We make a drive for a grinding machine with a foot drive. Homemade lathe with foot drive. Making samples of linen seams

Household sewing machines have three types of drive devices - manual drive, foot drive and electric drive.
Some machines can be equipped with any type of drive (for example, all models of the Podolsk Mechanical Plant named after M.I. Kalinin; “Radom” or “Luchnik” (Poland); “Veritas” (GDR).

MANUAL DRIVE

The manual drive consists of a housing 1 (Fig. 17), which is attached to the machine sleeve with a bolt 13. A pair of spur gears 4 and 6 with a gear ratio of 1: 3 is installed in the housing. The gears are closed with a cover 8, which is attached to the housing with two screws 9. Small gear 6 is integral with driver 3, which enters the flywheel window. The small gear is pivotally mounted on axis 5, and the large gear is mounted on axis 2. The large gear has lugs 12, to which handle 11 is attached using axis 7 and stopper 10. Stopper 10 is spring-loaded and can be pulled back when handle 11 is moved to the non-working position. The handle is moved to this position for storage or transportation to avoid breakage and reduce the size of the machine.

When the handle 11 is rotated, the leash 3 sets the flywheel of the machine in motion. You only need to rotate the handle away from you. In this case, the flywheel and the main shaft of the machine will rotate in the desired direction (i.e. towards themselves). For ease of movement, it is necessary to periodically lubricate the axes of the large and small gears.

FOOT DRIVE

If a household sewing machine is equipped with a table, then use foot driven. To bring the machine to working condition it is necessary to connect the flywheel to the drive wheel 1 (Fig. 18) using a round leather belt 27 and a metal clip 28.

The foot drive consists of a pedal 17, movably mounted on two axes 16. The axes 16 are secured with locknuts 24 on brackets 15, which in turn are bolted to the bottom 14 of the table. A bracket 18 is attached to the pedal 17 using screws. A sleeve 22 is inserted into the hole in the bracket and secured with a lock nut 19 (section S-S). A ball end of the rod 21 is inserted into the sleeve, which supports the thrust bearing 23 from below. To soften the impact and reduce knocking during operation, a leather washer 20 is placed between the thrust bearing 23 and the ball end of the rod 21. The upper end of the rod 21 is screwed into the head 26 and secured with a lock nut 13 (section B-B). A separator 12 is also inserted into the head and balls 7 are placed, which are pressed by a round nut 6. The axis 9 is fixedly attached to the drive wheel 1 by means of a washer 10 and nut 11. For ease of rotation, the balls 7 are lubricated with a thick lubricant, which retains its properties for a long time and provides normal work this node.
Drive wheel 1 with a central hole is hingedly mounted on axis 5 and held by head 4 (section A-A). Axle 5 is fixedly fixed in bracket 3 with bolt 2. Bracket 3 is attached to the side wall of the bedside table with three bolts 25. The foot drive frees the worker's hands to perform the sewing operation. Operating a foot-operated machine requires some skill, although the significant weight and large diameter drive wheel contribute to uniform rotation of the main shaft of the machine during the jerky movement of the pedal 17.

ELECTRIC DRIVE

The electric drive consists of a single-phase commutator asynchronous electric motor and a ballast rheostat. The electric motor can be built into the machine body or mounted. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. The built-in electric motor makes the machine more compact and better protected from external damage.

It is easier to repair an outboard engine, replace the contact brushes or drive belt. The most common domestic electric drive is MSh-2, produced by the Serpukhov plant. The mounted electric motor 7 (Fig. 19) is attached to bracket 1 with two brackets 6 using nuts 8. Bracket 1 is attached to the machine body with bolt 2 (like the manual drive housing bracket). Pulley 9, mounted on the electric motor shaft, clip belt 3 transmits rotation to flywheel 5, fixed to the main shaft of the machine with friction screw 4.
In Fig. 20 shown electrical diagram electric drive. Electric motor D and control rheostat RP are sources of spark discharges that cause radio interference. To suppress radio interference, the plastic housing of the electric motor is coated on the inside with a special compound that does not transmit radio interference into the air, and the rheostat is equipped with special capacitors C1 C2 C3 and inductive coils L1 and L2, which are a filter that prevents harmful current pulses from penetrating into the household electrical network.
The ballast control rheostat is located in a carbolite housing. It is made in the form of a foot pedal and serves to turn on the machine and regulate the speed of rotation of the main shaft during its operation.
The base 1 (Fig. 21) is connected to the cover 4 with four screws 27 through rubber bushings 26. The rheostat housing 10 is attached to the base 1 with two screws 11 with nuts 12 and washers 13. The rheostat is insulated from the body with asbestos washers. Two columns of carbon disks 33 with a thickness of 0.4-0.5 mm are inserted into the holes of the housing 10.

Technical characteristics of the electric drive MSh-2

Two holders 8 are attached to the housing 10 with screws 9, into the holes of which carbon contacts 7 are inserted.
In the hole of the cover with inside a button 6 is inserted, the fork of which covers the pin 5 of the push lever 3. The lever 3 is hinged on an axis 38 inserted into the holes of the stand 39. The stand 39 is attached to the base 1 with a screw 2.

The lower arm of the lever 3 is in contact with the pusher 37, which moves under the rheostat housing 10. The contact disk 16 rests against the fork located at the end of the pusher 37 under the action of the spring 15. The disk 16 is fixed to the rod 14. A sleeve 36 is put on the end of the rod 14, which under the action of the spring 15 is pressed against the head of the rod 14. A contact plate 34 and a limit plate 35 are pressed onto the bushing 36. Guide screws 32 are inserted into the hole of the rheostat housing 10 on the right. Contact plates 19 are attached to their ends. The plates 19 are attached to the plates 19 with washers 31 and nuts 30 wires 29 coming from capacitor 23.
Chokes 18 and 28 are also connected to plates 19. The ends of wires 25 connecting the pedal to the electric motor are soldered to the capacitor 23. The chokes 18 and 28 inserted into the holes of the base 1 are covered by a bracket 22 attached to the base 1 with a screw 21. Turning on plug pedals to the power supply, you need to press button 6 with your foot. Lever 3 will turn clockwise and move the pusher 37, which, moving to the right, through the contact plate 34 will press contacts 7. The disks 33 will tighten, and the electric motor circuit will be closed through a carbon rheostat. The harder you press button 6, the tighter the disks 33 will be pressed, the resistance between them will decrease, and the rotation speed of the main shaft of the machine will increase. When you press button 6 all the way, the contact disk 16 will come into contact with the contact plates 19, and the current, bypassing the carbon disks, will flow through the winding of the electric motor. At this time, the electric motor shaft will rotate at a frequency of 6000 rpm. When button 6 is fully released, spring 15 will open contact plate 34 with contacts 7. Current will not be able to flow through the electric motor circuit and the electric motor will turn off.

Foot-powered machines were invented by people long before electricity was discovered. On a similar machine, Russian Tsar Peter I mastered the basics of turning, and ancient masters used them to create their masterpieces of wooden architecture and shipbuilding.

Everyone young technicians We must now learn to mechanize our work, study the structure and operating principle of machines, first simple, then more and more complex. We must learn to build machines and use them. Our article should help you with this.

This foot-driven wood lathe was built by young technicians from Golobskaya high school Volyn region in the mid-60s of the last century, at the same time this article was published in the appendix to the magazine "Young Technician".

Let's look at the structure of the machine. It consists of a strong frame on which a base is fixed - two horizontal parallel bars, called parallels.
Rice. 1 General form homemade lathe.

On the left there are two racks on which are mounted: at the bottom - a flywheel (flywheel), at the top, above the parallels, - an axis (spindle) and a stepped pulley (headstock), fixedly mounted.
On the right is the tailstock; it can move along parallels and is secured to them with a wedge or a bolt with a clamping nut. This headstock has a center - a horizontal rod, placed at the same height as the headstock spindle.
Between the front and tailstocks there is a stand - a tool rest, on which the cutter rests during operation. The tool rest can move along parallel lines. It is fixed in in the right position using a wedge or bolt with a clamping nut.
The spindle is driven by a flywheel and pedal. When you press the pedal with your foot, the connecting rod moves and the flywheel rotates. Through the belt, this rotation is transmitted to the pulley. Together with the pulley, the spindle and a piece of wood sandwiched between the spindle and the center of the tailstock begin to rotate. The chisel is rested on the tool rest and the wood is sharpened with it.

At what speed does the spindle rotate? This depends on the ratio of the diameters of the flywheel and pulley, which are cylindrical wheels adapted for belt drive. Let's turn to the laws of motion.

Two wheels connected to each other by a belt (Fig. 2) will have the same linear speed, since any point on the belt covers the same distance in each unit of time; consequently, any point taken on the circumference of each wheel moves with the same speed. It is further known that the circumference of the wheel is equal to 2╥R. If a wheel makes so many revolutions per minute, then each point on its circumference covers a distance equal to 2╥R 1 n 1 meters. But based on the first position, each point on the circumference of the second wheel must travel the same distance in the same period of time. Therefore, at the radius it will make a different number of revolutions. This is expressed by the formula:
2╥R 1 n 1 =2╥R 2 n 2

This leads to a very important point: two wheels connected by one belt always:

R 1 n 1 = R 2 n 2

n 1 /n 2 =R 2 /R 1

In other words, the number of revolutions per minute that two shafts make is inversely proportional to the radii of the wheels mounted on them, with which they are connected to each other.
Using this formula and knowing the number of revolutions of one of the wheels, it is easy to determine the number of revolutions of the other wheel. Let's assume that the first wheel (flywheel) makes 100 revolutions per minute, having a radius of 280 mm. You need to find out how many revolutions the second wheel (pulley) makes if its radius is 70 mm.
Substitute the numerical values ​​into the last formula and solve the problem for n 2

n 2 =100x280:700=100x4:1=400(revolutions).

The number 4:1, showing the ratio of the radii of the wheels, is called the gear ratio. It allows you to solve problems to determine the number of revolutions of one wheel if the number of revolutions of the other is known. To do this, it is enough to multiply the number of revolutions by the gear ratio.
These calculations will have to be resorted to when determining the dimensions of the stepped pulley.
Let's now proceed to preparing the machine parts. For this you will need good tree- dry, without cracks and knots, certainly hard wood: oak, beech, or, in extreme cases, birch. Tree coniferous species no good
Prepare three bars for the racks 1 , 2 And 3 size 960x100x80 mm; three bars (stands 4 for racks) - 640x100x80 mm; two bars (for parallels 5 ) - 1400x120x40 mm; six bars (legs 6 for stands) - 275x100x80 mm; two strips 7 connecting legs - 1400x50x35 mm; one block for the tailstock 8 - 550x100x80 mm; two bars for a tool rest 9 And 10 - 250x50x20 mm and 400x60x50 mm; round roller 11 for a tool rest - with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 320 mm; three blocks for the pedal 12 - 1000x80x40 mm, 960x80x40 mm and 530x80x40 mm - two clamping wedges 13 - each 20 mm thick, 250 mm long and 40 mm wide at one end, 50 mm at the other.
After all the bars have been prepared, proceed to marking (Fig. 1) and further processing their.

At the lower ends of the bars intended for racks 1 , 2 And 3 , make tenons measuring 100x80x30 mm At a distance of 315 mm from the upper ends, make cutouts for parallels 5 - 120 mm width and 25 mm depth. At a distance of 100 mm from the top ends of the posts 1 And 2 drill holes for the spindle 16 and make recesses for the ball bearings (according to their size). At a distance of 140 mm from the lower ends of the same struts, drill holes for the flywheel axis (crankshaft 17 ) and also make grooves for the ball bearings through which this axle will pass.
After this, into the bars 4 , intended for stands for racks, at a distance of 365 mm from their front ends, hollow out 100x30 mm sockets for the tenons of the racks on top, and two sockets for the spikes of the legs on the bottom side at a distance of 20 mm from the ends 6 size 60x30 mm. On bars intended for legs 6 , make tenons measuring 80x60x30 mm and cutouts for the planks 7 - 50 mm wide and 35 mm deep
A very important job - making an axis (spindle) 16 ) with stepped pulley 15 - for the front headstock.

The spindle can be made from a piece water pipe or a round steel rod with a diameter of 20-25 mm, with a thread at one end. This axis must rotate in ball bearings (Fig. 3). Therefore, it is best to first obtain suitable ball bearings, and only then, based on their internal diameter, select or grind the axle. If you cannot find ball bearings, then install sliding bearings. They can be made from sections of bronze or copper tube.
Pulley 15 It is better to make it from metal, but you can also make it from hard wood. It fits tightly onto the spindle and is secured with a locking screw.
The pulley profile depends on which drive belt you use. For a flat belt a cylindrical pulley is made, for a round belt a grooved pulley is made.
The pulley does not have to be stepped, that is, consisting of two or three wheels of different diameters. On the described machine, a stepped pulley is installed in the expectation that over time an electric drive will be added to the machine. On a machine with a foot drive, you can install a single pulley.
Now you need to decide at what speed the spindle should rotate, and depending on this, determine the diameter of the pulley (or three cylindrical wheels, forming a stepped pulley). Here you need to take into account the strength and structure of the machine and the dimensions of the parts that will be processed on it.
The average rotation speed for foot driven machines is approximately 300 rpm (machines with electric drive usually give 700-1500 rpm). During processing small parts the speed can be increased; When processing large parts, the spindle should rotate more slowly. At a high number of revolutions, the blank can break out and hit the worker.
On the machine of the Golob young technicians, with a flywheel diameter of 570 mm, the pulleys have diameters of 140, 100 and 70 mm. Means, gear ratios are approximately (rounded up) 4:1, 6:1 and 8.5:1. Assuming the flywheel rotates at 80 rpm, then with a gear ratio of 8.5:1 the spindle will spin at 680 rpm. This speed is too high for a machine with a foot drive. It is better to limit yourself to a pulley designed for a gear ratio of 4: 1 (or, if the pulley is stepped, then for gear ratios of 4: 1, 5: 1 and 6: 1). Using these numbers, determine the diameter of the pulley yourself.
The width of each of the three wheels forming the stepped pulley is 35 mm, therefore overall width pulley - 105 mm.
Flywheel diameter 14 - 570 mm, width 95 mm (other sizes are possible). To make a flywheel, you need to select and plan well dry boards 20-25 mm thick and glue three or four (depending on the thickness of the boards) square panels from them. To glue the shields you will need so-called clamps - the same clamps, but longer. Make them from blocks. Place the boards into two strands, having previously lubricated their edges (except the outer ones) with hot wood glue, and clamp them with two wedges, driving them one towards the other. All this is shown in Figure 4

Mark circles on the shields prepared in this way. In this case, you need to consider which belt will be used on your machine. If it is flat, then all the circles should be the same diameter, but if it is round, then the diameter of the middle (inner) circles should be less by about 30-40 mm. Very carefully cut out the circles and place them on top of each other like this. so that the boards of the first circle intersect with the boards of the next circle, etc. Glue the circles together and screw them together for strength. But before you do this, think about how to weight the flywheel. There are several ways to do this.
The first way is this. In the inner circles, as close to the edge as possible, hollow out or drill several identical holes, placing them evenly around the entire circumference (Fig. 5, a). Fill these holes with lead. Instead of lead, you can put identical pieces of metal into them, such as large nuts.

To make the flywheel heavier using the second method, not solid circles are placed between the outer circles, but small circles in the center and rings around the circumference (Fig. 5, b). In this case, all the circles and rings must first be connected to each other, and then a hole must be drilled in the side wall and through it the hollow space inside the flywheel must be filled with dry sand. Do not forget to shake the flywheel so that the sand settles more tightly.
It is very important that the flywheel is balanced, that is, that the load is evenly distributed around its circumference
In the center of the flywheel, drill a hole along the diameter of the axle (crankshaft 17 ) Screw metal couplings on both sides of the flywheel; in one of them you need to drill a hole and cut a thread for a locking screw (that is, securing the flywheel to the axis). The flywheel mount on the axle is shown in Fig. 6.
Flywheel axis - crankshaft 17 - do according to fig. 1 from a steel rod with a diameter of 20-25 mm (you can select a long bolt of suitable diameter and saw off its head). It is difficult to bend such a shaft yourself; it is better to seek help from a forge or a mechanical workshop.

This shaft must rotate in bearings embedded in the racks 1 And 2 (Fig. 6) Connect the crank shaft with a connecting rod 18 with pedal 12 . The connecting rod can be made of both wood and metal. The structure of the connecting rod and pedal and their connection are clear from Fig. 1.
Now let's start assembling the machine.
First, assemble all three stands with stands, insert the spikes of the stands into the sockets of the stands, and then, after adjustment, you can glue them in place. Insert parallel bars into the cutouts of the racks 5 (often called a slide) and secure with bolts, nuts and washers. Distance between posts 1 And 2 should be 130 mm, between posts 2 And 3 - 1000 mm. Glue the spikes of the legs into the sockets of the stands 4 , and when the glue dries well, fasten them with strips 7 .
Remember that to fasten parts of the machine you can use wood glue, screws, small bolts, but not nails.
Assemble the pedal 12 and attach it (for example with door hinges) to the front strip 7 .
Insert into the recesses on the racks 1 And 2 bearings, place the flywheel between the struts and insert the crankshaft. Don't forget to put two steel plates on it to secure the bearings. Secure the flywheel with a locking screw and check whether it rotates strictly in one plane and whether the axle is skewed. Axle distortion can be eliminated by wedging the bearings with small nails. When you achieve proper alignment of the axle with the flywheel, secure the bearings with steel plates and the shaft with two metal couplings with locking screws or studs. You also need to put washers under them.
Connect the crank shaft to the connecting rod 18 . You will also need studs and washers here.
Lubricate all rubbing parts with Vaseline and check whether the foot drive works well,
In the same order, assemble the parts of the headstock: insert the bearings into the recesses, place the pulley on the spindle, check the alignment and secure everything. To prevent the spindle from moving in the longitudinal direction, place two metal couplings on it, filling the gaps between the pulley and the bearings. Secure the couplings with locking screws.
Now put on the drive belt 20 and check the transmission of rotation from the flywheel to the pulley and spindle.
For cylindrical pulleys it is taken flat belt 20-25 mm wide. For grooved pulleys, a twisted rawhide belt - supon - is used. The tension of the round belt is easy to adjust: just twist it harder.

Sew the flat belt with a thin rawhide strap. Sew the round belt with a staple made of thick steel wire (Fig. 7). To prevent the belt from slipping, sprinkle a little powdered rosin under it on the pulley and flywheel.
All that remains is to assemble tailstock and a handyman. These are very important parts, especially the headstock.
At the lower end of the bar 8 intended for the tailstock, make two cuts measuring 220x80x25 mm so that after stripping this part of the block fits tightly between the parallels. In the same lower part, stepping back from the end by 60 mm, drill a hole for the clamping wedge. At the top of the block (at a distance of 100 mm from the end), drill a hole for the clamping screw ( 19 ) with a center and a handle.
The clamping screw can be a bolt with a curved end; its other end should be sharpened into a cone. It rotates in two nuts secured in a block (the same way you secured the bearings).
To make the tailstock more stable, screw two support bars to it. And so that the clamping screw cannot move away during operation, attach a stopper from a curved thick nail or a steel rod with a thread and a nut. All these parts of the tailstock are shown in Figure 8.

Install the mounted tailstock on the parallels (slide) so that the center of its clamping screw approaches the center of the spindle. The points of the centers should coincide; if this does not happen, it is necessary to adjust the position of the tailstock on the parallels.
On a bar 10 for the tool rest, make cutouts measuring 200x20x50 mm on both sides. Drill a 25x50 mm hole in the wide end of the block; insert a block into it 9 and secure with a small wedge. Upper part bar 9 cut at an angle (as shown in Fig. 1) Firmly screw a 220 mm long board covered with tin to it (for greater strength). In a roller 11 make two rectangular holes 50X20 mm each; the distance between them is 110 mm. A block is passed through the top hole 10 , a clamping wedge is inserted into the lower 13 .
Now you need to equip a spindle for fastening the workpieces different sizes. The auxiliary parts for this purpose are the fork, the faceplate and the cartridge.
It is better if the spindle is made of pipe. In this case, a flange that is screwed onto the pipe can serve as a faceplate. It is convenient to use a coupling as a cartridge, the so-called “transition” - with different diameters. The fork can be easily made from a short piece of pipe, screwed halfway into the coupling; its end must be flattened and processed with a file according to Figure 9.

In the same way, a fork, a faceplate and a chuck for a spindle are made from a steel rod or bolt. As a last resort, you can simply saw off the end of the spindle and turn it into a fork, but this is less convenient for work.
Good job homemade machine depends on the accuracy of the parts, the accuracy of their fitting to each other, and the strength of the connections. It is clear that the machine should not wobble during operation and the spindle should not hit the bearings. The flywheel must rotate evenly and strictly in one plane. Finally, securing the tailstock and tool rest in any position must be rigid and reliable.
Therefore, it is necessary to correctly set the parallels, firmly connect them to the posts, and accurately adjust the lower parts of the tool rest and headstock to the distance between them. The entire frame must be connected very firmly. If the racks wobble in the grooves, then during operation the belt may jump off the pulley or, even worse, the workpiece will break out of the centers. Give rigidity to the entire system. It is possible that the most critical connections will have to be reinforced with strip steel angles.
For final finishing machine, clean all wooden parts with fine sandpaper and cover with drying oil and then with alcohol varnish. Paint metal parts with enamel or oil paint
We do not dwell on trifles and minor details, since we believe that the construction of a lathe, even the simplest one, should only be undertaken by those young technicians who already have known knowledge, skills and experience.

The construction of a machine opens up wide opportunities for independent design and improvement individual parts and assemblies For example, clamping wedges 13 can be replaced with bolts and clamping nuts. This replacement is shown in Fig. 10 When processing long objects, the tool rest can be replaced with a block screwed to the posts 2 And 3 at points “A” (Fig. 1). Instead of a foot drive, you can make an electric one by attaching an electric motor under the pulley.
If you cut a thread on the end of the spindle protruding to the left (that is, outward) and select nuts and washers, then you can put a small round sharpener or grinding wheel on it.

In the next article we will talk about the cutting tools used when working on a wood lathe.

Wood is easy to process. Using simple tools, you can create things of amazing beauty and functionality.

Separately, it is worth noting products that have the shape of rotation figures: tool handles, staircase balusters, kitchen utensils. To make them, an ax or chisel is not enough; you need a lathe.

Buying such a device is not a problem, but good machine it costs expensive. Get one like this useful tool and it’s easy to save money, because you can make a wood lathe with your own hands.

Why is it needed and how does it work?

A lathe is designed for the manufacture of wooden products that have a cylindrical or similar shape. This is an indispensable item for repairs. country house With wooden stairs, a carved porch, but not only.

If you have some experience, a turning tool will allow you not only to save on purchased decorative elements, but also to earn money, because wooden crafts self made are highly valued.

Whether such a machine is needed in a home workshop is up to the master to decide.

Of course, if you need several handles for chisels, it’s easier to buy them, but if you want to make an all-wood staircase, then a set of balusters will result in a very a large sum. It is much cheaper to make them yourself. By the way, you don’t even have to spend money on buying equipment - a simple machine can be made in your own workshop using scrap materials.

The operating principle of a wood lathe is not particularly complicated. The cylindrical workpiece is fixed along the axis of rotation. Torque is transmitted to it. By bringing various cutters or grinding tools to the workpiece, it is given the desired shape.

Main parts of lathe:

• a frame on which all components are fixed;
• electric drive;
• headstock;
• tailstock;
• handyman

For ease of operation, schemes for changing the rotation speed are used. In professional equipment, this is a real gearbox, a system of gears that allows you to regulate the speed within a very wide range. This is difficult; it is enough to equip a homemade wood lathe with a belt drive with several pulleys of different diameters.

Manufacturing of the bed

The bed is a frame that combines all parts of the machine into a single whole. The strength of the structure as a whole depends on its reliability, because best material for the frame - steel corner. You can also use profile pipe rectangular section.

First of all, the dimensions of the future unit are outlined. This indicator largely depends on what specific products the machine is needed for. The average size the bed of a home lathe is 80 cm. Using a grinder with a metal circle, cut two identical blanks.

Lining wooden blocks, angles with shelves up and inward, placed on flat surface, their upper edges should create an ideal plane. The same distance is maintained between them, approximately 5 cm. To orient them correctly, use a strip of appropriate thickness.

The longitudinal parts of the base are fixed with clamps. Cross members are made from the same square. There are three of them. Two are attached to the edges of the structure, the third, which is a support for the headstock, is approximately twenty centimeters from the left edge. The exact dimensions depend on the type of motor used and the parameters of the pulley that could be found.

All that remains is to weld the frame into a single whole. The seam must be reliable and of high quality; it can be welded manually or using an automatic machine.

It is important to immediately decide how the machine will be used. Desktop installation or production of a stand-alone unit is possible. In the second option, it is necessary to provide legs. They can be made from the same square, or they can be cut from timber of suitable thickness. The use of wooden legs will allow you to save on material, in addition, the machine can be made collapsible.

Electric motor for machine

The basis of the lathe drive is the engine. When choosing this unit, it is important to pay attention to its main characteristic – power. For home machine Models with power from 1200 to 2000 W are suitable. The type of connection is important; there are single-phase and three-phase motors.

In a low-power table lathe, you can use a motor from washing machine. It is unlikely to cope with the processing of large workpieces, but it will help produce small decorative elements and kitchen utensils.

Direct drive or belt drive

There are several ways to transfer rotation to the workpiece. The simplest is direct drive. In this case, the workpiece is attached directly to the motor shaft. Distinctive feature This design is simplicity. With all this, direct drive has a number of significant disadvantages.

First of all, a direct drive machine does not allow you to adjust the rotation speed, which is critical when working with hard material. It is also worth considering the load on the electric motor, especially when working with large workpieces. No matter how well it is centered, it cannot do without vibration. Motor bearings are not designed to withstand longitudinal loads and will often fail.

To protect the engine from damage and provide the ability to adjust the speed of rotation of the workpiece, it is worth considering a belt drive. In this case, the engine is located away from the axis of rotation of the workpiece, and torque is transmitted through pulleys. Using pulley blocks of different diameters, it is easy to change the speed within a fairly wide range.

It is advisable to equip a machine for home use with pulleys with three or more grooves, which will allow you to process wood of any species with equal success, and, if necessary, work with soft alloys.

Headstock and tailstock

The workpiece being processed is clamped between two devices called the headstock and tailstock. Rotation from the engine is transmitted to the front one, which is why it is a more complex unit.

Structurally, the headstock of a homemade lathe is a metal U-shaped structure, between the side faces of which a shaft and one or more pulleys are mounted on bearings. The body of this unit can be made of thick steel; bolts of sufficient length are suitable for assembling it into a single whole.

An important part of the headstock, as well as the machine as a whole, is the shaft, a spindle with three or four pins designed to fix the workpiece. This shaft is passed through the bearing of one of the cheeks of the U-shaped housing, then pulleys are mounted on it. To fasten them, a key or a means for fixing cylindrical parts is used, the second cheek is put on last, and the structure is securely tightened with bolts.

The tailstock's job is to support the long workpiece while allowing it to rotate freely. You can buy a ready-made part from a factory machine, or you can use a powerful cartridge electric drill, fixed to a square of suitable length. A shaft with a pointed end is clamped into the cartridge itself.

The headstock and tailstock are installed on the bed. It is important to understand that the axes of rotation of both shafts must completely coincide. Otherwise, the workpiece may break, the machine will fail, and possibly even injure the turner.

Tool support: tool rest

A tool rest is a table on which the tool rests during operation. In principle, it can have any configuration, the master can choose, the main criterion is convenience. One of the best options for a tool rest is a trapezoidal turntable made of thick steel, mounted on a platform that allows you to move it in all directions. It will allow you to process any workpieces and manufacture products various sizes and shapes.

The simplest tool for this is a square welded to the base. The height of its upper edge must correspond to the level of the axis of the headstocks.

Wood cutters

As cutting tool are used for lathe. You can buy such a tool in almost any hardware store. Going on sale individual incisors and whole sets.

If there is no store nearby, but there is an opportunity and desire, you can do necessary tool yourself. For this you will need metal cutting machine, as well as a tool steel blade, it can be replaced with an old tool. A high-quality turning tool can be obtained, for example, from an old Soviet file.

Mini machine for small jobs

Often there is a need to grind several small wooden parts, in this case it is not at all necessary to make a full-fledged machine; you can get by with a mini wood lathe. Its production does not require much labor and will not take much time.

The design of such a machine is extremely simple. As an electrical component, a motor from an old tape recorder, powered from external unit nutrition. The bed of the mini-machine will be a piece of board of the required length.

The engine must be secured. Of course, a belt drive is not suitable for a small machine; the workpiece will have to be mounted on the motor shaft. The best device for this is a faceplate. The drive housing is a U-shaped plate, in the center of which a hole is drilled for the shaft. The engine in the housing is mounted on the frame using self-tapping screws.

The main part of the machine is ready, all that remains is to make the tailstock. Its body is made of timber suitable size. A hole for the shaft is drilled in it exactly at the height of the engine; a dowel-nail of suitable length is used as it. The headstock is attached with glue and several screws.

Using a power source with the ability to adjust the output voltage, you can create a machine with variable rotation speed. It is convenient to regulate the speed using the foot control pedal. The design of this device can be very diverse, it all depends on the available parts.

Machine made from an electric drill

Perhaps everyone home handyman there is one like this useful thing like an electric drill. This is a truly universal tool; it can be used for drilling, mixing mortar, and cleaning surfaces. It's no surprise that many people have the idea of ​​using a drill motor to make a small wood lathe.

It is not difficult. By by and large It is enough to fix the drill on the bed, and install the tailstock opposite it; it should be movable, which will allow you to adjust the working distance.

There are many options for manufacturing such a lathe, they differ in complexity and the materials used. In the very simple case the machine is a board or piece of thick plywood, at one end of which there is a stop for a drill with a lock, at the other - a rear beam: a block with a shaft inside. As a shaft, you can use a sharpened screw or dowel of a suitable diameter.

If you have the skills to work with metal, you can create a professional-level machine. Using it, it is easy to produce products of the highest class. If the machine is needed from time to time, the best option- a machine made from a drill. If necessary, you can grind the required part, and if you need a drill, it can be used for its intended purpose.

A foot-driven hydraulic pump is equipment whose operating principle is to transform mechanical energy to hydraulic. It is used in the work of masters of service stations and car services.

The advantages of a foot-driven hydraulic pump include:

• simple design - the hydraulic pump is easy to use;
• ease of use - thanks to the foot drive, the technician’s hands remain free to perform other operations;
• durability - a reliable device will work for a long time.

To choose a suitable hydraulic pump with a foot drive, when purchasing, consider the main characteristics of the equipment: dimensions, number of speeds, operating pressure, oil volume.

Types of foot driven hydraulic pumps

TD SOROKIN offers to buy a hydraulic pump with a foot drive. The range includes models:

• two-speed 0.6, 0.7 and 1.4 l;
• With different locations valve - from above or from the side.

All equipment meets high quality standards. Reliable components are used for its production, which ensures a long working life. All hydraulic pump models are covered by the manufacturer's warranty. Detailed information For information about devices, see product pages.

Lesson topic. Mechanical Engineering.

Sewing machine with foot drive.

Lesson objectives. Familiarize yourself with the purpose and design of the foot drive,

organization of the workplace when working on a sewing machine

with foot drive.

Build knowledge about the rules safe work by car

with foot drive.

Learn how to operate a foot driven machine.

Cultivate a caring attitude towards equipment,

attentiveness.

Develop coordination of arms and legs.

Equipment: workbook, thread, foot-operated sewing machine.

During the classes.

1. Organization of the lesson.

Checking students' readiness for the lesson.

2. Repetition of the material covered.

Oral survey.

Review questions:

1. What fibers are natural?

2. What two groups are natural fibers divided into?

3. What is called wool, fleece?

4. What is called natural silk?

5. What are positive properties wool and silk fabrics?

6. Name the negative properties of wool and silk fabrics.

7. How does thread shedding affect the cutting of products?

3. Studying new material.

Teacher's explanation.

Modern household sewing machines are produced with three types of inputs: manual, foot and electric. You are already familiar with a manually driven machine and know how to sew on it. A foot-powered machine differs from it primarily in that it is driven by the legs. It is faster, which allows you to reduce sewing time and increase productivity.

The foot drive has a pedal, which is driven into an oscillatory motion by the legs of the operator. This movement is converted into rotation using a connecting rod and transmitted to the drive wheel. . The rim of this wheel has a groove into which a round drive belt is inserted. The belt connects the drive wheel to the flywheel pulley mounted on the main shaft of the machine. The main shaft, rotating, sets in motion the working parts: needle, fabric motor, thread take-up, shuttle. For safety reasons, the drive wheel is covered with a shield at the front.

Since the pulley is 5 times smaller than the starting wheel, then for one revolution of the starting wheel (for one swing of the pedal) the pulley will make as many revolutions as it is many times smaller than the starting wheel. Disadvantages of belt drive - belt pulling, slipping, salting.

At the end of the work, the belt must be removed from the wheel.

Safe work rules.

When working on a sewing machine with a foot drive, you should take into account basically the same requirements and rules for organizing the workplace as when working on a machine with a manual drive.

When using a foot-operated sewing machine, pay attention Special attention on the correct position of the arms and legs.

When threading a machine needle, do not hold itfeet on the pedals.

Do not wear the belt while the machine is running. While working, do not hold the belt with your hand, otherwise you may injure it with the paper clip.

4. Practical work.

Before you start working on a sewing machine with a foot drive, you need to learn how to use your feet correctly - rock the pedal evenly. The flywheel should rotate only for the person working.

The teacher shows correct landing behind the sewing machine, placing your feet on the pedal.

Students do exercises.

1. The car is idling.

Set the car to idle (similar to how you did it on a manual car).

Place your feet on the pedal so that your right foot is slightly ahead of your left. Turn right hand the flywheel towards you and, working with your feet, rock the pedal. Press it smoothly, without jerking, with one or the other foot. Place your hands on the machine platform. To stop the machine, stop rocking the pedal and hold the flywheel with your right hand (fingers should be closed).

Repeat the exercise several times.

2. The machine is running.

Do the same exercise with the machine in working motion. Place a fabric folded in half under the presser foot and operate the machine without threading. Once you have mastered the correct movement of your legs, you can begin working on the threaded machine.

Questions for consolidation.

1. How should the light fall and the chair stand when working on a sewing machine?

2. Show me how to properly sit at a sewing machine and what should be the position of the arms and legs?

3. What mechanisms sewing machine Are they driven by the main shaft?

4. What are the disadvantages of belt transmission?

5. Analysis and evaluation of the lesson.

Analyze the lesson, mark typical mistakes, assign grades to all students.

Homework. Abstract.