What material is needed for puttying the walls. How to putty walls - getting a perfectly smooth surface. How to putty walls for painting with your own hands

Smooth walls - an attribute good repair but hiring a team is expensive. Puttying the walls with your own hands is not so difficult that it could not be dealt with. It is important to follow all the steps in sequence. Immediately receive perfect wall it is unlikely that it will turn out for painting, but you can putty under the wallpaper without much difficulty. And to help you, a description of the process, photos and videos.

What are and when to use

Putty is the preparation of surfaces for finishing. fine finish. With its help, they ensure that the wall is (or looks) perfectly flat. It is applied to relatively flat surfaces. If you need . Putty is not intended for this.

Like plasters, putties consist of a binder, filler and additives that give them special properties. They are distinguished from plasters by the use of aggregates - sand - fine fractions. There are two types of binder used - cement or gypsum, sometimes lime is added to them, polymer additives. Accordingly, there are gypsum and cement putties.

There are also polymer putties - acrylic and latex. They are based on synthetic substances, the properties of which vary depending on the additives. They are not natural, but have a longer lifespan and withstand more freeze/thaw cycles. For facade work, it is better to choose them. Indoors they are not the best the best choice, as they have low vapor permeability, which can cause damp walls, the appearance of fungus and mold. They are convenient in that they can be used on wooden and metal surfaces.

According to the type of application, all putties are divided into two types: starting and finishing. In the starting ones, grains of sand of a larger size are used - 0.3-0.8 mm. As a result, the surface is slightly rough. They are used at the first stage to seal cavities and cracks. In the finishing compositions, sand is practically dust with a very fine grain of 0.1-0.3 mm. This allows you to get a smooth surface.

Cement plasters - scope, advantages and disadvantages

Cement plasters are cheaper than gypsum plasters, they can be applied in a thicker layer - some compositions up to 10 mm. After mixing (mixing with water) they can be used for about 3 hours. The plasticity of the composition is affected by temperature and humidity. Usually it is specified for +20°C and 60-65% humidity.

Cement plasters are universal. They are used both for decoration inside the building and outside. Moreover, most of the facade compositions are made on the basis of cement, as they withstand more defrosting / freezing cycles and create a more durable surface. They also feel better wet rooms. If you need to plaster a bathroom or kitchen, use better composition based on cement.

Cement plaster can be white, maybe gray

The color of cement plasters can be gray, white and ultra-white. It depends on the type of cement used. White compositions are more expensive, as more expensive brands are used, therefore finishing compositions are more often made white.

Flaw cement plasters- long setting time - several days for complete drying - this is the norm. It should take several hours before applying the next layer. From 2-3 hours with a layer of 1 mm, up to 24 hours with a thickness of 6 mm. Since it is rarely possible to achieve a smooth surface in one layer - there may be three or more - then puttying with cement plasters stretches for a long time. For this reason, their popularity is quite low.

Gypsum putties, their features

The layer of application of gypsum putty is 0.5-10 mm, depending on the type. They dry much faster, which has a positive effect on the speed of finishing work. On the other hand, the mixed composition must be used within 30-60 minutes, so such putties are kneaded in small portions. This is not very convenient. If you are going to putty the walls with your own hands for the first time, start with small batches. Gradually decide how much you can work out at a time. Also note that the consumption of the starting plaster is greater than the finishing plaster - the thickness of the layer is different and do not be mistaken in volume.

Gypsum plasters without modifying additives are intended for dry rooms. There are formulations for wet ones, but this must be indicated on the packaging, as they contain hydrophobic additives.

Despite the higher price and short shelf life of the closed portion, gypsum-based plasters are now more popular. They are more plastic, with their use it is easier to achieve the required smoothness of the surface, it is easier to work with them for beginners and professionals. If wall putty is still unfamiliar to you, use gypsum compounds.

Technology

The method of applying plasters is the same for any composition. What matters is only the observance of the recipe indicated on the package (the ratio of water and dry matter) and the time for which it must be used. The rest of the plastering technique is the same.

Foundation preparation

Work begins on a dry and clean base. If there is an old coating, everything that can fall is cleaned off, cracks are expanded, screws and nails, residues of wallpaper and other coatings are removed.

Sadly, both paint and whitewash must be removed. Paint for the reason that putty does not adhere well to it, and if it does stick, it may subsequently fall off. Whitewash is removed because it is loose. With it, after priming, the adhesion is normal, but after a while the finish begins to crack and flake off. If you do not want to redo the ceiling or wall in a year and a half, the lime must be cleaned off.

After the old coating is removed, dust is removed. If there is an industrial vacuum cleaner, you can use it (household is impossible - it will break). If there is no such equipment, you can walk first with a dry broom, then with a brush, and finally, with a slightly damp cloth, collect the remnants.

Primer

Priming walls for plaster is used to ensure that the materials adhere better. Its second task is to reduce the amount of moisture absorbed by the base. This is very important on porous surfaces such as brick, dry plastered wall, etc. On loose and crumbling walls, special compounds are used. deep penetration. They bind the particles of the material to each other, increasing the overall strength of the base.

To get guaranteed good result this step is best not to skip. Even despite the fact that primers cost a lot.

Primers are sold either as ready-to-use mixtures or as liquid concentrates. The second type requires additional dilution with water. In any case, before use, carefully read the instructions and follow them strictly.

Usually the technology is as follows: the composition is poured into the container, distributed over the surface with a brush or roller. In difficult places - corners and bends, thoroughly pass with a brush. If two or more layers are needed, they are applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Tools

Directly for puttying the walls you will need only two spatulas. One large, with a long blade (300-600 mm) and one small. The small composition is taken out of the container and distributed over the blade of the large one. They also remove the remnants from the blade and again distribute them along the edge. A large spatula is needed directly to distribute the composition on the wall.

The blade of a large spatula should be stainless steel. It should be flexible, without nicks and scratches. If you look at it "in profile" you can see that its ends are slightly bent to one side. This was done on purpose so that when puttying walls or ceilings, stripes from the edges of the blade do not appear on the surface. You can also work with a straight spatula, but at the same time you cannot get rid of the stripes, as a result - after drying you will have to compare them, and this is a long and dusty job.

You will also need a container in which putty and a construction mixer or a drill with a stirring nozzle are diluted. It is better to take a plastic container - a bucket or a basin with high sides. Pay attention to the shape of the bottom. The transition from the bottom to the walls should be smooth. Then it is possible to mix the entire composition without residue and lumps.

Wall putty technique

In general, everything has already been said, but let's focus on the process and sequence of work. First, putty is kneaded. Water is poured into a bucket, a dry composition is added to it, making sure that there are no lumps. You have to wait for some time until the whole mass gets wet, then you can stir. Kneading can be mechanical or manual. This is indicated on the packaging with putty. When you have achieved a homogeneous composition without lumps, you can begin work.

It is necessary to apply putty on the wall with a large spatula. The composition is superimposed on it with a small one, forming a roller two to three centimeters wide and about a centimeter high on the edge of the blade. If the composition is thick, you can take more solution, if liquid, it can flow, because the roller is not made big size.

Step 1. Starting putty. If there are large irregularities - more than 3 mm, they are first covered with a starting putty. If the irregularities are only in places, only they are repaired, bringing them to the same level with the surface. If there are a lot of them, you will have to putty the entire surface. At work it is advisable not to exceed the maximum allowable layer thickness, otherwise cracks may appear or the finish will fall off. If there are no significant irregularities, you can do without this layer. But in this case, the consumption of the finishing composition will be greater, and it costs more than the starting one.

The thickness of the putty layer that remains on the wall is regulated by the angle of the spatula. If it is strongly inclined to the wall, the layer remains thicker, if the angle is closer to a straight line (60-70 °) - it can be 1 mm.

There is another technique for applying putty. It's called "on the edge". In this case, the spatula is placed perpendicular to the wall. As a result, only pores, stripes and other defects are smeared, the consumption is minimal. But this technique only works for smooth walls, without deviations in geometry. putty uneven walls with differences of more than 1-2 mm using this technique is impossible.

Step 2 Leveling the First Layer. After the starting layer has dried (the time is indicated on the package), sandpaper is taken for grinding and the most prominent irregularities are leveled with it. Most often these are stripes, but due to inexperience, bumps can also appear. After grinding is completed, the dust from the walls is swept away with a broom, then they pass with a dry brush.

Step 3. Finishing wall putty. A layer of finishing putty is applied to the cleaned walls, no more than a few millimeters thick. At this stage, you should already try to get flat surface, carefully leveling the composition. Leave to dry.

Step 4 Aligning the Finishing Layers. For this stage, a grid with a smaller cell is taken. Trying to get a flat surface. Good lighting is essential for good results. Also, the absence of defects is checked with the palm of your hand.

That's all. Then steps 3 and 4 are repeated until the result satisfies you. A little about the extent to which it is necessary to align the walls. It all depends on the type of finish you choose. If the wall putty is made under the wallpaper, there is no need to achieve perfect smoothness. Even the thinnest wallpaper hides small differences. Less demanding on the surface of multilayer paper wallpaper duplex or triplex. More level ground it is necessary for a non-woven base, as well as for all vinyl wallpapers except for foamed and textured ones.

The requirements for putty for painting are higher. The paint does not hide even the most minor flaws, so you have to level up to perfect condition. Up to six very thin coats may be needed.

How to make smooth corners with putty

Several ways you saw in the video - it's just good to shoot the mass from the very corner. Everything seems simple, but in practice it turns out with difficulty and not very smoothly. There are special corner spatulas for novice plasterers for the outer and inner corner.

Having applied a certain amount of putty to the corner, they are carried out, removing the excess and forming an ideal line. They are easier to work with.

Self-puttying the walls is not an easy task. To make the surface perfectly flat is possible only with experience. It is equally important to choose the right composition and mix it. You should also remember about safety precautions and some features of the work.

The choice of putty

Puttying walls is an important process that should be given Special attention during the renovation. If you miss this stage, then all the irregularities will be noticeable. To avoid this, it is important to have start and finish putty. The first variety is represented by a dry powder of coarse grinding. With the help of such a solution, pre-treatment of surfaces is performed, which makes it possible to hide the most pronounced defects. This process can be seen in the video. Finishing putty in most cases is based on gypsum. If you properly prepare the mixture and follow all the rules for its application, the surface will be perfectly smooth.

In some cases, you can give preference to universal formulations. They are designed for rough and finish application. Naturally, the quality of processing can be a little worse.

On sale there is putty in ready-made. Such compositions are more convenient to use. They are created on linseed oil, polymer, oil and other bases. The cost of such products is quite high, because they are bought infrequently.

Dry mixes enjoy in great demand. They differ in basic components, manufacturer and some characteristics. Accordingly, it is important to carefully read the composition and instructions. If the product is not expired, but it is stored in a room where the humidity level is high, you should refuse to buy.

If you want to apply a starting and finishing coat, then choose a mixture from the same manufacturer. This will ensure better adhesion and, accordingly, a good result.

To level the walls, it is necessary to prepare not only the putty itself and the primer, but also various tools:

Also, to perform the work, you will need several spatulas, namely wide, narrow and angular.

Surface preparation

To result repair work made you happy, you should take it responsibly preliminary preparation walls.

1. First of all, you need to remove the remnants of the old finish. It can be not only wallpaper or plaster, but also a layer of paint.
2. All found cracks and other defects should be repaired. First, problem areas are expanded and dust removed, and then a primer layer is applied. When the surface dries, it must be treated with a sealant. Also suitable and starting putty. After that, the wall is sanded or processed with a manual grater.
3. If there is plasterboard sheathing, it is important to glue the joints with fiberglass mesh and apply a layer of putty on top. Also, the mixture fills all the holes from the screws.
4. When the seams are completely dry, you need to perform a primer treatment. For these purposes, it is better to take a composition with antiseptic properties. Thanks to this layer, the surface will be more durable. A primer is poured into the prepared bath and the walls are treated with a roller, including all the most inaccessible places.

Do-it-yourself puttying

If you purchased dry mix, t o it is important to properly prepare it. To do this, you should first watch the corresponding video and deal with some subtleties. So, for mixing putty, it is better to take a plastic bucket. They pour in here warm water in the amount specified in the instructions. If the composition has a gypsum base, then you do not need to cook a large number of solution, because its shelf life is minimal. When the powder is poured into a container of water, you need to use a drill and stir the components.

Application of the starting layer

For applying the starting putty is use a wide spatula. It is also important to wait for the primer to dry completely. It is customary to apply the composition, starting from the corners. All movements should be smooth and easy, and the stripes should overlap each other by about 70 mm.

After processing each a separate section it is necessary to verify the evenness of the surface using the rule. If desired, you can highlight the wall, which will help you notice all the depressions and other flaws. If there are differences, it is better to treat the area with putty again. For corners you will need a special spatula, because conventional tool it is very difficult to qualitatively align such areas.

After finishing work, it is worth carefully inspecting the walls. A slight curvature is acceptable, because the finishing layer will hide it later. When the compound dries the surface is rubbed. For this purpose, you will need Sander or hand grater with sandpaper. Thanks to the grout, it will be possible to remove small defects and avoid strong drops. It is important to highlight the walls again. If the depth of the detected depressions is more than 3 mm, you will have to apply the starting layer again.

Application of finishing putty

In order for the walls to be really even even after painting, it is worth taking care of the finishing layer. It also begins to be applied from the corners, moving from the bottom up. The solution is distributed over a wide spatula and applied to the walls, making a slight pressure. As a result, the layer thickness should not exceed 2 mm. In order to immediately notice flaws in the process, you will have to take care of combined lighting.

All work on applying the finishing layer performed in strict order.

1. First you need to apply the composition in 2 layers.
2. After drying, the walls are rubbed using the appropriate tool. If a defect is found, a thin layer of putty mixture will have to be applied.
3. To process corners, you will need a rubber and angle trowel. The first variety is needed to smooth the mixture, and the first helps to correctly form the corner with your own hands.
4. When the puttying work is completed, 1-2 coats of primer should be applied, after which you can proceed to painting or other finishing.

It is important to take into account the fact that when pasting wallpaper it is allowed slight unevenness. This is especially true when a material with a textured pattern is used. When painting, the requirements for puttying are more stringent, because the surface will be smooth, which means that you will notice even minor defects.

Not everyone can properly apply putty on the walls. To avoid common mistakes and competently carry out repairs with your own hands, it is important follow simple guidelines.

Alignment of walls with putty considered a laborious process. You can do this work yourself. To do this, it is worth preparing the walls and applying the starting and finishing layers correctly, using the appropriate construction tools.

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Watching the work of professional plasterers, you will involuntarily admire: everything is so smooth and even they succeed. It seems that it is simply impossible to repeat this with your own hands. This is not true. Puttying is not a difficult job that does not require specialized knowledge. We will describe in detail how to properly putty walls, how to choose the composition of the mixture and what tools you need to work.

Putty - leveling layer to eliminate small defects walls

Putty is a mixture of water with a dry composition. The dry composition may include only gypsum powder or gypsum powder with the addition of chalk, plasticizers or other fillers.

Often the question arises: from putty. In fact, no one knows the answer to it. The composition of putty and putty is the same, the application method is also identical. So it turns out that both of these names refer to the same material intended for leveling walls.

What is putty for?

The main task of putty is a perfectly flat surface suitable for painting or. Not a single repair is complete without a gypsum mixture; this material is used at the final stage of finishing.Putty is applied in several thin layers, each of which fills the smallest irregularities on the surface. With this composition, you can fill irregularities up to 2 cm deep.

Important! Professionals do not advise applying a putty mixture with a thick layer; it can fall off within a couple of days after the repair is completed.

On average, one layer of putty should not exceed 7 millimeters, and the finish layer should not exceed 2 millimeters.

How to choose a putty knife for wall putty

Assortment of tools for plastering works very big. V hardware store eyes just run up, what to choose?For puttying, you will need a wide flat metal spatula with a smooth edge and a spatula - spatula.

When choosing a facade spatula, pay attention to its edge: it is important that it be perfectly even, without nicks. The metal on the edge should not bend. To work outside the building, use a tool up to 60 centimeters wide. For interior work, 30-40 cm wide is enough.

Small spatulas are designed for accurate processing of corners. If you decide to do such work for the first time, do not take a very wide tool, it will be more convenient for small ones to work.

Another important point in the selection of a spatula - its weight. The lighter the tool, the better.It is convenient if the second spatula, blades, wooden handle. She does not slip in her hand. The spatula is selected in such a size that it is convenient to scoop the mixture from the bucket.

The metal part of the tool must be made of stainless steel. Any other option is not suitable, as it will quickly rust from contact with water and will leave marks on the treated surface. On sale you can find spatulas made of durable plastic, but they are much more expensive than metal ones.

Which putty is better and how to choose the composition for the walls

Putty mixtures can have different fillings, let's take a closer look at each type:

Type of mixture	Application features	Application area
Acrylic	putty on acrylic base is flexible and resistant to high humidity. As a result, you will get a flat surface that is resistant to mechanical damage, does not shrink and does not form cracks.	External and internal works, leveling, roughing, starting and finishing
Latex	The plastic mixture forms very thin layers that do not crack or fall off. This finish reacts negatively to lower temperatures.	Only for interior decoration
Gypsum	Used for leveling walls, can be applied in a thick layer. Doesn't respond well to wet air and is destroyed by water. Not resistant to mechanical stress.	For interior work
Cement	Not afraid of negative temperatures, does not react to humidity, resistant to mechanical damage. When applied, it shrinks, and during operation it may crack.	Suitable for facade work and interior decoration

It is impossible to give an unambiguous answer which of the listed mixtures is better. For different conditions you need to select the appropriate compositions. For the facade of the building, it is better to take cement putty, for or - acrylic, for living rooms- latex. If you are thinking about what - take a plaster one.

How to choose a putty mixture for different types of finishes

The putty mixture can be divided into three types by purpose:

• universal;
• finishing;
• starting.

The difference lies in the grain size of the filler. The starting mixture has larger fractions. With its help, you can level surfaces with significant damage: cracks, drops, potholes. The starting putty can be applied in a layer of 2 centimeters thick. It is thrown directly onto a layer of plaster and leveled using the rule.

The task of the finishing layer is to complete the alignment before application. The fractions of this mixture are very small, and the resulting layer looks smooth and even. The final putty has a layer no thicker than 5 mm.The universal mix can be used both as a starter and as a finishing coat. Such compositions are used in cases where the walls do not have significant defects.

Expert point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY"

“If there are significant flaws on the surface to be treated, take the starting and finishing mixture, and not one universal one. Universal costs more. In addition, the result from the use of two mixtures is much better.”

Fundamentals of wall puttying technology

- an expensive part of the construction budget. If you want to save money, do it yourself. It’s scary just before starting work, after the first wall the process will improve.

The main thing is to follow the sequence of work, clearly dividing the stages and fulfilling all the requirements.Let's look at how to properly putty walls for painting or wallpaper.

How to properly prepare and prime the walls

Foundation preparation is a critical stage of work. The result of your efforts depends on it. If the walls were wallpapered or painted, all layers decorative coating need to be removed. The wallpaper can be soaked so that it easily lags behind the wall. Particularly resistant layers should be treated with hot steam.

The paint is much more difficult to remove. You can mechanize the process using a drill with a nozzle. But cleaning must be done very carefully, otherwise then you will have to devote a lot of time to puttying. It is better to peel off the paint by hand, using sandpaper attached to a wooden block.

Important! In the process of cleaning the walls, a suspension of cement, whitewash and dust will hang in the air. Be sure to use a respirator for respiratory protection.

Oil paint can be softened with a solvent, but all such compounds have a pungent odor, you can only work in a well-ventilated area.After cleaning the wall from the decorative coating, sweep it with a brush and wipe it with a slightly damp cloth. So you remove the remaining dust and debris.

In fact, a primer is an adhesive that forms a strong film on the wall. It consists of various components: resin, lime, bitumen, alum. If you want to know if the primer is suitable for your walls, look at the recommendations for use on the packaging of the composition. There are mixtures designed for processing metal, concrete, plastic.

How to make putty with your own hands

You can cook on your own. In this case, it will cost you a little cheaper, and in terms of quality it will not be inferior to the purchased composition. The ingredients for the mixture are not difficult to find, you will need the usual gypsum powder and chalk, which is used for whitewashing. For solidification and plasticity, a solution is added to the chalk laundry soap, wood glue, drying oil and varnish. In the manufacturing process, chalk and gypsum are first mixed dry, and then the powder is poured into adhesive solution. And now a few putty recipes for different surfaces:

Aligning the walls with your own hands with “home” putty is no different from working with a factory mixture.

How to prepare a factory-made mixture

To prepare the mixture, you need to choose clean dishes and, preferably, a construction mixer. Manually kneading putty without lumps is difficult and physically difficult.

Do not try to mix the whole package at once, especially if you are new to this business. The composition dries quickly, so while you are training on small area walls, the whole batch may freeze and have to be thrown away.

For kneading, use water at room temperature. After preparing the putty, let it stand for a quarter of an hour. The consistency of the finished putty should be similar to thick sour cream. If you have prepared a polymer, acrylic or latex mixture and have not had time to fully use it, fill the container with putty with water. Next time, carefully drain the surface layer of water and use the composition.

Alignment of walls with starting putty

What does the process of starting puttying the walls with your own hands look like:

Illustration	Description of works
	Mix the mixture according to the instructions on the package of the mixture. Use a construction mixer for a quality batch.
	Scoop up a thick mixture with a spatula and apply to the spatula, distributing along the entire length.
	From the bottom up, apply putty to the surface. Fill in the section of the wall like this.
	With a wide spatula, smooth out all the seams formed from the bottom up and sideways.
	After the putty has hardened, level the surface with sandpaper.

For a beginner in this business, video material on how to putty walls with your own hands:

Video instruction: how to properly putty walls with beacons

You are lucky if the main surface is made with high quality, in compliance with the level and without major flaws. If not, you can level it or putty.For an ideal result on an uneven wall, beacons will be required. To expose them, you need to pull the thread along the wall, vertically and diagonally. The direction of the thread should be checked with a building level.

After the marks have dried, the main puttying work is carried out.

How to correctly align the walls with putty on the lighthouses, in the following video material:

How to apply finishing putty on the wall

Use as a finishing layer polymer composition- acrylic or latex.

Illustration	Description of works
	For kneading finish coat you need to carefully measure the proportions and prepare the amount of water that is recommended in the instructions.
	The mixture is poured into water, and not vice versa. It is necessary to mix the solution thoroughly until the consistency of sour cream is obtained.
	To apply the finishing layer, use a spatula with a width of 30-40 centimeters
	The first layer of the top coat should be the thinnest, it will help to reveal all existing irregularities.
	The second layer of putty is applied only a day later, after the first has completely dried.

Beginners are most often faced with the question of how to work with a spatula. Not everyone gets it right the first time. Pay attention to the video recommendation on how to apply finishing putty on the wall:

Related article:

We will talk about different compositions and appointments of solutions, methods of their preparation, necessary tools and materials, as well as the application technology itself.

How to sand the walls after puttying

No matter how hard you try, after the finishing layer of putty on the wall there will be traces of a spatula. If they are not removed, they will show through. The final step is to sand the surface. This is a laborious task, but without polishing you will never achieve the desired result.

In the previous article, we examined, and now we will learn how to properly putty the walls.

It makes no sense to describe how to hold a spatula, hold it as convenient. With pressure on the spatula, its plane bends, the edges rise, and there is more pressure in the middle. That is why the putty on the spatula is applied in a larger amount to the middle.

With a spatula, we perform two actions:

• We put putty on the walls,
• Let's level it.

The stronger you press the spatula against the wall surface, the stronger the deflection and waves in the future. Therefore, when leveling holes on the wall surface or keep the trowel blade perpendicular to the surface. Sometimes wall puttying technology allows you to press the angle of the spatula blade with your second hand, when aligning corners and edges. A large spatula can be held by the edges.

What spatulas to use

To putty the walls with our own hands, we need spatulas 600mm, 450mm, about 300mm in size and an overlay about 80-100mm in size.

We prepare the putty mixture in case of using dry putties. Or take the required amount of finished and mix thoroughly.

Remember: Fugen and Multifinish have limited time use (40-60 minutes), more Shitrok. And unused Vetonit can be closed with a lid and work can be continued even the next day!

We put putty on the spatula, along the blade, more in the middle.

We apply to the wall, spreading a layer, pressing the blade of the spatula to the plane.

Now we level, that is, we remove the excess. The blade is closer to the perpendicular angle.

We re-smear the removed, with an overlay spatula, over a bucket. And we repeat: apply, level, remove.

It is more correct if these movements are mutually perpendicular.

To avoid putty sagging, do not apply too much. Watch the angle of the spatula to the surface, the putty is many-angle greater (60-50 degrees), the putty is reduced and the angle of inclination is reduced to the wall. You don't need to press hard.

How to avoid sagging when overlapping putty layers? We begin to lead the spatula in the direction of the already putty, that is, we retreat 60 cm (for example) and apply putty (we lead the spatula) towards the already putty area. Leveling the transition. If the putty has had time to dry and rides up, you can sprinkle it from the sprayer. Especially Vetonit is responsive to such a procedure.

How to level the walls with putty

If the walls are fairly even, and it is necessary to equalize differences of 3-4 mm over a large area, then we create a plane using a plaster rule.

Apply with a spatula 450-600mm putty (Fugen or Vetonit for wallpaper) on the entire area in an approximately even layer, and level it with the rule. We hold it perpendicular to the surface of the wall and “cut off” everything superfluous. At this stage, we do not pay attention to the teases from the movement of the rule, it is important to bring out the plane.

After the first (rough) layer of putty has dried, we prime it and start puttying the walls using a 600 mm spatula, apply a continuous surface leveling layer. If done well, then the step with the rule is not necessary. We immediately work with spatulas.

In places of possible formation of cracks, we glue fiberglass or paint mesh. In the corners we use a grid and a paper bandage tape, the application was discussed in detail in the article, sheet joints.

When gluing paper bandage tape, long spatula we press it into a corner, and with a patch we level it in both directions. We wait for drying and putty first one side of the corner and only after it dries, we level the second. Pro painting fiberglass and his correct application on the entire plane of the wall, read the following articles.

After, use a 450mm spatula and apply the next continuous layer, perpendicular to the previously applied layer.

Remember: We apply and smooth the putty in two mutually perpendicular directions.

After drying, with a short spatula 300 mm putty on the “stripped” and eliminate small irregularities.

We wait for drying and grind with the help of a skin on a hinge.

We prime and apply a finishing layer of putty, filling in all remaining shells and scratches. If you putty the walls for painting, then using a 450mm spatula we apply a continuous layer of finish, then 30cm on the peel, and small 80-100mm spot corrections. We grind with a fine-grained sandpaper with a grain of 240 or more.

Sometimes visual alignment of the walls with putty is required without the use of plaster on beacons, how to do this.

First of all, we level the corners and the perimeter with putty, that is:

• Wall to ceiling connection
• vertical corners of walls
• Corners in the skirting area.

When aligning the corners, start with only one side (right), and after it dries, proceed to the adjoining (left). If the corners of the walls deviate from the desired by more than 4 mm, then they can be leveled with Rotband plaster, and after the plaster has dried, putty.

After leveling the perimeter, use a 600mm spatula and make the transition to the plane. We apply the putty on the wall, and level it by holding the spatula perpendicular to the wall (on the strip), relying on the already leveled perimeter, cut off the excess. We also act with all the pits and drops on the wall.

After that, we proceed to the stages of puttying the walls described at the beginning of this article.

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