How to tile walls with ceiling tiles. Gluing ceiling tiles - the main stages of work. How to glue ceiling tiles with a snake

4 563

Today there are many ways to update the ceiling, which involve the use of a wide variety of types of coatings. One of the least expensive and therefore very common solutions is gluing with polystyrene ceiling tiles. Its cost is low, and the decoration method itself is easy and simple to perform. And so much so that even a beginner who knows how to glue ceiling tiles only theoretically, it can independently create a very interesting coating.

Sticker stages

The process of finishing the ceiling with decorative ceiling tiles includes:

• Selection of materials: decorative tiles, glue
• Preparation of the base surface
• Stream marking
• Gluing tiles.

We select materials

The most popular are traditional polystyrene foam tiles. It is produced in the form of squares 50x50 cm and rectangles 100x16.5 cm. There are three types of polystyrene foam boards on the market for installing the so-called “glued” (“glued”, “glued over”) ceiling:

• Stamped tiles up to 8 mm thick - with a loose porous surface, fragile, low strength, but the cheapest. It is not recommended to wash it.
• Extruded (laminated) tiles with absolutely smooth surface, protected by a waterproof, dust-repellent film - elastic, the strongest and most durable. Happens different colors, with drawings, structured like wood, fabric, marble slab.
• Injection (cast) tiles - thick (9–14 mm) products correct form exclusively white with a relief pattern or a smooth surface, allowing you to create a “seamless” ceiling. The imitation stucco molding looks especially rich. Can be painted.

When choosing one or another type of decorative slabs for the ceiling, you should take into account the category of the room. You can use laminate flooring for the kitchen.

Attention! For rooms with high humidity, only extruded tiles with a water-repellent coating are suitable.

Now about the glue. So how to glue ceiling tiles allowed on any durable absorbent surface, you can use one of the special adhesives available for sale in a huge assortment. Preference should be given to installation polymer compositions recommended in the instructions for the material. Liquid Nails glue and other fast-drying adhesives that adhere well to various base surfaces are also suitable.

Expert tip: To prevent adhesive stains from showing through thin colored ceiling tiles, use transparent adhesive, such as Titanium.

Surface preparation

High-quality finishing is possible only if the surface is relatively flat (holes/bumps no more than 5 mm), well prepared. First of all, you should wash off or otherwise remove the whitewash, clean the ceiling of old finishing materials(wallpaper, tiles), peeling plaster, fill deep cavities and places of significant differences between floor slabs.

It is important! To strengthen the loose ceiling and improve the quality of adhesion, it is advisable to treat the base surface with a primer.

Ceiling tile placement

From existing options The arrangement of slabs on the ceiling is most often parallel and diagonal laying. You can glue plain, colored ceiling tiles, or combinations thereof. For combined option better fit more complex ways stickers: snake, checkerboard, alternating/intersecting diagonals, along the perimeter, in the center, etc.

Ceiling markings

The prepared dry surface must be marked. To do this, you need to determine the point from which installation will begin. Typically, this is the geometric center of the area. It is very simple to calculate: just use two ropes stretched in opposite corners to break off the diagonals. The point of their intersection corresponds to the desired center. Usually there is a chandelier hanging there. If the location of the lamp does not coincide with the center, it is better to take it as the starting point for work.

Features of gluing ceiling tiles

In the case of parallel laying, two lines are drawn at right angles through the center parallel to the walls. It is along them that the first and three other central tiles are aligned, joining at the corners at the starting point. If there is an electrical wire installed there, their corners will need to be cut off a little. Then they will be hidden under a lamp or glass of a chandelier rod, or under a ceiling rosette.

It is very important to properly align the first rows, since they determine how even the subsequent rows will be.

Before how to glue ceiling tiles, it must be kept for some time (up to 15 minutes) in accordance with the instructions for using the glue. In order not to waste time waiting, it is better to apply glue to several tiles at once. Depending on the composition, the mastic is placed in the center and corners of the tile (in most cases) or on specially designed ledges in full or in spots, and also, possibly, on the ceiling. When gluing the tile, you need to hold it for several seconds, pressing it tightly against the ceiling and at the same time preventing its deformation.

While working, do not forget that only strict adherence to the symmetry of the drawing will allow you to create a beautiful, holistic picture. Before gluing the tiles, it is advisable to cut off the flashings located along the edges. This will allow you to form a continuous array of the ceiling, without prominent seams. To prevent moisture and dirt from getting into the cracks, they are filled silicone sealant, level it with a trowel (you can even use your fingers), and remove the excess with a damp cloth. Thanks to this procedure, they achieve a monolithic coating and block the path of moisture, thereby preventing the appearance of streaks and stains.

If it's not entirely clear how to glue ceiling tiles from the central point or you don’t want to bother with calculations, you can start installation from the corner. Many people do this, laying tiles row by row along one of the walls: it’s both easier and faster.

With any laying method, the last rows, as a rule, have to be trimmed and the gaps closed ceiling molding or baseboard.

A little trick: if you don’t want slab fragments last row If they catch your eye, place the first row against the wall opposite the door or window.

The finishing is completed by gluing the ceiling rosette with a cut hole and installing skirting boards around the perimeter of the ceiling. They are fixed with the same glue that was used for the ceiling tiles. To avoid drafts, keep doors and windows closed until the glue dries.

(Visited 793 times, 1 visits today)

Foam tiles are perhaps the most popular material for ceiling decoration. And this is not surprising, because with its help you can create beautiful and practical interiors, while spending a minimum Money, effort and time.

As part of our article, we will tell you how to glue tiles in a diamond pattern and in parallel, without turning to professionals for help.

Technology of gluing plates: from A to Z

Before answering the question “how to properly glue ceiling tiles?”, I would like to talk a little about choosing the right material.

Here it is important to look not only at the aesthetic side, but also at the practical characteristics:

• thickness,
• symmetry and clarity of the design,
• overall quality of the product.

Selection of slabs

The properties and quality of foam tiles may vary depending on the method of their manufacture:

• Pressing method - such tiles are simply stamped from ready-made polystyrene blocks. It has low density, light weight and a thickness of 6-8 mm. Among pressed products, defects are most common.

• Extruded tiles - their density is slightly higher, the surface is smooth and slightly shiny, and appearance can imitate wood, marble and other natural materials.

• Injection products are produced by sintering raw materials inside special molds without destroying the granules. These plates have the most better quality(the seams after pasting are almost invisible), clear relief patterns and a thickness of 9-14 mm.

Advice!
In any case, always pay attention to the quality of the edges of the slabs and the quality of the applied pattern.
The edges should be smooth, clear, and not crumbly.
The drawing is symmetrical, without flaws.
It doesn’t hurt to check the tile for strength: if you grab it by any of its corners, it shouldn’t break from its weight.

Calculation of the amount of material, choice of glue and preparation of tools

Before going to the store, you need to calculate the required number of tiles. To do this, you must find out the area of ​​the ceiling to be pasted and divide it by the area of ​​one tile. Typically, foam products have a size of 50x50 cm, that is, the area of ​​one tile is 0.25 m².

Important!
We recommend buying 10-15% more than this decorative material, in case of pruning and defects.
In addition, if you prefer a diagonal arrangement, then the consumption of tiles will definitely increase.
So keep that in mind.

As for glue, if you want to save money, then instead of liquid nails, use a colorless adhesive composition with a liquid rubber base (Titanium, Econaset, Moment). You will need less of this, but to achieve better fixation you will have to dry it slightly after.

Also, before you start gluing ceiling tiles, prepare the following tools:

• Roulette;
• Building level;
• Scissors;
• Pencil;
• Painting cord;
• Stepladder.

Parallel gluing technology

So that's it preparatory stages passed, now let's move on to the answer to the most main question– how to glue ceiling tiles.

We think it will be much more convenient if we write everything down point by point, in the sequence in which this process should take place.

1. Ceiling preparation. In most cases, gluing is carried out on whitewash, so the surface must first be treated with a primer and wait until it dries. This will ensure reliable adhesion of the tiles to the ceiling.

Advice!
If you don’t have it at home, simply dilute PVA glue with water in a ratio of 1:3.

If the whitewash was applied in a thick layer and does not adhere well, it is better to remove it with a spatula.

Another important condition, which must be observed before gluing ceiling tiles: leveling the ceiling if there are pronounced differences in heights. These happen mainly in old houses with unevenly laid floor slabs. If this is not done, then there is a high probability of product detachment and the appearance of cracks - the effect of a beautiful monolithic finish will be lost.

1. Marking. For some reason some people think this stage not mandatory and rely on their eye, for which they later pay for the “suddenly” jambs that appear after installation. Do you want to get really high-quality results? Then don’t be lazy to apply the markings!

To do this you need from the carrier façade wall Mark a line with a level at a strictly 90º angle. And then draw parallel lines from it, retreating a certain distance. This way you will get an even ceiling marking.

Advice!
To draw straight lines, use a painting cord - it is much more convenient to do this with it.

1. Applying glue. It is applied along the entire perimeter of the tile and diagonally (i.e., in a cross) in a not too thick layer. You should not coat the ends of the product, this will only increase the seams and leave unsightly edges. glue traces. This process should not be delayed, as it will take just a few minutes.
2. How to properly glue ceiling tiles, where to start? It is best to start from the most visible corner of the room and complete the pasting above the door, so that the last incomplete row is more inconspicuous.

After applying adhesive to the foam board, press it firmly against the ceiling and gently smooth it out for even adhesion. To ensure that there are no gaps between the products, do not forget to first join them, and only then press them tightly to the ceiling. When joining, also pay attention to the symmetry of the pattern.

Attention!
No additional fixation is required here.
There is also no need to apply adhesive to the ceiling.

For the outer rows near the walls, you will have to carefully trim the tiles. This is easy to do with a ruler and a knife. And to hide the cracks around the perimeter of the room and give the ceiling a finished look, finally glue foam baseboards.

They are installed using the same glue as the tiles. In order to beautifully join the plinth at the corners, cut its ends at an angle of 45º. On external corners As a rule, special plastic corners are glued.

If there is already a chandelier hanging in the room, and there is no desire to remove it, then it is better to start pasting the ceiling from the place where it was hung. Before this, through the suspension point lighting fixture draw two perpendicular lines parallel to the walls.

Then glue the first four pieces along them. Simply glue subsequent tiles next to the first ones, not forgetting to match the edges and corners.

Note!
In the place where the chandelier fasteners are located, the corners of the tiles will have to be cut off a little.
But don’t worry, in the future this can be covered with a special ceiling rosette or the plate of the chandelier itself.

Diagonal gluing technology

Foam tiles can be laid not only parallel to the walls. Pasted with diamonds, it will look much more original. But how to glue tiles diagonally?

This scheme is practically no different from the usual method; the most important thing here is to correctly mark the ceiling.

And to do this you need to do the following:

1. Determine the center of the ceiling by drawing two perpendicular lines connecting the midpoints of parallel walls.

1. Glue the first plate in the center so that its corners coincide with the drawn axes.
2. Then glue the tiles from the center to the wall along all axes alternately.

1. Lay the rest of the ceiling surface with solid tiles.

1. Again, using a ruler and a knife (or scissors, whichever you prefer), cut out pieces to cover the small remaining areas along the edges of the ceiling. If you do this sparingly, a single foam tile can yield several suitable pieces.

1. After completing this process, arm yourself with a damp cloth and remove any remaining glue and pencil marks from the products.
2. Now you can also glue foam skirting boards.

For your information!
If you chose white ceiling tiles, you can fill the seams and paint the updated ceiling with acrylic or water-based paint in the shade you would like.

Do you want to do something more unusual and extraordinary than pasting parallel to the walls or in diamond shapes? Try combining these two methods using tiles various colors: chessboard, snake, alternating or intersecting colored diagonals, edging around the perimeter of the ceiling, squares in the center and other figures.

By the way, you can also play with the texture of the tiles. In other words, you have a fairly wide field for imagination - experiment!

Conclusion

This is how the ceiling is decorated with foam plastic products. As you can see, the technology is not complicated, and the gluing process itself is not easily soiled. All the work can be done alone, without any help. Besides, this method finishing is also notable for the fact that pasting can be interrupted at any time and continued at a time convenient for you.

Don't forget one thing important rule: before gluing the tiles, marking the ceiling is a mandatory step! And the video in this article will tell Additional information on this topic, let's take a look!

Foam ceiling tiles are very beautiful, affordable and in a simple way ceiling decoration. Variations of designs on the market are presented in wide range for every taste (from laconic to complex designs). Depending on the quality and complexity of the drawing, the price varies. It can be in any desired color in whole or in part. Often it is coated in silver or gold to match the interior, and visually such tiles cannot be distinguished from expensive materials.

Properly glued polystyrene foam tiles will not cause any trouble and are easy to work with in the future.

Ceiling tile adhesive. What to glue

The choice of glue will ensure long-term use, ease of gluing, and the ability to apply a layer the right proportions. Gluing slabs to the ceiling is quite a difficult task, since if the glue does not have fast astringent properties, then you have to hold the slab for a long time, which is not very convenient. Designed adhesive for gluing ceiling tiles has a time delay for regulation building material and drying time. Drywall adhesive is excellent for gluing tiles to the ceiling.

Jpg" alt="Choosing adhesive for ceiling tiles" width="560" height="420" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/potolochnaya_plitka_kley..jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px">!}

Many owners want to use tiles to create a continuous sheet, without gaps. But, unfortunately, this will not work ideally, since the size of the plates differs by several millimeters.

We begin to glue the foam ceiling tiles. Different ways

The first plate should be glued to the place where it will be. This is due to the fact that the central part of the ceiling should look more solid and already diverge from it in all directions.

Using a tape measure, find the center of the ceiling and draw a line along it. It is along this that the tiles will be glued for evenness. If you decide to glue the tiles diagonally, then you need to draw a line (conveniently with a thread) from one corner to the other. The first two rows of glued tiles will set the trend for the overall picture - evenness, appearance. Scheme of where to start gluing:

Data-lazy-type="image" data-src="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/shema.jpg" alt="Options for gluing tiles" width="666" height="229" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/shema..jpg 300w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/shema-1024x353.jpg 1024w" sizes="(max-width: 666px) 100vw, 666px">!}

Using a notched trowel, apply a layer of adhesive, and then glue 4 tiles. This will help to draw the desired plane. Until the glue has set, the plates can be adjusted one to another to achieve best result depending on the curvature of the ceiling and the characteristics of the material itself. The first four is glued along the drawn line, and the second one is next to it. The remaining tiles must be glued first lengthwise, then widthwise.

Jpg" alt="Gluing ceiling tiles" width="526" height="393" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/potolochnaya_plitka_pokleika..jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 526px) 100vw, 526px">!}

The started row must be completed, otherwise you may end up with either a gap or a tooth. Before the glue dries completely, you need to observe the behavior of the tile in order to correct it before the glue sets. Foam plastic tends to bend, and to prevent the formation of a bump during work, it is worth using a rule or level. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to glue tiles onto whitewash or wallpaper with their own hands and what kind of glue to use? Yes, you can, if you do not use glue water based, as it will wet the whitewash and it will fall off along with the tile. To lay tiles in a diamond shape, you need to start from the center and work towards the edges. Next, trim the tiles in place and fit them along the edge of the wall.

Completion of gluing

Some people worry and cut the tiles close to the wall. This should not be done, as you can leave a gap of 1 cm to the wall. When gluing a baguette or

In this article we will tell you in detail and show you how to properly glue ceiling tiles, what types of tiles are available for sale, and show photos of real work.

Advantage of ceiling tiles

Of the variety of materials for ceiling finishing, polystyrene foam ceiling tiles occupy a leading position. Its low cost and ease of use made it a favorite.

But there are other nuances. Finishing the ceiling with foam tiles:

• Increases the thermal insulation of the room;
• Reduces noise levels;
• Changes the appearance of the room;

Behind simple phrases about insulation, in fact, lies a deep subtext. Warm air rises up and heats the floor slab. The thickness of the tiles varies from 8 to 14 mm. Its thermal conductivity is at least 25 times worse than that of concrete. Consequently, if the work is carried out correctly, 25 cm of concrete is added to the thermal insulation of the room in the most vulnerable place.

Sound insulation is limited only by impact noise, but nevertheless, the sound absorption of polystyrene foam is 7 times better than that of concrete.

The appearance of the room greatly depends on the surface of the ceiling. The reason here lies in the specifics of human vision. The sector located above eye level, he sees 17% more than the one below. Therefore, the ceiling immediately “catches the eye” upon entering the room.

And all this pleasure can be obtained at a price of 50 rubles/m2.

Types of polystyrene foam ceiling tiles

Despite the fact that it is made from polystyrene foam, the raw materials themselves can be prepared different ways, and the process of making tiles is also different. This variability allows you to divide ceiling tiles into three main groups:

1. Stamped;
2. Injection;
3. Extruded.

They differ in appearance only upon close examination. If you carefully stick the ceiling tiles and then carry out the correct processing, then no one will notice the difference.

1. Stamped tiles are made from coarse-grained polystyrene foam using the pressing method. It is the cheapest, its thickness is 6-8 mm. Extrusion occurs without heating, which leads to increased fragility.

However, it can quickly tidy up the ceiling in a garage or country house. It will be cheaper, and the appearance will be noticeably better.

1. Injection tiles are produced by pressing, but in this case polystyrene foam is used of higher quality. The feedstock is fine-grained, it has more high density. Pressing occurs with slight heating. This reports finished products special smoothness, and graininess is noticeable only at the fracture. The edges are smooth, without rounding or burrs. Thickness 9-14 mm.

Injection tiles can be painted. And for the “Lux” varieties, a polymer protective film is applied.

A “seamless coating” is created from this type of foam tile.

1. Extruded tiles are made from polystyrene. That is, this raw material did not even foam. Respectively, manufacturing process carried out by melt extrusion method. The resulting product has a thickness of 2.5-3.5 mm. These tiles are the most durable and smooth. When broken, it becomes deformed, with the appearance of a fold line. Color variations are possible.

Thermal and sound insulation of such products is an order of magnitude lower. In fact, they should be called polystyrene tiles, not foam tiles.

The lion's share of foam tiles square shape, size 0.5 x 0.5 or 0.3 x 0.3 m. It is much less common to find rectangular or hexagonal specimens. There are also tiles with curly edges.

The texture and pattern on each element can be absolutely any. But there are interesting models with a 3D effect. By manipulating the depth, size, shape and color of the pattern, manufacturers try to give the finished coating a special three-dimensional perception of the entire surface. With skillful use of lighting and the correct orientation of each element, you can give the ceiling a futuristic design.

Which glue is better

Ceiling tiles have one flaw - they are afraid of solvents, which contain acetone and toluene. Therefore, only water-dispersed adhesives are suitable for working with it. It could be PVA or Bustilat.

This work can be done more efficiently using silicone or acrylic sealant.

The ideal option is glue " Liquid Nail" or "Moment Montage". They come in a convenient tube that allows you to dose the required amount of glue. But their main advantage is the high adhesive properties of the adhesive composition. When working with such compositions, it is enough to attach the element with applied glue to the ceiling and press for 5-10 seconds.

Ceiling preparation

The only condition is dust removal from the surface. There are two ways to achieve this.

1. Complete cleaning. This radical way, but the quality of fixation is incomparably better.

Depending on the type of ceiling covering, preparation is carried out according to different scenarios. Whitewash, thoroughly sprayed warm water from a spray bottle, wait 10-15 minutes, and then remove it using a wide spatula. With a scrupulous approach, the whitewash will fall off in layers. After this, the surface is sprayed with water again and the remaining whitewash is washed off with a brush.

If there was wallpaper on the ceiling, then they are also treated with warm water from a spray bottle, but the water consumption will be greater. It is necessary to saturate the wallpaper. After waiting 10 minutes, the paper material is carefully removed.

After drying, the clean surface must be primed.

1. Regardless of how the ceiling is decorated, a primer is applied to its surface deep penetration. This is an option for the lazy. The reliability of the adhesive connection will be somewhat worse, the process will be much cleaner.

TIP: to avoid spreading dirt, spread a “covering film” in the room. Fix it with masking tape to the wall, at a height of 50 cm. Thus, a kind of trough will be formed where all the garbage will collect.

Preparing the tiles

No preparation is required for extruded tiles. But with injection and stamped they proceed as follows.

Regardless of whether the work will take place in summer or winter, expanded polystyrene has the ability to be saturated with air moisture, slightly changing its geometric dimensions. The changes are very small, but after gluing, small gaps may appear at the junction of the mosaic elements.

Therefore, the tiles must be kept at room temperature for 2-3 days. During this period, the working material will acquire the humidity of the room where it will be located.

Gluing options and markings

There are three options in total:

1. Straight;
2. Diagonal;
3. Art.

At the same time, if you organize gluing with a run, it gives a special zest.

Each of these methods requires special planning to create the integrity of the composition.

1. Straight. In this option for placing elements, work begins from the most visible wall. That is, if there is a closet along one of the walls, but the pasting should end in this place. Because this is where the cut tiles are most likely to be. Therefore, it should start from the opposite wall.

There are some limitations to this option. In particular, if the walls in the room have discrepancies in linear dimensions of more than 4-5 cm, then the direct method of pasting can only be done with tiles with a small, kaleidoscopic pattern. With the obligatory formation of a “seamless coating”.

The reason here lies in the fact that long straight lines on the ceiling will sharply emphasize the curvature of the walls. This will be especially evident in places adjacent to the curved vertical plane.

If the difference in the linear dimensions of the walls is less than 4-5 cm, then this flaw can be hidden with a wide ceiling plinth.

1. Diagonal method. In this case, the fixation of elements begins from the geometric center of the room. But depending on whether the room is square or rectangular, markings are carried out in different ways.

In a square room, alternately stretch the painting cord in two diagonals and mark two lines. At the place of their intersection, 4 corners of four tiles should be connected. In the future, gluing will be carried out in orientation to the marked lines.

If the room is rectangular, then through this center, you need to draw two more diagonal lines, but in such a way that the ends of the diagonals fall on the corners of a virtual square, with a side length equal to the length of the short wall of the room. Only with such markings, square tiles can be laid correctly in a rectangular room.

1. The artistic method does not offer any specific marking. It is created depending on the intended pattern.

In this case, the tile can be glued in a spiral, or elements of different colors and shades can be combined in a mosaic pattern.

TIP: very often, the geometric center of the room does not coincide with the wiring output for the central chandelier. This flaw is corrected in the following way. In the ceiling slab, they cut a groove 2-3 mm deep, to the center of the room. The wiring is laid in it and fixed there with reinforced tape.

How to glue tiles

To work you will need:

• Ladder;
• Liquid nails and gun;
• Construction knife;
• Tape measure and pencil;
• Masking tape.

The work can be done alone, but in order not to go down for each tile, attach a large bag to the top of the stepladder, where you will place everything you need.

The glue is applied to the tiles in small dots, the size of a ruble coin. One in the center + 4 in the corners. Having placed the smeared tile in its place, move it slightly, and then press firmly for 10-15 seconds.

There is no need to pre-cut a hole where the wires for the chandelier exit. Glue the entire tile, but slightly break the corners to bring the wires out. Subsequently, the clamping cap of the lamp, or socket, will be located here. This will hide the uneven edges of the hole.

The tiles near the wall are cut with a construction knife, having previously determined the location of the cut. To ensure a clean edge, hold the knife at a sharp angle and place the tile on a flat surface.

The time for complete drying of the glue is indicated on the packaging. Usually this is 24 hours.

Afterwards, you can glue the ceiling plinth with the same glue. Please note that the plinth is glued only to the wall. They press him to the ceiling.

Coloring

For stamped ceiling tiles, this procedure is essential. The fact is that the porous surface of such tiles accumulates dust very easily. Within six months, even in a very clean rooms, upon careful inspection, you can notice dust deposits. They appear as dark inclusions in the patterns of each element. It is almost impossible to remove contaminants from polystyrene foam. Especially considering that this is a rather fragile material.

This scenario can be prevented by applying silicone varnish to the surface of the tile. This is a water-soluble composition that forms an elastic and water-repellent coating after drying.

After this treatment, the surface can be wet cleaned.

Ceiling tiles are a lightweight polystyrene material that has been popular for many years. After all, with its help you can hide defects in the ceiling surface and decorate it with tiles of different shades and with different patterns. The tiles are easy to work with, they are glued easily and quickly. Even a beginner can handle this, provided he knows how to glue ceiling tiles correctly. We will talk about this in detail in this article.

Textured tiles on the ceiling create an atmosphere of aristocratic luxury in the room.

Ceiling tiles can be glued horizontally and diagonally. It is believed that tiles glued diagonally better mask the curvature of the surface. The material lasts a long time without requiring any special care conditions. A damaged element can always be replaced (in the kitchen you often have to replace the tiles located above the stove).

How to glue ceiling tiles: video instructions

How to properly glue tiles to the ceiling

The first thing you need to do is prepare all the materials and tools that will be used. They should be at hand during work. Then you won’t have to be distracted and irritated by little things. You will need a minimum number of tools. Prepare sharp knife stationery, large scissors for cutting tiles, painting cord for marking the ceiling (if you don’t have it, take chalk). You will also need glue and the actual ceiling tiles, the choice of which we will discuss separately.

Kitchen ceiling tiles don't have to be fancy, but they should be easy to clean.

For preparatory work you will need a sharp narrow spatula, a deep penetration primer, a roller, brushes, rags and simple pure water. If you decide to paint the glued tiles, you will need water-based paint. Most often, ceiling tiles are painted white, but you can paint the surface any color you like, or even use multiple colors. It all depends on your design idea.

Choosing tiles and adhesive

Depending on the production method, the following types of ceiling tiles are distinguished:

• pressed (6-8 mm thick), this is the simplest and cheapest tile, you won’t achieve a wide variety of decors, but you can hide minor defects in the ceiling;
• injection (9-14 mm), which is considered a higher quality tile;
• extruded tiles are the highest quality, they are low-grained, smooth, but are more expensive than other types of ceiling tiles.

Tiles of different colors and textures from different manufacturers presented on the building materials market

When choosing ceiling tiles, pay attention to the correct shape and dimensional accuracy. If you decide to buy the cheapest pressed tiles, remember that the sizes may not be the same even within the same batch. The discrepancy seems insignificant, but it will be noticeable on the ceiling; you will not be able to achieve a perfect fit. The corner should be straight, not rounded. Only by choosing high-quality tiles can you make the seams even. In addition, your work will be easy and pleasant. Try not to skimp on material. Also evaluate the evenness of the edges and the grain of the tile. The edges should be smooth and not crumble. Another sign of high-quality ceiling tiles is the same size of polystyrene grains on them.

Ceiling tiles can be suture or seamless. Seamless tiles have jagged edges that match each other (like a key to a lock). In this case, the seams on the ceiling are invisible. The joint tiles have smooth edges and the seams on the ceiling are visible. So think about what tile would be better suited to the design of the room.

Seamless ceiling tiles - good choice for perfectionists

An important criterion for choosing a tile is the pattern on it. Polystyrene ceiling tiles can be simple and smooth, or they can be decorated with complex patterns. If you have chosen tiles with a complex pattern, in the process of gluing the ceiling a situation may arise, as when gluing wallpaper with a pattern - it will have to be adjusted. This means that you need to take extra tiles. To help you on back side tile manufacturers indicate the direction of the pattern with arrows. Tiles with a simple pattern that does not require adjustment can be glued either side to any side.

The main requirements that consumers place on glue are good adhesive properties and the absence of solvents hazardous to humans. Construction stores offer a huge number of brands of glue from domestic and foreign manufacturers intended for products made of polystyrene foam. It is, of course, difficult for the consumer to make the right choice.

For gluing the ceiling, glue “Eco-carrying”, “Titan”, “Moment” is often used. The first two adhesives are from Polish manufacturers. Both glues have good adhesive characteristics. But when installing ceiling tiles, the elements must be pressed against the ceiling until the glue sets. “Moment” in this regard has an advantage over Polish adhesives, since it sets instantly. But you will need much more of this glue, which will affect costs. In addition, you will need a special gun for sealants.

Glue and mounting gun — necessary tools for installation of ceiling tiles

Eco-naset adhesive for ceiling tiles is chosen by those who value the harmlessness of building materials

But these three types of glue are only a small part of what is offered in construction stores. In principle, everything sticks well. Therefore, decide which glue to use to glue the ceiling tiles based on your financial capabilities.

Manufacturers offer many different types ceiling tile adhesive

Mastic can also serve as adhesive for ceiling tiles. glue ceilings, and even ordinary putty. Many experts and DIY repair enthusiasts recommend making your own glue by mixing plaster, putty and PVA glue in equal quantities. But remember that plaster dries very quickly, so do not dilute too much adhesive, make enough to work it out in 10 minutes.

Surface preparation

Before gluing tiles to the ceiling, you should carry out preparatory work. Thoroughly clean and, if necessary, level the surface of the ceiling. If the ceilings are covered with plywood or chipboard, prime the surface. Before starting work, the ceiling must be clean, grease-free and dry. The adhesive is applied to the tiles pointwise, since the weight of the elements is small. Apply glue from a can or bottle directly to the surface.

To ensure that the tiles lie flat and hold securely, you should take care of high-quality preliminary preparation surfaces

Many people have difficulties with tiling the ceiling. electrical wires for lamps. If the chandelier is located in the center of the room, it is better to start pasting from here. Place four tiles around the wire so that there is a gap between them. Cut off the ends of the corners of the tile that touch the wire. Don’t worry that it will be noticeable, everything will be covered by the glass of the chandelier.

If you decide to glue the ceiling from the wall, and not from the center, then on the tile that covers the exit point of the electrical wire, you need to make a hole for the wire. In this case, you need to glue the tiles row by row, starting from the wall, and when you reach the location of the chandelier, measure the distance from the beginning of the tile to the point where the wire exits, make a hole in the tile, turn off the power to the apartment and pull the wires into the hole made. Even if the hole is a little larger, it will also be closed by the glass of the chandelier.

How to beautifully tile a ceiling: finishing options

Decide exactly how you want to place the tiles on the ceiling. There are many options for covering the ceiling with tiles. It all depends on the features of the room and your imagination. In any case, a small amount adhesive composition Apply pointwise to the tile, press the element to the surface of the ceiling, and hold for several minutes. During this time, the glue sets to the surface and the tiles are securely held on the ceiling.

Diagonally, if the chandelier hangs in the center of the ceiling

This happens quite rarely. But if this is your case, marking is easy to do. Pull two threads diagonally, mark the point of their intersection. This will be the center, which should coincide with the exit point of the wire for the chandelier. Draw two lines through the center perpendicular to each other. Thus, the ceiling surface is divided into 4 equal parts. The first square is glued so that one of its corners is located exactly in the designated center of the room. Next we move along the drawing. The tiles should be glued to the ceiling closely, without leaving gaps or seams; wipe off any remaining adhesive with a dry cloth.

Tiling the ceiling starts from the center of the room - this makes it easier to avoid overlaps and mismatches

What if the chandelier is not in the center of the room?

The tiles are glued similarly to the first case, but the markings are done slightly differently. Two perpendicular straight lines are drawn through the point where the chandelier hangs. These straight lines should be parallel to the walls of the room. In the resulting right angles we draw lines at an angle of 45 degrees. Next, we glue the ceiling tiles in the same way as in the first option.

How to glue ceiling tiles with a snake

To do this, you will need ceiling tiles of two colors. It is important to choose two colors that go well together. Mark the ceiling surface as in the first or second option. The tiles are glued from the center according to the drawing.

“Snake” is one of the common methods of laying ceiling tiles

How to glue tiles to a ceiling in a checkerboard pattern

You should also start from the center of the room, which we find by drawing diagonals. It is very important to arrange the elements so that they are strictly parallel to the walls, otherwise general form the ceiling will be damaged. There are times when it is not practical to glue ceiling tiles from the center of the room. For example, if the room is small, when tiling the ceiling from the center there will be a significant overuse of tiles. Or in cases where the room is narrow and long (a corridor, for example), it can be difficult to correctly mark the ceiling and glue the tiles in the center parallel to the walls. In this case, it is better to glue the ceiling tiles, moving from the edges to the center.

Tiles laid in a checkerboard pattern always produce the desired decorative effect

Possible difficulties when working with ceiling tiles

Difficulties may arise due to mismatched tile sizes. These dimensional errors are, at first glance, unnoticeable, but when the design is strictly adjusted, they become noticeable. Therefore, do not glue the tile until you are sure that its dimensions correspond to the dimensions of the previous tile. If there are any discrepancies, cut off the excess tiles with a paper cutter or utility knife. You should cut along a ruler, then the cut will be even. Experts recommend cutting ceiling tiles by placing them on a sheet of corrugated cardboard. Cardboard from packaging for household appliances is perfect.

Another problem that often arises when tiling a ceiling is the gaps between the tiles and the wall. This occurs due to the unevenness of the walls. If this distance does not exceed 15 mm, you don’t have to worry about it - everything will close ceiling skirting boards(fillets), which are glued along the entire perimeter of the ceiling.