Making the floor in the bath with your own hands. The floor in the bath from which it is better to make: we understand the nuances and choose the best option. Prices for OSB boards

You can equip the floor in the bath with your own hands if all necessary work. From the quality of the preparation of the base, the choice of insulating materials and finish coat depends on the service life of the floor. We will consider the installation of floors for a bath, the features of their installation, as well as the technological nuances that must be taken into account.

Features of the device floors in the bath

How to make a durable and wear-resistant floor in the bath? The construction of the bath as such is carried out taking into account many nuances. A room with a specific microclimate provides extreme operating conditions floor covering. High humidity, constant temperature fluctuations and contact floor base with water can significantly shorten the life of the floor.

The choice of a specific method of arranging the foundation in a "damp" room depends on such factors:

method of heat and waterproofing;
type of foundation and the presence of an underground;
seasonal use of the bath;
type of soil under the building;
structural features of the building.

If the bath is planned to be used throughout the year, in this case it is more expedient to make a solid foundation with pouring a concrete screed. IN frame building, which is used only in the warm season, it is best to make a wooden floor, since its assembly from an economic point of view will be more profitable.

Types of wood floors

The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be the most acceptable for seasonal buildings. The tree has a low thermal conductivity, therefore, it helps to save heat in a "damp" room. However, high humidity can cause wood elements to rot. To avoid this, experts recommend using floor logs and flooring made of conifers wood. They are less hygroscopic due to the presence of natural resins in the wood structure.

All types of wooden coatings for baths can be conditionally divided into the following categories:

Leaking. The boards are laid at a certain interval, so water is immediately removed from the room due to the cracks formed in the coating, the size of which varies from 3 to 7 mm. The device of such a foundation is beneficial for several reasons:
- simple installation;
- low cost of floors;
- no need to install a drain system.
Non-leaking. A monolithic coating assembled from boards can be used in buildings that are used all year round. However, in this case, it is necessary to install a water collector in the base, with the help of which the wastewater would be discharged into the sewer. The non-leakage coating device has the following advantages:
- long period of operation;
- good thermal insulation of the room;
- the possibility of assembling underfloor heating.

Necessary tools

The construction of a bath is a laborious and responsible process, but one of its most important stages is the arrangement of floors. From the quality of installation work associated with the device sewer system and laying floor materials, the microclimate in the room depends. To implement all the stages of floor construction correctly, first of all, you need to have the necessary tools at hand.

The device of a concrete base is possible with the following tools:

concrete mixer;
lighthouses;
rule (for alignment);
building level;
container for solution;
shovel.

To make a wooden coating, you will need other tools:

hammer;
jigsaw (angle grinder);
plane;
roulette;
nails.

To understand how to properly mount the floors in the bath, consider step by step guide laying wooden and concrete floors.

Standard floor construction

The base, equipped in the steam room, should be located above zero level by 8-9 cm. In this case, the temperature in the room will remain at required level. At the same time, in the washing room, the base is made somewhat lower than in other rooms of the bath. This avoids water leakage under the floor into the dressing room, shower room, etc.

The standard flooring is represented by a multilayer cake:

waterproofing layer (placed on the ground);
bars under a wooden crate;
draft coating;
insulating materials(insulation, waterproofing);
logs for assembling the crate;
heat and water insulators;
lining;
air bag;
wood and concrete layer;
decorative coating.

Features of the preparation of the base

The traditional construction of underfloor heating begins with preparatory work. To ensure a long service life of the finish coating, in the process of preparing the base, the following work is performed:

In place of future floors, a mineral pillow is laid, presented broken brick or expanded clay granules. The thickness of the drainage layer must be at least 15 cm;
Gravel or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured from above;
Then the laid materials are well compacted.

Laying a mineral cushion helps to break capillarity, due to which ground moisture rises to the base and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture for concrete floors

To make a high-quality solution for pouring a screed, you need to strictly observe the proportions and order of addition necessary components. To improve the thermal insulation qualities of the mixture, perlite can be added to its composition. The process of preparing the solution is implemented in two stages.

First step:

10 liters of clean water are poured into the concrete mixer;
Then about 2 buckets of expanded sand are poured;
The components are mixed;
Next, add 5 liters of cement grade M-300, not lower;
The mixture is well stirred;
Then add about 5 more liters of water;
Stir the solution until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Can be improved if needed specifications composition by adding perlite to it. To do this, do the following:

10 kg of perlite are poured into the previously prepared solution;
Add about 2-2.5 liters of water;
The components are mixed until the concrete mass turns into loose;
After 10 minutes, the components of the mixture are again well mixed.

Ultimately, a loose composition will be obtained, which in consistency will resemble plasticine. After that, a screed is made on the prepared base.

Filling the first layer

If the area of the rough coating is small, the screed is made immediately on the entire site. To fill the screed over a large area, the room is conditionally divided into strips, processing each one in turn. How to lay the first layer of concrete mix?

The thickness of the "rough" screed must reach at least 12 cm;
The horizontality of the laid layer is checked with a level;
Level the mixture using the rule;
So that water does not accumulate on the surface of the finished floor, the screed is made with a slight slope towards the pit;
The slope of the screed must be at least 1 cm per meter of length.

Thermal and waterproofing of concrete floors

As soon as the screed hardens, you need to proceed to the stage of thermal and waterproofing of the coating. Before laying insulating materials, the concrete surface is checked for bulges, cracks and dents. If necessary, the defects on the coating close up.

As a waterproofing material, as a rule, the following are chosen:

bituminous mastic;
polyethylene film;
roll roofing material.

After arranging waterproofing, it is necessary to make floor insulation. For these purposes can be used:

mineral wool;
polystyrene;
penoplex;
granulated expanded clay;
foam concrete.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be 10-15 cm. As practice shows, optimal insulation for concrete surfaces is expanded clay. It does not absorb moisture, weighs little and also has good sound insulation.

Filling the finishing screed

Laying the finishing layer of the screed technologically differs little from the previous version. But in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from 8 to 10 cm. It should be noted that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.

And yet, the arrangement of floors in large and small rooms is slightly different. If the base area is large enough, to give the structure greater strength, it is worth laying a reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with intensive use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

Features of wooden floors

Wooden flooring is a traditional type of coating that is used for arranging floors in a bath. Despite the hygroscopicity, this type of material is still in demand among consumers due to the following qualities:

Wood is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
The flooring has a low thermal conductivity, unlike concrete;
Wooden flooring creates a more comfortable atmosphere in the room.

Also, do wooden base it is possible in just a few days, since the stage of “wet” work can be bypassed, which cannot be done when pouring the screed.

Laying wooden floors

How to lay wooden floors correctly? Mounting a wooden base is quite easy, but you need to take into account a lot of technological nuances. The whole process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

erection support legs . To install the supports, rather thick bars with a cross section of 15 cm are used. the greatest load. They are placed on metal or brick pillars, secured with steel brackets. When arranging floors in a bathhouse built on pile foundation, laying the lag takes place on the mortgage crown;
Underground installation. In the case of assembling leaking floors, a 20 cm layer of gravel or expanded clay is laid in the underground. If the soil is clayey and does not absorb moisture well, a reservoir is installed under the floor to collect runoff water, which by gravity flows into the sewer through a pipeline. If you need to make a non-leaking base, it is in without fail insulate (expanded clay, polystyrene). To ensure normal ventilation of the underground, ventilation holes are made in the foundation for better air circulation;
Laying lag and finishing flooring. To arrange leaking floors, the logs are placed in random order, observing horizontality. When installing a non-leaking base, we make a slope from the log towards the pit. In the case of non-leaking floors, cranial blocks are nailed to the logs, on which draft boards are thrown. Then they put a layer of hydro and heat insulator. Thereafter wooden crate sheathed with grooved board. Inside the "pie", between the finishing boards and the logs, there should be a gap of 10-12 cm for ventilation of the underground.

It is very problematic to build a bath with a wear-resistant floor, given the specific microclimate in the room. To increase the period of operation of the floor covering, during its installation it is worth considering such moments.

Building your own steam room is a multi-stage process in which each stage is of decisive importance. And the device of the bath floor, of course, is no exception. To ensure water drainage, ventilation, heat and waterproofing, it is necessary to observe simple, but important rules installation. It should also be noted that the life of the floor will depend on the quality of the source material and the chosen technology of arrangement. If the question of how to make the floor in the bath is more relevant for you than ever, then this article will help you understand the types of bath floors and the intricacies of their installation.

To build the right floor in the bath, the first step is to decide what material it will be made of. To date, two options have been recognized as the most acceptable: wooden and concrete floors. Each has its own advantages and nuances of arrangement, which means that one cannot do without appropriate theoretical training.

Wooden floor

A classic solution that has not lost popularity for many years. Even the intensive development of the construction market is not able to negate the natural advantages. Wooden floors:

environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for health;
aesthetically attractive and able to demonstrate the impeccable taste of the owner of the steam room;
do not require construction a large number time (compared to concrete analogues);
bring a cozy and comfortable atmosphere to the bath.

Varieties

When building a bath with your own hands, the floors (depending on the design) are divided into leaking and non-leaking. In the first case, single-level floorboards are laid, which ensure the exit of water through the cracks, followed by its absorption into the soil under the foundation. Of the minuses of leaking floors, it should be noted the impossibility of warming, because. floorboards are removed and dried after each use.

In the second, installation is carried out with a slight slope towards the drain hole, equipped with a water collector and a drain pipe leading to the septic tank. The leak-proof design requires the installation of a subfloor and insulation with expanded clay. This method more expensive and time-consuming, but according to the criteria of convenience and practicality, it has no equal.

Arrangement of racks-supports

It is not difficult to lay a wooden floor for a bath with your own hands. To do this, you will need logs with a section of 18 cm or bars 15x15 cm, on which the flooring boards will be attached. Please note that the logs have a high load, so they must be laid on supports made of reinforced concrete or brick. The thickness of the racks is at least 15 cm, the width of the platform under them is 7 cm more than the supports themselves.

As for the height, this indicator is identical to the height of the edge of the base (with a strip foundation). If the foundation is columnar, then wooden logs they rest on the beams of the embedded crown, and the top of the pillars-supports must coincide with these beams. Before installation, the lag supports are covered with waterproofing (roofing, roofing material, bitumen or glassine).

Underground construction

The next step in solving the problem “how to put the floor in the bathhouse” is the construction of a subfloor. For a leaking floor on soil with a high degree of absorption, it will be enough to pour crushed stone (25 cm) into the underground. If the earth does not absorb moisture well, then the installation of a drain tank becomes mandatory. To do this, a clay castle is built on the ground at an angle to the pit.

If you decide to install the floor in a non-leaking type bath with your own hands, then the subfloor is insulated with expanded clay, leaving 15 cm to the lag (for ventilation).

Laying lag and flooring boards

Under the flowing floor, the logs are laid from any wall, under the non-leaking floor - with a slope to the side. We proceed to the flooring of the boards. For a non-leaking floor, the base floor (rough) with heat and waterproofing is first equipped, on which the tongue-and-groove boards are then attached. Please note that the groove of the boards is directed inside the bath, fastening to the logs is done with capercaillie screws or nails.

Laying the floor in a leaky bath takes less time and effort. The boards are sawn so that there is a gap of 2 cm between them and the wall. It is recommended to nail the first floorboard with nails, the thickness of which is twice the thickness of the board. The following floorboards are laid in 3 cm increments.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor has many advantages, which often become decisive when choosing:

not afraid high humidity and temperature fluctuations
not subject to decay;
has a long service life;
easy to care for.

Important Points

The soil is carefully compacted, a cushion of crushed stone impregnated with bitumen (150 mm) is formed on it. In this case, crushed stone can not only withstand loads, but also evenly distribute them.

In order to get rid of one of the main disadvantages of the concrete floor (it is cold), you should think about warming. The problem can be solved in two ways: lay the base in 2 layers, placing thermal insulation between the layers, or form a heat-insulating layer on top of the concrete, on which to equip a warm wood floor.

For double styling, you need to properly prepare concrete mortar. For the lower layer, the composition of the mixture should include large crushed stone fractions (35 mm in size). The thickness of this layer is 150 mm. If the bath is small, then the screed is laid immediately on the entire base, otherwise it is more convenient to divide the territory by means of wooden guides into 1000 mm strips. The screed will turn out beautiful and even.

For the top layer, it is more expedient to prepare a mixture of fine fractions. Level the floor with special care, compact it tightly. Concrete gains strength within a few days. Do not forget to take care of it - do not allow it to dry out, moisten the surface previously covered with sawdust every day.

concrete floor insulation

Regardless of the chosen insulation, it should be laid on waterproofing. For waterproofing, polyethylene film or roofing material is most often used. You can buy a liquid solution. Before application coating waterproofing the surface is primed.

After drying the bottom layer, you can start warming. For this, different materials are used:

expanded clay gravel and sand;
boiler slag;
mineral wool slabs;
expanded polystyrene (half pan);
foam concrete.

Each of these components has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, expanded clay gravel is expensive, and the thickness required for the appearance of normalized thermal conductivity will be much less compared to boiler slag. Polystyrene is an excellent insulation, but it is powerless against the influence of rodents and can collapse over time. Foam concrete could win the laurels of the "most-most", but it is hygroscopic.

Use of modern technologies

The technologies of the present century offer new ways of arranging the concrete floor in the bath. Increasingly, laying tiles is used, bypassing the formation of a second layer of concrete screed. This method involves strict adherence to the sequence of construction work.

Waterproofing is laid on the thermal insulation, and a screed is formed on top of special cement, the properties of which allow the coating to be only 15 mm thick. solid foundation ceramic tile finish floor. Tile samples are glued to a thin layer of adhesive that firmly fixes the material. Such a floor is distinguished by a long service life, unpretentious care and excellent appearance.

Now you know what floors are and how to make a floor in the bath, which will be a thoughtful solution that complements and decorates your steam room - the best place for recreation and recreation.

Floor device in the bath: video

The floor in the bath differs in its structure only in the steam room and washing. The rest of the baths are operated in the normal humidity regime. In the article, we will consider in detail the arrangement of floors in the steam room and talk about how to lay them with your own hands.

The choice of the design of the floor of the steam room and washing

The usual solution would be wooden floors. Their main advantage is the health benefits of wood, environmental friendliness and practicality. Despite the relatively low service life wooden floors in the conditions of a steam room, they are not so difficult to change, and the total costs will still be lower than the arrangement of a concrete floor.

In the steam room and the washing room, a fair amount of water constantly falls on the floor, which should be diverted into a pit, drainage system, or simply into the ground under the bath. IN constructively to solve this problem, wooden floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

The leaking floor provides a gap between the boards. Water seeps freely into the underfloor. Then it is absorbed into the soil, if its filtering ability allows it, or is discharged into a pit, for which a clay castle is formed or concrete base sloped to one side.

The second option is a non-leaking floor during wet rooms baths. Such a floor is made with a non-removable coating and is replaced only at the end of its service life. A slope for collecting and draining water is provided here along the surface of the floor covering towards the tray or funnel.

A floor with a removable coating can and even needs to be disassembled and dried regularly until the bath is in use. Fixed floors, due to susceptibility to decay at high humidity, change completely about once every 7-8 years.

A concrete base under a leaking wooden floor in a bath significantly increases the durability of the structure, and also affects comfort - even after many years there will be no musty smell from under the floor. However, the arrangement of a concrete base significantly increases the cost of arranging a bath, so if the parent soil under the building has a high drainage capacity, then it is easier to get by with preparing a filter layer.

Materials and tools

To cover the floor in the steam room and washing room, wooden elements from deciduous (linden, aspen) and coniferous (pine, larch, cedar) wood species are used. Everything wooden structures floors must be treated with antiseptics.

For flooring you will need:

wooden beam for logs 50 (100) x100 mm;
floor board 35 mm thick;
cement M300, M400;
sand of medium fraction;
expanded clay for the heat-insulating layer;
ordinary clay brick for posts under logs;
waterproofing (roofing material).

It is important to choose the right protective wood impregnation. It should be suitable for baths due to high temperature and humidity. The easiest way to process wood is impregnation sunflower oil for two approaches.

Tool

The floors in the steam room are arranged using a tool for laying a concrete base on the ground and a wooden covering of the bath floor.

Tools for working with concrete. 1. Rake-stroke. 2. Cement grater. 3. Trowel. 4. Ironer. 5. Corner ironer. 6. Rule. 7. Bubble level. 8. Pendulum profile

Woodworking tools. 1. Construction corner. 2. Staple. 3. Hammer. 4. Electric planer. 5. Clamps. 6. Hacksaw for wood. 7. Bubble level. 8. Screwdriver. 9. Drill. 10. A circular saw machine

Leaking floor from individual boards with chamfers

For the preparation of ground base under the floor structure, it is imperative to remove the fertile layer, no matter how thick it is.

Leaking floor over concrete base. 1. Ground. 2. Expanded clay concrete. 3. Cement strainer. 4. Gutter. five. brick pillar ik. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

Flowing floor on the ground with filtering capacity. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Gravel. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick pillar. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

It is important at this stage to decide how and where the water will be drained outside the building. For this, a tray (200x150h mm) is provided in the concrete base, into which water flows. The bottom of the tray is made with a slope towards the drain pit (30x30x25h). It is better to locate the pit closer to the place of the external water collector. From the pit, water flows through drain pipe into the water collector.

The slope of the surface for water flow is 2-3 cm per meter in the direction of the tray. It is created either by leveling the ground under the floor, or by filling (sand and gravel) under the concrete base. The overall level of the floor in the steam room and washing room is 30 mm lower than in adjacent premises with normal humidity.

A sand and gravel cushion 10-15 cm thick is laid on the compacted soil. It is necessary to fill and compact the sand in layers of no more than 5 cm, wetting it with water. Next, a heat-insulating layer of expanded clay concrete is laid. The approximate consumption of raw materials per 1 m 3 of concrete is:

without sand:
- cement M300, 400 - 250 kg;
- expanded clay - 720 kg;
- water - 100-150 l.
with sand:
- cement M300, 400 - 230 kg;
- expanded clay - 440 kg;
- sand - 195 kg;
- water - 100-130 l.

It is best to prepare a concrete solution in a concrete mixer or order

It is also possible to use another light filler (shungizite, perlite, expanded vermiculite, crushed stone of porous rocks, etc.). The thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer can be taken as 150 mm. Concrete is laid in strips no more than 2.5 m wide on a base moistened with water. To limit the strips, rails are installed, they also serve as beacons for determining the thickness of the layer. The thicker the insulation layer, the warmer the floor.

Be sure to observe the slope towards the gutter or funnel to collect and drain water

On a layer of expanded clay concrete is laid cement-sand screed 40 mm thick. The composition of the mortar (M100) cement / sand: one to three. Before the mortar sets, it is necessary to iron the surface with cement milk. Cement is mixed with water to the state of liquid sour cream. The surface is covered with an even thin layer of the mixture. This is done to increase the water resistance of the concrete base.

Under the logs, brick columns are installed from solid clay ordinary bricks (250x250 mm) on cement-sand mortar. The distance between the posts is 0.8-1.0 m in the center. 2 layers of roofing material are laid on their surface. Next, the lags are laid. The floorboards of the leaking floor have chamfers along the edges for water drainage. The gap between the boards is 5-6 mm.

Important! Do not use sand-lime bricks, hollow stones, silicate blocks in damp and wet rooms.

Such a floor is made removable in order to be able to dry floorboard to increase service life. The boards can move when walking on them, they are often caught with nails, landing nests up to 5 mm deep are prepared under them in the logs, or spacers are stuffed on the boards along the edges.

Leaking floor made of removable panels

The floor covering of the steam room and soap room can be made from removable wooden shields. The boards of the shield are laid with a gap on the transverse bars 50x50 mm. The size of the shields is taken for reasons of ease of removal and drying.

The floor structure is the same: compacted soil, compacted sand and gravel mixture, insulation - expanded clay concrete 150 mm thick. On a cement-sand mortar with a thickness of 10-15 mm, a ceramic floor tiles. The floor has a slope that is directed towards the drain tray. Removable shields are installed on the tile so that the lower bars are located along the water drain.

The sequence of works of a non-leaking floor

A non-leaking wooden floor involves a continuous flooring of tongue-and-groove boards along the logs. First determine the location of the support columns. They are placed at a distance of 0.8-1.0 m from each other, measuring the distances in the centers. A concrete pad 100 mm thick and 70 mm wider than the size of the post is prepared for each post.

Solid non-leaking floor over the ground. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk thermal insulation material. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

A solid, non-leaking floor must be laid with a slope. The gutter can be placed in one of the logs located close to the wall. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk heat-insulating material. 4. Brick column on concrete base. 5. Gutter. 6. Floor board

Supports for logs are made of concrete or ordinary clay bricks on a cement-sand mortar. The size of the columns is 250x250 mm. The height of the supports must correspond to the upper edge of the embedded beam ( columnar foundation), or at the top of the strip foundation.

The direction of laying the log should be perpendicular to the direction of water flow. wooden elements without fail, they are isolated from concrete or brick with two layers of waterproofing (roofing material). Expanded clay bedding 15 cm thick is made on the compacted soil.

An uninsulated floor option is shown in the figure. In this case, the boards rest on one side of the wall log, on the other - on the gutter log. The tray is covered from above with a wooden ladder.

The insulated floor involves logs with cranial bars to which the black floor is attached. Next, a vapor barrier is laid (membrane, polyethylene, polypropylene films), a layer of heat insulator (mineral wool board, polystyrene) is laid on it. On the thermal insulation layer is laid roll waterproofing(roofing material).

Insulated non-leaking floor. 1. Ground, sand cushion and bulk insulation. 2. Brick pillar. 3. Logs and rough wooden floor. 4. Insulation. 5. Logs and finished floor laid with a slope towards the gutter. 6. Gutter. 7. A vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of the subfloor, waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer

There must be a gap of at least 3 cm between the clean floor and the waterproofing. The lag size in this case is 100x170 mm. Skull bar - 40x40 mm. For logs, only a solid beam must be used.

Grooved boards are laid along the lags. Boards are sewn with nails or self-tapping screws to the logs through the tongue. This method of rallying boards is called "parquet". Its advantage is the absence of hats on the surface of the board.

Each board is attached to all lags. They should fit snugly against each other. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 mm. For rallying the boards, staples or clamps are used. Nails for fastening are used 2-2.5 times longer than the thickness of the boards. The end of the plank floor does not reach the wall by 10-20 mm. In the future, the gap is covered with a plinth.

Drainage of water from the floor surface occurs due to the slope of the floor in two directions. A hole is made at the drain point and a siphon is installed. The slope of the floor can be done by adjusting the height of the log.

The installation of floors in the bath is a very important process and has its own fundamental features. Failure to comply with which will lead to the construction of a cold floor and its rapid decay. An improperly made floor and the drain of used water under it can cause unpleasant odors in the bath.

Everyone wants to spend time comfortably and profitably in a bathhouse in which the floor is properly and evenly arranged, where you don’t have to step barefoot in dirty puddles or jump from grate to grate.

You can't imagine a bath without water procedures. And where there is water, the issue of its withdrawal or discharge must be resolved. Thanks to this, the floor will prolong its operation for a long time.

For the manufacture of floors in the bath, wood and concrete are used everywhere. And how to make it yourself using simple materials, we will consider in different versions.

And in the dressing room (rest room or locker room), and in the washing and steam rooms, the floors should be warm. Gradually, step by step, we will consider the construction of floors in the best options in these rooms and in this article.

Step-by-step guide for installing the floor in the bath

Before proceeding with the installation of floors in the bath, you need to decide which floor to choose and how to mount it: suspended directly along the logs or laid on the ground with insulation. And the soil inside my bath is what: sandy and dry or clayey and often wet. And where the water will merge, I need to help the water find a way out of the bath or it will stagnate and gradually dry out on its own. Here we need an objective approach and the same answer.

In general, it is customary to subdivide the floors in the bath: into:

Leaking wooden
non-leaking wooden
Concrete with insulation and covered with tiles on top

All other floors are varieties and modifications of the above. Consider the device of these floors separately, as well as in a combined version, it all depends on their purpose and operating conditions.

The device of the floor in the rest room is not leaking wooden.

Very often, a rest room in a bath combines the concept of a dressing room and a dressing room. In this room, its operation is always dry inside, as in a residential building. To lay the log, it is necessary to lay columns 400 x 400 mm from reinforced concrete and brick. The upper plane of the support posts should be flush with the upper plane of the strip foundation. Align if necessary.

Consider a non-leaking wood floor as hanging option. In the picture we see a backing beam, it is also called a beam and logs are mounted on it. You can start installation without beams, right along the logs.

Lay logs 150 x 150 mm, impregnated with antiseptic. Nail cranial bars 50 x 50 mm to the lower edges of the lag and lay a rough flooring of edged boards, 25-30 mm thick. Coat the boards of the rough flooring with an antiseptic. Let dry.

Lay parchment or unrefined paper on the draft flooring with a whip of 200 mm, if the insulation is mineral wool or roofing material, if expanded clay of different fractions in size is poured as a heater.

Then, on top of the logs, a clean floor is laid from floorboards with a quarter. Boards are rallying by standard rules. Usually, floorboards are made from softwood, as it is cheaper than larch.

Along the perimeter of the room, the boards should not reach the walls by 2 cm. There should be a distance of 15 cm between the insulation and the top board for ventilation and there should be air vents in the foundation walls.

How to make a floor in the washing department and steam room?

About the arrangement of floors in these two departments, the most important ones, for the sake of which the bath is being built, it is necessary to speak and show a lot and in more detail. The floors in these rooms can be: wood leaking and non-leaking or concrete with insulation and covered with tiles on top.

At present, thought does not stand still, and with its development, new proposals appear. The author of the idea proposed below combined the washing rooms and the steam room with one common volumetric underground. Leaking wooden floors have been installed in both rooms. Consider their device.

Leaking floors in the bath:

There has always been a leaking or pouring floor in Russian baths. That's just where the water goes under the floor - this important issue is now being solved in different ways, depending on constructive solutions and a smart approach. Let's say right away - in the steam room and in the sink, a leaking wooden floor with slots of 5 - 6 mm is being built. In the underground between these two rooms there should not be a strip foundation, but a columnar one is allowed.

When the boiler is kindled, the movement of cold and warm air through the underground. Air moves through open door and through a special window in the interior wall. The premises of the bath warm up well, the floor becomes warm and you can bathe and wash, which means pouring water. We watch a video about the movement of drains outside the bath.

There are different schemes for the release of effluents from the bath, and then they will be considered for comparison and selection.

The basis for a leaking wooden floor is expanded clay arranged on the ground. concrete screed and it goes like this:

On the base of the steam room soil and washing department it is poured, leveled and compacted first with a layer of sand, then a layer of rubble. Total thickness 250 mm;
This layer is covered with a thick plastic film in 3 layers with a rise along the perimeter to the walls. The edges of each layer are glued with frost-resistant tape. This layer serves as a waterproofing layer.
Lay down metal mesh with cells 80 - 100 mm.
Guides are mounted with a slope towards the drain drain. Lighthouses are fixed by slides. A slope equal to 3 cm per 1 m of guides is observed.
Expanded clay concrete is laid between the guides and leveled by the rule in compliance with the slope.
Make grout from cement mortar and smooth out any imperfections.

Expanded clay was chosen as a heater. He has next positive qualities is an environmentally friendly material obtained by accelerated firing of fusible clays. It has high performance and can reduce heat loss by 50 - 75%. Expanded clay gravel is inexpensive compared to other popular heaters.

It is weatherproof, fireproof, odorless, does not emit harmful components in case of fire. Concrete prepared using expanded clay is much lighter than crushed stone. Fractions are used different from 5 to 30 mm.

For reliable setting, cement grade M400-M500 is used. Experts advise adding a plasticizer. Proportional composition for the preparation of the mixture: 2 parts of expanded clay, 1 part of water, 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand.

It is not difficult to mix the composition yourself. You need to prepare a construction mixer and a metal container large sizes. And you can cook and concrete mixer.

From practice, it is advised to soak expanded clay in water so that it does not float. In the process of mixing, expanded clay concrete acquires a characteristic grey colour. It is necessary to pour in place immediately after kneading. The solution is poured between the beacons from the corner of the room to the funnel. Complete drying of expanded clay concrete occurs in a month. You can find out the readiness by placing a glass jar upside down, it should not fog up.

This is how a leaky wooden floor is made with a base of expanded clay concrete. At the location of the drain, make a shield or cover to access the funnel and clean it of debris and broom leaves.

2. Concrete floor with insulation and tiling.

In this option, between the washing room and the steam room there is strip foundation. Therefore, each room should have its own drain with a ladder.

Both for the washing room and for the steam room, such a floor is made and it is well maintained. It is made in exactly the same way as the base of expanded clay concrete, only to increase the thermal performance, dry expanded clay is additionally poured onto the metal mesh and the thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer is increased.

Then, in the usual way, put ceramic tiles with grouting and with a slope towards the drain. Additionally, they make a border of tiles on the walls around the perimeter.

Lay tiles on top of the floor wooden shields, sturdy and well made. Still, the tile floor slips.

Any floor ends with a drain and it is best if it is thought out before the foundation is erected in order to lay knocked together boxes from boards or metal pipes as a case in the foundation body. And, objectively speaking about where you will have a drain well, outside the foundation, with the location of the drain inside, dig trenches and lay PVC sewer pipes with a slope. Make a slope of at least 3 cm per 1 m of pipe.

Put special frost-resistant sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, because the pipes are durable, and you want more comfortable conditions over the years - that means a reserve. Maybe in the future you will make a toilet and dish sink in the break room or install a shower cabin with an electric water heater and pipe cold water for the summer period.

Sewer pipes in the trench must be insulated with ready-made Energoflex polyethylene foam. It's for sale different lengths and different diameters with a cut along the pipe, so it is simply put on it and the seam is sealed. Trenches with pipes can be covered with sand, expanded clay, then earth.

With the arrangement of drains with ladders, the washing room is connected PVC pipe with a steam room and further drains go beyond the walls of the bath in drainage well. There is good video on this topic.

Consideration should also be given to life situation when, when arranging the drain, you did as described above in the article, but for some unknown reason, the smell from the external well penetrates into the bathhouse and you feel it. No need to get upset, because there is a constructive way to avoid this. This will help a special device in the gangway. Look carefully at the pictures with the ladder.

It is not at all difficult to understand the device of this ladder, which is installed in the drain hole. In the second color picture, you can see how air bubbles from the external well with a smell try to get inside the bath, but the water seal prevents them. A red cap is put on top of the outlet and it seems to float in the drain water.

If water enters the drain from time to time and there is a possibility of the water seal drying up and, accordingly, the appearance unpleasant odors from the sewer, to eliminate this problem, ladders with a “dry” siphon “Primus” are used. He is in front of you in the picture.

If there is water in it, the siphon works like a regular siphon, and when the water seal evaporates, the drain hole is blocked by the movable upper part of the siphon (cap).

Usually, drains with a vertical outlet and a non-freezing siphon of the brand HL310N.2 are installed in the baths.

3. Non-leaking wood floors

Non-leaking wooden floors in the washing room and in the steam room can be done by the owner of the bath himself, but more difficult than the previous options. Here it is the principle of arranging this floor.

The picture shows two types of a non-drip floor device: with a drain in the center of the room and with a drain closer to the other opposite wall.

The slope of the floor is created by arranging a cut in the body of the log. A non-leaking floor is made of two layers of flooring: rough and finish. Boards should be coniferous, And the finishing floor is made of more quality boards, without knots and gaps.

The direction of the boards is towards the drain. The drain itself is mounted in different ways, more often from a galvanized sheet. And then, whoever knows how: you can go into a pit, and then into a pipe and a well, or you can make a ladder with a “dry” siphon and also connect it through a pipe to a well on the street. Access to the ladder must be for cleaning and repair.

The picture on the left shows the presence of all layers of a non-drip floor. This floor is considered hinged, wooden and warm. It is also made, but more often specialists are invited to install it.

If you yourself dare to do the installation of such a floor - consult a specialist, it will not be superfluous, but will only give self-confidence.

Water through the drain gutter can be diverted to a pit, which is made of reinforced concrete. From the pit, the sewage flows through the sewer pipe into an external well.

After bath procedures, the floors in the bath should dry out in order to prolong their operational capabilities for a long time. To do this, someone then heats the bath. But here is the device ventilation duct at the wall of the bath with access to the attic, will not interfere with the floor and will give the opportunity to "breathe".

Between the upper finishing floor and the upper waterproofing, which lies on the insulation, there must be air gap up to 150 mm.

The galvanized sheet is simply stuck into the body of the log and fixed with an overlap on the floor.

And so around the perimeter of the bathhouse.

The ventilation duct is made of boards tightly or from an ordinary galvanized thick sheet.

I hope the article was useful for you. Build yourself and strive to improve your living conditions. Good luck!

Installation of floors in the bath is one of the most critical stages of construction. In most cases, the floors are wooden or concrete-based. And a qualitative solution to the problem related to how to lay the floors in the bath will determine the quality of the reception of bath procedures and the durability of both the floor itself and the bath as a whole.

Let's find out how the floors in the bath can be equipped with their own hands.

Wooden floor

Gender with wooden coating can be non-leaking and leaking. For each of them, the installation instructions are different.

Installation of non-leaking floors

The most simple design gender and the procedure is as follows:

Floor beams are usually mounted during the laying of a log house, cutting them into the first row of beams or logs.. Usually they rest on the foundation if it is a strip foundation or masonry between the pillars in the case of a column foundation.
If this has not been done, then the beams can be cut even after the construction of the walls and roof. Or make the floor in the bath rooms independent of the foundation and walls. It will not affect how to lay the floor in the bath.
In this case, separate columns must be laid out under the floor beams. They are made in the same way as the foundation columns.

Attention: The top level of the posts should not be higher than the level of the foundation.
Yes, and below is undesirable, this will allow us to solve many problems in the future.

Boards are solidly nailed to the floor beams from below, or bars of 50x50 mm are nailed in the lower part of the sides of the beams. A draft floor is laid on these bars.

After that, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the draft boards..
One or two are placed on the vapor barrier. It can be mineral wool or basalt wool insulation.
Then another layer of vapor barrier spreads.

A grooved floorboard is laid on top of the beams.

If such floors are made for a steam room or washing room, then the floor surface should have a slight slope, about 2 cm per meter of distance along the floor.

This slope should be towards a wall or towards a special water receiver built into the floor. For a steam room, it is best to use hardwood, they are softer and high temperature do not emit harmful resins.

Speaking about how to lay the floor in a bathhouse (), such a slope is not necessary, and the material for these rooms can be any: both coniferous and deciduous.

Installation of leaking floors

Such floors are laid only in the steam room and washing room, that is, where water drainage is necessary. Before laying the floor in this type of bath, it is necessary to prepare the soil under the future flooring.

In order to mount a leaking floor, do the following:

The ground inside the room is leveled, and a layer of sand is poured on it and compacted so that as a result this layer becomes approximately 10 cm.
Then a layer of crushed stone is poured - 10 cm.
A concrete screed is made from above, while creating a slope towards the water receiver. Water should be discharged either into a septic tank, or further from the bath into the ground, which should absorb water well.
At the end of the pipe that drains water, it is necessary to mount a special lock that does not let odors into the bath.
Boards or narrow slats are mounted on the beams, so that there is a gap of one to two centimeters between them.

Attention: Wood must be treated with special compounds to extend the life of the material.

bulk floors

Having considered the previous two methods, it becomes clear that there is free space for the floor beams. As a result, in winter it is quite cool in the lower part of the room, and good insulation is required.

But you can do otherwise, and when deciding how to lay the floors in the bath, you can avoid laying insulation or cold air in case of leaking floors.

It is done like this:

Floor beams are not installed at all.
A layer of sand, approximately 15-20 cm, is covered and rammed onto the ground.
Either crushed stone or expanded clay is poured onto the sand, also with a layer of 15-20 cm, it is also leveled and rammed.

A concrete screed is poured from above within 10 cm.

wooden floors

Wooden logs are laid on the screed, on which the tongue-and-groove floorboards are already mounted. And in the same way, if it is a steam room or a washing room, then a slope is made to drain the water. If this is a rest room or dressing room, then there is no need to tilt.

Ceramic tile floor

You can do it differently, you can put ceramic tiles on even concrete very well. Using tile adhesive and tiles, a very durable, strong and reliable floor can be installed.

Attention: For the floor in the bath, a special, not slippery tiles, in order to avoid falls.

In conditions of high temperatures, such as in a steam room. It makes sense to lay cork mats or a lattice of wooden bars on the floor.

Compared with wooden floors, concrete-based floors have the advantage of being less expensive and having a much longer service life. But concrete and tile floors cannot create an atmosphere of peace and comfort in the bath.

The situation in the bath with wooden floors, the same walls allows you to get a good rest, so before laying the floor in the bath, you should think carefully about what will be more useful, not cheaper.

Floor replacement

Nothing is eternal, and no matter how much we would like, but often a situation arises related to how to change the floor in the bath.

There may be several reasons:

The old floor has fallen into disrepair.
It does not perform the functions of water drainage.
He just got bored.
The floor is cold, slippery, etc.

And here, first of all, you need to look at what is available and what you want to receive. Most often, the old coating is completely removed and an analysis is made of what remains under it.

Depending on the diagnosis, either everything is removed, after which the floor is installed as new. Either done redecorating and new flooring is being installed.

Possible option complete replacement one floor type to another. Then, too, everything old is removed and everything new is mounted.

Output

The floor in the bath has the same important function as the walls and ceiling. And it largely depends temperature regime indoors and how comfortable it is to be in this room without shoes. Therefore, it is important to correctly, in compliance with all stages, install the floor elements and lay the floor covering.

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