DIY metal wood stove. Review of metal heating stoves. Prices for stainless steel tanks

A stove at the dacha is far from a luxury - in the struggle for the harvest, the summer resident is on his plot from early spring until late autumn. To drive dampness out of the house after winter and maintain dry heat, the gardener is forced to install a stove. The choice of heating devices is large; you can purchase a ready-made device or make it yourself.

What material is optimal?

In terms of thermal performance indicators, cast iron is the best material; it has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Nuances of a cast iron stove:

• heaviness and inconvenience of transportation;
• in the cold season, too intense melting can lead to heating device will crack;
• Suitable for occasional use in the country.

For permanent residence in a private home it is better to pay attention to other options. Brick stoves have good heat capacity and retain heat for a long time, even after burning out.

Features of brick kiln:

• a brick oven requires the manufacture of a foundation; you can contact a specialized company or cast it yourself;
• It is better to entrust the masonry to an experienced stove-maker, and not to do it yourself;
• the stove must be heated regularly, and after a long break it should be heated with a large amount of fuel;
• Brick stoves are suitable for homes and cottages if people live in the house regularly.

Butakov stove, cold start in winter

If you close your eyes to the complete lack of aesthetics, the welded version is ideally suited for the home and country house. It is easy to make and does not require special skills; you can make the oven yourself. It is a box on legs, divided into two parts - the combustion chamber itself and the so-called ash pan. It is easy to build a heat exchanger, hob, or, for example, oven into it.

The downside is that these devices do not last long, especially with regular use.

Popular models, their cost and description

"Matrix"

The model is distinguished by the presence of a convector casing, which ensures fast and uniform heating of the heated room. The stove can operate at home in long burning up to 8 hours on one stack of firewood.

It is also equipped with a hob and heat-resistant glass installed in the door, which allows you to control the combustion process.

The price for such a stove varies from 12 to 17 thousand rubles.

Stove for home and garden “Top Model”
A special feature of this model is a convection heater.

Cold air entering bottom part heater, heats up from the hot walls of the combustion chamber and comes out of the holes through convection pipes.

The stove is equipped with a three-turn firebox. It can heat food and heat a room up to 140 square meters.

It can be purchased for 20 thousand rubles.

Breneran stove
These models are distinguished by two combustion chambers. In the lower one, fuel combustion occurs, in the upper one, gases are burned. The wood-burning stove is equipped with two regulators: a power regulator located on the door and a gasifier regulator located on the chimney in the rear.

Numerous pipes that carry out forced convection pass through the “body” of the furnace. This allows you to quickly and evenly heat the rooms.

The principle of operation is simple - cold air is taken in from the bottom of the oven, passing through convection pipes, manages to warm up to 65 degrees and exits from the top of the pipes. Works on all types of solid fuel.

The manufacturer claims that in long-burning mode it can work for up to 12 hours. Application: private houses, country houses, greenhouses, small industrial premises. The price of this stove is about 25 thousand rubles.

Budget options for stoves

Its small size allows it to be installed in a country house or garden house.

• It has a cylindrical shape.
• Equipped with a convector casing.
• It has a hob, so you can cook food in a cauldron at home.
• The hob is made of cast iron.
• The cost will be 6-8 thousand rubles.

Potbelly stove "Vesuvius mini"
It is lightweight (up to 20 kilograms).

Capable of heating rooms up to 100 square meters.
The firebox is very spacious and provides long-lasting combustion.
You can cook it yourself or buy it.
Costs about 6 thousand rubles.

Another representative of the budget class is the Vesuvius Comfort wood stove. It differs from the previous model in the heat-resistant glass installed in the door, which allows you not only to heat rooms up to 120 square meters, but also to admire the burning flame. This model will cost 7 thousand rubles.

A simple portable oven. Can help in many cases.

It can be used to heat a small country house, garage, greenhouse, tent or mobile sauna.

During transportation, the chimney pipes and stove legs are removed into the firebox. –

Equipped with a carrying bag and will become ideal solution for country houses not equipped with electricity.

Its cost is 7 thousand rubles.

A small stove, fueled by wood, equipped with a hob.

It has a strict cubic shape and a reliable door locking mechanism. A small hole made of heat-resistant glass in the door allows you to observe the burning of firewood.

Its special feature is the hinged firebox door, which opens 140 degrees. This makes loading fuel safer.

The compact dimensions of the stove allow it to be installed even in a small country house.

Price – about 8 thousand rubles.

Wood heating stove "Taiga"

It is easy to use in a production room or garage.

It is equipped with an outer casing of the convector type, its feature is a no-grid firebox, this increases its efficiency.

Suitable for cooking, works on wood, peat and other combustible waste.

Capable of heating a room of up to 100 square meters in houses, greenhouses, garages or cottages.

The buyer will be able to purchase it for 9 thousand rubles.

Stove for the cottage - we cook it ourselves

There are actually a lot of home-made heating devices. Let's look at the most economical and effective ones.

Potbelly stove

It won’t be difficult to weld a stove for your dacha with your own hands. To do this, you will need a sheet of iron with a thickness of at least 5 mm - for the walls of the furnace. The thickness is selected taking into account the fact that the surface will heat up - after all, there is a combustion chamber inside.

You will also need a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, it will become a pipe for the chimney, and a grate for firewood in the firebox. To make a pipe, you can take a steel pipe 25 cm long.

Manufacturing technology

We transfer the dimensions onto sheets of iron and cut them out with a grinder. There are 6 parts in total, in pairs. Bottom and top surfaces side walls and ends.

In the lid we cut out a circle for the pipe to a size of 100 mm, and carefully insert the pipe into the hole and weld it. You need to weld in one seam so that leakage does not occur through micro-cracks. carbon monoxide.

Then we put the structure together. The grille should be welded before the lid is finally attached.

You need to weld corners - legs - to the bottom of the structure. In one of the end partitions we cut out a door for the firebox and a hole for the blower.

Similarly, you can weld a heating device for your home or cottage with your own hands from old barrel or a can, it can serve the summer resident for more than one season.

Video: Beautiful potbelly stove with your own hands

Stove fireplace Meta Moscow 9

ANGARA 12 fireplace stove with stove

Stove-fireplace ANGARA

Stove-fireplace RHINE

Stove-fireplace La Nordica ISETTA CON CERCHI

Stove-fireplace La Nordica FULVIA LIBERTY

Stove-fireplace La Nordica FIAMMETTA

A stove in a country house is simply necessary, especially in cases where garden plot It is used not only as a place of rest, but also for fruitful agricultural work, the fruits of which provide the gardener and his family with vegetables and fruits for the whole winter. If a dacha serves as a kind of source of wealth, then its owners have to work on the land from early spring until late autumn.

During the “off-season” period, and sometimes even in the summer, the nights can be quite cold, and therefore without heating it will be very uncomfortable to be in the house. In addition, it is impossible to live in suburban conditions without hot food, and cooking over a fire is inconvenient and not very hygienic. In both cases, a stove can always come to the rescue.

In addition, we can remember the aesthetic component of the issue - most people really like to sit by an open firebox, watching the flames. It’s especially nice to have such a cozy evening and relax in a comfortable chair after active work in the garden.

As you know, not all country houses can boast of a large area, so most often a mini stove for a summer house is chosen for such conditions.

Criteria for choosing a country stove

Based on the specific conditions of future operation, it is necessary to determine the criteria by which to select a stove for a country house. These may include not only technical and ergonomic characteristics, but also economic considerations.

1. The compactness of the device or brick structure is one of the main conditions for a small cottage room.
2. The most important condition for a country stove is its safety, since they are usually out of town the houses are built from wood, which dries quickly in the sun and when sparks hit it, it can literally burst into flames like a match. In addition, the device itself and the chimney pipe must be completely sealed and have excellent internal draft, since carbon monoxide entering the premises can lead to irreversible tragic consequences.
3. A stove installed in the country and not used in winter period, must withstand this fairly long period without a firebox and not become damp.
4. Quick kindling and warming up of the device, the distribution of heat throughout the premises are also important conditions for a country stove, since in rainy weather or simply after finishing work in the garden, you want to relax in the warmth and drink hot tea as quickly as possible.
5. It is advisable to have a stove with a large firebox door in your dacha so that it can serve as a fireplace, since it will be quite difficult to do without evening gatherings near the fire.
6. Long-term heat preservation is especially necessary if summer residents come to the dacha for an overnight stay, so that the heat from the stove heated in the evening will last until the morning.
7. It will not be easy to manage without a hob in a country stove, especially in cases where electricity is cut off quite often in the village and there is no gas supply.
8. An important factor accompanying this is the fuel required for the stove. To save money, you should choose an “omnivorous” heating device that can be heated with different types of fuel - firewood, brushwood, briquettes, pellets, coal and even household waste.
9. It is advisable that the stove be equipped with a built-in hot water register for showers.
10. The simplicity of the chosen design of the heating device will allow you to install or fold it yourself and save a significant amount, since calling specialists will be quite expensive.
11. Aesthetic appearance The design of the stove is also important, since it can decoratively transform the room or, conversely, introduce disharmony into its design.

Types of mini-ovens based on material used

Country mini-stoves can be made of different materials - for example, they are steel, cast iron and brick. Each of the varieties has its own advantages and disadvantages. Which type will be preferable depends on several criteria, which will be discussed below.

You might be interested in information on how to build

Steel furnaces

Steel furnaces can be called ideal option for installing them in the country. Of course, made independently, they will not look as aesthetically pleasing as those purchased in specialized stores, but they will cost homemade stoves much cheaper.

Steel stoves are the most affordable and easy to install

A steel stove is the lightest and most affordable heating device. As a rule, it is quite mobile, so if desired, in the summer it can even be moved to a gazebo or veranda by disconnecting it from the chimney. The compactness of the steel device allows it to be installed in a small room, and its relative lightness does not require the installation of a monolithic concrete foundation– it will be enough to organize a non-combustible flooring made of asbestos and metal sheets.

Stoves made of this material almost always have a cooking surface that heats up quickly enough and remains hot throughout the entire firebox. In addition, you can choose a model that has an oven, which allows you to bake bread or pies in your country house.

The disadvantages of steel products include the following:

• Such stoves are less durable than cast iron or brick, but since they will not be heated constantly, the metal oxides that are formed under the influence of flame and temperatures during fires, in the intervals between them, interacting with oxygen, form a thick, heat-resistant deposit. It is this layer that allows the stove to be used for 18–30 years, that is, twice or three times longer than with regular heating.
• Not all steel stoves that have proven themselves well in other conditions are suitable for installation in summer cottages. For example, these include the long-burning models “Slobozhanka” or “Bubafonya”, as well as some other options. They are not recommended for the following reasons:

— long heating of the surface;

— lack of a full-fledged hob;

- having a relatively small size, they still take up a lot of space, since they cannot be installed close to the wall;

- do not have glass doors, so they can be used as a fireplace only by opening the solid door wide. “Bubafonya” is completely impossible to use in this role.

— rather unaesthetic appearance of the stoves.

• Exhaust stoves should not be used in dacha premises, as they emit an unpleasant odor that is harmful to health. In addition, they are quite fire and explosive.

Cast iron mini ovens

Cast iron stoves have many advantages and are great for country houses, but only if they are permanently installed. This metal has a large mass, and you need to take into account that it will most likely not be possible to take such a stove outside in the summer. In addition, it will also not be possible to build a DHW register into a cast iron model yourself, since cast iron is almost impossible to process at home. Therefore, if you plan to install a stove with this function, then you need to immediately purchase a model that is initially equipped with it.

Cast iron stove - reliable, durable, has high heat transfer

The price of cast iron products is quite high, but such a stove will last a very long time, unless, of course, it is exposed to sudden temperature changes (cast iron can crack when, for example, a bucket spills onto a hot stove cold water), and excessive mechanical loads - this metal does not like shocks.

It is necessary to build a foundation under a cast iron stove, as it is very heavy, and a wooden floor her may not stand it. In addition, the furnace heats up to high temperatures, so a foundation is necessary to comply with fire safety regulations. Moreover, it must be large enough and extend beyond the dimensions of the stove by 400÷500 mm on all sides of the heating device.

Otherwise, a cast iron stove is ideal for a summer residence, due to its following positive qualities:

• For this material, interruptions in the heating period are unimportant, since it does not oxidize and does not burn out.
• Cast iron is not affected by moisture and therefore does not rust.
• The material warms up well and retains heat for a very long time.
• Usually cast iron stoves They have a large enough cooking surface that allows you not only to boil a kettle, but also to place a pot or frying pan next to it.
• As a rule, heating devices made of this material are given a very aesthetic appearance. The walls of the stove can be decorated with an ornamental plant pattern. Cast iron stoves can have only a decorative appearance or be made in the form of a stove.
• This type of stove is produced in a wide range of sizes and may have a built-in oven and even a heating circuit.

Brick kilns

Brick stoves are considered traditional for private houses in Russia, so country houses are often no exception. Brick stoves are rightly recognized as the most reliable and heat-intensive.

The stove can be installed in such a way that it will heat two rooms at once without installing a heating circuit in it. Properly brought out with the valve installed - quite fireproof, but for such a structure it is necessary to equip a reliable foundation, completely isolated from the foundation of the walls. This must be observed in order to maintain the integrity of the masonry, since when the foundation of the house itself shrinks, it can pull the base of the stove with it.

It should be remembered that brick stoves really do not like dampness and long periods of inactivity, therefore, in order to achieve the required heat transfer after an unheated period, it is necessary to carry out two or three drying fireboxes without heavy load. Moreover, in each of them the amount of firewood needs to be increased - this process is often called “overclocking”.

It is precisely because brick buildings are afraid of dampness that such stoves are installed in the country only in cases where the country house is occupied most of the year, and it is possible to carry out periodic heating.

Many residents of private or country houses consider only stoves made of brick to be real and useful, not recognizing heating devices made of other materials. Indeed, brick stoves give a home special warmth and comfort. And what is also very important is that they can be multifunctional. Furnace specialists have developed a considerable number of different models, from which you can easily choose the one you need for a specific area. country house.

Review of models of small stoves for summer cottages

To make it easier to make a choice, it makes sense to consider several ready-made models made from various materials. Such stoves can be purchased in specialized stores, and some of them (steel and brick), if you have the skills, can be made independently.

Cast iron models

Bake "PINETO"

An excellent model for a summer house, both in size and design, and in characteristics, is the PINETO stove from the Polish company Nordflam. The model is made in a “vintage” style and has a bronze color, so it will fit into a variety of interior options, be sure to decorate it with its presence.

Having a door with fireproof glass, the stove can be used as a fireplace. The hob is large enough to accommodate two pieces of cookware, so eat you can cook two dishes at once. The connection for the chimney pipe is located on top, on the hob, which means that the stove can be installed very close to the wall of the house, provided that heat-resistant protection is installed material - brick, special drywall, asbestos board or ceramic tiles.

This model has the following technical characteristics:

• Type of fuel - firewood.
• Power – 6 kW.
• Heating area – up to 70 sq. m.
• The stove has a top connection.
• Diame tr trchimney lips - 120 mm.
• Efficiency – 87%.
• Door opening type – side.
• The model has the following functions:

- systemsself-cleaningglass;

— long burning;

— secondaryafterburning.

• Width – 440 mm.
• Height – 610 mm.
• Depth – 330 mm.
• Weight – 165 kg.

The manufacturer provides a one-year warranty on its product.

Prices for the Pineto stove

stove "pineto"

Bake " Isotta Forno"

Another option for a compact and aesthetic cast iron stove, produced by the Italian company “LaNordica”, famous in European countries, and now in Russia, is the “Isotta Forno” model.

This heating device will not take up much space, since additional function— an enameled oven, located on the “second floor” above the firebox. Therefore such the oven can be purchased even for heating a very small room.

Prices for the Isotta Forno stove

La Nordica Ghisa Isotta forno

The technical characteristics of this model are as follows:

• Manufacturing material – cast iron.
• Type of fuel - firewood.
• Efficiency – 90%.
• Power – 11 kW.
• Heating area – 95÷100 sq. m.
• Door opening type – side.
• The stove has a top connection.
• The diameter of the chimney pipe is 150 mm.
• The model has the following functions:

- systems self-cleaning glass;

— long burning;

— secondaryafterburning.

• Width – 795 mm.
• Height – 1244 mm.
• Depth – 530 mm.
• Weight – 296 kg.

The Isotta stove is made entirely of cast iron and has double walls, between which air flows can circulate.

Panoramic glass with a self-cleaning function can withstand temperatures of 750˚C.

There is a door on the side of the stove into which longer logs are placed.

The device is equipped with an air supply regulator that can completely shut it off, which is especially important when using the long-burning mode, as well as for creating a beautiful picture of the play of flames. In addition, the regulator ensures that the furnace operates in gas generation mode and helps clean the glass from soot.

This stove model is capable of heating an area of ​​about 100 m² within an hour, while the walls of the structure are heated to 80˚C.

When fully loaded, in smoldering mode (long burning with afterburning of pyrolysis gases), the stove is capable of providing the room with heat for 15-18 hours.

Stove-fireplace “Svezia”

This product from the Italian company “LaNordica” harmoniously combines refined taste and practicality, since the materials used in its production and finishing are aesthetic and durable. The stove body is cast from high-quality cast iron, and the lining consists of steel and panels made of ceramics or natural stone. These materials, as well as the glass part of the door, are fireproof and can withstand temperatures of 750˚C.

The model is equipped with a removable box for drying firewood and an ash pan, which are installed in the niches provided for them in the lower part of the device body. With a sufficiently high power, the stove consumes only 2500 g of wood per hour.

The technical characteristics of the Svezia fireplace stove are as follows:

• Manufacturing material – cast iron.
• Finishing material – steel, ceramics or natural stone.
• Type of fuel - firewood.
• Efficiency – 84.5%.
• Power – 9 kW.
• Volume heating– 258 m³.
• Bakehas an upperconnection.
• Diametr trchimney ledge – 150 mm.
• Door opening type –side.
• The model has the following functions:

— systemsself-cleaning glass;

— regulatorair intake;

— long burning;

— secondaryafterburning.

• Width – 599 mm.
• Height – 1254 mm.
• Depth – 544 mm.
• Weight – 188÷230 kg, depending on the cladding.
• The size of the hearth is 377×340×385 mm.

Heating and cooking stove “Rosa Palladio”

This version of the “Rosa Palladio” heating and cooking stove from the same Italian company “LaNordica” has larger dimensions than other models, but is also equipped with significantly greater functionality - this is a spacious hob and a voluminous enamel oven, which allows you not to cook any dishes , but also bake bread products.

This model can be called combined, since its frame and main elements are made of cast iron, and the cladding is made of high-quality steel and ceramic plates, which contribute to longer heat retention. The stove can be installed in a kitchen or room decorated in a rustic style. Stoves are produced with finishes made in different color scheme- these are burgundy brick (“Burgundy”), milky pink (“cappuccino”) and milky gray (“parchment”) shades.

Technical characteristics of the heating and cooking stove “Rosa Palladio”:

• Manufacturing material – cast iron.
• Finishing materials: steel and ceramics.
• Type of fuel - firewood.
• Efficiency – 79.8%.
• Power – 10 kW.
• Volume heating– 185 m³.
• Bakehas an upperconnection.
• Diametr trchimney ledge – 150 mm.
• Door opening type –side.
• The model has the following functions:

— systemsself-cleaning glass;

— regulator with two air supply systems;

— long burning mode;

- mode secondaryafterburning.

• Width – 1030 mm.
• Height – 851 mm.
• Depth – 660 mm.
• Weight – 169 kg.
• Size doors – 420×395 mm.
• The size of the firebox is 270×340×400 mm.

Steel furnaces

More affordable, but no less effective - steel models of stoves for summer cottages. They may have different design and forms - from the simplest to the most complex. Steel models are equipped with only the necessary functions or may have advanced capabilities. Their cost today ranges from 4,000 to 25,000 rubles, depending on functionality and design.

Heating and cooking stove "Breneran" type OO with two burners.

This economical option is suitable for a small room, as it has compact dimensions. However, despite this, it is capable of heating a room with a volume of up to 100 m³.

This model is made by the Russian manufacturer “Laotherm” from high-quality steel and has a coating of heat-resistant paint, which is hardened with the first firing of the device.

Prices for the Breneran stove

The stove is equipped with an air supply regulator, which is located on the door, and a gasifier regulator is provided on the branch pipe for connecting the housing to the chimney. The hob has two burners with removable lids that allow for quick heating or cooking.

The door of this model is equipped with a comfortable safety cool handle. The convenience of the stove is that it can heat two or three small isolated rooms. To do this, flexible metal sleeves are attached to the upper holes and distributed throughout the rooms.

Technical characteristics of the Breneran furnace:

• The material of manufacture is steel; sheets 4 mm thick are used for the firebox.
• etc..
• Efficiency – 75%.
• Power – 6 kW.
• Volume of heated room – up to 100 m³.
• The oven has a rear connection.
• Diametr trchimney lips - 120 mm.
• Door opening type –side.
• The model has the following functions:

— regulator with two air supply systems;

• Width – 455 mm.
• Height – 555 mm.
• Depth – 720 mm.
• Weight – 73 kg.
• Sizedoors: 420×395 mm.

The manufacturer's warranty is 2.5 years.

The model does not have a viewing glass on the door, and if you want to sit near an open fire, you will have to open it wide. Therefore, for fire safety purposes, a base made of heat-resistant material must be provided under the stove, and the sheet must extend beyond the device body by at least 500 mm.

It should be noted that, despite its modest size, the stove has a fairly high price. Today its cost varies from 15,000 to 19,000 rubles.

This version of a steel stove-stove can be called the most affordable by price, by compared to all existing models of mini-stoves for summer cottages, since its cost today varies only from 2800 to 4000 rubles. In fact, this model is an ordinary, familiar potbelly stove and has a very simple design.

The stove is made of steel 5 mm thick. The device is equipped with a solid metal door with a side opening and no viewing glass.

Prices for the Vesuvius mini stove

Vesuvius mini

Another disadvantage of some versions of these stoves is the absence of an ash drawer, although the manufacturer, when describing the product, notes that when wood burns, it produces an “ash cushion” that prevents overheating of the bottom of the firebox. However, the absence of this element eliminates the possibility of qualitatively adjusting the draft inside the firebox, and you have to perform such adjustment yourself, opening the firebox door a little - and this, you see, is extremely inconvenient. Therefore, when choosing this model, it is best to find an option that has an ash pan, which is also a draft regulator.

Model specifications:

• The material of manufacture is steel 5 mm thick.
• Finishing material – heat-resistant paint.
• Type of fuel - firewood, briquettes, paper, shavings, branches andetc..
• Efficiency – 60÷70 % .
• Power – 5 kW.
• Volume of heated room - 100 m³.
• The oven has a top or rear connection.
• Diametr trchimney lips - 155 mm.
• Door opening type –side.
• Width – 310 mm.
• Height – 623 mm.
• Depth – 470 mm.
• Weight – 27 kg.
• Sizedoors: 420×395 mm.
• The model has the following functions:

- in the presence of ash drawer– air supply regulator.

The best fuel for this stove is chopped dry wood, which quickly flares up and effectively heats the walls of the device. The wood that produces the least soot and clogs the chimney is birch and aspen, but the logs need to be dried well after being brought into a warm room. It is also possible to use wet firewood, but they are less efficient in terms of heat transfer.

The hob is quite large and allows you to cook two dishes on it at once, which is quite comfortable in country conditions.

The model is lightweight, so it can even be installed on a wooden floor, previously protected with heat-resistant material.

The disadvantage of such a potbelly stove is the lack of a water circuit for the shower, but, if desired, it can be installed, although this process will require additional costs.

Stove-fireplace “NARWIK WT”

The steel stove, manufactured by the Polish manufacturer EuroKom, has a water circuit, which allows you to heat water for use in the shower or when washing dishes. The side walls of the housing are lined with ceramic tiles, which help retain heat and release it into the room for a longer period of time.

The firebox of the device is made of high-quality steel, 6 mm thick, and, in addition, the inside is lined with fireclay bricks, which protect the metal from burning and also retain heat well for many hours.

The stove has two niches - for drying firewood and for heating or cooking food. The design is equipped with a retractable ash drawer.

The operating principle of this furnace is based on natural circulation heat, and, in addition, thanks to the water circuit, thermal energy can be transferred through a pipeline to the adjacent room.

The small size and aesthetic appearance of the device allows it to be placed even in a small room.

The technical characteristics of this model indicate its effectiveness and comfortable use:

• Manufacturing material – steel.
• Finishing material – ceramics.
• Lining the firebox with fireclay bricks.
• Cast iron grate.
• Type of fuel – firewood.
• Efficiency – 78%.
• Power – 11 kW.
• Square heating– 85 m².
• Bakehas an upperconnection.
• Diametr trchimney ledge – 150 mm.
• Door opening type - swing
• The model has the following functions:

- system self-cleaning glass;

— air supply regulator;

— door blowing system;

— long burning mode – up to 8 hours;

— secondary combustion mode;

— equipped with a cast iron grill;

— panoramic view of the flame.

• Width – 590 mm.
• Height – 970 mm.
• Depth – 550 mm.
• Weight – 120 kg.
• The size of the firebox is 270×340×400 mm.

The manufacturer's warranty is 5 years.

Naturally, having such advanced capabilities, the stove cannot be cheap, so its price varies from 46,000 to 65,000 rubles.

Another, very miniature steel stove, is presented in this video:

Video: Wood-burning stove “Mini-Horizon”

Brick mini ovens

For those who do not recognize stoves other than brick ones, I would like to present two options for compact structures that are accessible in design even for self-construction.

First option

A small-sized oven equipped with a hob and a door with heat-resistant viewing glass.

This version of the heating structure is so compact and simple in design that even a novice craftsman can build it if he wants to install a brick stove in a country house. So that the work is of high quality and the furnace stays idle long years, it is necessary to follow the recommendations and adhere to the presented order schemes.

This oven has the following dimensions: width – 510 mm, depth – 640 mm and height – 2150 mm. The design has a single burner hob and an oven, which, if desired, can be replaced with drying chamber or hot water tank.

These dimensions assume a firebox depth of no more than 500 mm, and a chimney opening with a cross-section of one brick laid flat.

It should be noted that the presence of a hob and an oven not only allow you to prepare hot food, but also contribute to faster heating of the room where such a stove is installed.

To ensure the compactness of the stove, its design is designed in such a way that the firebox, cooking chamber, oven and smoke exhaust channels are located vertically. The heated air, along with the gases emitted by the fuel, passes outside the rear wall of the cooking chamber, and then enters the smoke exhaust channels and pipe.

This design consists of the following elements, numbered in the diagram below:

1 – ash pan or ash chamber;

2 – combustion chamber with cast iron door;

3 – single-burner cast iron hob;

4 – cooking chamber;

5 – metal corner and plates covering the cooking chamber and creating a base for the masonry;

6 – chamber for cleaning smoke exhaust channels;

7 – horizontal smoke circulation channel;

8 – oven;

9 – second chamber for cleaning internal channels;

10 – valve.

To build such a brick mini-stove, it is necessary to prepare the following materials and parts (without taking into account the construction of the foundation and chimney pipe):

• Red brick – 222 pieces;
• Fire door 200×200 mm – 1 pc.;
• Blower door 140×140 mm – 1 pc.;
• Cleaning doors – 2 pcs.;
• Cast iron hob with one burner 380×350 mm – 1 pc.;
• Oven 320×280×420 mm – 1 pc.;
• Gate valve -2 pcs.;
• Pre-furnace.;
• Flat slate panel 510×370 mm – 1 pc.;;
• Steel corner - 350×350×4 mm;
• Clay – 5 buckets;
• Refractory clay – 2 buckets;
• Sand – 14 buckets.

You might be interested in information on how to choose a wood burning stove

The design of the kiln itself consists of 31 rows of bricks laid flat. The pattern of row masonry can be clearly seen in the drawings presented below.

This figure shows the order from rows 1 to 11, and the linear parameters of the first row are indicated, that is, the basics that will need to be guided by when building the building in height.

A blower door is installed on the third row, and a grate is installed on the fifth row.

Before laying the sixth row, a fire door is installed and secured on the front brick of the fifth, which is then supported on both sides by bricks of the sixth row.

After installing the 11th row, stepping back from the back wall of the resulting well by the width of a brick, install a metal strip or corner, which will become the basis for laying the hob. Then, on top of the walls and metal lintel, a cast iron hob is laid.

The next part of the drawing clearly shows the masonry order from the 12th to the 22nd row.

Continuation of the masonry - ordering from the 12th to the 22nd row

From rows 12 to 15, the walls of the cooking chamber and the rear vertical smoke exhaust duct are exposed.

Having laid out the 15th row, metal corners or a slate sheet are laid on top of it, which forms the basis for further continuous masonry.

At 17- ohm a cleaning chamber door is installed in a row, which overlaps by 22 ohm row, and under it an empty space is formed, combined with the rear smoke exhaust duct.

The last part of the diagram shows the masonry from rows 23 to 31.

Completion of construction - ordering from the 23rd to the 32nd row

On the 24th row, pieces of asbestos are laid on the inner edges of the well. Then the oven box is wrapped with asbestos rope and installed in its intended place. Asbestos protection will protect the cabinet walls from burning out, and will also help retain heated air in it for a longer period.

At 28- ohm The cleaning chamber door is installed in a row and is immediately secured on both sides with brickwork.

On the 29th and 31st rows, chimney valves are installed in the masonry, and from the 32nd row, a chimney is being erected.

As you can see from the drawings, the scheme of this design is simple and easy to implement, but still, before starting laying on the mortar, experienced stove makers recommend assembling the stove dry.

To lay any heating brick stove, it is necessary to prepare a clay solution, which consists of one part water; four parts fatty clay and eight parts sand. Before mixing, the sand must be sifted, otherwise the mixture will turn out heterogeneous, which will interfere with the accuracy of the masonry. The solution is usually diluted at the rate of two buckets of mixture per 100 bricks.

Second option

This stove model is suitable for a dacha only if you need to provide efficient heating, since it is capable of fully heating two fairly large rooms. Therefore, such stoves are most often installed even as part of the wall, which serves as a partition for them. The design does not have a hob or oven, so it cannot be used to cook hot food or boil a kettle.

This model has the following parameters: width – 510 mm, depth – 890 mm, and height – 2380 mm.

You may be interested in information about what to consider when choosing

The furnace structure consists of the following elements (starting from the top):

— chimney valves;

— cleaning chamber with door;

— firebox door;

- ash pan or blower door;

- waterproofing material.

Such a stove consists of 35 rows of masonry, and for its construction the following materials and cast iron parts will be required (again, without taking into account the arrangement of the foundation and chimney):

• Red brick – 260 pcs.;
• Fireclay bricks for laying the firebox – 130 pcs.;
• Grate 250×400 mm – 1 pc.;
• Fire door 200×300 mm – 1 pc.;
• Blower door 140×200 mm – 1 pc.;
• Cleaning doors 140×200 mm – 2 pcs.;
• Gate valve – 2 pcs.;
• Pre-furnacemetal sheet 500×700 mm – 1 piece.;
• Roofing felt sheet for waterproofing 1000 × 600 mm – 2 pcs.;
• Clay – 6 buckets;
• Refractory clay – 3 buckets;
• Sand – 18 buckets.

The mortar for laying the stove is mixed in the same proportions as for the first model.

The order diagram consists of three parts, which will make it easy to understand the construction of the structure.

The first part represents the masonry from the 1st to the 12th row. Here you also need to pay special attention to the dimensional parameters of the first row, which will need to be guided throughout the entire work using a plumb line and a building level.

Ordering - from 1st to 12th row

The first row is laid on roofing felt laid in two layers on the foundation. To more accurately lay out the first row, markings can be made with chalk on the waterproofing material.

A blower door is installed on the second row, and a vertical smoke exhaust channel begins to form.

A grate is placed on the fifth row, covering the blower chamber. The masonry, starting from this row and ending with the 15th, is made with fireclay bricks.

On the sixth row, the combustion door is installed and secured with wire. Further work proceeds according to the scheme.

You might be interested in information about what wood burning is like

The second part of the diagram represents the order from the 13th to the 24th row.

The middle part of the oven - from the 13th to the 24th row

These diagrams show the gradual formation of the combustion chamber and vertical channels, so it is very important to adhere to the exact repetition of the drawing in compliance with the dimensions of the brick. Having laid out the 16th row, on 15- ohm lay down layer of clay-cement mortar, which will strengthen the bottom of the cleaning chamber, and then the door itself will be installed.

The last part of the diagram represents the order of the masonry from the 25th to the 35th row.

The final stage - from the 25th to the 35th row

On the 25th row, the bottom surface of the second cleaning chamber is sealed - for this, a layer of clay-sand mortar is laid on the brick surface. The cleaning chamber door is also installed on the same row.

On the 28th and 32nd rows, two valves are installed, with the help of which the draft will be adjusted. These tools allow you to solve the problem if it suddenly appears.

From the 35th row, a chimney with a cross-section of half a brick begins to rise.

If you want to install a brick stove in your dacha, you can find other models of these structures, however, if you lack experience, you should not choose structures that have complex internal masonry patterns, since at first you can easily get confused in their configuration.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Video: example of dry-laying a miniature brick oven for a summer residence

When making a choice in favor of a particular stove, you need to take into account all the “pros” and “cons” of materials, operational features of structures, and also make a list of criteria that you should rely on. read our article.

Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor

Modern market heating equipment offers a variety of heating options various types premises and food preparation. The most popular among urban and rural residents are metal stoves for the home, which are characterized by their compact size, ease of installation and mobility. Most often they are used as an additional or backup heating source; some models are equipped with heating and cooking functionality or combined with a fireplace.

Brick stoves gain temperature much more slowly and release it to the surrounding space (as a rule, this takes from 4 hours); they heat only the room in which they are located. In contrast, metal ones allow you to warm up the entire house in 30 minutes and, being long-burning devices, can operate for several hours without supervision and refilling with fuel. Such stoves are made of fire-resistant steel or cast iron. The basis of the design is: an ash pan, a firebox, a chimney and a valve in the pipe.

Products from famous manufacturers

1. Teplodar.

The most popular in the domestic market are Teplodar metal heating stoves for the home, which have high efficiency, which is due to the special design of the combustion chamber. There are options, such as Vertical, with an increased long-burning mode, thanks to which the equipment operates for 8 hours without the need to add logs. The hob of the metal Pechurka is equipped with removable cast iron rings to accommodate cauldrons of different sizes.

Some of the home stoves of the TOP model and Matrix series, in addition to the main functions, act as a fireplace, due to the presence of fireproof glass in the metal doors, which allows you to admire the flame and control the process of fuel combustion. The T-80, at the request of the customer, is equipped with a modular smoke exhaust, which is placed in its firebox when the stove is moved. Heating devices from the Teplodar company are designed to heat houses of 80–300 m3, depending on which prices fluctuate, ranging from 7,000 to 22,000 rubles.

No less worthy stoves are produced in Belgium by Efel. It is a leading company among other European manufacturers in the field of home heating technologies, which is due to the use of high-quality metal alloys in the manufacture of stoves. The popular Harmony models, with a power of 12.5 kW, provide a significantly larger amount of heat with standard wood consumption and retain it for a long time. Both wood and coal are used as fuel in home stoves. The burning duration is about 10 hours, which allows you to leave the equipment running all night. Cost 133,155 rubles.

The Bayard 12 stove belongs to the classic heating models, but is additionally equipped with a hob for cooking. Carbon monoxide emissions are only 0.28%. Available for 110,190 rubles. In general, this company offers metal wood stoves for your home at prices ranging from 113,000 to 222,000.

4. EcoFireplace.

Thanks to modern technologies, the Ecofireplace company has created safe heating devices, combining elegance and ease of use. They heat the entire house evenly due to their manufacture from high quality steel. The facade of Ecofireplace stoves is decorated with tiles, which attracts many buyers. The Bavaria Arch wall model has a cast iron grate and doors with large heat-resistant glass, which increases the view of the flame. Characteristic features are economical fuel consumption (wood is mainly used), a self-cleaning glass mechanism and ceramic tiles located on the sides of the metal body. You can buy it for 40,000 rubles.

The EcoKamin Bavaria Baroque stove is equipped with a cast iron hob. The combustion chamber is lined with fireclay, the body is made of fire-resistant steel 6 mm thick. The efficiency reaches 78% due to the special design of the convection channels. Tile coating increases heat capacity metal device and reducing the volume of loaded fuel. Cost 50,000 rubles.

Meta produces wood-burning stoves for the home, adapted to the Russian climate. All models of the manufacturer are equipped with a hob. Durable cast iron burners provide the opportunity not only to cook food, but also to warm up the space by opening access to the fire. Meta ovens are characterized by high operating safety, a wide range of models and compact dimensions. The Narva series has ceramic lining on the sides, the metal body is coated with fire-resistant paint. The stove is equipped with an ash drawer, an open firewood box, and a glass firebox door, the surface of which is lined with fireclay tiles. With a power of only 6 kW, it heats a house with an area of ​​60 m2. Available at a budget price of 20,000 rubles

The Meta Gnome 2 oven is the most compact model from this manufacturer. With dimensions of 363x502x640 mm and a weight of 38 kg, it has a power of 5 kW - this is enough to heat a house of 50 m2. Due to the long legs and the distance from the floor of the combustion chamber, it practically does not heat the floor surface, which increases the fire safety of the stove. It is distinguished by the presence of a removable cast iron cooking circle, which allows you to cook food. Costs 6,700 rubles.

6. Termofor.

The range of Russian stoves from the Termofor company includes a large number of items. Among them there are small-sized options with heating and cooking functionality (Selenga, Avoska, Pichuga, Cinderella, Student and others), which are easily portable if desired, as well as types that serve purely for heating the house (Normal, Turbo and air-heating boilers: Professor Butakov , Assistant professor). The latter are distinguished by their large dimensions and are mounted permanently together with chimneys. Price range from 12,000 to 50,000 rubles.

Judging by the reviews of the stoves, the Selenga model, made in an oriental style, decorates almost any interior. In addition, fine adjustment of combustion intensity helps to save fuel consumption. The stove has a drawer for ash, with which you can quickly and accurately remove the remains of used wood, without interrupting the combustion process. Thanks to the glass-ceramic surface, the device acts as an additional light source. Having a power of only 5 kW, the Selenga stove allows you to heat a house with a volume of 85 m3. The average cost is 27,000 rubles.

Features of choice

They mainly focus on the design of furnaces, depending on the functions performed. If you want to not only heat the room, but also cook food, you should pay attention to heating and cooking types. Domestic stoves can be placed both in residential and ancillary buildings (greenhouse, garage, bathhouse). If it is intended to be used for a country house, then proceed from the heating rate of the stove. It is also recommended to determine the appropriate power depending on the size of the house and pay attention to the location of the stove elements (distance of the legs from the floor, and so on).

Customers' opinions

“I took the Termofor Normal stove for my country house. I appreciated the presence of a replaceable cast iron grate and the fact that the upper surface can accommodate several units of dishes - now you can heat up tea and cook food at the same time. There is not a single visible weld on the stove - it looks very nice and neat. And this is for only 8,000 rubles! I am delighted".

Dmitry, Kazan.

“And in our village we have both a brick oven and a metal one. We use the first one when we come there for a couple of days, because although it heats up for a long time (5 hours), it then keeps the house warm for a day. But the metal one is convenient if you need to warm up the room for a short time; it reaches the required temperature in 30 minutes, but also cools down just as quickly - if you heat it during the day, then by night it will be cold again.”

Elena Petrova, Moscow.

“I installed a Teplodar T-80 stove in my wooden house. At first it did an excellent job of heating a volume of 70 m3, but by the beginning of this winter it began to smoke and the draft disappeared. I tried to clean the chimney - to no avail. The problem was solved by specialists, but a month later the situation repeated itself. I read reviews from other buyers - it turned out that the stove was poorly designed, which is why the wood does not burn completely and then the chimney becomes clogged with soot. I’m disappointed, it’s probably easier to buy another one than to repair it again.”

Pavel, St. Petersburg.

"When we moved to a private house, my parents gave me a Gnome-3 stove from Meta. I liked the presence of a hob - we rarely cook, so there was no need to buy one gas stove. This stove is also equipped with fire-resistant glass, which makes it convenient to control the process of burning wood and observe the flame. I won’t say that it looks very chic, but we are quite happy with it, especially for such a price.”

Elena, Moscow.

Advantages

• Light weight. There is no need to build a strong foundation, which saves on installation costs.
• Mobility - easily moved to a new place.
• Compactness of modern ovens with high power.
• Easy installation of the chimney, as well as the opportunity to use the services of specialists for a modest fee.
• A variety of design solutions - it’s possible to choose a metal stove option for any home interior.
• Instant warm-up - just 20-30 minutes is enough.
• Reliability of furnaces due to the use of high-strength materials.
• Low fuel consumption during operation.
• Affordable prices - you can save several times when compared with organizing brick ones.

© When using site materials (quotes, images), the source must be indicated.

Metal furnaces have a row in front undoubted advantages and equally significant shortcomings. The former include an order of magnitude smaller or more price, high efficiency, low weight, high strength and developed technology for processing the source material – metal. To the second - lack of “breathing”, limited service life, increased danger and short heat transfer after heating. These factors give some consequences that should be discussed in more detail before starting to disassemble the metal furnaces themselves.

Advantages

Metal is a much more malleable material than ceramics, but is comparable in strength. Metal can be melted and cast, drilled, cut, bent, forged; after molding the part, it does not necessarily require additional energy expenditure for firing it. There are many known methods for producing and processing metal, and their scientific and production base is huge. Therefore, when creating a metal furnace, you can use various theoretical and design tricks with virtually no restrictions to improve its technical and operational parameters without a significant increase in price. If the average limit for the KPL season brick kilns is about 70%, then for metal 85-90% is not unusual.

Note: Based on modern environmental conditions, you need to strive to achieve a furnace efficiency of at least 70%

Specific, per unit cross section, the strength of brick and ceramics in general drops sharply with decreasing thickness of the part, while for metal, on the contrary, it increases. As a result, such important stove indicators as weight and cost per unit of generated heat are 10-20 times or more lower for metal stoves than for brick stoves. A good new metal stove for heating 100 sq. m of living space can be purchased for $250-300, and used for $50.

In addition, a metal furnace - one-piece design, it can be transported ready for use, tilted, pushed, hit, even dropped, without rendering it unusable. That is, the metal furnace is mobile. At the site of operation, it does not require a foundation, and its installation is reduced to the outlet of the chimney into the smoke duct of the building. Once the need has passed, the stove can be removed and stored until the next time.

The thermal conductivity of the metal is high, and the total heat capacity of the furnace made from it is small due to its small mass. Therefore, a metal stove warms up quickly and heats the room just as quickly. The same factor gives high efficiency: in a brick kiln, up to 20% of the fuel energy flies into the pipe during combustion, until internal heat exchange is established in the massive body of the kiln and it begins to accumulate heat.

Further, a metal product is physically more uniform than brickwork, and not porous. A metal stove does not get damp, is not afraid of long breaks in the firebox, and does not require boost firing after downtime. The virtual absence, due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal, of internal heat flows in the body of the furnace causes the rapid combustion of flue gases in a small volume of space, which makes it easier to integrate a hob and water heating devices into the furnace.

Finally, and importantly for private owners, a factory-made metal stove can be pre-certified for fire safety as a finished product. Obtaining permission from firefighters to use it in this case is immeasurably easier, both in terms of nerves and money. There are models of industrially produced metal furnaces that do not require registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations at all, as long as the building has a gas duct separate from the ventilation.

Flaws

The main disadvantage of metal stoves is the lack of “breathing”. As the brick oven cools, it absorbs moisture vapor, and when fired, releases it into the air. Therefore, in a house with brick-stove heating, the relative humidity of the air is automatically maintained within optimal health limits. A metal stove can be made to “breathe” a little by lining it with brick, steatite (“soapstone”, soapstone slate), basalt or plasterboard, but the effect will be weaker, the strength of the stove will decrease, and its mobility will completely disappear.

Due to the low total heat capacity, the heat transfer of the furnace after firing does not exceed 2-3 hours. A metal stove must either be heated all the time, or be made in the form. Both are constant sources of fire. When installing a stove in a residential area, this creates a 24-hour risk of fumes. In addition, a metal stove can become red-hot during operation, which creates a fire and injury hazard. Therefore, the Ministry of Emergency Situations certifies home-made metal stoves with great difficulty, and only those intended for installation in isolated non-residential premises.

The third significant drawback of metal stoves is their short service life, compared to brick ones. Chemically, metal is much less resistant than ceramics, and at high temperatures it reacts even more actively with substances that can damage it. The service life of a metal stove with regular firing rarely exceeds 20 years; however, this pays off in reduced fuel costs and the ability to replace the furnace without repairing the building.

About metal for the furnace

As we can see, it is the physical and chemical properties of the metal for the furnace that largely determine its quality. Whether the stove is purchased ready-made or manufactured independently, the first attention should be paid to it.

Surrogates

In popular sources you can find descriptions of stoves made of... aluminum milk cans. But for a more or less acceptable furnace efficiency, it is necessary to burn the flue gases. In this case, the temperature develops at least 400 degrees Celsius, and in furnaces that meet environmental requirements, at least 600. The melting point of aluminum is 660 Celsius; temperature limit of strength is 140 for structural aluminum and 160-210 for aluminum alloys. On this The issue of aluminum stoves can be considered closed.

Regular steel

The temperature limit of strength and durability of conventional structural steels is about 400 degrees with prolonged exposure; at 2 hours 600. The steel on the furnace is 4 mm thick. But even in this case, we cannot talk about regular use: in frosty regions, where intensive heating is needed, the stove may burn out before the end of winter. Some exceptions are long-burning furnaces; their individual designs make it possible to avoid prolonged heating of the furnace body above 600 degrees, and the highly heated parts in them are massive and replaceable. Such stoves are most often made by hand; Some popular designs will be described below.

Heat-resistant steels

Metal furnaces for industrial production are made of heat-resistant and heat-resistant steel. Modern special steels with a thickness of 1.5-3 mm make it possible to obtain a furnace service life of up to 20 years or more, its light weight, and the combination of heat capacity and thermal conductivity of furnace steels with the correct design guarantees high efficiency, up to 80%. Branded steel stoves for sale are certified according to the requirements of the Ministry of Emergency Situations; in terms of fire and injury safety, they are quite suitable for the home. Their installation is most often possible simply on the floor and only requires connection to the chimney. In most cases, they are equipped with a hob and a low-power hot water register for hot water supply.

At first glance, the design of such furnaces can be repeated. But to make something like this yourself, even if you have the material, you need to have at least a fairly complex TIG/MIG welding technology and expensive equipment for it. Attempts to cook heat-resistant stainless steel using artisanal methods are pointless: after melting under an arc, the steel loses its quality and the stove cracks at the seams faster than a tin potbelly stove will burn out.

Nevertheless, It is quite possible to make a stove yourself using heat-resistant steels, and this will greatly increase its reliability and durability. We are talking about air distribution devices for long-burning furnaces of the “Slobozhanki” type, see below for more details. You will need little expensive material; you can also pick up scraps. And in this case the connections can be made using lugs, rivets or rebates.

Cast iron

Cast iron in a stove is both metal and non-metal. What remains of the metal in it is its low cost and the ability to move the stove carefully, without dropping or hitting it. Cast iron is similar to brick not only in its fragility, but also in its low thermal conductivity for metal combined with good heat capacity. Cast iron stoves can heat up for up to 3 hours after heating, but they also take at least 40 minutes to warm up.

The cast iron on the stove is 6-25 mm thick. You can't go any thinner, the stove will be too fragile. But it’s also impossible to be thicker, the temperature coefficient of expansion (TCE) of cast iron is completely metallic, and with a “brick” wall thickness, the stove will crack when fired. Therefore, cast iron stoves are heavy, you cannot place them directly on the floor; you need to dismantle its flooring to the screed and build it up to the floor level. And the “brick” qualities of a cast iron stove appear only when heating small ones, up to 60 cubic meters. m, premises. In large walls, due to the low thermal conductivity of the walls, the efficiency of the furnace will be negligible.

Cast iron does not breathe like brick, but its chemical resistance approaches that of ceramics. Cast iron, like metal, is not afraid of interruptions in the firebox and damp air. Therefore, it is advisable to use cast iron stoves for heating utility rooms with delicate small animals: poultry houses, rabbit hutches, small greenhouses.

Cast iron, as is known, after casting in a factory is artisanal machining is not subject to. All a homemaker can do with a cast iron stove is paint the purchased one.. Painting stoves, by the way, is also not an easy job, see below.

Selection of scheme and type

What is a stove?

Since we're talking about ovens as such, let's decide what we're dealing with; There is more confusion than clarity in the classification of stoves. For example, a combustion channel furnace is considered a furnace with forced circulation of flue gases, and a bell-type furnace is considered a furnace with free circulation. But what freedom is there for the flue gases if the roof of the cap prevents them from going up and the same cap, absorbing their heat, forces them to descend to the chimney located below in the most unnatural way? The only heating and cooking device with completely free circulation is a fire on the ground.

On the other hand, the definition of “forced” implies the presence of a supercharger or a smoke exhauster, or both. Finally, the use of heat from the same source in the same device at different times is possible for different purposes. And the source of heat and its transmitter where it should go does not necessarily have to be fuel and flue gases.

Therefore, we define a furnace as a device in which the heat flow from a compact heat source is directed to a thermal energy receiver by technical means within one integral device without the use of separate heat transfer lines. A kitchen wood-burning fireplace, an electric-arc melting furnace, a laboratory muffle stove, and a camp solar stove would all fit this definition.

Household ovens

We are interested in household heating and cooking stoves. Let's look at them first in general, and then take into account the features of our material - metal. The basic diagrams of the design of household stoves are shown in Fig.

Chamber

On the left pos. diagram of the oldest furnace as such - a chamber furnace. In it, flue gases from the firebox are passed into the gas chamber, where they burn out due to natural circulation. Also, outside air naturally flows into the burning fuel. It's basically a fire in a cave.

In modern industrial chamber furnaces, it is difficult for a specialist to recognize their primitive ancestor, but with household ones it is easier; here the firebox with the afterburning chamber are combined into one module - the crucible. For effective afterburning, the chamber must be vaulted. "Primitive" chamber furnaces, with some improvements, can be very effective. An example is one that has survived to this day.

Duct

On the middle position. – channel furnace. Flue gases, first burning out and then gradually cooling, pass through the channels between the partitions, giving off heat to the body of the furnace. Perhaps this is why a channel furnace is considered “forced”; the path of gases in it is physically organized. Until such a furnace warms up inside to at least 400 degrees, there is no afterburning at all, and then it stretches from the firebox to the chimney, and it is very difficult to achieve an efficiency of over 60% here.

Kolpakovaya

On the right is a bell furnace. The flue gases in it are retained under the arch of the hood until they burn out, and then they fall down along its walls, giving off the remaining heat. When kindling, only a small area of ​​the bell roof needs to be heated to start afterburning, so a bell-type furnace can provide an efficiency of over 70%

Applied to metal

The ratio of the thermal conductivity of metal to its heat capacity is tens of times higher than that of brick. Therefore, metal is a lousy heat storage device. As it absorbs it, it quickly heats up to high temperature, and then cools down just as quickly.

But if you accurately take into account the properties of the material, metal heating stoves can be made according to classical schemes, and higher parameters can be achieved from them, because Heat losses for warming up the furnace during heating are minimal. And the high cohesiveness of the metal structure makes it possible to apply the principles of fuel combustion, which for brick kilns are either completely unfeasible or feasible with great difficulty. The basic diagrams of metal household stoves are shown in Fig.

Chamber

Metal chamber furnace - pos. A. Do you recognize it? . Its ancestors, indoor stoves, appeared at the beginning of the 19th century, but were distinguished by their rare gluttony; however, fuel then cost a pittance. The devastation after the revolution in Russia forced the “former specialists” to improve the potbelly stove, and that’s when it got its name. The following has been improved:

• To adjust the power according to the weather, a grate with a blower and its door was built into the furnace.
• The chimney was made low, up to 2.5-3 m from the level of the grate.
• The chimney diameter was taken to be approximately 7-9 mm per 1 kW of thermal power, in terms of modern units of measurement.
• The initial section of the chimney, about 1-1.5 m, was made vertical and wrapped in thermal insulation.
• Next came a horizontal piece of the chimney - a hog - at least 2.5 m long, it was brought out into the window and extended with a vertical section, also 1-1.5 m, providing draft.

The role of the furnace arch on the minimum firebox was played by the first vertical isolated section of the chimney - the gas economizer, in which the flue gases burned out. At maximum, the throughput of the chimney was less than the volume of gases generated in the firebox. In this case, a vortex arose in the furnace, providing the main afterburning, and the stove became self-regulating: the gases went into the chimney only after completely burning out. Heat transfer to the room is approximately 25% provided by the heated body of the furnace and 75% by convection from the hot hog. At the chimney outlet the temperature of the gases is above 100 degrees, so condensation (see below) is excluded. Cleaning the chimney from soot is required no more than once a year and is not difficult, since the chimney is collapsible. The efficiency of the stove is up to 60% using dry wood or coal.

Duct

It is easy to adapt a potbelly stove to a channel scheme, but the similarity with a brick channel stove remains only external. Firstly, due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal, the developed labyrinth of gas ducts will be of no use, so only one horizontal bend remains. And its role is completely different: a partition separates the afterburning chamber from the firebox. The secondary air required for it enters either through the cracks in the burner on the hob, or through a separate air throttle regulator. The exit to the chimney is horizontal. These improvements produced the following:

1. Efficiency due to afterburning concentrated in one place increased to 70-80%
2. Specific by volume thermal power furnaces increased 2-3 times.
3. The stove is not critical to the amount of draft and, in general, to the parameters of the chimney, like a regular potbelly stove: the draft increases, the combustion in the firebox increases, but also the vacuum in the afterburner. More secondary air will pass into it and the gases will still burn out completely.
4. Since the main heat is generated in the afterburner, the furnace can operate in both flame and long-term combustion modes.
5. Heat transfer through a thin metal partition from the firebox to the afterburner immediately provides it with the flash point of unburned gases, so the furnace enters mode almost instantly, which further increases its efficiency.
6. Separate adjustment of the air supply to the firebox and afterburner allows you to configure the stove for almost any type of solid fuel.
7. The power of the furnace can be regulated not by the amount of fuel loading, but by the air supply. In a potbelly stove, the ability to adjust the power with air is very limited, no more than 2-2.5 times.
8. The temperature of the cooking surface, due to the homogeneity of thermochemical processes in the afterburner, is kept within 250-300 degrees, which is quite suitable for cooking.
9. The high intensity of heat release in the oven allows for quick and uniform heating of the room by convection.
10. At the outlet of the chimney, you can install a hot water heat exchanger without fear of deterioration of the furnace parameters and increased soot deposition.
11. With good wood fuel or coal, chimney cleaning is required only once every 4-5 years.

Modern heating and cooking household stoves of low (up to 12-15 kW) power are almost all built according to this scheme. When making it yourself, you need to make an afterburner from heat-resistant steel in the form of a trough open at the top (partition + side walls). In this case, ordinary steel from 4 mm will be used for the stove body, and cast iron or steel from 8 mm will be used for the hob. The plate must be made removable, especially steel, because from the heat and thermochemistry in the afterburner it will last a year or two.

Long burning

The use of an effective bell-type scheme in relation to metal made it necessary to abandon the flame: no metal bell will absorb, without overheating, as much heat as it emits. We had to switch the stoves to smoldering mode, which at the same time made it possible to increase the heat transfer time to 60-72 hours from one load of firewood or to 20-30 days (!) on coal. We will discuss long-burning furnaces in more detail below, and a simplified diagram, without an air supply system and technological hatches, is shown in:

• Fuel mass 1 smolders in a thin surface layer 2, and air is supplied here in one way or another.
• During the smoldering process, pyrolysis, the thermal decomposition of solid fuel into flammable volatile components, plays a significant role.
• Combustion of volatiles occurs in the space under the furnace lid (“hood”) 3, and up to 60% of the heat is released here.
• If it is necessary to obtain a furnace efficiency of more than 70%, it is equipped with a gas jacket 4, here the flue gases burn out in the usual way. The air required for this is sucked in at the pass from the fuel chamber into the gas jacket.

Long-burning stoves with a simple design can provide an efficiency of up to 80% or more, and the temperature in any place rarely exceeds 600 degrees. Therefore, homemade metal stoves, except for, are mostly made according to this scheme. When taking on such a design, you need to consider the following:

1. Although long-burning furnaces operate on any solid fuel from sawdust to coal, they will show the calculated (or verified on an experimental design) parameters only on the fuel for which they were designed. For example, HF is heated on coal, just like with wood, for up to 3 days. A special coal boiler, also slow burning, with the same amount of coal - up to 20. But it is not capable of working with wood at all.
2. The products of complete combustion of organic fuel are carbon dioxide and water, regardless of the degree of its water content; this process is akin to the formation of metabolic water in living organisms. Gases enter the chimney of long-burning furnaces very cool, because The efficiency of the furnace is high, and the temperature in the firebox is low. Therefore, abundant condensate, which is very toxic, forms in the chimney, and the chimney design must contain a collector with the ability to drain it.
3. Long-burning stoves do not tolerate wet fuel; As you know, something that is wet does not smolder, no matter how much air you give it.
4. It is impossible to add more fuel to the stove until the previous load has completely burned out, with one exception, see below. Opening the lid or loading hatch of a half-burnt furnace is deadly: pyrolysis gases are chemically aggressive and poisonous!

Note: directly above the smoldering zone, the furnace body becomes red-hot, but this does not prevent it from being made from ordinary steel. As it burns out, the hot zone moves down and the duration of exposure of the metal to the maximum temperature does not exceed the permissible 3 hours.

The oven body can be made from any suitable round steel container, e.g. from a barrel. But surrounding it with a sealed gas jacket is already more difficult. In any case, such a stove heats primarily by radiation, which is not very good. The solution is to surround the furnace body, at a distance of 70-80 mm from it, with a hot water register in the form of a coil or a ring-shaped tank. Convection will intensify and there will be hot water in the shower and in the kitchen. It is only necessary to provide a storage tank with a capacity of approximately 10 l/kW, otherwise the system will boil.

Oil-pyrolysis

Such an effective thermochemical process as pyrolysis could not help but develop independently among DIYers who were eager to experiment. They, as a rule, accumulate some reserves of waste heavy flammable liquids, for example. working off. This is how metal pyrolysis was born.

The oil burns in the tank, where primary air is supplied through the throttle - power regulator (also known as the filling hole). The combustion is weak, it is only needed to evaporate the fuel. Its vapors rise into the pyrolysis column - a pipe with perforated walls; Secondary air passes through the perforation holes. It enters the mixing zone in excess.

In the pyrolysis zone of the column, fuel vapors burn, but the heat from this is mostly spent on the decomposition of the fuel into light volatile components, which burn in the combustion zone; approximately 35% of useful heat is released here. The other 35%, from heavy residues that escaped pyrolysis, are released in the afterburner.

In the afterburner, there is an incomplete partition inside, either horizontal or vertical. Why is she? In the combustion zone of the column, due to excess oxygen, a high temperature, up to 1000 degrees, develops. In this case, endothermic nitrogen oxides are formed. They are toxic and their formation requires a lot of fuel energy.

At temperatures above 700 degrees, nitrogen oxides are stable and in the zone of oxygen afterburning of heavy radicals will remain as they were. If you let them cool quickly, they will pass the peak of instability of their phase diagram and fly away into the chimney, taking away the efficiency of the furnace. In order for nitrogen oxides to disintegrate on their own, releasing the energy spent on them, they need to be detained in a zone with a temperature of 450-600 degrees. It is this that forms behind the partition before exiting into the chimney. Why? A vortex arises there.

Note: No one really measured the efficiency of furnaces during testing. Only the fuel consumption for heating a standard garage 4x7x2.2 m is known. It is 1.5-2.5 l/hour.

Sometimes a garage potbelly stove is made with a round blower with a diameter along the outer diameter of the oil stove column and placed on high legs. A tank with a column is left from the oil pyrolysis furnace, and the column itself is made in the form of an arc with a horizontal outlet. Then, as waste accumulates, the potbelly stove is used as an afterburner for the pyrolysis furnace. The output of the column is inserted into the ash pan, and the oil stove is ready. The work is over - we heat it again with wood/coal.

Note: It is in principle possible to refuel the furnace during mining, but it is dangerous. In general, these stoves are an incendiary time bomb with a fuse set for an unknown period. Fire regulations prohibit their use in everyday life and they are not widely sold.

About shielding furnaces

A steel furnace becomes very hot during operation and heats to a large extent with thermal (infrared, IR) radiation. This is undesirable for residential premises: it blows into the face and freezes the back. They are preferably heated by convection. In addition, you can get seriously burned on a hot stove.

How to turn IR into a stream warm air? It’s very simple: surround the stove from the sides with a screen made of metal sheet at a distance of 70-100 mm from the stove and with the same gap from the floor.

You can come across statements: they say that an iron screen is useless, metal for IR is the same as glass. Firstly, the metal begins to transmit electromagnetic radiation from X-rays and higher frequencies. Secondly, not like window glass, but like milk glass, partially and diffusely. And for IR, any metal is opaque, but reflects diffusely about half of them. In the IR photo, the metal sheet looks light gray.

Let's say an IR flow of unit power falls from the furnace onto the screen. 0.5 of it will be reflected back, and the remaining 0.5 will be radiated by the screen in both directions, back and out. In total, only a quarter will come out. This is a rough diagram, if the screen gets very hot and its temperature approaches the temperature of the oven, the proportion of external radiation increases; to 1 for equal temperatures.

When calculating the screen, it must be coordinated with the heat capacity and viscosity of the air, so that the heat between the screen and the furnace generates intense convection, which cools the screen. With the dimensions indicated above, the external temperature of the screen will not exceed 70 degrees and heat transfer by convection will be at least 85% of the thermal power of the furnace.

Note: It is better to make the screen sliding in width, in the form of 2 L-shaped halves, and on separate legs. Then, by moving/moving the sidewalls, you can adjust the gap between it and the stove according to the firebox mode.

The internal partition in the furnace will be poorly shielded, because... the temperatures in the furnace and afterburner are close. But upward radiation from the hob is not dangerous and does not suppress convection. It is simply impossible to screen the front: there are doors and an approach to the stove. It remains to decide what to do with the radiation down from the bottom of the furnace; there is no point in heating the flammable floor in vain.

This problem can also be solved without any particular difficulties: we deepen the ash pan down from the ash door and lay it on a dry surface, without mortar, with a brick. You can fill it with broken bricks or sand, but then when you remove the ash you will have to rake out and throw away the backfill. If we combine all these methods into one, we get the shielding circuit shown in Fig. higher.

Shielding for baths

Specific, per unit volume of room, power sauna stoves 3-5 times higher than indoor ones, and the walls of a normal bathhouse are wooden, which do not conduct heat well. Therefore, rapid heating of the bath can be ensured only by convection, on the one hand. On the other hand, a metal sauna stove produces too much heat for the same reason that it does not breathe. Based on this, we make a brick screen for the bathhouse stove; half a brick of masonry is enough. It is only necessary to lay out the first row at intervals to ensure convection, as shown in Fig. on right.

Screening for a summer residence

The country house is also small, empty in winter and there is no need to heat it to bathing temperature. Therefore, a country stove can, in principle, be shielded like a bathhouse. But it’s better not to be lazy, install a hot water storage tank in the attic, and surround the stove for the dacha, like a screen, with its water heater, see fig. left. Water absorbs the infrared completely, and while people stretch their hands, frozen in the garden, to the stove and then eat sandwiches, a kettle will boil on the hob, and enough water will accumulate in the tank for a shower.

Note: Shielding the stove bottom from the inside with a heat-intensive material gives an additional advantage here - you can put your shoes under the stove to dry without fear that they will dry out and crack.

The development of the idea of ​​a convector screen was the appearance of heater stoves. They are initially designed so that as much of the heat as possible is converted into the energy of the heated air flow. To do this, the convector is built into the firebox or a precisely calculated screen is made integral with the furnace body.

The most famous model of this kind is or simply a buller (left and middle positions in the figure). In the Russian Federation, bullers are produced under license under the brand name “Breneran”. The features of the buller are:

• Buleryan – exceptionally long burning. The flame mode is an emergency for it, and all attempts to adapt the bullers to any other type of fuel have so far been unsuccessful.
• Fuel-regime choosiness made it possible to supply air to the firebox through one throttle. Air enters the afterburner partly in a mixture with flue gases, partly through a perforated partition between the firebox and the afterburner.
• A well-thought-out design and optimal configuration of the entire furnace allow power adjustment within a wide range, by 10-12 times.
• The firebox, rounded in cross-section, and a convector built into it 2/3 deep from banks of pipes provide powerful convection (6 cubic m/min per 1 kW of firebox power) without a significant deterioration in the efficiency of the furnace.
• The temperature of the air leaving the batteries and the outer surface of the furnace does not exceed 70 degrees.
• When the power is reduced by the throttle, the temperature of the outlet air drops faster than its flow, i.e. at lower power the buller heats just as quickly, but weaker.

The duration of heat transfer from Buleryan from one full load of fuel is 8-12 hours. Serial bullers are produced with a power of 10-200 kW. The efficiency of the buller is about 60% By surrounding the stove with a screen, it can be increased to 66-67%, while the temperature of the outer surface of the screen will be about 55 degrees. The temperature inside the buller never exceeds 600 degrees, so it is quite possible to make it yourself from ordinary steel, but you cannot make it from a kondachka.

The secret of the buller is the precise internal balance of heat and air. Take away too little heat to convection - the oven will produce little hot, dry air. Take away too much - the fuel will not burn properly, a lot of ash and soot will form, and the efficiency of the stove will drop. It’s the same with air: the configuration and size ratio of all parts of the furnace ensure automatic redistribution of air flows inside according to the combustion mode. But a step to the right, a step to the left - again there is ash, soot, gluttony and little warmth.

Therefore, it is better not to try to calculate the buller yourself, guided by basic information about heating engineering. You can repeat a proven design, but keep the dimensions exactly, follow the instructions and follow the specifications. The length and configuration of the chimney are not critical, but it requires a condensate collector, because... the flue gas temperature is low.

Bullers are usually used for heating industrial premises in which uniform heating in volume to a comfortable or technological temperature is required: greenhouses, greenhouses, nurseries of heat-loving animals. However, by installing a buller of suitable power in the basement, you can ensure air heating a private house of almost any size: a large number of convector nozzles (from 7 to 23-25) allows you to organize uniform distribution of heat throughout the rooms. The nozzles of the furnace batteries are simply coupled with air ducts made of cheap thin-walled corrugation, and installing a system of air ducts in the house is easier and cheaper than installing pipes and water heating registers. In addition, there is no need for complex, expensive, energy-dependent and maintenance-intensive water boiler piping.

In Russia, many similar designs sprang from the buller; one of the most famous is the “Professor Butakov” line of stoves, right pos. in Fig. “Butakovs” are multi-fuel, their efficiency is higher than that of a buller, they have a cooking surface, but here, in an article for home-made workers, they are worth mentioning only in passing: the construction made of special steel is designed exclusively for industrial production. In addition, “Butakovs” can only heat 1 room well: it is very difficult to connect air ducts to the output of their batteries.

About air heating

Air heating is optimal for individual houses with 1-2 floors. The number of floors of a house rapidly consumes its efficiency, which is why it fell out of use in cramped medieval cities, although rich estates in ancient times were heated with air.

Its widespread implementation in the private sector is actually hampered only by the lack of legalized norms, rules, recommendations and engineering calculation methods. However, for do-it-yourselfers with an experimental streak, this is a plus: since it’s not prohibited, it means it’s possible, as long as the buller itself is certified. Do as you want and know how, without fear of sanctions: why punish if it is not in the law at all?

Slow DIYs

If there are no parts in the potbelly stove and its relatives, the rough or careless manufacture of which would completely ruin the stove, then the buller already provides an example that you need to be careful with long-burning stoves. They contain components, a small error in the execution of which will make the stove not only bad, but also dangerous. Therefore, we will dwell on slow-burning stoves in more detail; 2 popular and 1 promising designs are shown in Fig.

Pos. A - the famous bubafonya, a homemade product based on the Latvian oil shale boiler Stropuva. It belongs to furnaces with a closed smoldering zone, so its efficiency is 70%, and with a gas jacket it is over 75%. Air is supplied through the “pancake” pressure to the center of the combustion zone. The increased efficiency is due to the fact that the pyrolysis gases burn out under pressure, so it should be either made of special steel or thick, 8-12 mm. The second feature as a result of closed combustion is that, in extreme cases, the bubafon can be reloaded on the move. It stinks, but you won't get poisoned.

The specific power of bubafoni is about 0.3 kW per 1 cubic meter. dm of fuel, which is not bad. But the fuel itself is sawdust, shavings, small flammable debris, and dry ones at that. With wood and coal, the efficiency drops sharply: the duration of heat transfer remains the same, 6-8, up to 12 hours. You can “feed” the bubafon with high-quality, high-energy-intensive fuel if you are not too lazy and make a “pancake” with curved profiled blades. This will also increase the possibility of additional loading: turning the pressure when raising/lowering will not disrupt combustion and re-ignition of the stove will not be required.

At pos. B1-B3 no less popular open combustion stove “Slobozhanka”. Its design is elementary, the size and proportions are not critical, from a pan to a barrel. The stove can operate on waste fuel, wood, coal, and trophobriquettes. Three circumstances prevent Slobozhanka from competing in bubafoney:

1. Reloading on the go is impossible; removing the lid in a half-burnt oven is deadly.
2. Due to open combustion, the specific thermal power is 2-3 times lower than in furnaces with a closed combustion zone.
3. An air distribution shaft made of ordinary steel 6 mm thick with regular intensive combustion burns out before the end of the heating season, and a housing made of 3 mm steel lasts 2-3 years due to active chemical corrosion in the gas cushion.

The durability and power density of the Slobozhanka can be increased by making the flame housing from special steel. There are several air distributors made directly in the walls of the housing (its development is in position B2). But then you have to surround the stove with an air jacket with partitions and even make a ring ash pan, pos. B3. For a DIYer, such a design is too complex and unprofitable to produce. Therefore, “Slobozhanki” is produced only in small series by small companies, and they are in some demand only in southern regions as stoves for occasional heating of utility rooms.

Note: for stoves with a gas jacket, the condensate collector will have to be buried in the floor, and the accumulated condensate will have to be pumped out, because in stoves with a gas jacket, the exit to the chimney is lower.

At pos. B – diagram of a furnace once produced by the Soviet military industry for heating the barracks of small remote garrisons. It had a high power density; a stove the size of a barrel heated a room of 150-160 square meters. m. with a ceiling of 4 m. Omnivorous, everything burned in it, from Suchan anthracite to fresh household waste. Additional loading - on the go without restrictions: a fungus on the air duct/air distributor did not allow a fresh portion of fuel to bury the smoldering zone, and completely burnt-out gases escaped through the mass of fuel. Only a perforated cone was made from heat-resistant steel, joined into a rebate.

Nowadays this stove seems to be forgotten. The probable reason is the cumbersome and unaesthetic nature of the entire system. In addition to the furnace, its standard configuration included 3 sections of 2 m of gas-air heat exchange registers, each in the form of a finned bundle of 5 two-inch thin-walled pipes. Attempts to replace them with a bourgeois chimney resulted in the hog becoming orange-hot, and the stove began to “spit” gas from under the lid.

Installation of a metal furnace

Before you take on any stove, you need to decide where it will be installed. The first rule is that if the oven is convection, it can be placed anywhere. If the stove heats primarily by radiation, it must be placed away from external walls, otherwise the increased temperature gradient between the room and the street will lead to large heat losses and eat up a good share of the efficiency of the stove.

Next, we estimate the weight of the stove per unit area of ​​its projection on the floor. If the weight load does not exceed 150 kg/sq.m. m, then everything is OK, the stove can be placed directly on the floor. If the load is within 150-400 kg/sq. m, the flooring will have to be dismantled and the stove placed on a screed. Installation of metal stoves, as a rule, does not require dismantling the flooring or laying a foundation. In utility rooms with an earthen or any other floor without a screed, a reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of at least 7 cm must be placed under the stove. The slab must be moved beyond the contour of the stove projection by at least 0.6 m in all directions.

The stove should be at least 0.6 m away from concrete walls or covered with fireproof plaster on vermiculite. At least 0.8 m away from ordinary plastered walls without wallpaper. If any decorative wall decoration is flammable or capable of decomposing when heated (paint , plastic, wallpaper), the stove cannot be moved closer to it than 1.2 m. Using stationary metal stoves for heating wooden buildings fire safety rules are allowed in exceptional cases with special permission.

Now, if the stove is factory-made and the house has a chimney, all that remains is to install heat and fire insulation (see below), connect the stove to the chimney and, without making the slightest fire, call a fire inspector for an inspection. As a rule, it is limited to minor comments, and after paying state fees, permission to operate the stove is issued. This whole procedure will cost about $150 and about a month of time.

If there is no chimney, it must be made separately, before installing the stove, and legalized by firefighters and the SES. In the case of a branded stove purchased, this is simpler: the specifications for a good stove must also include specifications for the chimney. Having completed it according to the requirements, you can safely go to the firefighters: after the examination and payment of what should be paid to the treasury, the necessary papers will be issued. The situation with the “left” chimney is worse; its construction requires an approved project. They will advise you free of charge on where to order it and what should be in it, at the local branch of the All-Russian Research Institute of Fire Protection (VNII Fire Protection of the Ministry of Emergency Situations). The bad thing here is that there are branches or departments of VNII PO only in fairly large cities (from 150 thousand approximately), and they do not provide online consultations.

And it turns out really bad if the stove is completely homemade: In order to be legitimized, it will first have to be certified by the same All-Russian Research Institute of Software. Moreover, you don’t have to bother with long-burning stoves, any liquid fuel or gas ones: they are certified only by factory ones. There is no law on penalties for homemade stoves, so you won’t be fined for being “left-handed.” But, if the property is insured, then the mere presence of such a stove, even if it were lying cold in a closet far away, makes the case not insurable. And if some “suddenly something” caused damage to the neighbors, it is better to immediately pay amicably, there will be nothing to repay in court.

Finally, if all these vicissitudes have been completed, we put insulation: at least 4 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard, and on it a sheet of iron with a thickness of 1.5 mm. The removal of insulation beyond the contour of the stove is at least 50 mm on the sides and back and at least 300 mm in front of the firebox. If the furnace is shielded, the offset is calculated from the contour of the screen. Now to the firefighters, as already said, and after eliminating the deficiencies indicated by the inspector and issuing a permit, you can drown.

Example drawings

Generally speaking, it’s easier to buy a potbelly stove and a buller. Therefore, as an example, we provide drawings of 2 popular designs: a small sauna stove, 40-50 cubic meters. m of room, with a water heater, and a garage furnace in progress. For a potbelly stove you need a steel or aluminum storage water tank of 100 liters or more without thermal insulation, and for oil furnace– chimney from 4.5 m in height with a condensate collector. The material in both cases is ordinary 4 mm steel.

Video: an example of self-made sauna stove made of metal

About stoves and fireplaces

For a fireplace stove, aesthetics are more important than heating technology. In relation to metal, it is best to buy a ready-made fireplace insert, and Creative skills apply in design terms. Special fireplace cassettes, or fireplace cassettes, are available for sale, see fig. on right. They differ from a conventional firebox in that they have a built-in smoke collector and afterburner. A fireplace cassette is more expensive than a simple firebox, but this is compensated by the simplified requirements for the chimney, and the fins on the afterburner allow air heating of the room. The cassette fireplace can be built in anywhere; its outer surface heats up to no more than 70 degrees. Registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations is not required.

How to paint the stove?

Bare metal looks bad even in a garage or shed and is more susceptible to corrosion than painted metal. But ordinary stove paint will not work; it holds no more than 140-160 degrees. So, how to paint a metal stove?

Organosilicon and organosilicate enamels are suitable for painting hot surfaces. If anyone knows that silicon in Latin is silicium, don’t be surprised. In organosilicon compounds, hydrogen atoms (and not carbon, as is often incorrectly thought) are partially or completely replaced by silicon. And in organosilicates, the silicon-containing filler is mixed with an organic binder, which evaporates when dried.

Organosilicon enamels are heat-resistant up to 800 degrees Celsius for 5-12 hours, but are more expensive than organosilicate enamels, approximately 180 rubles / kg versus 150. The heat resistance of organosilicates is 250-350 degrees. Taking into account the fact that the consumption per unit area of ​​silicone is greater, and it itself is heavier, the cost of the finished coating is approximately twice as high. According to the UP-1 device, organosilicates are also approximately twice as strong as organosilicon when chipped.

Based on this, actually It is better to paint the stove with organosilicon, and its screen with organosilicates. In terms of chemical resistance, they are equivalent. The quality and price of foreign and domestic manufacturers differ little. Among the domestic ones, Certa and KO-828 have proven themselves well; from foreign – Norwegian Jotun.

How to paint

Heat-resistant enamels for metal are applied only to a clean, grease-free surface from a spray bottle in a warm, dry room. You cannot paint with a brush or roller. Be sure to apply in 2 layers; the second after the previous one has completely dried. According to the specifications, enamels can be applied in sea fog at sub-zero temperatures, but only in an electrostatic field using special equipment. Up to the 3rd degree (without noticeable tack), the enamels dry in 20 minutes - 3 hours, but to be fully ready to withstand the heat, the product must be kept for at least 7 days. It is unacceptable to speed up drying with a hairdryer or heating the oven; the coating will peel off.

Where to begin?

So which stove is better to make first? Without a doubt - to indoor potbelly stove with afterburner and hob. If the electricity goes out, gas or coal runs out, and there is no supply, she will always help out. At home it will not take up much space in the pantry, but at the dacha it can be stationary. Then, as needed, the same potbelly stove will be equipped with improvements without any particular difficulties.

As for long-burning stoves that are simple at first glance, they are highly efficient precisely because their heat engineering and thermochemistry are very complex. You should only take on a long-heating stove after gaining experience.

Conclusion: where metal is good

In everyday life, metal stoves are used more as alternative emergency heat sources. The second broad area of ​​their application is periodic heating of utility rooms and utility rooms, incl. country houses. For constant heating of industrial premises, heater furnaces are optimal.