Why garlic rots in the garden: we save the harvest. Emergency garden help: why garlic rots in the garden and what to do about it? If garlic rots in the ground

There is a place for garlic in any garden. It, like onions, has bactericidal properties, from which it would follow that garlic should protect itself from ailments. However, it often turns out that this plant is also overcome by diseases that lead to rotting of the bulbs. Rotting also occurs for various reasons associated with violations of agricultural technology.

Possible Causes of Rotting Garlic

To grow healthy and large garlic, you must carefully and strictly follow all the rules of agricultural technology: water, but not very plentifully, feed, but on time and without fanaticism, carry out preventive work, ensure sufficient lighting, observe the correct crop rotation, etc. Causes of rotting garlic quite a lot right in the garden.

Diseases and pests

Garlic has a lot of pests, and diseases too. True, not all of them lead to rotting of the bulbs, but there are some. Apparently, various fungal infections are the main cause of rotting garlic in the garden. As a rule, they occur when the soil is excessively moist, including due to improper watering. The following are the most dangerous.

Fusarium wilt, which begins with the appearance of yellowness and various spots on the leaves, after which the leaves wither and dry. The root system begins to rot, the rot moves to the teeth. They become watery, a pinkish coating forms on the bottom and between the teeth.
With fusarium, teeth may not have time to form
Bacterial rot. As a rule, the effect of the disease manifests itself by the end of the growing season. First, brown spots appear on the teeth, then softened areas, the teeth become like glass. There is a distinct musty smell.
Bacterial rot develops in several stages, but quickly
White rot begins with yellowing and dying of feathers, while a cotton-like white mycelium appears on the roots. The teeth soften, become watery, rot.
"Wadding" on the bottom - a sign of white rot
Powdery mildew begins with yellowing and deformation of the leaves. Soon they are covered with a grayish coating, and the bulbs also rot at the same time.

Video: the most common cause of rotting garlic

Among the pests that lead to the decay of garlic, the most dangerous are:

Waterlogging of the soil

With excessive moisture, the effect of diseases increases dramatically, but waterlogging can lead to rotting of garlic in and of itself. Garlic requires moderately moist soil, but when watering, you need to know when to stop. Watering the beds should not be about a month before harvesting, and before that, in no case should even short-term stagnation of moisture be allowed. You should be especially careful on heavy clay soils, where in the case of heavy rains you often even have to specially cover the garden bed with some kind of "umbrella".

Too much nitrogen fertilizer

Garlic should be planted in well-fertilized soil, which is seasoned before planting with both organic and mineral fertilizers. But a significant consumption of nitrogen is typical for him only at the very beginning of feather growth. In the process of growth and maturation of the bulbs, garlic almost does not need nitrogen, and if a lot of it is added, especially in the form of nitrates, it can provoke rotting of the bulbs. Therefore, in no case should you put fresh and not even completely rotted manure in the garlic bed. They use compost or good humus, and it is better not to report than to take more of it than necessary.

While unripe fragments are visible in the manure, it is unacceptable to use it for garlic.

The right choice of seed

It should be borne in mind that planting material (both cloves and air bulbs, the so-called bulbs) can be infected. Therefore, before planting, they should be disinfected. Teeth that have the slightest signs of damage (rotting, mold, just mechanical damage) are immediately rejected.

It is better not to take planting material from your garden at all, if last season there were any problems with growing garlic, and even more so, there was a significant rotting of plants.

There are many options for neutralizing cloves and bulbs before planting, but most often they are soaked in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for half a day or in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per bucket of water) for several minutes. Somewhat more reliable, but more expensive is the use of modern fungicides, for example, Fitosporin, which are used according to the instructions.

The right choice of landing site

Pathogens or pests that cause garlic to rot can also be found in the soil. In this regard, 1-2 days before planting, the finished bed should be shed with boiling water or a pinkish solution of potassium permanganate. But in advance you should choose the right place for the garden. It is desirable that it be sunny (shading for several hours is possible) and not low-lying (so that excess water does not accumulate). Clay soils are corrected by adding a sufficient amount of sand, acidic soils are limed. The soil should be light, breathable, neutral in acidity.

It is very important to observe the rules of crop rotation: they are aimed, among other things, at eliminating the possibility of accumulation of pests and pathogens. Almost no crop is grown two years in a row in the same place, and garlic is no exception. You can not plant it after any bulbous plants, at least for three years. Optimal predecessors are cucumbers, peas, potatoes.

There are many options for proper crop rotation.

Measures to prevent garlic rot

The measures necessary to prevent garlic rotting stem from the existing causes of rotting. Preventive work is as follows.

Compliance with the rules of crop rotation.
The right choice of place for the garden.
Thorough cleaning of crop residues after harvesting the previous crop.
Use of non-infected planting material, its preplant disinfection.
Periodic replacement of teeth with air bulbs.
Moderate watering and obligatory loosening of the soil, weed control.
Limitation of nitrogen fertilizers.

If rotting plants are found, they should be ruthlessly removed, and the ground should be shed with Fundazol or Bordeaux liquid.

Video: how to prevent rotting garlic

Growing garlic is not very difficult, but there are problems with it. As a rule, rotting of garlic in the garden occurs when agricultural practices are not followed, including when watering is immoderate. It is possible to avoid an unpleasant phenomenon, but it is much more difficult to deal with the diseases that have arisen.

Summer has just begun, and the tips of the garlic leaves began to turn yellow, why this happens, if it is still far from harvesting the garlic, let's look at our article.

In winter garlic, the leaves may turn yellow in the spring if it was planted too early before winter. Try to plant winter garlic after October 15, then the sprouts will not have time to hatch.

Garlic can turn yellow after spring frosts, you can help it by spraying with an antidepressant, such as Zircon. Treatments with this drug should be carried out until the plants recover, every 5-7 days (1 ml per 10 liters of water).

Yellowing garlic can cause a lack of moisture. In this case, we increase the watering of garlic and loosen the aisles, giving air to the roots.

Onion flies can cause yellowing of garlic. She is not afraid of the pungent smell of the plant itself, and you can scare it away if you sprinkle the bed with a mixture of tobacco dust and wood ash. Sow carrots on a garlic bed, the onion fly does not like it.

Garlic can turn yellow under the influence of a fungal disease in which the roots rot. It is possible to avoid this if you soak garlic cloves in potassium permanganate before planting, or Maxim preparation.

Lack of nitrogen also causes garlic leaves to turn yellow, always apply nitrogen fertilizer in the spring when loosening the beds. You can now feed the garlic with urea (1 tbsp for 10 liters of water). Any top dressing of garlic ends at the end of June!

Garlic turns yellow in the garden and with a lack of potassium. Therefore, potash fertilizer, such as potassium sulfate, must be applied to the soil.

Lack of magnesium is also the reason why garlic turns yellow. Magnesium-rich fertilizers such as potassium magnesia, dolomite flour (applied for digging in the fall).

Folk advice on what to do if the garlic turns yellow:

urea or mullein helps with a lack of nitrogen;
2 cups of ash should be poured with boiling water, insist and pour garlic;
pour the garlic with a salt solution, take 1 tbsp in a bucket of water;
use a weak solution of potassium permanganate for irrigation.

Why garlic leaves turn yellow, what to do, we hope you have learned. To reduce the risk of developing garlic diseases, be sure to prevent cloves before planting it. High yields!

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Garlic leaves turn yellow - this is not news for an avid gardener. Deal with the problem realistically. How to water the garlic so that the leaves do not turn yellow, how to restore the plant without losing the crop, you will learn from today's article. If the question is relevant, keep reading.

Why does garlic turn yellow?

Garlic leaves turn yellow for several reasons:

Yellowing in early spring due to frost (winter);
Fungal infections;
Mold on the roots

The three listed reasons why garlic leaves turned yellow appear when the temperature drops, the air humidity rises, the use of contaminated soil, and excessive watering. Manifestations are typical for the early spring period.

How to water garlic so that the leaves do not turn yellow in spring?

In order to prevent the appearance of yellow leaves on garlic or to cure an already manifested disease, you need to know how to process it.

You can water the garlic so that the leaves do not turn yellow:

"NV-101"
"Epin"
"Zircon"

Garlic can be watered with any root growth stimulator if you know that frosts are coming or you have already seen a light white frost on the beds. The same is true for the processing of garlic, whose root system is covered with mold.

We turn to the main block, than pour the garlic so that the leaves do not turn yellow. Mineral fertilizers are often used to process and maintain garlic in a normal state.

Mineral fertilizers for garlic:

Urea (urea)
Fertik Lux
potassium sulfate

Fertilizers are diluted with water in a ratio of 1 tbsp. l. per 1 liter of water and water the aisles or tree trunks.

Foliar top dressing for the treatment of garlic from yellowed leaves is also effective. As a foliar top dressing, potassium sulfate is just right.

Recipe for foliar feeding based on potassium sulfate:

Dilute 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate in 1 liter of water.
Take a pollinator with a fine spray.
Pour in the solution.
Process in the evening in dry weather.
Droplets should fall on the leaves and not dry in the wind, but be absorbed.

Pests on garlic and yellow leaves

If a stem (onion) nematode has settled on the onion), it is necessary to treat the planted onion with acidic components. The nematode does not like acidified soil. At the planting stage, it is recommended to douse garlic cloves with hot water, then dip in a solution of table salt.

To prevent garlic bulb damage, it is necessary to plant marigolds or marigolds (calendula) next to the onion beds - they will be useful not only for decorating a garden or summer cottage, but also for personal purposes, for example, preparing useful solutions.

Summing up

To restore yellowed onion leaves, we treat with insecticides, feed with mineral fertilizers, monitor the temperature of air, soil and moisture levels.

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Video: Garlic leaves turn yellow, what to do?

Many people know that garlic has antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects.

Useful properties of garlic

But this ancient medicinal plant is also a good anti-sclerotic agent, and can also replace drugs used to lower blood pressure, cholesterol levels and prevent the formation of atheromatous plaques in the aorta.

It also stimulates the secretion of the gastrointestinal tract. During flu epidemics, garlic is an indispensable tool: in the evening, during dinner, it is useful to eat a couple of teeth every day. In kindergartens, teachers are asking parents to put a large clove of garlic on a thick thread in the top pocket of a child's shirt or hang around the child's neck in order to prevent the spread of the virus. But still it is more convenient to put the garlic in a saucer on the windowsill of the children's room.

We grow ourselves

The cost of garlic is quite high compared to other vegetables. Therefore, you can grow it yourself. The most important thing for this crop is watering the beds with the right regularity and in the right amount.

A large amount of standing water in the garden can harm the garlic. This is expressed in a change in the color of the trunk and leaves. How to pour garlic so that it does not turn yellow? What to feed? Due to the fact that garlic is spring (planted in spring) and winter (planted in winter, more productive), top dressing and watering vary. Organic fertilizers and compost are best applied in the fall, and manure and diluted in water at the right concentration can be added to loosened soil during summer top dressing. The first (spring) dressing is (potassium or urea) - 1 tbsp. spoon per 10 liters of water, 2-3 liters of solution per square meter of beds. After 15 days, we feed with nitroammophos: for 10 liters we double all volumes and footage. Remembering these numbers is not difficult, so the problem of "how to water the garlic so that it does not turn yellow" ceases to be such for you.

Onion is a friend of garlic

Yellowing of the leaves in early May is also observed when growing onions. The reason for this for both crops may be insufficient warming of the soil, despite the warm atmospheric air.

And a new question arises before you: "How to water the onion so that it does not turn yellow?" First of all, it is useful to sprinkle a bed with onions (and garlic too) with wood ash. Slurry diluted with water (18 degrees, in a ratio of 1:6) will also not interfere with the onion if the bed is not waterlogged. The latter can cause yellowing of the leaves of onions and garlic, along with a disease such as fusarium. How to water the garlic so that it does not turn yellow, those who have repeatedly grown it and harvested it, watching the results, know.

From their own experience, they could be convinced that garlic loves fertile land very much. Acidic soil, which this root crop does not like, is diluted with lime or a couple of months before planting. After doing such manipulations on your garden bed, you will definitely get a good harvest and you will always know how to water the garlic so that it does not turn yellow.

Yellowed feathers of winter garlic in the garden can greatly spoil not only the mood, but also the future harvest. It is necessary to figure out as soon as possible why the garlic began to turn yellow in the spring and what to do to save the situation.

A careful examination of the plantings and one plant pulled out of the ground, a small analysis of the external conditions of growth will help to quickly determine the cause of the discoloration of the stems and choose the right tactics of action.

The sooner the yellowing of garlic leaves is noticed in the spring and the correct measures are taken, the faster the plant will recover. Having decided on the factors that influenced the color of the stems, you need to try to eliminate them as soon as possible.

Dealing with the effects of the weather

With an insufficient amount of spring rains, garlic shoots that have appeared must be watered. This should be done no more than once a week. Excess moisture for the bulbs is completely useless.

After their application, the garlic will recover faster from the stress caused by frosts and begin to develop properly:

Get rid of pests and diseases

Effective means of getting rid of the stem onion nematode in the spring do not currently exist. Infected bulbs will have to be destroyed. Next year, for planting onions and garlic, you should choose other beds, and plant calendula and marigolds in this place in the garden. The juice of these flowers is the most effective poison for the nematode. You will also have to get rid of garlic affected by fungi and mold.

In the fight against onion fly larvae, which have a detrimental effect on crop production, fungicides are used:

Folk remedies - time-tested experience

An effective way to combat the onion fly in the spring is to water the seedlings of garlic with saline. In a 10 liter bucket, you need to dissolve 200 grams of usually table salt. After treatment with saline, the beds must be watered with clean water.

In the summer, ash and tobacco dust help well against pests. They are sprinkled in the aisles or use a settled aqueous solution of ash for irrigation. For one bucket of boiling water, 1 kg of ash is taken. The resulting mixture is infused for 3 days, and then thoroughly mixed before watering.

Restoring nutrient deficiencies in the spring

Spring top dressing of winter garlic will be a great help in getting a big harvest. You can use granular mineral preparations or their aqueous solution.

In the first case, the ground between the beds needs to be loosened, make small indentations and pour fertilizer in a thin layer. After that, the crops must be watered abundantly and mulched with compost or dry earth.

An aqueous solution, unlike dry fertilizer, immediately enters the roots of plants.

Mineral fertilizers are dissolved in water according to the instructions and garlic plantings are watered with this infusion:

Measures to prevent yellowing of winter garlic feathers

Any negative changes are always easier to prevent than to get rid of their consequences.

To make winter garlic delight with lush greenery all spring, follow the rules for planting and caring for the crop:

Observe crop rotation and try not to plant garlic two years in a row in the same place or after other bulbous plants.
Before planting, healthy clean cloves should be soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, 3% saline solution or a solution of Maxim or Fitosporin preparations.
Before planting, shed the beds with boiling water, treat acidic soils with lime or dolomite flour.
In the middle lane, winter garlic should be planted in mid-October, and in the southern regions - at the end of November, then by the beginning of cold weather the plant will get stronger, but will not have time to germinate.
The optimal planting depth is 4-5 cm.
In the garden, the best neighbor of garlic will be carrots or calendula poisonous to pests, marigolds (marigolds), mint.
In early spring, after the appearance of the first green shoots, cover the plantings with any covering material, then they will not be afraid of night frosts.

A competent approach to growing, based on many years of knowledge of experienced gardeners and gardeners, is the key to getting a good harvest of tasty and healthy winter garlic.

It is difficult to imagine a personal plot without a bed of garlic. For many years, people have been eating garlic, effectively using it as a medicine, and no plant can replace its unique properties.

However, to get a good harvest, it is not enough just to plant garlic cloves in the ground. Even despite the fact that garlic is unpretentious in cultivation, its greens can hurt and turn yellow, which negatively affects the growth of the head.

Garlic is a vegetable popular in almost all cuisines of the world. This is easily explained by its specific bright taste and composition rich in useful substances. It is eaten raw, seasoned with meat, salads and more. You can eat not only onions, but also garlic leaves. Therefore, it is a pity if they turn yellow, dry out and die. One of the first reasons for this trouble is problems when sowing garlic.

How to water winter garlic so that it does not turn yellow

A fairly common cause of yellowing of plant feathers in spring is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, especially for winter varieties that are planted in November-December. Moreover, such fertilizer is usually not applied in the fall, since it is washed out of the soil until spring. Therefore, if you are faced with the task of how to water, if the winter garlic turns yellow, then fertilizing with nitrogenous fertilizer or humus diluted in water can be a good solution.

Top dressing of winter garlic in spring

Top dressing of winter garlic in the spring is repeated three times:

The first time it is carried out a week after the snow melts. The first feeding at this time serves as a stimulator for the growth of the green mass of the plant. It is permissible to add urea or urea to the composition of the top dressing.

The time of the second feeding is 14 days after the first. Now winter garlic needs to be fed with phosphorus and potassium, because it is time for the head to form. These components do not decompose quickly, so fertilizers for winter garlic are applied in advance in the form of a solution.

The third time they feed winter garlic in early June. This is not quite an early spring, but this top dressing is considered the third spring. Now it is important to ensure that the plant does not receive nitrogen. Otherwise, shooting will begin, and the culture will not form large heads. It is good to feed the winter plant in the spring with ash as a potash fertilizer. And they do it during the third feeding.

When is the best time to plant garlic in spring or autumn?

Most experienced gardeners do just that, because only winter garlic will have a high yield. If you didn't manage to plant it in the fall, you still have a chance to do it in early spring. Of course, the spring harvest of garlic is different from the winter. But this is not the main thing, because with the onset of spring you will have a lot of work in the garden, and, as always, there is not enough time for everything. That is why it is advisable not to postpone this part of the work for the spring, but it is best to plant garlic in the fall.

When to plant winter garlic in the ground

The practice of planting garlic in the first ten days of November is dangerous, especially in years with early and cold winters, when a significant part of the cloves die without having time to take root.

If part of the winter garlic is not planted in the fall and the bulbs are well preserved, it can be planted in the spring. The success of cultivation depends both on the properties of the variety or local form, as well as on the storage temperature and planting dates.

Most winter varieties in the case of spring planting form a single-tooth bulb. Some form a bulb divided into teeth, but smaller, as in autumn planting, and a single tooth. More bulbs differentiated into cloves are obtained in case of cold storage with temperatures from -5 to + 4 °C and the earliest planting.

Delayed planting leads to mass formation of single cloves, and storage during the winter at room temperature can cause plants to grow until late autumn, but usually without the formation of bulbs.

Do I need to soak garlic before planting?

Soaking garlic for planting in the fall should not be. Such a procedure is intended for the speedy germination of the plant, and garlic for the winter does not need it at all and will only harm or cause the entire crop to simply freeze. In autumn, the soil is quite wet and this is enough for the garlic to have roots.

With planting garlic in the fall, it is better, of course, not to delay. It is worth planting in early autumn, and it is better to plant large heads.

But as for the soaking of garlic (cloves of garlic) before planting, it is better to carry out this procedure in order to avoid rot and unwanted diseases.

Pests and diseases of garlic are another reason for its yellowing.

Speaking about pests and diseases that cause the appearance of yellow leaves on many varieties of garlic, one cannot fail to mention the following:

Fusarium is a fungal disease that develops due to excess moisture at a fairly high air temperature, dense soil and lack of plant nutrition; downy mildew - a disease that affects plants grown in conditions of high humidity and relatively high air temperature; onion fly - a pest that infects garlic leaves; stem nematode - a pest worm that can live in the soil for a long time and lays eggs inside the plant.

Freezing winter garlic

The reasons. Occurs in the spring with return spring frosts. Shoots of garlic well withstand a short-term drop in temperature to -2−3°C. If the frosts are strong and prolonged, then the leaves freeze slightly. In addition, garlic is very sensitive to sudden changes in temperature. The tops can freeze when the difference between day and night temperatures is more than 14-15 ° C. Frosts damage plants in the germination phase and at the initial stage of leaf regrowth.

Signs of damage. The leaves turn yellow, lose elasticity, droop. If the stem is frozen by frost, it acquires a yellow-green color, the outer tissues, together with the lower leaves, gradually dry out.

Preparations for the immunity of garlic

Having considered all the reasons and decided why garlic leaves turn yellow in the spring, what to do in this case can be assumed - to understand the immunity of the plant, to help it adapt after an unsuccessful wintering.

Preparations of organic farming have long proven themselves from the best side, and by applying "Ekoberin" or "NV-101" you can restore the ecological balance and immunity of the plant.

Having dissolved the funds in water, according to the instructions for the preparations, the garden bed can be both watered and sprayed.

Prevention of yellow garlic

Prevention of garlic diseases is a properly designed crop rotation. The culture is planted in the old place no earlier than after 3 years. During this time, the spores of bacteria and fungi in the soil lose their harmfulness.

Another prevention of chlorosis is the correct agricultural technology, because serious violations can become the cause of yellowing:

Shallow landing, leading to freezing. Feathers do not turn yellow from the ends, but grow back chlorotic.

Premature landing. Early planted spring garlic falls under spring frosts. Winter varieties in the middle lane are planted no earlier than October, trying to guess the planting time so that the clove has time to take root in the soil, but does not throw out the leaves.

Soil acidification. Alliums prefer a neutral PH. In too acidic soils, it is necessary to add deoxidizers - lime, ash, dolomite, chalk, eggshells, cement.

Cultures growing underground are often susceptible to the pathogenic influence of various molds. It is important to recognize and stop the disease in time.

Signs of defeat

It is difficult to determine the defeat of fruits in the ground, but it is possible by some symptoms:

when the head of garlic rots, the foliage immediately begins to deteriorate, and the upper stems turn yellow and dry out;
the appearance of spotted rust signals the presence of an infectious disease;
if you dig up the garlic, the head breaks into cloves;
the appearance of blue, pink and gray spots on the heads indicates the occurrence of mold;
the presence of green at the base near the ground is a symptom of a fungal infection;
if there is mold on the bush and the leaves are gradually dying, this is a sign of sclerotinia (white rot).

Sources of infection

The main organisms that affect onions and garlic are fungi. They live in the soil for a long time, which becomes a source of diseases. If crops are planted in contaminated soil, after a while the fungal infection will begin to progress, and the plants will rot.

Garlic is often affected by the following fungal infections:

Botrytis allii Munn causing neck rot. This is a disease that affects onions and garlic during storage, although the microorganism clings to the head while still in the ground.
Fusarium. Causes Fusarium, which most often "eats" the root system during a drought.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum causes sclerotinia. It, like other pathologies, affects the cloves, between which mold starts.
Onion yellow dwarf virus causes yellow dwarfism. The first symptoms are the appearance of red stripes on the leaves. It spreads through aphids that eat the crop.

The cause of the disease in the garden can be fruits or infected seeds.

Fusarium rot control measures

Fusarium rot is a fungal disease that affects the root part of crops - garlic, wheat, cucumbers. The causative agents of the disease are fungi of the Fusarium type.

The main causes of rotting garlic in the soil

The first sign that something is wrong with the underground part of the spice is. This factor should alert the owner of the garden. Most gardeners are looking for the cause in the flood of soil or late planting, but it is important to check the condition of the head of garlic. This phenomenon can be the cause of infection of the bulb with fungal diseases, which are primarily manifested by yellowing of the foliage. Among the most common diseases are the following diseases:

Problem Solving Methods

The main causes of most diseases are dampness and warm weather. Therefore, waterlogging of the soil should be avoided as much as possible. As a preventive measure for rotting, the following aspects should be observed:

Only compliance with the rules of planting, watering and fertilizing will allow you to grow a high-quality crop of irreplaceable spices on your own plot.

Rotting garlic can begin after harvesting, as well as during the cultivation of vegetables in the beds. Why does garlic rot? - Let's consider this question further.

Determine the onset of the disease

In which cases garlic rots, and when is it necessary to sound the alarm about the beginning of the process of decay? Often a sign of the onset of rotting garlic in the garden is prematurely yellowed tops. However, gardeners rarely pay attention to this feature. Therefore, the use of fungicides (drugs that prevent decay) comes late.

Early yellowing tops of garlic can also be a sign of potassium deficiency in the soil, so attention to this factor is not given in due measure. The main reason for garlic rotting in the garden is unfavorable and damp weather conditions. Their result is the appearance and development of fungal infections in the area of \u200b\u200bgarlic growth.

Why does garlic rot?

If a rotting garlic in the garden this may be due to several reasons. It is very difficult to establish such reasons only by describing the appearance of garlic. The most common garlic diseases that can cause garlic rot are bacterial, white rot on the bottom of the garlic, or fusarium.

Fusarium of garlic is one of the reasons why garlic rots. This disease develops when garlic is grown at high humidity in combination with high temperature. Excessive watering of garlic can lead to the development of fusarium. The development of the disease begins from the bottom (from the bottom of the garlic), and the onset of Fusarium occurs at the time of cultivation.

When garlic is still in the garden, yellowing of the tops and its drying begins earlier than usual (these processes begin from the top of the tops). In the process of Fusarium development, the garlic cloves become too soft and yellowish in color. The root system of garlic dies off, as a result of which the plants affected by Fusarium are easily removed from the soil. Fusarium is transmitted to healthy garlic through the soil or infected planting material.

Bacterial diseases of garlic can also cause garlic to rot. Is this the main reason why garlic rots after harvesting?

Bacterial ailments affect garlic exclusively during storage, in the process of their development, garlic tissues change and begin to rot, become glassy. The formation of bottom rot or local bacterial ulcers is observed (they form under the hard garlic scales).

White rot of the bottom - develops during the cultivation of garlic and during its winter storage. The main reason for the occurrence is excessive watering or soil moisture in combination with low temperature indicators (up to 20 degrees).

Garlic tops begin to turn yellow early, and yellowing begins from the top of the leaves. Subsequently, the garlic leaves die off. The roots of garlic are covered with a white coating (mycelium) and gradually die off. The garlic cloves themselves become watery and begin to rot.

How to prevent garlic rot?

If the garlic rots, then nothing can be done. It is advisable to immediately get rid of rotten teeth, and healthy garlic must be completely peeled, then pour vegetable oil. This preservation method does not last long, so you can take salting healthy garlic as a basis.

To do this, healthy garlic cloves also need to be cleaned and completely rid of decaying areas. Then put in a clean container and sprinkle with salt. You can store garlic this way in the refrigerator, but you also need to use it quickly.

Rotting garlic is best prevented. To do this, it is necessary to use pickling garlic before planting in the ground (this procedure is done using a suspension of foundationol). Garlic must be immersed in the solution for five minutes, then dried and planted in the soil. Effective in the prevention of garlic rot and Fitosporin. This solution, after preparation, is used for soaking garlic cloves, as well as for spraying beds before sowing it.

With Fusarium, all diseased garlic cloves must be discarded and not allowed to be re-sown. It is also necessary to follow the rules of crop rotation during planting garlic. Do not place garlic next to potatoes, which provoke the development of fusarium. Also, you can not place garlic on the same bed every season. Change the place of sowing garlic.

Do not use infected or diseased garlic cloves as planting material and then you will be able to avoid searching for answers to the question “why does garlic rot”?

If your planting material is infected with bacterial diseases or garlic rot viruses, do not let it into the garden, get healthy garlic sets, then your harvest will be excellent and healthy.