Arrangement of ventilation in the steam room in the Russian bath. How to do ventilation in a Russian bath: general rules and detailed schemes for the device. How to make ventilation in a steam room with a separate firebox

There is already a large review material on our website, so now it’s worth talking separately about the hood in the bath: how it works, how it works and how to make it yourself.

Hood in the bath: depending on which bath

Baths are built from the most different materials, each of which has its own characteristics. This also affects the ventilation systems, which have their own characteristics in each case. We will talk about their differences in terms of organization below.

Extractor in the sauna

A sauna or a Finnish bath differs from a Russian one in a small amount of steam (this is practically a dry bath) and a high temperature (which can reach up to 130 degrees!). During your stay in the sauna, there is a clear rule regarding ventilation: the air must be changed at least 6-8 times per hour. And this requires good controllability of air flows, replacing exhaust air with fresh air less than every 10 minutes.

Ideal option for a sauna, (convection type). Let us briefly repeat that it operates on the principle of an “inverted glass”:

• ventilation box, standing diagonally from the oven, takes in ambient air;
• brings it out through the roof (wall);
• below, next to the stove, there is an inlet through which Fresh air;
• the oven heats the oxygenated air, it rises and is distributed throughout the sauna.

Flow regulation is carried out with the help of dampers that regulate the openness of the box and the inlet. An important point at the same time is Full time job furnace, because it is she who performs the function of a "pump".

And even if the hood in the sauna is done according to a different scheme, the task will remain the same:

• controlled frequent air exchange;
• good warming up incoming fresh air;
• impermissibility fast air currents (more than 0.3 m / s), i.e. drafts.

In a log cabin

The log house was invented long before the laws of physics on which the natural ventilation. Nevertheless, the builders of log baths actively used these laws so that the owners of the bath would not suffocate in the process of soaring, and the bath would stand for decades due to it. (Of course, the hood in the log cabin will not save her from a fire, but from rot - it may well.) In the log house, the air flow was provided by the lower rims, which were intentionally laid freely, that is, they had slots through which fresh air was “stretched”. In addition, the door to the steam room below did not fit snugly against the floor.

Depending on how exactly the bath from the log house was heated - “in black” or “in white” - it also depended on where the exhaust air went.

• In a heated "black" bathhouse, the stove does not work during the soaring process, so an open window or door was used for outflow.
• In the melted "white" bath, the outflow was carried out through the chimney. The oven was working.

In principle, nothing prevents organizing the ventilation of the log house in the traditional way today. But it is necessary to decide quickly, even at the construction stage. Because more modern solution should be included in the project. Alternatively, you can punch holes (supply and exhaust) directly onto the street and supply them with plugs or dampers. One is next to the stove blower, the second is above the upper shelf on the adjacent or opposite side. Or make two exhaust holes - one above, the other below the top shelf. Another option is to make blinds at the bottom of the steam room door, and an exhaust hole under the ceiling of the shower room.

IMPORTANT! If there is no desire to make an exit to the street, you can lay air ducts, but then you will have to install a system instead of a natural one. forced ventilation.

In a foam block bath

A foam block bath is no exception to the rule that you need to think about ventilation when designing a bath. It's easier than hitting finished walls. To provide a bath cellular concrete sufficient air circulation, which will relieve the structure of excess moisture, it is necessary at the time of pouring the foundation formwork to lay pipe trimmings, which will then become air ducts.

For a bath that is not located in a lowland and is not surrounded on all sides by buildings, two air ducts on opposite sides are enough, otherwise they are made 4. Do not forget about ventilation gaps between walls and insulation.

The roof must also be ventilated, receiving inflow from the roof overhangs and giving air through the raised ridge. In the premises, supply and exhaust openings are made according to one of the standard schemes.

In case of insufficient natural ventilation, it is recommended to install fans on the hood from the foam block bath.

Extract for a bath: in which department?

If we leave aside the issues of ventilation of walls, foundations and roofs already discussed in other articles, there are rooms - a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room and a rest room - where you need to organize air circulation. At the same time, there are certain standards regarding ventilation in each of them and the specifics of the manufacture of the hood. But first things first.

Extractor in the steam room

For those who soar, the extract in the steam room of the bath is a guarantee that they will come out of there alive and healthy.

IMPORTANT! You can not leave the steam room without ventilation holes at all, this is a big risk of getting black or losing consciousness and suffocating with carbon dioxide. Can't just make one hole- so the ventilation does not work.

The method of ventilation of the steam room can be natural (due to the laws of physics) or forced (due to fans). Openings can lead to the street, to air ducts and to neighboring rooms. On the ventilation openings, either blinds or dampers are placed. Air inflow can be organized through the bottom of the steam room door, spaced 3 cm from the floor or with blinds at the bottom of the door leaf.

With your own hands you will have to make only a box. Everything else (corrugation, valves, gate valves, dampers) is on sale. Fans (if needed) vary in diameter and power. Relays can be used to automatically control forced ventilation. Holes in the wall are either left during construction, or they make their way in an already built bath.

Useful video

See how the craftsmen made a box for extracting ventilation from the boards:

In the washing

According to the already mentioned standards, the air circulation in the washing room per hour should be a multiple of 8 room volumes for supply ventilation and 9 - for the hood. It means:

• that the dimensions of the exhaust opening will be more inlet;
• or exhaust will be two on one supply;
• or put on the hood fan.

In any case, this is an intensive air exchange, which is intended primarily for quickly draining the car wash. During the washing process, it is not required, so it is regulated by dampers.

By the way, air inlets can be made in the dressing room or rest room, and exhaust holes in the washing room. This will allow you to ventilate two rooms at once. Similarly, the hood is done in the bathroom, and forced to create low pressure. Then the air will be drawn from the neighboring rooms and leave through the forced exhaust. Thus, the rooms are connected by through holes, which on the one hand will be supply, and on the other - exhaust.

Components of the hood in washing bath do not differ from those used in the steam room.

How to make an extract in the bath

This has been said many times before, but it's worth repeating: the cost of arranging ventilation will increase many times if it is done late after completion of construction. At the same time, the principle of creating ventilation in the bath remains unchanged: it is necessary to create conditions for the inflow and outflow of air from the premises. So, how to make a hood in the bath with your own hands or the hands of professionals.

Hood in the bath: scheme

There are many schemes, but any one is suitable for understanding the principle of ventilation. Most often, ventilation schemes for the steam room are offered, but the scheme for the entire bath, with explanations, is of much greater interest.

Look at the sketch. It shows that ventilation is carried out in the washing room, steam room and rest room. Moreover, the air flow is carried out from one pipe to two points, one of which is located in the steam room, and the second - in the rest room. The hood is located in the washing room, and in the steam room, and in the rest room. Let's describe all the ventilation devices in each room:

1. washing- a window made of metal-plastic, an adjustable hood that takes air through a diffuser located on the ceiling. From there, the air escapes through a pipe to the roof.
2. steam room- an insulated window located below the shelf, an adjustable hood, which is a vertical box, the intake hole of which is 150 cm² located below the shelf, and the exit from the pipe to the street is near the ceiling. One of the channels of regulated inflow near the stove, cross-sectional area 150 cm².
3. Restroom- adjustable hood, which is a box with a cross section of 150 cm², the height of the intake hole is 30-40 cm from the floor, exit through the pipe to the street near the ceiling. Regulated inflow through the second channel with an exit near a furnace fire chamber.

DIY: how to do it right

Do-it-yourself exhaust in the bath is not something that cannot be done, but you need to approach the matter prudently and slowly. In order to independently make the hood, you need to prepare materials according to it. It is also necessary to calculate the cross section of the ventilation pipes.

IMPORTANT! The inflow volume must be equal to or less than the exhaust volume.

To do this, you need to know the volume of the room and the multiplicity factor (how many times the air should be updated per hour) - it is in the regulations. In the main air ducts, the speed of movement should not exceed 5 m / s, in the branches - 3 m / s, in the steam room - 2 m / s, natural ventilation - up to 1 m / s. Further in the table we find the value of the pipe section, which most closely gives the desired volume at a given speed.

Knowing the cross section, it remains to prepare a corrugation or pipes of the appropriate diameter, which at one end are mounted indoors at the desired height according to the scheme, and with the other they go outside. Self-tapping screws, metal tape and polyurethane foam are used for fastening. The openings are supplied with shutters in the room, gratings at the exit. By the way, ventilation should be cleaned once a year..

Useful video

Watch a short video showing ventilation in one bath:

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Well, now you know exactly how to properly draw a hood in the bath in order to save yourself, your household and guests from suffocation in the bath. It remains only to correctly apply the information received.

In contact with

Like any construction project, the Russian bath is being built according to the project. It is necessary to provide for the arrangement of ventilation for comfortable adoption of procedures, achieving a healing effect, and ensuring the durability of the design of the bath itself.

The specifics of air ventilation in the bath

Ventilation in a Russian bath from a bar with a heater, leaks between the stacked logs and gaps between the threshold and the door occurs naturally. You don't need to think of anything extra. Another thing is if the room is built of brick, concrete, foam block, etc. The heat-shielding functions of wood are replaced by additional thermal insulation. Although, in a bath of foam blocks, it retains heat no worse than in wooden frame.

A modern building called a bathhouse is a zoned room, lined from the inside with the same eco-friendly wood. The Russian bath is distinguished by the generation of hot steam. Under its influence, the body releases toxins, salts, washed off with water. For a long stay in the same steam room with a large crowd of people, fresh air is needed.

Important! Proper ventilation in the bath must comply with the requirements of GOST 21.602-79 and SNiP 2.04.05-91 for heating, air conditioning and ventilation.

In particular, ensure at least two complete air replacements every hour. Moreover, this is also true during the downtime of the structure: the wet surfaces inside must dry completely, the wood does not rot, its appearance is preserved.

Ventilation in the bath and dressing room - channel layout

Thus, the ventilation device in the bath provides:

• an additional source of heating for the dressing room when the air duct with hot air passes through it;
• adjusting the speed of air flows (incoming and outgoing);
• regulation of their movement: air must circulate from the steam room outside it, but not towards the dressing room or resting place;
• correct installation of the hood (above the roof) for effective removal vapors with any type of ventilation;
• grid positioning: 0.5 m from the top layer of soil with natural air movement, at least 2 m - with mechanical ventilation;
• increased air exchange efficiency when combined various kinds ventilation.

Air exchange in different zones

dressing room

Ventilation in the dressing room when installing a stove in it is the simplest and most effective type of air exchange. Air circulates through the furnace. But the proximity of the room to the steam room leads to the deposition of condensate on surfaces: walls, ceiling. To save wooden cladding, to prevent its rotting, the dressing room is well insulated. Drafts are excluded. It is necessary to maintain the dimensions established by the norms: for 1 washable at least 1.3 sq.m. area. The most simple circuit ventilation in the bath for this room is reduced to the removal of exhaust air masses through the bathroom or washing area. But it is best to provide a forced type of air exchange in the dressing room.

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room

Complete replacement of air in the steam room should occur 3 times per hour (at least). This is due to oxygen deficiency during bathing procedures and its constant replenishment by ventilating the room. Air is sucked in from below at a height of 1.5 m from the floor directly from the street, and not from interior spaces. If a stove is located in the steam room, dampers that specifically regulate the flow of air, a valve for ventilation in the steam room, etc., then these are natural ways to regulate air exchange. Air exchange can also be controlled by adjusting the duct section. The movement of air streams of different temperatures depends on the places where the ventilation holes are arranged. The layout in the steam room is on one wall, but on different heights or on opposing wall surfaces at different levels.

Attention! To prevent drafts, do not equip vents at the same level opposite each other.

IN the best option the arrangement of air vents is carried out as low as possible: this way heat is better retained. But for the intensity of the exchange of air masses in the steam room, it is necessary to equip forced ventilation (deflector, fan).

Determining the ventilation system in the bath

Being engaged in construction on your own, you need to know how to make ventilation in the bath so that it:

• did not interfere with the rapid heating of the room;
• effectively removed carbon dioxide, fuel combustion products;
• provided complete ventilation in the shortest possible time.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath can be aeration, mechanical or combined. Depending on this, the location of the channels and their size are selected. The volume of air flow is directly proportional to the cross section of the channel. The system should be assembled even when the base is being formed. The transport air duct is available with a square or round section. In the latter case, it, like the junction box, can be made from plastic pipe 100 mm. The outlet and inlet openings are closed with a fine-mesh insert, preventing debris and insects from entering the pipe.

Popular ventilation schemes

• The supply air gap is located at the bottom on the wall opposite the stove. The blower plays the role of an exhaust hood, subject to the constant functioning of the stove during bath procedures.
• Scheme with openings into the wall along the inflow and exhaust in the steam room on the same wall, but at different levels: 0.3 m from the ceiling, air removal, 0.3 m from the floor - inflow.
• The same distances (30 cm each) for inflow and exhaust, but air enters the steam room immediately behind the stove, and is removed through a channel on the opposite wall.
• The inflow is behind the stove (0.3 m from the floor), the exhaust with forced air removal using a fan is opposite on the wall, below at the same height.

Algorithm for the device of a system with a fan

Step by Step Installation Guide combined option provides for increased fresh air injection by a special wide-bladed fan.

• To work, you will need tools: a hacksaw, a drill, three-wire wiring, etc.
• A fan of rated power and performance is purchased.
• In a wooden frame, a drill with a special funnel makes adjacent holes.
• With the help of a hacksaw, the membranes between them are cut off, the holes are combined into one hole.
• In the same way, the channel for the inlet (outlet) of air is made.
• The vector of motion of the air flow is experimentally checked. For this, the holes are all clogged, the stove is heated. When the temperature in the bath exceeds +50°C, the holes open. Air flows are being studied.
• Rigid wiring is laid in a waterproof corrugated sheath to power the fan using an RCD.
• A fan is installed in the center of the vent. Attaches with screws.
• Dampers are manufactured or purchased to prevent heat loss, reduce the heating time of the stove. Inserted into fixed skids or mounted on hinges. If the bath is located autonomously, the shutters are also hung from the side of the street.

Important! All fittings for installation work must be made of stainless material, and the fan must be made of heat-resistant polyamide, which can withstand heating up to 130°C.

So, do you need ventilation in the bath - yes, you need it. Is it possible to arrange it yourself without the use of complex equipment - yes, quite. But, with the obligatory study theoretical foundations, project development and drawing up a scheme for the production of works.

To determine the value of ventilation in the bath know its purpose:

1. Rapid heating of the room, uniform distribution of heat. Savings in heating costs.
2. Constant air renewal during soaring. This is necessary for the comfort and health of vacationers.
3. Rapid removal of moist air. Implementation of mandatory drying of the premises.
4. Preservation of the building for a longer time. No fungi or mold appear. Objects are not deformed, do not change color under the influence of moisture.

No or insufficient ventilation unpleasant odors gradually accumulate in the room, the air becomes damp. Fresh air is not supplied, it becomes difficult to breathe. There is a risk of poisoning by the accumulated carbon monoxide. Without ventilation, gradually all warm air will go up, and cooling down will accumulate below.

Proper ventilation system in the baths

In baths made of natural logs any punching of holes to provide ventilation is considered superfluous. The lower crowns of the walls are laid with the installation of holes through which a moderate amount of fresh air passes. If there is a stove-heater in which the blower is simultaneously designed to bring air out, you can limit yourself to its presence. They let in air through the open door, a gap of 5-7 mm is enough.

Ventilation is designed for regular entry into the bath of fresh air, outflow of cooled and moist. For fresh air flow need to build vents. If they are not, then you can use the vents, doors. The hood also takes place through special holes; great importance in the outflow of steam has a chimney. In order to be able to fully control the air exchange, the openings are equipped with shutters, by adjusting which you can stop or resume the flow and exit of air.

There is a wide range of ventilation systems:

1. For inlet and outlet located opposite each other, one level is used. In some cases, the low placement of the inlet helps to retain heat for a longer time. To activate the air exchange, a fan is installed, an air duct or a deflector can also be used. You can not place holes with an exact match in level. As a result of the rapid release of air, accumulations of cold at the bottom and warm in the rest of the bath can form.
2. The air currents directed by the operating ventilation device lower the pressure inside the duct. Exhaust air is drawn out due to a decrease in pressure inside the bath. To raise the pressure again, fresh air is supplied.
3. The vents can be positioned in this way: the supply air is 30 cm from the floor, the outlet located opposite does not reach the ceiling by 30 cm. Fresh air immediately heats up from the stove, rises, gradually leaving the room.

To ensure constant control over the speed and volume of incoming and outgoing air, dampers are created. It is advisable to make them retractable, slightly opening to the required distance. The length of the duct is determined by the dimensions of the bath, as well as the maximum volume of required incoming air.

When the room is only heated with a preheated stove, all openings should be covered. When the temperature becomes optimal for vaping, the shutters open slightly and are immediately regulated so that the air exchange does not change the temperature in the room. Both inlet and outlet openings must have a connector close to the same. To make the influx of fresh air stronger, you can slightly increase the outlet.

The inlet connector must not be larger than the outlet. This leads to a reverse draft, which contributes to the release of fresh air from the bath, and not its active circulation.

Ventilation in the Russian bath

In a classic bath, created according to the Russian model, no special holes, so air exchange should be performed in a more natural way. Normally, conventional ventilation is used to supply fresh air. You can open the door leading to the street and the window opposite to it. Sometimes forced extraction is used when open door. To better get rid of the accumulated dampness, you should sweep the leaves from the broom in a timely manner. Benches and other wooden objects can be dried when wet, sometimes sheets are swept. These procedures will not allow the formation of heavy steam, remove unpleasant odors and decay products from the room.

After the bath is ventilated and dried, need to start steaming. To do this, pour water on the stones in small portions. The prepared steam rises quickly and stays there for a long time, so it may turn out that it is already very hot at the top, and still cool at the bottom. With a strong temperature difference, you can wait until the steam sinks or use artificial methods to lower it.

It is enough to work with brooms to create movement in the steam room, the air will immediately mix. Waves with a towel or broom should be carried out closer to the ceiling.

You can make a fan: wooden handle a loop is located of stainless steel over which the fabric is stretched. Horizontal or vertical movements are made by this device to move warm and cold air. Sometimes they begin to use it in the manufacture of steam. To do this, one person pours water on the stones, and the second works with a fan.

in the steam room

In classical bath ventilation schemes, it is assumed air flow in the steam room from below. The hole is usually located below half a meter from the floor. The hood can be placed close to the ceiling by equipping a hole on the opposite wall. The regulation of the level of humidity and heat of the air is carried out by extending or closing the shutters.

The best option, especially for a small steam room, is to create an air inlet next to the stove. This is necessary to instantly heat the incoming fresh air. This arrangement will not allow strong drafts to form, helps to avoid big difference temperatures in different parts of the steam room. The heat from the steam room can not only be taken outside, but also moved to other rooms for their high-quality heating.

Proper ventilation works by bringing fresh air under the box. Air masses leave the device through the top opening. The steam room warms up quite evenly until the warm air reaches the bottom of the box. Hot air will gradually displace colder air, providing warming before leaving the room. The steam room simultaneously heats up and dries out.

In the bathhouse

The ventilation channel is directly connected to the duct, the diameter of which usually exceeds the chimney by no more than 20%. With such parameters, oxygen fills the room, and does not leave it. Air intake from the underground is not needed.

The walls of the stove, if it is in the dressing room, should be close to the floor. Shelves are not necessarily placed in a strictly horizontal position. They are able to slow down the rise of heat to the ceiling. For better absorption of warm air, it is better to equip the stove with several chimneys.

Sometimes during the heating of the bath in the room a large amount of smoke is formed and retained. This means that inside the dressing room the air is colder than in environment. Cold air is somewhat more massive than warm air, so it often creates a shell in chimneys. In order to push out this air, it is necessary to equip an additional door for burning ash.

Forced ventilation

Ventilation in the bath with electronic systems carried out if it is impossible to provide good air circulation in natural ways. Fans can be installed on both supply and exhaust openings. They accelerate the movement of air masses, providing the room with fresh air, quickly removing moist.

Exhaust ventilation

In the design of this ventilation is always present exhaust fan. For air circulation, a supply air is also necessarily constructed. Sometimes cracks in the walls are used for fresh air to enter, windows or doors are slightly opened. Dignity exhaust ventilation is to reduce the pressure in the bath. The action must be compensated by a constant flow of air from outside.

Ventilation with a powerful hood perfectly removes harmful gases, wet air with an unpleasant odor. It is possible to build such a ventilation system not only in the steam room, but also in showers, washing rooms, departments with a pool or in bathrooms. Usually in the basic set of exhaust ventilation system Includes fan and box. If the device is too noisy, a silencer can be used.

Forced ventilation

It is installed according to the exhaust principle, however the fan must be placed on the inlet. When activated supply system ventilation, there is an increase in pressure in the room, which should be compensated in a timely manner by the release of air through the hood or gaps in the walls, floor, ceiling, through the windows, the door.

Supply fans are not considered convenient if they will operate in cold temperatures. In winter, they supply icy air, which must be additionally heated by pre-installed air heaters. If necessary, cleansing a large number air filters can be used.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

Combination of artificial inflow and exhaust air is often equipped with recuperators, silencers, filters. Additional devices provide comfort while in the bath, at the same time there is a constant, good air circulation. In order not to worry about ventilation, you can equip it with an automatic control unit.

Creating a design for supply and exhaust artificial ventilation often causes difficulties. It is necessary to calculate the optimal air exchange in all rooms of the bath at the design stage. The amount of outgoing air must match the incoming air. Sometimes air flows are not specifically balanced. To prevent the spread of excessive moisture or bad smell pressure is artificially reduced from a certain room in it. To do this, the hood is mounted with greater intensity than in other rooms.

When arranging ventilation in the bath, you should take care not only of the steam room, but also of other important rooms. To save heating costs, you can use the warm air generated in the steam room, taking it out not to the street, but through other rooms. By adapting the ventilation system to specific requests, you can make the most successful option.

Russian bath is very beneficial for health. The fundamental point in its construction is well-equipped ventilation in the bath in the steam room. In this room, as a rule, very heat and humidity. Properly organized air circulation is a necessary condition.

Often, many homeowners doubt whether ventilation is needed in the bath in the steam room. The proposed material will allow you to correctly answer this question and solve all the problems with the arrangement of ventilation without much difficulty and without significant material costs.

Ventilation in the steam room is necessary for air circulation

Why do you need ventilation in the steam room

Proper ventilation of the sauna steam room helps to solve the following problems:

• maintaining comfortable temperature indoors;
• health safety;
• the preservation of the wood used for the interior decoration of the steam room.

If the ventilation of the steam room in the Russian bath is not properly equipped, the appearance of such negative factors as:

• rapid cooling of heated air;
• accumulation of gases during the adoption of procedures;
• premature decay of finishing materials;
• the appearance of harmful microbes, bacteria, mold, fungi;
• bad smell.

The proposed material will describe in detail what should be the right organized ventilation in the sauna steam room, video and photo materials will clearly illustrate all the key points.

Basic principles of steam room ventilation

A specific scheme for arranging ventilation is usually selected taking into account the architectural features of the building itself, the size, number of rooms, etc. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the basic principles for arranging ventilation systems for steam rooms in Russian baths. If they are violated, various negative phenomena can occur that create a serious threat to the health and life of vacationers.

The fresh air inlet is located just above the floor level. In order for the incoming air to warm up immediately, the inlet is located in the immediate vicinity of the furnace.

The outlet for used air is located under the ceiling. The main thing is that the inlet and outlet for air be equipped on opposite walls.

Important! Under no circumstances should these holes be placed at the same level! Air in inner space will not fully circulate. There will be a temperature difference that creates a serious health hazard.

The dimensions of the inlet and outlet holes are identical. They are selected depending on the dimensions of the internal space of the steam room. For 1 cu. m of air requires 24 cm of pipe diameter. If necessary, arrangement of additional air outlets is allowed.

The ventilation of the steam room is arranged in such a way that the exhaust air is completely replaced every 3-4 hours. This is required by sanitary and fire safety standards.

The ventilation device in the steam room of the bath requires the mandatory placement of a valve system. You can use special blinds for this. This will allow you to control the amount of air entering and exiting. If necessary, the bath can be heated or cooled very quickly and without much difficulty.

You need to think about how to make ventilation in the steam room of the bath already when drawing up a project. This will allow you to correctly place all ventilation pipes, openings, etc. during construction. This will allow you to properly equip the mines, lay pipes and perform all other work. Arrange the air circulation system after completion construction works will be much more difficult.

Varieties of ventilation systems for the steam room

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room (see photo) is used in 3 types - natural, forced (i.e. mechanical) and combined. The choice of a particular system is made taking into account factors such as:

• the size of the steam room and the dimensions of the building as a whole;
• it is possible to correctly place the exhaust pipes;
• the material from which the bath was built;
• bath use all year round or only during the summer season.

Warm air is lighter than cold air. Therefore, with properly equipped ventilation in the bath in the steam room, heated flows rise to the ceiling and are gradually drawn out through the vent. The air coming from the outside is immediately heated from the stove and passes into the room without creating a temperature difference. Here is the basic principle by which ventilation works in the bath in the steam room.

natural ventilation

The natural ventilation system provides air exchange due to different levels of pressure and temperature in the internal space (in the steam room) and outside, i.e. on the street. When the exhaust air exits through the outlet, the internal atmosphere in the room is discharged, creating conditions for drawing in cold air through the bottom inlet. In this case, you need Special attention devote to warming the bath. Otherwise, high-quality heating will not work.

Natural ventilation in the steam room frame bath it is most often used for small buildings built from breathable material, i.e. from wood. Additional elements The ventilation system in this case becomes small gaps in the log walls. The main advantage of natural ventilation is its low cost.

Forced and combined ventilation

A mechanical or forced ventilation system in a bath in a steam room is necessary if:

• the total area of ​​the bath is large;
• the building was built of brick, cinder blocks, stone;
• the steam room is very large;
• exhaust pipes cannot be placed correctly;
• heavy duty oven.

Do-it-yourself forced ventilation of the steam room of the bath is mounted without any problems. It uses:

• fans;
• supply valves;
• deflectors.

Nuance! The ventilation system in the bath in the steam room, heated with a geyser, requires the arrangement of a separate ventilation duct.

The combined ventilation system is equipped using elements of both systems described above. Fresh air enters naturally, i.e. through the lower inlet. Extraction of exhaust air masses is provided by mechanical devices.

How to choose a steam room fan

classic fan channel type not suitable for wigs. High temperature and humidity are detrimental to such devices. In the steam room, fans of a special design are used. The material for their manufacture is glass-filled polyamide. Such models are resistant to moisture and can withstand temperatures up to 130 ° C.

The fan model is selected in accordance with the technical specifications.

It should be remembered! Ordinary room fans can only be used for the final drying and airing of the steam room after the adoption of procedures and subsequent cleaning.

In the presence of Money you can install a self-regulating system for ventilation in the bath in the steam room. This device will automatically provide air inlet and outlet, temperature, humidity level. It is advisable to purchase such systems only from trusted manufacturers.

Basic schemes

What can be the ventilation in the steam room of the bath, the diagram, video and other materials attached below will show clearly. You just need to choose 1 of the 4 attached options and correctly perform all the necessary work.

According to scheme A, the fresh air inlet is arranged below the stove. The outlet channel is mounted on a directly opposite wall under the ceiling.

The exhaust pipe is installed vertically. Its length is calculated so that the upper edge of the pipe rises slightly above the roof ridge. This will ensure the normal functioning of the ventilation system during strong winds.

Properly selected sizes of pipes for exhaust air will ensure the natural circulation of air masses. Additional adjustment is provided by the installation of dampers.

The use of scheme B is assumed only if only 1 of the walls of the steam room can be used for arranging ventilation. Air openings are located opposite the heater. The inlet hole is raised 30 cm from the finished floor. The outlet window is lowered 20 cm from the ceiling.

The air passing through the bottom inlet is heated by the furnace and rises in the direction of the air outlet. Mechanical pulling devices are necessary for the normal functioning of the system.

According to scheme C, it is possible to provide ventilation not only for the steam room, but also for the underground space. The inlet hole is arranged in the wall behind the heater. It must be raised above the finished floor by 20 cm.

warmed up supply air passes into the basement through the cracks of the leaking floor. Then it returns to the steam room and moves towards the exhaust opening. From here, the exhausted air masses go outside.

For a constantly used bath, ventilation according to scheme D can be used. In this case, the inlet is arranged at the bottom, but opposite the stove, and not behind it, as in other options. Height above the floor - 20 cm. Extraction of exhaust air is provided by means of a blower and a chimney.

In order for the ventilation in the bath in the steam room to work effectively, it is necessary to choose the right location for the stove. It is most convenient to equip it inside the steam room. If the stove is located in an adjacent room, the efficiency of the ventilation system and the heater itself will be noticeably lower.

Preparatory work

To arrange ventilation in the steam room, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

• brick and/or stone;
• cement and sand;
• ventilation ducts;
• finished valves or material for their manufacture;
• a metal sheet;
• lining for lining the box;
• fixing material - nails, screws, self-tapping screws.

To work, you will need the following tools:

• hacksaw;
• Bulgarian;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• tape measure, level, plumb;
• construction mixer;
• drill or perforator;
• a set of spatulas;
• container for mixing the solution;
• technical knife;

Work is best done in special clothing. Wear gloves and a respirator if necessary.

Supply ventilation installation

The inlet channel for supplying fresh air is located in the immediate vicinity of the furnace. sauna stove. It is desirable that the inlet is located above the sheet metal cladding, which protects the wood from accidental ingress of small coals.

First of suitable material you need to make a box. Its dimensions should exceed the dimensions of the chimney by about 20%. The outer opening of the box is located on outer wall. It is undesirable to place it in the basement.

If the firebox is located in the actual steam room, a convection box is additionally equipped. At the wall in which the air inlet is located, you need to lay out a podium of bricks placed “on edge”. They are laid out in 3 rows - under the wall, in the middle and on the edge.

The masonry for the oven is arranged to a height of 25 cm. It must be brought to a brick screen and must be blocked. In order for the newly incoming air to pass directly into the furnace, it is better not to lay the last 2 bricks. The butt is lined with bricks.

The convection box is mounted to the end. At the end, a blower is equipped. Under it is a protective substrate for the safety of the floor covering.

When the podium is completely ready, you can start installing the furnace. For uniform distribution load, it is desirable to use a metal corner.

After the final installation, a stone or brickwork. To form a gap, it is moved 5-6 cm from the furnace. Next, a special screen is installed. It needs to form holes for the passage of hot air.

Installation of outflow ventilation

The outflow box is installed diametrically opposite from the inlet. It is raised above the finished floor by 30 cm. The inner area of ​​the box is approximately 1.25 m².

Through the wall, the outflow duct is led to the ceiling and an external outlet is equipped for it. You can remove the exhaust air to an adjacent room. In this way, it will be possible to warm it up without extra costs.

To avoid accidental burns, the chimney box must be lined with a brick or stone casing. At the same time, a special hole with a door must be left below, which will be a blower. An additional hole, equipped on top, will allow the chimney to be used as a heat pump, this will create both heating of the room and proper air circulation.

How to ventilate a Russian bath

The correct ventilation device in the steam room of the Russian bath does not involve the use of any mechanical devices. Otherwise, the heated air will be expelled very quickly. Efficiency and pleasure from bathing procedures will decrease significantly.

Therefore, the Russian bath must be carefully cleaned, ventilated and dried after each use. For ventilation, a special window is installed in the wall opposite the door. You can use a mechanical extractor. The door must be kept open for ventilation.

It is necessary to remove leaves from brooms and random objects from the beds. Then you need to wash all surfaces and dry them with towels and / or a special absorbent cloth. This will protect against the formation of mold and the reproduction of harmful microorganisms. After cleaning, airing and drying, the steam room is ready for further use.

How to warm up a Russian bath

First you need to fire up the oven. The outlet openings must be kept closed. Only input opens.

Warming up the room desired temperature, you need to open the valve of the lower air outlet pipe. This will ensure proper air circulation. The temperature will not drop.

Passing into the box from below, the heated air will gradually displace cool air masses to the outlet. When passing through the box, they will provide additional heating of the room. In parallel, the ventilation of the steam room will also take place.

If ventilation is not working properly

During the use of the steam room, it is necessary to periodically check the health of the ventilation system. With good air circulation in the steam room, it is always easy to breathe, the body heats up evenly, the temperature and humidity are maintained at the required level.

If the ventilation in the bath in the steam room was installed incorrectly or became unusable over time, signs such as:

• abundant condensation on vertical surfaces;
• mold, especially in the corners;
• putrid smell;
• uneven air heating;
• drafts;
• slow setting of the required temperature;
• excessively rapid heat loss;
• an unpleasant internal atmosphere that makes it difficult to breathe.

If at least 1 or 2 of the above factors are present, then the ventilation in the bath in the steam room is not properly equipped. Another option is clogging and / or damage to the system, the need for urgent repairs and / or thorough cleaning individual elements or ventilation system as a whole.

From the foregoing, it becomes clear that it is inexpensive and not very difficult to properly ventilate the steam room of the bath. However, this requires careful observance of all technologies. The attached video "How to make ventilation in the steam room of the bath" will help to avoid mistakes.

We have repeatedly addressed the topic of bath ventilation, but these were materials regarding its theoretical part.

This article corrects the preponderance of theory and is entirely devoted to practical matters bath ventilation devices.

How to make ventilation in the bath: plan at the construction stage

Indeed, there are far from isolated cases of the construction of baths without any kind of ventilation. At first glance it seems that the train has already left. However, in reality there is always the opportunity to fix everything, however, you will have to come to terms with the fact that this will cost a pretty penny. It is especially difficult to make forgotten ventilation in brick bath where ventilation ducts are laid in the walls during the construction phase. But in other cases, the task is not easy.

But what does it mean to plan during the construction phase? First of all, we are talking about the layout of the ventilation openings and the channels by which they are connected to the street or neighboring rooms (depending on the choice). Based on this scheme, the volume of rooms and standards, the diameter of the pipes is calculated, providing the necessary gas exchange in each of bath rooms: steam room, washing room, rest room, dressing room, toilet. If the ventilation is forced, then the power of the fans is calculated.

If the bath is already built

Let's take, as an example, an ordinary Russian bathhouse, in which they forgot to make ventilation holes. In principle, if there are windows, and the furnace firebox is located inside the steam room, then you can do without drilling holes at all. But you will have to constantly resort to burst ventilation and use the draft of the furnace as a ventilation one.

This will solve the problem in general, but there are downsides to be aware of:

1. By opening windows and doors, we do not so much reduce the temperature in the room, but distill the steam into other rooms (instead of the street where the inflow comes from, it goes inside and condensate falls there), and then the steam comes out, and the temperature has only dropped slightly and will recover in a short time.
2. To use stove draft, you still have to make holes, but only in the lower part of the steam room door. Then an influx from neighboring premises will go through it, which, in turn, will pull through the cracks from the street.

To adjust the ventilation with the help of the furnace, the gate and furnace doors are used. If you need to increase air exchange, just open the damper and the firebox doors to the stop. To reduce it, the gate is covered, but not completely, because in closed with unburnt firewood - this is a guarantee of carbon monoxide poisoning.

By the way, the problem of forgotten ventilation in a bath made of any material is solved by the methods described. Replace completely supply and exhaust ventilation they can't, but they relieve the trouble of making holes in the walls.

If such ventilation is not enough, you will have to drill the wall. But more on that below.

Device, schemes: how to make ventilation in the bath

There are a number of materials included in other articles, therefore, in order not to repeat ourselves, we suggest that you follow the links below - there you will find a lot useful information on the topic of interest:

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath: a step-by-step guide

Now let's proceed to the analysis of the points that make up the creation of bath ventilation with our own hands, let's call it a step-by-step guide.

Schema selection

In terms of choosing a scheme, the answer to the question “how to properly ventilate in a bath” is ambiguous, since there are different schemes. Physics says that the inlet should be located below the exhaust. What exactly will be the height difference between them is up to you. Despite the fact that in many sources it is proposed to make an exhaust hole under the ceiling (but in no case on the ceiling, so as not to spoil the attic with condensate), there is a more advanced scheme in which there are two exhaust holes inside for one exhaust hole outside. It's simple: a pipe with two holes is placed - lower behind the middle shelf and under the ceiling, and this pipe has one exit to the street.

The schemes also differ in what walls to make the hood on. Most often, there are no questions with the inflow - it is done under the stove, and the hood is made on the opposite, and on the same walls, and with access to the street, and to the adjacent room.

Choose the optimal ventilation flow path

Calculations are simply made only for forced ventilation. For a natural one, many factors have to be taken into account, in particular, the strength and direction of the winds that usually blow in this area. Why is it necessary? Let's take the case when the exhaust hole goes to the same side from which it blows strong wind. And it turns out that because of this, the influx strives to get into the exhaust hole. Then the inlet will also “unfold” into reverse side. It is called reverse thrust or overturning traction.

In order to avoid this, the ventilation ducts can be extended to lead in the right direction, and even done with turns, which, by the way, reduce the speed of air movement.

The idea is simple: it is better to orient the inlet to the side where the wind often blows, and the outlet of the hood is on the opposite side or through the roof along a high pipe.

ADVICE! Rather than making ventilation ducts with knees, it is better to immediately make forced ventilation.

By the way, not every wall will well accept a ventilation duct in its thickness. Better not to do something like this outer walls from blocks. There, all ventilation is carried out along the internal walls and partitions, often over the walls.

How to make a hole in a wall

This point is discussed in more detail below.

Installation of pipes and gratings

Galvanized pipes can be used as an air duct.

ATTENTION! If you take plastic ones, pay attention to their temperature range so that the steam room does not spoil them.

Ventilation in the dressing room

The dressing room should be a warm room with fresh air, in which it is comfortable to be after bath procedures. Therefore, it is usually equipped with only one ventilation hole - an exhaust hood. And to speed up the process of gas exchange, a fan is often placed on this hood. The exhaust hole itself is located opposite the steam room at a height of half a meter. It is drilled in an accessible way in the wall, a plug is placed on it on one side, and a grill or deflector on the other. In the case of forced ventilation, there is a fan inside, connected according to the instructions attached to the device.

But if the furnace firebox is not in the steam room, but in the dressing room, you will have to make sure that fresh air from the street enters the furnace. For this, it is equipped ventilation duct, most likely made of galvanized steel, which runs under the finished floor and delivers fresh air directly to the oven door. The installation of this channel is carried out until the end of work with the floor. The pipe of the calculated diameter is inserted at one end into the hole in the wall, where it is fixed with polyurethane foam and is closed with a grate, and on the other hand it is led to the furnace and is supplied with an adjustable plug.

How to make ventilation in the steam room of the bath

The ventilation mode of the steam room differs from other rooms of the bath just as the steam room itself differs from them in its extremeness. In the Russian bath, while soaring, the ventilation is blocked for a while. But at the same time, it's extremely important. to saturate the steam room with oxygen, uniform heating, distribution of air flows.

More detailed information on this topic can be found in articles and in general. In particular, Bastu ventilation can be called among the well-proven methods of ventilation of this room. But you can read about it in the articles mentioned.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room

Steam room ventilation schemes can also be found in. As for the stages self-assembly ducts, they are no different from those above, so now we will consider in detail the method of drilling holes in the walls of a log house or timber, as well as from blocks.

How to make a hole in the wall of a log house

1. Before you start you need to know place and size future hole, which is a little larger than the diameter of the pipe, because you still have to wrap the pipe with a heat insulator. After that, markup is done. (It is advisable to have both pipes and grates at hand at this moment so that the process can be controlled through them.)
2. A drill for wood, the length of which should be greater than the thickness of the wall with all the "pie", if any, a through hole is drilled in the center of the markup.
3. After that with outer side walls a circle of the desired diameter is drawn with a drilled hole in the center.
4. External and internal wall trim neatly sawn in a circle, freeing the log of the wall.
5. The same drill is made holes in the log around the circumference marked circle. And the closer they are to each other, the easier it is to remove the inner fragment later. Make sure the drill is perpendicular to the plane of the wall.
6. Chisel and chisel will help remove jumpers between drilled holes. Work should be done both inside and outside the bath.
7. Pulling out the middle part don't smooth the edges- it's too much.

Useful video

And here on the video the same thing is done with a drill and crown:

How to make a hole in a block wall

The method for a block wall is exactly the same as described above, except that a concrete drill is taken (you can use a crown instead). By the way, the blocks are very soft, the main thing is not to collide with metal (reinforcing mesh, dowels, fastening fittings for openings). If this happens, you will need special tongs (hydraulic).

IMPORTANT! There is also a chance of colliding with metal when drilling a log house - there are dowels under the ceiling that hold the Mauerplate, so the pliers should be rented in advance.

As for air ducts, plugs and valves, all this is purchased in stores. The air duct is most often a galvanized pipe (round, square or rectangular in cross section), which must be thermally insulated (wrapped with insulation) and sealed with foam so that condensation does not form and the wall does not get wet.

Plugs and dampers are bought for the desired diameter. It is better to take wooden ones, because the plastic in the steam room will release carcinogens that we do not need, and the metal will be burned in a heated steam room. As for the schemes, we have already given links to them.

Useful video

It shows how to do it with a drill square hole in the wall.

Well, that's all we could tell you about how to make ventilation in the bath. We can only wish you success in the implementation of your plans. Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath is a difficult task, but feasible for many. We hope that you have planned everything well and to the end, and in the future you will not have to regret either the lost time or the money invested.

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