Hugo boss sewed uniforms for the Nazis. Few people know about this, but the famous form of organization of the SS was produced by ... "Hugo Boss"

Many still, and not without reason, believe that the most beautiful military uniform in history was precisely the form of the Third Reich. (Although, in my opinion, it is worthy of competition with our single-breasted general uniforms of the Victory era or the uniform of the domestic airborne forces (tough in its minimalism) and excellent uniforms for sailors and officers of the Navy). One way or another, but few people know that interesting fact that such a well-known brand company as ... “Hugo Boss” took a direct part in the creation of the military uniform of Nazi Germany. Captured Poles and French worked at its enterprises. They sewed uniforms for the military of the Third Reich.

In those distant times, Hugo Boss was not yet a world-famous brand. Hugo Ferdinand Boss opened his tailoring workshop outerwear in 1923. They sewed different things: overalls, windbreakers, raincoats - mainly for workers. There was tailoring and sportswear. In 1930, the factory was threatened with bankruptcy, and then on April 1, 1931, Hugo Boss decided to join the National Socialist German Workers' Party (membership number 508889). Thus, he saves his enterprise by receiving a party order for the production of uniforms for the SA, SS, Luftwaffe and Hitler Youth. By that time, the Nazi Party was already receiving large donations from across ... the ocean - from the Wall Street bankers there!

But the author-developer of the SS uniform, as well as many regalia of the Third Reich, was another person: on July 7, 1932, black uniforms and caps were introduced for members of the SS, sewn according to the patterns of the artist and adviser to the Reichsführer SS on “art issues” Karl Diebitsch (Karl Diebitsch) who was born in 1899. He will die much later - in 1985. His ancestors were from Silesia. Diebitsch was a designer by training, but he also served as an SS Oberführer. By the way, it was Dibich who developed both the famous Ahnenerbe logo and the design of crosses for SS officers. Dibich also developed the design of edged weapons for the SS. In addition, he was director of the porcelain factory "Porzellan Manufaktur Allach" in 1936 - before the transfer of the factory under the control of the SS and moving it to Dachau. As one of the researchers of this issue writes, “Hugo Boss' firm only carried out tailoring (the things of his atelier can be recognized by the marks “VA-SS”, “besteMassarbeit”, “vomReichsfuehrer-SS befohleneAusfuehrung”, etc.). Atelier Boss did not produce uniforms for ordinary SS men, it was only for the ruling elite and the highest ranks of the SS and Luftwaffe.

Diebitsch designed the SS uniform together with the SS Sturmhauptführer (captain) and graphic artist, Walter Heck, who helped him. It was the latter who, in 1933, developed the emblem of the SS, famous today, by combining two runes "Zig" (the rune "zig" - lightning in ancient German mythology was considered a symbol of the god of war Thor). He also created the emblem of the SA.

The model for the creation of uniforms of the SS was probably the black color of the uniform of the Prussian hussars "death's head" (Totenkopfhusaren), which the latter wore from the 18th century until 1910. (Recall that the Prussians are Germanized Slavs. The entire population of East and, partially, Central Germany has a haplotype identical to the inhabitants of Kostroma, Arkhangelsk, Smolensk, Orel, Voronezh, Lipetsk, Ryazan, etc., as well as all Russian settlers in Siberia and , if even wider, all of Asia. It was the Prussian aristocracy that created the German state in its former form. In this sense, the massacre provoked "behind the scenes" between Germans and Slavs - both in the First World War and in the Second World War, should be considered as a CIVIL WAR - the most absurd (in the highest, Church Slavonic sense of the word!) and JOYFUL for hell!It is no coincidence that the head of the Belgian SS, Leon Degrel, who at one time succumbed to Nazi propaganda and considered that the Third Reich was called upon to fight in the East against the "wild Asian hordes", when saw with WHOM he and his SS units were REALLY fighting, much later, after the Great War, he hung in his office a portrait of Russian and German soldiers - valiantly standing against each other friend! .. It remains to be added: alas, FRIEND is against FRIEND!)

The "Black Hussars" covered themselves with immortal glory on the battlefields. Later, many SS men were proud of the similarity of their form with the form of these reckless daredevils, whom everyone in Germany knew about.

The first mention of the Prussian "black hussars" can be attributed to the reign of Frederick II (the Great). The Fifth Hussars ("black hussars", "death hussars") was created in 1741 from squadrons of the 1st and 3rd hussars. The combination of black and white in the uniform was a living reflection of the heraldic colors of the kingdom of Prussia.

Why the mirlitons of the hussars were decorated with a "dead head" is still not exactly known. But historically, this sign meant fearlessness in battle and was the emblem of the most daring.

It is also important to note that in Russian Empire there were also black hussars (only not “hussars of death”, but “immortals”), which differed in a similar form. A strange coincidence: it was also ... the 5th regiment, "Alexandrian Hussars."

Having taken part in many battles, after participating in the Napoleonic wars, the miraculously surviving regiment was divided into two regiments - the 1st and 2nd Life Hussar regiments. V German Empire these regiments were among one of the most prestigious - guards; and in their composition there were many persons of royal families. At the beginning of the 20th century, the chief of the 1st regiment was Crown Prince Wilhelm, and the 2nd was Princess Victoria (whose photo, we believe, can be seen above).

Of course, Dibich caught this time (he was born in 1899), and well remembered the uniform of the "black hussars". It remains only to adapt the harsh aesthetics to the set goals, and - the most stylish uniform of the 20th century is ready! So the new elite became to some extent the successor of the old one, with the only difference being that the aristocrats disdained to join the SS (unlike the Life Hussar regiments). The aristocracy of Nazi Germany preferred the heavenly Air Force - the Luftwaffe. (For anyone interested in Kaiser Germany, the ru_kaiserreich community can be recommended!)

Tellingly, at the front among the SS there were cases of replacing the SS “dead head” on a cap with a “dead head” from tank buttonholes. This "Totenkopf" is very reminiscent of the Life Hussar.

Initially designed uniforms were worn exclusively by SS officers, but by the end of 1933 all ranks had them.

It should be noted that the organization of the SS, as www.pravda.ru notes, had a three-member structure and consisted of the General SS (Allgemeine SS), parts of the SS "Dead Head" (SS-Totenkopfstandarten) and special paramilitary SS units located in the barracks ( SS Verfügungstruppe). The last two, along with the "Leibstandarte Adolf Hitler" (Leibstandarte-SS Adolf Hitler), formed the backbone of the future SS troops (Waffen-SS).

In fact, they stopped wearing black uniforms after 1939 (with the outbreak of World War II), when a mass transition of members of the political party organization of the General SS (Allgemeine SS) to gray uniforms began, in addition, many SS men entered military service, including in the SS troops (Waffen-SS), which since 1937 wore camouflage uniforms. The main difference between the SS uniform is buttonholes with standard runes and a woven emblem with an eagle, sewn not on the right side of the chest above the pocket, like the Wehrmacht soldiers, but on the left sleeve. In 1938, army-style shoulder straps appeared with piping of different colors, depending on the type of troops.

Black SS uniforms could well have ended up in the dressing rooms of Soviet film studios, because in 1942 a large number of sets of black SS uniforms were transferred to auxiliary police units in the occupied territories of the USSR, with the replacement of SS symbols and insignia. The rest of the kits ended up in the West, where they were handed over to members of local SS formations in the occupied countries. As for the women's units of the SS, they had a uniform consisting of a black cap with an SS eagle, a gray jacket and a gray skirt, as well as stockings and shoes.

The most observant TV viewers have long noticed that Shtrilits appeared on the screen in an elegant gray uniform without a defiant swastika on his sleeve. In it, a Soviet intelligence officer goes to see Himmler. And he did the right thing, otherwise the Standartenführer could not escape the dressing down from the Reichsführer, and this would be a "puncture" of our agent. Types in black uniforms disappeared not only from the streets of German cities, but even from the building of the RSHA. People spoke caustically about them, calling them "black SS", in contrast to the brave "white SS", which they were proud of. Because they shed blood...

Sets of light gray uniforms began to arrive in the reinforcement of the SS as early as 1935, but three years later its design was thoroughly redone. Having retained (with the exception of color) the cut of the black uniform, light gray, instead of a red bandage with a black edging with a white circle with a swastika inscribed in it, it acquired an SS eagle on the left sleeve above the elbow.

Prepared by Alexey Anatolyevich Cheverda

Famous german fashion house apologized to the world community for the fact that during the Second World War, forced labor was used in his factories.

Hugo Ferdinand BOSS.

Why did Hugo join the Nazi party?

Back in 1997, Hugo Boss publicly acknowledged its collaboration with the Nazis. The impetus for the statement of the representatives of the company was the disclosure of hidden bank accounts in Switzerland, in which the name of Hugo Boss appeared, which proved his connection with the Nazis. But then in the statements there was a statement about the complete ignorance of the company's management about this fact - the absence of any mention of events related to the maintenance of the Nazi regime in the company's archives served as an argument.
In 2006, the Austrian magazine Profil wrote that Hugo Boss supplied uniforms to the Nazi army during World War II. And, even worse, she used the labor of prisoners from concentration camps and prisoners of war for this. The firm did not deny the allegations. Press secretary Monica Stylen said at the time: “The Hugo Boss factory made work clothes and, apparently, uniforms for the SS. But since the enterprise did not have more accurate data about its history, the supply of Nazi uniforms and the use of forced labor were left without comment. And only a year later, the 83-year-old son of Hugo Boss Siegfried admitted that his father was a member of the Nazi Party. “And who was not a member at that time? The whole industry worked for the Nazis,” said Siegfried Boss.
To clean up the image of the company, it was decided to hire a historian who would investigate the events of 60 years ago, as did many other German companies accused of collaborating with the Nazis.
Author of the recent book Hugo Boss, 1924-1945, specialist in economic history The University of the Bundeswehr, Roman Köster, to whom the company commissioned the study, had to check the rumors about the use of forced labor in the factories of the enterprise, and also to find out whether Hugo Ferdinand Boss was really Hitler's "personal tailor".
After studying historical documents, the author of the book came to the conclusion that the founder of a textile company in the city of Metzingen (Baden-Württemberg) was a sincere supporter of the Nazi Party. “It is clear that Hugo Ferdinand Boss joined the party not only because of the opportunity to receive orders for the tailoring of military uniforms,” the author of the publication writes.
After the war, Boss claimed until his death in 1948 that he had joined to save his company, having been commissioned to make uniforms, first for party members and then for SS units. “Perhaps this is true, however, judging by the statements of Hugo Ferdinand Boss, it cannot be said that he personal views disagreed with the views of the National Socialists, says Köster. “That probably didn’t happen.”
From April 1940, Hugo Boss began to use forced labor in his enterprise, mostly women. At the factory, which served as the basis for the current Fashion House, 140 immigrants from Poland and 40 from France were used as forced labor in those years. Especially for such workers, a camp was built near the factory. Hygiene and food supply were at times very far from accepted norms.
As Roman Koester notes, in 1944, a year before the end of the war, Boss tried to alleviate the situation of female workers. He ordered some of them to be placed in his house, and also improved their nutrition. “We can only repeat what is already known: the treatment of forced factory workers was at times very cruel and reached the point of coercion. At the same time, care was shown about them, so it is very difficult to come to unambiguous conclusions, ”the author of the book writes.
The leadership of the fashion house Hugo Boss does not deny its past. After receiving the results of Roman Köster's research, the bosses not only did not interfere with the publication of the book, but also accompanied it with an official apology for the use of forced labor in the past. “We acknowledge all the hard facts and deeply regret that many people had to endure suffering while working in our factories during the war years. We didn't even try to hide it or rewrite history. By funding Roman Köster's research, we hoped to see true story our company. Our expectations have come true,” Hugo Boss management said in an official statement.
Representatives of Hugo Boss claim that they did not subject the work of Roman Koester to any censorship and that the book came out in the form in which the author wrote it.

It all started with a uniform for postmen

Hugo Boss is one of the most famous fashion houses. Under this brand, classic lines of clothing, accessories and perfumes are produced. Clothing lines for men and women (there is also a children's line) from Hugo Boss are produced under two brands: Boss collections are presented separately, the main one is named Boss Black, and separately - Hugo clothing lines. Unlike the classic Boss, the Hugo brand is more unconventional and progressive. Another brand for "sophisticated" men and women, according to advertising, Hugo Boss is positioning the Baldessarini brand. Also accessories are produced under the Hugo Boss brand: watches, sunglasses and even mobile phones(together with Samsung), as well as perfumery.
Hugo Ferdinand Boss founded his company in Metzingen in 1923, just a few years after the end of the First World War, at a time when almost all of Germany was in a state of economic collapse.
At first it was a family business, the company was a small shop that grew into a small factory that was engaged in sewing uniforms for social services - policemen, postmen and overalls for workers. The post-war crisis in Germany affected the company, and soon, in 1930, Hugo Boss declared bankruptcy.
But changes in social and political life in Germany gave the company the opportunity for revenge. In 1931 (two years before Adolf Hitler came to power), Hugo Boss, like many Germans, joins the National Socialist Party of Germany. And soon the new party affiliation begins to bear fruit. One of the first major contracts Hugo Boss got was to make brown shirts for members of the Nazi Party. Then he received orders for the manufacture of uniforms for the German armed forces, attack aircraft, SS men and the youth organization Hitler Jugend. He also proudly wore a party badge on his jacket, recalls Hugo Boss' son Siegfried.
In 1946, for his membership in the party, support for the SS and supplying Nazi troops with uniforms - even before 1933 - Boss was recognized as an activist and supporter of the NSDAP; for this he was deprived of the right to vote, the opportunity to run his own company and was fined 100,000 marks.
In the post-war period, the company returned to the manufacture of clothing for postmen and police officers. In 1948, the founder of the company, Hugo Boss, dies, but the company continues to develop, and in the early 50s, the first men's suit appears in its assortment. But it wasn't until the 70s that the company focused entirely on men's fashion. The transformation of Hugo Boss into the fashion brand we know it today was greatly facilitated by the new management of the company. In 1967, brothers Holy, Uwe and Jochen, the grandsons of Hugo Boss, take over the management. In the wake of the post-war recovery of the German economy, Hugo Boss is rapidly developing and becomes the largest in Germany and one of the largest clothing manufacturers in the world, as well as an influential fashion house.

Heinrich Himmler in a Hugo Boss suit.

Entrepreneurs of the Third Reich

Fashion house Hugo Boss has joined the long list of the largest German concerns that recognized the use of slave labor during the Second World War.
Equipment manufacturers Krupp, Siemens, medical firm Bayer, automobile firms Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, BMW, Porsche, and the American company Ford exploited the labor of hundreds of thousands of prisoners of war. For example, at the BMW factories, 30,000 prisoners repaired the engines of military aircraft, but at the Krupp factories, 70,000 prisoners, along with the manufacture of coffee makers and washing machines, built ... gas chambers. This enterprise even had its own factory on the territory of the Auschwitz concentration camp. At the Bayer plant, the prisoners made poisonous gases, and they lived for only three and a half months. Out of 35,000 workers
25,000 died.
Enterprises explained the use of prisoner labor simply - all ordinary workers were in the army, there was no one to work. The money earned by the prisoners went to Hitler's party and to finance the war effort. Already in the 1950s, some former prisoners began to demand compensation from these German firms, and many of the demands were satisfied.
Not so long ago, charges of sympathy for the National Socialists were brought against the founder of the furniture company IKEA, Ingvar Kamprad. One of the richest men in the world, Ingvar Kamprad also collaborated with the Nazis during World War II. Moreover, as Swedish historian Elisabeth Osbrink argues in her new book, the founder of IKEA still does not hide his sympathies for the Nazis.

For that time, the uniform of the German troops, sewn by Hugo Boss, was very fashionable and functional.

SS Fashion

The uniform for the SS was carefully designed, but looked intimidating. (SS is the abbreviated name of the German Schutzstaffel - “protective division”, the elite of the fascist troops.) The black SS uniform (well known to our viewers from Tatyana Lioznova’s Seventeen Moments of Spring) was invented by a 34-year-old heraldry specialist, a member of the Imperial Association of German Artists » Prof. Karl Diebitsch with his assistant Walter Heck. The latter also developed an emblem in the form of a double rune "zig" (the rune "zig" - lightning - in ancient German mythology was considered a symbol of the god of war Thor) and the design of melee weapons for the SS.
The creation of the SS uniform of Dibich was inspired by the uniform of the Prussian “Hussar of Death” (in colloquial German since the 18th century, it is customary to call the 1st Life Hussar Regiment and the 2nd Life Hussar Regiment of Queen Victoria of Prussia), which was decorated with the Totenkopf emblem - “dead head".
Ironically, the Russian Empire had its own black hussars dressed in a similar uniform: the Fifth Regiment of the Alexandrian Hussars.
Black uniforms and caps for SS members were introduced on July 7, 1932, and after 1939, a massive transition of SS members to gray uniforms began. In fact, from that moment on, the black uniform was no longer worn, giving preference to gray. Also for operations in Italy and the Balkans, SS units were dressed in yellow uniforms. In 1944, the black uniform was abolished in Germany. Soviet cultural figures turned it into a memorable symbol of the SS.

- Yes, I know that the Nazi uniform was invented by Hugo Boss, but objectively, the uniform is very beautiful. Stirlitz is immediately remembered ... And now our soldiers, they say, go in uniform from Yudashkin. So feel the difference, as they say. In general, I believe that art should be judged separately from the temporary circumstances in which it was created.

Alexey GOLOVIN,
psychologist (Krasnoyarsk):

Eduard PINYUGZHANIN,
TV journalist (Kirov):

Igor NELYUBIN,
press secretary of ZAO VyatkaTorf (Kirov):

Lyubov MOZHAEVA,
artistic director of the creative association "Union of Creators of Russia" (Irkutsk):

Sergey PLATONOV,
Senior Lecturer, Department of Economics and Management in Construction (Irkutsk):

Did you hear that Hugo Boss was making uniforms for SS? Do you want to know the truth?

SS is an abbreviation for the German Schutzstaffel- "defensive division". The elite of the fascist troops. Initially, the squadron was formed for the personal protection of Hitler, but grew into a leading military organization. And the uniform for the SS was designed carefully, but looked intimidating.

SS men wore black uniform with breeches and knee-high boots, brown shirts with a black tie, black caps with a death's head cockade, and insignia in the form of two Zig runes. But during combat training, it turned out that the black uniform was not suitable for war and the gray SS uniform for combat operations was introduced. Also for operations in Italy and the Balkans, SS units were dressed in yellow uniforms. The whole form was constantly undergoing changes and refined over the years of the war.

This variety of outfits required large capacities for the production of uniforms, and many enterprises were engaged in the production of weapons and could not produce anything else. So the provision of military needs was a profitable business.

In 1930 the company Hugo Boss(Hugo Boss) was on the verge of bankruptcy. Hugo, the owner of the factory, made up his mind and joined the NSDAP (Nazi Party) and immediately received an order for the production of uniforms for the SA, SS and Hitler Youth. In principle, the choice is quite predictable. It was difficult to exist outside the party, and members received assistance and benefits. Although the principles did not allow someone to do this ...

In 1937, almost a hundred people were already employed by Hugo Boss. With the outbreak of World War II, his company was registered as an important military enterprise and received an order for the manufacture of Wehrmacht uniforms. Indeed, some SS uniform designs were developed by Hugo Boss, but not by Hugo himself, and by Professor Karl Oberföhrer and designer Diebitschen Walter Kech.

After the war, Hugo Boss quickly switched to making uniforms for railroad workers and postmen. And the brand entered high fashion only in the 90s. At the same time, a new movement was born - Nazi chic- Nazi chic. The costumes have undergone a significant redesign and are made from completely different fabrics. Nazi uniforms are especially popular in Japan, where neo-Nazi organizations are active, and young people dress up in Nazi costumes "for fun." It is a pity that not everyone thinks about the ethics of their actions. Although you can not blame people for wanting to stand out, especially children.

And a little trash:

Even the Nazi uniform is very popular with fetishists, but the photo was not uploaded for ethical reasons. In general, there are quite sexy images:) How do you like the fetish?

Instead, I give you the video of Ann Demeulemeester

Long gone are the days when reenactors were confused with roleplayers. Today, historical reconstruction is often no longer just a hobby, but also serious work - research, study of crafts and restoration, regular intensive training, work with youth, performances in front of the audience and much more. The reconstruction movement has existed for more than one century. Back in the 17th century, certain historical events and victories were recreated for the public so that the people would not forget their history. In post-revolutionary Russia, in 1920, the first reconstruction was carried out - the storming of the Winter Palace, a costumed military "show", in which about 10 thousand people took part. Reconstruction of the Second World War in the Soviet Union originated in the 80s, when the first attempts were made to create mass events. Almost every re-enactor has a sufficient number of original antiques, since it is customary for us to make everything look as authentic as possible. Special attention is given, in particular, to the soldier's life: so that money of those times, wallets are in the pockets, soap, a razor, Toothbrush. Many have a duffel bag or knapsack fully equipped, some food is in their bread bags, some have old German newspapers.

Copies of tunics, awards and equipment of the 3rd Reich

Military uniforms of Wehrmacht soldiers some are perceived as the embodiment of evil, others - as an ordinary exhibit of collections or a necessary attribute of historical reconstructions. But regardless of the attitude, the form of the Third Reich is interesting in itself - from the point of view of its diversity and the reasons that led to certain design decisions.

Lovers and connoisseurs of history usually live outside of time and boundaries. They try to replenish their collections with amazing things that can be dated back to the last century. New builds are also in demand. Now the reconstruction of the uniform of the 3rd Reich is of great value. It is used not only as exhibits, but also for mass events of various historical clubs.

Almost all remakes of items of the 3rd Reich are completely identical to their counterparts. There is only one difference - recent production, which increases the service life. Buying a copy of the 3rd Reich clothing for reconstruction is quite simple - just refer to our Antik1941 online catalog. We guarantee fast delivery throughout Russia.

Buy a copy of the awards and weapons of the 3rd Reich

Not only uniforms, but also other accessories and items of the 3rd Reich are of great value. Our catalog is replete with various accessories that will help you do the reconstruction. Among them:

• copies of German uniforms;
• models of firearms;
• models of awards;
• copies of German orders;
  
• reconstruction of interior items;
• and much more.

If you need copies of weapons 3 Reich, you can choose not only machine guns and pistols, but also dummies of daggers and remake German knives. This will help to fully experience the times of the brutal war, to touch the ancient history. Everything differs in quality, in full compliance with the original.

Many turn to us to buy a copy of the 3rd Reich award. By the awards of a certain era, you can determine what priorities the nation had, what people were striving for.

We are always ready to help you in purchasing replicas and original antiques. Contact our online catalog at any time, leave orders that will be completed promptly.

High-quality copies of German orders and medals, copies of daggers and bayonet-knives, reconstruction of the German form of the Second World War, models of firearms, reconstruction of German military equipment, copies of steel helmets, reconstruction of household items and interior of the 3rd Reich- once again we repeat that all these things are intended for historical reconstruction, but not as for the purpose of propaganda of the criminal regime that existed in the 3rd Reich before 1945 ...

Until now, teenagers in cinemas (or during a more thorough study of the topic from photographs on the net) catch an aesthetic buzz from the type of uniforms of war criminals, from the uniform of the SS. And adults are not far behind: in the albums of many older people, the famous artists Tikhonov and Armor show off in the appropriate attire.

Such a strong aesthetic impact is due to the fact that for the SS troops (die Waffen-SS) the form and emblem were developed by a talented artist, a graduate of the Hannover Art School and the Berlin Academy, the author of the cult painting "Mother" Karl Diebitsch (Karl Diebitsch). He collaborated with SS uniform designer and fashion designer Walter Heck on the final design. And they sewed uniforms at the factories of the then little-known fashion designer Hugo Boss (Hugo Ferdinand Boss), and now his brand is famous all over the world.

History of the SS uniform

Initially, the SS guards of the party leaders of the NSDAP (Nationalsozialistische Deutsche Arbeiterpartei - National Socialist German Workers' Party), like the stormtroopers of Rem (the leader of the SA - assault squads - Sturmabteilung), went in a light brown shirt plus breeches and boots.

Even before final decision about the expediency of the existence of two parallel "advanced guard detachments of the party" at the same time and before the cleansing of the SA, the "imperial leader of the SS" Himmler continued to wear a black edging on the shoulder of a brown tunic to the members of his detachment.

The black uniform was introduced personally by Himmler in 1930. A black tunic of a sample of a military Wehrmacht jacket was worn over a light brown shirt.

At first, this tunic had either three or four buttons, the general appearance of the dress and field uniforms was constantly being refined.

When the black uniform designed by Diebitsch-Heck was introduced in 1934, only a red armband with a swastika remained from the time of the first SS detachments.

At first, there were two sets of uniforms for SS soldiers:

• front door;
• everyday.

Later, without the participation of famous designers, field and camouflage (about eight variants of summer, winter, desert and forest camouflage) uniforms were developed.

hallmarks military personnel of the SS units in appearance for a long time became:

• red armbands with a black edging and a swastika inscribed in a white circle ─ on the sleeve of the tunic of a uniform, jacket or overcoat;
• emblems on caps or caps ─ first in the form of a skull, then in the form of an eagle;
• exclusively for the Aryans ─ signs of belonging to the organization in the form of two runes on the right buttonhole, signs of military seniority on the right.

In those divisions (for example, "Viking") and individual units where foreigners served, the runes were replaced by the emblem of the division or legion.

The changes affected appearance SS men in connection with their participation in hostilities, and renaming "Allgemeine (general) SS" to "Waffen (armed) SS".

Changes by 1939

It was in 1939 that the famous "dead head" (a skull, made first of bronze, then of aluminum or brass) was transformed into the famous eagle on the cockade of a cap or cap.

The skull itself, along with other new hallmarks, remained a part of the SS Panzer Corps. In the same year, the SS men also received a white dress uniform (white tunic, black breeches).

During the reconstruction of the Allgemein SS into the Waffen SS (a purely "party army" was reorganized into combat troops under the nominal command of the General Staff of the Wehrmacht) the following changes occurred with the uniform of the SS men, under which they were introduced:

• field uniform of gray (the famous "feldgrau") color;
• full dress white uniform for officers;
• overcoats of black or gray colors, also with armbands.

At the same time, the charter allowed the overcoat to be worn unbuttoned on the top buttons, so that it would be easier to navigate in the insignia.

After the decrees and innovations of Hitler, Himmler and (under their leadership) Theodor Eicke and Paul Hausser, the division of the SS into police officers (primarily units of the "Dead Head" type) and combat units finally took shape.

Interestingly, the "police" units could only be ordered personally by the Reichsführer, but the combat units, which were considered the reserve of the military command, could be used by Wehrmacht generals. Service in the Waffen SS was equated with military service, and the police and security forces were not considered military units.

However, parts of the SS remained under the scrutiny of the supreme party leadership, as a "model political force". Hence the constant changes, even during the course of the war, in their uniforms.

SS uniform in wartime

Participation in military companies, the expansion of SS detachments to full-blooded divisions and corps gave rise to a system of ranks (not too different from the general army) and insignia:

• private (schutzman, colloquially just "man", "SS man") wore simple black shoulder straps and buttonholes with two runes on the right (left - empty, black);
• an ordinary “verified”, after six months of service (obershutze) received a “knob” (“asterisk”) of silver color on the shoulder strap of a field (“camouflage”) uniform. The rest of the insignia were identical to Schutzmann;
• the corporal (navigator) received a thin double silver stripe on the left buttonhole;
• the junior sergeant (Rottenführer) already had four stripes of the same color on the left buttonhole, and on the field uniform the “knob” was replaced with a triangular patch.

The non-commissioned officers of the SS troops (belonging to it is easiest to determine by the “ball” particle) received no longer empty black shoulder straps, but with a silver edging and included ranks from sergeant to senior sergeant major (headquarters sergeant major).

Triangles on the field uniform were replaced by rectangles of various thicknesses (the thinnest for the Unterscharführer, the thickest, almost square, for the Sturmscharführer).

These SS men had following signs differences:

• sergeant (Unterscharführer) ─ black shoulder straps with a silver edging and a small “asterisk” (“square”, “knob”) on the right buttonhole. The same insignia were in the "junker SS";
• senior sergeant (sharführer) ─ the same shoulder straps and silver stripes on the side of the “square” on the buttonhole;
• foreman (oberscharführer) ─ shoulder straps are the same, two stars without stripes on the buttonhole;
• warrant officer (hauptscharführer) ─ buttonhole, like a foreman, but with stripes, there are already two knobs on shoulder straps;
• senior warrant officer or sergeant major (Sturmscharführer) - shoulder straps with three squares, on the buttonhole the same two "squares" as the ensign, but with four thin stripes.

The last title remained quite rare: it was awarded only after 15 years of impeccable service. On the field uniform, the silver edging of the epaulette was replaced by green with the corresponding number of black stripes.

SS officer uniform

The uniform of the junior officers differed already in the shoulder straps of the camouflage (field) uniform: black with green stripes (thickness and number depending on the rank) closer to the shoulder and intertwined oak leaves above them.

• lieutenant (untersturmführer) ─ silver "empty" shoulder straps, three squares on the buttonhole;
• senior lieutenant (Obersturführer) ─ a square on shoulder straps, a silver stripe was added to the insignia on the buttonhole, two lines on the sleeve patch under the “leaves”;
• captain (hauptsturmführer) ─ additional lines on the patch and on the buttonhole, epaulette with two "knobs";
• major (Sturmbannführer) ─ silver "wicker" shoulder straps, three squares on the buttonhole;
• lieutenant colonel (oberbannshturmführer) ─ one square on a twisted pursuit. Two thin stripes under the four squares on the buttonhole.

Beginning with the rank of major, the insignia underwent minor changes in 1942. The color of the backing of the twisted epaulets corresponded to the type of troops, on the epaulet itself there was sometimes a symbol of a military specialty (a sign of a tank unit or, for example, a veterinary service). "Knobs" on shoulder straps after 1942 turned from silver into golden signs.

Upon reaching the rank above the colonel, the right buttonhole also changed: instead of the SS runes, stylized silver oak leaves were placed on it (single for the colonel, triple for the colonel general).

The remaining insignia of senior officers looked like this:

• colonel (Standartenführer) ─ three stripes under double leaves on a patch, two stars on shoulder straps, an oak leaf on both buttonholes;
• the unparalleled rank of oberführer (something like "senior colonel") ─ four thick stripes on the patch, a double oak leaf on the buttonholes.

Characteristically, these officers also had black and green "camouflage" shoulder straps for "field", combat uniforms. For commanders of higher ranks, the colors were no longer so “protective”.

SS general uniform

On the uniforms of the SS at the highest command staff (generals) there are already golden-colored epaulettes on a blood-red backing, with symbols of silver color.

The shoulder straps of the “field” uniform are also changing, since there is no need for special disguise: instead of green on a black field for officers, generals wear thin gold signs. Shoulder straps become gold on a light background, with silver insignia (with the exception of the Reichsführer uniform with a modest thin black shoulder strap).

The insignia of the high command on shoulder straps and buttonholes, respectively:

• major general of the SS troops (brigadeführer in the Waffen SS) ─ gold embroidery without symbols, double oak leaf (until 1942) with a square, triple leaf after 1942 without an additional symbol;
• lieutenant general (gruppenfuehrer) ─ one square, triple oak leaf;
• full general (Obergruppenführer) ─ two “bumps” and an oak leaf shamrock (until 1942, the bottom sheet was thinner on the buttonhole, but there were two squares);
• Colonel General (Oberstgruppenführer) ─ three squares and a triple oak leaf with a symbol below (until 1942, the Colonel General also had a thin sheet at the bottom of the buttonhole, but with three squares).
• The Reichsführer (the closest, but not exact analogue ─ "NKVD People's Commissar" or "Field Marshal General") wore a thin silver epaulette with a silver trefoil on his uniform, and oak leaves surrounded by a bay leaf on a black background in his buttonhole.

As you can see, the SS generals neglected (with the exception of the Reich Minister) the protective color, however, in battles, with the exception of Sepp Dietrich, they had to participate less often.

Insignia of the Gestapo

In the SD security service, the Gestapo also wore SS uniforms, the ranks and insignia practically coincided with the ranks in the Waffen or the Allgemein SS.

The employees of the Gestapo (later also the RSHA) were distinguished by the absence of runes on their buttonholes, as well as the obligatory badge of the security service.

An interesting fact: in the great TV movie Lioznova, the viewer almost always sees Stirlitz in, although at the time of the spring of 1945, the black uniform almost everywhere in the SS was replaced by a dark green "parade" more convenient for front-line conditions.

Muller could walk in an exceptionally black tunic ─ both as a general and as an advanced high-ranking leader who rarely goes to the regions.

Camouflage

After the transformation of security detachments into combat units by decrees of 1937, samples of camouflage uniforms began to enter the elite combat units of the SS by 1938. It included:

• helmet cover;
• jacket
• face mask.

Camouflage capes (Zelltbahn) appeared later. Trousers (breeches) before the appearance of reversible overalls in the region of 1942-43 were from the usual field uniform.

The pattern itself on camouflage overalls could use many "small-spotted" forms:

• dotted;
• under oak (eichenlaub);
• palm (palmenmuster);
• plane leaves (platanen).

At the same time, camouflage jackets (and then reversible overalls) had almost the entire required range of colors:

• autumn;
• summer (spring);
• smoky (black-gray polka dots);
• winter;
• "desert" and others.

Initially, uniforms made of camouflage waterproof fabrics were supplied to the Verfugungstruppe (disposition troops). Later, camouflage became an integral part of the uniform of the SS "target" groups (Einsatzgruppen) of reconnaissance and sabotage detachments and units.

During the war years, the German leadership was creative in creating camouflage uniforms: the finds of the Italians (the first creators of camouflage) and the developments of the Americans and the British, which were among the trophies, were successfully borrowed.

Nevertheless, one should not underestimate the contribution of German scientists themselves and scientists collaborating with the Hitler regime to the development of such famous camouflage brands as

• ss beringt eichenlaubmuster;
• sseichplatanenmuster;
• ssleibermuster;
• sseichenlaubmuster.

Professors of physics (optics) who studied the effects of the passage of light rays through rain or foliage worked on the creation of these types of colors.
Soviet intelligence knew less about the SS-Leibermuster camouflage overalls than allied intelligence: it was used on the Western Front.

At the same time (according to American intelligence), yellow-green and black lines were applied to the tunic and crest with a special "light-absorbing" paint, which also reduced the level of radiation in the infrared spectrum.

The existence of such paint in 1944-1945 is still relatively little known, it has been suggested that it was a “light-absorbing” (of course, partially) black fabric, on which drawings were later applied.

In the 1956 Soviet film "In the 45th Square" you can see saboteurs in costumes most reminiscent of the SS-Leibermuster.

In a single copy, a sample of this military uniform is in the military museum in Prague. So, there can be no question of any mass tailoring of the uniform of this sample; such camouflage patterns were produced so little that now they are one of the most interesting and expensive rarities of the Second World War.

It is believed that it was these camouflages that gave impetus to American military thought to develop camouflage clothing for modern commandos and other special forces.

Camouflage "SS-Eich-Platanenmuster" was much more common on all fronts. Actually "Platanenmuster" ("woody") is found in pre-war photos. By 1942, “reverse” or “reversible” jackets of the “Eich-Platanenmuster” coloring were massively supplied to the SS troops ─ autumn camouflage on the front, spring colors on the back of the fabric.

Actually, this tricolor, with broken lines of "rain" or "branches" combat uniforms are most often found in films about the Second World War and the Great Patriotic War.

The "eichenlaubmuster" and "beringteichenlaubmuster" camouflage patterns (respectively "oakleaf type "A", oakleaf type "B") were widely popular in the Waffen SS in 1942-44.

However, for the most part, capes and raincoats were mainly made from them. And the soldiers of the special forces already independently (in many cases) sewed jackets and helmets from capes.

SS form today

Favorably aesthetically solved black form of the SS is still popular today. Unfortunately, most often not where it is really necessary to recreate authentic uniforms: not in Russian cinema.

A small “blunder” of Soviet cinema was mentioned above, but with Lioznova, the almost constant wearing of black uniforms by Stirlitz and other characters could be justified by the general concept of the “black and white” series. By the way, in the colorized version, Stirlitz appears a couple of times in the "green" "parade".

But in modern Russian films on the theme of the Great Patriotic War, horror drives with horror in terms of reliability:

• infamous 2012 film, I Serve the Soviet Union (about how the army fled, but political prisoners on western border defeated SS sabotage units) ─ we observe SS men in 1941, dressed in something in between "Beringtes Eichenlaubmuster" and even more modern digital camouflages;
• the sad picture “In June 41st” (2008) allows you to see SS men in full dress black uniform on the battlefield.

There are many similar examples, even the “anti-Soviet” joint Russian-German film of 2011 with Guskov “4 Days in May”, where the Nazis, in the 45th, are mostly dressed in camouflage from the first years of the war, is not spared from mistakes.

But the SS parade uniform enjoys well-deserved respect from reenactors. Of course, various extremist groups are also striving to pay tribute to the aesthetics of Nazism, and even those not recognized as such, such as relatively peaceful “Goths”.

Probably, the fact is that thanks to history, as well as the classic films "The Night Porter" by Cavani or "The Death of the Gods" by Visconti, the public has developed a "protest" perception of the aesthetics of the forces of evil. No wonder the leader of the "Sex Pistols" Sid Wishers often appeared in a T-shirt with a swastika, in the collection of fashion designer Jean-Louis Shearer in 1995, almost all toilets were ornamented with either imperial eagles or oak leaves.

The horrors of war are forgotten, but the feeling of protest against the bourgeois society remains almost the same - such a sad conclusion can be drawn from these facts. Another thing is the "camouflage" colors of fabrics created in Nazi Germany. They are aesthetic and comfortable. And therefore they are widely used not only for games of reenactors or works on household plots, but also by modern fashion couturiers in the world of big fashion.

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