How to choose a station to increase water pressure: types and use of pumps to maintain pressure in the water supply. Pump to increase water pressure: calculators for calculating the required pressure for a pump in the house Advantages of installing a water pressure increase

The Anmex company manufactures at its production site and supplies high-tech pressure boosters of the NAPOR series throughout Russia. for various purposes and design, made on the basis of modern components of Russian and foreign production.

In our pressure boosting stations we combine both European components, for example, pumps that have proven themselves in Russian realities international concerns: LEO, KSB, Grundfos, Wilo, Lowara, DAB, Flygt, as well as our own developments: modern logical controller of the SLK-1 series, graphic operator panels for serial products, power supplies, phase control relays, control cabinets of the “CLASS” series for control and protection pumping units and others interesting solutions, allowing to ensure high quality, reliability and maintainability of manufactured units.

Pumping stations are widely used in construction sites, V residential buildings, on various industries food and chemical industry, private houses and cottages, heating, circulation, irrigation and reclamation systems. In a word, where it is necessary to ensure the required flow and pressure, pressure boosting stations “NAPOR” are used.

In addition, urban areas for development are constantly decreasing, which forces construction companies increase the number of storeys in buildings, and the city water supply cannot provide the proper pressure in the cold water and hot water systems at such a building height. Monoblock stations that are completely ready for connection to networks help solve the problem.

Structurally, NAPOR pressure booster installations are divided into the following subgroups according to the type of pumps used:

Horizontal multistage pumps type CM, MHI
Vertical multistage pumps type CR, MVI, Helyx, Movitec
Horizontal single stage pumps type NB, BL, Etabloc
Vertical single-stage pumps type TP, IL, IPL, Etaline, Etaline-R

All of the above allows us to say with confidence that by using equipment from our production, you, as a customer, receive technically competent solutions (optimal in price, quality and delivery time) that will help you bring your water supply to a high quality level. new level when implementing their projects.

We provide a 2-year warranty on the supplied products, and also provide design, supervision, installation and commissioning services, and provide after-sales service and post-warranty service. We offer a range of turnkey services.

To calculate the pressure booster station Russian production please contact our engineers by phone, or e-mail. You can also download the questionnaire or fill out the interactive form directly on our website. We are in as soon as possible we will provide all necessary information and we will answer all your questions.

Thank you for your interest in the company and equipment produced by Anmex LLC. We hope the information on the site was useful and you found what you were looking for.

Plumbing - part utility networks private house and apartment. Due to low pressure in the pipes, residents often receive insufficient water. This situation limits the possibility of using two plumbing points at the same time, and the washing machine and dishwasher simply do not turn on. The only way to change the situation is pumping station, designed to increase water pressure. The power and productivity of the installation is selected individually. The compact device is able to normalize blood pressure and maintain an optimal level.

For urban water supply network accepted GOST standards assume a pressure of 4 atmospheres. This indicator is rare; seasonal changes in water consumption cause it to fluctuate in the range of 2.5-7 atmospheres. Normal work a shower, washing machine and sink will provide the atmosphere parameter 2, a jacuzzi or watering a garden will require raising it to 4. In reality, the pressure is often 1-1.5 atmospheres, excluding stable operation plumbing equipment. High pressure is also a negative factor, it negatively affects network elements, leading to their rapid wear.

Residents of apartments on the upper floors and owners of private houses face the problem of insufficient water supply in the summer. First of all, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of pipes clogging or becoming overgrown with lime deposits. If the problem is not in the diameter of the pipes, then installing pumping equipment will radically solve the problem. The pumping station will raise and stabilize the pressure in the system.

Classification of pumping equipment

A budget-friendly way to increase pressure in the water supply of an apartment or private house is to install a pressure pump. Devices can be divided into main groups:

manual - after being plugged into the power supply, they are constantly in working condition. 24/7 operation leads to rapid wear and tear. If there is no water in the system, the device may burn out;
automatic - the design includes a sensor that turns on the unit when the liquid moves. This option will cost more, but will last longer. The equipment is designed to pump clean water, so it is better to equip the system with a coarse filter. The light weight and dimensions of the pump allow it to be installed directly on the pipeline.

Cooling of the pump motor is carried out in two ways:

flow of passing liquid;
fan mounted on the motor shaft.

Based on water-lifting pumps, water pressure increasing stations are produced.

If there is often no liquid in the pipes, it will be necessary to modernize the system and install a self-priming mini pumping station. This compact device is able to increase the pressure and maintain it at a given level.

The equipment design includes:

membrane-type storage tank (hydraulic accumulator);
centrifugal pump;
system control relay.

The system automatically supplies water to fill the tank. The consumer uses the fluid accumulated by the accumulator. The main advantage of such a system is the prevention of pressure surges in pipes. In addition, the mini station provides a supply of fluid in the hydraulic accumulator, which can be used at any time.

As the water level drops, the pressure in the system decreases; at a given value, the relay turns on the pump again. The number of starts and service life of the pump depends on the volume of the tank; the larger it is, the less often the electronics operate, bringing the unit into operation. working condition. The area of the apartment is limited, so it is problematic to find a place for a large tank; in addition, the absorption of water by the equipment leads to airing of the system. Installing a pressure booster station without permission from utilities is illegal, and getting approval will not be easy, so installing a booster pump is preferable.

How to choose the right unit

Among the main criteria for choosing a mini station to increase pressure in the system:

Productivity – the amount of water that the installation pumps per unit of time (minute, hour).
Power – selected based on the number of consumers. A high score is not always a plus. The station sucks water from a source (well, pipeline); if the pump operates faster than it is filled, the unit may be left without liquid and overheat.
Correspondence of the model to the cross-section of pipes in an apartment or private house.
Maximum height of water rise. This indicator is important for the use of equipment for autonomous water intake in a private house and when pumping water to the upper floors of an apartment building.
Unit size. The dimensions of the station, including the hydraulic accumulator, must correspond to the area of the room where it will be installed.
Noise level. This criterion depends on the cooling method; a “wet rotor” operates silently, while a “dry rotor” is noisy due to the fan blades.
Permissible temperature range. Devices can be for hot, cold water or universal.
Installation type – vertical or horizontal, the choice depends on the characteristics of the room.
Reputation of the manufacturer. Products from unknown companies have an attractive price, but their quality is questionable, and service centers are missing. It is better to buy high-quality and reliable equipment from a manufacturer that has positive reviews.

Well-known equipment manufacturers

DAB offers a compact station with electronic control, E.sybox mini, for installation in an apartment or house. It is characterized by the absence of noise and vibration, provides constant pressure in pipes, easy to install. Lifting height – 8 m, capacity – 80 l/min, membrane tank 1 l. The mini unit can easily be placed under the sink.

The model of the German company Wilo PV-088 EA is mounted on metal pipes hot and cold water supply. The maximum pressure rise is up to 8 m, it works in manual and automatic mode. Cooling of the mechanism is carried out by a flow of liquid. Low noise level allows you to avoid discomfort when placed in an apartment.

The Grundfos UPA 15-90 pump operates in three modes: “Automatic”, “Manual”, “Off”. The automatic mode is controlled by a built-in sensor. Manual mode assumes permanent job, therefore it is necessary to monitor the presence of water in the system. The unit is characterized by low noise level and light weight. Its capacity is up to 1.5 cubic meters. m/h, working temperature– 60ºC.

Unlike the listed models, the Jemix W15GR booster pump operates on the “dry rotor” principle. The mechanism is cooled by a built-in fan. This design is more productive, but creates noise during operation. It has three operating modes: “MANUAL” - manual, “AUTO” - automatic, “OFF” - turned off. Provides a pressure rise of up to 10 m, productivity – 1.5 cubic meters. m/h.

Installation of a pressure booster pump

Installation of equipment to increase pressure begins with shutting off the water. The work includes the following stages:

The length of the pump along with the fitting is measured.
At the installation site, the length of the section is marked and the pipe is cut out.
WITH outside The resulting ends are threaded.
Adapters of the required diameter are installed, and the fitting included with the pump is screwed to them. An arrow on the equipment body indicates the flow movement; it is important to install it in accordance with the specified direction.
To install a separate outlet, a three-core cable is pulled. Grounding must be carried out, and the connection is made through an RCD.
The water is opened and the pump is checked for functionality. If the connection of the fittings is not tight enough, wrap up the FUM tape.

DIY station

If there is no device with the required parameters on the counter, you can make it yourself from components with the desired characteristics. A pressure boosting station consists of a small number of components and parts; it is enough to purchase a pump, a hydraulic accumulator of the required volume, and an automation unit. Suitable for a family of three storage tank for 50 liters, stagnation of water is also undesirable.

The control system should include:

smooth pump start;
dry running protection;
overload protection.

During installation, all elements of the water pressure increase station are installed in one place.

Tips for choosing and installing a mini pumping station

Give preference to a model with a check valve; this design increases the safety of the equipment.
Choose a station with a built-in filter; it will protect parts from foreign particles. If clogged, the element is removed and washed.
To place the equipment you need a warm room, otherwise at subzero temperatures the water in the accumulator will freeze.
To carry out maintenance without problems, install a shut-off valve before the pump.

In contact with

Storm

NPO Promelektroavtomatika offers complete automatic pumping stations produced by RusPromEnergoSystems LLC.

Complete set of automatic pumping installations for increasing pressure "Storm"

Pumping units from leading European manufacturers GRUNDFOS, WILO, KSB, mounted on a common base frame
Reception and pressure manifolds
Ball Valves
Check valves, pressure gauge, valves, pressure sensor
Dry running protection relay
Control cabinet

In addition, it is used shut-off valves and instrumentation of the DANFOSS company and control cabinets of NPP RITs LLC. The equipment is certified.

Application

Fire extinguishing systems
Pumping clean water and increasing pressure in waterworks, residential buildings, hotels, industrial enterprises, in hospitals, schools, etc.

Decoding the encoding:

Control type:

TO- cascade control
WITH- cascade control using soft start
E- control using frequency converter(one worker, the second hard reserve)
AND- control using a frequency converter

Order

The station is equipped with a RP control cabinet. Mounted on a common base frame. The installation is controlled in cascade, with the pumping units operating as follows: operating(s) + peak(s), i.e. additional. the pump(s) are switched on automatically as needed. The performance of pumping stations is regulated by turning on or off the required number of pumps. Pumps are connected in accordance with the minimum operating time, and disconnected in accordance with the maximum operating time.

Automatic pumping unit of cascade type with soft start device of the "Storm-S" series

Order

The station is equipped with an RPS control cabinet equipped with a soft start system.

Mounted on a common base frame.

The installation is controlled in cascade, with the pumping units operating as follows: operating(s) + peak(s), i.e. additional. the pump(s) are switched on automatically as needed.

Automatic pumping unit of an economical series with a frequency converter of the "Storm-E" series

Maintaining the specified parameters occurs due to changes in the performance of the pumping units, while the operation of the installation is carried out as follows: operating (e) + peak (e), i.e. additional. the pump(s) are switched on automatically as needed.

You open the tap and water flows out of it in a sluggish stream. It’s still enough to wash your hands or rinse the dishes, but it’s no longer possible to take a full shower. The situation is even worse with complex household appliances - gas water heater it simply does not start, but on the displays of the washing or dishwasher the notorious “Error” is displayed.

The situation is very sad, but, alas, quite common. Residents of apartments in city high-rise buildings face this problem to a greater extent - during peak water collection hours, the pressure in the water supply on the upper floors drops sharply. But owners of houses “on the ground” connected to city water supply networks are not at all immune from this - we have to admit that the quality of services utilities often still very far from acceptable indicators. This means that some measures need to be taken.

It would seem that the solution is obvious. It is necessary to install a pump to increase the water pressure, and the problem will go away on its own. However, such a measure often becomes a “half solution,” that is, it does not completely resolve the issue. And in some cases, installing just such a pump becomes a waste of money, since a more in-depth, systematic approach is required.

In the technical documentation of pumping equipment, in articles and descriptions on this topic, on instrument scales, various units of pressure in the water supply system may be used. To immediately clarify this issue, here is a small table that will help you navigate in the future:

	Bar	Technical atmosphere (at)	Water column meter	Kilopascal (kPa)
1 bar	1	1.0197	10.2	100
1 technical atmosphere (at)	0.98	1	10	98.07
1 meter of water column	0.098	0.1	1	9.8
1 kilopascal (kPa)	0.01	0.0102	0.102	1

Too much high accuracy at the everyday level we will not need, therefore, to assess our conditions, with full permissible level errors, you can get by with an approximate ratio:

1 bar ≈ 1 at ≈ 10 m aq. Art. ≈ 100 kPa ≈ 0.1 MPa

So, what pressure is considered normal for a home plumbing network?

According to current regulations, water must be supplied to the end consumer at a pressure of approximately 4 bar. With this pressure, the operation of almost all existing plumbing and household appliances– from conventional taps and cisterns to hydromassage showers or bathtubs.

However, in practice such even pressure is extremely rare. Moreover, deviations to a smaller or larger direction can be very significant. Both phenomena can seriously affect the correct operation of the home water supply system. Thus, if the threshold of 6–7 bar is exceeded, depressurization may occur at pipe connections and at shut-off and control valves. With surges up to 10 bar, there is a high probability of more serious accidents.

But dealing with high blood pressure, in principle, is not difficult - just install it at the entrance to your house or apartment special device, a reducer that will equalize the pressure in the internal distribution of the water supply system and eliminate the phenomenon of water hammer. If you select or configure the reducer correctly, the optimal water pressure will be maintained at all water intake points.

The problem is much more acute if there is a systematic lack of water pressure in the system. And here, first of all, it’s worth trying to figure out what is causing this phenomenon. Well, for this you need, first of all, to have a clear idea of what pressure is in your local home plumbing, does it change depending on the time of day or the point of water collection, how are things going, for example, among neighbors landing and along the riser - above and below. Such information will greatly clarify the picture.

The easiest way, of course, is to measure pressure using a conventional pressure gauge. Such a device is not so expensive, and it makes sense to install it permanently at the entrance to an apartment or house. It’s even better to install a mesh wash filter for coarse water purification at the inlet with a built-in pressure gauge - two problems are solved at once. All that remains is for a certain period to regularly take and record readings approximately four times a day - during peak consumption hours in the evening and morning, in “normal” daytime and at night. Then a preliminary analysis of the situation can be carried out.

You can have a portable pressure gauge on your farm or rent it from friends. It is easy to temporarily connect it, for example, using a flexible connection, to the water sockets of faucets or even directly to the spouts, if the threaded connection allows.

You can also make your own simple pressure gauge, which, despite the primitiveness of the design, is nevertheless capable of giving very accurate results.

To make such a device, you will need a transparent plastic tube about 2000 mm long. Its diameter of great importance does not have one - the main thing is that it is convenient to make a sealed connection with a fitting that will be screwed, for example, onto a faucet spout instead of a divider nozzle.

Before starting the measurement, the tube is connected to the tap (in principle, it can be any other water outlet) and is positioned vertically. The water is started briefly, and then a position is achieved so that the liquid level is approximately on the same horizontal line with the connection point, so that there is no air gap(shown in the diagram - left fragment). In this position, the height of the air section of the tube is measured ( ho).

Then the upper hole of the cabin is tightly closed with a plug to prevent air from escaping. The tap is opened fully. The water, compressing the air column, will rise. When the position stabilizes, in a minute or two, all that remains is to measure the experimental height of the air column ( heh).

Given these two values, it is easy to calculate the pressure using the following formula:

Rv = Ro × (ho/he)

Rv– pressure in the water supply at a given point.

Ro– initial pressure in the tube. It would not be a big mistake to mistake it for atmospheric, that is, 1.0332 at.

ho And he – air column height values obtained experimentally

Calculator for experimental determination of pressure in a water supply system

Enter the results of two measurements and get the result

atmospheric

ho - height of the air column before opening the tap, mm

he - height of the air column with the tap fully open, mm

If measurements are taken at several points and the readings are different, then this is a sure sign that possible reason insufficient pressure on a particular plumbing or household appliance lies in defects in the internal water supply wiring itself. It is possible that the old pipes are completely overgrown with rust or limescale, and no additional equipment will change the situation - you will have to change the piping.

Require from such a water supply normal pressure- just naive

The reason for the drop in pressure can be filters that have not been changed or cleaned for a long time - and carrying out appropriate prevention will immediately put everything in place.

You should compare the readings with similar parameters in neighboring apartments located at the same level - they should be approximately equal. Sometimes this helps to identify a problem that lies in the water riser.

It would be nice to find out the situation in the neighboring apartments vertically - how much of a problem low blood pressure affects them. As the floor height increases, the pressure (in meters of water column) should decrease by approximately the excess value.

And finally, if, of course, it is possible, it is advisable to find out the pressure on the “loungers” of the house, that is, on the collectors in the basement to which risers in the entrances are connected. It is possible that the utility companies are fulfilling their obligations, and the water pressure to the risers is normal.

This means that the area of the problem will be localized - often the “instigator” of all the troubles becomes the owner of the apartment living down the same riser, who, when carrying out repairs in his bathroom, narrowed the diameter of the pipe for one reason or another - “it’s cheaper”, “it’s more convenient and beautiful” , “that’s what an experienced plumber suggested,” or even “everything is fine with me, and the rest doesn’t bother me.” Here you will either have to come to a good agreement, or take administrative measures through public utilities.

If the pressure on the house collector is also weak, you should “seek the truth” from the utility companies, since the quality of the service they provide does not meet the requirements. Whether it will be possible to achieve anything is still a big question, since you can hear a lot of reasons: from those requiring replacement main pipelines to the extent that it is currently impossible to install new pumping equipment to replace the outdated one.

What can you do?

If all the steps taken in the “administrative plan” have not yielded results, and pressure is not enough to ensure the correct operation of plumbing and household appliances, technological measures will have to be taken. Here you will need to install one or another additional equipment. But, again, to say that a pump to increase water pressure will become a panacea would be naive.

Such a measure will only become effective if water always flows almost uninterruptedly, but its pressure is not enough to trigger household appliances. For example, the owner of a private house connected to a main line, in which there is a constant pressure of no higher than 1 - 1.5 bar, will be able to install a pump at the entrance to the house or even in front of the water collection point, which requires higher levels. To some extent, this is also acceptable in urban multi-storey buildings, but again - with a stable water supply, but with a “deficit” of pressure.

If the “dips” in pressure reach the point that on the upper floors there is often a complete loss of water from the taps, the booster pump will not justify itself in any way. Firstly, he needs to “rely” on the minimum permissible pressure in the pipe for a given model in order to produce the required value at the output, and he will not be able to create anything from emptiness. Secondly, by increasing the pressure, the pump necessarily creates a certain vacuum behind. If there is insufficient pressure, a tap open on any lower floor turns into a “hole” through which air can be sucked in. The pump will start trying to pump air, and in the best case, if it is equipped with a dry-running protection system, it will simply turn off constantly, but if not, it will quickly burn out. And thirdly, while somehow improving the situation in his apartment, the owner of the pump unwittingly worsens the situation in the neighboring ones.

What is the way out? There are several of them, but not all of them will be easy to implement.

1. Install a pumping station operating in automatic mode, preferably with pumped storage membrane tank the maximum possible volume. The main element of such a station is a self-priming centrifugal pump, that is, capable of independently, even at “zero” inlet pressure, lifting water from a certain depth (for example, from a basement collector or an autonomous source) and creating a very significant pressure at the outlet.

The pressure switch usually included in the station kit will ensure that the pump motor is turned on only when the pressure in the home (apartment) water supply drops below the set level. The storage tank will create a reserve supply of water, which will also be under pressure and consumed in cases where the water supply to the main line is temporarily interrupted.

Thus, the pumping station lifts water upward, creates the necessary pressure in the system, and provides a certain supply of water. The larger the volume of the storage tank, the less often the pump will turn on.

The solution is excellent, one might say optimal for private households, but in multi-storey buildings it can pose a lot of difficulties. If the pressure in the risers is weak, then many residents of the upper floors suffer from this. If they begin to get out of the situation in the indicated way, then real competition “for the stream” will flare up in the house, since the total amount of incoming water will still be insufficient for everyone. Again the same situation as mentioned above - sucking water out of the pipes will lead to airing with all the ensuing consequences. In this case, scandals and proceedings, “denunciations” against each other to the operating organization or to the “vodokanal” are inevitable. And installing such a station without the knowledge of utility workers may well result in a hefty fine, since the equipment introduces an imbalance in general work plumbing system Houses.

There is one more limitation: self-priming pumps are usually limited in depth (in the case of a high-rise building, height) of water lifting - about 7 ÷ 8 meters. That is, for the first or second floor it will be suitable, the third is a stretch, and higher it is unlikely to cope.

2. Install a large, non-pressure tank in your home so that it is constantly replenished during normal water supply hours, even if the pressure is insufficient. A simple float valve will prevent the tank from overfilling.

If such a container of at least 200 ÷ 500 liters can be installed at ceiling height, then water from it will either flow by gravity to the water collection points, in front of which it is already possible to install conventional compact pressure booster pumps, or it will be possible to mount a booster pump at the common outlet of the container a pump whose power and performance will be sufficient for all consumer devices. As an option, a compact pumping station with a small-volume hydraulic accumulator, which will already be powered from a storage tank. In this case, you don’t have to lift the tank up, but find the most convenient place for it for the existing conditions.

The main obstacle to the implementation of such a project is the cramped conditions of standard city apartments: there is simply nowhere to install even the largest container. Again, this solution seems optimal for a private developer.

However, it is quite possible that it will be possible to cooperate with neighbors who also have a similar problem to install a collective large-capacity storage tank, for example, in attic Houses. The scheme will be the same - water flows to each apartment by gravity, and then the owners themselves decide at which points they need to install a booster pump.

A possible solution to the problem is to install a collective storage tank

3. The third option also involves cooperation - using the collected funds, installing a powerful pumping station with an impressive storage tank and a hydraulic accumulator, so that the power and productivity of the equipment is enough for the entire riser. Thus, in the basement it will be possible to have a significant free-flow and pressurized supply of water, and all residents will equally receive it in the right amount and with the required pressure.

It is clear that this is easy to say, but very difficult to implement, since it can be extremely difficult to persuade people. Nevertheless, there are plenty of examples of such collective interaction between residents of the house.

Now that the basics have been covered possible cases the use of pumps that increase water pressure, you can refer to the equipment overview.

Selecting a pump to increase water pressure

So, if the situation can be completely corrected only by installing a pump to increase water pressure, then you need to know how to choose the right device.

All pumps of this class can be divided into two large groups - these are devices with a dry and wet rotor.

Pumps with a wet rotor are more compact, less noisy, and do not require any preventive maintenance, since all rubbing parts are lubricated by the pumped liquid. They are installed directly by inserting into a pipe, for example, in front of a household appliance or water collection point, and do not require any additional fastenings.

A typical representative of wet rotor pumps

Their disadvantage is their low productivity and the additional water pressure created. In addition, there are restrictions on the installation method - the rotor axis of the pump electric drive must be located in a horizontal position.

Pumps with a dry rotor can be immediately distinguished even externally due to their pronounced asymmetrical shape - the power unit is placed to the side, which has its own air cooling system - a fan impeller located on the axis. This arrangement most often involves additional cantilever mounting of the device to the wall surface.

Dry rotor pumps usually require additional wall mounting

Such devices usually have higher performance characteristics, and at making the right choice and installations are sometimes able to “serve” several water points at once.

Pumps with a dry rotor require regular lubrication of friction units, and during operation they can create, albeit small, but still noticeable noise - this must also be taken into account when choosing their installation location.

In general, devices of this class of both types, both in design, principle of operation and installation rules, are very similar to circulation pumps that are built into the circuit autonomous system heating. To avoid repetition, the reader who is interested in these issues can be directed to the appropriate publication.

What you need to know about circulation pumps?
These compact devices ensure stable movement of coolant along the circuits of the heating system. Read about the device, calculation of the required operational parameters, selection and installation in a special publication on our portal.
The fundamental difference is that circulation pumps, as a rule, operate in constant mode while the heating system is activated. Devices designed to increase pressure in the water supply system do not require this mode - they should work only when necessary, when pressure needs to be provided.
There are two approaches to solving this issue.
Some inexpensive pumps They have only manual control - that is, the user turns them on independently as needed. This is certainly not a good approach, given the forgetfulness of some people. In addition, if the device, for example, ensures the operation of a washing machine, then water is taken for washing and rinsing periodically, in accordance with the program, that is, most of the cycle of pumping equipment efforts is not required.
The optimal solution is to install a device equipped with a flow sensor. The pump will start only when the tap is opened and, naturally, if there is water in the pipeline. This will relieve the device from unnecessary work and prevent it from overheating or burning out from “dry running”.

A flow sensor can be included with the pump or purchased additionally. It is always installed after the pump in the direction of water movement.
If the water pressure in the water supply is unstable, that is, it can be normal, but at certain periods it becomes insufficient, then it is not necessary, but very useful addition can become a pressure switch, which is installed at the inlet, in front of the pump.
A useful addition to the connection diagram is a pressure switch
In this case, the pump power circuit is switched through a relay, which can be configured so that it is activated and turns on the power to the device only if there is insufficient pressure in the system. At normal pressure levels, the pump will not turn on even after the flow sensor is activated.
When choosing a pump, be sure to take into account the necessary difference by which the pressure must be increased for the correct operation of plumbing fixtures or household appliances. You should not expect “exorbitant” values - usually this parameter lies within the range of 0.8 ÷ 1.5 bar (8 ÷ 15 meters of water column).
If it is purchased for installation on a hot water supply pipe (there are such situations), then its characteristics must correspond to operating conditions at elevated temperatures of the pumped liquid. Typically, such information is indicated in product passports.
An important parameter is the performance of the device - the amount of water pumped per unit of time. The performance must be higher than the average flow rate at the point of consumption in front of which the equipment is installed.
When choosing a model, it is certainly worth giving preference to “reputable” brands, while checking how available it is in your region service maintenance, and what warranties apply to this device.
Several popular high-quality models are shown in the table:
Model name Illustration Short description Created additional water pressure
"Grundfos UPA 15-90" and "UPA 15-90N" One of the most popular models of the famous Danish manufacturer.
Wet type pump. Built-in flow sensor.
Quiet operation, small dimensions.
Usually installed in front of a specific point of consumption ( washing machine, geyser, etc.).
Model UPA 15-90 – cast iron body, UPA 15-90 – stainless steel.
The minimum inlet pressure is 0.2 bar.
Power – 110 W.
Maximum productivity – up to 25 l/min. 8 m water. Art.
"Wilo-PB-201 EA" Glandless rotor pump.
Drive power – 200 W. The engine is air cooled.
Built-in flow sensor - triggered at a flow rate of at least 2 l/min.
Connecting pipes – 1".
Increased productivity – up to 55 l/min.
Quiet operation. Console for fastening to the surface.
Capable of providing pressure at several points of consumption. 15 m water. Art.
"Jemix W15GR-15 A" Pump with a “dry rotor” and air-cooled drive.”
Power -120 W.
Designed for use in cold and hot water supply - permissible water temperature - up to 110 ° C.
Productivity – nominal 10 l/min, maximum – 25 l/min.
Pipes for tapping into pipes – 15 mm.
A flow sensor is included in the delivery package.
The control unit allows you to select manual or auto mode work. 10 ÷ 15 m water. Art.
"Aquatica 774715" An inexpensive pump, usually designed for one point of consumption.
"Dry rotor". Brass body. Asynchronous, almost silent motor.
Low power consumption - power of only 80 W.
Connecting pipes – ¾".
Three operating modes.
Capacity – 10 l/min.
Only for cold water. up to 10 m water. Art.
Video: installing a pump in an apartment to increase water pressure
Selecting a pumping station
So, the second option for a radical solution to the problem of ensuring normal water pressure is to install a pumping station.
This device is a surface centrifugal self-priming pump. It can be conventional or equipped with an injector - this technological addition significantly increases the pump’s ability to lift water from a significant depth, but, however, makes its operation noisier.
The pumping station may already have a built-in membrane-type hydraulic accumulator, or this element of the required volume can be purchased separately. A prerequisite is the presence of a pressure switch, but in this case it is already installed after the pump itself - when the set pressure threshold is reached in the hydraulic accumulator, the power to the power unit is turned off.
The working pressure in the hydraulic accumulator is always somewhat excessive - it is calculated in such a way as to ensure the correct operation of all plumbing and household devices, and at the same time a certain reserve was also preserved. As water is consumed, the pressure drops, and when it reaches a certain lower limit, pre-set by the manufacturer or the user himself, the relay closes - and the pump again runs the cycle of replenishing the water supply to the upper threshold.
In fact, the pumping station does not just increase the water pressure - it creates it itself in a closed loop. home system water supply and constantly maintains it at a given level. And the presence of a hydraulic accumulator makes it possible to hope for a reserve supply of water in case the supply from an external source (main network) suddenly stops.
In this case, a flow sensor is not required - the pump does not respond to the current water flow, but to the pressure level in the storage tank.
As a rule, they are equipped with pressure gauges to make it more convenient to visually monitor the work.
Installing a pumping station is much more complicated than the usual installation of a booster pump. It is better not to deal with this issue yourself, but to invite an appropriate specialist.
When installing, it should be taken into account that there are practically no completely silent pumping stations. This means that it is necessary to provide a place for it that, firstly, would be located at the entrance to the house or apartment, and secondly, would provide necessary sound insulation for residential premises.
The hydraulic accumulator can be quite small...
The hydraulic accumulator included in the pumping station kit can be quite small, literally a few liters. However, it should be remembered that while gaining in compactness, you can lose in the duration of operation of the device and in energy consumption - the smaller the tank volume, the more often it will turn on and off pumping unit, the faster its “motor resource” is consumed.
There is nothing stopping you from purchasing a hydraulic accumulator of the required volume - they are also sold separately. For two people, a 24-liter tank is usually sufficient. For a family of 3-5 people, a hydraulic accumulator with a capacity of 50 liters will already be required.
Well, if free space allows, and there are interruptions in the water supply from city networks, then a free-flow storage tank with a float valve will not hurt - the pumping station will draw water from it. This scheme has already been mentioned above.
The optimal solution is that the pumping station takes water from a large non-pressure storage tank
Since a pumping station is usually installed to ensure the operation of the entire water supply network of a private house or apartment, when choosing a model, you must pay attention Special attention on the pressure it creates and on productivity. It will be of little use if, taking into account the height and distance of the water collection points in the farthest section, the pressure is insufficient. In the practice of private households, this could be, for example, a garden tap through which watering is carried out personal plot. Therefore, when choosing, you should focus on the points that are most distant in height and length. If these are just mixers, then a pressure of 10÷15 meters (1÷1.5 bar) will be enough for them. In the case of installation of equipment that requires special pressure parameters, they are taken as the basis.

Model name	Short description	Created additional water pressure
"Grundfos UPA 15-90" and "UPA 15-90N"	One of the most popular models of the famous Danish manufacturer. Wet type pump. Built-in flow sensor. Quiet operation, small dimensions. Usually installed in front of a specific point of consumption ( washing machine, geyser, etc.). Model UPA 15-90 – cast iron body, UPA 15-90 – stainless steel. The minimum inlet pressure is 0.2 bar. Power – 110 W. Maximum productivity – up to 25 l/min.	8 m water. Art.
"Wilo-PB-201 EA"	Glandless rotor pump. Drive power – 200 W. The engine is air cooled. Built-in flow sensor - triggered at a flow rate of at least 2 l/min. Connecting pipes – 1". Increased productivity – up to 55 l/min. Quiet operation. Console for fastening to the surface. Capable of providing pressure at several points of consumption.	15 m water. Art.
"Jemix W15GR-15 A"	Pump with a “dry rotor” and air-cooled drive.” Power -120 W. Designed for use in cold and hot water supply - permissible water temperature - up to 110 ° C. Productivity – nominal 10 l/min, maximum – 25 l/min. Pipes for tapping into pipes – 15 mm. A flow sensor is included in the delivery package. The control unit allows you to select manual or auto mode work.	10 ÷ 15 m water. Art.
"Aquatica 774715"	An inexpensive pump, usually designed for one point of consumption. "Dry rotor". Brass body. Asynchronous, almost silent motor. Low power consumption - power of only 80 W. Connecting pipes – ¾". Three operating modes. Capacity – 10 l/min. Only for cold water.	up to 10 m water. Art.