Pruning pears in spring: patterns and rules. Proper pruning of pears is the key to plant health and high yield. Autumn pruning of pears diagram

Surely on yours summer cottage you grow not only garden crops— Fruit trees also grow well and bear fruit every year. The pear occupies an honorable place in the list of fruit trees. This beauty is valued not only for its delicate pulp, excellent taste and special aroma, but also has dietary properties. Pear will help get rid of digestive problems and normalize kidney function. The vitamins and microelements found in the sweet fruit will be an excellent vitamin supplement. Is it so difficult to grow a pear on your own? personal plot? Gardeners say that the tree is unpretentious and gives good harvest fruits if you prune the pear in time in the spring.

It is simply necessary to care for a tree: timely pruning, watering, fertilizing and grafting - all these activities will help you in the future to have a good harvest, even from one tree. Most inexperienced and novice gardeners believe that pear trees can be pruned according to the rules for pruning apple trees. In general, the operating principle is the same, but there are some differences.

About the time

Why is it necessary to prune a tree? spring period? Many summer residents ask this question. The answer is simple: if you cut off the branches of a pear in the fall, then with the onset of cold weather the tree may freeze and even die. There are certain rules for pruning pear trees in the autumn, but not for the purpose of forming the crown of the tree, but to get rid of damaged and dry branches.

It is important to have time before the moment when the buds begin to bloom on the tree; in this case, you can form the crown of the plant so that in the future the tree will be compact. But this is not the only goal that needs to be fulfilled - the pear begins to bear fruit well if the plant receives a lot of light and air, and each branch can withstand the load of filling fruits.

You cannot prune a pear tree in the summer, so as not to deprive the tree of nutrition, because along with the extra branches, the leaves will also be cut off.

It is best to start pruning at a young age and, if possible, do this manipulation every year to form a strong crown. Annual plant pruning is not needed, since the pear does not yet need to form an open crown, the plant is only gaining strength.

Pruning a young pear in spring

Saplings that have reached the age of 2 years can already be pruned.

Rules for pruning young trees:

you need to measure the distance from the ground level (half a meter) and cut the branch;
the main or central trunk needs to be shortened by 1/4;
neighboring branches can be cut not at the same distance, but by forming a “ring” from them;
leave 4 side branches, which are the base of the trunk, the rest can be cut off;
if you see that an ovary has formed on the shoots, then these branches need to be tilted down and left in a “horizontal” position;
all other branches need to be bent and tied with a rope to the trunk.

A year later, with the onset of spring, it is necessary to prune the pear again, only now you need to pay attention to the second-order shoots and cut the branches so that they do not cover or interfere with the growth of the main central shoots.

If new branches have grown inside the crown and they interfere with normal growth and light penetration, they must also be removed.

Pruning pears in spring diagram:

There is nothing difficult in doing this work, the main thing is to prepare necessary tool and choose the right time. To form the correct crown of a tree, you will need special garden shears - young branches lend themselves well to trimming with this tool.

It is advisable for every novice summer resident to have his own set of tools: you will need a pruning shears and garden shears for cutting young and dry branches, as well as a garden saw and lopper for working with adult plants.

In order for the tool to cope with the assigned tasks, it is necessary to keep the cutting part clean, promptly free it from dust and dirt, and sharpen it in a timely manner. If the blade is dull, the cut will be unsightly and torn - this not only makes the work more difficult, but also harms the tree.

Choosing the weather in order to prepare a tree is one of the basic rules, following which you can achieve good results. If the timing is poorly chosen, then by pruning the pear branches, the plant may die or be damaged with the onset of severe frosts.

Before you start forming a pear crown in the spring, you need to wait until the weather is stable. When the average daily air temperature begins to rise every day, it’s time to get to work.

Every year you will have to devote less and less time to pruning the plant, because the growth of young shoots will be slowed down. To renew the tree and start the rejuvenation processes, once every 2-4 years you need to prune the inside of the crown, shortening the shoots in a circle. You can remove damaged and weak branches. Experienced gardeners It is recommended not to remove the branches, leaving stumps - it is best to use a saw and cut the branch down to the base, under the ring.

This part of the work should be done as carefully as possible so as not to harm the young tree. Deep wound It takes a long time for the pear to heal, which means all the plant’s energy will go only to this, and we need the pear to develop normally and bear fruit. If you cut a thick branch, then you need to cover the cut area with garden varnish or use special paint and paint over the wound.

What else needs to be taken into account when pruning a young pear in spring? Perhaps the only thing is that after you have completed the work, it is not recommended to help the tree recover after cutting down the branches, so you should not add nitrogen supplements, since all efforts will be aimed at quickly dealing with the fresh wound. By the way, it is best to make the cut even to prevent the bark from lifting.

How to prune a young pear in the spring, you can watch this video:

Rules for pruning an adult plant

As we have already found out, pear trees need to be trimmed only in the spring; in the fall, you can perform sanitary cleaning and in the second half of September, free the tree from damaged and dry branches. Cut branches should be burned or taken away from the garden area.

Annual shoots can be shortened slightly (by only 1/3 of the total length) to prepare the pear for the new season. Just remember to leave a few young buds at the bottom so that new branches can form on them.

At this point, autumn pruning is completed, and now you can familiarize yourself with the rules for preparing an adult tree for the new season. Due to inexperience, many summer residents are often afraid to cut off an extra branch from a tree so as not to cause harm and let the process take its course. The pear grows greatly, it is very difficult to harvest, and every year the fruits become less and less.

How to trim correctly:

The first to be removed are the shoots extending from the trunk. The cutting angle should be 90°. After completing this work, you can begin to restore order to the shoots located parallel to the main trunk, which grow upward.
According to the rules of pruning, it is necessary to trim off excess branches so that there are no stumps. But that’s not all - do not grab extra branches, otherwise the deep cut will take a long time to heal.
If the branch exceeds the diameter of 3 cm, then you first need to saw it a little from the bottom, and then saw it from the top. This way, the tree bark will remain intact (if you cut only from the top, the branch will fall under its weight and the bark will be damaged), and you will get the job done faster.
We treat the cut areas with garden varnish. If this is not done, the tree secretes sap, becomes weak, and the sap also attracts insects.
It is impossible to apply fertilizer immediately after pruning the branches, since the tree receives all the necessary nutrients from the powerful root system.
Do not rush to prune too early, wait until the weather is warm to avoid harming the fruit tree.

You can see how to prune a pear in spring in this diagram, additional information you will find in the video.

When forming the crown of an adult tree, it is necessary to remove excess mass annually so that the tree receives enough air and light. When this part of the work is completed, you can begin to trim the young branches growing parallel to the trunk. In general, the principle of pruning a young tree and an adult one is similar. Depending on the number of young shoots, it is necessary to prune them by 1/3 so that the new branch begins to grow and form faster.

The first harvest of pears, depending on the variety, can be obtained in the 3rd year, but there is also a tree variety that begins to bear fruit only in the 12th year of life. Can you imagine how long gardeners have to wait to evaluate the result of their painstaking work?

To bring the fruiting time closer, it is necessary to thin out the crown, then the pear branches will begin to receive more air and reach towards the light source. This way the tree will “switch” to fruiting and will not direct all its energy to the growth of young shoots. To achieve this, you can pinch the growth point on a young shoot, and therefore speed up the formation of new fruits. How to cope with this work and prune a pear in the spring, watch the video:

Getting to know the types of pruning

Keeping your garden and vegetable garden in order is not easy; you need to constantly pay attention to one plant and then another. As soon as the pests have been controlled, it’s time to replant the strawberries or start pruning the trees. In this matter you need not just wield garden tool, but also adhere to a certain technique. Then the work will be completed faster, and there will be much less hassle with the tree in the future.

Rules for pear pruning:

We form the crown of the tree in the first pruning, based on the diagram.
The next cut is a control cut. After the growing season, it is necessary to remove all affected and dry branches.
We keep the crown in order - in the middle and end of March it’s time to start working and cut off large branches so as not to overload the tree with fruits.

Pruning an old pear

It is not always possible to plant young Orchard to keep it in order. What if you got a plot with old fruit trees? Get rid of many popular varieties You don’t want fruit trees, so you can solve the problem differently and prune the old tree. This procedure is quite troublesome and serious, so you need to prepare a tool, a ladder, a rope and invite an assistant. Together it will be easier for you to cope with the unloading of an adult tree.

First of all you need to remove top part crowns, not sparing young shoots. After all, the pear is considered a long-liver in the garden, so why do we need just an old tree that produces small fruits? After all, our task is to improve their quality and increase productivity. Therefore, an old tree can even be cut in half! Don’t be afraid to spoil it, the pear will withstand rejuvenation and will soon restore fruiting.

After trimming the trunk from above, it’s time to start trimming the branches from the bottom - at the bottom you can leave 2 rows of thick branches (“skeleton” - up to 7 pcs.). Maintain a distance of 1 m between each tier of branches. If this is not possible, then partially cut off the middle branches, leaving only those that are perpendicular to the main trunk.

Don’t forget to thin out the crown, ridding the old tree of shoots located or crossed inside. Don’t be afraid to get rid of thick trunks, they will no longer benefit the tree.

If the height of the tree is small (within 4-5 m), then it is easier to harvest, since the upper branches will bend down under the weight of the ripened fruits. The result of your work can be assessed in a year, when the plant recovers from pruning and produces many large, juicy and fragrant fruits.

Pruning a pear tree is often compared to that of an apple tree, but there are several significant differences, both in the shape of the tree itself, its preferences, and its ability to withstand injury and change. environment. For example, pruning a young pear tree is a more delicate task. This kind fruit trees It grows more slowly than an apple tree and does not like such strong shortening of shoots. At the same time, pruning pear trees pursues the same goals as other fruit crops, namely, the formation of a crown and the creation of a sufficiently stable and strong skeleton to withstand the load of fruit. Also, proper pruning of the pear should improve the illumination of the crown, making it convenient for spraying and harvesting. To do this, it is necessary to artificially create favorable conditions so that each skeletal branch is covered with several fruiting branches.

Pear trees must be cared for and pruned from the moment of planting and throughout their life, until they dry out. It’s worth saying right away that there is no universal scheme for caring for a garden, and throughout the life of one fruit planting, the gardener will have to solve many different problems, focusing on his desires, the chosen variety of fruit, the condition of the soil and climatic features region.

When to prune pear trees, timing, time?

Even novice gardeners know that there are certain periods for pruning a pear, when certain manipulations should be performed with the tree to obtain the best result, be it the formation of the crown of a young tree or the rejuvenation of old fruit plantings. Just a mention that the pear pruning time is somewhat relative concept, and largely depends on the climate zone, the weather forecast for the coming days, expected weather changes in the next month and the experience of the gardener, usually leads people into a stupor, especially those who have just decided to devote themselves to the garden. For example, having received the question “When can you prune a pear in the spring?” a fairly comprehensive answer: “from February to May”, an amateur gardener cannot bear any useful information. It would be easier for such people to know what, when and how much can be done to final result allowed me to be proud of the work done. Therefore, let’s try to understand in more detail when and what kind of care is needed for both old and young fruit trees. What exceptions might there be?

Pruning a pear tree in spring is the most important part of caring for fruit plantings, and therefore the most difficult. The fact is that the pear is a light-loving plant, and if some part of its crown is heavily shaded, then flower buds will not appear there. In addition, failure to trim or wrong scheme actions will lead to the fact that the tree will become tall, but poor in yield.

To prevent this from happening, the first pear pruning in the spring is done on seedlings starting from one year of age, as soon as their height exceeds half a meter from the ground. This removal of the top will stimulate the growth of the lower branches, which means that the crown will be formed from the lower branches. Next year, using a similar technology, it will be necessary to plan a second tier of skeletal branches.

It is better to start all work with the orchard in the spring so that frosts no longer threaten the plants, but the juice has not yet begun to circulate through the branches. If everything is done correctly, the pear will not even notice the wounds inflicted on it during the formation of the crown, and nutrients will not be wasted on branches that need to be removed. The important thing is that if the gardener is in a hurry and severe frosts hit after pruning, the tree may die. It is the confluence of such factors that requires the gardener to carry out all the basic procedures for removing or forming fruit plantings in the spring. Therefore, before removing excess branches, you need to wait for a stable increase in air temperature above -5°C and check the forecast for the coming week.

Pruning of a young pear in the fall is carried out annually except for the year in which the tree was planted. It's connected with at a slow pace growth and poor tolerance to frost.

For older plantings, the timing of care procedures depends on the variety and climate zone of the garden. So, early varieties, growing in middle lane, it will be possible to prune in the second half of August until mid-September. During this period, branches damaged during the fruiting period, as well as those that create a thickening of the crown, must be removed. The same applies to diseased branches.

Proper pruning pear cultivation in the fall, in addition to removing excess branches, should include shortening annual shoots. However, this should be done without fanaticism, no more than 1/3 of the length. If everything was done correctly, then in the spring you can expect the appearance of new shoots.

When pruning pears, you should try to create optimal conditions so that new young shoots continue the pyramidal shape of the crown, but at the same time the crown itself does not expand much. Otherwise, in harvest season Horizontally sprouting branches may break off.

Winter pruning has one significant advantage over similar operations in other seasons, namely: due to the fact that the plant is in a state of maximum dormancy, all wounds inflicted on it will cause minimal damage. Pruning old trees in winter has worked especially well, since the cold and lack of sap make the wood more pliable for sawing, and the cut is more uniform. With some experience working with pruning shears and a hacksaw, the likelihood of bark scoring is reduced to almost zero.

They usually start pruning pears in winter in February, when the average air temperature, even at night, is above -15°C. Winter care In the garden, you should start with the most mature and fruit-bearing trees, since their fruit buds will awaken earlier than deciduous ones. If the orchard consists of various types plants, then the removal of broken and diseased branches begins with apple trees, and only then moves on to pears as a less frost-resistant crop. Having finished with the diseased branches and those broken under the weight of snow, the gardener can move on to working on the formation of a columnar pear tree by pruning, which is the most common work pattern. Indeed, in the complete absence of leaves on the branches, it is possible to more easily and accurately assess the density of the crown and the presence of competing shoots.

To ensure that the wound heals quickly and does not freeze in winter, it is very important to use the cleanest and sharpest possible instrument. After removing the branches, the gardener needs to carefully treat the cuts with garden varnish.

Summer pruning of pear

Summer pruning of pears is carried out in the presence of strongly growing shoots. In this case, removing part of the shoots will increase the flow nutrients to the fruits. We should also not forget that this tree is a light-loving tree and, if necessary, by thinning the crown, the gardener will provide better illumination to the fruits and uniform ripening. If the fruits get enough sunlight, then this will enhance their taste, making the pears more aromatic, soft and juicy, which is fully consistent with this variety.

It is immediately worth noting that, unlike spring and autumn pruning, work on removing parts or entire branches in winter and summer is carried out only in case of extensive experience and emergency. That is, summer pruning in most cases it should represent a minor cosmetic intervention, while the autumn one can be called a major redevelopment.

So in the summer they do not engage in crown formation, with the exception of removing vertical tops and trimming the central conductor in order to slow down too much active growth. All other manipulations are aimed at removing broken and diseased branches, as well as pruning those that may break off under the weight of the shoots.

After summer pruning, the wounds are allowed to dry for 1 day, and the next day they are covered with a decoction or oil paint.

Improper pruning of old pears by amateur gardeners is one of the main reasons for the death of old fruit trees. However, very often, rejuvenating pruning of a pear is necessary and the only way to return the plant to fruiting, health and optimal shape for processing and harvesting. The latter is most relevant if the garden has passed from one owner to another, and the tree has not previously been subjected to any crown formation schemes, and therefore, due to its specificity, has grown large, but bears little fruit.

If there is such a need, then pruning the old pear begins by shortening it. But if the tree was subjected to systematic proper care and its height corresponds to optimal indicators for harvesting, then the gardener needs to begin the rejuvenation process by thinning the crown. This is done at the end of winter - beginning of spring before the plant wakes up and buds and leaves begin to form on it. First of all, broken, dry, frozen and non-fruit-bearing stems are removed. This will open the center of the crown to sunlight and show the amount of work remaining. Then they begin to shorten the shoots, remove shoots of competitors, shoots growing parallel to the trunk or having too sharp corners. The remaining young shoots can be shortened slightly (by 1/4 of the length), and then the wounds can be treated with a decoction.

The correct technique for rejuvenating a pear can save an old tree, which, due to the lack of fruits, was already about to be written off for cutting down. It all depends on the experience of the gardener, who must carry out all the necessary manipulations after the winter cold, but before the formation of buds. You should also be prepared for the fact that in the process of rejuvenating an old pear, its yield will temporarily decrease, and the period of optimizing the height of the plant without the risk of its death may take several years.

Pruning a young pear

The first pruning of a pear seedling occurs immediately after planting and performs two tasks at once:

since the root system is damaged during transplantation, plant nutrition can be facilitated by shortening;
the first tab of the pear trimming scheme, shortening the conductor.

Pruning of pear seedlings in the fall in the year of planting is not carried out, since there is no such need. If everything is done correctly in the first year, then the young tree will then form its crown quite well and naturally, requiring, basically, only regular pruning of last year’s shoots and the formation of tiers of skeletal branches. When pruning a young pear, the guide should protrude above the trimmed shoots, which will promote the natural pyramidal shape of the crown.

Young trees older than 1 year are pruned at least twice a year, which increases branching, strengthens the fruit branches of the lower part of the annual growths and promotes the formation of semi-skeletal branches that bear fruit branches. To do this, every spring the annual growths are shortened by ¼ of the length. Then the gardener needs to turn his attention to the tops. Tops form on young pears very often, especially after winter, when even slight freezing of the skeletal branches leads to the growth of tops. Tops can very quickly develop into strong branches, thereby thickening the crown, so in the spring the gardener needs to turn them into semi-skeletal and overgrown branches. And those that are too powerful and grow vertically in the shady parts of the crown should be cut out entirely. If the winter was too cold and the wood was severely frozen above the appearance of the tops and leaves did not grow well on the pear, then shoots would not develop on the edges of the skeletal branches, only rosettes of leaves. In this case, everything that is higher than the tops is cut off, as well as part of the tops. The second part turns into overgrowing branches, thereby restoring part of the crown.

The second tier of young pears is laid only in the fourth year of life. After the fifth year of life, there will be a decrease in annual growth, so shortening will need to be done more moderately.

Pruning columnar pears

Pears of columnar varieties require special attention at all stages. This swings and trimmings of columnar pears. The technology for pruning these trees is determined by their characteristics. In order to maintain the shape of the crown and increase yield, all side shoots should be completely removed.

The Sovereign company is always ready to help and make your garden well-groomed, productive and aesthetically pleasing. We will promptly and correctly perform any type of pruning of ornamental and fruit trees and shrubs, treat them and carry out disease prevention. Late autumn Our specialists will competently carry out sanitary pruning of pears, the tree will be fully prepared for winter. We are ready to help our clients quickly, efficiently, and taking into account all requirements.

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If you are concerned pruning pears, forming a crown and caring for them in the spring - the scheme of these processes is quite simple. You just have to delve a little deeper into questions asked and everything will work out for you. The photos and videos in the article below will help you with this!

If you want to get a good harvest from your tree, make sure that it is well developed and well cared for. Despite the great differences of opinion, one thing can be said for sure - in the summer it is better not to touch or prune the pear tree; summer pruning can only harm, not provide proper care. Along with the extra branches, you will also destroy some of the leaves, as a result of which the tree will not receive required quantity juice, will not be nourished and develop. It is best to carry out pears when planting, as well as in early spring, more details can be seen in the video.

Trim when planting

Many gardeners are afraid to prune pears; they are afraid of doing something wrong and ruining the tree. This is a vain fear, because without pruning the tree begins to age very early, grows greatly, and the quality of the harvest decreases.

In order to form the crown of a pear, it is necessary to create a stable and durable skeleton that can withstand a large load of fruit. The crown should be well lit, and the skeletal branches should be covered with fruit. Take care to create a crown that will be convenient to trim and collect fruits from.

After landing

Immediately after planting a tree, it is necessary to restore the broken correlation between the above-ground part and the roots; for this purpose, pruning is carried out, as well as subsequent care. If you trim the branches too much, the tree will begin to grow too quickly, which will cause significant damage to the formation of the crown itself. It is best not to shorten the branches, but to thin them out.

In the first year, the pear grows very slowly, because of this it practically does not need spring filing and special care. During the formation of the crown skeleton, that is, the growth of the vegetative parts, the branches are pruned minimally, only giving the tree its shape. You can limit yourself to just bending the extra branches; they can be pulled with twine to the nail at the base of the trunk. This will significantly help speed up fruiting. By the way, it is recommended to trim branches to one quarter of the length.

Prune in spring

After the severe frosts have passed, the time comes when spring pruning pears This is done so that your tree does not grow, while bringing a minimum of harvest. If in the first years of development of the pear it was cared for properly, then special further care you won't need it. Spring - best time To do this, start before the buds swell. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the tree based on foliage and growth. Each fruit requires about 50 leaves for its development; they mainly accumulate on growths. At the top, growth should reach 100 cm, this will indicate the normal development of the tree. In the middle part of the crown, growth should reach 50 cm, but in the lower part - 20-30.

If the tree is old, you need to improve its quality and rejuvenate it in the spring. To do this, it is worth shortening the branches, thinning and reducing the crown, and cutting out weak fruits.

Main stages of work

First of all, it is necessary to eliminate all shoots that extend at an acute angle from the trunk. You also need to remove non-fruiting (top) shoots, as well as those that grow parallel to the trunk. Work on the shoots that head towards the center of the crown.

Make the trunk shorter

Treat all cuts with a special product.

It is necessary to shorten the entire young growth by about a third.

Fruit buds should not be cut; fruits and flowers will form on them.

When pruning, make sure that no stumps remain. There should only be an influx of branches left.

To remove large branches, make several cuts, one from below, very deep, and the second from above. This will avoid damage to the bark if the branch suddenly breaks under its own weight.

If the branch is damaged in some way, you need to remove the damaged parts, clean everything thoroughly and thoroughly treat the fresh “wound”.

After “ennobling” the tree does not need additional feeding; it will have enough own strength to restore work after losing its parts.

Video

In this video you can more clearly understand how pears are pruned.

Pear, by its nature, is one of the light-loving plants. For the development of buds and good fruiting, it is necessary to provide the tree with good lighting.

If all conditions are met, the crown of the plant grows quickly, so pruning is necessary in spring and autumn.

In order for the procedure to give the desired results and be painless for the plant, you need to choose the right time for the procedure.

Incorrect timing can lead not only to a decrease in yield and an unsightly aesthetic appearance, but also to death. So, processing of branches can be done in spring and autumn, let's take a closer look at each type.

Spring

The best time for pruning is early spring (March - April). The temperature outside should be above zero.

But you shouldn’t wait until the buds swell and the period of juice movement begins. The pear loves light very much, so in the process you need to ensure that the sun's rays and heat are evenly distributed over all areas of the tree.

The main activities should take place in stages:

formative pruning - is carried out to form the correct crown, both in young trees and in trees that have been bearing fruit for several years;
sanitary – for removing dry branches and those infected with various diseases;
supporting - used to shorten thicker branches, which saves from unnecessary congestion during fruit ripening.

Note: When cutting thick branches, be careful. First cut the branch from the bottom, then from the top. After this, you can delete the entire branch. This will prevent the tree bark from tearing.

Experienced gardeners can process in two ways:

shortening shoots - shorten the upper part of branches and shoots. This helps the side shoots below the cutting level to awaken faster, creating less shadow;
thinning - removing an excess branch to the very base, gives more light to the side shoots. When cutting, it is important that no stump remains.

Gardener's advice: When pruning in spring, you should not fertilize the trees.

To quickly heal wounds, you need to treat the cut areas with paint based on drying oil or.

Autumn

Considered sanitary. It is produced at above-zero temperatures, but when the leaves have already fallen from the trees.

If frosts unexpectedly hit, or warm weather was missed, then pruning should be postponed until spring. Because the wounds do not heal, the branches may freeze and lead to death.

Older plants are cut off for the purpose of rejuvenation and healing.

If the tree grows quickly upward, you can shorten the crown - this will give it additional strength for better branching and the growth of new buds. But do not forget about the possibility of disrupting the pyramidal structure of the crown.

Note: Incorrectly carried out pruning will not bring any benefit.

When processing old pears, it is often necessary to remove not only old branches, but also cut out entire trees that have no longer bear fruit. Such measures allow you to add a lot of light, and the garden becomes cleaner.

After the procedures, be sure to treat the cut areas by special means: on dry and old branches immediately, and on young branches a day later. First, branches located perpendicular to the trunk are pruned, then those growing along the trunk, and branches growing inward are necessarily removed.

If timely treatment is not carried out, this will negatively affect the condition of the tree. Without removing unnecessary old branches, the growth of young ones is hampered, the crown becomes dense and will lead to a decrease in yield.