How to make a billiard cue at home. How are handmade billiard cues made? Characteristics of wood species for billiard cues

Let's see what types of wood are used in the manufacture of billiard cues. As you have already noticed, there are not very many of these species, since not every tree has the required rigidity.

Amaranth: valued by craftsmen for its high density and hardness, providing it with excellent resistance to dynamic loads.
Eben: A very dense material, so dense that it sinks in water. Eben is a real record holder in terms of cost. A cubic meter of such a tree can cost more than 100 thousand dollars. Accordingly, if you are offered an ebony cue for ridiculous money - think about it, can this be in principle?
Rosewood: polishes well, practically does not dry out, and the hardness of the wood is greater than that of oak. Typically used as decorative element because it has a beautiful fiber structure.
Wenge: Wenge wood has excellent resistance to compression and bending, so it is widely used in the production of billiard cues. Plus, wenge does not lend itself to fungal influences, which makes it very convenient to store. The wood is so hard and heavy that even termites bypass this tree.
Hornbeam: There are probably not many good and inexpensive billiard cues that do not use hornbeam. Rigidity, bending strength and splitting are far from complete list its properties. It is worth noting that in the "fresh" state, the hornbeam is susceptible to fungal attack, but proper processing and drying make it ideal material for cue. As a rule, the hornbeam is used to make turns, and is also actively used in gluing Christmas trees.
Bubingo (kewazingo, waca): the wood has a pronounced dark red or red-brown hue (vaguely reminiscent of some types of rosewood). Bubingo from the territory of Cameroon stands out among his fellows with original curls in the texture. High density and resistance to wear and external influences have made Bubingo one of the most popular wood in the production of cues.
Layswood: wood has an interesting pattern, combined with strength and ease of processing. Lacewood is easy to polish and bond, but the master should carefully monitor the processing process, since limewood's coarse-grained structure requires certain skills to avoid loosening.
Ipe: along with hornbeam is the most common material for making billiard cues. Differs in deep olive-brown color and good resistance to all kinds of external influences.

The appearance of the leather sticker

Almost until the beginning of the 30s of the 19th century, all blows in billiards were strictly central. The ball could only be fired in a straight line. Leather stickers, without which modern billiards is simply impossible to imagine, did not exist at that time. True, it is worth noting that many players have tried to find some way to improve the game. One of the first pioneers was the French major Duga, a big fan of billiards. As a prototype of the sticker, he invented a plaster tip. Such a tip had a lot of drawbacks: the cue had to be periodically dipped in liquid gypsum, drops of gypsum fell on the cloth, the cloth was easily torn from accidental hits on it with such a tip, etc. Despite this, such a cue gave advantages in the game compared to a conventional wooden cue without any tip. Balls still had to be hit only in the center, but the plaster tip significantly reduced the likelihood of a kick.
The invention of the leather sticker is attributed to another Frenchman, Mengo. According to one version, Mengo accidentally touched a wall with a cue and lime remained at the end of the cue, and after hitting the cue ball slightly rolled back. Another legend says that, being wounded, Mengo, for fun, hit the ball with a crutch with clay adhering to it and rolled the cue ball back with this blow. However, the method of discovering this effect is unimportant, the important thing is that Mengo began to improve this idea and finally settled on the skin. With the advent of a leather sticker, those blows with screws that we see in modern billiards have become possible.
To date, there are many stickers for cue sticks of varying degrees of hardness (soft, medium and hard) and with different amount layers from single-layer hard stickers to 12-layer soft ones. Each player can choose the right sticker depending on the type of billiards (Russian or pool) and the style of their game.

Billiard cue balance

For a comfortable game, you need your own cue - perhaps no one will argue with this statement. One of the important indicators of a cue is its balance. How should the cue be balanced to make it as comfortable to play as possible? Let's define the terminology: balance is the point along the cue at which the cue is in a state of horizontal balance and is measured in centimeters from the cue.
In general, the balance of the cue is conventionally divided into "rear" and "front". To play other people's balls, the balance of the cue, as a rule, is located at a distance of 42-45 cm. This position facilitates the accuracy of playing other people's balls. For more accurate playing with one's ball, the balance of the cue is 30-35 cm. Such a balance is well suited for the Moscow or Neva pyramid, in which the play of one's balls plays an important role.
The front balance of the cue allows you to play more stable from an open stop and more accurately perform direct hits (without screws). If your play style is precise cutting and open bridge, then the best choice will balance forward or in the middle. By the way, according to the results of the analysis of billiard games, most of the balls can be played without the use of a screw. It is also worth noting that the front balance allows the manufacturer to be less careful about the stiffness and stability of the cue.
A billiard cue with a back balance is easier to hold with one hand, since the wrist is much less strained. When making a cue, it is more difficult for a manufacturer to make a back balance, since more high requirements. But if all standards are met, we will get a more stable tool for the game.
As a rule, in most inexpensive cues, a removable weight is located inside the turnyak, with the help of which you can change the balance or weight of the cue within certain limits.
In any case, when buying a cue, it is worth trying it out in practice, since all numerical values ​​in the cue parameters are relative. If the cue “fits into your hand” and it is comfortable for them to play, then this is your cue.

The dependence of skill on the cost of the cue

With the statement that to develop the skill of playing billiards you need your own cue, no one will argue. But the next question arises - what kind of cue to buy for a novice player? Having entered any serious billiard salon, both regular and online stores, we will see a choice of more than 150 cues and a huge range of prices. Naturally, a beginner is not going to pay more money for a cue right away and will turn his attention to the initial and intermediate price segments.
And here we should recall a few “insights” that often come to novice amateurs:
Insight one: subconsciously, the player assumes that buying an expensive cue will automatically improve the game. This is partly true, since the money spent and the feeling of novelty stimulate the beginner to play more often. Accordingly, a lot of practice improves the results, although it does not correct the gaps in the playing technique.
Illumination the second: initial interest in billiards can pass. Sometimes it happens pretty quickly different reasons: lack of time, lack of permanent partners for the game, unwillingness to train alone, etc. In this case, the cue becomes another unclaimed thing in the house.
At some point, the player is visited by the most important understanding that the full potential of the acquired cue cannot be revealed, since this requires training. Train constantly and purposefully, and not play "for fun", even if regularly. This is quite normal, since not all amateurs become professionals.
From all this we can draw the main conclusion: the cost billiard cue directly depends on the time spent at the billiard table. Purely theoretically, a novice player can go through 3 stages of buying his cue. The first cue is purchased within 1000 UAH. As a rule, these are quite decent cues, and the low cost is due to a small number of cuts. If a beginner successfully passes the first two "insights", then he moves to the average price category of cues and chooses a cue, focusing on his playing style and experience. Well, in the case of switching to professionals, the player is already well aware of what he needs and makes a third purchase. By the way, not all champions in the Russian pyramid play with "priest" cues or cues for 1.5-2 thousand dollars.

Selecting billiard cue options

There are many parameters for which one billiard cue different from the other: the number of composite links, the ratio of their lengths (solid, two-piece, three or more parts); used for the manufacture of wood species, their ratio, the number of wedges, finishing features, type of twist, type and characteristics of the sticker, etc., etc. These parameters have a significant effect on appearance billiard cue and are a reflection of a purely subjective concept of the person playing this instrument, about the beauty and playing properties of the cue.

In addition to these characteristics, a billiard cue has parameters that are directly related to the player's height and the type of game: cue length, turnnyak diameter, sticker diameter, weight, balance. The choice of turnnyak diameter consists in sampling various cues and choosing the diameter that is most conveniently located in the hand. By choice of sticker: the less professional you are, the larger diameter stickers are recommended. This can be explained by the fact that a wider sticker will “smooth out” errors in the execution of a strike. The range of sticker diameters recommended for amateur level players varies between 12.5 and 13 millimeters. I draw your attention to the fact that these tips are advisory in nature and summarize the opinion of most players, but not all. Regarding the choice of sticker stiffness, I won’t even start a conversation. this topic is generally of a purely individual nature. Let me just say that the most common stickers we have are Triangle, Master, Muri. The stickers of Kamui, Le pro and Molavia, and some other types are also easily accessible and well known. Over time, each player himself comes to the conclusion about the ideality of a particular sticker for his type of game, sometimes this opinion changes over time. One way or another, this is a path of trial and error, from which no one is immune.

One of the most important parameters when choosing a suitable cue for playing billiards is its length. Many hobbyists find that the cue length is appropriate for a given player if the sticker of a vertically placed cue is at the level of the lips or the tip of the nose. Actually, this statement is wrong. No matter how close the player is to the standard of the ratio of arm length to height, there are still physiological differences. Also, there are differences between the players' stances. The length of the cue for players of the same height and the same length of hands may differ due to the use of a low (“snooker”) stance or a classic high (“old fashioned”). Considering the influence of this factor, we ask you to make the measurements described below after bringing the rack into proper shape. If you have just started taking lessons from a coach and the stand is still not very comfortable for you, we ask you to bring it in line with the requirements of the coach and the canons of billiard science. So, let's proceed to the description of the method. I recommend taking an outside observer, but you can handle it yourself. Among other things, I recommend taking the largest (in length) of the cues available and taking measurements on it. The meaning of the operation is to reveal the distance from the heel of the turnyak to the end of the hand during the implementation of most strokes on billiards. Anyway, while playing simple pairs, whose position does not constrain your stance with any inconvenience, the position of the hand on the bar will be quite stable. After 10-20 hits from different positions (near the boards, ball distance from the board, 3 balls away from the board, from the middle point) it will become clear exactly where your hand is on the turnjac in 90% of the strokes. Ideally, the distance found from the heel to the little finger on the turnyak should be close to the width of the palm. Thus, if the distance turned out to be large, then you can calculate how much shorter you need to purchase a cue by subtracting from the width of your palm obtained as a result of measuring the distance.
The most unexpected discovery for many (even experienced) billiards fans will be that the ideal cue length is the one that is most convenient for applying the bulk of the blows and is not limited to generally accepted standards. Many tall players of various (even professional) levels play cues less than 160cm.
I draw your attention to the fact that reducing the length of the cue (in the event that the cue is already available) by about 2 cm does not lead to a deterioration in the playing properties of the cue, and, moreover, can even improve the playing characteristics. "Shortening" the same cue by a large amount, it is desirable to coordinate with the master who made this product. Among other things, any work on changing the characteristics of the product, "tuning", and even installing a sticker is best left to professionals.
It is also possible to change the parameters of the cue by redistributing the weight. This method allows you not to resort to changing the length of the cue.

Regarding weight:
The weight of the cue for Russian billiards varies around the 700g mark. The choice of weight is a subjective parameter and disputes about it do not subside. You need to understand that there is no direct connection between the weight of the cue and the force with which the ball “breaks through” new pockets in the sides of the billiard table. Given the physical laws and properties of the wood used in the manufacture of modern "master" cues, we can say with confidence that it makes no sense to make a cue for RP heavier than 720g.
In Jack Kellner's Billiards with scientific point vision” states that the kinetic energy received by the cue ball from the impact depends on the speed of impact and the weight of the cue. Therefore, a cue that is heavier does not have the same speed as a lighter cue to transfer the same amount of energy to the cue ball. Although the difference is not significant, the author of the book concludes that the lightest cue has the greatest control over the speed of the cue ball, while at the same time the heavier cue provides less cue speed, which, accordingly, will lead to greater control of the deflection and direction of the cue ball.
It is easier for beginners to handle a cue with a relatively heavy weight, since it is this factor that affects the control of the accuracy of the strike and the deflection of the cue ball than a light cue will be used. With the improvement of the technique of the game, when the speed of impact is in priority, it will be possible to use a lighter weight cue.

After choosing the length, balance, weight, design of the cue, you need to start choosing a master who will bring these ideas to life or choose a ready-made cue in which all the characteristics are close to those you are looking for. It is important to note that it is the skill of the master, his skillful hands, that make the greatest contribution to the playing properties of the instrument. Even the most expensive breeds used by an inept craftsman in the manufacture of a cue will not add play properties to it. And vice versa: even the simplest breeds will "play" in the finished product if they are selected, processed, assembled and glued skillful hands highly qualified craftsman.

Preparing a billiard cue for the game

The basic factor in achieving success in billiards, of course, is the skill of the player. However, many other components can also affect the achievement of a positive result and victory over an opponent. Some of them are correct selection and competent preparation of a billiard cue for the game. It is especially important to properly sharpen the tip of the cue. In this article, I will show you how to do it.

To give the tip of the cue the desired shape, you must use a specially designed tool for sharpening the tip of the cue. Its name is Shaper.

Initially, you need to form the correct cue circumference and choose the type of tip that you want. There are two types of cue tips: through and in the form of a cap. The shaper allows you to give the tip of the cue any look.

Depending on what you want to get, place the cue inside the tool on the desired side. After that, rotate the cue in a circle, keeping it inside the shaper. During rotation, you do not need to put pressure on the shaft: its own weight is enough.

After you have obtained the shape of the tip you need, you need to grind its edges. To do this, use the sides of the shaper.

The final step will be grinding the irregularities formed on the tip of the cue. Insert the cue stick into the space between the two ends of the tool, rotate it until all the bumps are removed.

After these three is enough simple procedures Your cue is ready to play. It must be remembered that over time, the tip of the cue wears out, and new irregularities form on it. And also the tip may not stick to the cue as firmly as it was originally. Therefore, it is recommended to periodically tamp the tip of the cue with a drill or similar tool. Irregularities need to be polished using a shaper.

If you treat the cue with care and keep it in perfect condition, you will be able to reach good results in the game and become a real master. Happy training and happy playing.

The playing qualities of a billiard cue directly depend on how and from what it was made. Let's talk a little about how cues are made in modern workshops.

What are cues made of?

What are cues made of?

All materials must be of high quality, the dried wood used is carefully selected and processed, it must not have knots or cracks. As a rule, the material is prepared in advance, then it is given time to “curl”, and only after that they start processing and actually making a billiard cue - a playing instrument. All bars that have led or that have shown some other defect are eliminated.

What wood are cues made from?

Almost all high-quality billiard cues are made from several valuable breeds tree high density. For the manufacture of the turnyakovy and typesetting (saw) part of the cue, hard and very hard wood is used, for example, sapelli, amaranth, limewood, padauk, black hornbeam, wenge, lemongrass, rosewood, bakote, cocobolo, macassar, ebony and a number of other materials. At the same time, “cuts” of different types of wood can be connected, which positively affects the playing properties of the cue. The cuts can be different shapes: classic - Viennese, web, crown, flower, tulip and others. Shafts Kyiv self made made only from hornbeam. Factory cues are usually made from maple.

Making a handmade cue

The first stage after the selection of materials is sawing (or blanking of glued parts). The parts of the cue prepared at this stage are glued together. At the same time, when making a handmade cue, the composition of the glue can also be changed in such a way that its hardness after drying is equal to the hardness of wood. Then the billiard cue will transmit the impact energy without distortion. The blanks are glued together under pressure. After gluing, the cue blanks are sent to the dryer, where they rest for some time. And only after that, the processing of the cue itself begins: all its parameters, dimensions are set, and a shape is given. If we are talking about a two-piece cue, then a twist is inserted. At the same stage, weight is added and the balance of the cue is done. What is important - at this stage, all actions are usually performed manually, using skins, blades, planers, without using a lathe. Why? Because, according to the masters, turning in the preparation of the future cue, a huge amount of internal stresses of the wood arise, even if they are small - but they can greatly affect the playing qualities of the cue. In good workshops, they try to avoid this. After that, the cue is cleaned. A logo, inlay or almost any image of the customer's choice is applied to it - up to rhinestones. In the case of factory cues, a logo is usually applied. After that, the cue is covered with wax or varnish and polished. Each cue is tested: buying a handmade cue, you can be sure of its high playing qualities.

Making a cue in the factory is faster and easier. At industrial production cue gluing is not performed, turnyak and shaft are made of maple on a lathe. The next step works lathe governed by computer program. The cue is given the desired shape. The drawing is applied - also on the machine. After that, the twist is installed and the turnyak can be attached to the shaft. Next, the cue is varnished - again automatically.

Characteristics of wood species for billiard cues:

Ramin: density - 670 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.0

Maple: density - 650 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 4.0

Hornbeam

Beech: density - 650 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.8

Oak: density - 700 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.8

Ash

Lemon: density - 700 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.6

Amarilla: density - 800 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 4.5

Karelian bareza: density - 700 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.5

Sapelli

Lacewood: density - 650 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.5

paduk: density - 750 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.8

Furnambuc: density - 800 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 7.2

Amaranth: density - 870 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 5.0

Sucupira: density - 900 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 4.9

redhart: density - 900 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 5.8

black hornbeam: density - 750 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.5

Bog oak: density - 950 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 5.7

wenge: density - 850 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 4.2

Palmyra: density - 700 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 4.0

Tulipwood: density - 860 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 4.5

Zebrano: density - 770 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.3

Rosewood: density - 900 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 5.5

Bakote: density - 940 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 5.5

cocobolo: density - 850 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 4.3

Zeerikot: density - 950 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 6.0

Kingwood: density - 990 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 4.4

Grenadil: density - 1080 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 7.0

Macassar: density - 1100 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 6.5

Eben: density - 1150 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 8.0

flaming ebony: density - 1200 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 8.0

moon ebony: density - 1250 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 8.0

Bokout: density - 1300 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 8.1

snake tree: density - 1350 kg / m 3, Brinell hardness - 8.3

Samples of wood for making handmade cues (coating - varnish and coating - wax):

Hold the cue at hip level with your dominant hand. Grasp the mark on the cue with one hand, closer to the far part of it. There is usually symbol. Grab your hand approximately 10.2 to 12.7 cm from the end of the cue. Ideally, the farthest hand should form a 90-degree angle with the cue.

• Most beginners grip the cue too tightly. Keep the cue relaxed but in control.
• Your body must be in line with the cue ball. This will help you aim correctly for the strike.
• Keep the cue big and index fingers, you can connect the middle one if you want to give the blow more power.

How to straighten a cue

Take a solid board, the cue is attached to it first with a thick end using a strong rope. At the place of curvature (determined in advance by rolling the cue on flat surface), between the board and the cue we put a spacer (for example, a simple pencil). Pull the other end of the cue to the board. We do not pay attention to the fact that the bend is decent. It should be 2-3 times larger (and, of course, directed towards opposite side) than the curvature itself. Adjust this to the thickness of the spacer.

The second way to straighten the cue.

We use a professional hair dryer for this purpose. We set the temperature to the maximum (> 400 degrees centigrade), but I heat the wood to 50-60 degrees (maybe more, but you have to be careful, cauterization of the wood is possible), in order not to burn the wood, you need to "drive" the nozzle and maintain a distance. The heating distance is up to 10 cm, the frequency of scanning the cue surface increases with decreasing distance. As a rule, only the convex side is subject to heating, but with a significant capture of the areas adjacent to the convexity.

We focus on heating the bulge. At the same time, the bulge is mechanically pressed between two points of support and warmed up for 1.5-2 minutes. If the cue is collapsible, then you need to edit each part separately. Mark the convex side with a pencil. We take an old shoe, rest one end on it, and the other on the floor (preferably not a pile carpet, so as not to burn), press down next to the bulge and warm it up. Next, put on the surface and rotate again. When everything converges, it is necessary to perform an important operation - to relieve tension in the tree. To do this, we take a "cloth" or a piece of flannel and vigorously rub the entire shaft (or cue) until it is evenly heated, this cannot be done with a hairdryer. We check on the plane. If there is curvature, it is necessary to repeat everything until we achieve the desired result.

How to make a sticker

Let's take the skin (thick from old boots, for example), sand it with sandpaper to make it thinner, then chop or cut it with scissors, degrease it with Acetone and smear it with glue with a moment, glue it again and fold it into layers, and into your device, and tighten the nuts harder.

According to the experiences of some craftsmen, after several months of playing with a 4-layer sticker, not found fundamental differences from a cheap store sticker, and the 6-layer one turned out to be softer. Factory stickers have a rounded shape, and home-made ones turned out to be flat and therefore the ball vented a little worse, you can make a small rounded recess in the lower part so that the sticker takes the desired shape from pressure, as for the glue, it turns out you need quite a bit, layers between each other and without glue stick together well from pressure.

Good afternoon, dear readers!

Examples of cues made in Shatov's workshop

Thanks to a happy coincidence, the other day I managed to visit an amazing place - in unique carpentry workshop, which is engaged exclusively in the manufacture of cues for billiards. And not just billiards, but Russian. And not just Kiev, but exclusive handmade cues. And in general, this is not an ordinary workshop, but the workshop of one of the best craftsmen for the manufacture of handmade cues in our country - workshop of Ivan Shatov.

workshop manager Ivan Shatov at work

The workshop team received me very warmly and with great pleasure shared with me all the subtleties of the process of making cues. Alexey Shatov conducted an exciting tour of the workshop for me. Today I will share this valuable knowledge with you.

general form workshop

master Alexey Shatov

The most important thing about a cue is the material from which it is made. The tree must meet many criteria: first of all, it must be both super-strong and very flexible. In addition, handmade cues are real works of art, which is largely achieved through the use of several types of wood with different grain structures and colors. Due to such stringent requirements, the range of wood species used is quite limited and is represented mainly exotic breeds. For example, the impact part of the cue (shaft) is in most cases made of hornbeam (density 750 kg/m3). The rest of the cue can be made from rosewood, merbau, wenge, padauk, coco-bolo, ebony and even the heaviest tree in the world, snakewood (1400 kg/m3). The quality of workmanship, the combination of breeds and, ultimately, the beauty of the product depends entirely on the imagination and skills of the master.

material for cues - bars of valuable breeds

The wood is delivered to the workshop in the form of blanks, which have previously undergone a long process of natural drying (for some species, this period can reach a year or even more). The raw material stays in the workshop long before it is used: already dried bars must be aged for at least three months directly in the workshop before they go into work - to establish the necessary humidity.

planer-thickness machine

First of all, a blank is made from a bar right size. In this case, a high-precision planer-thickness machine is used. Due to the high density of the processed wood, the machine knives wear out several times faster than when processing soft wood. At the output of this stage, perfectly even blanks 30x30mm in size are obtained.

sawing the desired angle on a band saw

Next, the workpiece goes to band saw with the thinnest blades (0.35mm) - to ensure the cleanest cut. The photo shows that with the help of a tsulagi (special device), washed down occurs at a special, strictly specified angle. This angle itself is hallmark masters and each master has his own.

knives for finishing the part after the band saw

Despite thin blade, the band saw is not able to cut the desired shape - there will always be a right angle (step) at the end of the cut. To bring the cut to perfection, custom-made knives are used that have exactly the blade angle that is required.

final fine-tuning hand tool

perfectly precise connection

Then, in the same way for band saw similar elements are cut from other breeds or a different size, depending on the master's intention. After that, the entire workpiece is placed in clamps for gluing. To splice elements into a single whole, it is used epoxy resin. Resin is better than glue for this type of work, as it has a longer setting time (about 30 minutes) - it is possible to slowly, accurately assemble the workpiece. In addition, PVA glue has some elasticity even after hardening, which is unacceptable for a cue, as it can give additional play. The resin, after curing, is completely monolithic.

the workpiece is clamped into clamps when gluing

After the final hardening of the resin (in a week), the workpiece is prepared for next step- processing on a lathe.

workpiece before turning

the workpiece is placed in a lathe

One of the key steps is the selection the right amount lead for cue handle. The cue is balanced in a special way. Often, when making a cue to order, the customer has wishes, including the desired weight of the cue.

lead rod

Finishing grinding is carried out exclusively by hand on a special self-made abrasive stand. Painting is carried out at the request of the customer: it can be varnished or natural oil, which is the most popular at present.

accessories for finishing manual grinding cue

Also in the workshop there was a place for a machine with CNC control. It has a carving cutter and a burnout laser. It is mainly used to apply the brand of the master to an already almost finished cue.

CNC machine

examples of works by Shatov's workshop

I express my gratitude to the workshop team for excellent opportunity get acquainted with the process of making cues, with the workshop itself and with finished products!

Dear readers, tomorrow you will find the most exciting part of the report - photos finished works Shatov's workshop. Who can't wait for tomorrow, look right now at