Make the tiles at home. The process of making paving slabs at home. Vibrated paving slabs

Paving stones are a very popular building material. However, natural stone is quite expensive because it is difficult to process. Therefore, the natural mineral is often replaced with an artificial stone based on cement binders. Such material is often called simply paving slabs. You can buy it in many places, for example, the paving slabs manufacturer /mos-bruschatka.ru has an attractive price and good quality.

And you can make paving slabs with your own hands. It is so easy to make that almost everyone can do it, which some do, making tiles from artificial stone, including for sale.

To do this, you only need a room, such as a shed or garage, and a simple vibrating table. It is good to have the luxury of a concrete mixer, but a shovel and trough will work too. The initial raw material is cement, sand, plasticizer, and, if necessary, dye.

The most important additive in the formulation of paving slabs is a plasticizer. It has the following impact on the technological process and the quality of the final product:

Eliminates tile cracking when drying;

Increases plasticity and prevents delamination of the cement mixture;

Increases frost resistance and strength of finished tiles;

Gives the product some water-repellent properties.

In addition, plasticized mix can sometimes be handled without a vibrating table.

These additives are usually commercially available from companies specializing in the supply of raw materials for the production of reinforced concrete structures. The most famous brands of plasticizers for concrete are Superpalast C-3 or Chinese brands A, B or C. But instead of industrial preparations, some detergents are quite suitable. For example, cheap liquid soap sold in hardware stores in 5 liter canisters, powdered laundry soap, shampoo, or dishwashing liquid.

One of the following substances is often used, the amount is given per 12 kg of cement (bucket):

2 tbsp. l. (with a slide) of washing powder,

2 tbsp. l. liquid soap;

2 tsp dishwashing liquid.

Slaked lime works well as a plasticizer. Its proportions are selected approximately at the rate of 1 part to 6 parts of cement, but it is preferable to select the optimal ratio experimentally. This additive protects products from cracking, makes them smooth, even, resistant to sudden temperature changes. However, it should be noted that lime is incompatible with other types of plasticizers.

There are also semi-mystical additives, such as egg white, which were allegedly used by ancient builders in the construction of structures with special strength. Now this does not apply, but no one forbids experimenting if there is such a desire.

Forms for pouring paving slabs.

These can be purchased at the store. Here is the approximate durability of molds by the number of castings, depending on the material from which they are made:

Polyurethane - up to 100;

Plastic - up to 250;

Rubber - up to 500.

Note: despite its rapid wear, polyurethane is good because it is easy to mold, so designers who create their own products are most interested in it. And two-component polyurethane compounds are now not a problem to purchase. But do not forget that for casting a sufficient number of tiles, you will need more than a dozen of the same shapes, otherwise this process will take a very long time.

Before pouring the cement mixture, it is advisable to lubricate the molds so that the frozen casting can be pulled out more easily from them. A special emulsion for these purposes is found on the market, but it is easier to prepare it yourself in accordance with the following recipe:

3 liters of heated water;

A glass of engine oil or working off;

50-60 ml of liquid soap.

The well-mixed product is applied with a brush in a thin layer to the inner surface of the mold, trying to avoid puddles at the bottom of the mold.

Approximate recipes for paving slabs.

Components of the simplest solution:

Sand - 30 kg;

Plasticizer - 100 g;

Portland cement not lower than М-500 - 15 kg;

Water is about half the volume of cement.

Mortar using granite chips:

Portland cement not lower than М-500 - 10 kg;

Sand - 15 kg;

Small granite crushed stone - 15 kg;

Plasticizer - 100 g;

Water up to half of the volume of cement.

Fine gravel is fine instead of granite. In addition to these components, it is possible to add up to 1 kg / m3 of a solution of special reinforcing polyamide, basalt or glass fibers used in the manufacture of foam fiber concrete. Colored tiles are obtained by adding pigments, according to the instructions for a specific type of dye. To obtain a uniform color, the solution must be thoroughly mixed.

DIY paving slabs casting. Step-by-step instruction.

First, the molds are poured in half, then for 3-5 minutes they are compacted on a vibrating table. This is necessary so that the bottom - front side of the tile spills well, and there are no shells left on it from possible air bubbles. During the operation of the vibrating table, the solution is topped up to the top.

The poured forms are moved to a previously prepared flat surface, covered with a film and left for at least a couple of days. After hardening, the tiles are removed from the mold and stored for the next 10 days under a film. Further, in order for it to gain strength, it is kept outdoors for at least a month.

If you want to further increase the strength, the tiles are reinforced with an iron grating, placed in the mold before pouring. In addition, there is an iron-hardening process that increases the surface hardness, for which the not yet dried, but already hardened tile is sprinkled with dry Portland cement and rubbed evenly.

Manufacturing of paving slabs (paving stones), the whole process on the video.

Pleasure is not cheap, but everyone wants to make their yard clean and pretty, so I had such a great desire.

I could not buy the paving stones in the required quantity - it turned out to be too expensive, but to do it on my own is easy :) It is about how to make the paving stones on my own that I will tell you in this article, fully illustrating the manufacturing process.

Required materials and devices

To make such paving slabs, you need to buy a superplasticizer and, if desired, a dye.

In the store I bought several bags of 500 grade cement and a superplasticizer: it will increase the strength of the paving stone and increase its resistance to low temperatures.

Not a huge, of course, but quite a decent pile of sand, brought about a year ago from a local quarry, we have left after the completion of the house.

And I decided not to buy a colorant-dye. Honestly, as for me, the difference between colored and gray paving stones is small, the color still turns out to be a shade of gray!

As a vibrating table, without which the production of high-quality paving stones is simply impossible, it was decided to use an old Siemens washing machine, which has long served its life, but is still very working. If anyone does not know what a vibrating table is for, I explain - with its help, the maximum compaction of the forms of any concrete elements is achieved, in our case, paving stones, which become more homogeneous and, accordingly, strong.

I will tell you about forms separately and in more detail :)

About forms for self-production of paving stones

To make paving stones with their own hands or not, everyone decides for himself, and I can only say that it is exciting, not burdensome and profitable. I hope my little paving stone workshop will be useful to you, try it and show off your results!

The area covered with paving slabs or the paths lined with this material look very presentable. However, the cost of such a coating makes the owners of suburban areas think three times before choosing a finishing method. Therefore, in this article we will consider the process of self-production of such a coating. With this information, you can save on buying tiles.

How is paving slabs made?

In an industrial setting, the tile production process is organized using two technologies:

• Vibrocompression - filling a matrix with a working mixture while simultaneously applying pressure and vibration to it.
• Vibration casting - filling a mold with a mixture followed by vibration action.

In the first case, a particularly durable tile is obtained that can withstand any operational loads. In the second case, tiles of acceptable quality are obtained, but without extreme strength characteristics.

Moreover, the technology of vibrocompression involves the use of such expensive tools as a vibratory press and a drying chamber. The vibratory casting process requires the use of only a vibrating table that distributes the solution over the matrix and squeezes out air bubbles from the solidifying mass.

An experienced home craftsman can assemble a vibrating table from available tools, saving on equipment, and instead of a drying chamber, you can use a well-ventilated room. Therefore, in most cases, for the manufacture of tiles at home, it is precisely the vibratory casting process that will be discussed below in the text, along with a description of the structure of the vibrating table, is used.

Choosing sizes and making a shape

The production of paving slabs begins with the manufacture of a casting mold. However, before making the base for casting, you need to decide on the size of the tiles. Moreover, the optimal thickness of the finished product can be equal to both three and five centimeters.

It is more difficult to decide on the width and length, since too small tiles complicate the laying process, and large and heavy elements suffer from soil heaving deformation and force the use of professional vibration tables that can withstand significant weight loads.

Sizes and shapes

However, the optimal dimensions in width and length have long been known and are equal to 20 × 20 cm. Such tiles are easy to install - only 25 elements fit in a square meter, and its weight allows you to do all the work yourself, without attracting people from outside. In addition, it is much easier to assemble a square casting formwork than a triangle or hexagon.

For the manufacture of three formwork for tiles for garden paths, we need a nine-meter piece of wood with a section of 4 × 4 centimeters, a square meter of galvanized sheet and a roll of adhesive tape. Well, the process itself is as follows:

1. 1. We take two meter segments as they are, and the third one is cut into five bars of 20 cm each.
2. 2. We knock down a rectangle of 100 × 28 cm from two meter and two 20-centimeter segments (short bars are inserted between the long ones and fastened with nails at the end)
3. 3. We put the three remaining short bars inside the rectangle, placing them with a step of 20 centimeters.
4. 4. We wrap all the bars with duct tape, forming three or four layers that isolate the wood from moisture in the cement.
5. 5. Cut off a strip with dimensions of 100 × 28 cm from the galvanized sheet and fill it with the "ladder" obtained from the bars. So you can make the bottom of the mold and finally fasten the wooden blocks.
6. 6. We repeat all the above steps two more times, getting three forms.

With the help of one such base, it is possible to make four products up to 4 cm thick at once. Moreover, all three manufactured forms can be laid on a square meter of the vibrating table tabletop, having received 12 tiles with a total area of ​​0.48 "square". At home, this performance will be more than enough.

Preparing the mortar - the starting point for making tiles

To prepare a solution for pouring tiles, we do not need a classic sand-cement mixture 4: 1, but a slightly different composition, which will include the following components:

• Cement grade 400 or 500 (the latter is preferable to the first) - 1 part.
• Washed fine crushed stone with a grain size of 1.0-1.5 cm - 2 parts
• River sifted sand without clay and organic impurities - 1 part.
• Reinforcing fiber made of basalt or polypropylene fiber or chopped fiberglass - 1/1000 of the weight of cement.
• Plasticizer (substance that increases the strength of tiles) - up to 1/100 of the weight of cement.
• Pure water - from a quarter to a half of the mass of cement.

All of the above materials are loaded into a concrete mixer and mixed. In addition, a barrel and a construction mixer can be used to prepare the solution. In this case, water with a plasticizer previously diluted in it is added last.

Stirring the solution

The readiness of the mixture is checked with a trowel - the solution should drain, but not drip.

The volumes of the tile mortar are determined by the area of ​​the surface to be trimmed or by the number of tiles. The dimensions of one finished product are 20 × 20 × 4 cm, so the volume of one hand-made paving slab is 1600 cm3 or 1.6 liters. And for the manufacture of one square meter, we will need at least 40 liters of ready-made concrete.

Moreover, the solution should be prepared last, just before pouring the tiles. After all, the homogeneity of the finished mixture is maintained for 10-15 minutes and the pouring should be completed during this time.

Filling and subsequent processing of tiles

The process of manufacturing (pouring) paving slabs can be divided into five stages. At the first of them, the preparation of the mold is carried out - its inner surface is lubricated with a special composition that facilitates the extraction of the finished product. Moreover, such a composition can easily replace any oil - from sunflower to engine oil (including mining).

At the second stage, the solution is kneaded, and it is better to place the mixing container or concrete mixer near the vibrating table. This will help shorten the time in the next step, when the mixture of water, cement, sand, gravel and additives is transferred to the molds.

The third stage begins with the fact that the greased mold is placed on a vibrating table, covering at least 70 percent of its area. Otherwise, the manufacturing process will take a long time. Then, with a trowel or ladle, the solution is scooped out of a concrete mixer or container and poured into a mold. Moreover, in the process of pouring, the mass must be stitched. To do this, use a trowel by immersing the nose of the tool in the molded mold.

Some masters advise to put a reinforcing mesh made of steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm into the mold (before pouring). But if reinforcing fiber was used when mixing the solution, then the use of a mesh can be abandoned.

After filling the mold, a vibrating table is launched, which will squeeze out all air bubbles from the mass and seal the filling. In this case, the mass in the mold may settle, therefore, as it shrinks, the master will have to add a little concrete to each cell and continue vibration processing.

The fourth stage is devoted to drying products. I remove the molds from the table, put them on a flat surface and wrap them in plastic wrap. In dry weather, they will have to be moistened to compensate for the moisture deficit in hardening concrete. Moreover, the street temperature at this time should not drop below 10 degrees Celsius. Otherwise, the strength of the product will be clearly insufficient. In addition, the drying area will have to be protected from direct sunlight and rain, so a horizontal platform under a canopy would be the best option in this case.

At the fifth stage, the product is removed from the mold. Before this, the tile must lie in the film for at least a week. After removal, the products are folded under a canopy for another two weeks. However, the concrete casting does not gain 100 percent strength until the thirtieth day. After this time, it can be used as a finishing material, which is used to decorate areas in the courtyard and in the local area, as well as paths in the garden.

The extraction itself involves the following actions: an old blanket is sent out on a flat surface, the form is turned upside down and gently tapped with a mallet. The dried tiles easily come out of the nests and fall onto the soft surface. At the end, free molds should be placed in the sun and dried over the course of the day.

Assembling a homemade vibrating table - available tools help to save budget

To make the frame of a homemade vibrating table, we need 4 m of a corner with sides of 5 cm, 8 m of profile molding with sides of 25 × 25 millimeters, a steel 5-millimeter plate 1.2 meters long and wide.

As a source of vibration, we will use a sharpening machine for kitchen knives and other household cold weapons, on the shaft of which we will put a sharpening stone with a segment selected at half the radius. Moreover, to enhance the vibrations, four shock absorbers from the scooter will be used.

The very manufacture of a vibrating table begins with cutting blanks for assembling the base (frame). To do this, you need to cut the corner into four meter stands. Next, we cut eight meter sections of the profile pipe (four each for the top and bottom strapping).

The next step is to assemble one frame segment. To do this, you need to take two corners and weld two meter sections of a profile pipe between them. The first segment will be located flush with the end of the future legs (upper harness), and the second - at a distance of 20 centimeters from the free end. The second segment is assembled in the same way. Then these segments are connected with each other by the lower and upper crossbars, forming the frame of the vibrating table.

Next, you need to prepare the countertop. To do this, a sharpening machine is fixed in the center of the steel plate using screws or bolts inserted into the pre-drilled holes. Then the plate is installed on the table frame (sharpening machine down) and the location of the legs is marked on it using chalk (for this, you need to outline the angular conjugation in the area of ​​the upper strapping). After that, in the marked place, a 5-centimeter piece of pipe is welded, forming cups for the springs. The inner diameter of the pipe should be 2-3 millimeters larger than the dimensions of the shock absorber.

At the next stage, you need to fix four shock absorbers from the scooter in the corners of the bed and put a tabletop on them, placing the upper coils of the spring in the support cups. Finally, grinding wheels with the selected segments are put on the shafts of the sharpening machine and the start button is fixed.

After the plug of the machine tool is connected to the outlet, its shaft will begin to spin the cut circles, creating vibration, which will go to the tabletop and will be amplified by the springs (shock absorbers). The length of the latter can be selected based on the operating load, at which the tabletop cups should not touch the upper frame of the bed.

How to tint cement?

A standard set of components for paving slabs allows you to obtain products with high strength characteristics and zero aesthetic benefits. To eliminate this distortion, you will need a cement dye that changes the color of the finished tile.

The staining process itself involves two approaches. The first is the addition of pigment to the concrete at the stage of mixing the mortar. The second is a layer-by-layer filling, when 2/3 of the tile depth is made of gray mass, and the remaining volume is topped up with a colored composition.

Technically, they are implemented in approximately the same way - the pigment is dissolved in hot water, in a mass fraction equal to five percent of the total weight of the solution. Only in the first case, we need to paint over all the concrete, and in the second, only a third of the composition. Accordingly, all the advantages and disadvantages of the first and second methods emerge from this.

The advantage of the first method is that the entire tile is evenly stained, so that it will not change color as it wears out. But the plate painted in this way loses its strength characteristics. In addition, a limited palette of colors can be applied to the gray mass. And also painted over slabs cost significantly more than ordinary (gray) products.

Casting in layers is a different matter. In this case, the high strength of the base is preserved and the homeowner's money is saved - only a third of the volume of the tile gets under staining. In addition, the colored part of the fill can be mixed on the basis of not gray, but white concrete, which accepts any colors.

What is ceramic tile and what is it made of?

Ceramic tiles are fired clay plates. Most often they come in square and rectangular shapes, but they can be made in the form of a complex geometric mosaic. It can be used to decorate walls and floors both indoors and outdoors.

1. Durability is one of the most important qualities of floor tiles, which characterizes the resistance of the tiles to abrasion and the ability to maintain their appearance unchanged. There is a classification PEI includes five groups: PEI I - for walls in bathrooms, PEI II - for walls / floors in bedrooms, offices, bathrooms, PEI III fits in any living space and in small offices that do not have a direct entrance from streets, PEI IV is suitable for any living room, as well as for covering stairs, hallways, corridors, PEI V is used in both private and public interiors with above average traffic (offices, shops, cafes, restaurants). For places with heavy traffic (traffic), it is recommended to use unglazed porcelain stoneware (airports, train stations, shopping centers).
2. Water absorption is the ratio of the mass of water absorbed by the sample when it is completely immersed in water to the mass of dry matter. The ratio is expressed as a percentage. The water absorption of glazed ceramic floor tiles should not exceed 3%, while tiles with a water absorption of more than 10% can only be used on indoor walls. The water absorption of the tiles plays an important role in pool cladding. For this, it is necessary to use only special tiles, such as porcelain stoneware or clinker.
   
   
3. Frost resistance - the ability of tiles to resist temperature changes. The durability of ceramic tiles is determined by two parameters: the presence and the number of pores. Double-fired tiles are rather porous and therefore not frost resistant. A single-fired tile with a water absorption of less than 3% is considered frost-resistant. Porcelain stoneware, in contrast to ceramic tiles, has a minimum level of water absorption - less than 0.05%.
4. Cracking is the appearance of fine cracks in the enamel coating. This happens with low-quality or incorrectly selected tiles under the influence of sudden temperature changes. This defect is sometimes present on tiles prior to installation. When tiles crack some time after installation, improper tile installation can be the cause: use of poor mortar or glue, too thick or thin layer of these materials.
5. Slip resistance is a characteristic that determines the ability of a surface to prevent an object from sliding on it. This property is a basic requirement for the safety of residential and industrial premises, as well as for outdoor flooring. In baths, saunas and swimming pools, ribbed tiles with grooves are usually laid.
6. Chemical resistance is a characteristic of tile enamel, reflecting its ability to withstand contact with acids, salts, household chemicals at room temperature. It must resist the aggressive or mechanical effects of these substances, without undergoing external changes. The tiles can be protected by filling them with epoxies that are highly resistant to chemical attack.
7. Tone and caliber. Hue - the color saturation of the tile, which may slightly differ from the declared color. It is indicated on the package by a number or letter. Caliber - the actual size of the tile, which sometimes differs from the nominal by a couple of millimeters. The caliber is indicated on the packaging next to the nominal size. During production, tiles are sorted into batches of the same size and tone with the tolerance of the difference established by the standards.
   
   
8. Bending resistance. The higher it is, the lower the water absorption of the tile. Porcelain stoneware has a very high bending resistance, while porous tiles are lower.
9. Tensile strength is the level of possible load that the tile must withstand. It directly depends on its thickness. The ability to withstand loads is especially important for floor tiles. Such loads as the weight of a person or furniture, the tiled covering must be able to withstand easily and not break.
10. Surface hardness is a characteristic that expresses the ability of a surface to resist scratches and damage. Scratches are clearly visible on the shiny surface of the tile, while on the matte surface they are less noticeable.

Every person who has his own private home knows about cement and concrete production technology. Based on this, making paving slabs at home will not be an innovation for him.

Since there are several types of manufacturing, the vibration casting technique will be the most profitable and simpler for self-manufacturing. In this case, the solution is placed in molds and compacted on a special vibrating table.

Technology of home production of paving slabs

The technology for the production of paving slabs is very simple. But you need to know some points when planning the production process. To carry out the manufacturing process, you need to know 2 main directions:.

Vibropress scheme

They have some differences among themselves. Subsequently, this is reflected in the prepared products.

The technology for the manufacture of paving slabs at home by means of the purchase of an expensive aggregate, namely: a heat chamber and a vibration process.

The solution with water is poured into the mold, then compaction occurs using vibration and pressure. At the end of these procedures, the workpiece is sent to the drying chamber. The strength is obtained due to the rather high humidity and temperature, which is excellent for laying in places with a powerful load.

Making paving slabs with your own hands helps to tamp the mixture under vibration, that is, it spreads measuredly in shape and is compacted. The mold is moved to the racks for drying.

The workpiece is dried in molds

After two days, the finished tile is pulled out.

Vibration casting at home

For the production of paving slabs at home, vibration casting is suitable. This requires the purchase of inexpensive equipment and tools. As for the vibrating table, it is not difficult to build it yourself. To start making tiles, you need to follow these steps:

• preparation of molds;
• mixing the solution;
• shaping in a vibrating table;
• holding and drying in molds;
• stripping of tiles.

Paving slabs, which were manufactured using vibration technology, are excellent for garden paths. When it comes to a car park, it is best to use pressed products.

Pressed tiles are best used for installation in car dealerships.

Equipment and tools for the production of paving slabs

At the beginning of work, it is necessary to prepare equipment and tools. If a person can make a vibrating table on his own, then a vibropressing machine must be bought ready-made.

Then you need to choose a shape for the tile. According to the standard, it is a square or in the form of a brick. For this type, it is necessary to make the formwork from plywood or wood. If we consider the production of paving slabs at home as more complex options, then it is better to use polyurethane or silicone molds. With their help, the tile is obtained, as in a store. It is also possible to make tiles similar to natural stone.

Material for making

The basis of any technology is concrete. This requires the following components:

• water;
• cement;
• crushed stone;
• river sand;
• slaked lime or other plasticizer;
• additives and colors.

In order to end up with a homogeneous mass, you need to use additional tools: a concrete mixer or a construction mixer. The first tool is for large volumes.

Before preparing the concrete, you need to prepare the dye. It is required for making colored tiles. If the usual gray paving slabs are made, then you do not need to use the color scheme.

Manufacturing instruction

The walls of the concrete mixer must be slightly damp, so the inside is rinsed with water and then drained. The proportion of water and cement to obtain the required solution must be accurate, otherwise the concrete product will be fragile.

Proportions for the manufacture of paving slabs

Making paving slabs with your own hands requires mixing concrete half wet. This is done as follows: water must be 30% less than cement. For example, 3 buckets of cement are filled with 2 buckets of water.

Water is first added to the concrete mixer, and then the required amount of cement. After that, the components must be mixed and brought to a homogeneous mass. Screening is added, then a ready-made solution is obtained. After thorough mixing, slaked lime, previously well mixed, is poured in, as well as a dye, if necessary.

You need to stir until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Stirring the solution is easy to do by hand. This requires good physical fitness, as well as a margin of time.

So that later cleaning and stripping does not bring additional fuss and does not take time, it is necessary to lubricate the form with a special lubricant.

Be sure to grease the mold for further easy extraction.

The thickness of the layer must not be too large, as the product will deteriorate due to bubbles. For the successful implementation of the process, it is better to use aerosol lubricants.

A faster and better quality tile with your own hands is carried out if a person uses the help of another assistant. He will help you quickly bring the needed tool or thing.

As for the dye, it must be dissolved in hot water in advance.

You can make paving slabs at home without a vibrating table, only in this case the quality will not work.

After the forms are filled with the solution on the vibrating table, they must be removed and placed on the rack. Freezing takes place within 2 days. At the onset of heat, the forms need to be moistened with a spray in order to prevent the concrete from hardening prematurely.

The process ends with such a stage as stripping.

It occurs three days after pouring. Neatness must be present here, because the tile has not yet completely dried and has not gained sufficient strength.

To make the product as strong as possible, it is recommended to dip the molds in hot water with a temperature of 50 to 70 degrees. After 5 minutes, the paving slabs are removed, but before that you need to knock on them with a rubber mallet.

After the completion of the process, the tiles should dry and lie for another 7-8 days. For this, shrink wrap is intended.

The nuances of DIY tinting of paving stones

To paint the tiles, you must use organic or mineral pigments. Artificial colors have a fairly high coloring power, resistance to temperature extremes. Natural pigments can be used to create muted natural tones.

There are 2 tinting options:

• dilution of the dye in the wet mass;
• painting on the finished product.

Painting paving slabs

The first method will require a lot of money. The price of dry dyes, which have a water-repellent property, is quite high. And in order for the color to surpass all expectations, you will need to add 7% of the total mass of concrete.

The second way is more difficult. The quality of the painting depends only on the time. To make it easier for yourself, it is recommended to use a spray gun. This option has one drawback - it will be very difficult to obtain uniform coloring.

The form is filled with colored concrete, but only up to half. On top is ordinary cement. The time between fillings should not exceed 20 minutes.

Pros of paving slabs

At this point, paving slabs are in great demand. It has some advantages:

• vapor permeability and moisture permeability of the coating;
• implementation of the construction of paths by a more complex method on your own;
• the suitability of the repair;
• aesthetics. It appears thanks to all sorts of colors and shapes. If desired, the craftsmen can lay out an ornament or some kind of pattern on the path in the garden or cottage.

Laying schemes for paving slabs

Decorative tiles with stone

Paving stones in the landscape style of a private house looks quite interesting. The technique for making paving slabs at home is quite simple. The usual composition of the solution will help to build attractive country paths. It is often used in combination with natural materials.

To carry out the manufacture of decorative tiles with a stone, you should prepare forms of various sizes. Planks will help you make large squares, and plastic containers are great for miniature tiles. River stones must be thoroughly cleaned and all the necessary components must be prepared to prepare the mixture.

It is very important to observe the ratio, mixing sand with concrete, water and dye. After preparing the solution, you should take the form. It is required to lay out a horizontal platform of boards, put polyethylene under the formwork.

Thoroughly coat the form itself with machine oil. The mixture should be evenly distributed over the area of ​​the mold, a trowel will come in handy for this. Then stones are laid out, they must be selected in color and size, and then placed over the entire area of ​​the mixture. Upon completion, the stones must be added to the solution.

The molds are covered with cellophane and dried for 4 days. The workpieces must be sprinkled with water 2 times a day. At that moment, when the tile begins to move away from the formwork, it should be pulled out and dried already without a form.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is quite a fascinating process. With the help of precise guidance, each person can easily make high-quality and original tiles. It will serve for a long time in the garden or yard. If a person is not sure that the product will turn out to be durable during the manufacturing process, then the topic should be studied in more detail.

Video: DIY paving slabs