How to properly prune roses for the winter: which ones are necessary and when to prune them. Rules and methods for pruning roses for the winter. We take care and prepare the bushes for the new season. Roses for wintering pruning.

Gardeners say that autumn treatment of plants is effective way preserve and strengthen the bush, increase the volume of flowering next year.

Do not confuse autumn processing with spring. The latter is aimed at the formation and improvement of the bush.

Autumn pruning has, rather, a preventive and health-improving effect. She:

• provides stems with access to light;
• allows you to ventilate the crown;
• increases the plant's resistance to frost.

After pruning old shoots, new, stronger and healthier ones appear. The procedure is carried out not only on roses, but also on other flowering plants. Processing involves the removal of diseased and weak stems, immature and faded buds. Putrefactive processes that will destroy the entire bush in winter should not be allowed. Plants become infected with a fungus, after which it is almost impossible to revive them.

These could be the consequences improper care behind the plant

To prevent the development of microbes, all cut rose shoots should not be left under the bush. The land needs to be cleared of scraps and burned.

Old shoots are considered to be stems that are more than 3 years old. Even though they are in good condition, they need to be removed.

Table: which roses need to be pruned and which not

Step-by-step instructions for pruning different species

A well-groomed bush will “thank” its owner with an abundance of flowers

Typically, pruning begins in late October and ends by mid-November. The temperature at this time reaches from -1 to -5°C. You cannot cut branches when frost has not yet begun. This will contribute rapid growth buds, which will subsequently be killed by winter frosts.

The cut areas must be treated with special preparations against the formation of fungus. If we are talking about a large cluster of rose bushes, then the procedure may take quite a lot of time, be prepared for this.

Hybrid tea roses. Floribunda

If the procedure is carried out correctly, the rose does not even need to be covered.

This is a very tender plant. You can cut the branches exactly to the middle of the shoots, 0.5–1 cm higher than the outer bud.

Such pruning will minimize freezing of shoots in winter. It will benefit the plants, and next year they will produce wild flowers.

Miniature and park varieties

On such roses, only diseased branches are removed

These types of flowers do not require pruning as such. The procedure is preventive in nature. If you want to protect flowers from winter cold, then you need to remove all shoots that look weak or dried out. Be sure to remove all the leaves if they are still attached to the stems. Healthy shoots covered with a woody layer should not be touched. Small branches that are misshapen or diseased can be cut out.

Pruning English and Canadian roses

Pruning is not necessary but may benefit the plant.

These flowers do not need pruning. But caring owners, wanting to prepare climbing plants for winter, carry out a similar procedure:

• Remove all shoots that have not faded.
• Remove leaves and branches.
• Not all shoots can be removed, but only those that choke the bushes.
• Remove branches that are more than two or three years old.

For example, if an adult bush consists of 6–8 branches and shoots, then exactly half is removed.

Remember that spring and winter pruning are completely different procedures that have different goals, and therefore a different algorithm.

This flower requires special attention in the fall.

Several approaches are used to prune this plant.

• Low pruning of shoots. A few centimeters are removed from the ground, the shoots from the second to third bud from the base are cut off.
• Medium pruning involves cutting from the fifth to sixth bud.
• High pruning allows you to leave the entire length of the trunk, while all shoots are removed.
• Combined pruning combines several types of cuts. This is done in order to allow the bush to grow for the next season.

All these types are used to achieve different purposes.

• Low pruning is used if the plant is very weak and there is a chance that it will not survive the winter.
• Medium and high pruning have the goal of preserving the plant for the cold period.

A gardener can choose the type of pruning based not only on the type of rose, but also on the condition of the bush.

Sanitary pruning

Allows you to remove damaged or frozen shoots. Applies to absolutely all types of plants. Dried, deformed, broken branches, shoots that did not have time to ripen before the onset of autumn and all shoots that choke the bush are cut out. If you do not carry out such an event at least once a year, the plant may die.

Such pruning can be carried out not only as preparation for winter period, but also throughout the entire calendar year.

Rejuvenating

If your plant has been alive for more than a year, then, like other shrubs, the shoots may become outdated, not bloom, or rot. In order to prevent this from happening, as well as to increase life expectancy, anti-aging treatment is necessary.

• All old branches that have not grown well are pruned.
• If there are shoots with bark that peels off, they also need to be cut back to the ground.
• Branches older than 3 years should not be left on the plant.

It is best to carry out anti-aging pruning, alternating with sanitary pruning.

For flowering

If in last season the bush gave weak flowering or did not bloom at all, you can take the necessary measures in winter in order to prepare the rose for the next season. This will ensure balanced growth and good color.

• Remove shoots that are more than 3 years old.
• Be sure to examine the buds that remain on the shoots.

Look at the degree of bud development, as well as the ability to flower. Buds that are located higher give earlier color due to the fact that they receive more sun rays. However, these flowers are not large at all and have short peduncles.

If you trim the top buds, you will encourage the lower flowers to grow. They will be large and strong, on long peduncles.

It is necessary to cut off the upper buds 2–3 future flowers down

What else needs to be done before winter sets in?

For the winter, roses are covered to help them survive severe frosts. If it’s October outside, and the foliage of the trees has already turned yellow and crimson, you need to act:

1. Pruning roses in accordance with their variety, as well as the intended purpose.
2. Be sure to clean the bushes, remove all dead, fallen shoots, flowers and leaves, as well as foreign vegetation.
3. Immediately before the shelter itself, you need to remove the leaves that remain on the bushes.
4. Hybrid tea, bush and English roses must be well covered with loose, dry soil.
5. After this, the bushes bend towards the ground. This must be done before the onset of severe frosts.

A frozen shoot can easily be broken, thereby stopping flowering for the next season.

You need to bend the bushes carefully. Try to secure either each branch individually or the whole group with special hooks.

Drive a hook into the ground in advance and tie the bush to it.

When the bush is already lying on the ground, it needs to be treated with iron sulfate. However, you should not do this if flowers and other plants are still growing around. You can simply burn them. The concentration of the solution should be 3%, which equals 300 g per 10 liter bucket.

Special arcs are installed above the roses, which are made of plastic, thick wire or metal. And you need to cover roses when the temperature has already dropped to -7°C. This will help a lot non-woven material. It’s great if the covering is carried out in two layers. Attach the material to the arches, place a weighting material on top so that it does not get torn off by strong winds. The fallen snow will cover the roses and they will be perfectly preserved until next year.

Video: How to prune and cover roses for the winter

A rose is not only a beautiful, but also an unusually delicate plant. It needs to be properly cared for and carefully prepared for the winter. If in your place of residence they are installed early low temperatures, then pruning roses and then covering them is a mandatory activity for every gardener. You will spend several days on this, but the reward will be blooming garden already next spring.

Most varieties of roses are not adapted to harsh winters, but there are species that can withstand harsh climates, but in this they require the help of a gardener.

Pruning roses in the fall is necessary for several reasons. Pruning provides:

• rapid flowering of roses next year;
• complete wintering of the bush without numerous shoots that will weaken the bush during wintering;
• giving the bush a compact appearance for more convenient shelter for the winter;
• facilitating the tasks for the roots to provide shoots with nutrients;
• removal of weak and diseased branches with faded buds and pests that have settled on them;
• plant rejuvenation;
• the bush subsequently acquires a beautiful appearance.

If you do not prune roses, the crown may die with age; root growth that is not removed in time will fill the middle and make the bush look sloppy.

Basic rules for pruning

During wintering, it is customary to leave no more than 7 shoots on the bush. The procedure for removing and shortening the stems begins when a stable outside temperature reaches about -2 degrees. IN middle lane this is the end of October - beginning of November.

Trimming tools

The main tool for thinning bushes is a garden pruner, but experienced gardeners also use sharp knife. To cut thick branches that are more than 2.5 cm in diameter, you may need a hacksaw.

Preparation for pruning

By the end of September:

1. Stop watering and loosening the soil under the roses to slow down the growth of shoots.
2. Late buds are prevented from blooming by pinching them.
3. If there are heavy rains, a canopy is pulled over the rose garden.
4. Hill up the bushes to a height of 10-20 cm.

Pruning technique

How to trim a shoot correctly? To begin the procedure, in addition to the pruning shears, you need to prepare: garden varnish, thick gloves to protect your hands from thorns, a solution of potassium permanganate pink color for disinfection of instruments. Basic rules:

• the cut is made 1-1.5 cm above the bud at an angle of 45 degrees;
• the cut is made in one movement, without burrs;
• do not make a cut above the bud looking inside the bush.

Attention!

The stems, which in the future will grow from a bud looking outward of the bush, will create a beautiful cup-shaped shape in which the shoots will not interfere with each other.

The cut wound must be immediately covered with garden varnish to avoid infection and rotting of the bush. After pruning, not only excess branches are removed, but also fallen leaves and other debris near the rose bushes, which pests can use for wintering. After the pruning procedure, not only the plants, but also the ground underneath them are treated with fungicides.

Types of pruning

There are several types of pruning. This:

1. Sanitary, in which the bush is evenly thinned so that one shoot does not shade another.
2. Rejuvenating, after which stumps with 2.3 buds on each remain. Used when working with old bushes.

Reading time ≈ 9 minutes

In decorative landscaping summer cottage and the design of any garden, timely pruning of climbing roses in the fall is very important, instructions for beginners with preparation rules garden plants for winter we will consider in this article. In order for rose bushes to bloom beautifully, be healthy and thick, they need to be covered and prepared for frost. But, since it is quite difficult to do this with overgrown bushes, branches that are too long should be carefully trimmed. Every gardener should have time to carry out these activities in the fall so that the roses feel comfortable and protected in winter.

Autumn pruning of climbing roses is necessary sanitization plants

Types of climbing roses: do they need pruning?

Rose is considered a queen, and she received this status for a reason. Rose bushes are indispensable in decorative landscaping of the garden area, and individual flowers can revive and brighten any composition or. With their help, you can create stunning or, as well as decorate buildings in any style.

Climbing roses are ornamental plants bush type with long shoots that can be whip-like, creeping and arched. Unlike usual spray roses, this type plants need special support, which their branches quickly entwine.

Features of climbing roses:

Despite the similarity of all varieties of climbing roses, there is a certain classification of them, based on which each gardener already chooses plants for his garden plot.

According to the nature of flowering, plants can be divided into the following groups:

The main varieties differ in the form of growth of the bush:

Among some gardeners there is an opinion that climbing roses do not need autumn pruning at all. However, this is not at all true: after all, the denser the flowers, the more less light falls on a bush. That is why it is necessary to thin out the bush in order to increase the flowering period and eliminate any diseases.

Proper pruning of climbing roses in the fall with tips for beginners and experienced gardeners is presented in the video below.

Autumn pruning of climbing roses: rules and tools

Pruning roses is a serious gardening task and requires some preparation and knowledge. It not only prepares plants for winter, but also improves the quality of flowering. For climbing roses, it begins to be carried out only in the second year of growth, the optimal autumn period for of this event considered to be the end of September - mid-November (depending on weather conditions and climatic features specific area).

Why pruning is so important:

• helps to form a bush of the required shape for decorating the garden, which is so important in landscape design plot;
• promotes accelerated rejuvenation of the plant;
• into the thinned bush without obstruction sunlight and oxygen is supplied, reaching each shoot, providing the plant with uniform ventilation;
• It becomes more convenient to cover roses for the winter, which increases concentration nutrients inside the bush;
• the plant gets sick less;
• shoots become more capable of further reproduction and development;
• the root system is strengthened;
• the splendor and speed of appearance of new buds during the flowering period increases.

The main purpose of pruning is to ensure regular regrowth and proper development flowering shoots of climbing rose bushes. Therefore, it is the replacement branches that gardeners pay increased attention to, because this type of rose blooms due to last year’s growth. Only strong and healthy shoots will please you abundant flowering next season.

What other problems does pruning solve:

• formation of a good quality skeletal foundation;
• elimination of wilted and rotting inflorescences and individual flowers;
• removal of weakened, dry and severely damaged shoots that are no longer capable of productive development;
• sanitary care;
• stimulating branches of the replacement type for further growth.

The main thing is to observe moderation; pink shoots should be handled very carefully and carefully. Moderate pruning involves shortening branches that are too long and spreading out, as well as slightly thinning out excessively dense bushes.

To carry out the work you will need special tools:

• garden shears – need to be sharpened well and removed from work surface rust;
• garden knife;
• pruner;
• gloves to protect hands from sharp thorns;
• rake to remove dead cut stems from the area.

All tools must be sharp so that when pruning you get even, not ragged, cuts. Also, cutting tools should be thoroughly disinfected using a solution of potassium permanganate. As a result of poor quality work, an infection may enter the bush, and the shoot may be damaged, become sick and die.

Each cut must be carefully processed special means for prevention: potassium permanganate or copper sulfate, wood ash or crushed black activated carbon, resinous substance “garden pitch”.

Yellow (not bleached) wax is the basis of many garden wax recipes.

Species autumn pruning:

1. Light (or long) - only cut upper part shoots, used for ground cover and elite varieties (Bengal, English, ancient, etc.). It is important that up to 10 buds are untouched by the pruning shears;
2. Moderate is a type of pruning in which the stems are cut exactly half as long. Suitable for hybrid teas, pernepians, etc.;
3. Strong (or short) is the most radical way and extreme measures, when shoots are removed to the base, up to two “dormant” buds. Suitable for branching roses and tea varieties;
4. Combined - includes both superficial and radical pruning. This method makes it possible to increase the splendor of inflorescences and is most often used for floribunda.

Be sure to prune roses at an angle so that raindrops and other moisture flow freely from them

General rules for pruning:

Once the roses are pruned, all that remains is to wait for frost and cover the bushes for the winter. Roses are quite resistant plants, but they do not tolerate sudden temperature changes at all, so with the first frost they must be protected with shelter. When the air temperature reaches minus 5, the stems must be twisted and bent to the soil, and then covered with arches (as a frame) and any moisture-repellent material (for example, polyethylene film). Used to insulate branches spruce branches and cardboard boxes.

Everyone wants to beautifully decorate their garden or yard. country house flower beds or flower bushes. But in order for the plants to be beautiful and healthy, timely pruning is necessary, especially for climbing roses in the fall (instructions for beginners and experienced flower growers in the video below) during the preparation of flowers for the winter period.

And these days, the ideal beauty of the rose evokes incredible delight. But in order for it to appear in all its colors and aromas in the spring, it cannot be done without proper care, an important part of which is autumn pruning before covering for the winter. And this is a separate story, and there are no trifles here. About why to prune, when it is optimal to do it, what are the features of pruning each variety of “queen of flowers”, what general rules you need to be guided, and how best to prepare a rose for winter will be discussed in our article.

The need to prune a rose for the winter directly depends on what type of favorite flower you grow in your garden, as well as the goals of your manipulation.

As a rule, the main purpose of pruning roses in the fall is to make the bush more compact, making it easier to cover it for the winter.

Which roses should not be pruned for the winter?

Roses that bloom once in the summer are not subject to autumn pruning.

Because they don’t need shelter, because... They can easily withstand fairly severe frosts, which means there is no need to lay them down and bend them to the ground.

Thus, there is no need to prune the following types of roses for the winter:

When to prune roses for winter

It is necessary to carry out autumn pruning of roses before sheltering for the winter during the first night frosts, but preferably before the onset of stable frosts. If this is done ahead of time, then pruning will certainly stimulate completely unnecessary and destructive shoot growth at this time.

Need to know! Stable frosts— both day and night the temperature is stable below zero.

Frost- minus only at night.

As a rule, pruning is carried out immediately before sheltering for the winter, in other words, these two procedures are combined.

Thus, the timing of pruning depends on where you live and the climate.

The approximate timing of pruning roses for the winter in the middle zone (Moscow region) is the second half of October - early November, as well as in the Leningrad region, as well as in the Volga region. In cold northern regions (in the Urals and Siberia) - at the end of September-October. In the South of Russia - late autumn, that is, not earlier than November.

Pruning roses in autumn: basic rules

Important! For the winter, you need to prune both mature roses and

Even if you are not going to do a full fall pruning of roses for the winter, you still need to do some mandatory pruning, namely:

Important! In any case, young immature shoots will not survive the winter and will be carriers of fungal infections!

• Delete broken, damaged and diseased shoots(sanitary pruning).
• Trim all weak and thin shoots, excessively thickening bushes(thinning pruning).
• Cut out all old (4-5) thick summer shoots.

Pay attention! The cut should be oblique to prevent moisture from accumulating. In this case, it should be slightly higher than the kidney by about 0.5-1 cm. This last kidney should be external so that next year the branch will go outside, and not inside the bush.

How to properly prune roses for the winter: pruning features for each variety

The number and quality of buds for the next year directly depends on a skillful and thoughtful approach to the subtleties of pruning each variety of roses.

Pruning standard roses in autumn

Standard roses are pruned for the winter depending on what species is grafted onto the standard: climbing, hybrid tea or Floribunda.

Pruning climbing roses for the winter

Climbing roses need to be pruned in the fall depending on their type:

Autumn pruning of hybrid tea roses

Hybrid tea roses are pruned for the winter by approximately by 1/2 or to the height of the shelter, as a rule, this is 40-50 cm from the ground. As a result, there remains approximately 2-4 buds on each shoot.

Pruning Floribunda roses for the winter

The intensity of pruning Floribunda roses in autumn for winter directly depends on how full and long you want the bushes to be next year:

• If you shorten the shoots too much, they will be small but lush, with many flowers throughout the bush.
• On the contrary, if you leave most of the bush, then next year you will get a fairly tall, but not lush bush, which will mainly bloom in the upper part.

But most often Floribunda roses in autumn pruned identically to hybrid tea, that is, somewhere by 1/2, and this is approximately 40-50 cm, in other words, to make it convenient to build a shelter frame.

Autumn pruning of polyanthus roses

Similar to hybrid tea and Floribunda Polyanthus roses are also pruned, that is, approximately half or less than the height of the intended shelter frame.

Video: how to prune roses for the winter

How to prepare roses for winter: what else needs to be done in the fall

In addition to pruning, before covering roses for the winter, autumn activities also include:

• autumn feeding (phosphorus-potassium fertilizers that promote the ripening of shoots);

Pay attention! All branches and leaves that will remain after trimming should remove from the site and burn, because various harmful insects and pathogens can overwinter in them.

However, if there are no signs of disease on the leaves, then you can put in compost.

• treatment (3% solution of Bordeaux mixture);
• if you do not process, it is recommended to cover the cuts with garden varnish or special “RanNet” paste:
• shelter.

Advice! Before covering, if the leaves themselves have not fallen (and roses themselves rarely shed them), then they must be carefully tear off with your hands. The fact is that under cover usually high humidity, because of which the leaves begin to gradually wither and rot, and behind them the bush itself can rot.

Pay attention! About how to properly cover roses for the winter, you can find out.

Video: preparing roses for winter

So that the beautiful rose can endure all the hardships of the cold period and not lose its charm in the spring, it absolutely needs pruning. And for this it is necessary to correctly determine the timing of pruning, take into account both the general rules and the characteristics of each variety. In addition to pruning, other activities are also important in the fall: fertilizing, pinching, shelter, etc.

Alternative opinion! Some gardeners believe that roses should never be pruned before winter! You can only cut out small shoots, but long shoots, on the contrary, are easier to bend under cover. Moreover, they don’t even cut off the buds, that is, the bushes go away with flowers before winter. And the main pruning should be done only in the spring, when it is already clear what is left after wintering.

Rejuvenation and maintenance of health - these phrases apply not only to people, but also to flowers, which never tire of delighting us with their blooms throughout most of the season. And roses require pruning to maintain this very health and beautiful flowering. Traditionally, a distinction is made between spring, summer and autumn. In countries with warm climates, the latter is no longer necessary, but in our latitudes it becomes almost the key to the future health of roses.

Why prune roses and is it really necessary?

The most frequently asked questions among gardeners are questions about the need for autumn pruning of roses and the consequences of neglecting it. The answer in most cases is simple: everything is at your discretion. However, this activity was invented for a reason; it definitely has meaning and benefits. What does a gardener gain by pruning roses for the winter?

Firstly, such a plant always grows and develops better and faster. Secondly, useful elements, entering the plant, are distributed evenly over all its parts. Another pleasant thing is that plants get sick less often, because they are removed from old, dried out branches affected by diseases and pests, stopping the problem before it spreads.

Now let’s look at the question “Is it possible not to prune roses for the winter?” Let's remember this: ignoring this autumn event will not affect only wild roses. The cultivated ones growing in our plots, without pruning, after a while lose all their attractiveness, and what’s even worse, they get sick. It is unlikely that anyone who planted roses on the site and put a lot of effort into caring for them during the season will want such a development of events. So should you prune roses for the winter? Definitely yes!

Autumn pruning is needed not only to stimulate the plant to active growth next season - cut rose vines are much easier to cover for the winter than long, thorny shoots that have been neglected.

Pruning roses is a fairly delicate matter, but it is not as difficult as many people think. Depending on the length of the cut shoots, it is divided into short, medium and long.

Light, heavy and moderate pruning at a glance

Short (strong) is considered to be pruning the lash to 2–4 buds from its base. This type is usually carried out in the spring, but it can also rejuvenate the bush or even save it when there is no other choice (this happens with hybrid tea roses).

Average (moderate) - up to 5–7 buds from the base of the lash. Helps roses bloom earlier than usual and increases their decorative value.

Long (weak) - slight shortening of shoots. It is used mainly in the summer to remove faded inflorescences, but for some roses - certain varieties of scrubs and groundcovers - this is the main type of pruning, used for several years until the time comes for serious rejuvenation of the bushes.

Experienced gardeners use combined pruning - a combination of different types - to achieve continuous flowering in roses, in particular in floribunda.

Timing of autumn pruning

When exactly should you prune roses in the fall? The best time for these purposes is the end of October. Exact date will help determine lunar calendar. It is better to prune roses during the waning moon.

As for climbing small-flowered roses, they simply pinch off their growing point. Often they are simply bent to the ground and sheltered from the cold.

Features for different types

Of course, for different types roses have their own characteristics. Some require moderate pruning, others require a combination of pruning, and some only require pruning in spring or summer.

Hybrid tea roses, floribunda, as well as polyanthus, climbing (climbing) and semi-climbing roses must be shortened by half the height. As for tea and standard roses, without pruning it will be problematic to cover them for the winter, so with the onset of stable frosts they are pruned at a height of 45-50 cm from ground level. Unripe and soft shoots must be cut out and leaves removed, as they can serve as a source of infection. These roses are earthed up in September, and immediately after pruning, additional earthing is carried out to a depth of 20-25 cm.

Polyanthaceae and miniature roses do not require heavy pruning: it is enough just to remove the inflorescences just below the point of their branching. After this, they should also be hilled.

Pruning of the inflorescence is carried out just below the place of its branching

The shoots of climbing roses are removed from the arch and laid on the ground. They can be rolled into a ring, or they can be laid out at full length. After this, the base of the bush is hilled and covered with spruce branches.

Large-flowered climbing roses do not need pruning. Their whips are untied from the supports and bent as close to the ground as possible, after which they are secured with metal arches so that they do not straighten.

Semi-climbing roses or scrubs only get rid of soft and immature shoots. The bushes are hilled, and if there is not enough soil under them, compost is added.

Pruning scheme for floribunda, climbing, hybrid tea and other types of roses

Beginning gardeners often reach a dead end when trying to answer the questions: “How to prune roses correctly?” and “How not to do harm?” The following recommendations and advice will help you carry out the procedure correctly without causing harm to the plants.

The pruning tool must be in good working order, sharp, clean and disinfected.

First, choose a clear day without wind. To work, you will need a high-quality, working pruner: there should be no nicks or traces of rust on it. Otherwise, when cutting the stem, the pruner will simply crush and split it, which will make it easier for infection to gain access inside the plant.

Three-year-old shoots whose bark has matured are carefully cut out with a hacksaw.

It is necessary to trim the shoots above the bud at an angle of 45 degrees.

The shoots should be trimmed above the bud facing outward to provide the bushes with maximum light and ventilation. A distance of 0.7 cm is left above it, and the cutting angle should be 45 degrees. You cannot make a cut too close to the kidney - there is a high risk that it will not open. If you retreat too much, the escape will be weak and may not survive.

The correct cut allows water to drain, preventing it from stagnating and therefore preventing the spread of infection.

After finishing pruning, use garden varnish on sections thicker than one centimeter.

This is what a properly trimmed shoot should look like

Before pruning, the pruning shears are disinfected with alcohol. This operation must be repeated regularly. The cut shoots are burned or sent to the dung heap. There, all pathogenic microorganisms will die under the influence of high temperatures.

Activities after pruning

In mid-latitudes, all roses need shelter for the winter. Before you begin to cover the plants, remove the remaining leaves from them, carefully dig up the soil with a pitchfork so as not to damage the roots. If the shoots are long, the bush is dug up on one side and laid on the ground, after which the shoots are collected together, laying them in a convenient direction.

Dry soil is poured under the root until a high mound is formed. Floribunda and climbing roses are almost completely covered with this mound. The poured soil will help preserve the buds in winter.

You can also use spruce branches and dry grass as covering material, creating a layer of them thicker than 10 cm. This method allows you to protect plants during a relatively mild winter. You can build a frame around the bushes and cover it with cardboard, polyethylene or insulating paper. The best material Snow is considered winter, so if there is little snow, additional shelter is required.

Covering the bushes after pruning is actually the only procedure, since pruning itself is the penultimate stage of preparation for winter, which is carried out immediately before the onset of cold weather. By the way, if the first autumn frosts arrive before pruning, do not be alarmed, they will only harden the plants.

Photo gallery of ways to cover roses for the winter

Insulation with fallen leaves Protection from wind and cold wooden frame with film Shelter in the form of a cap made of twigs Stems tied into bunches and bent to the ground - the most simple protection from winter cold Winter protection from metal frame and films A common winter shelter is a frame made of arcs and film

Pruning roses and covering them for the winter (video)

Timely pruning of roses in the fall is the key to their successful wintering and early flowering. It is important to remember that each type of rose requires its own approach, and then you can count on the fact that next season the bushes will begin to actively produce new shoots, set buds and will delight you with their beauty.