Fire Safety Encyclopedia

How to organize the drain of water from the bath. Drainage and drainage of water from a bath - how to lay a drain pipe under floors and make a drainage Well for draining water from a bath

Today, baths are being built not only in villages, but also in summer cottages, in cottage settlements. However, before starting construction, it is necessary to determine how to drain the water from the bath. From time immemorial, the discharge was carried out directly under the structure, where it went into the ground. But then there was no such density of population and special unsanitary standards, which today are not only stupid, but also unsafe to ignore.

In order to avoid unnecessary difficulties with waterlogging your site or disputes with sanitary and epidemiological supervision, we will consider how water will be removed from it, at the lowest cost and maximum comfort for others.

Water drainage methods

So how can you organize a device for draining water from a bath?

The most popular and widely used options are:

  • draining water directly under the bath;
  • drainage into the general sewage system;
  • arrangement for;
  • uniform distribution of water over the site using drainage pipes.

Advice. You need to ask yourself how to drain water in a bathhouse even at the planning stage, and if you decide to drain moisture outside the building (into a septic tank, into the sewer), then you need to take this into account when laying the foundation.
Sleeves are laid in the strip base, through which the branch pipes will pass.

Draining under the foundation

The method with a drain pit is used if you do not visit the steam room very often and in an amount of no more than 1-3 people. In this case, directly under the floor of the used water.

For its better absorption, the walls are not lined with solid masonry, but in a checkerboard pattern, which will allow moisture to leave not only through the bottom of the pit, but also to the sides. Unfortunately, this method has a significant drawback: in winter, water can freeze and damage the foundation.

Use of the central sewerage system

If there is an opportunity on the site or near it to cut the pipe into the centralized sewage system, this option is most preferable. You only need to bring or connect to the sewer pipe, and the question of how to organize the drainage of water will never bother you anymore.

But if there is no sewer pipe next to your site, you will have to solve this problem yourself, since it is not difficult to do it yourself, even alone.

Septic tank and filtration

This system of draining water in a bath and its purification is deservedly considered the most expensive, but at the same time it allows not only to organize the drainage of water in a bath in a quality manner, but also to use this water for agricultural purposes.

To do this, you need to equip septic tanks in which the water is purified, and then it flows through the pipe to the collector, from where it is used for irrigation. But the disadvantage of such a system is its price, which includes the regular replacement of filters and the addition of microorganisms that take over the purification process.

Drain pit

This is the most used method for draining not only used water, but also sewage from a private house. It is not at all difficult to make it, and the following instruction will tell you how to do it correctly.

Choosing the location and arrangement of the pit

According to the rules and regulations of the location of the cesspool, it should be no closer than 12 meters from the living quarters. This rule should be taken as a basis and when organizing the removal of moisture from the washing room. When choosing the type of pit, you must consider whether you will regularly clean it, or provide for the absorption of moisture into the soil. The second option is preferable in view of the fact that it requires less costs not only during construction, but also during operation..

However, you should take into account that a pit without a bottom can only be built if there is no surface groundwater and no more than 1 cubic meter of water per day is removed.

Otherwise, the bottom and walls of the cesspool must be completely isolated from the ground. This is achieved by laying out the walls with bricks and concreting the bottom of the pit.

Since the concepts of a bath and water drain are inseparable, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the future waste receptacle.

The most optimal sizes are as follows:

  • length not less than 1.5m and not more than 3m;
  • width from 2m to 3m;
  • depth from 1.5m to 3m.

Such dimensions will provide you with a sufficient volume of the structure for the smooth functioning of your bath, even with frequent visits.

Operating procedure

  1. You need to start by digging a pit. This can be done manually, but if there is an opportunity to attract an excavator, be sure to use it.

Tip: Earthwork is the hardest kind of work, and you will soon begin to understand this, deciding to take up the shovel yourself.
With the help of an excavator, for a small fee, in half an hour you will have a foundation pit of the required volume on your site.

  1. The walls and bottom of the pit need to be leveled. This can be done manually by undercutting with a bayonet shovel. Such work does not require a lot of effort and time.
  2. Covering the bottom of the pit with gravel mixed with sand will slightly improve moisture absorption and prevent clay and earth from entering the pit.
  3. Now you can start laying out the walls with bricks. The laying is done in a checkerboard pattern, from the bottom to the very top.

  1. The last step is to make a concrete slab, with a hole 30-50 cm in diameter for cleaning and an intake hose.
  2. Now you just have to bring the sewer pipes through which the outflow of water from the bath will be carried out.

Brick for facing the pit is only suitable for clay and well-fired; it is not recommended to use silicate or pressed briquettes of unknown composition.

Conclusion

The choice of technology that will drain the water in the bath depends not only on your financial capabilities, but also on how often and by how many people the washroom will be used at the same time. The video in this article will also help you.

The modern Russian bath is somewhat different from similar buildings erected in the last century. Now almost every steam room uses a complete drainage system that removes dirty water from the washing room. This has the best effect on the lifespan of wood and concrete floors and also reduces the risk of mold and mildew formation. Making a drain is not as difficult as it might seem.

Drainage device in the washing room

Washing room in a bath with a wooden leaking floor

Traditionally, the Russian bath consists of two rooms - a dressing room and a steam room, combined with a washing room. The layout of modern analogues of Russian baths is represented by such premises as:

  • the waiting area;
  • washing room;
  • steam room.

The first room does not need to be equipped with a drain. The technology of the drainage device in the washing and steam baths depends on the type of floor in a particular room.

Usually, there are several types of floor in the bath:


With the exception of the pouring floor, the inside of the drain is represented by a drain for collecting water and a drain pipe. The outer part of the sewage system, depending on the size of the building, the type of soil, the depth of soil freezing, can have a different look.

For a small bath, operated once a week, a simple drainage system with a small drainage pit located under the floor structure or in the immediate vicinity of the building is sufficient. For a bathhouse designed for a large family, which can be heated once or twice a week, a more complex sewage system with a drainage drain well will be required.

Wastewater disposal method

The design of the drainage system for draining waste water from the washing and steam rooms is selected taking into account the type of soil on which the structure is erected and the intensity of the use of the bath. Each of the designs has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

Pit under the bath

Pit under the bath with a stone for draining water

A shallow hole dug under the floor of the washing room. 2/3 of the pit is filled with filtering components - crushed stone, slag, water-bearing sand. Such a natural filter retains large particles, purifying water, which is then absorbed into the lower layers of the soil.

The advantages of this system include:

  • does not require the use of a piping system;
  • simplicity of the device, cleaning and maintenance.

The main disadvantage of a drainage system in the form of a pit is that it can only be used for baths on a columnar foundation located on sandy types of soil. With frequent use of the bath, the soil may become oversaturated with moisture - the water will not have time to spread through the soil, which will lead to its stagnation inside the pit.

Drain well

Concrete drainage well and plastic septic tank

The outer part of the drainage system is made in the form of a pipeline and a sealed reservoir filled with waste water coming from the bath. For the device of the reservoir, well rings, a plastic or metal septic tank are used.

As the waste water is filled, the tank is cleaned. To do this, water is pumped out using a sewer machine and taken to a treatment plant, or a septic tank is filled with biological products that filter the water, after which it is discharged through a special pipe to the lower layers of the soil, where it is gradually absorbed.

Among the advantages of a drain well are:

  • simplicity of the device on a site of any size;
  • the well does not require periodic cleaning;
  • relatively low cost.

For the proper functioning of the drainage system, the septic tank must be located below the level of the bath. This will ensure a natural and unimpeded flow of waste water. A free access must be organized to the location of the septic tank, otherwise a sewage truck with a large tank will not be able to drive up to the required distance to draw the water intake hose.

Filtration well

Filtration tank system from three wells

It is a well filled with fine crushed stone, finely crushed brick or slag. Waste water discharged from the washing room and steam bath enters the well and passes through the filter material.

The result is a small layer of silt and a large number of beneficial bacteria that purify the water. After gradual purification, the water leaves in a natural way or is used for household needs for irrigation and irrigation of the soil.

Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that the filter layer, with frequent use of the bath, quickly becomes dirty and requires replacement. This is a very time-consuming process, since crushed stone or slag will have to be removed manually. Despite this, this technology is optimal for the drainage device in saunas designed for a family of 4-6 people.

Ground filtration

Ground filtration using the example of a closed boiler and distribution pipes

Drainage system, consisting of a closed septic tank, where waste water accumulates, and sewer pipes, through which water is drained after it has been purified. Pipes are installed over a small area - this ensures uniform flow and absorption of water.

The advantages of soil filtration include:

  • full autonomy;
  • the possibility of water intake from several points;
  • high degree of purification.

Compared to other methods of waste water disposal, ground filtration requires the use of a large area of ​​the site where water will be absorbed. It is better to carry out installation work at the construction stage of the bath, when the territory adjacent to it has not yet been equipped.

For installation, you will need to dig a large enough pit for the installation of a septic tank, which requires the use of large construction equipment and special equipment.

Preparation for the installation of the drainage system

The design and installation of the bath drainage system takes place in conjunction with the floor device. It is optimal if the work will be carried out in the warm season, when the soil is driest. This will allow you to test the operability of the drain and, if necessary, make adjustments.

Design of the internal part of the drainage system

Concrete floor construction with drain in the bath

The design of the inside of the drainage system takes into account the rules that apply to the sewage system in residential premises. If necessary, a ventilation riser is erected or a shut-off valve is installed. For example, the installation of a riser is required when organizing a drain from several rooms at once.

The general scheme of a concrete floor with a drain consists of the following:


The layout of a wooden floor depends on its design, but in general it has a similar appearance. A drain pipe with a branch pipe is placed in the center of the room at the lowest point of the floor. For natural drainage, the sewer pipe is mounted with a slight slope. When installing a drain in the washing room of a bath and a steam room, one pipe must be placed between the rooms under the floor structure.

Design of the external drainage section

General diagram of a sewage system of various types in a bath

The calculation and design of the external sewerage section is carried out taking into account the size of the bath, the frequency of its operation, the type of soil and the design of the water intake. As mentioned above, the filter well is optimal for private use. The design is designed to purify a large volume of water, sufficient to visit the bathhouse for a family of up to 6 people.

It is optimal if the design of the well is done by professionals. This will allow you to select the required size of the reservoir for receiving water without overpaying for useless volume.

Drainage systems based on a septic tank are available in a ready-made version. Their volume is calculated depending on the number of people simultaneously visiting the bathhouse in a short period of time. For a family of 7, a tank with a capacity of 1.5 m 3 / day is sufficient.

Related video: planning a sewage system in a bath

Polypropylene pipes for sewerage

For the installation of the drainage system in the bath, modern high-strength plastic pipes of the required diameter are used. The average service life of the product, subject to the installation technology, is 50 years.

Depending on the requirement, pipes made of materials such as:

  • PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
  • PVCH - chlorinated polyvinyl chloride;
  • PP - polypropylene;
  • HDPE - low pressure polyethylene.

Pipes made of PVC, PP and HDPE are resistant to moisture and corrosion. Easy to install thanks to the intuitive mount. Most manufacturers of plastic pipes have a wide range of products, which allows you to choose products of the desired length, diameter and shape.

PVC pipes for laying communications in the ground

The use of cast iron pipes is impractical - they are expensive, they are difficult to deliver to the work site and difficult to install, although the products are highly durable and reliable.

Asbestos-cement pipes are also not the best choice for a bath drain. In addition to their low strength, they have a rough inner surface, which does not have the best effect on the natural flow of water. This is especially noticeable for highways longer than 10 m.

The cross-section of the drain pipe is selected taking into account the water intake points in the bath. For a typical bath with a steam room and a washing room, a pipe with a diameter of 11 cm is sufficient.For small baths with a single drain, a pipe with a diameter of no more than 7 cm is allowed.

Calculation of the required material

Polypropylene pipe and tee for draining

The amount of material required for the installation of a drainage system is selected according to a previously drawn up project. For example, for the device of the inner part of the drain with a size of 5 × 5 m, you will need:

  • drain ladder with direct outlet 105 × 105/50 mm;
  • socket pipe PP Ø50, length 500 mm;
  • straight pipe PP Ø50, length 1000 mm;
  • straight pipe PP Ø50, length 2000 mm;
  • adapter sleeve 50–110 mm;
  • outlet PP 45 o.

If necessary, a polypropylene 90 ° bend is used. The length of the drain pipe connection can vary from 500–1000 mm depending on the floor height. The pipe is cut if necessary. A 2000 mm long product is used as a drain pipe. When laying external communications, PVC pipes with a length of up to 3000 mm are used.

Essential tool for the job

A handy shovel is required for digging trenches and a water intake.

To carry out the installation work, you will need the following tool:

  • bayonet and shovel;
  • bubble level;
  • construction knife;
  • grinder with a disc for metal / concrete;
  • container for sand / crushed stone.

For excavation to a depth of more than 2 m, it is better to use special equipment. This will speed up the work process. If all the work will be done manually, then you need to take care of safety precautions.

Digging a well should only be done with the help of a partner who will make sure that the earth showered from the walls of the well shaft does not overwhelm the worker. All work is performed on a safety rope. The performer must be equipped with thick overalls and personal protective equipment in the form of a helmet, glasses and gloves.

A step-by-step guide to creating a plum in a bath with your own hands

The laying of the drain pipe and the installation of the drain should be carried out simultaneously with the arrangement of the floor. If it is planned to pour a concrete floor in the bath, then further work on laying the drainage system should be performed only after the initial polymerization of the concrete (at least 7 days).

Installation of the inner part of the drainage system

Diagram of the supply of the drain pipe to various points of water intake

To supply the drain pipe, you will need to perform the following work:

  1. To lay plastic pipes, you will need to dig a trench 50-60 cm deep. The depth is calculated based on the ground level located outside the building area. With a basement height of 30-50 cm, the depth of the trench should be at least 80-110 cm.

    Two variants of trenches for entering the drain pipe

  2. The trench route is determined by the project and depends on the place where the drainage ladder is entered. Excavation starts from the farthest point from the place where the drain pipe is inserted. For example, in the schematic drawing below, excavation is going from point A to point B.
  3. When digging a trench, the minimum slope is observed: 2 cm by 1 m. After the alignment of the route, a layer of fine-grained sand 7–10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the trench and carefully compacted. At the same time, the bias continues to be observed.

    The slope along the ground is observed along the route of the pipeline

  4. If the bath is erected on a strip foundation, then a hole should be made in the selected place for the drain pipe inlet. For this, a perforator and a grinder with a concrete disc are used.
  5. Installation of vertical and laying of horizontal pipe sections is in progress. In places where it is planned to install the ladder, a horizontal pipe up to 2 m long is installed. The connection to the horizontal pipe is made by means of a 90 ° bend.

    After checking the quality of the pipe connection and observing the slope, the trench is backfilled

  6. If several ladders will be located on one horizontal section of the pipeline, then a tee of the required diameter is used for the connection. For example, in the diagram above, this element is highlighted in a bright color.
  7. For insulation of the drain pipe, a shell based on polyurethane foam is used. The thickness of the heat insulator depends on the depth of soil freezing. For central Russia - at least 10 mm with a depth of 70–90 cm.

After insulation, the angle of inclination is checked. To do this, 5–10 liters of water are alternately drained into each vertical section of the pipe. If everything is in order and the pipe joints do not leak, then the trench is backfilled with previously excavated soil.

Installation of a closed septic tank

Diagram of a water intake device in the form of a closed septic tank

As a closed septic tank, you can use both finished products from the manufacturer and constructions made with your own hands from scrap materials. If the amount of wastewater discharged at a time does not exceed 300 liters, and the total weekly volume is 700 liters, then the septic tank can be made from old car tires.

The area of ​​water absorption for a septic tank is calculated on the basis that sandy soil per day can absorb no more than 100 l / m 2, mixed soil - no more than 50 l / m 2, and loamy soil - no more than 20 l / m 2 per day. Based on this, the height and area of ​​the base of the tank is calculated.

Preparing a mine for laying old tires

The septic tank installation technology consists of the following stages:


Before bricking up, he checks the septic tank's performance. For this, 50–100 liters are drained through pipes. water. If the water leaves over time, then you can mount a ventilation pipe and fill up the septic tank.

Installation of a drain well

For the device of a drain well, a metal or plastic tank, reinforced concrete well rings, red brick or stone can be used. The material is selected taking into account the depth of the structure. It is optimal if it is possible to install reinforced concrete structures of the required diameter.

Preparation of a well shaft for the installation of reinforced concrete rings

To equip the well, you will need to do the following:

  1. The location of the well is chosen taking into account that it must be accessible for a truck. It is desirable that the well is located in the lowland. This will allow not to remove a large amount of soil to create a natural flow of water.
  2. A pit is excavated with a size of 1.5 × 1.5 m using special equipment. If ordering an excavator is problematic, then you will have to dig a well shaft manually. In the process of work, safety precautions are observed. To simplify the process, you can dig a square-shaped hole.

    A square well shaft can be faced with old bricks

  3. A 15 cm layer of fine-grained sand is poured into the bottom of the mine and carefully compacted. After that, a concrete mixture based on M500 cement is prepared. The shaft bottom is being poured. If possible, round-shaped concrete products can be laid on the bottom of the well. This will allow you not to wait for concrete polymerization and continue work.
  4. The walls of the mine are being clad with red bricks. Old and chipped bricks can be used to reduce costs. A solution of clay and sand is used as a binder mixture. In the upper part, a drain pipe is connected to the well. After lining, the surface of the well is treated with bitumen mastic.

    The filter well made of reinforced concrete rings, after entering the drain pipe, is covered with a concrete cover

  5. As a cover, you can use ready-made reinforced concrete products for well mines. When self-manufacturing, you will need to expose the formwork from available tools with an overlap of 30 cm in length and width. In the center of the formwork, it is necessary to set the sides to create a round hole.
  6. The first layer of concrete mixture is poured with a thickness of 5–7 cm. After the first layer has set, a reinforcing mesh made of reinforcement rods with a cross section of 6–8 mm is laid on its surface. Then the next layer of the same thickness is poured.

After the concrete slab has dried, the shaft is closed with a metal hatch. Before backfilling, the slab is treated with bitumen mastic and covered with polyethylene 200 microns thick.

Installation of soil filtration system

To install a drainage system with a soil filtration method, you will need to make or purchase a ready-made septic tank of the required volume. The distribution of water throughout the site will take place through a pipeline system based on polypropylene products with a cross section of 110 mm.

Preparation of the pit and installation of an oblong water intake

To make a drainage system with soil filtration, you will need:

  1. In the immediate vicinity of the drain pipe leaving the bath, a site is marked for the installation of a septic tank. The size of the site should be 30-50 cm larger than the intake structure itself. A trench with a depth of 80–110 cm should follow to the marked area, observing the slope.

    Preparation of trenches for pipeline laying for soil filtration system

  2. Digging a pit for the installation of a septic tank. During installation, care should be taken not to damage the water intake. After installing the tank in the ground, the drain pipe is laid, taking into account the thickness of the soil freezing.
  3. To prepare drains in a PP pipe, through holes with a diameter of 110 mm must be drilled with a step of 10 cm. For this, an electric drill with drills of 8, 10 and 12 mm is used. The pipe is divided into three equal parts. In each of the parts, holes of the same diameter are drilled from the smallest to the largest.

    Preparation and laying of distribution pipes in trenches

  4. Trenches are being prepared for laying the distribution pipes. The length of the trench is not more than 25 m. The width of the trench is 50–100 cm. The step between adjacent pipes is not less than 1.5 m. The depth of the trench is from 1.5 m.
  5. After the preparation of the trenches, the observance of the slope of 1.5–2 o is checked. Further, a layer of sifted sand and gravel 10 cm thick each is poured into the bottom of the trenches. After that, geotextiles are laid on the crushed stone with an overlap on the walls of the trench.

    Backfilling the trench after checking the pipeline for operability

  6. Pipes are being laid. After laying, the pipe is wrapped in geotextile and covered with a 10 cm layer of gravel. At the end of each pipe, a 90 ° bend and a pipe 50–70 cm long are mounted. A protective valve with holes is put on the end of the vertical pipe and trenches are backfilled.

During operation, preventive cleaning of the drainage pipe should be carried out. For this, both special plumbing fixtures and pipe cleaning products are used, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

With frequent use of the bath, you should periodically check the fullness of the container and empty it as needed. This is especially true in spring and autumn, when the land is overflowing with moisture and water is absorbed into the lower layers of the soil with less intensity.

Maintenance of soil filtration systems should be carried out every 12-15 years. To do this, it is necessary to completely replace the sand and gravel bed and the bottom layer of earth in each of the trenches.

Competent drainage of water from a bath is one of the most important points during construction. Its durability, the absence of harmful odors of raw materials or fungus in it, and how often the foundation will have to be repaired later directly depends on this. In this article, we invite you to understand the various options for the device of the drainage system.

The easiest way is to install a drain pipe

The simplest and most tried-and-true drainage of water in the bathhouse is the drain pipe, which is laid even during the construction of the foundation of the steam bath. It must be done obliquely in relation to the drainage pit itself - this way you do not have to additionally insulate it.

The pit itself should be dug at a distance of 3 to 5 meters from the bath, and it is imperative to strengthen its edges from possible collapses. It is better if these are concrete rings - or a frame filled with concrete. But it is important to make the bottom of the pit so that the water in it is absorbed into the soil freely.

So that the drainage of the water for the bath is not clogged, it is advisable to make the pipe completely without bends - after all, it is from them that it is most difficult to remove debris. And yes - you can only take a sewer pipe for these purposes, the diameter of which has its strictly defined value.

Installing the drain pipe is easy enough, just follow these instructions:

  • Step 1. A pit is being prepared, and a trench is being dug from it to the bathhouse.
  • Step 2. A drain pipe is installed - and it is not necessary to insulate it, but it will not hurt.
  • Step 3. A cement floor is made in the sink, with a slope along the entire perimeter to the drain pipe. It is important that the floor really turns out without dents - then water should not stagnate anywhere.
  • Step 4. So that the bathhouse can work all year round without any problems, the water drain is equipped with a grid - all the debris will be collected on it, and there will be no blockages in the pipe.
  • Step 5. After all this, you can put tiles from tiles on the cement floor - of the color and style that you like and corresponds to the style of the interior of the bath. And already on the tiles, wooden lattices with a special impregnation are placed - so that during pleasant bath procedures you do not have to walk barefoot on hot tiles.

Where and how best to drain the water?

But where the water itself will go - it all depends on the planned budget and the load on drainage. So, it never hurts to build a separate cesspool at a distance from the bath, and from it to lay a trench and lay a sewer tube in it with good insulation.

And the most budgetary option is right under the washing bed of gravel (both large and small), where the water will go.

Funnel made easy

Some bath attendants also make something like a funnel under the washing and steam room - they concrete its walls and coat it with liquid glass. In the center of such a funnel is a drain pipe that goes beyond the bath: into a pit, the walls of which are reinforced with bricks, or the pit itself is an old iron barrel without a bottom.

At the bottom of the pit is gravel, on top is a thick metal cover and an opening for a ventilation pipe. Judging by the reviews, such a simple but reliable system can be left unopened for ten years.

We also recommend reading the article about installing a shower drain in the floor under the tiles on the Vannapedia website - there is a very good description of the technology for installing a classic water drain system.

Drain pit outside the bath

But some builders today are convinced that the water must be taken out of the bath. They say that the sand dries for a long time even in summer, and in winter all the water that goes under the foundation in the old fashioned way will simply turn into ice - and you can forget about warm floors in the steam room until spring.

Others are sure that it takes very little water for one or two people in the bath, the steam room is usually used from time to time, and if the sand is not taken from ordinary, but from a large fraction, then no problems should arise ...

But the pit itself can be made using this technology, which has recently become especially popular among bath attendants: the pit is made from the tires of a jeep or a similar car. Water flows into this pit through plastic pipes, and so that neither cold nor unpleasant odors get into the bath in winter, a water seal is made - something like a hydraulic lock:

Point 1. A plastic five-liter bucket is taken, a handle is made of galvanized tape and an iron pipe is placed on the lowest cord from the upper tire - across the pit. A bucket is suspended on it - it will hang like a cauldron over a fire, below the upper level of the pit.

Point 2. A corrugation is put on the end of the sewer pipe, which goes down into the bucket from above - it will be at a distance of 10 cm from the bottom and 10 cm from the edge, i.e. in the middle of the bucket. That's the whole hydraulic lock - after draining, all the water will be collected in a bucket and overflow, gently flowing into the pit. And when the drain stops, the water that remains in the bucket will prevent the same air from getting into the bath. And, even if dirt or leaves settle on the bottom of the bucket, it can always be turned over to clean it.

What kind of system to make for a large number of people?

For a steam room, which is visited from time to time by three or four friends, you need one outlet of water in the bath, but for a whole company of regulars it is already different. In a bathhouse for a small number of bathers, a drain pit is usually set up directly under the foundation. Its walls can be overlaid with bricks and covered with coarse sand - that's the thing for a summer bath. But in the second case, you will already need a special pipe that will go into the drainage well - and below the level of freezing of the soil, otherwise it will freeze. And you can combine both methods - in the summer using the first, and in the winter - the second.

And so that the water from the bath is not wasted and does not pollute the environment, you can use a septic tank that will clean it and distribute it through irrigation pipelines. The most difficult and expensive way to remove and purify water from a bath is a well with biological filters. It contains slag, brick breakage and crushed stone. The whole secret is that with the constant ingress of bath wastewater into the well, it becomes covered with silt over time, and microorganisms in the silt, which then purify the wastewater. Such a septic tank is usually built in the lowest place on the site.

That's all! Nothing complicated - a competent drain in the bath can be done with your own hands.

Bath has always been considered a purely Russian pastime. She served for bathing, helped to keep her body clean and played the role of an outlet for the people. Nowadays, it is hard to imagine a house in which she would not be. Many owners who do not have a bath are thinking about building one. One of the questions that arises in connection with construction sounds like this: how to make a drain in a bath with your own hands? After all, a bath is a place where you simply cannot do without water. And if there is a sufficient amount of liquid, then it is logical that it needs to be put somewhere. Someone might say that the easiest way is when the water will drain into a pit, a free space under the floor. But, we want to upset you - this is fraught with the fact that mold will form in the floor, the smell of rot will constantly be present in the room, and most importantly, the bathhouse can sink, as the water will destroy the top layer of the soil. And not in all cases it will be possible to arrange it, due to the fact that in the soil there may be a high content of clay, which does not absorb moisture.

That is why it is important to know how to properly organize the drain for the bath with your own hands and approach this work with special responsibility. In this situation, your drain will last for many years. This article will consider several options for how you can make a do-it-yourself drain in the bath. This instruction will help you cope with the task at hand.

How are the floors in the bathhouse

If we talk about a properly made drain for a bath, then one cannot but touch upon the topic of arranging the floor. This issue must be approached with no less responsibility. It is worth noting that no matter how well you make a drain for a bath, this is a room with an extremely high humidity. And it is the floor that takes on the lion's share of this moisture.

You should know that the floor in the bath can be made of either wood or concrete. This choice directly depends on what kind of building itself. If this is a capital structure, where a shower room, a steam room, a dressing room and a rest room will be used all year round, then it is better to make a reliable concrete floor with reinforced waterproofing. And if this is a wooden bathhouse, and you plan to use it only in the summer, then it is rational to make a floor of wood. This will significantly save you money and reduce the amount of work required.

Note! A wooden floor in a bathhouse will last you much less than a concrete one. Even if it is completely protected from moisture and high temperature with a special compound, over time everything will have to be changed. You must be prepared for this.

How is the concrete floor in the bathhouse

If we talk about concrete pavement, then it is more reliable and durable. This floor consists of:

  • compacted gravel;
  • a layer of concrete;
  • vapor barrier layer;
  • a layer of expanded polystyrene as insulation;
  • waterproofing layer (plastic film);
  • another layer of concrete;
  • reinforced cement screed;
  • facing layer (ceramic tiles, etc.).

How is the wooden floor in the bathhouse

As for wooden floors, they can be of two types: solid (non-leaking) and non-continuous (leaking). A solid floor is laid on top of a concrete screed. At the same time, it is made so that the surface has a slight slope towards the equipped drain. The boards fit close to each other, so there are no gaps. The disadvantage of such a coating for a bath is that the water stagnates on the floor, dries for a long time, and the boards quickly begin to undergo a decay process. It is much better to use a non-continuous floor.

What is its advantage? It is easier to use and will last you longer. The thing is that the boards are not fixed closely, but at a short distance from each other. This gap is 5 mm. It is enough so that the water does not stagnate on the surface and more easily goes to the drain. In addition, these slots act as a fan, drying out the floor.

For everything to function correctly, you need to organize a sealed pit under the room. From it through the pipe there will be an outflow of water into the prepared drainage pit. In this pit, it will be necessary to make a water seal so that unpleasant odors do not get inside the bath. Having dealt with the floors, you can figure out how to make a drain in the bathhouse sink and other rooms.

How to properly drain in the bath

In order to efficiently equip the drainage of water, you need to pay special attention to the following indicators:

  1. Drain system power. It must be chosen taking into account how many people will visit the steam room, and how often. In addition, this indicator also affects the volume of the well or pit.
  2. The groundwater level in the place where the bathhouse is built.
  3. Soil composition and quality.

Taking these indicators into account, you need to decide how to equip a drain for a bath, which structure to use, and what are its features. So you can immediately find out the capacity, depth, material and fasteners. To begin with, you need to make a water collection system inside the bath under a discontinuous floor. Let's find out how to do it.

Do-it-yourself bath drain step-by-step guide

All work is carried out at the stage of foundation construction. It can be tape-like or columnar. The process is as follows:


As a rule, the boards may not be nailed to the floor joists. For ease of use, they are made removable. They need to be fastened together with a bar and laid on top. Everything is assembled into shields so that the connecting bar is between the floor beams. The floor made in this way is better used, since it can be removed and dried in the air. We invite you to see the information on how to make a drain in the bath:

Creating a drain tank

Now that you have created a liquid collection system, you need to figure out where to drain the drain through the pipes. The first option is a drain tank, which will have a filter bottom. Its purpose is to clean the drain from pollution and retain microorganisms. After that, the water goes through the bottom into the ground, being purified again. Different materials can be used as a filter. This is sand, and pieces of bricks and even rubble. If the bathhouse will be used by a family of 3-4 people, then the best size of the well is 2 m deep with a diameter of 1-1.5 m. The shape of the well can be round or square. It is still better to choose the cylindrical version, since the pressure on the walls will be uniform. Then it will not need to be repaired frequently.

It is important to consider that the well should be located 3 to 5 meters from the bath. If you make it closer, there is a risk of unpleasant odors and destruction of the foundation. And when the well is very far away, then more pipes will be needed. The figure shows how this scheme can be implemented.

Most often, the walls of the well are additionally strengthened. The most expensive option is concrete rings. But there are also simpler ones, for example, car tires. As a compromise option - brickwork. Alternatively, you can use a metal or plastic barrel that has no bottom. It is important to close the well with a concrete or metal lid and sprinkle it with earth.

Draining water into the sewer

If your site has a central sewerage system, then everything is much simpler. All you need is to properly arrange the floor in the bath, insulate it and arrange a drain to the central sewer pipe. Pipes laid horizontally at an angle to the pipe will be installed as a drain. They will receive water, which can get inside through the siphon and the drain body.

PVC pipes are laid in the floor at an angle to the riser. It is recommended to fill in sand in the trench in advance and tamp it. And install pipes on the prepared pillow. The drop should be 2 cm by 1 m. The pipes are led out to the riser or outside the bath. In more detail about how to drain in the bath, you will learn from the video:

Draining water into a cesspool

Another option for draining water from the bath is to drain into a cesspool. This option has some disadvantages, but it is the simplest one. We will not consider the step-by-step course of work, since the principle is already clear. It's just that the water from the bath will go out through the pipe system, directly into the cesspool. All that will be required of you is to pump out the contents as it fills up.

Note! You can do it yourself or call a special service.

Let's summarize

Bath drain is a very important stage of construction work. It is important to give this process enough time and attention. After all, if you do something wrong, then all your efforts may be in vain. To avoid this, it is important to tune in advance to properly equip the drain in the bath. You need to think in advance which variant of water drainage to choose. After all, if a sewerage system is not provided in your area, then you will have to drain into a cesspool or well. In addition, pay attention to the quality of consumables: pipes, siphon and drain hole. Then your drain will last a long time and reliably.

During the design of the construction of a bath, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of its operation. For this, the building must have increased thermal insulation, fire safety and a well-thought-out sewage system.

The latter is the determining factor - the timely removal of moisture will preserve the structure and significantly increase the comfort in the bath.

Before starting construction, many choose the easiest way to remove the resulting wastewater. It consists in directly draining them into the ground under the bath (pit). But this is not always possible, since many factors must be taken into account.

The determining one is the type of foundation. If the bathhouse is to be built on a strip or slab foundation, then constantly incoming moisture can significantly affect its safety.

The concrete mix has a porous structure that absorbs moisture relatively well. With a small volume of water, this factor can be ignored, but only if bath procedures are taken by a maximum of 3 people once a week.

In addition, there are the following restrictions on the use of soil filtration:

  • soil composition. If it contains a large percentage of clay, it will make it difficult to absorb moisture naturally. As a result, there will always be water under the floor;
  • relief of the area. When building a bathhouse on an inclined area, the constant presence of water under the foundation can lead to soil erosion. This will affect the reliability of the structure;
  • taking these factors into account, for optimal water removal in the bath, a sewer system should be equipped. For the disposal of "gray" effluents, it is necessary to install a soil filtration system. It can consist of aeration fields or a soil cleaning well.

Photo: soil filtration systems for a bath

Scheme

Arrangement of a system for removing water from a bath should be planned before starting construction. In this case, the maximum volume of waste masses, the specificity of the terrain and the composition of the soil must be taken into account.

The main element of the sewage system for the bath is the organization of the removal of liquid from the floor surface.


Photo: arrangement of a system for removing water from a bath

The design process should take into account the material of the floor covering (cement or concrete screed), the number of "wet" rooms and their area.

The general output scheme should consist of the following elements:

  • pipelines;

A horizontal one is drawn under the floor, to which the drains are connected. They are located on the surface of the floor covering.

  • connection points for plumbing fixtures;

Important! If the bathhouse provides for the installation of a toilet and a sink, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of a central vertical riser. It must be connected to a horizontal pipe.

Each floor drain must have a water lock in its design to protect against the ingress of unpleasant odors from the sewer pipes into the room.


Photo: installation of a central vertical riser

It often comes with factory drain models. If the arrangement of the hole is made of improvised materials, then when choosing the design of the drain, it should be borne in mind that the diameter of the branch pipe should be equal to the size of the section of the horizontal pipe.

  • external pipeline and a well for soil cleaning.

All this forms a single system for the effective removal of wastewater from the bath. But for professional design, it is necessary to take into account not only the technical parameters of the building and the terrain, but also a balanced approach to the choice of construction materials.

Photo: schemes for collection and treatment of bath effluents

You should also consider in advance the implementation of all stages of the sewerage arrangement.

Construction stages

The already built bathhouse does not always have the correct drainage system. Therefore, for a complete overview of the rules for its arrangement, it is necessary to consider 2 options - installation at the construction stage of the building and installation in an already finished bath.

Despite the fact that in the end the functioning of the systems will be identical, the stages of their establishment are different.

The list of materials for installing the drainage system will be the same. It should include the following elements:

  • sewer pipes. For internal installation, you can use PVC polymer products with a wall thickness of 2.2 mm. The recommended diameter for the standpipe and the horizontal part is 110 mm. With a small volume of water, a 50 mm pipe can be installed;
  • drain body. It is best to purchase factory models made of plastic. However, the top grill must be made of durable material. The best option is galvanized steel or cast iron construction;

Photo: bath drain
  • siphons. They are selected according to the parameters of the sewer pipes and drain.

After purchasing these materials, you can proceed with the installation procedures. At the first stage, it is necessary to draw up an accurate work plan.

It indicates the location of the well, and based on this, the layout of the internal pipeline is adjusted.

The complete list of works consists of the following stages:

Bath floor preparation

If an old building is being modernized, then it is necessary to remove wooden boards and logs, or by gouging in the concrete floor, punch a channel for installing pipes.

Installation of pipelines

The highways are installed at a certain slope. For internal networks, it should be 2-3 cm, depending on. Sand is poured at the bottom of the trench, which is carefully compacted. Then the pipeline is laid.


Photo: laying the pipeline for the bath

After installing the central horizontal pipe, it must be connected to the riser. In its absence, the line is led directly through the foundation for connection with.


Photo: connecting the sewer to the riser in the bath

In the places where the drains are installed, formwork is made. Its dimensions are fully consistent with the dimensions of the drain structures. For its manufacture, thin sheets of iron are used.

After installing the pipes and checking their tightness, you can proceed to the next step.

Filling the floor

When pouring a cement screed, it is necessary to make a slope of the floor level towards the drains. For this, sand saturation is preliminarily made, which is rammed. Then its surface is filled with cement mortar.


Photo: the slope of the floor level towards the drains

After the final hardening of the concrete layer, you can use the bath.
The system of soil treatment of waste masses is of particular interest. Due to the specificity of the composition of waters, it should have a number of parameters characteristic only of it.

The device of a cesspool for a bath

The peculiarity of the composition of the bath waste is the low content of "black" waters. They will not be enough to support the aerobic or anaerobic fermentation reactions.

But at the same time, the requirements for the cleaning process are reduced, since the percentage of water pollution will be significantly lower than that of a conventional composition for house sewage.

Therefore, filtration wells can be used as a waste disposal method.

They have the following advantages:

  • small size. The well is a shaft with waterproofing walls and a bottom made of several layers of filter media;
  • affordable cost. To install the structure, you can use standard materials - concrete rings, bricks or ready-made factory products;
  • simple maintenance. This system practically does not need to be pumped out. Most of the waste will go into the soil and a small residue of biological substances will decompose into constituent elements.

The general diagram of the well is shown in the figure:


Photo: filtration well

To equip it, you must choose an installation location. The well should be located no closer than 5 meters from the basement of the bath.

The minimum thickness must be 300 mm. After the installation of the structure, it is aligned with the plane of the ground. An external sewer pipe is being connected.

The empty space between the outer wall of the structure and the pit is filled with a sand-cement mixture.

To ventilate the system, an air pipe must be installed. It can be located on the body of the device. Its minimum lifting height above ground level is 400 mm.


Photo: ventilation of the filtration well

Autonomous sewerage device

The structure of the sewerage system in the bath is in many ways similar to the standard one for the home.

It must contain 3 constituent elements:

  • internal routing of pipes for connecting plumbing fixtures - floor drain, sinks, toilet, etc .;
  • wastewater discharge system outside the building. The pipeline connected to the internal piping ensures the transportation of waste to the place of their processing (filtration well) or to the central sewerage system;
  • water withdrawal into the ground with preliminary treatment. Installed only for a bath with autonomous sewerage.

However, there is a specificity in the choice of material for the manufacture of pipes. If, due to circumstances, the central riser passes through the steam room, then it must withstand maximum temperatures up to + 80 ° C without changing its properties.

Important! Therefore, when choosing polymer pipes, special attention should be paid to their critical temperature conditions.

It is best to use modified PVC, the maximum heating temperature of which is + 95 ° C.

If a central sewerage main passes in the immediate vicinity, then you can connect to it. To do this, it is necessary to issue permits and ensure compliance with technical conditions.

After submitting an application to the management company, you will need to provide the following documents:

  • conclude an agreement with a representative of the design organization for carrying out land and installation work. The company's activities are necessarily confirmed by certificates;
  • obtain the consent of neighbors to carry out connection activities in the event that the work is carried out in the immediate vicinity of their houses;
  • at the connection point, install an inspection well to check the condition of the system and the integrity of the pipes.

Only then can you obtain written permission and connect the wastewater drain from the bathhouse to the central sewerage system.

Such red tape would be inappropriate with a small amount of "gray" waters. It is best to install one that can perform cleaning functions.

Given the minimum volume of water, you can choose the simplest type of treatment plant with small dimensions.

Advantages and disadvantages of types of plums for a bath

The choice of the method of disposal of sewage water is decisive in the design.

Important! Therefore, for a complete analysis, it is necessary to carefully consider all the advantages and disadvantages of various systems.

Currently, 3 types of organization of drainage in the bath are used - drainage, ground cleaning and connection to the central sewerage system.

The technology for their design and assembly was discussed above. Let's dwell on the positive and negative aspects of the exploitation of each of them.

Drainage

Advantages:

  • ease of organization. Under the floor, which consists of wooden boards with relatively large gaps (3-5 mm), a hole is dug, the depth of which exceeds the level of freezing of the soil. A backfill of sand and gravel is laid on its bottom. Water enters the resulting pit and gradually goes into the lower layers of the soil;
  • low cost of installation work;
  • the use of pipelines and additional fittings is not required.

Flaws:

  • designed for a small volume of wastewater;
  • only suitable for soils with good moisture absorption coefficient;
  • the technology is unsuitable for a bath with a tiled foundation.

Ground cleaning

Advantages:

  • used for a complete sewerage system with several wastewater collection points;
  • autonomous work without connection to the central sewerage system;
  • the ability to process not only "gray", but also "black" wastewater. To do this, you must install at least an anaerobic septic tank.

Flaws:

  • relatively high cost of consumables and equipment;
  • to install a septic tank or a filtration well, it is necessary to allocate a piece of land.

Connection to the central sewerage system

Advantages:

  • lack of external devices for wastewater treatment. They go directly to the central sewerage system;
  • the ability to connect several points of water intake. The main thing is not to exceed the maximum volume for which the sewage pipelines are designed.

Flaws:

  • bureaucratic red tape in the registration of permits;
  • relatively high cost of services of contractors.

Which of these methods of organizing the drain in the bath will be optimal? Everything is determined by the current operational properties. With a small volume of wastewater, a drainage disposal system can be used.

If you need a higher level of comfort (shower, toilet), then the best way is to install a septic tank, or connect to a central sewerage system.

Video: how to make a sewage system in a country house and in the country

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