Toilet repair is not tiled. Ideas and milestones for self-repairing a toilet. Wall coverings

The dressing room in any house or apartment must be flawlessly executed. But not everyone knows exactly how to achieve this and what points to pay attention to. Moreover, methods for one type of building are not always suitable for others.

Peculiarities

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is available to almost all amateur builders. As always, you will have to take care of a well-thought-out design concept and selection of materials. Difficulties in performing work may be associated with insufficient floor space, but thanks to the simplest actions, these limitations are overcome.

It is very important not to forget for a minute about the increased hygiene standards that are characteristic of the bathroom like no other room. Before using any recommendation you like, you need to understand whether it is justified and to what result its implementation will lead.

Options for different rooms

When you need to renovate a small toilet, the first step is naturally thinking over the concept. Moreover, if for a larger bathroom the mistakes in it can still be corrected at a certain stage of work, then here you will have to redo everything again, incurring additional costs. Before designing in "Brezhnevka" or in a small-sized apartment of an earlier period, its technical condition must be taken into account. No matter how carefully they once built, all structures can become unusable.

Any project in such apartments should be drawn up taking into account the most efficient use of the available space.

In a modern typical apartment, there is much more space for decision-making., but one thing remains unchanged: projects that require redevelopment are always worse than those that do not provide for it. It's not just about possible problems, conflicts with neighbors and with the housing inspection. Difficulties are also caused by the increased volume of work (both during dismantling and installation).

Waste disposal is a problem for the country toilet. You need to immediately decide whether it is possible to connect to the central sewage system or you will have to look for workarounds.

Capital

Having dealt with the peculiarities of a particular dwelling, you need to find out how much the bathroom will be subjected to global alteration. Only major repairs will help if it is decided to merge its parts together, or vice versa, to make two separate ones from one room. The cost of a high-quality overhaul is quite high, as is its duration, and only trained installers can do many work.

In new houses or after a recently made overhaul, there is no need to carry out it again. A more modest option can be considered with limited funds.

Economical

Cheap toilet redecoration will not touch pipes, walls, or meters.

This category quite fall into:

• installation and replacement of mirrors;
• replacement of faulty valves;
• installation of suspended or suspended ceilings.

When changing the toilet, this is also a budget type of repair (or part of it). But “easy, fast and cheap” does not mean less responsible. Every year, there are hundreds of cases of poor-quality cosmetic repairs in toilets, errors in which end in a flood of neighbors or serious household inconveniences. Therefore, the choice of components, decorative elements, tools, the hiring of a team must be approached carefully.

It is unacceptable to economize on any of these components, but careful market research will allow you not to overpay for quality.

Renovation

A beautiful and pleasant-looking toilet is a cherished dream of many people. The European-style renovation helps to bring it to life and support it in the future. It is distinguished from the usual overhaul by the presence of a specially prepared project for decorating the room. Quite often they even prepare 3D rendering using special software.

Almost always, when renovating, the infrastructure and appearance of the finish are totally changed., realize creative delights and follow the latest fashion trends. Another feature is that it is advisable to do the renovation in the whole apartment at once, and not in one toilet in isolation.

Required materials and tools

It is unlikely that it will be possible to repair the toilet properly without tools. You can dismantle old accessories using a set of screwdrivers, but this is very laborious and time-consuming. It would be much better to take a screwdriver and a set of bits for it. Concrete skirting boards are dismantled with a perforator, which also makes it easier to remove tiles and prepare holes. When working with a pipe and a toilet, the master must have a gas wrench ready.

It is impossible to install new pipes, both metal and plastic, without using a welding machine.

To prepare for the application of finishing materials will help:

• roulette;
• folding meter;
• construction level;
• plumb line.

Primer, coating, putty, paint is applied with brushes and rollers. But for working with tile glue, it is advisable to take a notched trowel. A saw, a hammer, a chisel, a chisel, a file and other locksmiths, carpentry tools are also needed for standard repairs, including in other rooms. Therefore, spending on their purchase is fully justified.

For walls

Tile is deservedly considered a universal solution for decorating the walls of the toilet. But you cannot take tiles made from ordinary silicates (which have a white seamy side). Despite being chemically neutral, the large number of microscopic pores enhances fluid intake and retention of unpleasant odors. Fighting them with household deodorants is very expensive and bad for your health.

Wallpaper is considered an alternative to tiles. It is recommended to glue those types of them that can be cleaned and washed into the toilet. With the right creativity and diligence, it will be possible to achieve a look no worse than using tiles. The problem is that even the best types of wallpaper don't last long enough. But the costs are much less, and therefore frequent replacement will not affect the wallet.

As in the previous case, be sure to prepare the surface for work.

For ceiling

The standard procedure is to completely remove the old coating. But what to do next depends on the type of finish chosen. So, stretch and suspended ceilings are mounted on a simple cleaned base. If decorative plaster is used, the coatings are knocked down to the rough floor and the substrate is prepared as carefully as possible. The features of the lighting fixtures are also taken into account.

The specificity of the use of toilets and their "filling" imposes certain requirements on the materials that can be used for finishing ceilings.

First of all, these include:

• Condensation resistance.
• Tightness. When a breakthrough occurs from above, it is almost always this material that takes the first blow.
• Mechanical strength. It is not enough for the ceiling to be simply waterproof, it must also withstand the pressure of the mass of water.
• Easy access to communications hidden behind the ceiling trim.
• Elegant appearance, but without unnecessary pretentiousness and pomp.

An overly bright finish can create inappropriate associations. Absorption of height is unacceptable, on the contrary, the color is selected in such a way as to guarantee a visual expansion of the space. Whitewashing is considered the easiest way to satisfy most of the listed requirements. It is applied in about 60 minutes, but this time is usually less. But you have to take into account that whitewashed ceilings are unstable to moisture, and the only excuse is the ease of restoration of the finish.

Paint is a good alternative., especially since it is much more diverse in appearance and texture. It is recommended to use waterproof solutions - oil, silicone, latex or acrylic. Some of the water-based mixtures can also be used, but here you already need to make a careful choice.

A fairly large part of consumers prefer various types of tiles, which are able not only to create a pleasant appearance, but also to compensate for minor differences in height. At the same time, the toilet does not become lower, but you will need to carefully select the color of the material and the size of the individual blocks.

False ceilings will also cover all the problems of the rough base, but they will absorb at least 3 cm in height, which is why, with all the difficulties with gluing the tiles, it is better suited for small toilets.

There are much more possibilities when using slatted ceilings that are impervious to moisture and are fire safe. Lighting and wires can be easily removed inside the rails or panels, they will not spoil the appearance.

In order for the ceiling to look advantageous, like the entire room as a whole, you need to carefully select the lamps. Not every light source is suitable for all ceilings. So, for obvious reasons, highly heating structures are incompatible with suspended and tensioned canvases. The more compact the lamp is, the more tightly it is pressed against the plane of the top, the more advantageous the design will be. An equally important requirement is a housing protected from moisture: in this case, we are talking about the fire and electrical safety of residents.

Spot elements provide excellent diffused light, but it is still better to put them not on the ceiling, but as accents and additional illumination of individual elements. Copper wires are best for connecting all lighting fixtures. Aluminum conducts current worse, oxidizes more actively in case of contact with air, breaks faster and easier, it is much more difficult to mount wires from it. The strobes should be sealed with a moisture-resistant filler.

Incandescent lamps should be abandoned: they consume a lot of current, and at the same time they heat up the air more than illuminate the space.

Flooring

In the toilets of a private house or apartment, the design role of the floor is no less than that of the ceiling or walls. In the same way, when preparing for its finishing, it is required to think over everything thoroughly and take into account the subtleties. Tiles made of natural stone and tiles have become widespread in the decoration of toilet floors.

Their advantages are undeniable:

• strength;
• minimal water absorption;
• abrasion resistance;
• the ability to choose a floor covering as part of a single collection (from which there will also be material for wall decoration).

If a variety of colors is in the foreground, it is worth choosing a tile, and porcelain stoneware turns out to be the undisputed leader in hardness. All types of "stone" coatings easily tolerate the action of aggressive reagents, including household appliances. A serious disadvantage of the stone is its coldness; underfloor heating corrects the problem, but it complicates the structure, makes the work longer and more expensive. The tiles that are laid on the floor must be of 3 strength classes and higher.

Among other varieties, materials with corundum coatings and layers that reduce slip are deservedly in the first place.

Wooden base is impractical for a toilet floor- with external aesthetics on store shelves or photographs, it will quickly swell and swell, it may rot. Moreover, even thick boards are not devoid of such shortcomings, unless they appear later. No paint and enamel will save, since they are applied only to the outside, and the rest of the planes will remain uncovered by protection. Therefore, the use of linoleum turns out to be more profitable than wood. Technologists have learned to give it a colossal external variety, which was difficult to imagine 10 years ago.

Water-resistant linoleum rolls fit well in narrow places requiring curly styling. The appearance of rot, mold fungi and microorganisms is almost impossible, it is very simple to clean the floor from dirt and moisture. But the complete tightness of the coating cannot be achieved, so it will need to be lifted from time to time, and the base must be dried and treated with disinfectants.

In terms of durability, there is no need to install semi-commercial linoleum in the toilet. Enough and the simplest everyday, even the most delicate, if only it does not slip.

Sequence of work

It makes no difference whether a construction ace or a newbie in this area has to carry out a major overhaul. The first step is always to design a high-quality future renovation. The area of ​​the room is thoroughly measured, since it depends on it which ideas can be realized, and which ones will remain fruitless fantasies.

Most often, especially in urban apartments of old houses, there is absolutely not enough space. In such a situation, you need to abandon the original moves and begin to deal with the tightness.

Where to begin?

Before starting the design, you should decide on the choice of equipment to be installed. In case of an acute shortage of space, they are limited to a toilet. When the washroom is relatively free, you can put a washbasin, urinal or bidet in it. A minimum of 0.4 m is left between the middle of the toilet bowl and the wall, and when the sink is placed, this distance decreases to 0.3 m. Hanging toilets do not absorb the floor space, but due to the obligatory frame, 10 cm or a little more will be taken away from the wall. In addition, the complexity of installation will require the involvement of professionals and their remuneration.

Having dealt with the "stuffing" of the toilet, it's time to think about its tone. It is better to choose between calm tones, the slightest variegation is unacceptable. Even with such a restriction, there are many quite attractive options, especially since no one forbids making local color accents. After choosing a color, you can find out the need for tools. The list of them changes depending on the planned materials.

The next step is to eliminate the old plumbing and finishing materials., all unnecessary components in general. There is no particular difficulty in this, but a lot of effort and time will have to be spent. The toilet bowls of the newer versions are removed by removing the corrugation, while the older closets are fixed on a cement base. It will need to be broken. Removing the tiles is complicated by the fact that even with the wear of the outer layer, they are extremely stable.

Since work, regardless of the choice of hand or power tools, will create a lot of noise and dust, you need to prepare. The optimal period is weekday daytime hours. At the same time, all furniture in the reach zone is covered with plastic wrap. Wallpaper is usually soaked and removed mechanically. Strong paint is not removed, with the exception of oil; for any paint and varnish material, special washes are used. The whitewash is removed with a spatula after abundant saturation with water.

Main works

Continuing to carry out the overhaul of the toilet step by step, they are taken for the creation of improved communications. In many houses, old risers are unreliable, then they need to be replaced with new ones made of PVC. In most cases, the entire segment changes from floor to ceiling. The connections are supplied with adapters, and the modular design can be easily supplemented with parts of the required format. Pipes inside the toilet room are most often inserted into grooves; if the bidet (either stand-alone or integrated in the toilet) is not used, replacement can usually be dispensed with.

The wiring is hidden in the grooves, and the sewer pipes are in a specially designated box. If it is decided to repair the walls using plasterboard sheets, the perimeter of the rough walls is covered with a profile attached to dowels with a diameter of 6 mm. When fixing the frame, the main profiles are used, and stiffeners are also used, spaced in increments of 0.4-0.5 m. After that, it is required to fix the moisture-resistant gypsum board, previously cut into fragments of the required diameter. Fixation is done using special screws.

When preparing the sheets, you need to make an opening in them for the subsequent installation of the inspection door, then it will be possible to monitor the state of technology and the numbers on the meter display. Then you need to make the flooring. Ceramic tiles are cut in narrow places, and therefore their costs are usually higher than estimated by area. The base is well worked with a deeply penetrating primer. The outer surface is leveled with self-leveling.

Then they create a self-leveling floor, and the choice of a colored or transparent composition depends purely on personal preferences. On a transparent surface, you need to lay an image that becomes three-dimensional after filling. Accelerated leveling is achieved using a needle roller. When the mixture is dry, it will be strong.

Since the vapors released during solidification of self-leveling floors are harmful to health, it is advisable to work in a respirator.

When the floor is ready, it is the turn to work with the walls. They must be primed under the tiles; for pronounced irregularities, a cement putty is applied. Plasterboard boxes do not finish under the tiles, with the exception of double priming and sealing each seam. A rail or levels are mounted along the entire perimeter at the height of the first tile. This will allow you to finish the room as accurately and quickly as possible.

The masonry goes in rows until the desired height is reached; placing crosses relies on the joints both vertically and horizontally. When the day has passed, the rail is removed and the lower tiles are laid. If those do not fit, you can trim problematic items. So, without unnecessary difficulties, decorating the walls with your own hands is no worse than with the help of a team of finishers. Grouting is done in a standard way.

The situation is different when using plastic panels. A frame is formed along the walls from metal or wooden profiles. The gap from one column to another is a maximum of 50 cm. The frame must run at right angles to the movement of the panels. It is not difficult to put the blocks themselves: you need to put the first part into the starting profiles or corners; attach all structures with self-tapping screws through the extreme protrusions.

Then the corners will need to be closed with special elements: they are either fixed before the panels, or glued on the outside on liquid nails. If wallpaper is selected, the entire surface is cleaned of dirt and dust particles, and it is thoroughly primed. Then the walls are plastered using "Vetonit" for wet rooms. Applying it once or twice depends on how much the walls are deformed. In especially difficult situations, they are impregnated with a primer even three times.

The surfaces dried after priming are leveled with a float and emery paper. You need to move them in a circle. If residual defects are found, they are additionally putty and rubbed. After cleaning the walls from dust, they need to be primed again. That's all, this completes the preparation for pasting the wallpaper.

Having overcome all the difficulties in decorating the walls, they take up the ceiling. If it is mounted, you need to draw a line along the perimeter with a level to expose the structure. The guide profiles are attached to the walls, for this purpose you will need the holes for the quick-fit dowels. The step between the main profiles is 0.4 m, the line of their passage serves for attaching suspensions. Having prepared the frame, you need to attach a selected material to it (necessarily combined with the wall decoration by color).

The next step is the placement of plumbing and other equipment. Important: installations for suspended toilets should be done prior to wall cladding. In the case of traditional plumbing, the corrugation is attached to the sewer inlet pipes and connected to the toilet. Then it is put in the required position, since the flexible hose is easy to move as you like. The tank should not rest against the wall, even at a single point.

The marking of the sole of the toilet bowl on the floor is carried out together with the drilling point. At this point, concrete drills are used, and they go through the tiles with a special drill for ceramics. Dowels are placed in the drilled holes, then the toilet is exposed and pressed against the base on the hex screws. For your information: rubber washers should be placed under the screws, they will prevent thin plumbing from breaking. The hats of the fasteners are covered with decorative plugs.

Only after all these works does it become possible to connect the water and seal the joint of the toilet bowl with a silicone-based compound. If a sink is also installed in the toilet, the choice is reduced to fixing it on the brackets from the kit or on dowels screwed into the wall. Usually they are guided by the directions of the instructions. Only after fastening can the water supply and drainage channel be connected. But the overhaul of the toilet does not stop there either.

How to finish?

Next, proceed to the installation of doors. The position of the box is verified as accurately as possible from all sides. When using a heavy canvas, the box is screwed with dowels. You should not be afraid of their poor appearance - you just need to position the fasteners in the area of ​​the hinges and below the latch groove. For your information: experienced craftsmen check the level after each manipulation in order to avoid the slightest shift. When the installation of the canvas is finished, you need to apply polyurethane foam, filling the entire gap around the perimeter.

When removing the foam from the cylinder, they move it in a zigzag fashion, trying to keep the box in a certain position. Do not put in excess foam, because it will inevitably expand and go beyond the contour. Cut off the foam from the outside after ½ day, while you need to be careful and leave everything inside. Excessively thin boxes are complemented by additional details. If there are grooves, you need to cut the strips to the required size and snap into place; simple boards are planted on foam or fixed with self-tapping screws.

No matter how diligently the doors themselves are mounted, if their choice was unsuccessful, the problems will grow like a snowball. Glass structures, in whole or in part, look elegant and become a winning design element. Do not be afraid of peeping from the outside, because you can order a version with tinted or frosted glass. If there are small children, elderly people or seriously ill people in the house, such doors to the bathroom will allow you to control the silhouette through the glass and come to the rescue in time. At the same time, glass doors are environmentally friendly and convenient, they well dampen extraneous noise. There are many interesting models in the assortment of any manufacturer.

In terms of hygiene and convenience, PVC doors are no worse than glass doors, moreover, they are usually lighter than wood. This allows you to refuse from powerful hinges and heavy boxes, from strengthening the walls. Even with minimal maintenance, the special film will last for many years.

Wooden doors can only be installed if the bathroom is equipped with strong exhaust ventilation. If it is not there, then even the most moisture-resistant rocks will damp and deteriorate in a short time.

Successful examples

You can figure out for a long time exactly how it is better to arrange a toilet in an apartment or house, consult with experts and friends. But it is most likely to have before your eyes the most interesting samples and ideas that you can focus on.

Then it will turn out to transform an ordinary toilet into a truly unusual and original space.

• This is how you can make a fairly large toilet room with an area of ​​10-12 square meters. m. There is a sink near the door, and a toilet bowl is fixed in the center of the wall opposite to the entrance. The squares of rich red tiles seem to form a continuous strip, stylistically connecting the floor and the wall. An exquisite dark door with a vertical window on the left completes and completes the composition.
• The modern approach to the design of toilets can be different, but therefore no less original. The familiar "white throne" is the only item of this color chosen by the designers. The walls and floor are decorated with natural stone of different colors. Almost everywhere it is smooth and even, but on the left above the cupboard with cupboards, the wall is made with a pronounced relief. And in the part farthest from the entrance, the stone background is suddenly replaced by a gorgeous green panel, reflected by an oval mirror suspended on another wall.

• And this composition clearly contains references to the plots of computer games twenty years ago. An abstract figure in the form of yellow raster cells on an impeccably black wall seems to hint at this. Looking just below, you can see a painted gray wheel, and to the right of it - a flower and cologne, standing on a stand. The picture on the cistern is funny and even somehow childish in spirit. A wooden door made of slightly brown planks, a brick wall going at an angle, plus an emphasized antique lighting solution, make the design quite original.
• Here all the design is created on the game of white and red colors. On the side walls, they are present in their pure form, and the wall farthest from the entrance is made in Scottish motives. The floor is painted in the same way.

• Similar paints have been chosen here, but you can immediately see how different designers have worked on the project. It seems to be a small detail - a sparkling metal plate that allows you to make a very powerful accent. A suspended wall-mounted sink looks timidly out of a niche.
• It is not necessary to combine white and red tones, combinations with blue look good too. Squares on the floor and rectangles on the walls make for a pretty eye-catching look. The toilet and sink are positioned in such a way as to save space as much as possible. One of the walls is decorated with a blue floral pattern against a calm white background. Numerous spotlights, guessed by the reflections, provide a comfortable environment for people.

Each owner of his own home tries to create all the conditions for a comfortable stay in it. In fact, it is easy to do it, you just need to show your imagination, and your home will sparkle with new colors. Repair is always a big financial cost and a lot of problems, so most people are reluctant to start it. At the same time, many nuances should be taken into account so that the interior design is not only beautiful, but also practical. This is especially true for the toilet and bathroom, since both of these rooms are associated with high humidity and temperature. This is where many questions arise. What materials and plumbing equipment to choose? What is the style of the room? How can you save money without sacrificing quality? Let's look at all this in more detail and find out where to start repairing the toilet with our own hands. This article will be especially useful for people who have no experience in construction and finishing work. After reading it to the end, you will learn how to quickly and easily transform your bathroom beyond recognition.

Where to begin?

If you do not want to order a turnkey toilet repair, but plan to cope with everything on your own, then it is very important to have at least some idea of ​​where to start. Many people think that the first step is to purchase building materials and plumbing, however, as practice shows, later they face many problems that entail unnecessary financial costs. To avoid most of the mistakes of beginners, it is recommended to pre-prepare the premises for the upcoming renovation. This implies not just taking out everything unnecessary from the room, namely the preparation of all work surfaces - walls, floor and ceiling for further work. This will be discussed in more detail below.

Room preparation

Let's dwell on this in more detail. So where to start renovating your toilet and bathroom? First of all, you need to understand that in the vast majority of apartments, the toilet has a very small area. As a rule, it is equal to 1.2 x 0.85 meters. Such dimensions greatly limit the possibilities, so you need to immediately decide on the interior design project.

In this case, everything happens in the following sequence:

1. We disconnect the toilet from the communications, unscrew the fixing bolts and take it out.
2. We assess the condition of the pipes. If it is deplorable, then we also carry out their dismantling.
3. Most often, the walls in the toilet are tiled, so we remove it, and then we clean the work surface with a puncher and a special nozzle.
4. If you want to make high-quality repairs, then it is recommended to immediately start replacing the wiring. We remove the electrical cable from the strobes and cut it off.

It is worth noting that in some apartments the toilet is combined with a bathroom, so there is constantly increased dampness in them, which creates ideal conditions for the growth of fungus and mold. To prevent this, you need to treat the walls with special antiseptic agents.

We have described the preparatory stage in detail, so now you can consider the further sequence of repairs in the toilet. Floor, walls, ceiling require an individual approach, so below we will dwell on each of them in more detail.

Laying of communications

What is it like? Where to start repairs in the toilet of a new building when reconstruction is not needed, but only bringing the premises back to normal is required? In this case, you will not need to prepare anything in advance, since the work surface is already suitable for finishing.

The first step is to bring the water supply and sewer drain to the installation site of the toilet, as well as electrical wiring. Without this, the bathroom simply cannot function. If you live in a panel house, which are most often erected today, then there will already be risers for hot and cold water in the restroom. To minimize physical and financial costs, this is where it is best to lay the distribution node. To give the room a more aesthetic and attractive appearance, all pipes are hidden in a special box.

If you do not know where to start repairing the toilet, then just stick to the following sequence:

1. The first step is to install the toilet and connect it to the drain pipe. For this, a corrugated plastic pipe is usually used, laid at a slight angle.
2. Further, the riser is connected directly to the sewer drain using the same pipe, which is connected at a slope of about two centimeters per linear meter. Clamps are used for fixing.
3. A tee is cut into the riser, which is responsible for supplying cold water, through which water is supplied to the drain tank. If you want the bathroom to have a sink for washing your hands, then immediately make separate taps for hot and cold water. It is best to use hidden montage so that they are not visible.
4. If the water for the bathroom will be heated using a water heater that is in the toilet, then immediately make the piping to connect it.
5. Wiring must be routed exclusively in grooves. In this case, the cable is placed in a special corrugated box, which excludes the possibility of mechanical damage and short circuit.
6. The uprights are hidden in special boxes, the frame of which can be made of a wooden bar soaked in an antiseptic solution, or a metal profile. Then it is sheathed at the final stage of the repair with finishing material, for example, clapboard.

That, in fact, is all in the toilet, which is at the initial stage. Further work will be described in detail and tips are given that will help you to cope with everything much easier.

Room decoration

So, you already know where to start repairs in the toilet, bathroom, so now you can talk directly about finishing. At the same time, it is important to understand that working with walls, floors and ceilings has certain features that must be taken into account. This will be discussed in more detail below.

Ceiling decoration

Where should you start it? It is better to start redecorating the toilet room (photos of some interior design projects are simply breathtaking) from the ceiling, since this way you will not damage the wall decoration and then you will not have to think about how to mask the defects. Some repairmen may disagree with this, however, as practice shows, this approach is more appropriate.

The sequence of repairs in the toilet when finishing the ceiling is as follows:

1. A straight line is drawn along the perimeter of the working surface at a distance of approximately 5-7 centimeters from the overlap. The exact indentation is determined depending on what types of lighting fixtures you will be using.
2. According to the markings, a galvanized or wooden profile is fixed on the walls.
3. Metal guides are attached to the ceiling using special hangers and dowels.
4. When the frame is completed, the electrical wiring is supplied to the place of the proposed location of the fixtures.
5. A ceiling plinth with special grooves for installing plastic panels is fixed on the profile.

When planning the repair of the bath and toilet, it is recommended to decide on the materials in advance. Which one to use depends solely on your preferences and financial capabilities. The best option in terms of cost and practicality is lining. It is cut to size and simply inserted into the installed ceiling cornice. They also cut holes for lighting fixtures, which are connected at the very end.

Wall decoration

So where should you start? Many people do not want to order turnkey repairs, because very often the craftsmen do not pay enough attention to the walls. It so happens that the work is handed over, and later unevenness of the working surfaces and other defects are discovered, which greatly spoil the overall impression. But you do not need to hire anyone, because if you can handle the ceiling, then the walls will not create any special problems for you.

It is best to use tiles as a finishing material. Firstly, it has excellent performance and durability, and secondly, it is very easy and simple to care for it, and thirdly, since the area of ​​the restrooms in many apartments is small, you will not need a large amount of material, and therefore, repairs are not will require significant financial costs.

So, the materials have been purchased, you can continue to repair the toilet. The sequence of work when decorating walls is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Carefully inspect the work surface and check with a building level how smooth they are. If there are even small curvatures, then you need to align them to increase the tightness of the tile. The margin of error is 5 millimeters per square meter.
2. If alignment is necessary, then first you need to remove any protrusions with a puncher or grind them. This is a mandatory step, because if during the operation of the bathroom, the finishing materials begin to be plastered, then you will not get around this problem.
3. Before gluing the tiles, the walls are treated with an antiseptic primer. It will prevent mold and mildew from growing, so your toilet will always be clean and tidy.
4. The frame of the box, in which the pipes will be hidden, is sheathed with plasterboard, which has increased resistance to moisture.
5. To improve the adhesion quality, the tiles should be placed in water for about a few hours before working with them.
6. Glue is being prepared. To do this, you just need to dilute the dry mixture in water in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer on the label. It is very important to stir everything well so that it is homogeneous and free of lumps.

So, the above instruction answers in detail the question of where to start repairing the toilet. When all preparations are complete, you can start cladding.

It is performed according to the following scheme:

1. Markings are applied to the working surface under the level. It is important to take into account that the thicker the tile is, the wider the seam needs to be made.
2. The adhesive is evenly applied to the wall with a spatula. It is very important to distribute it so that it is the same thickness over the entire area. Do not try to cover a large area at once, as it dries quickly. Do everything slowly and little by little.
3. Based on the markings applied earlier, a tile is applied to the wall and pressed firmly. Excess glue should be removed immediately.
4. Plastic spacers must be installed between the tiles. This will keep the seams at the same thickness everywhere. The gluing is carried out in rows from the floor to the ceiling. If you want to give the room a more original appearance, then each next row should be applied with an offset of half the width. In this case, it is recommended to check the accuracy of laying using a building level and, if necessary, correct the position of the tile.

That, in fact, is all, now you know where to start repairing the toilet in the apartment, as well as in what sequence all the work is performed. After the wall cladding is completed, the room is closed and left for at least 12 hours so that the glue is completely dry, and then the seams are rubbed with a special putty. It not only improves the attractiveness of the walls, but also prevents the penetration of water under the tiles, thus extending its life. At the very end, all that remains is to thoroughly wash the walls, after which they will shine with their beauty.

Floor finishing

So, the beginning of the repair of the toilet has already been made, but for its complete completion, the flooring still needs to be laid. Here, as in the case of other parts of the premises, it is very important to assess its condition. As practice shows, waterproofing very often deteriorates, so it needs to be replaced.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The base is completely cleaned of any debris and dust, after which it is treated with a deep penetration primer.
2. Next, a special polymer mastic is applied, best made on the basis of bitumen, which will act as a waterproofing. Thanks to this, the likelihood of flooding neighbors living on the floor below you will be almost completely excluded. The layer thickness must be at least 150 millimeters.
3. After waterproofing, a concrete screed 50 mm thick is poured. It is best to use fast-setting mixtures for this. Of course, they are more expensive than ordinary ones, but their quality is much higher, and you will also save a lot of time.
4. After the screed has dried, as a rule, it takes 3-4 days, the working surface is primed.
5. For cladding, it is better to use floor tiles. It has greater strength and durability, so it will be much more difficult to damage it, and it is also not as slippery when exposed to water. If you settle for a wall tile, be prepared to replace it just a few years after the renovation.
6. The process of gluing tiles is the same as in the case of walls. First, an adhesive mixture is applied to the floor, after which the tiles are laid in rows. When it is dry, grouting is done. Tiles can be laid either in rows or with an offset.

That is, in fact, the whole process of work. Now you have a detailed idea of ​​where to start a toilet renovation and how to bring it to the very end. Now you just have to equip the bathroom, and you can start using it.

Plumbing installation

This article covered the step-by-step repair of the toilet. If you strictly adhere to the instructions described in it, then you will certainly succeed in doing everything at a high level. However, this is not the end, since the plumbing equipment still needs to be installed and connected, and this is also a very time-consuming process.

It is performed according to the following algorithm:

1. The toilet is installed in the space provided for it. At the same time, so that it does not fidget on the tile, it is recommended to put it on a special rubber lining.
2. Mark the holes for the fixing bolts and drill them.
3. We install the plumbing and fasten it with anchors, after which we connect it to the drain using a corrugated pipe.
4. Next, we screw the cistern to the toilet. The kit contains all the necessary fasteners, so you don't have to buy anything extra.
5. We connect the equipment to the water supply system.
6. If you were planning to install a sink in the restroom and have supplied hot and cold water for this purpose in advance, then there should not be any special problems with this. The sink is simply mounted on the wall and fixed with anchor bolts. In this case, it is recommended to use an additional bracket, which will give the sink more stability.
7. We connect it to the sewer through a siphon and install taps for hot and cold water.

When all the installation of plumbing equipment is completed, it is recommended to check the quality of all connections so that there are no leaks anywhere. After that, you can start to build the fixtures into the ceiling and start using the bathroom. That, in fact, is all turnkey repairs, which you can handle on your own without the involvement of professional builders.

The price of the issue

If you have read this far, then you are no longer worried about the question of starting the toilet repair. However, it remains to tell in detail about how much it will cost to decorate the interior of the room in the restroom. It should be noted right away that by doing everything with your own hands, you save a decent amount of money, but you still have to spend money, since building and finishing materials are quite expensive these days.

To get accurate figures, it is best to personally go to the store and make all the calculations yourself, since prices can vary greatly depending on the region. In addition, 30 percent should be added to the resulting estimates, which will go to cover rejections and possible additional costs. By the way, if you have been planning to renovate the bathroom for a long time, but did not know where to start repairing the toilet, then it is better to immediately decide on how much money is required for this and whether you can afford it.

The table below will make this task a little easier for you.

In addition to all of the above, you will also need to purchase new plumbing fixtures. It is very difficult to orientate with the prices for it, since everything here depends on the individual preferences of each person. You can purchase both a budget option and elite plumbing fixtures from world famous brands. When choosing a toilet bowl and sink, you should start from your real financial capabilities. If you used inexpensive tiles to cover the room, then there is simply no point in a European toilet. It is better to do everything in unison so that everything in the interior is in good harmony with each other.

Conclusion

Here, in fact, our article, dedicated to answering the question of how to start making repairs in the toilet, has come to its conclusion. All the information provided in it is supported by practical experience, so if you strictly follow all the advice and recommendations, you will be able to cope with everything, and the quality of the repair will be in no way inferior to that performed by qualified specialists.

As for the style of dressing, it all depends on your imagination. There are quite a few unique ideas, the implementation of which will not require large financial costs. For example, a modern style that is distinguished by minimalism can be an excellent option. Despite his inherent austerity, he looks very attractive and at ease.

Do not be afraid to experiment with the design of your own apartment. After all, only you know all your preferences, with the help of which you can create all the necessary conditions for the most comfortable living. Due to the fact that today the market is rich in various building materials, you can equip your home in a modern and stylish way.

As paradoxical as it may sound, repairs in the smallest room of an apartment - a bathroom - can cost more than finishing a huge room. This is largely due to the relatively high price of quality plumbing. And the work of master tilers is not cheap. You can significantly reduce costs by making a do-it-yourself toilet repair. Of course, in this case, the already long process will drag on even more, but the final amount in the estimate will greatly decrease.

Preparatory work

Where to begin? First of all, you need to remove old plumbing and finishing materials. For this we need some tool:

• Several screwdrivers of different sizes and cross-sections;
• Screwdriver;
• Gas key # 3 or # 2;
• Perforator;

You can get to work. First, we dismantle and take out the old plumbing fixtures - a washbasin, a bathtub, a toilet bowl. If a washing machine is installed in the bathroom, we start with it.

Important! When planning to live in an apartment during the renovation, take into account the fact that you can still somehow manage without a bath and a washbasin, but nothing without a toilet. Try to dismantle it last. After replacing the pipes, it can be put back, but not fixed.

Dismantling the washbasin

Whatever the design of the washbasin you have, the principle of its dismantling is the same:

• Shut off cold and hot water;
• Open the faucet valves and let the water drain;
• Disconnect flexible hoses using an adjustable or gas wrench;

Important! When disconnecting the flexible hoses, be aware that water may remain in them. Take care of where it will drain.

• Unscrew the fixing nuts of the mixer and remove it;
• Place a container under the siphon to collect water and unscrew the siphon glass. Drain the water and replace the glass;
• To disconnect from the sewage system, unscrew the nut under the bottom of the sink, while holding the siphon glass;
• Unscrew the nut at the top of the siphon and disconnect the drain pipe;
• Remove the wedge washer and nuts from both sides of the pipe and remove it;
• If the connection of the siphon to the sewer is cemented, arm yourself with a chisel and hammer. With the chisel at right angles to the pipe, beat off and remove the mortar;
• Remove the siphon from the sewer hole and close it with a special cover. If there is no cover or the hole is non-standard, we plug it with a rag so as not to block the water drain.

Now we remove the sink. We simply take the "Moidodyr" out of the room, and unscrew the sink with bolts, holding it so that it does not fall.

Dismantling the bathtub

Given the size of this piece of plumbing, you will have to tinker a little longer than with a washbasin:

• Disconnect and drain the water;
• Unscrew the siphon nut and remove the drain grate;

Important! If the bathtub is very old and the nut "boils", you will have to break the drain grate. The easiest way to do this is from the inside of the tub using a hammer and a small chisel. We beat off the funnel segment and bend the remaining part so that it passes through the drain hole of the bath.

• Disconnect the overflow;
• We take out the branch pipe from the sewer pipe;
• Now it remains to disconnect the grounding strip and you can take out the bath.

Dismantling the toilet

If you do not plan to use this plumbing item during the renovation, you can remove it completely. If there is a need for it, postpone the dismantling until the pipes are replaced.

So let's get started. As in previous cases, we shut off the water and drain the remains from the tank:

• We unscrew the supply hose on the water supply;
• Remove the cistern from the toilet by first unscrewing the nuts under the shelf. If you had a hanging cistern, simply disconnect the pipe from the toilet and remove the cistern from the mountings;
• Removing the toilet seat fixings: unscrew the dowels or screw the nuts off the studs;
• We take out the rubber bell from the sewer pipe, after placing a container for drains under the place of the connector. If the toilet is installed on cement mortar, we again take up the hammer and chisel;
• We close the sewer hole with a lid or rag;

Drain the toilet and you're done.

Cleaning walls and floors

Of course, before making repairs in the toilet, you must decide on the type of wall and floor covering. The combined bathroom is recommended to be finished with ceramic tiles, and the separate toilet can be pasted over with washable wallpaper or sheathed with plastic. The clapboard also looks great in this room.

Before laying ceramic tiles, walls and floors must be cleaned of old finishing materials. It all depends on what they were covered with.

If it is a ceramic tile, knock it down. The easiest way to do this is as shown in the video.

If the walls were covered with wallpaper, remove them and check the strength of the walls. In places where the plaster has moved away a little, you need to beat it off completely. If the plaster layer is sufficiently strong and even, it can be left.

Important! Quite often, in old houses, the plaster is applied unevenly to the walls. In this case, it is best to delete it. Otherwise, by leveling the walls, you will significantly reduce the already small area of ​​the toilet.

The whitewash needs to be washed off. If the layer is thick, use a spatula. Dampen the surface with lukewarm water using a rag or spray, and then remove all layer of whitewash.

Walls painted with oil paint should be especially cleaned. Remaining paint can significantly reduce adhesion. This can be done using a special tool or manually. These videos will guide you through both methods.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair - video of the process of preparing the walls.

We clean the walls from paint by hand.

In recent years, paint corrosive chemicals have appeared on the market. Although the reviews about them are contradictory - from enthusiastic to sharply negative - you can try.

Installation works and finishing

Waterproofing

If the toilet is combined with a bathroom, good waterproofing is necessary. And in a separate toilet, where, as a rule, the central risers of the water supply and sewerage system pass, it will not interfere.

There are several types of waterproofing materials. The most popular of them are coating and gluing. The former are produced in the form of a mastic and are applied to the surface with a brush or roller, and the latter are a self-adhesive film. The use of the latter requires careful preparation of the walls. So, the surface difference should not be more than 2mm. Lubricating waterproofing can be applied to unprepared walls. The main thing is that they are clean.

In a combined bathroom, it is recommended to insulate the entire surface of the walls and floor. Sometimes, in order to save money, only the areas around the bathtub, shower stall and washbasin are protected. This approach only makes sense in large enough rooms. In small bathrooms, the material savings are so insignificant that it is not worthwhile to “fence in the garden” - it is easier to isolate the entire surface.

In a separate room of the toilet, you can do only with waterproofing the floor:

• Vacuum the surface;
• Prime it;
• If there is a crack between the wall and the floor, it must be covered with cement mortar or tile glue;
• The corners and joints between the plates (if any) are glued with a special sealing tape;

Waterproofing material, regardless of the type, must be applied not only to the floor, but also to the lower part of the wall - about 20 cm.

Replacing pipes

Most often, in the process of repairing a toilet, the replacement of water and sewer pipes is also carried out. In most apartments, the central risers run through this room. If the pipes in your house are old, try to negotiate with the neighbors above and below and replace them. If you can't even replace the entire riser, change the length of pipe that goes through your apartment. In this case, the junction must be in the apartment where the old pipes remain.

Of course, the internal wiring of the water supply and sewerage system should also be replaced. Pipes made of polymer materials that have appeared on the construction market in recent years can be hidden in walls.

To do this, it is enough to make a strobe in the wall, lay pipes and close the strobe with mortar. It should be noted that if a riser passes through the toilet, there is no point in hiding the rest of the pipes in the walls - the riser will still not work. It is much easier to close all pipes with a box.

"Hiding" pipes

Agree, even modern pipes crossing the room from floor to ceiling will not add aesthetics to it. So, they need to be hidden. This can be done using a drywall or plastic box with a window for access to the pipes.

To ensure free access to the pipes, roller shutters are sometimes used as a screen. This method will allow not only to hide the pipes, but also to arrange several shelves for household items.

By entering into any search engine the query "bathroom toilet renovation photo", you can easily find dozens of options for similar designs.

Wall alignment

In order to make the perfect toilet repair with your own hands (everyone can choose a photo of the ideal for themselves on the Internet or in numerous thematic magazines), it is necessary to carefully align all surfaces. Let's start with the walls. First of all, using a level, a plumb line and a corner, we measure the curvature of the walls. If it is insignificant, and you have chosen a tile as a finishing material, it is enough to arm yourself with a spatula and tile glue. In this case, the leveling process is very similar to the putty process.

If the walls are very crooked, you will have to plaster. It should be said that this process is laborious and for a beginner it can be quite difficult. The following video will help you understand all the subtleties of this process.

This will align all the walls.

Leveling the floor

The waterproofing layer on the floor must be covered with a concrete screed. In this case, it is better to add polypropylene fiber to the solution. This will help avoid shrinkage cracks. In addition, the floors in our apartments are rarely even. So with the help of a screed, we will solve two problems at once - we will hide the waterproofing and level the floor.

Important! If you decide to install a warm floor in your toilet, install it before pouring the screed.

The easiest way to fill the screed is to use the "beacons". In a small room, it is enough to install only two guide strips - along the walls. The distance between the "beacons" should be 1-1.3 m. Special plaster beacons are sold in stores, but if you want to save money, you can use trimming a wooden beam or a metal profile for drywall for these purposes. The cost of repairing a toilet can be slightly reduced not only by doing all the work with your own hands, but also by trying to send as little residual building materials as possible to the landfill. The main thing here is not to overdo it - sometimes excessive savings leads to very disastrous results.

So let's get started:

• We set the guides in level and attach them to small slides of mortar;
• Be sure to check the location of the lighthouses relative to each other with a long level;
• When the solution has dried, proceed to pouring. We start from the far corner of the room and move towards the door;
• We pour out several buckets of mortar at the far wall and "stretch" it with the rule as shown in the video on leveling the walls;
• If you get deep "pits", add a solution to them and once again go through the rule;

After the entire surface of the floor is covered with a screed, let it dry. This process usually takes several days. You should not try to speed it up due to the high temperature in the room - this will lead to a significant decrease in the working qualities of the concrete. On particularly hot days, cover the concrete with plastic wrap and moisten it once a day.

Important! The period of complete drying of the concrete screed is about a month. This is exactly how much you need to wait if you have laid an electric "warm floor" under the screed.

Laying tiles

When all communications are replaced, the box is installed, and the floor and walls are leveled, you can start laying the tiles. Fortunately, the variety of colors, sizes and textures of this material will satisfy even the most discerning consumer, and ideas for toilet repair can be found in the same magazines.

First of all, we lay the tiles on the walls.

• Measure the height of the wall and divide by the height of the tile. This way you get the number of whole rows. Then calculate the height of the trimmed tile.

Important! When calculating the height of the trimmed tiles, be sure to take into account the gap between the rows. Usually it is 2-3mm.

• Measure from the floor a distance equal to the height of the cut row and attach a flat wooden plank or metal profile according to the level;
• At the corners of the wall, using a plumb line, we fix vertical strips - they will serve as a vertical level;
• Preparing the solution. To do this, pour water into the prepared container and pour the adhesive in small portions. Stir with a construction mixer (special drill attachment).

The required proportion is usually indicated on the package. But the final decision must be made based on the consistency of the solution: it should stick to the wall and not drain, and at the same time be sufficiently elastic and smear.

The technology for laying tiles on walls and floors is perfectly shown in the next video. In addition, you will learn how to properly cut tiles and grout joints. In the video, experienced craftsmen do not use vertical levels, but for those who took up the laying of tiles for the first time, it is better to play it safe.

Toilet repair - video instructions for laying tiles

Ceiling

The ceiling in the bathroom can be almost anything - plastic, stretch or plasterboard. The latter is less preferable, but if you really want to, make it from moisture-resistant gypsum board. In this case, it must be borne in mind that such drywall sheets are heavier than the ceiling ones, which means that the supporting structure for them must be reinforced.

Plumbing installation

You can start installing plumbing within a day after grouting the tiles. The variety of models of toilets, washbasins and shower stalls does not allow us to give general recommendations for their installation. As a rule, the package contains instructions that will help you cope with the last stage of the repair.

That's all. Now you know exactly how to make a toilet repair yourself: where to start, what to pay special attention to, how to save as much as possible. As you can see, the renovation process in this small room takes a lot of time and effort. The only good news is that it is done quite rarely. Of course, if all the work is done correctly, and the materials are selected with taste.

After you have bought a new beautiful apartment, you will need renovation. Repair in a new building is inexpensive, quickly and efficiently. Excellent craftsmen will always help you.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is not a particularly difficult job - the combination of temperature and humidity in the toilet room rarely goes beyond the usual for living quarters. You just need to remember that the toilet is an extremely functional room, and everything in it should be subordinated to a very specific goal: to ensure the best functioning of the smooth muscles of the excretory organs.

It does not at all follow from this that we are talking about things that cannot be explained. On the contrary, we will describe how to make an inexpensive toilet renovation, while making it cozy, comfortable and peaceful. Even Galen and Avicenna wrote that for the sake of health and longevity, natural needs should be sent in a good mood and with pleasure. Modern medicine fully confirms their findings.

Repair stages

The step-by-step repair of the toilet includes the following stages of work:

1. selection of the type, place and method of installing the toilet;
2. design development;
3. selection and purchase of materials;
4. cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling;
5. laying of communications;
6. floor repair;
7. plumbing cabinet device;
8. repair of walls and ceilings;
9. floor finishing;
10. installation of lighting, ventilation, washbasin, urinal, bidet;
11. decoration of walls, sanitary cabinet, ceiling;
12. door replacement.

Repair that does not involve replacing plumbing and complex construction work (cosmetic) is much easier and will be described in a separate section. Now let's look at the stages of how to make repairs in the toilet.

Toilet

For the sake of it, in fact, the toilet was created. When choosing this device, you should first of all think: shouldn't you put a hanging toilet?

The faucet, washbasin spout and shower diffuser built into the wall are nothing more than a tribute to fashion. Their technical and economic feasibility, to put it mildly, is very, very dubious: the slightest malfunction is tantamount to a breakthrough, hence the exorbitant high cost of devices with their lower reliability at times. In some countries, building codes already explicitly prohibit them.

But the toilet is a completely different matter. It is difficult to clean the floor around its pedestal, and especially the nook under the bend, and if you take a smear there and send it for analysis at the SES ... the faint of heart are asked to refrain from viewing.

Under the wall-mounted toilet there is a flat, easy-to-clean floor. You cannot make a niche in the wall for him in our typical house - the wall thickness will not be enough - but in any toilet, the suspension bracket and the flush cistern are very simply covered with a plumbing cabinet, which does not allow dirt to accumulate in the back streets. And the repair of a small toilet in this case, along the way, solves another important sanitary and hygienic problem, which will be discussed in its place.

Design

Requirements for toilet design based on the needs of physiology are justified by a huge mass of material, from the works of archaeologists studying the camps of primitive people to the latest research in the field of molecular biology. It is based on a simple fact: biological evolution is progressing at a snail's pace compared to the development of civilization and physiologically we are the same as our distant ancestors in skins and with a gnarled club in hook hands.

Without going into details, interesting for readers who are not prone to hypocrisy, but requiring a lot of space to describe, we will summarize:

• Small details, especially variegated ones, are unacceptable: they create a subconscious feeling of anxiety, which interferes with the work of the intestines.
• You should also avoid bright, saturated and flashy tones in colors; pastel colors are preferred.
• The overall tone should “grow colder” from bottom to top, while losing juiciness at the same time.
• Solid vertical planes that give the impression of open space are also undesirable.
• The walls should be divided vertically into two sections: from the floor to the level of the eyes or chin of the sitter and above - to the ceiling.
• Dense planes hanging over the head also have a bad effect on physiology.

Note: pastel colors are also good in that the inevitable change in color tone in the toilet (see below) is not so noticeable in them.

Based on this, the physiologically justified color design of the toilet looks like this:

1. The floor is fairly dark, yellowish, brownish or grayish.
2. Walls to a height of 90-120 cm (3-4 rows of tiles 30x30 cm) are unsaturated red-brown with specks or very light gray also with specks.
3. The walls above and to the ceiling are beige, mustard, cream, etc. It can be with a flat relief or a faded blurred pattern.
4. The ceiling is pale blue, pale cream or pearl gray.

Materials (edit)

When choosing materials for repairing a toilet, consider the following:

• A lot is spilled on the floor in the toilet in exceptional cases, but what is spilled even in negligible quantities is saturated with biologically active substances (biologically active substances) and very active chemical compounds.
• It evaporates into the air in the toilet compared to the bathroom a little, but most of the vapors are chemically active, strong and unpleasant smelling substances: ammonia, unsaturated and cyclic hydrocarbons, etc.

Such circumstances impose certain restrictions on the selection of materials:

1. Any wood and products based on it (MDF, laminate) should be discarded - they are porous and organic. The fact that small sprays from a childish child or a guest who has taken a hard walk are immediately absorbed is good only at first glance. In fact, a pleasant to the touch and pleasing to the eye teak, yew or cork floor will quickly become a haven for microbes. They do not spray on the ceiling, but vapors rise primarily to it.
2. Tiles based on ordinary silicates (not white from the inside out) are also undesirable. Chemically, it is neutral, but there are many micropores in it, and it absorbs and keeps odors in itself well. You will have to use deodorant more often, but it costs money and is not a natural part of the air.
3. Washable PVC wallpaper needs to be treated with care because of the filler. It can also absorb volatile compounds. You should buy either certified or from a trusted manufacturer.
4. A conventional floor screed is also undesirable, even with the addition of a polymer emulsion: its moisture absorption coefficient can reach 0.4% by volume. For the bathroom, this is more than good, but in the toilet it is not water with a small admixture of fragrant shampoo that gets on the floor.
5. The armstrong suspended ceiling is excluded: it is highly porous, and even made from chemically unstable organic matter - paper production waste.
6. Any paper wallpaper, no matter how modified it, for the same reason.
7. Any paints with organic pigment and filler: from the most insignificant miasms they very soon turn yellow, gray and take on a completely disgusting look.
8. Foam ceiling panels are for the same reason.

• The cladding is covered with porcelain stoneware. Dense, chemically resistant and durable material is slightly more expensive than tiles. And the percentage of production rejects is much lower than that of inexpensive tiles, so in general it comes out cheaper.
• Tile - earthenware or other on the basis of kaolin (white inside out and with a shiny fine-grained fracture).
• Paints - on mineral pigment and marble flour (microcalcite) filler. A little worse with a filler made of dolomite flour, but with skillful painting for 7-10 years, they are also enough.
• Washable wallpaper - from polypropylene, polyester or foam.
• Drywall - only moisture resistant, green.
• Plasterboard profiles - galvanized or aluminum.
• Plaster - any, but with the obligatory impregnation with a roller after hardening with a primer on concrete of deep penetration.
• Waterproofing - aquaizol or polyester.
• Floor screed - base and liquid polymer finishing.

Note: self-leveling floors were invented primarily for toilets, as a replacement for the useless cement-sand screed in them. They are not cheap, but the toilet costs are small. If we take into account the bedding, selected sand, fittings, beacons, a tool for a concrete screed, but on a small area, a self-leveling floor comes out even cheaper.

Sewerage replacement

Replacing the sewerage system in an apartment is a difficult job. Here we will just add a little: in front of the cross, it is advisable to insert a tee with a 32 mm pipe into the outlet from the bathroom and kitchen. When repairing a small toilet in a panel house, it will even come in handy, see the section on the arrangement of a washbasin in a Khrushchev toilet.

Cleaning the premises

Cleaning a toilet before renovation is easier than cleaning a bathroom, but it has its own peculiarities:

1. Before leaving the floor, carefully inspect the toilet fittings (it is assumed that all plumbing is removed immediately). The labor intensity of floor works and their costs largely depend on their condition, see the section on floor repair.
2. Both the floor and the walls do not need to be poked out to bare masonry, slabs or ceilings: the bulk of the plaster and screed in toilets, as a rule, do not deteriorate even in damp block Khrushchevs.
3. The tile can be knocked down roughly, without cleaning the floor to a smooth surface: with a self-leveling screed, small irregularities are insignificant.
4. The paint and topcoat of plaster on the ceiling and walls is dusty, but can be easily removed with a drill and a round metal brush. With some skill, you can then immediately paint, glue tiles and wallpaper.
5. The skill of cleaning with a brush is developed quite quickly, so it is better to start cleaning from surfaces that are later covered by a sanitary cabinet: there the flaws will disappear forever.
6. At the end of cleaning, the walls and ceiling must be vacuumed and treated with a roller with a deep penetration primer on concrete. While you tinker with the floor, the walls and ceiling will be completely ready for painting, gluing and cladding.

Laying of communications

If the toilet is being repaired in Khrushchev, then there is no choice regarding hydraulics and sewerage: they remain where they were. The mini-washbasin (which is discussed below) does not require much trouble.

In the case when the area of ​​the room allows the installation of additional sanitary and hygienic devices, then the pipes for them will have to be hidden in the walls, otherwise they will spoil the whole view. The installation technology is the same as in the bathroom: solid brazed propylene on solid propylene fittings in grooves. At the end of the installation, the grooves are foamed. There are two characteristics, as Americans say, good and bad:

• It is not worth plastering the grooves in the walls: they will be perfectly glued with tiles.
• It is impossible to hide pipes in the floor or to let them in a bundle in the corners, covering them with slopes: the first will create places of accumulation of miasms, and the second, in addition, will be conspicuous and will noticeably reduce the floor area, which is not redundant anyway. So a perforator with a chisel for concrete will have to work wonderfully well.

If "replacement" is understood as how to remove, paint and put again, then remember: you need to paint only in a horizontal position, otherwise it will not do without drips. The paint is the same as the others for the toilet. White, in order of preference - titanium, lead (do not worry, this is not free lead, they are not poisonous), zinc. The latter, from traces of ammonia in the air, turn yellow after 3-4 years; titanium is almost eternal.

Redecorating

Redecorating the toilet assumes that the matter is limited to finishing and painting, and all plumbing fixtures remain in place. In this case, the decoration of the walls and ceiling does not differ from that already described, but with the floor we can do it easier:

• Remove the skirting board.
• The perimeter of the room and the circumference of the riser (or the contour of the cross, if it is semi-recessed into the floor, we seal with silicone.
• Option 1: on the floor, directly over the previous tiles, pour the liquid polymer bulk floor with a layer of 10-15 mm. Calculation of the volume - by the area of ​​the room.
• Option 2: we lay marmoleum, having removed the toilet first. Cheaper and rusted mounts can be replaced. With serviceable fasteners on the marmoleum sheet, in the places for the bolts, we make cross-shaped cuts (this does not need to be measured with jewelry precision), and after the flooring, the excess is cut off with a mounting knife.
• Put the skirting back in place - you're done.

Toilet BEFORE and AFTER cosmetic repairs without replacing communications

Toilet with a washstand in Khrushchev

Look again at the drawing with the sanitary cabinet. Yes, there is a small washstand, and you can wash your hands right there and then. But where to get one? They cost more in railway cars ... Do it yourself:

1. Spout - ready-made, goose, with the smallest possible overhang.
2. The sink is a plastic reusable deep bowl with a narrow bottom and an upper edge bent down. The choice is rich, the prices are inexpensive.
3. Water supply - with metal-plastic henki pipes, as in the sink in the kitchen from the tees on the pipes.
4. Branch - corrugation 32 mm into a tee on the branch from the bath with the kitchen (that's what it is for!).
5. Siphon - due to the bending of the corrugation.

The alternative is a miniature sink. But you have to look for it.

How do you get a sink out of a bowl? First, in the center of the bottom of the bowl we drill 4 holes of 4 mm, inscribed in a circle with a diameter of 30 mm; this will be the mesh. Then we cut out a round boss from plywood 12-18 mm: outer diameter - according to the diameter of the bottom of the bowl, excluding the collar; internal - 35 mm. We saturate the lug with PVA emulsion. Then we glue the lug with AQUARIUM silicone glue to the bottom of the bowl and glue the corrugation into it with the same silicone.

Now it remains to cut openings for a bowl with a diameter along the upper diameter of the bowl in the shelf of the sanitary cabinet with a circular drill on the stone (the cabinet is already tiled with tiles); then it will lie on the shelf with a bent edge, and under the spout. The main thing is not to miscalculate with the markings: the water should flow slightly away from the very center of the sink-bowl so that it does not splatter on the grid.

And finally, we fix the mini-sink with silicone, now it is possible with a cheaper construction one. We put the corrugation in the sewer pipe, seal it with the same silicone. In the closet, we put a fastening nut on the henks of the spout, bring them out, attach the spout to the fittings, insert it into place, fasten it with a nut - the mini-washstand is ready.

Note: do not glue the boss with construction silicone or superglue (cyanoacrylate glue). The first is not strong enough, and the joint on the second will fall apart in six months or a year.

Outcome

A self-repairing toilet can be performed by an average home craftsman. Apart from the substantial savings in money, this will provide an experience with which to get started.

Step-by-step instructions for repairing a bathroom and toilet.

According to most finishers, repairs in an apartment should be started from the bathroom. Let me explain why: this is the dirtiest and dusty part of the renovation, requiring not only the dismantling of old tiles, plumbing fixtures, doors, and sometimes the entire bathroom walls.

We remove the old

So the first thing we do is we take out the old plumbing: a bath, a sink, a toilet bowl ... Everything that costs, weighs, lies.

Next stage: with the help of a grinder we cut off all the old pipes to the crane located on the riser.

Using a punch, knock down the old tiles.

It is important if the plaster under the tiles moves away from the wall, bunches ... it must also be beaten off.

We dismantle the old door together with the box.

Change risers... Now we turn our attention to the plumbing and sewer risers. This is a very important part of the renovation and must be changed. After renovation it will be very problematic. If you are not an expert in plumbing work, then it is better to invite qualified craftsmen to replace the risers, but you can do the internal wiring of the water supply yourself.

Checking the hood... Let's move on to the hood. If we do not want the bathroom to be stuffy, we need to check the operation of the hood. To do this, we bring a burning candle to the hood and evaluate its work by the tongue of the flame: the better the hood works, the more intensely the flame is sucked into the chimney pipe. If the hood does not work correctly, we either clean it or install a fan in it.

We prepare the walls and floor

We ground the walls... At the next stage, I propose to clean up properly: take a broom and sweep out all the debris and dust from the bathroom. After all the dust has settled, we take a deep penetration primer and prime the walls.

Installing beacons... After the primer has completely dried, we install beacons for further plastering of the bathroom. Lighthouses must be installed strictly according to the level, observing the plane of the wall and maintaining angles of 90 degrees.

Plastering walls... Have you installed the lighthouses? Let's start plastering. To do this, we need a rule, a spatula, a drill and a drill mixer attachment. Bathrooms are plastered, as a rule, with dry gypsum mixtures, since there is no shortage of them on the market. I usually use Rotband plaster. We take a bucket of 12 liters and prepare a solution in it as written in the instructions. Using a spatula, we throw a solution between the beacons of one wall 50 centimeters from the floor. Then we take the rule, press it against the lighthouses and pull it up - we get a flat surface. We remove superfluous from the rule. And so on all the walls - from floor to ceiling. There are not large pits left - it does not matter - then we level them with a spatula. If everything is smooth and beautiful, then you have coped with the task.

Leveling the floors... The next stage is the floors. We level them with the help of "self-leveling floors". We dilute the mixture as stated in the instructions, you can even slightly - a little thinner, and spread it all over the floor using a needle roller. After drying, the walls and floors, just in case, we check by level, we eliminate unevenness.

We make a detailed plan of the bathroom... At the next stage, we must decide on the design of the bathroom, where? as? and at what height? there will be a bath, a sink, a mirror, a washing machine (if any), a towel dryer, a toilet bowl, a box covering the risers. To do this, we take a tape measure and measure our bathroom - after plastering, the dimensions have changed. Then we take a pencil and a sheet of paper, and sketch everything. Let's call this a bathroom plan. For the plan to be accurate, at this stage, we need to buy all the bathroom objects. It is important to remember: if the bathtub is tied to the size (I mean that your bathtub is not half a football field, but for example 1m.70cm by 1m.50cm), then the bath should be bought as long as possible. And if your size is 1m.68cm. - you need to buy a bath for 1m.70cm. Then 2cm. screw it up. With this sort of sorted out.

Video - turnkey bath repair

We make (sketch) a detailed markup of the water supply and sewerage system... If everything is purchased, then we continue. We collect the bath in a free room. We put it on the legs and level it. As a rule, in most bathtubs, the height of the legs is adjustable - we adjust the height for you. We measure the height and width of the bath. We transfer the dimensions to the bathroom wall. All the same - we do the same with the sink and the washing machine. The next thing we do is mark on the walls how our water supply and sewerage system will go. A bathroom faucet is usually installed in the center 10 cm above the bathtub - this also needs to be sketched on the walls. The distance between the pipes to the bathroom faucet should be 15cm. We mark the water supply for the sink, based on the structural features of the bedside table, and the length of the flexible hoses of the mixer. We mark only one pipe under the washing machine - the cold one. We sketch the sewer pipes at an angle towards the riser (so that there is a drain). If a small slope can be made under the bath and sink, then the outlet under the washing machine should be at a distance of 50 cm. from the floor.

We make (sketch) a detailed marking of the wiring... The next thing we do is define the wiring. How many sockets will we have, and where - if there is a washing machine, then next to it. Use an electric shaver - next to the mirror. If you have a backlit mirror, you will need to bring out a wire under it (decide at what height). If there will be a fan, we will bring it out under it too.

Making strobes... When we have completely decided and sketched, we take a puncher and chase it according to the plan. Next, we remove and prime the grooves.

We install water supply and sewerage... At the next stage, we install the water supply (comb) and sewerage system. Don't forget to install water meters and filters as well. Since our water supply is retracted into the walls, it is better to use polypropylene pipes or metal-plastic pipes.

We mount a heated towel rail... At the next stage, we invite the masters or install the heated towel rail ourselves. The pipes are also wall-mounted.

We mount the box... So we still have unclosed risers, and we are fixing it. We assemble a box from a metal profile and sew it up with plasterboard. Drywall must be moisture resistant - it is green. Also, do not forget about the technical hatch, it will be needed so that there is access to the taps and the meter. Then we install a perforated corner on the corner of our box and plaster the entire box.

We prime the walls and floor... As a result, what we see is a completely plastered bathroom, without visible pipes and wires. Once again, we look at everything in detail for the presence of irregularities. If there are any, we fix it with a spatula and sandpaper.

We spread the floor... Now we lay out the floor with tiles. For this we need - a drill, a mixer, a bucket, an ordinary spatula, a notched trowel, a professional tile cutter, crosses (1.5-2mm.).

We lay out the tiles so that all the cut edges are under the bathroom and sink. This way we will only have a whole tile in plain sight. Do not forget to use the level and insert crosses.

We spread 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom from the floor... Then you will need to lay 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom - for waterproofing. If you are using a small tile, then 30 centimeters from the floor will be sufficient.

We rub the tiles under the bathroom (wall, floor).

Installing the bath... It's time for the bathroom. We put the bath in, set it strictly in level and in length and in width. We expand the bath.

We put wall tiles... We lay out the wall tiles. We start right from the bathtub, from the most prominent corner, and drive in a circle. From the sides of the bath, you need to drill slats so that all the tiles are level. Finish the top, remove the slats and report on the bottom. Let the tiles dry and take out the crosses.

We clean the seams.

We rub the seams.

We mount the ceiling... Now we need to decide what we are going to do with the ceiling. There are several options: putty and paint, suspended from plastic panels, tensioned. They are all good in their own way, you choose.

We install the door. It's time to install the missing plumbing - a sink, a washing machine, a toilet bowl, faucets, a bath screen.

It remains to hang the mirror, put the sockets and the bath is ready.

This order of work will prevent you from making the most common mistakes when the quality of the work performed suffers and sometimes leads to rework.

Happy renovation!