rainwater flowed down it and did not damage the house. Currently, this method is almost never used. It is suitable for temporary buildings that have a short lifespan.

Concrete is many times more reliable and stronger than clay. When using it, an integral surface is obtained, which is optimal for a foundation with insufficient waterproofing.

If the installation of the foundation was carried out in accordance with the technological requirements, in the manufacture of the blind area, it is allowed to use piece materials - stone, paving stones, sidewalk slabs, or crushed stone.

There must be a gap between the blind area and the wall, which is necessary to protect the waterproofing of the walls of the basement and semi-basement rooms. In the absence of gaps, a blind area of ​​slabs or paving stones, during winter cold snaps, will put pressure on the walls. And if you walk on it, the blind area will settle and damage the insulation of the foundation walls or cladding. The thickness of the compulsory expansion joint should be from 1 to 2 cm. Sand, extruded polystyrene foam or sealant are suitable for filling it.

Do not forget about the corresponding and storm drain. It is they who ensure the dryness of the foundation. Indeed, in their absence, the width of the blind area should be at least three meters. Rigid blind areas are equipped with a surface drainage system in the form of a drainage groove made of stone or concrete. For the same purpose, plastic or asbestos-cement pipes, sawn to length, are excellent. In order for the water to drain better and not stagnate at the bottom, the pipes must be laid with a slight slope.

How to make a blind area around the house yourself

In order to create reliable protection for the base of the house, the help of experienced specialists is not required, since the design of any blind area is quite simple. In addition to economic benefits, the independent production of this important part of the foundation will allow owners to be confident in the quality of their work.

The blind area made of real stone - basalt or gray, yellow, red granite has high decorative qualities. True, the shape of these products is quite simple - a cube or a parallelepiped. The total cost of such a structure is much higher than the price of a blind area made from other materials. Monolithic blind areas made of concrete or asphalt are reliable. They are also more durable.

Most often, the blind area around the house is made of concrete paving stones. It can also be multi-colored, and besides, even hexagonal, square, rectangular or other shape. Chamfering along the edge of the paving stone improves the appearance and prevents chipping. The paving stone thickness is from 4 to 10 cm.

Building a blind area will not require a lot of working time. When making a blind area at home with your own hands, you need to use certain tools and consumable building materials.

You will need:

• concrete mixer - it is convenient to prepare a high-quality sand-cement mortar in any quantity, in its absence it is mixed manually in any suitable container;
• a grinder with diamond discs for cutting concrete - required in order to fit the paving slabs as accurately as possible in size in some parts of the structure;
• building level - to control the slope of the main canvas and additional layers;
• tape measure and rubber hammer - with their help, paving slabs are installed;
• shovel and bayonet - for digging trenches and filling them;
• bucket and trowel - for working with mortar;
• crushed stone, sand - to create a compacting bed, and sand-cement mortar;
• clay;
• grout for the final design of tile joints;
• pegs and twine - for marking;
• concrete curbs and paving slabs;
• cement for mortar grade M-400 or M-500;
• special material for waterproofing in rolls - glassine, glass insulation and other types.

If the technology is observed, a tiled blind area can be no less reliable than a monolithic one made of concrete.

How to make a blind area correctly

When creating a blind area around the house, do not forget about some conditions that must be met. Although its width is not specified in building codes (SNiP), experienced craftsmen make it more than a meter. Since it is quite difficult for a person of average build to move freely on a blind area less than a meter wide, he will touch the walls. In addition, it is necessary that the water pouring from the storm drainage pipes is not absorbed immediately near the building, so the width should be at least 30 cm more than the protruding eaves of the roof.

The blind area around the house must be monolithic and run along the entire perimeter of the building and protect the basement from heat loss. The liquid falling on the blind area should drain from it by gravity, along the slope.

How to make a blind area around the house

Before starting construction, you need to carry out preparatory work. At a distance of up to two meters from the walls, remove all the grass and remove the topsoil about a bayonet depth. And also complete all work, during the performance of which it is possible to damage the blind area. Drainpipe fasteners, a fire escape should be installed, a roof and eaves overhangs, a visor over the entrance should be installed. And then they begin to make a blind area.

Step-by-step instruction:

Curbs must be installed along the outer edge of the blind area so that the canvas does not move after laying the tiles.

Why are the walls of the trench leveled. Curb stones are placed on a thick sand-cement mortar and during work, they are constantly checked for correct installation using a building level.

How to lay tiles correctly

To install paving slabs, it is necessary to make a thick cement-sand mortar, consisting of 1 part of cement and 4 parts of sand. In this case, alignment and alignment of the tiles can be done quite easily.

Start work from the corner of the house. The solution is evenly distributed over the compacted sand, in a layer of two or three centimeters. Tiles are laid on it, which are leveled and compacted with a rubber hammer. In the work, you should use the building level. Sizing of tiles is carried out with a grinder with a diamond wheel for concrete work.

When the paving slabs are laid, you should wait about three days. Walking on the blind area is strictly prohibited. During this time, the solution will completely harden.

To seal the tile joints, you can use a special grout purchased at a hardware store or make it yourself. Mix M-400 cement and sand in a 1: 3 ratio. The resulting composition is distributed along the seams using a wide brush or even a floor brush. After grouting, the blind area must be watered with a hose. Be sure to use a sprayer, as the spray will wash out the grout from the joints. After that, the grouting composition will begin to harden, and the blind area will become completely monolithic. Such a structure will effectively protect the soil near the house from moisture ingress into it.

Possible mistakes when arranging the blind area

During the construction of the blind area, you need to pay attention to various details and features of the soil. It is worth following all technological requirements and is attentive to the choice of materials.

Even minor mistakes can seriously affect the quality of work:

When installing a concrete blind area, it is necessary to control the quality of the water used for mixing the solution. It must be clean, free of multiple inclusions of clay particles and small debris. Otherwise, the quality of concrete will deteriorate and reduce the planned service life of the entire structure.

How to make a blind area in the country with your own hands

Country houses and ordinary residential buildings are often made on stilts. This is very useful in uneven terrain with strong elevation differences. Since labor-intensive earthworks are not required.

It is simply necessary to perform a blind area with a pile foundation. It prevents moistening of the lower part of the house and erosion of soil near the piles, protects the subfloor from flooding, neutralizes the processes of soil heaving and their general negative impact on the pile-screw foundation. In addition, the construction of the blind area completes the process of decorative finishing of a summer cottage or a small country house.

For the construction of a safety belt around the dacha on piles, craftsmen usually use a simplified technology:

1. A layer of clay is poured under the piles, leveled and carefully tamped.
2. Then it is covered with a layer of gravel. It is quite simple to do all this, and such a pillow for some time really protects the structure from rains and melting snow. But this is a temporary construction, its use is justified only in certain cases.

All technical characteristics of the blind area for a summer residence on a pile foundation coincide with the general requirements. But there are some nuances. The thickness of the concrete top coat should be approximately 13-15 cm, of stone or paving slabs - from 5 to 6 cm. The asphalt is laid in a layer that is only 3-4 cm thick.

The blind area made for the pile-screw foundation cannot be connected directly to the basement of the house. Any, even minor, ground movements will destroy all its finishing and the protective belt itself. Therefore, the base is isolated from the blind area. To do this, use penoplex, cement-particle boards or boards impregnated with bitumen. The thickness of the insulating layer should not exceed 3 cm.

The drainage system for the blind area can be omitted in arid regions, where groundwater is located especially deep.

For other areas, the arrangement of drainage is necessary:

1. To make it, a ditch is dug along the outer edge of the blind area, a layer of sand about 10 cm thick is poured into it, and compacted.
2. A layer of geotextile is placed on top, and then a perforated tube with a large number of holes is laid.
3. The entire structure is covered with gravel and covered with geotextiles.
4. The pipes should be directed towards the collector well.

Additional details

The features of this blind area include the creation of expansion joints (gaps):

1. They are made every 200 cm. Planks of a suitable width, up to 3 cm thick, are placed on the edge across the pit dug for the blind area.
2. The same seam should be at the junction of the base and the future blind area. It is made of moisture-resistant cement-bonded particle boards or polystyrene foam, for which they are placed close to the base.

After the surface concrete layer is poured and frozen from the blind area, the transverse boards are removed, which were necessary for the formation of deformation gaps.

Sand or fine gravel is poured into the voids. And only then they install paving slabs or stone, other materials with pronounced decorative qualities. They not only perform a protective function, but also decorate the exterior of the building, the landscape of the entire site.

Sometimes the blind area is made with insulation. Its construction uses ecowool, polystyrene and other insulating materials that do not accumulate moisture. Also, they should not be suitable for various rodents and have good thermal conductivity. If the pile foundation is high enough, it can be used as a utility room.

For the pile foundation, a blind area is often made of rubble. Its indisputable advantages over other building materials include low cost, ease of use, and high speed of arranging the blind area. If concrete is used in construction, special attention must be paid to expansion joints.

A high decorativeness to the building on a pile foundation is given by a blind area made of concrete paving stones.

It is done as follows:

1. A layer of sand is poured at the bottom of the trench, the thickness of which should correspond to the thickness of the selected paving stones.
2. It is compacted, slightly moistened and poured with a five-centimeter layer of concrete.
3. Then a reinforced mesh is installed on top, which is again covered with concrete.
4. When the structure completely hardens, it is again covered with a mixture of concrete and sand, and paving stones are already installed on top.
5. At the end of the construction of the blind area, borders are placed along the edges.

Similarly to work with paving stones, the installation of paving slabs is carried out, which every year are becoming more and more in demand among consumers. The blind area has good operational capabilities and is a real decoration of the exterior of the building.

Don't forget the most important thing!

Unlike other residential buildings, houses on screw piles need high-quality basement ventilation. Often, small holes are made 50 cm from the blind area. They are covered with a net. Before the onset of the winter season, they are closed with specially prepared corks, which makes it possible to keep warm.

Do-it-yourself concrete blind area from A to Z - video

The blind area plays an important and key role for the comfortable use of every home. This part of the finished structure is aimed at performing a protective function and preventing the erosion of the foundation from precipitation and melt water. It is water that is the root cause in the destruction and deformation of the base. If you decide to build a protection without resorting to the help of specialists, we advise you to find out how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands.

The role of the blind area in the structure

Foundation protection plays an aesthetic and decorative role. It prevents the ingress of sedimentary moisture and uneven erosion of the base of the house. If your site is constantly wet soil, then in winter it will begin to press on the base of the house and entail planting and the appearance of cracks on it. If the soil is heaving, then it is recommended to insulate the protection of the base.

Important! It is extremely dangerous to leave the house without a blind area for the winter.

Preparatory work for the creation of a protective structure around the house

In order for the base of the house to be reliably protected, you need to know how to make a blind area. For its construction, use only high-quality materials and carry out the entire work process correctly. When erecting a blind area, determine its width, if possible, make it maximum. The wider the structure, the less likely it is to absorb moisture into the soil and damage the foundation. The minimum width is 80 cm across the entire strip of the house. It should be borne in mind that the blind area also plays the role of a sidewalk, therefore, for its comfortable use, take a width of 2 m. It is necessary to erect foundation protection taking into account the slope, which will ensure that water flows away from the wall of the building. According to building codes, there is an approved slope size of 50-100 mm per 1 m of width, i.e. the width of the structure of 1 m in height will be 50-100 mm near the walls of the house, and its second end will lie in the same plane with the ground. In the presence of this slope, the water will leave without hindrance and without stagnation on the plane.

Foundation protection device

• Level . The height of the base plays an important role. For example, if crushed stone or gravel is used, then the height can be raised by 30 cm.If tiles or concrete are used, then the height should be at least 50 cm.
• The width is set depending on the type of soil and the length of the eaves. With a normal type of soil, the width is 20 cm more than the cornice, this is necessary so that the water flows calmly and does not stagnate near the house. If the soil gives a landing, the width is taken in the amount of 30 cm beyond the border of the pit.
• Bias. When using cobblestone or rubble, the slope is made at a distance of 5-10 cm per 1 m of the width of the structure. For asphalt - 3-5 cm. If the slope is too steep, water drainage is better, but such a structure is inconvenient to use as a sidewalk.
• The gap between the wall. Protects from frost and from destruction of waterproofing basement walls.
• Drainage. Performs the function of drainage along the outer line of the blind area.

Note! The screw and pile foundations do not need a blind area; for these structures, it is enough to make a strong protective coating in the places where the water is drained.

Do-it-yourself blind area around the house

• consider the width of the structure;
• set the angle of inclination correctly;
• use quality building materials;
• follow the entire process of work;
• do not violate the technology.

From the tools you will need:

• shovel;
• manual rammer;
• a wheelbarrow for the delivery of bulk materials;
• hydraulic level;
• insulation material;
• sand;
• crushed stone;
• clay;
• reinforced mesh or reinforcing bars.

Expert advice! The building material should only be selected taking into account the type of soil.

Work instructions

To obtain strong foundation protection, we propose to disassemble the most common blind area options. So, do-it-yourself blind area step-by-step instructions.

Classic protection

• Over the entire area of ​​the building, it is necessary to make a markup for future protection. At the corners of all the walls, we measure the desired width and hammer in the pegs, pull on a strong thread or cord.
• We remove the soil layer by 0.25 m.
• At the edges of the trench, we put and fix the removable formwork.
• We put the first layer of sand (10 cm) on the bottom and fill it with water so that it shrinks.
• We lay a layer of crushed stone (5-8 cm).
• We fix everything on top of the crushed stone with a reinforced mesh. When joining the edges, lay the mesh sheet on top of each other by 15 cm.
• Take wood and saturate it with a water-repellent mixture. Fix the wooden planks every 1.5 m so that their upper edges coincide with the future protection. This will provide additional protection against cracks in the winter.
• The entire plane is filled with cement mortar, the resulting irregularities are leveled.
• As soon as the solution has dried, we take dry cement, sprinkle it over the entire plane and rub it in.

Soft blind area

The construction of such a foundation protection is carried out in several stages of work.

• It is necessary to remove a layer of soil at a depth of 30 cm, dig a trench 60-80 cm wide.
• We put a layer of clay (10 cm) on the bottom and tamp everything well, observing a slight slope from the structure.
• We put a waterproof film on top of the clay, fasten the upper edge to the base of the house.
• We put a layer of sand on top of the film, which will serve as protection against mechanical damage.
• We lay geotextiles on the sand. This is necessary so that moisture can pass without mixing sand with gravel.
• We put a layer of rubble (12 cm) on the geotextile.
• Next is a layer of geotextile.
• Everything is covered with a layer of sand and a blind area is laid out.

Asphalt concrete blind area

• We dig a trench up to 30 cm deep, carefully ram the soil.
• Pour sand and clay to the bottom, this is necessary so that the material does not go into the ground under the influence of water.
• We lay out the borders along the outer line.
• On top of everything, fall asleep with rubble (15 cm).
• Asphalt 5 cm high is laid on top.

Protecting a paving stone or tile foundation

• Dig a trench 50 cm deep.
• Make a slope at the level of 5-10% of the structure.
• A drainage layer (pebbles, crushed stone) is laid out in it, sand is poured on top (30 cm).
• We leave a gap of 2-3 cm between the base and the protection. During the period of severe frosts, the tile tends to increase in size, if you do not leave a gap, it will begin to press on the foundation. The gap can be covered with roofing material or covered with sand.
• Next, a layer of reinforced concrete is laid, leveled and carefully tamped.
• The final stage is the laying of tiles.

Expert advice! When laying slabs, plan in advance the blind area along the width of the slab itself, this will save you from cutting the material. To avoid slipping of the tile along the slope of the foundation, it is abutted against the curb. To firmly fix the curb stone, it is arranged on a concrete lock. This type of blind area is easy to fit, and if the slab is damaged, it is easy to replace it.

Concrete blind area

This type of base protection is the most common. The first thing to start with is to mark the borders, and indent 100 cm in width.

• Remove and compact the soil layer, the depth should be 25 cm.
• Remove the plant root system and remove debris.
• We make wooden formwork, the width of the wood must be at least 20 mm.
• Pour a layer of clay onto dense soil, level it and tamp it.
• Pour sand (10 cm) on top of the clay, compact it carefully and fill it with water.
• Next, we lay a layer of crushed stone (7 cm).
• To increase the load, we reinforce the blind area.
• We carry out an expansion joint in the area of ​​connection between the protection and the base. This is an important component of the entire structure, which allows it to be protected from soil subsidence. The joint width is 1.5 cm, the gaps are filled with sand. Instead of sand, you can also use a sealant.
• In the process of pouring concrete, it is necessary to make expansion joints at a distance of 2-3 m, they will help protect the foundation of the house from ruptures and deep cracks during severe frosts in winter. To do this, take wooden slats, when fastening their tops must be together with the concrete surface. To prevent wood from rotting, they can be treated with used oil or bitumen mastic can be used. The expansion joint is installed in the corner of the house.
• Then we lay and compact the concrete. We align it focusing on the previously installed wood slats.
• We carry out the ironing of the blind area. Ironing has 2 ways: wet and dry. With the dry method, dry cement is poured onto an even layer of concrete. Dry cement draws out excess moisture and forms additional strength over the entire plane.

In the wet method, cement is mixed with water, until porridge is formed and spread over the entire plane with a spatula. Ceresite or water glass can be used instead of cement. Each method of ironing gives the structure additional strength and increases the service life of the blind area.

• At the end of all work, we cover the entire plane with a cloth, which we periodically moisten with water. This procedure will keep the concrete from drying out.
• After 7 days, the blind area is ready.
• The concrete structure can be decorated with pebbles or stones.

Important! The concrete must be frost-resistant.

When choosing any type of protection for the foundation around the house, consider not only the financial side, but also the type of soil, the location of the site and the quality of the structure's drainage system.

A blind area is a strip on the outside of a building, covered with concrete or backfill material, located around the perimeter of the house and protecting its foundation from moisture penetration, freezing, serving as a drainage system. Most are familiar with it as a "path" around the house, adjacent to its base. In accordance with the norms, the slope of the blind area should be 10 ppm in the direction from the building. The covering of the blind area must have good insulating properties, tightly adjoin the foundation and prevent moisture penetration at the joints. The installation guide will help you navigate the nuances of the work process.

The main task of the blind area is to divert melt and rainwater from the foundation, respectively, and from the basement, the basement of the building, which contributes to the extension of the life of the house. Thanks to the technological slope, it protects them from the accumulation of water near the walls of the house. If water seeps into the house, at low temperatures it will freeze and expand, thereby creating pressure on the foundation, in which cracks will subsequently appear. If there is a basement and a basement in a building, it is advisable to lay a heat-insulating and waterproofing layer under the blind area in order to create additional insulation of the building and prevent the soil from swelling around it.

The secondary function of the blind area is that it plays the role of a footpath for moving around the house, and also serves as a decorative element of the landscape and, directly, the structure itself.

Types of blind area

Despite the existing types of blind area, their functional purpose is the same. The only differences are in the specifics of the styling.

There are the following types of protective coatings:

• Stone and concrete paving stones
• Slabs
• Crushed stone blind area
• Soft blind area

At their core, they can be divided into two distinct groups: hard-surfaced blind areas and soft blind areas. The first group includes a coating of concrete, crushed stone, asphalt, sandstone, etc., the second - a base with a coating of crushed stone, soil, paving slabs instead of hard. The difference between a soft structure and a solid structure is that the drainage function is shifted to the underlying layers, while the inclined surface of a rigid structure removes water from the walls. In addition, it is better suited for use on heaving soil, while a solid blind area is better for less watered soil.

The concrete blind area has both advantages and disadvantages in comparison with the soft one: it is a strong, durable, having a simple laying scheme: the trench is filled with sand and crushed stone, then it is poured with concrete mortar. The disadvantage of this design is the formation of cracks over time and the need to repair them. In addition, the runoff of water from the track, if it is improperly diverted, can reduce its protective properties, the low decorative effect cannot be compared with a soft blind area.

Advantages and disadvantages of a soft blind area

A soft blind area around the house has many positive qualities:

• Does not require repair, unlike a hard surface;
• Has high indicators of frost resistance;
• Subsidence and seasonal movements of the soil do not damage the structure. This is due to the fact that the blind area will "play" with its flexibility at the depth of soil freezing while the foundation remains motionless. At the same time, the hard surface would lose its integrity due to its immobility.
• Wide range of decorative outer coverings. In addition, the surface can be sown with a lawn or planted with flowers.
• The blind area is laid with your own hands, which allows you to save money on the work of attracted specialists. This is quite simple to do, since there is a step-by-step instruction for carrying out the work.
• The use of insulation allows you to reduce the depth of freezing of the soil around the blind area, which allows you to lay the foundation at a shallower depth, especially on clay soil.

The disadvantages of a soft coating are weeds overgrowing, which necessitates constant maintenance of the outer coating, as well as a more laborious process of laying the system, in contrast to a hard coating, due to its more complex structure.

Soft blind area: device

When installing a soft protective coating, it is worth considering some features: its width should be 15-20 cm wider than the eaves of the roof, the minimum width should be 60 cm. When laying on unstable soil, the width can reach one meter. The depth of the protective belt also depends on the type of soil. With its low mobility on non-clay soil, the depth of the trench should reach 10-15 cm. With external finishing with paving stones or sand. When finishing with heavier material, the depth should be 20 cm.

The design of the soft blind area consists of the following elements:

1. Waterproofing

The material for waterproofing can be roofing material, polyethylene or PVC membrane. A prerequisite for high-quality waterproofing is its strength and frost resistance.

1. Clay for laying the bottom layer if the soil is loose. Clay should not contain sand.
2. Drainage - expanded clay, crushed stone, sand, or pebbles. It is better to choose a medium fraction for crushed stone. This layer is used for laying the drainage pipe.
3. Geotextiles for load distribution and fractionation to prevent mixing of soil layers. Its composition contains non-woven polyester fiber, which is highly breathable and water-permeable. It is divided into reinforced, which can withstand heavy loads, and unreinforced. The function of geotextiles is to prevent siltation of the drainage layer, which makes it possible not to use pipes when laying a protective belt.
4. Insulation - extruded polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. Expanded polystyrene It is laid in plates, it is necessarily waterproofed to avoid water ingress between the joints.
5. Curbstone.
6. Top decorative coating - colored rubble, soil with a lawn or other vegetation, paving stones, etc. When creating an economical option, ordinary crushed stone can serve as an external coating.

DIY soft blind area: step by step instructions

Do-it-yourself blind area fits quite simply, while step-by-step instructions will help. It is best to carry out the work at the stage of erection of the foundation, since when laying a hydro-barrier near a building on a pile-grillage foundation, it is required to place it under the house by 30-50 cm.Thus, the process of excavation will be easier.

Preparatory stage of work

The initial stage consists of excavation, or rather, digging a trench under the hydro-barrier. In this case, a rectangular section is removed to a depth of 45 cm at the lowest level of the section. The bottom of the trench should be regulated by a level or level and tamped tightly; for this, you can apply fine gravel filling.

To locate the channel of the hidden stormwater system, a small ditch 40 mm wide is dug along the edges of the trench. Then the bottom of the trench is covered with 20 cm thick wetted clay without impurities. When leveling in a ditch, it is given a slope from the building. When it is laid out around the entire perimeter, the clay is left to dry, periodically wetting it with water against cracking. Do-it-yourself soft blind area around the house continues to fit after the clay loses its viscous appearance.

When using insulation, the depth of the trench is increased by 100 mm.

Laying the drainage system

Water is drained in such a way that the flow is directed to the drainage system. It is not recommended to carry out the system of draining directly into the soil, because in case of intense precipitation, the soil under the hydro-barrier can be washed away and its further subsidence.

To drain the water, drain pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are installed. The pipes are pre-wrapped with geotextiles for insulation. Corners and intersections are equipped with T-pieces connecting the ducts to the upper outlet. It is better to drain the water into a special trench 1 m deep, covered with rubble and soil in a ratio of 70 to 30.

DIY soft blind area: laying layers

After the clay layer has dried, crushed stone of an average fraction 10-12 cm thick is poured onto it with a slope from the building. Further, the slope is leveled with sand, each layer is densely rammed and wetted with water, and also broken by geotextiles, especially layers of clay with crushed stone, sand and crushed stone. After compaction, a geomembrane is laid on top of the sand layer, it is also laid on the bottom of the channel tray, pipes with geotextiles and collectors are mounted. From above, the geomembrane is covered with a drainage layer so that water does not linger on the embankment. Then a leveling layer of sand and gravel up to 40 mm thick is laid, as well as geotextiles. Everything that fits further refers to the external decorative layer, which the blind area around the house with your own hands can have in various forms.

When insulating the blind area, the insulation slabs are laid on the bottom layer of waterproofing, covered with another layer of the same on top. All other layers of the hydro-barrier are already laid on the top layer of waterproofing.

Protective outer cover

The final filling of the hydro-barrier consists in leveling with crushed stone with a fraction of 20-25 mm until a dense, even layer with a thickness of 60 mm is created. Since all the underlying layers have been delimited, the surface is dense, not allowing feet to bite. If the edge of the blind area is shifted by 10-15 cm, a small amount of turf can be poured onto it and the lawn can be brought to the walls of the building. In addition to sod, the resulting hydro-barrier can be covered with colored decorative rubble of various fractions, pebbles, tiles, both large and small.