Pruning garden roses: when and how to prune bushes correctly? Summer pruning of roses

How to prune roses correctly depends on their type. Don't forget to take care of quality instrument for work.

Purposes and time of pruning roses

In gardening, roses are usually called cultivated forms of plants belonging to the rosehip genus of the rose family. With all the variety of types and varieties of roses, there are several general principles for pruning them.

Pruning is one of the most important agricultural activities. Timely pruning of roses is the key to the durability of the bush, its decorative appearance, good and long flowering.

To anyone who is just beginning to master the peculiarities of pruning roses, this process will in many ways seem simply incomprehensible. And the point is not even in the variety of species and varieties that require an individual approach, but in large quantities types of pruning. Nevertheless, we can identify the main tasks of pruning roses, on the basis of which we can determine the methods for doing it.

So, pruning roses has the following goals:

• bush rejuvenation. By removing old shoots, the plant can spend all its energy on producing large, beautiful buds;
• giving the bush the most decorative appearance. By cutting off excess and unproductive shoots, you can give the bush the desired shape;
• lush and long flowering. Buds form only on strong young shoots;
• Creation optimal conditions for wintering plants;
• reducing the risk of developing fungal diseases. The fact is that good ventilation, provided by removing excess branches inside the bush, prevents the occurrence of diseases;
• obtaining excellent specimens for cutting.

The basic rules for pruning roses are as follows:

• pruning is carried out to healthy wood;
• pruning is carried out on a bud located on the outside of the shoot;
• if after pruning 2–3 shoots develop from one bud, then only one should be left and the rest removed;
• it is necessary to remove all diseased, thin, dead, weak, intersecting shoots to healthy wood or to the soil level;
• You should leave enough shoots to ensure normal air exchange and good illumination of the bush, this helps prevent the development of fungal diseases.

Pruning roses is a simple operation, but it requires knowledge.

The shoots are cut with sharp pruning shears 5-6 mm above the developed bud and at an angle of 45°. The cut surface should be smooth, without cracks or burrs. It must be covered with garden varnish.

In the first summer after planting Special attention pay attention to the formation of bushes. At this time, when pruning roses, all small shoots growing inward, thickening them, as well as those growing from the grafting site or root collar (for self-rooted ones) are cut into a ring, and strongly growing shoots are pinched. In July, formative pruning is completed so as not to cause the growth of new shoots, which, before they have time to ripen, freeze slightly and often cause roses to become damaged by diseases. In grafted roses, wild growth is systematically cut down to the ground, which is especially abundant in the first summer, and becomes smaller with age. In order not to weaken the plants, you can remove the emerging buds.

In subsequent years, summer pruning consists of shortening individual shoots that are growing too vigorously, especially in large-flowered rose bushes and standard rose crowns. However, the most important task of summer pruning is to encourage the plant to bloom again. In order for a bush to produce the maximum number of flowers that a particular variety is capable of producing, it requires proper summer pruning. You cannot simply remove a faded rose flower by simply pinching it, i.e. I tore off one flower and that’s it - this is a big mistake, because a new shoot with a flower will appear very high. It will be elongated, thin and will bend easily, i.e. bend. It is necessary to remove the flower before the petals completely fall off, i.e. as soon as appearance has lost its attractiveness. You need to cut the flower lower, then the new shoot in this place will be strong and hold tightly (when cutting a flower, leave a stump 6-8 mm above the eye). Probably, the debate between gardeners about the need for pruning will never stop, because some consider it a panacea for all ills, while others perceive it as an act of vandalism against the very nature of the tree. Nevertheless, many years of experience shows that pruning is necessary in many cases, promoting more active growth and abundant flowering and fruiting, helping in the prevention and treatment of diseases and eliminating pests, and in addition, it prolongs life garden plants, allowing them to delight us with their fragrant fruits or beautiful flowers much longer.

At the same time, you should not start pruning plants thoughtlessly, because each species or even variety requires an individual approach: some need a minimum of intervention, while others are unable to produce a bountiful harvest without heavy pruning in the spring.

However, remember: Even if you follow the rules for pruning roses and carry out this procedure in a timely manner, without proper care for the plant it will still not bloom as it should. Therefore, take care of your garden, take care of your crops, and they will definitely thank you with lush flowers and delicious fruits.

Pruning roses to form a bush

The bush is formed in the first summer after planting. Small shoots growing inward and shoots coming from the root collar or grafting site are cut into a ring. Shoots that are too long or growing rapidly are pinched. In June, the formation of the bush when pruning roses is completed. Otherwise, the rose will produce new shoots that will not have time to ripen before winter.

Removing wild growth. Most often, roses are propagated by grafting: a varietal form of rose is grafted onto a wild rootstock. Later, wild shoots grow from the grafting site. Their leaves are smaller, the stems are lighter, and they have more thorns. Wild growth consumes some of the nutrients intended for cultivated plant. Therefore, such shoots must be disposed of immediately, not allowing them to grow. Wild shoots are cut out in May. The soil is raked away from the root collar of the bush to expose the place where the shoot grows. The sprout is cut at the base with sharp scissors or a knife. A little bark is removed along with the shoot. Cutting off wild shoots near the soil surface is useless. Moreover, this will only enhance their growth.

Pruning is divided into spring, summer and autumn.

Pruning rose bushes in spring (with video)

After pruning, roses are sprayed with a solution copper sulfate at the rate of 100 g per 1 liter of water, then spud the bushes and cover them with film or lutrasil to create shade.

If spring night frosts are no longer expected, then the cover is removed from the roses and unplanted.

Spring pruning is the main one, since the formation of the rose bush and its subsequent development are directly dependent on it. Each year, the pruning time may be different due to the instability of weather conditions in central Russia. But in any case, it must be carried out on time. If the rose was pruned too early, then during the first warm days the buds will begin to swell and grow, but with repeated frosts, which also often happens in the middle zone, they die; if pruning is done too late, the bush will spend too much energy on the formation of new shoots, which will subsequently be removed.

Pruning rose bushes in the spring is carried out immediately after removing the cover and unhilling the bush. Roses are pruned in spring in March - April. It is advisable to wait until the kidneys awaken. Then it will be clear which stems are damaged by frost and which survived the winter normally.

The rose is pruned, thereby creating conditions for the beginning of the formation of a bush, which is characteristic of this garden group, and to the maximum lush flowering.

The stems are shortened to a height of 20–25 cm. The exception is climbing and park species: only old shoots are cut off from them.

Rose growth buds are located in the axils of the leaves. The cut is made as close to the kidney as possible, but so as not to damage it. The cut is made with sharp pruning shears at an angle of 45° with an inclination from the bud and at a distance no higher than 0.5 cm from it. The bud should be on the outside of the branch.

The shoot is trimmed to healthy tissue. It is easy to determine the condition of the branch: if the core is dark and browned, it means the tissues are damaged. The healthy core of the branch is white or greenish-white.

Sometimes several shoots develop from strong buds at once. Of these, only one shoot is left, and all the rest are removed as soon as possible.

All varieties of roses require regular sanitary pruning. Broken, dry, diseased and damaged branches, as well as thin and weak growths, are cut to the soil level or to a healthy shoot.

To make caring for your rose easier, before planting the bush you need to check if there are any wild shoots on it. Detected sprouts are cut off sharp knife or with scissors at the base, grabbing a little bark.

Intersecting branches are cut so that one of them is below the intersection point.

The rose bush should not be thickened. Enough shoots are left on it to ensure normal air exchange and sufficient illumination.

After pruning young roses, the soil under them is mulched with well-rotted manure or compost.

The video “Pruning rose bushes in spring” shows how this procedure is performed:

Proper pruning of roses in summer

To maintain the decorative appearance of roses, sanitary pruning is carried out during the summer. Summer (sanitary) pruning is carried out during the period from the beginning of the first flowering until autumn. At the same time, flowers that have lost their attractive appearance are removed. There is no need to wait until all the petals have completely fallen off: this increases the risk of disease.

As you can see in the photo, when pruning roses in summer, the flowers are cut off as soon as the petals begin to fade:

Thus, they ensure re-blooming, cut off diseased, yellowed foliage and sluggish shoots.

Proper pruning of roses in summer allows for continuous flowering and also prevents the consumption of nutrients for seed formation. The cut is made on the 1st strong bud. If you simply cut off a flower with a peduncle, buds will awaken on the remaining weak part of the stem. Stunted thin shoots will grow from them.

At the end of summer, the inflorescences stop being removed. Otherwise, shoots will continue to actively form on the bush. They will not have time to ripen by winter and will die from frost.

In order to prevent the development of diseases and pests, shoots that are too thick and growing inside the bush are removed.

The only exception is the small-flowered climbing rose of the Rambler subgroup, which blooms once a year, which is pruned immediately after flowering so that replacement shoots appear that can bloom in a year.

Watch the video of pruning roses in summer to better understand how this agricultural technique is performed:

Rules for pruning roses in autumn (with video)

Autumn pruning of roses is carried out in November. In order not to cause intensive shoot growth, pruning should be minimal. Usually limited to removing flowers and fruits damaged by frost. According to the rules for pruning roses in the fall, shoots of standard plants are cut off by 1/3, then the crops are covered for the winter. In areas with strong winds, it is advisable to trim stems that are too long by 15–30 cm so that the wind does not swing and damage them.

Autumn pruning is largely associated with the process of preparing the rose for the winter period and providing shelter. Before covering the plant for the winter, after negative daytime temperatures have established, it is recommended to remove all flowers, foliage, immature, defective, diseased and broken shoots. Pruning of the main shoots is carried out in accordance with the garden group of roses. All cut parts are removed from the area and burned, as they can become a source of infection.

Here you can watch a video of pruning roses in the fall to prepare plants for winter:

Pruning species and miniature roses

Pruning species (wild) and ancient roses. The species rose grows over time into a dense, strong bush. Most of these roses do not actually need pruning, and it is recommended not to touch them for about 4 years so that the bush can build a strong base.

Long (light) pruning is necessary if the bush grows too much, if it comes into contact with neighboring bushes and damages its shoots, if some branches have begun to die. First of all, the oldest shoots, at least 4 years old, located close to the ground, need pruning in order to stimulate young growth that produces abundant flowering. The surviving shoots remontant varieties it is necessary to shorten it by about a third (Fig. 60); shoots of once-flowering plants cannot be pruned at all, since the flower bud is mainly formed at the top of the bush.

Pruning patio and miniature roses. The patio rose, as well as the true miniature rose, is a smaller version of the common large-flowered and multi-flowered rose.

When planting a miniature rose, only the top and deformed shoots are cut off. In subsequent seasons, it is pruned in the same way as a hybrid tea.

Pruning ground cover and climbing roses

Pruning ground cover roses. In the spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, and the ends of the shoots are cut into 2–3 buds.

The ground cover rose does not need autumn pruning; only diseased, damaged, unripe branches are cut out, as well as shoots and branches that have lost their decorative value, and all the foliage remaining on the bush. Once every 5–6 years, for the purpose of rejuvenation, the bush is pruned short, by 5–7 buds.

Climbing roses. In roses that bloom several times during the summer, flowers appear on both old and annual shoots. The wilted inflorescences of the plants are also removed, and the side shoots are cut off by 2–4 eyes. Rejuvenating and thinning pruning is carried out as necessary.

Roses that bloom once a summer produce flowers on perennial shoots. Such plants require regular anti-aging pruning and thinning. Climbing roses are pruned immediately after flowering, so that the young shoots have time to ripen before the onset of frost.

In varieties with decorative fruits, faded flowers are not cut off.

Wild roses. They practically do not require pruning, with the exception of sanitary ones. If wild roses are grown as bush roses, pruning should be done accordingly.

Cascading roses. They only need thinning.

Pruning bush, flowerbed and remontant roses

Shrub roses. Varieties that bloom once are not pruned, but only thinned. Pruning impairs their flowering.

Constantly flowering varieties are pruned. Strong shoots are shortened only slightly, weak shoots are cut into 3-4 buds. Every 3–5 years the bush is thinned out and anti-aging pruning is carried out. When pruning bush roses, branches growing inside the bush are removed. Old unproductive shoots are cut off close to the ground.

Flowerbed roses. Weakly growing varieties are pruned by 3–4 buds (10–15 cm) to obtain strong stems.

Medium-growing varieties are pruned by 4–6 buds (15–25 cm).

Strongly growing varieties are pruned into 8 buds. To rejuvenate the bush, pruning is carried out in the same way as pruning weakly growing varieties.

Repair roses. Roses of these varieties are pruned to stimulate the formation of strong basal shoots. Another goal is to form a spherical bush. Its center should be open, and the peripheral stems should be evenly spaced.

Flowers of such roses appear on the current year's growth. Therefore, they need annual moderate or heavy pruning. Thick stems are cut to 4–6 buds (about 20 cm from the ground). The remaining stems are shortened to 2–4 buds (about 15 cm from the ground). In an adult plant, 2–3 stems are completely removed annually to rejuvenate the bush.

Correct pruning of standard roses

Pruning of standard roses is carried out similarly to that of bush roses, forming a symmetrical crown shape. Shoots that thicken the crown are especially carefully pruned, since many shoots do not contribute to an abundance of flowering.

For standard roses, depending on the garden groups, heavy or light pruning is used. Heavy pruning is used for crowns of hybrid tea, floribunda, gran diflora, polyanthus and miniature roses, and light – for climbing and ground cover roses.

Pruning of climbing trunks is carried out by strongly cleaning the crown. Leave several young strong branches, pruning them to a powerful outer bud.

Their crown should be compact. Drooping varieties are thinned out. The rest are trimmed moderately.

In the spring, after planting, the crown of the trunk is cut short at a distance of 10–15 cm from the base of the bush. In subsequent seasons, pruning will depend on the growth potential of the grafted rose, its group and the general condition of the plant after overwintering. If the rose has survived this period well, it is pruned, leaving 2-3 more buds than the same varieties of bush roses. If the plant did not survive the winter well, it is cut shorter, by 5–7 buds.

In summer, hybrid tea, floribunda and miniature roses grafted onto a standard form a symmetrical crown by pinching the shoots into 2-3 buds.

Pruning hybrid tea and polyantha roses

Hybrid tea rose as a result of mandatory spring pruning develops flower shoots that will bloom the same year. In the year of planting, the plant is pruned short, by 2–3 buds.

Subsequently, when pruning hybrid tea roses, be sure to take into account the varietal specifics:

• a vigorous variety requires long (light) pruning for the reason that short pruning often leads to the appearance of blind (non-flowering) shoots. With it, 5–7 buds are left on the shoot;
• When pruning other varieties, medium (moderate) pruning is used. Each one-year shoot is pruned to 3–5 buds; for a strong mature 2–4 year old shoot, 2–3 buds are left depending on the intensity of growth.

A properly formed bush has a maximum of 5 strong shoots, all the rest are removed. The most valuable is the young shoot growing from the base of the bush. It should be carefully preserved, as it helps rejuvenate the bush. During the formation of the shoot, a young root begins to sprout. The root system is growing. If such a shoot is removed, a root will not be able to form. Autumn pruning is carried out at a height of 20–30 cm from the base of the bush, leaving 5–7 buds.

Seedlings with two or more shoots are pruned in the spring immediately after planting, keeping 2-3 buds; weak shoots are cut off more strongly. Thanks to this, flowers will appear in the first year. I also shorten the roots to approximately 30 cm (if they were cut at the nursery, just refresh the cuts). If a rose is planted in the fall, then the roots are shortened to the same extent, and the shoots are shortened slightly.

Further pruning is related to the varietal of the flowers. Thus, varieties characterized by active growth are pruned lightly, since otherwise you can get “blind” shoots, that is, shoots that do not produce flowers. Other varieties respond well to moderate pruning.

The most valuable are the shoots that emerge from the root zone, as they contribute to the rejuvenation of the bush and increase the mass of the root system. If you cut them off, a new root will not develop.

To obtain high-quality cutting material, hybrid tea roses are pruned by 2–3 buds.

Polyantha roses. When planting polyanthus roses, all weak shoots are cut off, and strong shoots are shortened by approximately 4 buds. Varieties characterized by short height and weak growth are subjected to heavy pruning in the spring, since thanks to this they produce a lot of shoots that bloom in the same summer.

Actively growing varieties for early flowering are lightly pruned in the year of planting. Next spring weak shoots are cut off, strong shoots are shortened to a third of their length, and the growth on them is 3 buds. Further care involves cutting out all old, weak shoots that thicken the crown, and trimming strong shoots by a third of their length.

Proper pruning of floribunda roses

In the first season after planting, floribunda roses are heavily pruned to 3–4 buds. Subsequently, the most optimal pruning for floribunda roses is mixed spring pruning, during which:

• some shoots are lightly pruned to provoke early flowering of others, by 5–7 buds;
• other shoots are severely pruned in order to stimulate the process of growth of renewed basal shoots and to obtain late flowering, by 2–3 buds.

A correctly formed bush has no more than five strong shoots; all others must be removed. It is important to perform autumn pruning to a height of 30–35 cm from the base of the bush.

Weak pruning does not allow preserving the decorative appearance of the plant, although it promotes early flowering; severe pruning depletes the bush, causing the buds to set in more late dates, and moderate does not provide constant flowering. Therefore, they resort to combined pruning, in which some of the shoots are pruned strongly and others weakly. This will allow the bush to maintain its shape and bloom earlier.

At further care Be sure to cut out all shoots directed deep into the bush, cut off one-year-old shoots by a third, cut off lateral growth on shoots of the second year of life, remove old shoots if young growth is sufficient.

Correct pruning of a climbing rose (with video)

Subgroup rambler (true climber, small-flowered climber). This group includes roses with long (up to 3–4 m) elastic shoots and miniature flowers in voluminous inflorescences. They bloom in June - early July, once, for 30-35 days along the entire length of the shoot that survived the winter.

Next spring for correct pruning Climbing roses can be slightly shortened at the tops of the shoots, but the main pruning occurs after the buds have faded. During the process, all faded shoots are completely removed. If this was not done in the summer, they need to be cut out in the spring. With proper and complete care, new shoots will form on the bush, which will bloom this year.

As shown in the trimming video climbing roses, in the first year after planting, the bush is pruned by 35–40 cm, due to which a huge number of basal shoots are formed:

There is no flowering in the first year. In all subsequent years, pruning is performed in the same way. In spring, it is recommended to perform only sanitary pruning.

The main pruning of this species is done immediately after flowering, in the summer. Roses of this group bloom on last year's shoots, so those that have bloomed are cut off at the base of the bush into a ring. At the same time, many replacement shoots are formed, but only 5-10 of them will be needed to form a bush, the rest must be removed.

Look at the photo - when pruning climbing roses in the fall, only the very top with underdeveloped buds is removed and then sanitary molding is carried out:

This is done for the reason that the climbing rose blooms on last year’s shoot, which must be preserved.

Rules for pruning park roses

Roses of this type require annual formative and sanitary pruning. Light pruning of park roses activates the appearance of new shoots, which contribute to the rejuvenation of the bush and the appearance of abundant, long-lasting flowering. Thanks to the development of basal shoots, the mass of roots also increases, which has a positive effect on the life of the entire plant.

In the first two years, it is necessary to create a strong skeleton of the bush, for which all weak shoots, faded flowers, etc. are cut out. In autumn, young shoots are pruned by 5 cm, which will make it easier for them to cope with the winter.

Types of park roses that bloom once in the middle of the season are pruned in the spring, removing up to a third of the length of the basal shoots, since due to abundant flowering branches often break off under their own weight. In autumn, strongly grown shoots are also pruned so that they do not break during strong winds or heavy snowfall.

Pruning other types of roses

Subgroup of climbers (climbing, climbing large-flowered rose). Flowers of this group reach 2–3 m in height, they have large flowers, collected in small inflorescences. It blooms profusely and for a long time, some varieties bloom repeatedly.

The flower is formed on shoots of the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th order, i.e. it blooms for 4 or more years. At the same time, flowering becomes weaker year after year, therefore, when growing roses of this group, it is necessary to leave 2-4 year old shoots.

In the spring, sanitary pruning is carried out. If possible, some lashes are formed horizontally or at an angle (this technique helps to avoid exposing the bottom of the bush).

During the summer, after removing flowers that have lost their decorative value, the shoot is shortened by 3-4 buds, which stimulates re-blooming.

During autumn, only the top of the shoot is shortened, and rejuvenating pruning is carried out on the old bush. It is forbidden to prune all shoots: low pruning promotes a return to the bush form, since most of the varieties of this group are one of the climbing varieties of bush roses, and the plant may also stop blooming.

Semi-climbing and bush roses. Before planting, the tips of the shoots and roots are shortened, and non-viable growth is removed. The next year, in the spring, weak shoots are completely cut out, and strong shoots are reduced by a third of their length.

Pruning shrub roses, scrub roses and English roses. This rose can only bloom on a two-year-old or more mature shoot. In the spring, it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning and make the shoots shorter by 3-4 buds, as well as remove the clusters with the fruits of the previous season, so that the bush can bloom earlier.

In the fall, you should also remove all thickened, old, sluggish, deformed, diseased shoots at the base of the bush into a ring so that they cannot grow back. After pruning, 3–7 stems will remain, half of which need to be shortened by 2 times. Side shoots from all remaining stems must be removed, and the crowns must be cut off into 3–5 buds. The end result will be a bush with shoots of varying lengths.

During the spring period it should grow and continue its flowering from spring to autumn. The park rose is rejuvenated by severe pruning to the base of the bush, and 3–4 buds are preserved to stimulate the growth of “dormant buds.”

Rose pruning tools

Many gardeners don't like to prune roses because they have to deal with thorny stems. However, if pruning is carried out correctly, the development of the plant will improve, it will bloom more abundantly and more beautifully. In young seedlings, pruning improves the formation of the root system, which begins to develop faster.

Also, thanks to pruning, young shoots appear and vegetate more actively. Removing dry and old parts of the bushes allows for proper distribution nutrients by plant. Pruning also promotes the flow to all parts of the bush. fresh air, which helps prevent the development of diseases, in particular black rot.

This operation requires a lot of time, in addition, it requires some practice and special tools.

To prune roses, you first need to equip yourself with pruning shears and gloves that will help avoid injury to your hands. In order to get to hard-to-reach stems, as well as to get rid of faded buds from climbing roses, use a lopper with long handles.

All tools must be kept clean and thoroughly washed and dried after each trimming. It is also recommended to wash your tools after pruning each individual bush: in this case, you can prevent the spread of the disease if one of them is infected.

How to properly prune roses in spring, summer and autumn?

Before starting the operation, you need to assess the condition of the bush and decide which pruning method to choose, because the latter depends on the type of rose and the purposes for which this manipulation is carried out. Thus, autumn pruning is carried out more harshly, as a result of which the bush can be shortened to 40 cm in height. Spring pruning is carried out to ensure the penetration of fresh air and sun rays to stems and leaves.

It is recommended to make cuts at an angle of 45°, and they should be neat, without torn or chewed edges. When pruning, dry, broken and damaged parts of the bushes, as well as thin and weak shoots, should be removed. If seedlings have whitened and thin sprouts after storage, they also need to be cut off, otherwise the plant will die. On grafted roses, it is necessary to cut off the growth that appears below the rootstock, since otherwise the cultivated part of the plant may die.

After pruning, the cut area should be treated with an antiseptic, which will help prevent possible infection. It is permissible to use a solution of brilliant green as such an antiseptic.

Seven types of rose pruning

There are seven types of pruning roses, which depend on the time they are carried out and the type of crop.

1. Basic (formative) pruning. Conducted in the spring. Pursues the following goals: stimulation of the growth of new shoots from renewal buds; adjustment of flowering duration; guarantee of abundant and lush flowering throughout the entire growing season of the plant; maintaining the shape of the bush, which is characteristic of a garden rose. This pruning is carried out taking into account the biological characteristics of the group and variety of rose.

2. Sanitary pruning. They are carried out with the aim of forming a healthy, strong bush with lush and long-lasting flowering, as well as to prevent the occurrence of diseases and pests. This type of pruning is performed as needed throughout the entire growing season (in spring, summer and autumn), it is unchanged for all groups. It involves the following stages: removing old flowers that have lost their attractiveness and decorativeness, thereby ensuring their subsequent flowering; pruning diseased yellowed foliage in order to prevent further development of diseases and pests; pruning shoots that interfere with each other; removing shoots that thicken the crown and grow inside the bush, thereby providing excessive ventilation and access to direct sunlight to all foliage and buds; spring pruning of all frozen, dry, browned, diseased shoots to a healthy place, autumn pruning of immature and weak shoots; if the rose is grafted, remove the shoots at the very base.

3. Anti-aging pruning. They are carried out in order to rejuvenate the bush, as well as to stimulate the growth of young, abundantly flowering growth and to form replacement shoots, which will subsequently become the skeleton of the bush. It applies to all types of roses if the plant has slowed down its growth rate, began to bloom less abundantly, or has become bare at the bottom. Pruning is carried out on shoots older than 4 years, so that strong young shoots are formed. During the procedure, old coarsened shoots are removed completely in the spring or immediately after flowering (species, ancient and park roses), or cut into 3-4 buds from the bottom of the bush and removed immediately after the formation of replacement shoots begins.

4. Long trim. When using long pruning, it is customary to leave at least two-thirds of the stem; in other words, the shoots that remain after lightening the bush are lightly shortened. This method widely used for pruning species, ancient, park and English roses, as well as vigorous varieties of the hybrid tea group. If it is necessary to cause earlier flowering of individual shoots, light pruning is also applied among other groups. With regular use of long pruning, the bush becomes very elongated and blooms poorly, although it blooms earlier than it should. For this reason, you cannot limit yourself to only light pruning for several years in a row.

Long pruning is used when planting seedlings and after cleaning the winter shelter. Suitable for hybrid tea and park roses.

5. Moderate pruning. Moderate means pruning at approximately half the height, leaving shoots at the level of the 4th-5th bud from the base of the bush. The weakened shoot is cut short or removed completely. Moderate pruning is used for any group of roses, with the exception of climbing, species, ancient, English and park roses. In addition, using medium pruning, a bush is formed.

6. Short trim. When performing short pruning, the shoot is cut off at the level of the first three buds from the base of the bush, leaving a shoot 15–20 cm high.

It is used during spring pruning of patio roses, mature bushes of hybrid tea roses, miniature roses, as well as climbing roses of the Rambler subgroup in the year after planting and as a rejuvenating pruning method for all other groups of roses.

Short pruning is carried out during spring planting of seedlings. It is suitable for climbing roses if you need to stimulate the growth of new shoots so that they bloom the next year.

7. Combined pruning Use, if necessary, to form bushes of certain varieties of roses (primarily the floribunda species). Thanks to this type of pruning, the bush looks more graceful during the flowering period.

Regular pruning garden roses necessary for their good growth and abundant flowering.

For different types roses have their own pruning methods, since roses belonging to different groups differ greatly from each other. Pruning requires certain gardening Tools, which must be in good condition and well sharpened. These include: pruning shears, pruning knife, pruning saw and side pruning shears.

The buds of roses are located in the axils of the leaves. The upper buds germinate faster than the lower ones. The lowest buds, the so-called “dormant” buds, germinate later than the others. If you prune on a bud that has not yet formed, this will delay the flowering period of the bush. It is better to prune to buds located outside, thereby providing access to sunlight to the flowers and leaves. When more than one shoot forms in the leaf axil, it is necessary to leave one, removing the others.

To make a cut, you need a well-sharpened tool; if the tool is dull, you won’t be able to make an even cut; it will be torn, which can simply cause the branch to die. The cut should be made slightly at an angle, at a distance not exceeding 5 mm from the bud. If the distance to the kidney is less, it is easy to damage it, which can cause infection and development. Excessive distance leads to the death of the “stump”.

Correct cut

Incorrect cut

Typically, pruning begins by removing damaged, dead or diseased branches back to a healthy stem or to soil level. Pruning is done to healthy tissue with a white core.

It is necessary to do pruning in order to thin out a very thick bush in order to prevent black spot, rust and powdery mildew, which are often promoted by poor air permeability inside the bush. It is better to burn diseased pruned shoots.

To prevent friction between the stems or friction of the stem against the supports, at the points of their intersection, one of the stems is cut to the intersection point.

To begin with, let’s decide on the timing of pruning for different groups roses

To properly form the bush, it is necessary to pinch the ends of the shoots. Park roses, ground cover roses and climbing roses do not need to be pinched.

Young shoots of planted seedlings are pinched after the fourth leaf. For good bush growth and the formation of symmetrical correct form in the first year after planting, only the buds that appear are cut off, thus stimulating the growth of new shoots. By autumn the plant will be stronger and well developed, this will allow it to withstand winter frosts.

In the last month of summer, you can stop pruning the buds and let the rose bloom.

There are light, moderate, heavy and combined levels of pruning.

Easy pruning – pruning roses at 2/3 of the initial height, approximately at the height of the eighth - twelfth bud from the base. It is also called summer, when faded inflorescences are cut off. Light pruning should be carried out on vigorous bushes of hybrid tea roses and roses growing in unfavorable conditions with heavy air pollution or on sandy soil; it is also the main one for ground cover roses in the first years after planting.

Medium or moderate degree of pruning – trimming roses to ½ of the initial height, approximately the fifth to seventh bud from the base. If there are weak shoots on the bush, then they are pruned more strongly. Medium pruning is the main type of pruning for adult roses of the hybrid tea group. This method allows for high decorativeness and earlier flowering.

Strong degree of pruning - pruning the rose at the level of the 3rd - 4th bud from the base. This type of pruning is used when planting a bush in spring. It is also sometimes used if the hybrid tea rose bush is weak or very thick. For mature floribunda roses, this type of pruning is not recommended.

But most often used in gardening combined pruning. By applying different degrees of pruning, you can observe almost continuous abundant flowering of the rose. This type of pruning is especially suitable for the floribunda group.

Depending on the period of pruning, the following types are distinguished: spring, summer and autumn.

Spring pruning– the main one, it is carried out annually in the spring, as soon as the swollen buds appear. The degree of pruning depends on the condition, variety and group of the plant. Sanitary pruning is also carried out when damaged and diseased branches are removed after winter.

Summer pruning held for roses with repeated flowering, when faded inflorescences are removed up to the first developed bud facing outward above the 2nd or 3rd leaf. This pruning prolongs flowering and stimulates the development of new shoots. It can be used to thin out a very thick bush. If there are shoots that do not have buds or the buds on them are underdeveloped, they must be cut off by 1/2. This will allow one or more strong flowering shoots to develop.

Pinching the shoots at the very beginning of the formation of buds moves the flowering period forward by 20 days, thereby stimulating the development of new shoots.

Starting from late summer and autumn, faded flowers are not cut off so as not to stimulate the formation of new shoots.

Autumn pruning – carried out in the fall before cold weather, in order to shelter and protect roses in winter period. It consists in removing undeveloped weak shoots, buds, flowers, foliage, and achieving optimal height for appropriate shelter. Climbing roses and straight-growing roses cannot be heavily pruned for winter; they are bent to the ground and covered.

Often, wild shoots appear from the roots or the grafting site, which are shoots different from the grafted one; its foliage is small, like that of a wild rose. She grows and multiplies quickly. It must be removed immediately, because the growth weakens the bush and leads to its “wildness.”

The shoots of the shoots are removed from the very base, so if it forms from the root, the ground must be cleared to the place of its formation. It is necessary to constantly monitor the formation of new shoots.

The reason for the formation of overgrowth is often poorly compacted soil or damage to the roots during weeding, as well as improper removal of overgrowth shoots (from the ground), which only contributes to the formation of new ones.

Removing root shoots from grafted roses: 1 – improper removal of shoots, promoting the formation of new shoots; 2- proper removal of root shoots

In roses grafted onto a trunk, wild growth can form on the trunk itself below the grafting site from dormant buds; it must also be removed immediately.

Removing wild shoots from standard roses

Large bush roses suffer from the appearance of wild growth much less often than grafted roses, especially polyanthus and miniature ones.

The purpose of pruning this group of roses is the formation of strong shoots, the formation of the correct spherical bush.

In the spring, before planting a hybrid tea rose, the seedlings are heavily pruned, up to 15 cm above the soil level (the second to fourth bud), this promotes the formation of new basal shoots, and in the fall, medium pruning is carried out. If the rose is planted in poor, sandy soil, then before planting it is not necessary to prune the rose heavily; moderate pruning is enough (at the level of the fourth to sixth buds, 20 cm), and the next year you can do more severe pruning.

Roses of this group bloom on the current year's shoots, so they undergo moderate, moderate pruning every year to stimulate the formation of new young shoots. If a variety of hybrid tea rose forms a powerful bush, with tall stems more than 1.2 m, then heavy pruning is not recommended; this often results in the formation of non-flowering shoots, and light pruning, which reduces the formation of buds, also has a bad effect. It happens that the bottom of a rose bush becomes bare, and flowering occurs only at the top of the shoots; in this case, younger shoots are pruned less than older ones, some of which are cut off to the very base to allow new ones to develop. Often, combined pruning is used to avoid such problems. Every year, during pruning, it is necessary to remove 2-3 of the oldest stems to rejuvenate the bush.

First year

Before planting a seedling in the fall, prune the main stems (at the level of the fourth to sixth buds), damaged and too long roots.

Second year

1. In the spring in March, each stem is pruned at the level of the second or third bud.
2. In summer, new shoots form on the bush.
3. At the beginning of autumn, flowering stems are shortened, non-woody and non-flowering stems are removed.

Third year and subsequent

1. In March, pruning of diseased, weak, dead, overlapping stems and stems growing inside the bush is carried out.
2. The remaining shoots are pruned: strong ones at the level of the fourth - fifth bud (up to 20 cm), the rest at the level of the second - third (up to 15 cm).

6. At the end of September - beginning of October, when the growing season comes to an end, flowering stems and non-woody non-flowering stems are cut off.

Roses of this group differ from hybrid tea roses in their stronger developed bush and small flowers, which are collected in inflorescences. Often the use of strong pruning harms them, and weak pruning stimulates the growth of a bush with thin shoots.

If roses of this group are planted in areas susceptible to strong winds, then it is best to use moderate average pruning, at the level of the sixth to eighth buds (30-45 cm). Unfortunately, this type of pruning sometimes leads to the death of old shoots, without the appearance of new root shoots, and also does not ensure continuous flowering.

Therefore, for these roses it is often used combined view pruning, when some shoots are pruned heavily to enhance basal growth, while others are pruned lightly for earlier flowering.

First year

Before planting, the rose seedling needs to be slightly trimmed to a height of about 15-20 cm (third to fifth bud), and the roots are too long and damaged.

Second year

1. In the spring of next year, you need to cut the stems at the level of the third or fourth bud and remove weak shoots.
2. The formation of new shoots will begin in April.
3. In the fall, in October, strong growth of the tops of the first year is observed. During this period, non-flowering non-woody shoots are pruned and the main ones are pinched.

Third year

1. In the third year, at the beginning of spring, diseased, weak, dead branches and branches that intersect and thicken the bush are removed. Then rejuvenating pruning is carried out as follows: old stems are shortened to a length of about 15-20 cm from the base (by three to five buds), annual basal stems by 1/3, lateral stems remaining by 10-15 cm (by two to three buds).
2. In October, non-woody, non-flowering shoots are pruned and the main ones are pinched.

Fourth year and subsequent

1. In the spring, pruning of diseased, weak, dead stems that cross and thicken the bush is carried out.
2. Also during this period, rejuvenating pruning is carried out as follows: old stems are shortened to a length of about 15-20 cm from the base (by three to five buds), annual basal ones by 1/3, lateral stems remaining to 10-15 cm (by two to three kidneys).

Polyantha roses are small branched shrubs up to 50-80cm high. Flowers are formed on the shoots of the current and previous year.

First year

1. After planting, the strongest stems are lightly pruned by 1/3, thin and weak ones are removed into a “ring”. For vigorous varieties, it is preferable to do light pruning for early flowering.
2. New growth will bloom in late summer. To extend the flowering period, it is necessary to regularly remove faded flowers.

Second year

In the spring, it is necessary to remove weak, diseased and dead branches; pruning of old branches that thicken the center of the bush. Strong stems are cut by 1/3 to maintain the leaderless shape of the bush and prolong flowering.

Third year and subsequent

In the spring, cut off strong shoots by 1/3, branched stems, remove weak, diseased, old and dead branches, as well as branches that thicken the center of the bush.

Miniature roses are low-growing shrubs with a height of 30 cm to 60 cm, so they do not need much pruning, but there are times when several strong shoots are formed that spoil the appearance of the bush, making it asymmetrical. If such shoots appear regularly, it is necessary to prune them as for floribunda roses.

First year

Before planting, cut the stems of miniature roses to a height of 10-15 cm (third to fifth bud), cut long, damaged roots, and remove weak shoots.

Second year

In summer, buds appear on branched shoots, and strong, strong stems grow from the very base.

Third year and subsequent

At the beginning of spring, the branches are shortened to 10-15 cm (by three to four buds); damaged or weak stems must be removed.

To form beautiful bush Climbing roses need to be pruned, which will stimulate more abundant flowering. Pruning is especially necessary to create a thick covering of a wall or other vertical object.

If a climbing rose is formed horizontally, then the rose blooms more abundantly and more magnificently, since many flowering shoots are formed. In addition, this makes it easier to care for. With vertical formation, flowering shoots are formed closer to the top, so they are less numerous, which is why flowering is not as abundant.

Pruning climbing roses can be divided into 4 groups, depending on the nature of growth and formation of shoots.

The first group includes roses that bloom from June to July on the shoots of last year’s basal stems (variety Dorothy Perkins, Excelsa, etc.).

First year

Before planting, too long and damaged roots and stems of a climbing rose seedling are cut to a height of 30 cm in order to stimulate active shoot formation, but this will delay flowering until next year.

Second year and subsequent

1. On the horizontal shoots of the previous year, buds begin to set abundantly. Growing new ones also continue to form horizontally.
2. In September, faded shoots are cut off, except for 2 or 3 last year to form a skeleton. Then the side shoots located on them are cut to 10 cm (by two or three buds).

1. The final appearance of a climbing rose at the end of the second and subsequent years.

The second group of roses is identical to the first, the difference lies in the small number of basal shoots that grew during the year, due to the formation of a larger number of shoots in the upper part of the old branches.

First year

Before planting, climbing rose seedlings are trimmed with too long and damaged roots and stems to a height of 30 cm in order to stimulate active shoot formation, but will delay flowering until next year.

1. In spring, young shoots begin to form.
2. New shoots are given a horizontal shape.

Second year

1. In spring there is active growth new shoots.
2. Flowering will begin in the summer on shoots grown on last year's growths. Basal shoots will also begin to grow, which will later become “conductors”.

1. Starting from the end of summer, the branches of the previous year are pruned into “conductors”. Faded side shoots and weak, damaged ones are pruned to a height of 15 cm (by two to three buds). It is advisable to form new “conductors” horizontally.

Third year and subsequent

1. The rose bush blooms on horizontally formed stems from last year and shortened shoots. Basal and replacement shoots begin to grow.

1. From the end of summer, the stems from last year are removed for “conductors”. Faded side shoots and weak, damaged ones are pruned to a height of 15 cm (by two to three buds). It is advisable to form new “conductors” horizontally, and cut 1-2 last year’s stems to a height of 30-40 cm, for the further formation of new basal shoots.

Roses of this group are distinguished by flowering on the shoots of the current year; their branches are very flexible, which allows them to be used for pergolas, arches, landscaping vertical walls, fences and gazebos. The main skeleton is formed from long flexible stems. It is better to give the shape horizontal, sometimes at a slight angle, in order to Bottom part The bush was not exposed much, especially at the initial stage of formation.

First year

Before planting, rose seedlings are cut off with too long, damaged roots. Then it is necessary to shorten the lateral and weak shoots; developed strong stems are secured to a support. It is not recommended to heavily prune the rose, as it promotes the formation of a more bushy form.

In summer, new basal stems that appear are also tied up. Regularly remove faded flowers and weak shoots.

Second year

1. New growing skeletal stems are tied up. Flowering will occur at the tops of root shoots and on the lateral growths of branches.
2. By mid-autumn, faded shoots are cut to a height of 15 cm (by two to four buds). The weak and sick are removed. New growths continue to be tied up.

Third year and subsequent

1. In the summer, they continue to tie up new stems that have appeared, and periodically remove faded flowers.

1. By mid-autumn, faded shoots are cut to a height of 15 cm (by two to four buds). The weak and sick are removed. If there are old, depleted branches, they are also removed in order to develop new basal stems. New growths continue to be tied up.

Roses of the fourth group are pyramidal. Flowers appear on this year's shoots. The growth pattern is more moderate, the stems are less flexible, therefore they grow more vertically, their length does not exceed 3 m. They are well suited for vertical gardening.

First year

1. Before planting, the climbing rose seedling is pruned, too long and damaged roots and weak shoots are removed.

2. Existing long stems are tied to a support.

3. The rose will bloom on the shoots of old branches from last year. Periodically it is necessary to remove faded flowers. New shoots begin to appear.

4. In the autumn, pruning is carried out, removing faded branches to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds) and weak, diseased shoots. To give the bush symmetry, it is sometimes necessary to remove several developed shoots. They try to continue tying young shoots to the support if possible.

Second year and subsequent

1. In the spring, weak, diseased and damaged shoots are pruned.
2. The rose will bloom on the shoots of old branches from last year. Periodically it is necessary to remove faded flowers. New shoots begin to appear at the base of the bush.
3. In the autumn, pruning is carried out, removing faded branches to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds) and weak, diseased shoots. To give the bush symmetry, it is sometimes necessary to remove several developed shoots. To develop new basal stems, old ones are shortened by 2/3 of their length. They try to continue tying young shoots to the support if possible.

Park roses (cultivated wild roses) are one of the most popular groups of roses for landscaping. They are distinguished by well-developed bushes, early abundant flowering and resistance to frost, due to which they winter without shelter in our country.

They are planted either singly or in groups, to decorate borders, or as a hedge.

This group of roses practically does not need pruning, except when, after several years of abundant flowering, the formation of flowers on the bush gradually decreases.

Shrub roses bloom on shoots of previous years and this year, some once in the summer months, others until late autumn. By the way, this group of roses is characterized by the formation of bright fruits; accordingly, faded inflorescences are recommended to be left on the bush.

Pruning park roses mainly consists of the following recommendations:

During the summer growing season, it is necessary to form a skeleton of strong shoots, which must be correctly positioned and regularly pruning weak or damaged growths.

As the roses fade, faded flowers are removed to stimulate the appearance of new ones, except for roses, which produce attractive bright fruits in the autumn.

At the end of autumn, strong shoots are pinched 5-10 cm to stimulate the formation of new lateral growths in the spring. Besides this type pruning serves as a prevention of diseases such as powdery mildew, since it begins with damage to the upper thin parts of the stem.

According to the method of pruning bush roses, there are 3 groups.

Roses included in this group grow as a strong, dense bush, regularly forming basal shoots. Flowers appear on side shoots of the 1st and 2nd order, growing on old, last year's stems. Pruning of this group is almost minimal. These roses include: wrinkled rose (Riigosa), French rose (Gallica), strongly prickly rose (Spinosissima), musk rose (Moschata) and all their hybrids.

First year

Second year

1. At the beginning of spring, strong shoots are pruned and improperly growing branches are removed.
2. In summer, flowering occurs on shoots growing from last year's old branches, and new basal shoots appear.
3. At the beginning of autumn, faded flowers, weak growths, diseased, old and damaged stems are removed.

Third year and subsequent

4. In the spring, the bush is inspected, if necessary, the branches and shoots are shortened; to stimulate the formation of new basal shoots, 1-2 stems are removed to replace the old weakly flowering ones.

5. In summer, flowering occurs on shoots growing from last year’s old branches, and new basal shoots appear.

6. At the beginning of autumn, faded flowers, weak growths, diseased, old and damaged stems and branches that violate the symmetry and shape of the bush are removed.

Roses of the second group bloom only once, with flowers formed on shoots of the 1st and 2nd order, growing on old stems older than one year. This group includes the following roses: centifolia rose (Centifolia), moss rose (Centifolia miiscosa), white (Alba) and many varieties of Dammas and park roses with a one-time summer flowering.

First year

Before planting, pruning is not performed, only damaged and thick roots, underdeveloped and damaged shoots are removed.

Second year

1. In the spring, long basal stems are pruned by 1/3 (since this group is characterized by the formation of too long stems, which, under the weight of the buds, often lie on the ground and sometimes break), as well as the removal of branches that violate the symmetrical shape of the bush. Shoots located on faded stems are shortened by two to three buds.
2. In summer, new basal shoots appear. Roses bloom on previously pruned shoots growing from old branches. Summer pruning is recommended.
3. In autumn, cut off long stems to prevent them from being damaged by strong winds.

Third year and subsequent

4. At the beginning of spring, long basal stems are pruned by 1/3, shoots on faded branches are cut to a height of 15 cm (by two to three buds) and old weakly flowering and poorly positioned stems that disturb the shape of the bush are removed.

5. In summer, new root shoots appear. Roses bloom on previously pruned shoots growing from old branches. Summer pruning is recommended.

6. In autumn, cut off long stems to prevent them from being damaged by strong winds.

Roses of the third group are similar to the previous one, only the bush is shorter. This group includes many varieties of park roses (similar to varieties: Zephirine Drouin, Fontaine, Madame Isaac Pereire), Moyesi roses and tea roses, low varieties of remontant roses.

Unlike the previous group, these roses bloom repeatedly, flowering occurs on shoots of the 1st and 2nd order in the summer on stems older than one year, and in the fall on the shoots of the current year, characterized by the growth of long basal shoots flowering at the top of the stem.

Flowering is abundant and long-lasting, new flowers are formed on shoots of the 1st and 2nd order; this group is characterized by their dense interweaving, therefore pruning of faded flowers and thinning is recommended.

First year

Similar to previous groups. Before planting, pruning is not performed, only damaged and thick roots, underdeveloped and damaged shoots are removed.

Second year

1. In spring, it is necessary to trim long annual basal stems by 1/3, shoots on stems that bloomed in the previous year to a height of 8-10 cm (by two to four buds), remove weak shoots and those that break the symmetry of the bush and grow incorrectly.
2. In summer, the rose blooms on shoots growing from the previous year's stems. New basal stems are growing. Summer pruning is recommended.

3. At the end of summer, second-order shoots begin to grow on cut stems, and flowers form on this year’s shoots.

4. In October, faded flowers, dry, diseased and very long branches are pruned to prevent them from being damaged by strong winds.

Third year and subsequent

5. In the spring, in April - March, shorten long annual stems by 1/3, shoots on stems that bloomed the previous year to a height of 8-10 cm (by two to four buds), remove weak shoots and those that break the symmetry of the bush and grow incorrectly.

6. In summer, roses bloom on the shoots of last year's stems. New basal stems are growing. Summer pruning (removal of faded flowers) is recommended.

7. At the end of summer, second-order shoots begin to grow on cut stems, and flowers form on this year’s shoots.

8. In October, faded flowers, dry, diseased and very long branches are pruned to prevent them from being damaged by strong winds.

A rose on a tall stem looks very decorative. This form of roses is obtained by budding on rose hips or wrinkled roses. To support the bush, the trunk must be strong enough. Varieties of hybrid tea roses, ground cover, climbing roses and floribunda are grafted.

Standard roses are pruned in the same way as bush roses. If the bush subsequently grows greatly and becomes heavy for the trunk, then severe pruning is used.

For uniform development of the crown, grafting is done with an eye on both sides of the trunk.

If a variety of hybrid tea or floribunda rose was grafted onto the trunk, then the bush will grow more upward and will need pruning appropriate to the group of roses to which the variety belonged.

If a hybrid tea rose is grafted, as a rule, pruning is reduced to shortening the main branches to 15 cm from the base (by three to five buds), if a floribunda rose, annual shoots are shortened to 25 cm from the base (by six to eight buds), biennial shoots - to 15 cm from the base (three to six buds).

First year

1. At the beginning of spring, cut strong stems to a height of 15 cm (three to five buds).
2. In autumn, in the second half of October - early November, the main, flowering and non-flowering non-woody branches are pruned.

Second year and subsequent

3. In spring, diseased, weak, dead and intersecting branches are removed; the middle of the bush should be free.

4. In spring, young shoots are also pruned to a height of 12-15 cm from the base (for three to four buds), the remaining lateral shoots are trimmed to 10 cm from the base (for two to four buds).

To create a beautiful weeping standard rose, it is necessary to use for grafting both ground cover roses, characterized by the growth of strong shoots over the season, and climbing varieties roses of the first group. To prune them, use the method corresponding to this group of roses.

Pruning comes down to shortening faded two-year-old stems into a ring at the end of summer, leaving new shoots from this year to bloom next year. If their quantity is small, it is recommended to leave a pair of two-year-old stems, which are located most symmetrically relative to the center of the bush, shortening them to a height of 10 cm (by two to three buds).

In order for the rose to have a beautiful, well-groomed appearance and regularly bloom profusely, pruning is necessary. Of course, roses can grow and bloom without it, for example, many climbing roses rarely need pruning, but this is rather the exception. Most rose bushes require regular pruning.

If the bush is not trimmed for a long time, and diseased, dried out, damaged branches are not removed, it becomes less attractive, and over time, the flowers become smaller and flowering becomes less abundant.

First year

1. At the beginning of spring, damaged, dry branches are pruned, about half of all main stems per ring. Cut the side shoots to a height of 10-15 cm from the base (two to three buds). Fertilize the soil with compost or rotted manure.
2. In summer, new basal shoots appear, flowering occurs on the shoots of old branches. It is advisable to do this approximately once every 3 weeks. foliar feeding to promote the formation of new strong stems.

Second year

1. In the spring, in March, the old remaining stems are removed, young shoots growing on last year's branches are shortened to a height of 15 cm from the base (by two to three buds). Fertilizers are applied.
2. In summer, the rose will bloom on young annual shoots. The new skeleton of the bush is formed by the young stems of this and last year.

Throughout the year, roses have to be pruned in spring, summer and autumn. Each such pruning is strictly specific goals. You will learn how to properly prune plants at different times of the year by watching our videos.

For pruning you will need: sharp pruning shears, a garden hacksaw (when pruning thick shoots), garden pitch to protect the cuts from infection, and thick, thick gloves to protect your hands.

Pruning roses in spring video lessons

Spring pruning is the main one and should be done every year. For different varieties, pruning techniques may differ markedly. After removing the cover, sanitary pruning is carried out, cutting out all dry and frozen shoots, leaving only living, green ones. The main pruning is carried out when the buds hatch, in the form of a video they explain in detail and show how to do it.

Spring trimming video:

Standard roses. When pruning in spring, try to keep the crown compact. For plants with drooping shoots, thin out the crown; for other varieties, shorten the shoots by 15 - 20 cm. Remember the main rule: cuts should be made above the bud that looks outward, and not into the middle of the bush, so that young, growing shoots grow to the sides , and not to the center of the plant

How to prune standard roses in spring:

Floribunda roses. With weak spring pruning, floribunda blooms early, but with strong spring pruning it may linger until August or even September, and the shoots will be very elongated. Therefore, roses of this group should be pruned moderately, by 4 - 6 eyes, this will help good development shoots and will provide abundant summer flowering.

English roses are recommended to be pruned before buds open. Late and severe pruning will delay the flowering period in the same way as with floribunda. Completely remove all weak, thin shoots; they will still not bloom, but will only shade the bush. Old, lignified branches are also removed to allow young shoots to grow.

Rules for spring pruning of English roses and floribunda video:

Ground cover roses no systematic, formative pruning is required. For most varieties, it is quite enough to remove only dry, damaged branches and sometimes lightly thin out the bushes.

Do I need to prune ground cover roses?

Pruning roses in summer after flowering video lesson

Summer pruning is primarily the removal of fading flowers, as well as blind, weak shoots growing inside the bush. The same mistake occurs everywhere: only one flower is removed, but the stem is not touched. In this case, re-blooming does not occur very soon or does not occur at all.

When the rose begins to bloom in the summer, you need to cut off the flower with part of the stem. Immediately below the flower, the leaves consist of three leaves, and a little lower there are five-leaf leaves. Well, the cut is made half a centimeter above the sheet consisting of five leaf plates. To properly form a bush, trim the shoot above the bud located on the outside.

On bushes there are sometimes blind shoots, shoots on which there are no buds; they are also subject to culling. These are the basic rules for summer pruning roses.

Summer pruning of roses after flowering:

Autumn pruning of roses for the winter video lessons

Roses do not particularly need autumn pruning. In autumn, bushes are pruned mainly to make it more convenient to cover them for the winter. Only immature, young shoots must be removed. It is advisable to trim off all leaves, as they can also serve as a source of infection.

Pruning roses in autumn:

climbing roses bloom on the shoots of the previous year, so these shoots must be preserved in winter. Autumn pruning of climbing roses comes down to thinning and removing branches that interfere with the shelter. The main pruning will be done in the spring.

Autumn pruning of climbing roses video:

Listen to an expert's opinion on the need for autumn pruning:

To avoid the spread of disease, all removed branches must be burned. Use only clean, sharp tools. The pruning shear blade should make a clean, smooth cut and not crush the shoot. Do not forget to cover the cut areas with garden varnish.

Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, did not particularly worry about mulching. But today this agricultural technique has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's a hassle. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

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Salmon backbone baked in Provençal herbs provides tasty pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. The champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then sprinkle with apple cider vinegar. These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Wild garlic and fresh dill get along well in one salad, highlighting each other’s aroma. The garlicky pungency of wild garlic will permeate both the salmon flesh and mushroom pieces.

Conifer tree or shrubs on the site is always great, but a lot of conifers is even better. Emerald needles of various shades decorate the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils, released by plants, not only aromatize, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most zoned adults coniferous plants, are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require proper care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the canopy flowering trees have long become an integral attribute of welcoming spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. Financial and academic year here it starts on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese take place under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

I am very interested in analyzing how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an object of trade, lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century B.C. e. About 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its propagation and cultivation were described.

Delight your family and prepare themed cottage cheese cookies in the shape of Easter eggs! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - sifting the flour, combining everything necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration as the pieces of dough turn into real ones. Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read our step by step recipe!

Among tuberous crops, there are not so many decorative deciduous favorites. And caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to own a caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all, it requires care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of caladiums are never justified. Attention and care can avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And the plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply easy-to-prepare dish for you today. This sauce is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or anything. Chicken and mushroom gravy will save you in moments when you don’t have time or don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Take your favorite side dish (you can do this in advance so everything is hot), add some gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.