How and on what to glue mosaic tiles. How to lay mosaic on walls and floors: tile installation guide, tips and rules. Dispersion adhesives

Having chosen mosaic tiles as a decorative coating, you need to decide which glue is best for mosaics. The range in this area is very large. The choice will depend on the material of the mosaic used and the type of surface to which it will be attached. The location and operating conditions of the tiles are also important. With the right adhesive, the coating will last for many years without the need for restoration.

There are several types, depending on the composition of the adhesive. Each has its own advantages and features. The main criterion, of course, is quality. But under certain conditions, even cheap material can be used without fear of its unreliability.

cement

This is the most common composition on which any tile can be glued. It is produced in dry form, and before use it is diluted with water or latex according to the instructions. Latex is used when it is necessary to increase elasticity. Rigid cement adhesive has a low price, and if there is no need for additional properties, its use would be quite appropriate.

Some cement compositions may initially have a high degree of deformability. Such adhesives are used with constant changes in temperature, vibration or high humidity at the location of the surface to be lined. Its use is appropriate when applied to or from the outside of the building (subject to weather conditions).

The color will depend on the cement used in the composition - there is white and gray mosaic glue. If the substance is not noticeable after application, you can choose the usual composition of a dark color.

Dispersive

This is a one-component adhesive that is extremely easy to use. There is no need to breed it or carry out other preparatory work for use. The remains of the substance can be stored until the next time in a tightly closed container.

Dispersion types of glue are waterproof, suitable for rooms with high humidity. The product has a small consumption. The price is higher than for cement compositions, but due to its properties, the product justifies this fact.

Reactive

Such glue consists of two components - a base and a hardener. When mixed, the reagents enter into a chemical reaction and form a high-quality adhesive mixture. It is made on a polyurethane and epoxy basis. The composition has excellent deformability, suitable for adverse environmental conditions - temperature extremes, high humidity, vibration.

Advice! With the help of reactive adhesive, it is possible to carry out facing work inside and outside the building. Not having water in its composition, it is used when gluing materials that are highly sensitive to it.

Composition selection

There are several basic parameters that should be taken into account when choosing a mosaic adhesive. It is necessary to take into account the material from which the mosaic tiles are made, the nature of the surface to be faced, as well as the operating conditions. Before gluing the mosaic, it is necessary to correctly determine the adhesive composition that is suitable in each specific case.

By type of mosaic

There are three main types of mosaic - glass, ceramic and stone. Each material has its own characteristics:

1. Glass mosaic. The first thing to consider is the aesthetic side. Transparent or translucent tiles may lose their appearance when the selected adhesive is gray, as it will show through it. If the adhesive for the mosaic is white, the color of the mosaic itself will not be lost and will not change shade. You can use both a composition based on white cement, and any other - polyurethane or ready-made, water-based.
2. Ceramic mosaic. Unpretentious look. You can use any tile adhesive, based on the type of surface on which the mosaic will be attached.
3. Mosaic made of natural stone. Some types of stones from which mosaic tiles are made can change color when exposed to water. When using such materials, epoxy or polyurethane compounds are suitable, since they do not contain water. And you can also use a quick-hardening adhesive, this will reduce the interaction of the tile with water during setting.

According to the nature of the foundation

There may be several surface options that determine the adhesive for mosaic tiles:

• if the base is even, undeformed, absorbing water, any tile adhesive will do; unpretentious in this regard are cement screed, concrete slab, brick.
• on a deformed surface, it is imperative to use elastic glue, otherwise the tile may fall out in places when it dries.
• if the surface is water-repellent, reactive or quick-drying compounds are suitable.

An important role is played by operating conditions - a humid or aggressive environment, temperature changes or frequent vibrations. In these cases, epoxy is used and or latex is added to the cement composition to increase elasticity.

Important! When lining the interior of the pool with mosaics, a water-repellent adhesive with an adhesion of at least 2.5 MPa is used. Upon completion of work, it is necessary to wait at least 20 days (!) Before filling the tank with water.

Manufacturing process

Knowing how to glue the mosaic correctly, you can avoid problems during operation. For convenience, it is better to use mosaic tiles on a grid or paper backing. In this case, gluing occurs in small blocks.

It is important to follow the instructions step by step:

1. Prepare the surface. It is necessary to level it as much as possible, clean it from dirt and old building material.
2. Apply glue with a spatula in an even layer, then draw with a comb. The size of the teeth should not exceed half the thickness of the tile. When using a glass mosaic, you can also smear its base so that no defects are visible through the gap.
3. Carefully attach the tile to the wall. If a mosaic is used in the form of blocks on a grid or on a substrate, it is important to make the distance between the sections equal to the distance between the chips of the block.
4. It is necessary to press the mosaic with a spatula, moving diagonally. It is necessary to prevent the displacement of individual elements. You can lightly tap on the tile to level it.
5. In the process, clean off excess glue with a spatula, otherwise it will be difficult to remove them later.
6. Rub the seams with special material. It is not recommended to use glue for this purpose (except when provided by the manufacturer).
7. After 20-30 minutes, remove excess grout with a damp sponge.

The right choice of adhesive for mosaics is the key to a long service life of the facing coating without the need for repairs in the future. Reactive adhesives are versatile and can be used on all materials. However, they are more expensive than others, so there is no point in using them unnecessarily. If you take into account all the features and follow the gluing technology, you can get a high-quality decorated coating without extra costs and effort.

The walls of the house, decorated with mosaics, have always been considered a sign of wealth and good taste. But if earlier, in order to decorate your home, an experienced craftsman was required, who laid out intricate patterns for months on end, today almost everyone can do such an operation with their own hands. So, the topic of the new article is devoted to the question of how to glue the mosaic on the wall.

To get a good result, it is not enough to understand only the process of laying the mosaic. It is very important to have an idea about the material from which it is made, since you have to take into account the operating conditions, the quality of the surface to be finished, and much more. So let's talk about everything in order. Let's start with the types of mosaics.

Mosaic types

A modern mosaic is a small rectangular tile typed into a layer of a certain size. The basis that fastens the segments together is a polymer mesh, silicone or paper. This solution eliminates the need to manually build mosaic walls - just apply glue and glue the entire layer.

In addition to increasing the speed of masonry, there is another plus - such a finish is better bonded to the wall due to the fact that the mesh base acts as a reinforcing element.

Let's start with the simplest option - ceramic mosaic. In fact, this is an ordinary tile, but reduced in size.

Manufacturers offer solutions with various surfaces: matte, glossy, non-uniform and even with artificial cracks. The range of colors is also very large, which allows you to use this option in any rooms and interiors.

As you already understood, the main difference between the mosaic lies in the material from which it is made - this is what determines its properties and features. Glass options are next on our list, we combined them into one item, because due to the similarity of properties, they are often combined together.

So:

• Mirror mosaic- is a panel of small pieces of mirrors with polished edges. Mosaic walls in the bathroom, made from this material, visually increase the space, adding light and airiness. At the same time, the play of light will easily hide all the irregularities of the walls, if there were any before finishing.
• Smalt mosaic- This is a material made from pieces of opaque glass, which are heated to certain temperatures during the production process and subjected to special processing. As a result, the material becomes very durable and resistant to low and high temperatures, without losing its unique beauty. This mosaic is perfect for creating unique panels - all due to the fact that each of its fragments refracts light differently from the rest, and therefore has its own unique shade.
• Mosaic from Venetian glass- this is a multi-million variety of shades created with the help of special additives in the production process. Working with such a mosaic, you can create real works of art. Venetian glass is highly durable and long lasting. Its only drawback is the very high price.

Advice! When buying a mosaic of smalt and Venetian glass, you can purchase it without a base. So you can post your own art panel.

• Mosaic from natural stone made from marble, jasper, sandstone, tuff and other natural stones. It is great for decorating garden paths and floors.

Advice! Be careful when choosing a material, as some varieties of natural stone do not tolerate moisture, that is, they are not suitable for finishing bathrooms, saunas and swimming pools.

Mosaic from natural stone - slate

• Our review is completed by a mosaic of artificial granite., which is made from broken glass mixed with granite or marble dust. This production technology allows you to get a surface pierced with sparkling crystals that create a unique play of light that spreads, as it were, from inside the product.

Mosaic adhesive

Today, the areas of use of mosaics have gone far beyond the boundaries of baths and pools (see Pool cladding with mosaics: design ideas). Facing with luxurious mosaics can give a special charm to the bathroom, kitchen or living room.

Due to the variety of color palette and texture of the material, the mosaic allows designers to act boldly and in an original way, without stopping at anything. And in bringing their crazy ideas to life, such an indispensable thing as glue helps, the correct selection of which guarantees high-quality work.

The photo above shows one of the representatives of cement-based dry adhesives. This material is the most accessible and widespread.

Let's list its main properties and applications:

• This adhesive is made from gray or white cement, which determines the final shade of the mixture, for the preparation of which it is enough to mix the dry base with water or liquid latex.
• To work with various bases, three types of these mixtures are produced: hard, elastic and deformable.
• Rigid glue is used when facing even, inactive surfaces with a mineral base: masonry made of brick, aerated concrete, foam concrete; concrete and plaster surfaces.

If your house is located in close proximity to the subway or railway tracks, then for laying any tile you will need a deformable adhesive that will compensate for all fluctuations and vibrations. In addition to the above, the use of these mixtures is also appropriate when the surface to be finished is constantly exposed to temperature changes and poorly absorbs moisture (warm floors, exterior finishes, etc.).

Dispersion adhesive is a ready-made solution from a can, which will be the best option for small repairs, when it is scary to dust and stain the finished finish. Such a big plus more than compensates for the higher cost of the product.

• This material consists of minerals, water and acrylic additives. It is a paste-like mass of medium density, which is very convenient to work with.
• The setting time of the adhesive is on average 40 minutes, which will allow you to accurately adjust the position of the mosaic layer on the wall. It is enough to cover the unfinished mixture with a lid - and you can leave it until the next use. This property will be appreciated by inexperienced craftsmen.
• Dispersion adhesive is excellent for complex substrates, and provides high-quality fixation even on the surface of old tiles.
• In addition to mosaics, this material is used when fixing tiles, clinker tiles (see Clinker tiles: a versatile material for interiors and facades), majolica, glazed tiles and natural stone.

Next in line are two-component adhesives based on polyurethane and epoxy resins. They are produced in the form of a ready-made mixture, divided into two parts (base and hardener). When the components are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs, as a result of which a very strong elastic mass is formed.

• These compositions are completely waterproof, which makes them ideal for lining swimming pools, bathrooms, baths, laundries and other rooms with high humidity.
• Varieties of this glue are divided into three subspecies: fluid; with ultra-thin filler; with mineral filler.
• The composition of the material is completely free of water - thanks to this, it is the only right solution when laying mosaics from materials that do not tolerate moisture well (for example, sandstone).
• Reactive glue firmly fixes the mosaic on smooth surfaces: glass, metal, wood or plastic.

The disadvantages of this material include a very short production time, which makes it inaccessible to beginners. Also, if the glue is not removed from the surface in time, then it will take a lot of time and effort to clean it.

Which glue is right for me

Let's now recap what we've learned about adhesives. Buying glue for a mosaic is the final stage, that is, first you need to know exactly what material will be laid and what kind of base will be prepared for it.

• First of all, evaluate the time allotted for the work. If the deadlines are running out, then buy quick-hardening compounds.
• From the point of view of installation, the most whimsical type of mosaic is glass. Due to the fact that this material is transparent, the base of the wall will be visible through it. Therefore, in order not to spoil the appearance of the finish, purchase white adhesives.
• Absolutely any adhesive is suitable for laying ceramic mosaics, since the entire draft part will be completely hidden behind an opaque surface.
• Natural stone is also unpretentious. All you need to know is the resistance of the material to moisture. And if it is low, then we buy epoxy glue.

Ideally, the wall to be trimmed should be smooth, solid and clean. Applying glue to such a surface will not be difficult, and the strength of the masonry will be very high.

Cement and gypsum screeds are suitable for any type of adhesive. If you need laying on an uneven, moving or old tiled surface, then opt for highly elastic compositions. When laying the mosaic in a very humid environment, use a waterproof adhesive with an adhesion of at least 2.5 MPa.

Advice! Before filling the lined pool with water, it is necessary to wait at least two weeks after the completion of all work.

Mosaic laying

Now let's talk about the process of preparing the surface, and laying the mosaic on it.

Surface preparation and installation work

We deliberately omit wall alignment, as this is a topic for another article. Imagine that the surface is already ready for us, and we will begin further processing.

• Let's look at the process of preparing a plastered wall. The first thing we need to do is to check the surface for the presence of unfilled voids in it. Unlike tiles, mosaics must be laid on a completely flat surface. Any hole in the plaster can lead to the fact that a separate element of the mosaic sheet will begin to hang on the reinforcing mesh.
• For quick filling of voids, it is convenient to use a metal trowel, which has the necessary rigidity, which allows you to control the layer of leveling mixture applied (it is best to use the material with which the walls were plastered).
• The next step is to polish the surface. It is necessary in order to remove all layers and small irregularities that may interfere with further work.

With drywall walls, it's even easier - we close the seams and visible caps of the self-tapping screws. After the putty has completely dried, you can start laying.

But do not forget to pre-sweep the dust and prime the surface (see Priming the walls and all on this subject). This procedure will improve adhesion, bind remaining dust and reduce the moisture absorption of the substrate. The same goes for any other surface.

After the above manipulations, you can proceed to the lining.

For this we need the following tools:

• Two buckets: one for mixing glue, the other for rinsing the mixer (you can omit it if you purchased ready-made glue);
• Electric drill and nozzle-mixer;
• Building level and laser level (can be replaced with a hydraulic level);
• Notched trowel or bevel for applying glue with a tooth height of 4-6 mm;
• Mosaic smoothing tool (roller or grater);
• Marking and cutting tools.

So let's get started. We start with a horizontal layout. With the help of the level, we determine the lower edge of our surface. If necessary, laying can also be started from the center, but then you will have to accurately calculate the height in order to fit the missing segments into it later. If you start laying from the floor, then it will serve as a guide.

After, you need to make a vertical markup. To do this, we take a mosaic rug, and, moving it, we mark all future columns step by step. This procedure will show how best to make the layout, and from which side to make a cut if necessary.

Try to hide cut edges in corners and other hard-to-reach places to make them less visible.

Next, we knead the glue, and using a conventional spatula, apply it to the wall, making sure that the layer is as even as possible. Coat at a time exactly as much wall area as you have time to overlay with a mosaic, while avoiding the formation of a film on the surface of the adhesive.

No matter how hard you try, you will never be able to make the layer perfectly even. For this, a comb is used - only fine-toothed options are suitable for mosaics, which will make the layer minimal. This is necessary so that excess glue does not squeeze out through the seams.

If you did not find a small enough comb, then you can use a larger one - just tilt it to the plane of the wall, thereby cutting off the excess.

Position the notched trowel perpendicular to the wall and draw the adhesive from bottom to top. If bald spots have formed in some places, then spread the glue collected on the spatula over them and stretch it again. After you get your hand stuffed, you can try stretching the mixture in different directions. This technique will make the hitch even stronger.

Do not overdo it at this stage, as the seams may shift. For the final fixation, a rubber trowel is used - press the entire mosaic canvas with it, avoiding sliding movements. If necessary, the position of the layer can be corrected.

Attention! If you are laying a glass mosaic, be sure to coat the back side with a thin layer of glue. Otherwise, furrows of dried glue will be visible through it.

When laying the next canvas, you will need to observe the indentation, which should be equal to the distance between the tiles on the layer. Tiled crosses of the right size are suitable for this.

In this manner, we cover the entire surface coated with glue, after which we remove the mixture that remains outside the mosaic. By the way, to apply glue more accurately, use the vertical markings made earlier.

It happens that traces of silicone remain on the edges of the mosaic rugs - they need to be cut off with a clerical knife. Another feature is layers with a protective paper layer, on which the direction of laying is marked, which does not need to be removed until the glue has completely dried, as it protects the surface from dirt.

What else you need to know when laying a mosaic

Let's list the manipulations that you have to do during facing.

Cutting is a procedure without which no repair can do. Of course, you may be lucky and the width of the wall will exactly match the dimensions of the mosaic. Well, if the sockets are exactly at the seams, then you are just lucky. All that is required of you is to cut through the reinforcing mesh and remove unnecessary elements.

In other cases, you will have to painstakingly cut out each element of the canvas. For straight cutting, it is best to use double-sided roller cutters. Cutting with this tool will not create noise and dust, and the resulting edges will be even and smooth.

With cutting holes in the canvas, things are much more complicated.

We offer two ways:

• We remove segments from the canvas with the necessary margin- after which we separate the tile piece by piece, cut it with roller cutters and cover the socket in parts.
• We cut a hole with a grinder. To do this, we transfer the exact markings to the reverse side, and gradually cut through the necessary elements, beveling the rotating disk at an angle. So, the cut will be more accurate.

Much easier things are on plasterboard walls. Cutting is done after complete drying and grouting of the surface, simultaneously with drywall. For this, an electric drill with a diamond crown is used.

Well, how without grouting an infinite number of seams? Dilute the grout mixture with water, and stir until a homogeneous mass is formed. Apply it on a rubber float, and stretch it over the surface of the wall in a circular motion, without missing a single seam.

After you have covered a few square meters, take a damp sponge and gently rinse off the excess mixture. It is important to guess the state of the drying grout. If it is still liquid, then you will wash off more than necessary, and if you miss a moment, then get ready for a tedious cleaning. Usually such information is indicated on the label of the mixture, but we still recommend that you conduct a test to prevent slips.

If you have fully mastered the above information, then the mosaic on the wall will lie flat and beautiful. The video in this article will clearly show how the whole process takes place, so we recommend that you definitely familiarize yourself with it. That's all - success in your endeavors!

Compared to tiles, laying mosaics on the floor and walls in the bathroom costs from 30 to 100% more. The requirements for the preparation of foundations are increasing, the productivity and manufacturability of processes are decreasing. Therefore, ceramic, glass, metal, porcelain stoneware mosaics are more often used either for original interiors or for facing curved surfaces of complex configuration, rather than entire bathrooms.

According to the requirements of the standards SP 29.13330 and 109.13330, the flooring of the bathroom should be below the level of the finished floor in the adjacent room, and made together with the wall cladding of a waterproof material. Mosaic is a flexible type of tile due to numerous seams between small-format decorative elements.

According to the operational and design features of the finishing material, the mosaic in the bathroom is used to finish the following structures:

• "wet zones" - walls adjacent to plumbing fixtures;

  

• vertical enclosing structures - walls, partitions, boxes along the entire height;

  

• floors - screed lining, laying on top of a warm floor;
  
• elements of plumbing fixtures - lining of the ladder, the walls of the shower stall, the sides of the bathtub, "moydodyr";

  

• architectural elements - arches, ramps, columns, niches, podiums.

  

For example, a radius wall or a shower tray is almost impossible to tile in standard sizes. And when using mosaics with your own hands, finishing curved surfaces does not cause difficulties, even with insufficient qualifications of the home master.

Mosaic types

A mosaic module is called a map or a chip, it consists of tesserae - a square 4 mm thick with a side of 1 - 5 cm. Non-standard tesserae are less commonly used - chipped ceramics, oval rhombic, triangular, trapezoidal elements made of glass, stone, metal. According to the structural material, the mosaic is classified as follows:

• glass- transparent glass dyed in mass, costs from 700 rubles / m²;

  

• smalt- opaque glass, produced using a special technology (sintering at high temperature), costs from 5,000 rubles / m²;

  

• metallic- stainless steel or aluminum, price from 6,000 rubles / m²;

  Metal mosaic in the bathroom.

• ceramic- tesserae of square and arbitrary shape, costs from 1,000 rubles / m²;

  

• stone- ornamental and decorative rocks (lapis lazuli, jasper, onyx, travertine, marble, granite, gabbro, diabase), production cost from 1,500 rubles / m²;

  

• porcelain stoneware- it is used only as a floor covering, it costs from 1,200 rubles / m²;

  

• wooden- only when treated with an antiseptic, varnish, costs from 2,000 rubles / m².

  

Stone tesserae are usually thicker than glass, ceramic and metal mosaic elements. Metal mosaic is unsuitable for flooring, as the material is unpleasant to the touch due to its high thermal conductivity. The standard size of mosaic cards is 30x30 cm, the width of the seams is 2 mm.

The second significant parameter for the classification of mosaic modules is the type of fastening of tesserae inside them:

The paper mosaic is glued “blindly”, as it is glued to the sheet with the front side. The paper is wetted, then scraped off with a damp sponge after the tile adhesive has completely cured. Therefore, it will not work to correct the mutual position of the squares immediately after gluing.

The main advantage of paper mosaic maps is their low cost compared to grid mosaics.

Tessera are glued to the PVC polymer mesh with the back side. That is, in the process of finishing, their relative position can be corrected, and the fallen off squares can be glued immediately. The mesh does not need to be peeled off, it additionally increases adhesion to the base, the quality of the decorative coating and the durability of the cladding.

Mosaic adhesives

The choice of mosaic glue is influenced by several factors:

• thickness and dimensions of tesserae inside the mosaic module;
• the material of the mosaic elements and the type of their assembly (grid, paper);
• base material;
• curvature of the surface to be decorated.

Traditional tile adhesive containing a medium, coarse sand fraction is not suitable for mosaics. The instructions attached to the panels and mixes made of ceramics, smalt, natural stone, metal, without fail indicate which solution to glue the mosaic inside the bathroom on your own, and which mixtures to use at the last stage for grouting.

The most popular adhesives are:

For wet rooms, the choice of adhesive depends on its water-repellent properties.

Mosaic laying technology

The mosaic tiling technique is basically the same for rectilinear, radius surfaces, areas of complex shapes:

• base leveling;
• waterproofing if necessary;
• markup for the size of modules, panels;
• preparation of the adhesive composition;
• applying glue to the base;
• distribution with a notched trowel/trowel;
• stacking mosaic cards;
• aligning them with each other and along the marking lines;
• grouting.

If the walls are planned to be glued entirely, then first you need to put the mosaic on the bathroom floor to adjust the level before marking the vertical structures. Decorative mosaic inserts that are not adjacent to the flooring can be laid on the walls before laying the floor.

It is economically justified to repair the bathroom interior with mosaics only when creating exclusive interiors. Or if it is impossible to decorate curved surfaces with other finishing materials.

Under a 30x30 cm tile, the tile adhesive is distributed evenly, the seams are filled 1/3 - 2/3 without additional effort. In mosaic maps, the size of tesserae is more often 2.3x2.3 cm, the number of seams increases by 24 times. In case of accidental point pressure, there is a high probability of excessive immersion of the square in the solution, squeezing the glue out of the seam. If another material is used as grout, the adhesive will have to be cleaned from numerous joints, at least 1/3 of their depth.

In places where the enclosing structures veneered with mosaics join each other, with other finishing materials, plumbing fixtures, the best technical solution is to cut at 45 degrees. Polymer corners and other additional elements are incompatible with small-format decor elements.

Unlike decorating walls / floors, laying mosaics on structures and details of plumbing fixtures inside the bathroom is done as needed, and not just during a cosmetic, overhaul. The main problems of facing the floor / walls of the bathroom with mosaics are:

• the need to treat the seams with a special waterproof varnish when using glue based on white cement;
• pressing the mosaic modules with rubber-coated floats to ensure uniform distribution of force on all tesserae;
• rolling mosaic cards with rubber rollers for similar purposes;
• the impossibility of using SVP systems (tile self-levelling);
• editing the relative position of the squares.

The height of the trowel or trowel tooth can be adjusted empirically for the particular type of adhesive being used. To do this, an extra mosaic module is purchased for experimenting with the thickness of the adhesive layer. In practice, you can immediately buy a spatula with a comb tooth height of 3 mm, tested on all types of mosaics and adhesives.

Tool

For lining shower cabins, walls adjacent to baths, plumbing boards, floors and false panels / drywall boxes, you will need a tool:

• notched trowel or spatula with a comb profile height of 3 mm;
• tape measure, lace, pencil;
• plumb, level, square, better laser plane builder;
• usually a rubber spatula;
• containers for the preparation of mixtures;
• polyurethane grater;
• rubber mallet;
• knife, rubber roller.

It is impossible to cut mosaic modules with a tile cutter, you will need an angle grinder with a diamond disc. Elements that accidentally flew out of the cards - tesserae - are installed back with tweezers.

Foundation preparation

Before decorating enclosing structures with mosaic modules, wall surfaces must comply with the requirements of SNiP and SP:

• perfectly flat smooth surface;
• the strength of the base is higher than that of the cladding;
• surface treatment with waterproofing material (not always necessary).

The algorithm for preparing the base for the mosaic is extremely simple:

• grinding the surface of an angle grinder with a disk for stone or diamond equipment with irregularities less than 3 mm;
• leveling the surface with putty with plane differences of 3 - 5 mm;
• plastering on lighthouses at "littered" corners, a winding line of junction of walls with ceilings;
• installation of GKL systems for covert wiring of communications, installation of suspended plumbing with installation systems.

The usual primer does not belong to the category of waterproofing materials. The primer can reduce the consumption of glue, increase adhesion to the base, nothing more.

Rolled bituminous waterproofing is incompatible with mosaics. Typically, paint, coating materials are used that provide a continuous film layer on the entire surface of the wall / floor without gaps. It is better to use cement-based coating waterproofing, because. its adhesion is similar to tile adhesive.

Laying

The most difficult is the option of decorating the floor and walls with mosaics from top to bottom. In this case, lay out the mosaic inside the bathroom in a certain sequence:

• floor - marking from the front door, the most significant left / right wall, laying in reverse order from the far corner to the opening, starting with cutting tessers;
• walls - first you should lay out the mosaic above the bathroom, then veneer the lower level to avoid trimming in the most visible areas;
• radius surfaces, niches - when lining the bathroom with your own hands, the adhesive composition is distributed with a “comb” along curved surfaces, the modules are rolled out with a roller.

Depending on the qualifications of the home master and the quality of fastening the tesserae inside the mosaic modules, the lining can be glued in several ways:

• in order or with a ledge from the corner;
• diagonally or horizontally;
• below or above.

Normally, it is possible to glue small-format cladding indoors in winter only after 24 hours of adaptation of the materials brought to the microclimate of the room. Work at temperatures below + 5 ° C is not economically viable, since the mosaic will fall off, everything will have to be redone.

For trimming, the matrix is ​​clamped between two pieces of rigid sheet material (fiberboard, OSB, GVL) in order to simultaneously fix all the squares motionless along the cut line.

Grout

Depending on the composition of the tile adhesive, grouting of the mosaic joints is possible after 4 to 24 hours (two-component, cement composition, respectively). Ready-made dispersion adhesives harden after 10-12 hours.

Unlike porcelain stoneware / tiles, mosaics are often laid and rubbed with the same adhesive. An exception is glass mosaic, which is mounted on white cement glue, rubbed with a two-component transparent polymer composition.

For the seams of metal, ceramic, porcelain stoneware, stone mosaics, multi-colored polyurethane grouts or compositions with special properties (phosphor, sparkles, chips) are used.

Thus, laying an expensive mosaic inside the bathroom allows you to veneer surfaces of complex shape. Or implement projects of high decorative value.

Advice! If you need a bathroom remodeler, there is a very convenient service for the selection of specialists from. Just fill in the details of the order, the masters themselves will respond and you can choose with whom to cooperate. Each specialist in the system has a rating, reviews and examples of work that will help with the choice. Looks like a mini tender. Submitting an application is FREE and there is no obligation. Works in almost all cities of Russia.

If you are a master, then go to, register in the system and be able to take orders.

This tile easily fits on any curvilinear and radius surfaces, which allows you to implement the most original design ideas.

Mosaic harmoniously combines with other finishing materials - tiles, natural and artificial stone, wood, metal. The use of such combinations is one of the most winning design techniques today.

Contrary to popular belief, laying mosaic tiles is not a big deal.

The fact is that modern mosaics are not produced individually, but in whole sheets, in which the tiles are firmly held on a flexible mesh base. This greatly simplifies and speeds up the installation process.

It is enough to responsibly approach the preparation of the base, choose the right adhesive composition and be careful so that the result of the work delivers one sheer pleasure.

What glue and equipment should be purchased for laying the mosaic on the grid

For laying mosaic tiles, you will need the following materials and tools:

• styling glue;
• mosaic tiles;
• grout for seams;
• tape measure, pencil;
• building level;
• small grinder + discs for stone / ceramics;
• container for stirring glue;
• drill mixer;
• notched trowel;
• rubber spatula;
• water tank + sponge;
• forceps;
• felt or flannelette rag.

Regardless of which mosaic you choose - ceramic, glass or natural stone, it is always recommended to choose glue only in white.

Otherwise, after complete drying, the tile may acquire an undesirable shade.

• Ceresit CM 115 - adhesive for mosaic and marble tiles. Designed for laying mosaics (including glass) on any non-deformable bases. Suitable for both indoor and outdoor use, can be used in underfloor heating systems (inside buildings).

Ceresit CM 115 eliminates the appearance of dark spots on translucent cladding, is resistant to tile displacement during laying, is environmentally friendly, water and frost resistant.

Ceresit SM 115 is sold in bags of 5 and 25 kg, it costs an average of 200 and 600 rubles, respectively.

• Bergauf Mosaik is a universal adhesive for all types of mosaic tiles. Made from powdered white cement with the addition of natural mineral fillers and modifying polymer additives.

Designed for facing works inside and outside buildings, suitable for use in rooms with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen, toilet, etc.).

Glue Bergauf Mosaik is sold in bags of 5 and 25 kg, it costs an average of 180 and 500 rubles, respectively.

• Axton Mosaic Adhesive- a budget option for high-quality tile adhesive from Leroy Merlin. Allows you to quickly and securely stick the glass mosaic on the grid.

Possesses good adhesion, high durability. When used with a latex additive, it can be used to finish swimming pools. A 5-kilogram package of glue costs about 150 rubles.

Instructions - correctly glue the mosaic on the grid in the bathroom

The work on laying mosaic tiles is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Foundation preparation. Glue the mosaic on the grid on the wall in the bathroom or on a kitchen apron should only be after careful preparation of the base.

It is necessary to clean the surface of dirt and dust, old peeling coatings - everything that can impair the adhesion of materials.

If the surface of the wall is not completely flat, it must first be sanded with a grinder or grinder with a disc for stone or ceramics.

If the unevenness on the base exceeds 2-3 mm, it is recommended to level the surface using leveling compounds. A completely dry, solid, clean and even surface is the ideal base for laying mosaics on a grid.

2. Markup. It is recommended to apply markings on the prepared surface, which will help to carefully glue the mosaic sheets.

First, sheets of tiles are laid out on the floor in such a way that the distance between the sheets corresponds to the gap between the tiles themselves.

After that, measurements are taken and the entire scheme is transferred to the wall, not forgetting to control the position of the canvases vertically and horizontally with the help of the building level. Proper markup allows you to hide cropped areas.

3. Glue preparation. The properties of any adhesive are guaranteed by the manufacturer only if the proportions and technology of preparing the solution are strictly observed.

The principle of preparing glue from different manufacturers is the same: a building mixture is poured into a clean, dry container, poured with water in the specified proportion and mixed with a drill-mixer until a homogeneous creamy consistency is obtained.

The finished solution is left for a few minutes, after which it is mixed again.

4. Application of glue. The adhesive solution is applied to the wall evenly with a notched trowel, while the surface area should not exceed the area of ​​the number of mosaic sheets that can be laid within 3-5 minutes (otherwise the glue will dry out).

The optimal thickness of the adhesive layer is 2-3 mm. If there is more glue, then when the mosaic is pressed in, the excess mortar will fill the seams between the tiles, which will complicate the grouting process in the future.

. The prepared mosaic sheets are applied to the marked area with a mesh base. Gently, without excessive pressure, level the canvas on the surface.

Similarly, laying of all prepared canvases is carried out. For splitting the material, if necessary, use special tongs.

6. Grouting. 24 hours after laying the mosaic, you can start grouting. To do this, use a rubber float, with which the grout is rubbed into the seam spaces with smooth movements.

Excess material is removed with a damp sponge. After the grout dries, the surface is polished with a felt cloth.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Here are some practical tips to help you lay your mosaics better.:

1. When choosing an adhesive, consider the type of substrate it will be applied to.
2. Check the consistency of the adhesive to ensure that the mosaic sheets do not move during installation. Too thick glue dries quickly, which complicates the workflow.
3. It is recommended to prepare the glue in small portions, taking into account the low consumption (about 2 kg per square meter). It is not recommended to try to dilute thickened adhesive residues, since its properties have already been lost.
4. During laying, glue should not be allowed to flow beyond the joints - this will make it difficult to grout them in the future.
5. The optimal temperature regime for laying mosaics on a grid is 15-25 C.

The bathroom is the face of the whole house, guests inevitably get there. Therefore, it should look presentable. There are no trifles in this matter: the floor, ceiling, walls should be covered not only with practical, but also with beautiful material, easy to maintain and maintain. As an option, along with large-sized ceramic tiles, builders began to use mosaic tiles.

Traditionally, mosaic is considered a high-class material, and earlier not many people could afford to use it for repairs. The main difficulty was laying many small tiles, but now this problem has been solved. Mosaic on a grid that combines individual particles into easy-to-install blocks allows you to fasten the material quickly and without much effort. But before you go to the store, you should learn more about the varieties of mosaic tiles, their purpose and the nuances of laying.

Mosaic tiles in the interior

Features of the material and its varieties

Mosaic is a small (1x1 cm) fragments of finishing materials, located at regular intervals and forming a single picture. In the case under consideration, these elements are fixed on a flexible metal mesh. Such material can be used for floor and wall cladding, as a coating for kitchen furniture, and even for decorating facades and garden paths.

According to the type of surface, the mosaic is glossy and matte. Gloss is easier to clean and more often used for walls in rooms with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen), while matte tiles with anti-slip properties are more suitable for flooring.

Another criterion that affects the appearance, technical characteristics and cost of a mosaic is the material of manufacture. On sale is a mosaic of:

What should be the tiled base?

Unlike ordinary tiles, the mosaic is placed not just on a flat, but on a perfectly smooth surface, otherwise, due to the flexible mesh base that repeats any irregularities, the pattern will be spoiled and the edges will not converge. Therefore, the technology of laying mosaic tiles implies careful preparation of the base.

First, the walls or floor are cleaned of old coatings and dust. Then they are checked by level for the presence of height differences. To make it easier to eliminate irregularities, use the following technique - thickly rub an even rail of a suitable size with chalk and, pressing it well, run it along the walls or floor. In places where there is no chalk left, there are depressions that need to be filled with plaster or concrete mix (if mosaic is being laid on the floor). In case of serious flaws and cracks, it is more rational and easier to level the walls with drywall, while not forgetting to wipe the joints and caps of self-tapping screws.

The prepared surface is dedusted and treated with a deep penetration primer. This will improve adhesion, providing better bonding of materials. After the composition has dried, you can proceed to the installation of the mosaic.

How to choose the right adhesive for mosaic tiles?

Some types of mosaics are very capricious to adhesives, so you need to choose an adhesive based on the specific material with which you plan to work. Laying the mosaic on the grid is carried out using the following compositions:

• Glue is standard. It consists of sand, Portland cement and modifying additives. Suitable for laying opaque tiles on standard surfaces.
• polymer composition. Polymer components provide reliable adhesion, making the adhesive suitable for facing surfaces of complex shapes.
• Glue is white. It includes the same components as the standard one, the only difference is the white color supported by special components. Laying glass mosaics is carried out only on this solution.
• Homemade solution. The necessary ingredients are water, cement and fine, well-sifted sand. All components are mixed to a consistency of medium density with a drill with a special nozzle. The cost of such glue will be low, but it is better to use it for concrete or stone mosaics.

If you have to work with a wooden surface or drywall - the glue must be selected individually. In particular, for wood cladding, it is recommended to add PVA to standard adhesives.

Mosaic laying technology

The question of how to glue mosaic tiles on a grid correctly is of interest to many beginner tilers. You should start by laying out the mosaic fragments in the selected order on a horizontal surface. For the convenience of further work, the tiles should be numbered. However, if your mosaic does not have a specific pattern, this step can be neglected.

Laying mosaic tiles begins with the most noticeable area. This is necessary in order to make it easier to disguise the places where the material is trimmed. It is advisable to think over the laying scheme and the location of the slices in advance. If the pattern and footage of the surface involves trimming only along the seam, you can divide the mesh with ordinary nippers, and you will have to use a glass cutter to accurately cut the tile itself.

The adhesive is applied to the surface to be coated in small portions, given that it takes about 15 minutes to dry. The solution is distributed with a notched trowel (tooth height 6-8 mm), a tile is applied to it and leveled. The result is checked by level. In order for the mosaic to stand up well, it is impossible to press it with your hands; instead, the laid tiles are rolled with a rubber roller. If you are laying tiles on a kitchen "apron", before starting work, its lower border is outlined by a line and a metal profile is attached to it, on which the material will rest.

Pay attention to the distance between the sheets, it should match the gaps between individual tile fragments. If at the joints of walls or other surfaces after trimming there are noticeable ends of the grid, they can be hidden under a decorative stroke. After finishing laying, fresh glue is used to clean the mosaic coating - remove excess mortar with a damp sponge. Then the surface is wiped dry and left to dry for 2-3 days.

Grouting

Laying mosaic tiles with your own hands is completed by cleaning the seams. To do this, you will need a grout mixture. There are compositions based on cement, latex and epoxy. When choosing, be guided by the operating conditions of the tile, if it will be subjected to thermal stress and chemicals, it is worth taking a grout with the addition of epoxy. But keep in mind that its use will require preliminary protective treatment of the mosaic with wax.

Equally important is the color of the grout. It sets off the mosaic pattern and, being unsuccessfully selected, can ruin the whole picture. Compare the grout to a small piece of your tile when purchasing to ensure you get the right color combination.

The selected mixture is diluted with water, referring to the instructions on the package. If you use a grout with a water-repellent effect, then in the process of preparing the solution, you cannot do without a drill with a mixing nozzle. It is recommended to apply the solution with a rubber spatula. The work will go faster if you use a 15-20 cm spatula.

The grout mixture dries in 10-15 minutes, after which the excess composition is removed by wiping the surface of the mosaic with a damp sponge in circular motions. Frequent rinsing of the sponge will prevent streaks from appearing on the tiles. The laying of the mosaic is over, it remains only to allow the coating to dry.

is a creative process where attention to detail will never be superfluous. When choosing a wall covering material, consider the conditions under which it will be used, as well as how the tile is combined with the floor, ceiling and other elements. Pay special attention to textiles. It is good if it repeats the color and fragments of the pattern of the selected coating.

Let's summarize. With attention to detail and the use of the necessary tools, the technology of laying a mosaic on a grid is not a problem even for a non-professional. So maybe you should show a little diligence and imagination and decorate the interior of your house with a mosaic pattern?