How to get rid of black dots on indoor flowers. Pests of indoor plants, photos and measures to combat them

Many lovers of ornamental plants may notice small black dots on the underside of the leaf. And only a few know that these are thrips on indoor plants - small pests that become especially aggressive in spring and summer, causing great harm to the crop. Pests suck sap from flowers and leaves and also transmit viral diseases. As a result of their influence, flowers fall off, leaves dry out, and secretions of their vital activity appear, on which sooty fungus can settle.

1. What is flower thrips
2. Signs of thrips damage to flowers
3. Methods for identifying and preventing thrips
4. Methods for controlling thrips

Most often it goes to dracaenas, varieties of palms, ficus, citrus, roses, monstera and laurel. Lesions in the form of black dots are not the only manifestation of the disease; viral infections that spread to nearby healthy flowers are also observed.

Flower thrips are dipterous insects whose length ranges from 0.5 to 5 mm. Young pests are colored green, yellow and pale yellow; adult individuals are found in black, sandy and brown shades. In this way, the insects manage to camouflage themselves, making them difficult to detect. The larvae are too small, lay eggs, and have a gray or light tint.

There are many types of this pest. Thus, one of the most dangerous for ornamental crops is the Western Californian flower thrips, which is an individual up to two millimeters long, located in buds, inflorescences, and on leaves. The pest likes to settle on indoor plants such as roses, gerberas, chrysanthemums, cyclamens, etc. Given the location of thrips on indoor plants, their treatment is difficult, since most of the population is inaccessible to chemical influence.

Signs of thrips damage to flowers

Characteristic signs of plant damage by pests are:

• the presence of yellow spots on the surface of the sheets at the beginning of infection;
• the appearance of silvery dotted streams at further stages of disease development (not necessary for all types of insects);
• on the lower part of the leaf there may be an accumulation of yellow and brown spots, as well as black dots;
• Over time, spots and lines merge;
• holes may appear at the site of the lesions, leaves wither and fall off;
• when the buds are infected with Western flower thrips, deformation of the inflorescences is determined. So, roses have flowers that remain closed.

Pronounced viral symptoms of crop disease are:

• yellowish or brownish round spots on the leaves;
• the stem is covered with a coating of black or Brown;
• Damage to the leaf bases in the form of necrosis is observed.

From the beginning of the infection process to the appearance of signs of activity of the Californian color triplex, 1-2 weeks pass, during which a new generation is formed.

Methods for identifying and preventing thrips

For early identification and detection of insects, it is recommended to regularly inspect flowers and leaves of crops, especially from the underside. During a visual inspection, it should be taken into account that, for example, Western California flower thrips likes to be located in the most illuminated areas, gathering on flowers and the top leaves. Blue and yellow sticky traps will help you identify thrips on indoor plants.

Preventive care for pets involves cleaning them from dust, spraying them, you need to ensure that the air is not very dry, that is, maintaining sufficient humidity in the room.

Too much nitrogen fertilizer promotes the development of flower thrips. An insect can get into an apartment with bouquets brought from the street. It is quite difficult to remove pests from buds and flowers, since it is necessary to shake them off and hit them on a table with white paper placed on it, on which the insects will remain.

Methods for controlling thrips

It is quite difficult to get rid of thrips on indoor plants, so at the first signs of the disease it is necessary to isolate the crop and clean it of infected elements (leaves, flowers).

At the initial stages of infection, you can wipe the plant with a solution of laundry soap using a soft sponge. This measure will not eliminate the pest, but will only reduce its population. It is recommended to leave the flower in soap under a plastic bag for some time.

Treatment with water with a few drops of machine oil, kerosene or foliage polishing agent diluted in it is effective. However, it should be remembered here that such products are harmful to the plant, so their use on crops with thin and delicate leaves is excluded. Leathery leaves can be wiped 3-4 times with alcohol.

In case of severe damage to flowers by pests, it is impossible to do without treating thrips on indoor plants with the help of chemicals. Row similar means quite large: Fitoverm, Mospilan, Aktara (as a sprayer or adding to the root), Confidor, Intavir, Dantop, Apache, etc. Specialized stores may offer products under different names. A drug such as Spintor, an insecticide of natural origin, has proven itself to be quite effective.

The most important thing when purchasing chemicals is to carefully study the instructions for use, and before processing, wash the plant with water. Chemical treatment will have to be carried out not once, but in several stages. In the period between manipulations, flower stalks must be removed.

If, after treating the crop against Western flower thrips with an insecticide, the pest returns again, then there is no need to despair. It's worth trying another remedy. After all, the effects of drugs are different; perhaps another drug will be more reliable and effective.

If the infection is mildly affected by flower thrips, you can try traditional methods of protection. For example, mix 85 gr. garlic, passed through a garlic press, 50 ml. mineral or vegetable oil with 10 ml. laundry soap and 950 ml. water. The mixture should sit for 24 hours. Before use, you need to dilute the solution in a ratio of 1 to 19 with water, that is, 950 g. take 50 ml of water. mixtures. Spray the plant with the resulting substance.

Spider mites

The most common pest of indoor flowers. Characteristic signs damage: if the leaf is exposed to light, pinpoint punctures, whitish or yellowish, can be seen. Gradually they merge into spots. The leaves turn pale and acquire a grayish tint. Then the leaves dry out and completely lose color. This is a typical pattern, but in some cases the leaves turn red or bronze. In some plants, the leaves do not change shape even when the spots are large, in other cases they are severely deformed and curled.

Photo of a spider mite - a pest close-up

Here are photographs of spider mites for quick identification of the pest on indoor plants. How to distinguish who is eating your flowers and how to deal with the pest.

The leaves turn yellow, cobwebs have appeared on the flowers, dots appear on the leaves as if pricked by a needle, the flowers do not grow, the tops of the shoots wither - these are signs of spider mites. Tips from experienced gardeners on how to deal with ticks folk remedies or using chemistry.

Oribati mites

A package of orchids arrived, and there were black bugs, like ticks, running around quickly. Who is this?

Oribatid mites or oribatids are soil arthropods. By 2015, more than 7,000 species of oribatid mites have been described. Who are they - pests or beneficial living creatures? Do we need to destroy them, what means should we use to fight them? What to do if orchid mites have settled in orchid pots.

What do armored mites look like, how to distinguish them from herbivorous mites: spider mites, flat mites and broad mites.

Thrips on indoor flowers are not uncommon; they enter our home from the street, garden flowers, purchased indoor plants, and cut flowers (from bouquets). They spread very quickly on house plants, sucking juices from them, contaminating the leaves with skins and excrement. Thrips is dangerous because it has several stages of development, some of which are secretive - females lay eggs directly in the leaf tissue, and nymphs hide in the ground. In addition, eggs and nymphs have integuments that protect them from the action of contact insecticides. Therefore, the fight against thrips takes place in several stages.

Close-up photo of thrips - pest

Silver spots, discolored areas appear on the leaves, the shoots dry out and become deformed, the plant does not bloom, the leaves turn yellow, small black drops or crumbs appear on the surface of the leaves - these are signs of thrips. Look at photos of the pest and compare it with your plant.

You might find some tips on how to deal with thrips useful.

From point of view indoor floriculture the danger of scale insects is that due to parthenogenesis - the birth of females without fertilization, scale insects can reproduce, all year round, producing about 5-6 generations, the process of changing generations is continuous. At the same time, males among indoor scale insects are extremely rare, but if they appear, for some reason they are very scary. Someone begins to think that this unknown, terribly gluttonous creature. In fact, the development cycle of scale insects, with or without males, is no different. The males themselves do not harm the plants - they simply have nothing to eat. In fact, male scale insects hatch for a single mission - fertilization, therefore, all they have are eyes, wings and genitals.

Photo of scale insect - close-up pest

What do scale insects and false scale insects look like - brown spots on stems, petioles, leaves, translucent or with a dense brown shield, flat or convex. The smallest ones are almost invisible, but if you peel it off and press it with a needle, a wet mark remains. And how the leaves of various plants affected by scale insects look, look at the photographs of various plants.

Advice from experienced gardeners on how to cure scale insects using folk remedies and medications.

Mealybug

The bristlebug or mealybug is a small insect that lives on plants. Its body is covered with a white, waxy coating, which makes clusters of pests look like cotton balls.

Scale insects cause serious damage to indoor plants, and it is quite difficult to remove them at home. What to look for: If the leaves turn yellow and fall off, the shoots are stunted, small white spots are visible on the stems or under the leaves. Scale insects climb under the bark of indoor fruit exotics, under the scales of bulbs of hippeastrums and other bulbous plants, and hide in the fluffy hairs on the stems of begonias. Sooty fungi can settle on the secretions of scale insects.

Close-up photo of mealybug - pest

You won’t always notice this pest right away: scale insects can hide for a long time in the root zone, near the surface of the ground, or in the axils of leaves.

And only when the colony of scale insects grows numerous and voracious will the pests be noticeable on the leaves. But by this time, as a rule, the plant withers, turns yellow irrevocably and dies.

Whitefly

Whitefly is a pest of indoor and garden plants, all species reproduce easily in an apartment; some species winter quietly in mid-latitudes and breed under our windows in the spring. The whitefly especially loves celandine, which grows under our windows, and in gardens it spoils any vegetables, especially cabbage, and berries.

How to identify the pest - photo of whitefly, measures to combat whitefly.

At home, aphids can cause harm all year round. They multiply quite quickly, forming colonies that cover more and more territory. But unlike mites, aphids are large pests and are easy to see with the naked eye. Aphids focus on the most tender parts of the plant - the tops of shoots, buds, flowers. For many plants, the easiest way is to prune the affected shoots and tear off the flower stalks. For plants that form a rosette, wash the leaves with a sponge and green soap, and clean the leaf axils with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.

If aphids are very rampant on indoor flowers, spray the plants with any insecticide. The following drugs will help you: Aktara, Confidor, Tanrek, Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Iskra, Iskra-Bao, Deciss and other drugs.

Green potassium soap is also an indispensable helper in gardens - it has no odor and is not poisonous to people. Potassium soap should be diluted at the rate of 20 g of liquid green soap per 1 liter of water. Spray secluded places especially carefully - the tops of shoots, leaf axils, apply a foam cap on the buds. Do not rinse off the soap solution!

About how to fight aphids on garden plot read: How to kill aphids

Nematode

Nematode happens various types, the root usually forms spherical growths or swellings. Stem or leaf nematodes do not form swellings, but cause severe deformation leaves, stems, buds. Flowers, as a rule, do not even open. Begonias, gloxinias, ficuses, and ferns suffer greatly from nematodes. Their leaves wrinkle, seem to shrink, turn brown between the veins, young ones grow immediately twisted and ugly.

Some types of nematodes also form galls on flowers; nematode damage is often accompanied by symptoms of bacterial infections.

Fungus gnats

Sciarides or fungus gnats are small annoying midges that appear in flowers and fly throughout the apartment. They do not harm themselves, they do not eat the flowers, but mosquitoes are a sure sign that the plants are systematically flooded. You need to check the soil in pots with flowers, because if you do not eliminate waterlogging, the roots of the plants may rot.

If mosquitoes manage to lay eggs in the soil, they hatch into larvae that feed on rotting organic matter and can partially damage plant roots.

Mining flies

The larvae of these flies gnaw out the core of the leaves, leaving discolored patterns of passages on them - min. They damage the leaves of trees, shrubs, including conifers, and herbaceous plants, V room conditions can affect violets (Sainpaulia), succulents (euphorbia, sedum), hibiscus syngonium and other plants...

Root mites

Root and onion mites feed on the underground part of plants - they gnaw out bulbs and feed on succulent roots. They are detected at a stage when the plant has already been severely damaged - growth is inhibited, the leaves turn yellow, buds and flowers do not form, sometimes one-sided drying out of the crown occurs - in individual branches, but more often in the plant general signs starvation - chlorosis. Often, wounds on the roots and bulbs become infected, and the plant becomes infected with fusarium.

High soil moisture promotes more rapid proliferation of root mites. Very often, affected indoor plants, especially small and tender ones, die. The best prevention is soil disinfection and quarantine of all purchased plants.

Occasional pests: woodlice, weevil, enchitraea, caterpillars

There are pests that appear quite rarely in flower pots - these are enchytraea; woodlice and earthworms can be brought in with the soil for planting plants; weevils or woodlice can get into the house from garden soil. If you have something crawling in your pot, look here, you might recognize the pest...

Many of them are not as dangerous as they seem, and sometimes not dangerous at all, for example, poduras or enchitraea can eat rotting plant roots, but in themselves do not cause the death of indoor flowers. Plants die from overwatering and putrefactive infections.

Poduras, springtails, springtails

Some small white fleas are jumping in pots with indoor plants. Gray worms swim in the tray after watering. Small brown spiders crawl around the roots. All these are soil inhabitants - springtails, springtails and podras. Harmless, in essence, inhabitants of soil rich in humus and organic matter. They come to our house with soil from the garden or store-bought soil. But as long as the soil moisture is moderate, the bugs are not visible. When the soil inside the pot does not dry out for many days, the roots of the plants begin to rot, and the duras multiply in large numbers.

Podura is a sign of poor care for indoor plants, systematic waterlogging, frequent watering, or incorrectly selected soil (too moisture-intensive, heavy, non-porous).

Avoid appearance indoor pests no one can: neither a novice gardener nor an experienced one. Some, scale insects or aphids, infect many species indoor plants, others are more selective and prefer individual species and under certain conditions. For example, mites rarely harm the ficus benjamina, but the scale insect eats it with pleasure.

If pests are detected, you must first get rid of them mechanically by wiping the leaves and stems with a sponge soaked in a soap solution. It is imperative to remove damaged buds, flowers, leaves and shoots; if the leaves begin to turn yellow or become stained, they will not recover. If the pest is noticed on only one plant, it is better to isolate the flower pot and watch the rest.

Try not to use insecticides unless absolutely necessary, especially toxicity class 2. All pest control chemicals are unsafe for humans and animals (birds and fish). All of them release toxic substances to one degree or another. Therefore, if it is possible to fight pests with folk remedies, i.e. herbs, onion skins, as well as biological plant protection products, then you should definitely try them first.

Currently, the issue of using pesticides (plant protection products against diseases and pests) is approached quite carefully, but for now we can see a warning on the packaging with chemicals about precautions, and they may not be completely safe.

Folk remedies for pests of indoor plants

• Yarrow - 80 g of dry crushed leaves, pour 1 liter of boiling water and leave for 36-48 hours, spray against aphids, thrips, mites.
• Tobacco, shag - leave 40 g in 1 liter of water for two days, strain and dilute with another 1 liter of water, spray against aphids and thrips.
• Onions - leave 15 g of chopped onions in 1 liter of water for 5-7 hours in a tightly closed container, spray against aphids and mites.
• Celandine during flowering - infuse 300-400 g of fresh or 100 g of dry celandine in 1 liter of water for 24-36 hours, spray against false scale insects, aphids, thrips.
• Kerosene -2 g per 10 liters of water + 40 g of laundry soap - against thrips and mites.
• Dandelion officinalis - 300-500 g of crushed roots or fresh leaves, infused for 2 hours in 10 liters warm water, filter and spray against thrips and mites.
• Marigold flowers - pour a glass of dried flowers into 1 liter of warm water, leave for 2 days, filter and spray the affected plants against thrips.
• Alder leaves - a glass of dry alder leaves is poured with one liter of boiling water and left for 24 hours. Then it is heated to 50 °C and kept in this infusion before planting the bulbs and tubers for 5 minutes. In this way, root mites are prevented.
• Wood ash - 1 cup of ash is infused in 5 liters of water, then a quarter of a piece of grated laundry soap is added there, sprayed against ticks and thrips.

Are your flowers getting sick even though you comply with all the conditions? In this case, you should suspect a pest! In home conditions, which are often far from natural, flowers are more vulnerable. Online diagnostics will help you recognize ticks, aphids, scale insects, etc. Pests of indoor flowers: photos, signs and methods of combating them.

Spider mite

The most common and insidious pest! Spider mites thrive on indoor plants, especially in winter and early spring. Heating, dry air and heat create favorable conditions for its reproduction. Considering that this flower beetle is very prolific, it can easily migrate to other “neighbors”!

The tick is an arachnid and can look different. The most common types are common spider mites, red mites and cyclamen mites.

Signs

Regardless of the type of mite, the results of its activity cause the death of the leaf! The harmful insect feeds on flower sap, sucking it from leaves and young shoots. This immediately affects the appearance of the flowers: they lose their brightness, richness, and fade. On some plants, yellow spots appear, which gradually lead to yellowing of the foliage, on others, the leaves dry out at the edges and become deformed. Often, a tick can leave behind a cobweb, which is visible in the gap between the branches and leaves. And sometimes you can see the pests themselves! Thus, the common white mite is visible to the naked eye on the inside at the base of the leaf. The cyclamen mite prefers fluffy plants, and the red mite even settles on the petals of flowering plants.

Risk group
The common mite mainly affects decorative deciduous trees: hibiscus, ficus Benjamin, fuchsia, citrus fruits, dracaenas, tradescantia, adenium, ivy. Although it is dangerous for all indoor flowers, succulents are less susceptible to its effects.

The cyclamen mite prefers plants with fluffy leaves - cyclamen, violets, gloxinia. The red mite can settle on any plant, but its favorite food is flowering species– roses, balsams, callas, orchids, and also citrus fruits.

Treatment and prevention

Most ticks cannot tolerate high air humidity, so most the best prevention is regular spraying (not only the top, but also the underside of the leaf) and a warm shower. If pests are already present on the plant, you can wash the leaves with a solution of laundry soap. In summer, if possible, take flowers out into the garden or onto the balcony! At first, spraying with a solution of green soap can help!

If the mite has managed to spread widely and damage the leaves, you will have to resort to the help of acaricides - chemical preparations to combat mites. These include “Akarin”, “Agrovertin”, “Inta-vir”, “Vertimek”. “Neoron” destroys not only mites, but also their larvae, and “Fitoverm” is the safest for plant microflora. To prevent the tick from returning, you need to correct mistakes in care!

Scale insect and false scale insect

Insects from the family of scale insects, whose body is covered with a shield. This feature not only determined the name of the pest, but also made it invulnerable to spraying with chemicals. But unlike the previous representative, the scale insect does not move; on the contrary, having attached itself to the plant, it remains motionless. So it's easy to spot!

Scale insects are sucking insects; they, like leeches, suck out the sap of the plant, while secreting a sticky liquid that clogs the pores, preventing the flower from breathing. The false scale insect is a close relative of the scale insect, surpassing it in size. By the way, this harmful family has many varieties: they are round, oval, white, brown, brown from 2 to 7 mm in size.

Signs

Affected flowers lag behind in growth and development, shed leaves and buds. Scale insects on indoor plants literally “stick around” the branches and even the main trunk, and can also hide in the axils of the leaves. Externally, these pests look like droplets of wax, or growths! Small scale insects form clusters that resemble plaque along the stems and leaf veins. As a result, leaves and even branches may die, first becoming covered with red-brown or yellow spots. Scale insects are especially dangerous for young shoots!

Risk group
Deciduous plants (especially ferns, asparagus, ivies, lemons, begonias) are most often chosen as the location of the scale insect, but it can also appear on succulents (ficus, zamioculcas), and also often affects orchids.

Treatment and prevention

Provoking factors for the proliferation of scale insects are dry air and lack of light, characteristic of winter period. They can also enter the apartment from the street! Weakened, diseased plants, in which metabolic processes are disrupted for one reason or another, are a real bait for scale insects. Healthy flowers with strong immunity are protected from these pests!

First of all, it is necessary to remove dead parts and also remove all visible scale insects. This can be done with a warm shower, a soft sponge (or soft brush) and laundry soap. An alternative would be soaked lemon juice, or a cotton swab with vinegar solution. Alcohol can burn an already damaged plant, and oil will clog the pores!

At this stage, you can get rid of older individuals that are not affected by insecticidal sprays. To destroy not visible to the eye scale insects and their larvae, it is better to play it safe and additionally treat the plant with insecticides. For these purposes, the drugs “Aktara”, “Aktellik”, “Arrivo”, “Fitoverm” are used. The most gentle method of control is a solution of green soap, but it is effective in the initial stages!

Thrips

Another type of sucking pests, which, unlike the previous ones, for the time being hide in the thickness of the leaf. The fact is that the larval stage occurs inside the leaves, where thrips reproduce. By the time they grow up and find themselves outside, they will already have time to do quite a lot of damage to the plant! The development cycle lasts about 20 days, after which the larvae turn into insects with small elongated bodies measuring 1.5 mm, which easily fly from branch to branch and are capable of infecting all specimens in the home collection.

Thrips disrupt the structure of the leaf plate, the leaf becomes deformed, loses color, darkens or becomes discolored and gradually dies. In addition, adult insects, like scale insects, leave behind sticky secretions that clog the pores of the plant and can provoke fungal diseases.

Signs

In the initial stage, thrips are not difficult to identify by the characteristic markings on the leaves. Chaotic light dots, “strokes” and entire paths appear on the surface of the sheet, which gradually spread, and ultimately can merge into one large whitish spot! Adult insects can also be seen with the naked eye - they have a dark oblong body, are able to fly, and when they land on a flower, they leave behind a silvery trail of sticky secretions.

Risk group
The pest is omnivorous, but its favorite plants are palm trees with large leaves, citrus crops and even succulents (ficus rubber, hoya, monstera, aspidistra, laurel, eucharis, syngonium, senoplia).

Treatment and prevention

The main thing is to notice the first signs of the appearance of thrips on indoor plants in time, so that they do not have time to develop from larvae. In this case, you can stop the process with insecticides by spraying and root treatments. After all, being inside the leaf, pests become invulnerable to external disinfection, which is why they water it at the root! But to prevent insects from appearing outside, the above-ground part is sprayed.

At the initial stages, green copes well with this task. vegetable soap(you can buy it in flower and garden stores). If thrips has severely affected the plant, use the preparations “Aktara”, “Dantop”, “Apache” (for root treatment), as well as “Fitoverm”, “Intavir” (for external treatment).

The website flowery-blog.ru advises regularly inspecting inner side leaves, spray plants, ventilate the room. Thrips can appear even in summer, but they, like other pests, choose weaker flowers as their “target”.

Mealybug

These pests are popularly called “hairy lice”; they are the closest relatives of scale insects and are also sucking insects. They were called that because appearance– clusters look like cotton wool. Mealybugs on indoor plants love young shoots, leaves and buds! It sucks out the juice, severely inhibits the growth of plants, causes the death of its parts, young shoots, shedding of buds, buds, drying out and deformation of shoots and leaves.

This enemy sometimes hides in the axils of leaves, becoming invisible, but multiplies very quickly, so it spreads to the soil, shoots and even roots. More than 2,000 species of scale insects are known in nature; all of them pose a danger to plants! IN indoor culture It is the white mealybug that is most common.

Signs

The bug is bad at hiding; it is revealed by white cotton-like secretions in which the female insects lay eggs! Usually, clusters of them can be seen in the axils of new leaves, on young shoots. In addition to the “pieces” of cotton wool, you can also notice the pests themselves - they are not large, about 3 mm in size, also white in color, with an oblong body.

Risk group
It’s impossible to say exactly which plants the scale insect loves! Its target can be both decorative foliage species, succulents and even cacti. For example, monstera, chrysolidocarpus, nolina, Kalanchoe, anthurium, camellia, azalea, clivia, amaryllis, hibiscus, asparagus.

Treatment and prevention

It’s not difficult to exterminate an unexpected guest at first! Just wipe the leaves and remove white coating and disinfect affected areas. This can be done using a cotton swab or a soft brush. A soap solution is suitable for cleaning, and for subsequent disinfection - calendula tincture, or any herbal alcohol infusion. good preventive measure is spraying with a solution of green soap. This will help prevent relapse!

In case of severe damage by scale insects, more radical therapy is needed - watering and spraying with insecticides - "Aktara", "Vermitek", "Intavir", "Tsvetofos", "Fitoverm". If the bug has managed to spread, it is better to completely replace the soil in the pot, after first inspecting and washing the roots with running water.

It is necessary to periodically inspect the flowers for the presence of an evil insect. Especially young leaves and shoots! The scale insect does not like humidity, so spray and wipe the plants more often.

Whitefly

A sucking insect, about 3 mm long, similar in appearance to a white moth. Reproduces quite quickly, laying eggs in groups on inner surface leaf. Adult insects also stay in groups, sucking juices from leaves and young branches - the most tender parts! As a result, the leaves become discolored, turn yellow and fall off.

These houseplant pests can fly, but they usually sit lazily on the inside surfaces of leaves until disturbed. While feeding, these nasty flies leave waste products on plants, which subsequently become the basis for the development of fungus. Most often, the whitefly can be seen in the summer; it is also a garden pest and a frequent visitor to greenhouses.

Signs

Recognizing whiteflies on flowers is as easy as pie: white larvae remain on the underside of the leaf, forming groups, as well as a characteristic whitish coating. At this stage it is easiest to deal with the pest!

Risk group
Most often, plants with delicate leaf plates and thin epithelium become victims of whiteflies. These are nephrolepis, tradescantia, pereromnia, fuchsia, pelargonium, ficus Benjamin, abutilon, balsam.

Treatment and prevention

At the larval stage, the insect can be eradicated by spraying with insecticides, the most effective of which is Aktara. “Agravertin”, “Inta-vir”, “Akarin”, “Fitoverm” are also suitable. If the insects have already turned into moths, spraying alone is not enough, because the white moth is very mobile. In this case, use adhesive tapes, which catch flies. They will become traps for flying whiteflies!

Like other aggressors, this one also loves dry air and warmth. Spray and wipe the leaves more often, inspect them from all sides to catch the pest in time, ventilate the room more often.

Outwardly, it is also similar to a moth, but differs in color (from light green to black), the size of adult insects is about 3 mm. Lives in large colonies, mainly on garden flowers! An indicator of aphid spread in garden conditions are ants that absorb the sweet secretions of aphids. These secretions attract other insects and serve as a provoking factor for the development of fungal diseases.

Aphids on indoor plants can be found in the summer. Feeding on their juice, aphids infect young shoots, interfere with development and growth, and cause deformation of old leaves and leaf fall. A plant attacked by aphids quickly dies! Therefore, it is important to have time to get rid of the insect before it multiplies greatly. Aphids and other pests of garden flowers.

Signs

The appearance of aphids can be observed on the apical shoots, buds, and young branches that the adult pest adheres to. As a result, the leaves curl and become deformed. Aphids do not always know how to fly; there are also wingless individuals! Aphid larvae usually hide on the lower surface of the leaf.

Risk group
Like whiteflies, aphids select plants with delicate foliage. The most vulnerable are decorative deciduous species with small leaves.

Treatment and prevention

The treatment is also similar to the previous case! Timely treatment with insecticidal and antifungal drugs (Akarin, Aktara, Iskra-bio, Inta-vir, etc.) can help. It is important to quarantine the plant in time and inspect those near it, because aphids move easily!

If the insect did not manage to occupy the entire plant, you can cope without toxic drugs - give the flower a warm shower using laundry soap, or spray it with a solution of green soap.

Useful materials:
Traditional recipes for pest control.
Diseases of indoor flowers: signs and treatment.

How to drive away flower midges. Sterilization of soil mixture - methods.

Now thrips, scale insects, mites and other pests of indoor flowers will not go unnoticed, and you can effectively fight them.

If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ✿ If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Caring for indoor plants

To grow indoor flowers, you need to be familiar with the basic rules of caring for them. Some plants require minimal attention, others (rare or tropical specimens) are very capricious. The slightest mistake leads to their death or loss of their presentable appearance.

First of all, the gardener must know how to get rid of pests. There are quite a lot of types of them. Appear on house flowers: aphids, thrips, scale insects, false scale insects, spider mite, mealybug, fungus gnat, root mites.

1 Harmful and persistent aphids

The simplest and most common pest is aphids. It comes with or without wings. Individuals are egg-shaped. Dangerous due to rapid reproduction. They don't have to have a female nearby. Most often, “clones” simply appear. In terms of species, pests are very diverse; they can be yellowish in color and even black.

Aphids are capable of sucking sap from a plant. At the same time, the pests release poison. After the toxin gets on the leaves, they become twisted and deformed. After some time they die off. The tops of the plant become twisted. The shoots stop growing.

The waste products of aphids (aphids) heavily contaminate the leaf blades of flowers. As a result, the normal functioning of crops is disrupted.

Aphids are carriers of various viruses. They are transmitted through the pest's saliva. Infection causes enormous damage to plants.

It is very easy to notice signs of damage on plants. Pests settle in large colonies, most often on the fleshy, juicy and most tender parts of the plant. They leave behind a residue. If there are a lot of aphids, then their larvae can make the plant weak and dilapidated.

If pests are detected, it is best to bathe the plant in the shower and then spray it with a special preparation designed to combat aphids. A week later, for prevention, the plant is treated again.

Types of palm-like indoor plants and their care

2 Thrips

Thrips are found almost every day. If you pick up an onion and remove the top husk, you can see the second layer. If it is sticky and unpleasant to the touch, and has a silvery tint, it means that harmful effects thrips.

Noticing pests on a plant is not so easy. Its features are:

• elongated body (dimensions can be up to five millimeters);
• unremarkable color (can be black, gray or brown).

Thrips are omnivores. They can devour with gusto tender rose, so prickly cactus. Plant tissue damaged by pests dies. In its place, black dots form and large holes. The leaves fall and wither. The plant loses its presentable appearance.

As a preventative measure you should:

• humidify the air in the room (this type of pest does not like moisture);
• inspect the leaves both on the underside and on the surface;
• Give flowers showers from time to time.

After getting rid of the problem, the flowers are treated with a systemic fungicide. This type of pest is capable of transferring diseases from one plant to another.

Diseases of indoor flowers and ways to combat them

3 Scale insect, false scale insect

There are many varieties of scale insects. They feed on any crops. Once on the plant, they begin to secrete a sticky liquid on which the sooty fungus can settle.

The body of an adult insect has a hard waxy shield. This feature of the pest makes it resistant to the effects of drugs, so spraying does not always help. Young individuals do not have such protection; it is a little easier to deal with them.

Individuals (regardless of age) cause serious damage to the plant. They feed on its juice. Even poisonous crops are susceptible to their attack.

After the pest appears, the young shoots of the plant begin to dry out. After this, the flower stops sprouting new shoots. It pours and the stems turn yellow and then fall off. If you do not get rid of the scale insects at this stage, you may lose the plant.

For prevention, you should spray the plants and ventilate the room. If possible, you need to cut off the affected part of the flower. Specialized stores sell drugs designed to kill this type of insect. Inspection should be done every few days.

Methods for controlling pests and diseases of geranium

4 Spider mite

Spider mites appear unexpectedly. It is almost impossible to notice it until the plant itself shows that it is sick - spots appear on the leaves.

At the first sign of a pest, white dots can be seen on the back of the leaves. After this, the leaves dry out, may turn yellow, and the buds become deformed.

How active a tick will be directly depends on the temperature in the room. The higher she is, the more he likes it. If the conditions for the pest are not very suitable, then the females may begin to hide in the soil, under fallen leaves, or in potted cracks.

When caring for plants, it is better to collect fallen leaves, wipe them with a damp sponge, or bathe the flowers in warm water. The most the right way the fight is to spray with a solution of effective drugs that can be found in pharmacies or specialized stores. It is best to use several types of poisons. Such ticks adapt to them very quickly, and after a while they are not afraid of them.

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5 Mealybug

Mealybugs are another pest of indoor plants that are classified as sucking insects. The length of the individual reaches three and a half millimeters. Has a body oval shape with growths, whitish or pinkish color. Such a pest can settle either in the axils of the leaves or on the stem itself.

The insect has only one pair of wings. Its larvae are able to penetrate the roots of plants. Scale insects protect laid eggs with secretions that have a cotton-like structure.

Mealybugs pierce the leaves and buds of the plant, and then suck out its juice. They do this until the crop dries out. Young insects cause particular harm. This is explained by their mobility and the need for nutrients necessary for active growth. Those plants that have the misfortune of being attacked by pests shed their leaves. Their shoots begin to lag behind in development and growth.

At puberty in males it atrophies oral apparatus. They stop drinking the juices of the plant.

Scale insects secrete a liquid that promotes the development of sooty fungus. You can fight the pest manually, armed with a cotton swab. With its help, adults are removed. After this, you should carry out the procedure of spraying with preparations that will help destroy small specimens.

6 Fungus gnat (sciarids)

This pest is a black and gray insect with a narrow body and a rounded head. An adult is unable to harm the plant. The danger comes from the larvae that live in wet soil. They gnaw at the tender roots of the plant. After this, the crop begins to hurt, stops blooming, and withers. The plant may even die.

If there are a lot of midges, they begin to feed on the above-ground parts of the plant. Young shoots are destroyed first.

To identify this harmful insect, you need to carefully examine the soil in which the flower grows. If no mosquito larva comes into view, then everything is fine. It will be enough to simply destroy those insects that fly. To do this, resort to sticky tape or dichlorvos. If larvae are found, then you need to treat the soil with special powders, which can be recommended to the flower owner in the store. Barguzin is perfect for wrestling.

To avoid the appearance of pests, you do not need to heavily moisten the soil. The plant should be kept in dry conditions.

7 Root mites

Root mites are small in size. They are very tenacious, so it is not so easy to remove them.

The most famous is the bulb mite. He prefers to be on the bulbs of flowers such as: gladioli, hyacinths, tulips.

The pest lays a huge number of eggs after eating away the tissue inside the bulb. Subsequently, the bulb disintegrates and becomes soft and loose.

This type of tick loves a moist environment. The best way prevention is to store flower bulbs and tubers in a cool, dry place. In such an environment, such ticks are much less likely to survive and reproduce.

There are mites in almost any substrate. They may even be useful. Thanks to them, the microflora living in the soil can function normally. There are even predators that are ready to eat other plant pests, but these types of mites are not dangerous for the flowers themselves.

The best way to control pests is to prevent their spread. When purchasing, you need to carefully inspect the plant. At home, wash it and place it away from others for observation. It is not recommended to bathe plants together in the same container, place them on the same tray, swap trays, or place them too closely. All this increases the likelihood of pest spread. The soil for transplanting crops must be sterilized. To increase the resistance of flowers it has important compliance with growing and care conditions.

Applying chemicals, you must strictly follow the recommendations set out in the instructions, as well as take precautions when working with them. You should choose the safest drugs.

If the treatment does not help and pests appear on the plant again, do not despair. The methods of action of the drugs are different and, perhaps, another remedy will be more effective.

It is impossible to guarantee protection from all pests. But you need to approach flower growing wisely. If you treat plants with care, attention, and devote enough time to caring for them, then the house will always be green. Insects will not be able to significantly harm the flora if the owner does this.

The appearance of this pest cannot be confused with anything. This is a fairly large relative of the scale insect. The mealybug reaches up to 8 mm in length.

Female “hairy lice” have an undeveloped oval-shaped body, more typical of insect larvae. They lay numerous eggs in special sacs in the axils of the leaves. The shoots on which the pest lives are covered with a white, sticky waxy coating.

Males are not at all similar to females - they have wings and normally developed limbs, the body is divided into sections and ends in a bunch of tail filaments

Using their mouthparts, females and larvae easily pierce the surface of a leaf, bud or shoot and suck out the juices from it. Young scale insects are extremely mobile and easily move between plants. Sexually mature males do not feed because their mouthparts atrophy as they grow older.

Signs of Mealybug Infestation

To detect pests, it is enough to carefully examine the indoor plant.

Main features:

• drooping appearance, lethargy of leaves and shoots;
• underdeveloped buds, deformed leaves;
• white powdery coating with lumps;
• small “mosquitoes” (male scale insects) on the windows near the pots;
• the presence of sticky mucus (honey dew) on all parts of the plant;
• the presence of white inclusions in the earthen coma during transplantation;
• presence of white oval insects.

Any of these symptoms may indicate the appearance of a scale insect. Not a single flower is immune from infection. Special control should be given to citrus, amaryllis, cycad and palm plants, as well as cacti, violets and orchids.

The azalea often suffers from a pest, a photo of which is given in the article. The pest attacks young shoots. The leaves stop growing and begin to turn yellow. Azalea, a photo of which demonstrates its beauty, when struck by insects, loses its former appearance.

Harm to the plant

Mealybugs literally suck everything out of flowers nutrients, disrupting their growth and normal development. Sweet honeydew secreted by females provokes the development of associated fungal infections. Due to the sticky, impenetrable coating, the green pet's breathing becomes worse. This can cause the leaves to wilt and even fall off.

Mealy aphids (another name for mealybugs) do not prefer a specific part of the plant, attacking everything that comes in its way. Not only shoots, buds and leaves are under attack, but also roots. If treatment is not started as soon as possible, the bug will spread to surrounding indoor plants. In time he will destroy them all. Therefore, it is necessary to immediately declare war if you notice mealybugs on indoor plants. How to deal with the pest will be discussed below.

Causes of mealybugs

Why do these harmful insects appear?

There are several main reasons:

1. Presence of eggs and larvae in the soil. Even purchased soil can be contaminated, so it is very important to treat it with hot steam before use.
2. Transfer of larvae with newly acquired plants. New pets should be kept separately and carefully examined periodically. You can place them next to other flowers only after finally making sure that there are no pests.
3. Errors in care - low temperature indoor air, stagnation of moisture in the soil, insufficient lighting, excessive application of fertilizer. Improper care significantly reduces the plant’s immunity, causing various diseases.
4. The presence of dust on the leaves, irregular removal of dry parts.
5. Untimely replacement of soil in pots. Harmful insects can live inside a compacted earthen clod.
6. Poor quality water for irrigation.

Traditional methods of combating mealybugs

Now you know how dangerous the pest is for plants. You can easily determine that a mealybug has settled on indoor plants.

How to deal with such an insect? If the infection is small, you can try to get rid of it without special means.

Popular home control methods:

1. Infusion from medicinal herbs. To treat the plant, you can use horsetail and calendula. The powder purchased at the pharmacy should be brewed with boiling water. After the product has cooled, the plant is treated with it. To prepare the infusion, use the following ratios: 100 g of horsetail (calendula) per 1 liter of liquid.
2. Garlic tincture. This is enough effective method combating mealybugs. Peel and chop a medium-sized whole garlic head. Pour a liter of hot water and let it brew for 4 hours. Garlic tincture is applied to the leaves and trunk using cotton wool or a sponge.
3. Oil emulsion. Stir 2 tablespoons in a liter of warm water olive oil. Spray the affected leaves with a spray bottle.
4. Soap-alcohol solution. To prepare it, it is better to take natural soap, without perfume additives. For 1 liter of water, 1 teaspoon of grated soap and 1 tablespoon of ethyl alcohol. Spray the affected parts of the plant, avoiding getting the solution on the earthen ball. The procedure can be carried out once every 3 days. It is necessary to wash off the applied product one day after spraying.
5. Tincture of lemon and orange zest. A surprisingly simple recipe that allows you to effectively rid your plant of pests. Take lemon and orange peels and pour boiling water over them. The ratio is as follows: 30-50 g of zest per 1 liter of liquid. The product should be infused during the day. Then treat your green pets with this infusion using a spray bottle.

Chemicals for mealybugs

If ineffective traditional methods or large foci of infestation, one has to resort to chemical insecticides.

Widely available effective drugs against mealybug:

• "Decis".
• "Vertimek".
• "Tsvetofos".
• "Nurell D."
• "Phosfamide."
• "Bi-58".
• "Aktellik".
• "Fitoverm".
• "Aplaud."

There should not be any particular difficulties with such substances. The main thing is to read the instructions carefully and follow all safety precautions.

Affected plants must be quarantined. Usually 3-4 insecticide treatments are sufficient. If pests still remain, you need to change the product.

Precautionary measures

Make sure that the drugs you use do not cause harm:

1. Chemicals should only be used in a well-ventilated area.
2. Keep children and pets away from the area.
3. To avoid poisoning, use personal protective equipment.

Preventive measures

1. Periodically carefully inspect green spaces.
2. Regularly replant grown flowers.
3. Inspect the earthen ball during transplantation. Rinse the soil with hot water (about 55° C).
4. Properly care for flowers according to their preferences.
5. Promptly remove dying parts of the plant. Dried leaves can serve as a convenient hiding place for various pests.
6. Before planting, scald the pots with boiling water and steam the soil.
7. Observe quarantine measures for new plants.

Insects are an integral part of any ecosystem, but they have no place on the landscaped windowsills of apartments. Especially if mealybugs appear on indoor plants. You know how to deal with the pest. Therefore, use any available methods. After all, healthy house plants without pests actively develop and delight the eye with bright greenery and abundant flowering.

Aphid

Signs: Leaves are sticky. Deformed young shoots, withering flowers.
Features of the pest: These are fairly small insects of green color (black, orange, gray and green are found). It feeds on juice, sucking it from the soft tissues of the plant.
Method of control: At the initial stage, spray with a soap solution or nettle decoction, which is prepared in this way: 100 g of fresh nettle is soaked in 1 liter of water for 12-24 hours, then the plant is sprayed. Use without dilution, repeatedly. In more advanced case remove the most damaged parts of the plant and treat with permethrin-containing preparations or use derris.
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Soft-skinned or cyclamen mite

Signs: Leaves are curled and drying up, shoots have dried out brown tops, flowers dry up while still in buds.
Features of the pest: Tiny mites, accumulating in large quantities, resemble a layer of dust on the leaves from below. Settles on the underside of leaves. They love humidity and cool temperatures.
Method of control: In case of severe damage, the plant should be disposed of. If it is minor, it is enough to remove the diseased parts. You can use Karbofos, Neoron, Decis, Intavir, Fitoverm.
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Holes on the leaves

Signs: Eaten holes in leaves, damaged young shoots.
Features of the pest: At night, the caterpillar crawls out and eats leaves and shoots. During the day it hides under the leaves and in the ovaries of flowers.
Method of struggle: Used manual method collecting caterpillars. If the plant is exposed to the street, it can be sprayed for prevention.

Signs: Holes are observed on the leaves. The complete disappearance of leaf tissue is possible.
Features of the pest: Dark brown with 2 mite appendages. At night it eats leaves and hides during the day.
Method of control: Insects are collected by hand.

Signs: Something similar to paths or passages is observed on the leaves.
Features of the pest: Damage occurs mainly on outdoors. The larvae of leaf miners gnaw tunnels under the skin of leaves.
Method of control: Pluck and destroy affected leaves.

Snails, slugs

Signs: Chewed leaves, shiny mucus.
Peculiarities of the pest: Snails and slugs usually do not live in indoor conditions, as it is necessary wet air. But in a greenhouse, plants can be damaged. They feed mainly at night. During the day they hide in a damp place.
Method of control: Collected by hand. You can spray granular metaldehyde or mesurol over the soil surface.

Centipedes

Signs: United basal stems and lower leaves.
Features of the pest: These insects are dark brown or whitish in color and resemble caterpillars. Harmful to plants exposed to summer time to the garden.
Method of control: The soil in the pot should be dried and sprinkled with a layer of sand, you can use ash. Since centipedes love moisture, you can make a trap for them. A small board is placed next to the plant, under which insects will subsequently gather. Now they can be collected.

Grape elephant or weevil

Signs: Nibbled edges of leaves. Withering and drooping plant.
Features of the pest: Both beetles and larvae cause damage. The beetles chew off the edges of the leaves. The larvae are cream-colored (up to 2.5 cm), live in the ground, feed on roots, bulbs and tubers.
Method of control: If bugs appear on the leaves, you need to water with a systemic insecticide and also treat the leaves.

White spots and white coating on leaves and soil

Signs: White, cotton-like deposits are visible on the leaves. With heavy damage, the leaves wither, turn yellow, and fall off.
Features of the pest: Small insects, covered with white fluff, settling in large colonies on leaves and stems.
Method of control: Increase air humidity. Place the plant in a cool place.
Remove plaque with a soft damp cloth. In case of severe damage, systemic insecticides are used for spraying. In case of minor damage, apply the following solution with a brush several times: dilute 20 g of liquid soap in 1 liter of hot water, cool, add 20 ml of alcohol.

Signs: Whitish spots appear on the leaves, then they turn yellow, the leaves fall off. You can see the sugary secretions left by insects. It develops on them.
Features of the pest: Flying insect (up to 3 mm), similar to white moths. Attached to the underside of leaves. The larvae are pale green in color and oblong in shape. The eggs look like grayish grains.
Method of control: Next to the plants you should hang flypaper for flies. Eggs and larvae are regularly washed off the leaves. The underside of the leaves is sprayed with green soap up to 5 times with an interval of 7 days. You can use garlic infusion.
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Signs: Under the influence of mites, a thin whitish web appears under and between the leaves. Yellowish spots become visible on the upper side of the leaves. Leaves fall ahead of schedule.
Features of the pest: Adult mites are small (from 0.3 to 0.5 mm), red and purple-red in color. This small sucking arthropod, which settles on the underside of leaves, is quite common. It can affect almost all indoor plants located in a warm, dry room. Can be carried by wind.
Method of control: Increase humidity, regularly spray the plant. If you notice signs of mites, you should use a derris or systemic insecticide spray. You can prepare an infusion of chamomile. To do this, take 100 g of dried chamomile flowers and infuse them for 12 hours in 1 liter of water. Before use, dilute 1:3.
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Signs: White or slightly yellowish streaked spots on the leaves. As a result, the skin becomes dead, cracks, and the leaves become twisted and deformed.
Features of the pest: Brown or green. Reaches a size of up to 0.6 mm. The mite lays dark red eggs on leaves.
Method of control: Stems and leaves are wiped with soapy water on both sides. In case of significant damage, spray with insecticides (Fitoverm, Agravertin, Neoron, Fufan, etc.).

Root aphid (root mealybug)

Yellow leaves or yellow spots

Signs: The leaves turn yellow, then the plant withers and dies. The root system is affected.
Features of the pest: Found in the ground. Insects look like small white worms that settle at the roots of the plant and feed on them.
Method of struggle: Remove old land, wash the roots and plant in good soil.

Signs: Yellow leaves, the growth of the plant stops and it withers.
Features of the pest: Lives in the soil. Most often affects cacti, bulbous plants, palm trees.
Method of control: maintain sufficient soil moisture. The diseased plant is watered about 3 times with preparations containing pyrethrum.

Root-knot nematode

Symptoms: Sticky leaves, covered in places with yellowish spots. When severely damaged, they dry out and fall off.
Features of the pest: Insects with a wide oval body of a brownish-brown color. They are found on the upper and lower sides of leaves, plant trunks, and shoots. Adults are immobile, only larvae disperse.
Method of control: Regularly inspect the plant, especially in the lower part. If you notice isolated cases of scale insects, it is better to remove it along with the leaf. For more extensive damage, use a soft cloth or brush moistened with soapy water or anabasine sulfate solution, or alcohol. Residues are cleaned off using a weak vinegar solution. In this way, you can deal with the adults, but invisible larvae remain on the leaves. Repeat 3 sprayings over 12 days with a solution of green potassium soap (20-30 g per 1 liter of water) or garlic infusion.
Detailed article about scale insects.

Brown and tan spots on leaves

Signs: Brownish-brown spots are visible on the underside of the damaged leaf, and whitish and silvery streaks are visible on the upper side, which are left by thrips as they crawl from leaf to leaf. Then the leaves may turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Flowers become stained and deformed.
Features of the pest: An insect with an oblong and black body with two pairs of wings. Lays white larvae, which later turn light yellow and have a transparent bubble on the back. They are collected on the underside of the leaf near its veins. Eggs are laid in leaf tissue.
Method of control: Leaves are washed with water with dissolved laundry soap. For complete destruction, pyrethrum diluted in water (2 g per 1 liter of water) is used for spraying, which is done twice with an interval of 8-10 days. They also use the slightly toxic drug thiophos (0.1-0.2%) or the moderately toxic ones - Nurell-D, Vertimek. Spraying with a decoction of tubers, infusion of tobacco and yarrow also gives results. For prevention, it is important to spray the plant with water, maintaining sufficient humidity.

Signs: Tick passages are visible. The affected parts of the plant are filled with brown dust.
Features of the pest: Small (up to 1 millimeter) yellowish or white mites that attack bulbous, tuberous plants, and orchids.
Method of control: Affected bulbs and tubers are destroyed. The earth is dried out.

Withering plant. Damaged root system.

Springtails, or springtails

Signs: Wilting plant. There are neat piles of earth on the surface of the earth. Insects are clearly visible under the pot in the tray and on the surface of the soil.
Features of the pest: Very mobile jumping insects from 1 to 4 millimeters different colors(from light to black). Depending on the species, they live in the ground or on the surface of the soil. They usually do not cause significant harm to the plant.
Method of control: It is necessary to dry the soil in flower pot. Add a layer of sand on top. In case of severe infection, immerse the pot in water, collect the floating insects, and treat the surface with insecticides. Dry the ground.

Earthworms

Signs: Causeless wilting, depressed appearance of the plant. There are characteristic piles of earth on the pallet.
Features of the pest: Large worms that feed on plant debris. When there is a shortage of food, they switch to underground shoots and roots.
Method of control: Watering is carried out with a weak pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. The crawling worms are collected. You can put the pot in hot water (50 degrees) and hold it for 15 minutes. When taking the plant outside, place the pots higher so that the worms cannot get in. Sterilization of garden and forest soil will help destroy worm eggs.

Signs: Plants wither and wither. Young roots are damaged.
Features of the pest: Also called fungus gnats. These are dark-colored midges, 3-4 millimeters in size, with long mustaches. They hatch from white larvae with a black head and approximately 4 mm in length. The mosquitoes themselves are not dangerous. And their larvae eat biological remains and young roots.
Method of control: An aerosol is used against adult individuals to kill flying insects or collected with a vacuum cleaner. To kill the larvae, Bazudin and Grom-2 are used. A 0.5 cm layer of sand is poured onto the surface of the earth.

Signs: Plants wither and wither. Damaged root system.
Features of the pest: They live in compost heaps consuming organic residues. When starved of food in a flower pot, insects can feed on plant roots.
Method of control: Use the manual method of collecting centipedes.

Signs: The plant is withering, the root system is damaged.
Features of the pest: Oval-shaped, dark-colored beetles about 2 centimeters long spoil the leaves. Their cream-colored larvae, which live in the soil and eat roots, tubers, and bulbs, are dangerous.
Method of control: As a preventive and therapeutic measure, the soil is watered with a systemic insecticide. 5,00 /5 (votes: 3 )