Foot-operated lathe: do it yourself. Mechanization after power supply, the simplest machines Foot drive of a lathe

As you know, household sewing machines come with manual, foot and electric drive. sewing machine with foot drive gives a greater speed of rotation of the flywheel compared to a machine with a manual drive, and frees the hands of the operator from the rotation of the flywheel. All this creates Better conditions for work, leads to an increase in labor productivity and improves the quality of products.

Sewing machine with foot drive

In sewing factories, workshops, ateliers, industrial universal and special sewing machines are used. On special machines perform only one operation: sew on buttons, make buttonholes, overcast seams, embroider, etc. On universal machines, many operations can be performed on sewing parts and processing sections of the product, and with the help of devices, the product can be sewn from beginning to end. Household sewing machines are universal.

Exercise

Look at figure 28, find the indicated parts on the sewing machine and tell us how the foot-operated sewing machine differs from sewing machine with manual drive.

Foot drive. The foot drive (Fig. 29) has a pedal 9 mounted on screws (centers). It is brought into oscillatory motion by the legs of the worker. This movement with the help of connecting rod 8 and crank 7 turns into rotational and is transmitted to the starting wheel 4. The rim of the starting wheel has a groove into which a round belt 3 is inserted. The belt connects the starting wheel to the flywheel pulley 2 mounted on the main shaft of the machine.

In this way, the rotation of the starter wheel is transmitted by the belt to the flywheel pulley. For safety reasons, the starter wheel is closed from the front with a shield 6. At the end of work, the belt is removed from the starter wheel using a layer 5.

Sanitary and hygienic requirements and safety regulations

When working on a foot-operated sewing machine, basically the same sanitary and hygienic requirements and safety regulations must be observed as when working on a hand-operated machine (Appendix 4 and 5). Besides:

1. When working on a foot-operated sewing machine, you need to pay attention Special attention on the position of the arms and legs

2. Do not wear the belt while the machine is running.

3. Do not hold the belt with your hand, otherwise you may injure your hand with a paper clip.

5. Remove the belt from the rim of the starter wheel with a pull.

Remember the words: foot drive, starter wheel, drive belt, deflector, shield.

Questions

1. What sanitary and hygienic requirements must be observed when working on a sewing machine?

2. What safety precautions must be observed when operating a foot operated machine?

3. With the help of what part is the rotational movement of the starting wheel transmitted to the flywheel?

Exercises

1. Starting and stopping the machine

1) Set the car to freewheel.

2) Move the flywheel of the machine. To do this, put your feet on the pedal, right slightly ahead of the left.

With your right hand, turn the flywheel towards you and, working with your feet, rock the pedal. Put your hands on the platform.

Pay attention to the correct direction of rotation of the handwheel!

3) Stop the car. To do this, stop rocking the pedal, and right hand hold the flywheel (fingers should be closed).

2. Working on a machine without thread

1) Put the machine on the working course.

2) Place fabric under the foot and lower the foot.

3) Move the flywheel of the machine. Watch for the correct position of the hands and the movement of the fabric! The fabric should move away from the worker.

4) Stop the car.

Repeat the exercise several times.

machine needle

The machine needle is one of the important working parts of the sewing machine. She pierces the fabric and passes a thread through it, threaded into the eye. Depending on the type of work performed in various machines apply needles different lengths and forms (Fig. 31). Needles must be strong and resilient. They are made from high quality steel.

Needle device. The machine needle consists of three main parts: a flask, a blade and a point (Fig. 32).

Flask cylindrical shape has a flat. The blade is also cylindrical in shape, but of a smaller diameter so that the needle passes more easily through the puncture made in the fabric by the point. The blade has two grooves - long and short. The grooves prevent the thread from rubbing against the fabric.

From the side of the long groove, the thread runs along the entire length of the needle blade. On the other hand, the thread touches the needle only in that part of it that enters the fabric: a short groove is made for this length.

The sharp end of the needle - the point - is its working part. It serves to pierce the fabric and has an eye for threading.

Needle selection. To get a good machine stitch, it is very important to choose the right needle.

Machine needles are distinguished by numbers - from 75 to 150. The number is placed on the needle flask. The larger the number, the thicker the needle. Needles are selected depending on the thickness of the threads, the number of which, in turn, depends on the type of sewn fabrics (Table 21).

When choosing a needle, you need to pay attention to its quality. The blade of the needle must be straight, the point well sharpened, the grooves and the eye must be smooth and well ground, as roughness and scratches reduce the strength of the thread and cause it to break.

Tasks

1. Consider a machine needle. Find on it the parts indicated in Figure 32. Compare the device of a machine needle with a manual one. Answer the questions: 1) what is the purpose of the machine needle? 2) What part of the needle is working and what work does it do? 3) Why is the eye in the machine needle located at its sharp end, and not at the blunt one, like a hand needle?

2. Using the table, select a needle and thread for sewing chintz and satin products and answer the questions: 1) what determines the selection of a machine needle?

2) How to determine the quality of the needle?

Installing the machine needle (Fig. 33)

Exercises

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position.

2. Loosen the needle clamp screw.

3. Insert the needle through the needle holder into the needle bar until it stops.

The long groove of the needle must be on the side of the thread guide!

4. Fasten the needle holder screw.

5. Check if the needle passes freely into the hole in the needle plate and does not touch the hook. To do this, lower and raise the needle.

The upper thread is threaded into the eye of the needle from the side of the thread guide located on the needle holder!

7. Check stitch quality.

Needle setting has great importance. The normal operation of the machine depends on the quality of the needle and its correct installation (Table 22).

Questions

1. How to install the machine needle correctly?

2. What is the name of the part of the machine into which the needle is inserted?

3. In which direction should the long groove point when inserting the needle?

4. Which side is threaded into the needle?

5. What malfunctions in the sewing machine can be caused by incorrect installation of the needle or its defects?

Machine sewing

Exercises

1. Take a fabric measuring 30 x 40 cm, fold it in half with the wrong side inward and sweep (Fig. 34, a).

2. Draw lines every 3 cm parallel to the tissue sections.

3. Sew the fabric along the marked lines and remove running stitches (Fig. 34, b).

Follow the rules for working on the machine!

4. Check the quality of the resulting line: the correctness and evenness of the line.

Use the resulting fabric sample to make a mitt-holder for grabbing hot dishes.

Practical work

Making a mitten

Progress

1. Apply the template of the mitten-handler to the prepared fabric and circle its contours (Fig. 35, a). You can make the pattern yourself: trace the contour of the hand and cut it out with a seam allowance of 1 cm (Fig. 35.6).

2. Cut out a mitten, fold the parts and sweep at a distance of 1 cm from the cuts.

3. Stitch the mitten (Fig. 35, c), remove the running stitches, process the cuts with buttonhole stitches.

4. Make a thread loop (Fig. 36).

5. Check the quality of the work performed: the quality of the stitching, the quality of the handiwork (stitching and loop stitching).

Winder

For winding threads on a bobbin in a sewing machine there is a device: winder and stretching device . The winder is attached to the right side of the sleeve, near the flywheel, and the tensioner is attached to the machine platform (Fig. 37).

The winder (Fig. 38) is a metal rod-spindle 5 with a sleeve put on it. At the right end of the spindle there is a pulley 7, on the rim of which a rubber wheel 6 is put on, at the left end there is a pin 4. The spindle is connected to the machine sleeve using a lever 8. To fix the spindle in desired position there is a latch 9. For even winding of threads, the latch is equipped with a tongue 1.

The tensioner consists of two tension washers mounted on the platform and a spool pin.

Exercise

Look at the drawing of the winder and find the parts marked on it on the sewing machine.

Exercise. Winding thread on the bobbin

1. Put the machine on a free ride.

2. Put the spool on the spool pin located on the machine platform (see Fig. 37) and pull the thread between the tensioner washers.

3. Wind a few turns of thread onto the bobbin by hand.

4. Put the bobbin on the winder spindle so that the spindle pin fits into the groove of the bobbin (see fig. 38, 3 - 4). The bobbin is thus fixed on the spindle and will not turn when winding. The thread from the bobbin should run to the worker.

5. Press the rubber wheel against the flywheel rim while pushing the lever sleeve so that the latch tongue is inserted between the walls of the bobbin. Thus, the rubber wheel will come into close contact with the flywheel rim and the winder will start working.

6. Move the flywheel. Wind the thread around the bobbin until the latch tongue bounces off the bobbin. When winding, the thread should lie tightly, in even rows, otherwise it will tangle and tear during sewing.

7. Cut the thread and remove the bobbin from the spindle.

Remember the words: winder, tensioner, winder spindle, pin, bushing, latch.

Questions

1. Tell us about the sequence of winding the thread on the bobbin.

2. Why, putting the bobbin on the winder spindle, lead the spindle pin into the groove of the bobbin?

3. What role does the latch tongue play when winding thread on the bobbin?

4. Why is there a rubber wheel on the winder pulley?

5. How should the thread lie down when it is wound on the bobbin?

Linen seams

Linen products are sewn so that the fabric sections are inside the seam. This connecting seams: double and zip. They are called linen seams(Table 23).

Practical work

Production of samples of linen seams

Equipment: work box, four pieces of cloth measuring 10 x 10 cm.

Making a double seam pattern

Progress

1. Prepare the sample: fold two pieces of fabric wrong side inward, chop and sweep.

2. Stitch parts (Fig. 39, a). Remove running stitches and, spreading the seam allowance on two sides, iron it. Turn the sample on the wrong side, straighten the seam and sweep (see Fig. 39, b).

3. Sew parts, remove running stitches, iron finished seam. Cut the sections of the sample with zigzag scissors or overcast (see Fig. 39, c).

Making a stitch pattern

Progress

1. Prepare the sample: fold and chop off two parts of the fabric with their right sides inward so that the lower part protrudes by 0.7 cm (Fig. 40, a).

2. Round the cut of the upper part with the lower part, sweep and grind the parts (Fig. 40, b).

3. Remove running stitches, fold seam towards upper piece and baste. Sew the seam (Fig. 40, c).

4. Remove running stitches, iron the finished seam, cut the sections of the sample with zigzag scissors or overcast (Fig. 40, d).

Sample design. Attach samples to the album and sketch the seams.

Attachments used when working on a sewing machine

When using the sewing machine great help render various fixtures small-scale mechanization (Fig. 41). They improve the quality of processed products, facilitate labor and increase its productivity. Working with devices does not require preliminary sweeping of the parts to be sewn.

By using sewing paws(Fig. 41, a) it is possible to perform a sewing seam, and with the help of a foot-knife (Fig. 41.6) - a hem seam with a closed cut (hem). For making seams different widths use paws-breakers of certain sizes.

When making a double seam, you can use a limiting ruler - the seam will turn out to be more even.

Remember the words: linen seams, a double seam, a sewing seam, a sewing foot, a knife foot.

Questions

1. What kind of assistance do the sewing aids provide?

2. In how many steps is the sewing seam done with the sewing foot?

3. How are seams of different widths made with the cutter foot?

4. What kind of seams can be made with a limiter bar?

Connections of machine parts

Movable and fixed connections of parts. Connections of machine parts are movable and fixed. Movable called connections in which some parts can move relative to others. motionless called such connections in which the parts cannot move relative to each other.

In a sewing machine, an example of a movable connection is the connection of the foot drive starter wheel with the axis (Fig. 42, a), and the fixed connection is the connection of the winder pulley with the spindle (Fig. 42, b).

Detachable and non-detachable connections of parts. Movable and fixed connections can be detachable and one-piece. Plug connections can be disassembled and reassembled repeatedly without destroying the parts. At permanent connection you cannot separate the parts without damaging the connection or one of the parts.

Examples of such connections in a sewing machine are the connections shown in Table 24.

Remember the words: movable and fixed connections, detachable and non-detachable connections.

Tasks

1. Look at table 24 and find the indicated connections on the sewing machine.

2. Determine the types of connections of the parts shown in the figure (Fig. 43).

Questions and tasks for repeating the topic "Sewing on a sewing machine"

1. Name the parts of the foot drive of the sewing machine in the sequence of transmission of movement from the pedal to the flywheel.

2. Tell us about the sanitary and hygienic requirements when working on a foot-operated sewing machine.

3. What safety regulations warn about the care of the sewing machine drive belt?

4. What is the purpose of the needle grooves and why do they have different lengths?

5. How to choose and install a machine needle?

6. How does the winder work?

7. What connecting seams do you know?

8. What linen seams do you know and what is their peculiarity?

9. What devices are used when making linen seams?

10. Fill in the table:

Household sewing machines have three types of drive devices - manual drive, foot and electric.
Some machines can be equipped with a drive of any kind (for example, all models of the Podolsk Mechanical Plant named after M. I. Kalinin; "Radom" or "Archer" (NDP); "Veritas" (GDR).

MANUAL DRIVE

The manual drive consists of a housing 1 (Fig. 17), which is attached to the sleeve of the machine with a bolt 13. A pair of cylindrical gears 4 and 6 with gear ratio 1: 3. The gears are closed with a cover 8, which is attached to the body with two screws 9. The small gear 6 is made integral with the leash 3, which enters the flywheel window. The small gear is pivotally mounted on the axis 5, and the large gear on the OSB 2. The large gear has protrusions 12, to which the handle 11 is attached with the help of the axis 7 and the stopper 10. The stopper 10 is spring-loaded and can be pulled when the handle 11 is moved to the non-working position. The handle is moved to this position for storage or transportation in order to avoid damage and reduce the size of the machine.

When the handle 11 is rotated, the leash 3 drives the flywheel of the machine. It is necessary to rotate the handle only from yourself. In this case, the flywheel and the main shaft of the machine will rotate in the desired direction (i.e., towards themselves). For ease of movement, it is necessary to periodically lubricate the axles of the large and small gears.

FOOT DRIVE

If the household sewing machine is equipped with a table, then they use a foot drive. To bring the machine into working condition it is necessary to connect the flywheel to the drive wheel 1 (Fig. 18) using a round leather belt 27 and a metal clip 28.

The foot drive consists of a pedal 17, movably mounted on two axles 16. The axles 16 are fixed with locknuts 24 on the brackets 15, which in turn are bolted to the bottom 14 of the table. Bracket 18 is attached to pedal 17 by means of screws. Sleeve 22 is inserted into the bracket hole and secured with lock nut 19 S-S). A ball end of the thrust 21 is inserted into the sleeve, which supports the thrust bearing 23 from below. To mitigate the impact and reduce knocking during operation, a leather washer 20 is laid between the thrust bearing 23 and the ball end of the thrust 21. The upper end of the thrust 21 is screwed into the head 26 and fixed with a lock nut 13 (section B-B). A separator 12 is also inserted into the head and balls 7 are placed, which are pressed with a round nut 6. Axle 9 is fixedly attached to the drive wheel 1 by means of a washer 10 and nut 11. For ease of rotation, the balls 7 are lubricated with a thick lubricant, which retains its properties for a long time and provides normal work this node.
Drive wheel 1 is pivotally mounted on the axis 5 by the central hole and is held by the head 4 (section A-A). Axis 5 is fixed in bracket 3 with bolt 2. Bracket 3 is attached to the side wall of the bedside table with three bolts 25. The foot drive frees the hands of the worker to perform the sewing operation. Working on a foot-operated machine requires a certain skill, although a significant mass and large diameter of the drive wheel contribute to the uniform rotation of the main shaft of the machine during the jerky movement of the pedal 17.

ELECTRIC DRIVE

The electric drive consists of a single-phase collector asynchronous motor and ballast rheostat. The electric motor can be built into the machine body or mounted. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. The built-in electric motor makes the machine more compact, better protected from external damage.

The outboard motor is easier to repair, replace the contact brushes or the drive belt. The most common domestic electric drive MSH-2, produced by the Serpukhov plant. Attached electric motor 7 (Fig. 19) is attached to bracket 1 with two brackets 6 by means of nuts 8. Bracket 1 is attached to the machine body with bolt 2 (as well as the bracket of the hand drive housing). Pulley 9, fixed on the motor shaft, clip belt 3 transmits rotation to the flywheel 5, fixed on the main shaft of the machine with a friction screw 4.
On fig. 20 shown circuit diagram electric drive. The electric motor D and the ballast rheostat RP are sources of spark discharges that cause radio interference. To suppress radio interference, the plastic housing of the electric motor is coated on the inside with a special composition that does not transmit radio interference to the air, and the rheostat is equipped with special capacitors C1 C2 C3 and inductive coils L1 and L2, which are a filter that prevents harmful current impulses from entering the household electrical network.
The ballast rheostat is located in a carbolite housing. It is made in the form of a foot pedal and serves to turn on the machine and regulate the speed of the main shaft during its operation.
The base 1 (Fig. 21) is connected to the cover 4 with four screws 27 through rubber bushings 26. The body 10 of the rheostat is attached to the base 1 with two screws 11 with nuts 12 and washers 13. The rheostat is insulated from the housing with asbestos washers. Two columns of carbon disks 33 0.4-0.5 mm thick are inserted into the openings of the body 10.

Technical characteristics of the MSH-2 electric drive

Two holders 8 are attached to the body 10 with screws 9, in the holes of which carbon contacts 7 are inserted.
Into the hole in the lid inside a button 6 is inserted, the fork of which covers the pin 5 of the pressure lever 3. The lever 3 is hinged on the axis 38 inserted into the holes of the rack 39. The rack 39 is attached to the base 1 with a screw 2.

The lower arm of the lever 3 is in contact with the pusher 37, which moves under the body of the rheostat 10. Under the action of the spring 15, the contact disk 16 rests against the plug located at the end of the pusher 37. The disk 16 is fixed on the rod 14. A sleeve 36 is put on the end of the rod 14, which under the action of a spring 15, it is pressed against the head of the rod 14. A contact plate 34 and a restrictive plate 35 are pressed onto the sleeve 36. Guide screws 32 are inserted into the hole of the rheostat body 10 on the right. Contact plates 19 are fixed at their ends. wires 29 coming from the capacitor 23.
The chokes 18 and 28 are also connected to the plates 19. The ends of the wires 25 are soldered to the capacitor 23, connecting the pedal to the electric motor. The chokes 18 and 28 inserted into the holes of the base 1 are covered by a bracket 22 attached to the base 1 by a screw 21. plug pedals into the mains, you need to press the button 6 with your foot. The lever 3 will turn clockwise and move the pusher 37, which, moving to the right, will press the contacts 7 through the contact plate 34. The disks 33 will tighten, and the electric motor circuit will close through the carbon rheostat. The more you press the button 6, the denser the disks 33 will be pressed, the resistance between them will decrease, and the speed of the main shaft of the machine will increase. When you press the button 6 to failure, the contact disk 16 will come into contact with the contact plates 19, and the current, bypassing the carbon disks, will flow through the motor winding. The motor shaft at this time will rotate at a frequency of 6000 rpm. When the button 6 is fully released, the spring 15 will open the contact plate 34 with contacts 7. The current will not be able to flow through the motor circuit and the motor will turn off.

For a long time I was interested in the topic of what will happen without electricity and fuel, or everything will collapse or we need to invent.
I found an article with interesting drawings and photographs of machines with a manual (foot) drive.
The machines are quite simple, it is not difficult to figure out and make it yourself.

Here is a partial reprint of the article:

The prehistory of the appearance of the first machine tools begins with the most ancient historical periods, when our ancestors, who possessed primitive tools-tools (mainly made of stone), drilled holes, for example, to put a hammer or ax on a stick. And even then a device arose, which was constructed approximately in the following uncomplicated way. From durable wood a rod was cut, one end of which was sharpened. With this pointed end, the rod rested against a recess in the stone filled with fine-grained sand. A bowstring was spirally twisted around the rod. When the bow was set in motion, the rod began to rotate (like a drill), which ensured the grinding of the recess with sand. As a result, a hole was drilled in the stone.

Paleolithic Hole Drill

A drawing of a lathe that has survived to this day
Greek master Theodore (VI century BC)

"Machine" with a manual beam drive, used in
ancient Egypt for turning

Working on an ancient Egyptian lathe

Lathe "machine" with a foot drive

At the beginning of the 15th century, the base of the lathe was wooden bench. On the bench-bed there were two grandmothers connected by a bar that served as a support for the cutter. This relieved the turner of the need to keep the cutter on weight. Machine parts were made of wood. Above the machine hung a flexible pole fixed on a pole. A rope was attached to the end of the pole. The rope was wrapped around the shaft, descended and tied to a wooden pedal. By pressing the pedal, the turner set the part in rotation. When the turner released the pedal, a flexible pole pulled the rope back. In this case, the workpiece rotated in reverse side, so that the turner had, as in bow machines, to alternately press and then move the cutter away.

Foot driven lathe
(from the book "The House of the 12 Mendel Brothers", 1400)

Manual rope lathe with flywheel
(from the book of Solomon de Caux, 1615)

From the pictures you can visualize what the simplest machines look like, and in which case they are not difficult to reproduce.

The tree is easy to process. Using simple tools, you can create things of amazing beauty and functionality.

Separately, it is worth noting products that have the shape of figures of rotation: tool handles, stair balusters, kitchen utensils. For their manufacture, an ax or a chisel is not enough, a lathe is needed.

Buying such a device is not a problem, that's just good machine it costs expensive. get so useful tool and it’s easy to save money, because you can make a wood lathe with your own hands.

Why is it needed and how it works

The lathe is designed for the manufacture of wooden products having a cylindrical or close to it shape. This is an indispensable item for renovations. country house With wooden stairs, carved porch, but not only.

With some experience, a turning tool will allow you not only to save on purchased decor elements, but also to earn money, because wooden products self made are highly valued.

Whether such a machine is necessary in a home workshop is up to the master himself.

Of course, if you need several handles for chisels, it’s easier to buy them, but if you want to make an all-wood staircase, then a set of balusters will result in very a large sum. Much cheaper to make them yourself. By the way, you don’t even have to spend money on buying equipment - a simple machine can be made in your own workshop using scrap materials.

The principle of operation of a wood lathe is not particularly complicated. The cylindrical workpiece is fixed along the axis of rotation. Torque is transmitted to it. Bringing various cutters or grinding tools to the workpiece, it is given the desired shape.

The main parts of the lathe:

• a bed on which all components are fixed;
• electric drive;
• headstock;
• tailstock;
• assistant.

For ease of use, schemes for changing the rotation speed are used. In professional equipment, this is a real gearbox, a gear system that allows you to adjust the speed over a very wide range. It is difficult, it is enough to equip a home-made wood lathe with a belt drive with several pulleys of different diameters.

Bed manufacturing

Bed - a frame that combines all parts of the machine into a single whole. The strength of the structure as a whole depends on its reliability, because best material for the frame - steel corner. You can also use profile pipe rectangular section.

First of all, outline the dimensions of the future unit. This indicator largely depends on what kind of products the machine is needed for. The average size home lathe beds - 80 cm. Using a grinder with a circle for metal, two identical blanks are cut off.

Enclosing wooden bars, squares with shelves up and in, stack on flat surface, their top faces should create a perfect plane. They maintain the same distance between them, about 5 cm. To orient them correctly, use a rail of appropriate thickness.

The longitudinal details of the base are fixed with clamps. Crossbars are made from the same square. There are three of them. Two are attached to the edges of the structure, the third, which is a support for the headstock, about twenty centimeters from the left edge. Exact dimensions depend on the type of motor used and the parameters of the pulley that could be found.

It remains to weld the frame into a single whole. The seam must be reliable and of high quality, you can cook by hand welding or use an automatic machine.

It is important to immediately decide how the machine will be used. Tabletop installation or stand-alone unit available. In the second option, it is necessary to provide legs. They can be made from the same square, or they can be cut from a bar of suitable thickness. The use of wooden legs will save on material, in addition, the machine can be made collapsible.

Machine motor

The basis of the drive of a lathe is the engine. When choosing this unit, it is important to pay attention to its main characteristic - power. For home machine suitable models with power from 1200 to 2000 watts. The type of connection is important, there are single-phase and three-phase motors.

In a small power bench lathe, you can use a motor from washing machine. It is unlikely to cope with the processing of a large workpiece, but it will help to make small decorative elements and kitchen utensils.

Direct drive or belt drive

There are several ways to transfer rotation to the workpiece. The simplest is direct drive. In this case, the workpiece is mounted directly on the motor shaft. Distinctive feature this design is simplicity. With all this, direct drive has a number of significant drawbacks.

First of all, a direct drive machine does not allow you to adjust the rotation speed, which is critical when working with hard material. It is also worth considering the load on the electric motor, especially when working with workpieces of large mass. No matter how well it is centered, it will not do without vibration. Motor bearings are not designed for longitudinal loading and will fail frequently.

To protect the engine from breakdowns and provide the ability to adjust the speed of rotation of the workpiece, it is worth considering a belt drive. In this case, the motor is located away from the axis of rotation of the workpiece, and the torque is transmitted through pulleys. Using blocks of pulleys of different diameters, it is easy to change the speed over a fairly wide range.

It is advisable to equip the machine for the home with pulleys with three or more streams, which will allow you to process wood of any species with equal success, and, if necessary, work with soft alloys.

Headstock and tailstock

The workpiece to be machined is clamped between two devices called a headstock and a tailstock. The rotation from the engine is transmitted to the front, therefore it is a more complex unit.

Structurally, the headstock of a homemade lathe is a metal U-shaped structure, between the side faces of which a shaft and one or more pulleys are mounted on bearings. The body of this unit can be made of thick steel; bolts of sufficient length are suitable for assembling it into a single whole.

An important part of the headstock, as well as the machine as a whole, is the shaft, a spindle with three or four pins designed to fix the workpiece. This shaft is passed through the bearing of one of the cheeks of the U-shaped housing, then pulleys are mounted on it. For their fastening, a key or a means for fixing cylindrical parts is used, the second cheek is put on last, the structure is securely tightened with bolts.

The task of the tailstock is to support a long workpiece, allowing it to rotate freely. You can buy a finished part of a factory machine, or you can use a powerful cartridge electric drill, mounted on a square of suitable length. A shaft with a pointed end is clamped into the cartridge itself.

The front and rear headstock are installed on the bed. It is important to understand that the axes of rotation of both shafts must completely match. Otherwise, a workpiece breakage, machine failure, and possibly an injury to the turner are likely.

Tool support: handpiece

Handpiece - a table on which the tool rests during operation. In principle, it can have any configuration, choose the master, the main criterion is convenience. One of the best options for a handrest is a thick steel trapezoidal turntable mounted on a platform that allows it to be moved in all directions. It will allow you to process any blanks, make products different size and forms.

The simplest handpiece for is a square welded to the base. The height of its upper edge should correspond to the level of the headstock axis.

Wood cutters

As cutting tool for lathe are used. You can buy such a tool in almost any hardware store. Going on sale individual incisors and whole sets.

If there is no store nearby, but there is an opportunity and desire, you can do essential tool himself. This will require metal cutting machine, as well as a blade of tool steel, it can be replaced with an old tool. A high quality turning tool can be obtained, for example, from an old Soviet file.

Mini machine for small jobs

Often there is a need to carve a few small wooden parts, in this case it is not at all necessary to make a full-fledged machine, you can get by with a mini-turning machine for wood. Its manufacture does not require much labor and does not take much time.

The device of such a machine is extremely simple. As an electrical component, an engine from an old tape recorder, powered by outdoor unit nutrition. The bed of the mini-machine will be a piece of board of the required length.

The engine must be fixed. Of course, a belt drive is not suitable for a small machine, the workpiece will have to be mounted on the motor shaft. The best tool for this is a faceplate. The drive housing is a U-shaped plate, in the center of which a hole for the shaft is drilled. The engine in the housing is mounted on the bed with the help of self-tapping screws.

The main part of the machine is ready, it remains only to make tailstock. Her body is made from timber. right size. A hole for the shaft is drilled in it exactly at the height of the engine; a dowel-nail of a suitable length is used as it. The headstock is attached with glue and a few self-tapping screws.

Using a power supply with adjustable output voltage, you can create a machine with a variable speed of rotation. It is convenient to regulate the speed using the foot control pedal. The design of this device can be very diverse, it all depends on the available parts.

Electric drill machine

Perhaps everyone home master there is such useful thing like an electric drill. It's really universal tool, they are drilled, the solution is mixed, the surfaces are cleaned. Not surprisingly, many people have the idea of ​​using a drill motor to make a small wood lathe.

It is not difficult. By by and large it is enough to fix the drill on the frame, and install the tailstock opposite it, it must be movable, which will allow you to adjust the working distance.

There are many options for manufacturing such a lathe, they differ in complexity, the materials used. In the very simple case the machine is a board or a piece of thick plywood, at one end of which there is an emphasis for a drill with a lock, at the other - a rear beam: a bar with a shaft inside. As a shaft, you can use a sharpened screw or dowel of a suitable diameter.

If you have the skills to work with metal, you can create a machine of just the same professional level. Using it, it is easy to produce products of the highest class. If the machine is needed on a case-by-case basis, the best option- drill machine. If necessary, you can grind the required part, and if you need a drill, it can also be used for its intended purpose.

The foot sewing machine in our time is an attribute of the last century. It is already simply impossible to buy a new foot sewing machine in a store, unless it is used according to an ad. However, foot versions of the drive, such brands as Podolsk, the Singer sewing machine are still available to many.
Not only vintage cars of the century before last have a foot drive. Such a drive is sometimes found in the "cabinet" model of the Chaika or Podolsk 142 sewing machine, the Veritas sewing machine and others. Despite the fact that they were inherited from grandmothers, they have been successfully used to this day. And often this is justified, since these machines surpass many models of modern household sewing machines in terms of reliability. And the Veritas sewing machine (GDR) also has a rotating shuttle and the quality of its stitching is almost flawless.

There is a category of antique lovers who use antique Sewing machines foot-operated as a design element for home furnishing in retro style. In any case, it is necessary that the foot-operated sewing machine is in good working order.
Since the instructions for installing and repairing a foot drive are usually lost a long time ago, we offer you some simple recommendations of our own. In them, you will learn how to adjust and repair the foot drive with your own hands.

1. Screws - foot drive bushings have locknuts

The foot machine drive device only at first glance seems complicated. If you disassemble the drive, you will see that all fastenings of rubbing nodes are regulated by cone-shaped screws, and they are tightened with a conventional screwdriver. In order to prevent the bushings from being arbitrarily unscrewed during operation of the foot drive, a lock nut is additionally placed on them. The locknut is tightened and loosened with an open end wrench.

Start repairing the foot drive by unscrewing these screws one at a time completely, first loosening the lock nut with an open-end wrench. True, it is sometimes quite difficult to weaken it. Over the years, from oil and dust, they have "become stuck" to the frame so that they cannot be unscrewed without a hex wrench.

2. Foot sewing machine. Knot adjustment

After all the screws (alternately) are lubricated, the clearances of the foot drive attachment points should be adjusted. The tighter the cone is clamped, the less knock the foot drive will make. Fully (up to the stop) to tighten them it is impossible. Excessive tightening is the cause of the hard drive of the drive, but it is also impossible to loosen it too much, otherwise the drive will knock during operation. By the way, the foot machine often knocks for another reason, but more on that below.
To fine-tune the tightening of the screws, you must first completely, all the way, tighten the screws on both sides (within reasonable limits), and then loosen them by half a turn or a little more.

After the repair and adjustment of all attachment points, check how the foot drive works with the machine. If the noise has noticeably decreased, then you do not have to disassemble another node, which is located in the center of the flywheel, on which the belt is put on. This is the only foot drive joint that has a bearing, and this bearing serves as the axis of rotation of the flywheel.

This assembly is disassembled quite simply, you just need to be prepared for the fact that balls will fall out of it, or rather the remnants of the bearing. If the bearing has survived intact, then it’s better not to remove it at all, just lubricate it with plenty of thick grease and adjust the clearance. Set the gap so that the wheel is barely noticeable, but "dangles", otherwise a tight move will appear and in a few minutes the legs will get tired like after the simulator. Again, do some footwork with the machine. If the drive turns hard, loosen the wheel screw a little.
Ideally, the foot machine should not make metallic knocks and rattle during operation. Noise should be only from the working parts of the sewing machine itself, nothing more.

4. Repair foot drive if there is no new bearing

When foot drive adjusted correctly, it is a pleasure to work on a typewriter, like good asphalt for a cyclist. Unfortunately, most often it is required to replace the bearing for this, but there is nowhere to get it, since there is nowhere to buy it. If you really need the foot drive to be in perfect condition, then it’s easier to buy the same old, but working foot machine.

You can restore the operation of this node yourself, but only in a primitive way. For example, you can wrap this knot abundantly with threads, lubricating them with grease, or make and put a nylon bushing. The choice depends on your imagination and capabilities, it is only important that the wheel rotates without effort and distortion. It is clear that wound threads are a parody of repairs and will not last long, but as a temporary solution to finish some thing, it is quite suitable.

To prevent the foot machine from staggering, check the fastening of the screws connecting the parts of the bed. The bed mounting screws are tightened with a powerful large screwdriver, which any motorist has in the kit, as well as a hex wrench for lock nuts.

5. Foot drive belt is made of rawhide

One of the components of the foot drive is the drive belt. From age and constant use, it is torn at the junction. The torn section is cut off, slightly shortening the belt, and connected again. In the end, the length of the belt is simply not enough and it needs to be changed.

There are a lot of options for "Kulibin" solutions for replacing the belt. From a clothesline to an old leather belt cut into strips. The last option is closest to the truth, because the belt for the foot drive is caught from a special rawhide.

You can only replace the belt with a belt and nothing more. Luckily, it can be bought at sewing parts stores, including "stuff" markets. True, it is not cheap, sometimes it is more profitable to buy a used electric drive for a sewing machine and install it instead of a belt.

It is best to connect a torn belt with an ordinary paper clip. Unfold the clip completely and make punctures with an awl along the edge of the belt at a distance of 0.5-0.8 mm. Insert the staple from the paper clip into the holes and connect the ends of the wire in one of the ways. You can "bite off" the extra sections and bend towards each other, or you can simply twist them with pliers, and then tighten the twist to the belt.

Foot-operated sewing machines are at least a few decades old. Of course, during this time, the machine could have many malfunctions. There is no compensation spring in the tensioner, many fasteners have loosened, and a knock has appeared. The needle bar is often moved up, and therefore there are gaps in the stitching. The bobbin case plate is faulty, the foot drive is faulty, etc. There are many articles on our website that will help you in such cases.

The easiest way to "repair" the foot drive is to install an electric drive on the machine. Almost all cars have threaded connection to mount a hand drive that can be used to mount an electric motor. True, the fastening screw in diameter is not always suitable.

Podolsk machines, making one single line, may be for many more years "in use". These simple and obsolete sewing machines have one unique quality - reliability. There is simply nothing to break in such a machine, unless the foot drive fails and it will rattle throughout the house. All parts of the sewing machine PMZ, Singer are made of metal and they can withstand any load, not in comparison with modern "seamstresses" for several thousand rubles.

The Seagull sewing machine sometimes also has a foot drive, this is the so-called "cabinet" model of the Seagull. She has a beautiful polished table, with a hinged lid. In such a table there is a lot of space to make several shelves instead of a foot drive, and to buy an electric drive for a typewriter. Almost any electric drive complete with a mount is suitable for this machine. Installing it is quite easy, it is screwed with just one screw.

Foot drive and hand drive are the most weak spots those old machines. They are usually the ones who cause the most trouble. Both the hand and foot drive can be repaired by yourself if you read these articles on our website.