Planes made of wood. How to make an airplane out of plywood. Jigsaw cutting and assembly. Other crafts. Playground houses

Every boy in childhood dreamed of being at the controls of an airplane. The sky, clouds, travel always entailed adventurers and brave men. But in order to feel closer to aviation, it is not necessary to buy a plane ticket or enter a flight school. After reading this article, you will learn how to make a plane out of wood with your own hands.

Necessary tools and materials

Before searching suitable model aircraft and its drawing, you need to provide yourself with the necessary materials. The best option will become In its manufacture, three layers of birch veneer are glued together with phenolic glue.

In this case, the thickness of the material is important, it should be about 1 mm, but thicker sheets of plywood may also be needed. If you do not know how to make a flying plane out of wood, then pay attention to this particular parameter. Moreover, this material is very light, flexible and durable.

When choosing plywood suitable for work, you should pay attention to its appearance. Over the entire area, its thickness should be the same. All kinds of defects, delaminations, chips or cracks should be absent. The material must be dry, so it is easier to process.

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Now that you have mastered the information on how to make a plane out of wood different ways, you can choose any of the options and modify it as you wish.

The design can be designed independently, however, for this it will be necessary to study the publications on the design of modern aircraft. Various virtual design programs can be useful.

If you can't find dry material, you can prepare plywood sheets yourself by keeping them for two or three weeks in a room with low humidity and a constant temperature.

If you have never made and do not know exactly how to make an airplane out of wood, then only take the job if you know what the future model will be, or when its aerodynamic properties are not important (making a child's toy).

When making a decorative model or toy, you should get rid of sharp corners by chamfering.

If you are working on a model designed for flight, then special attention should be paid to the exact positioning of the tail and wings. After all, aerodynamic properties depend on them.

Conclusion

Aircraft models of various levels of complexity are made by craftsmen around the world. At the same time, the most complex controlled models can perform aerobatics.

Having picked up a suitable drawing, you can easily figure out how to make an airplane out of wood. However, such work will be simple only in the manufacture of the most simple models. More time-consuming tasks for novice builders will not be able to do it, they should master the most simple technologies and diagrams, as well as understand the process in more detail.

Erect airplane from tree absolutely within the power of even a schoolboy who does not miss classes in a school aircraft modeling circle. Such a model of a glider, finally, is unlikely to be able to take passengers on board, but it will reward the creator with good flight properties and high structural strength. By launching a wooden glider, you will buy the skill of adjusting free-flying models and get an unforgettable experience from a flight made by yourself. airplane but.

You will need

Pine slats, knife, jigsaw, planer, PVA glue, aluminum wire, polystyrene foam, balsa, lavsan film, iron with thermostat

Instruction

1. Working on a wooden model airplane and start by assembling the frame. Glue it from pine slats with a section of 5x5 mm using PVA glue. Later, after the glue has dried, reinforce the frame with the inner corners of the foam. The upper end of the keel is also cut with a knife from a piece of foam or balsa. Round the front and back edges of the frame. Cover the keel on both sides with a colored lavsan film. Glue the steering wheel to the trailing edge (it can be cut out of cardboard 0.5 mm thick).

2. From pine slats with a section of 5x5 mm, also assemble a stabilizer. Strengthen it with foam corners, rounding the edges of the frame. Bend the end parts of the stabilizer from wire (an aluminum knitting needle or a piece of electric wire). Attach the ending to the frame with threads with PVA glue or epoxy resin. Cover the finished stabilizer with a thin lavsan film, like the keel.

3. The wing is entirely made of pine wood. The leading and trailing edges of the wing must have a section of 3.5x9 mm, the spar - 3.5x7 mm. Also make ribs from pine blanks or from linden. Later, after the frame is assembled, plan the edges along the wing profile and round off.

4. The fuselage is made of pine lath with a section of 10x15 mm. The rake should thin evenly along each length towards the tail. Plane the nose out of linden or pine. You will also need a balancing weight made from a piece of lead. Insert the weight into the opening of the spout and rivet.

5. After gluing and processing the fuselage, glue the keel and stabilizer to it with PVA glue. At the same time, observe the mutual perpendicularity of the plumage elements and the even location of the stabilizer in relation to the fuselage beam. Lacquer the fuselage and cover it with shiny nitro paint.

6. Adjust the wooden glider model. Tie the pylon to the fuselage at the rear and front ends with a rubber band and move the wing along the beams until you find the desired location of the center of gravity relative to the wing.

7. Carry out the first test runs in the gym or outdoors with little wind. Launch the model with a slight horizontal throw. Using adjusting wooden wedges placed between the pylon and the fuselage, achieve the lowest rate of descent when planning the model. After mastering the technique of such "piloting", bravely use the model to demonstrate your design knowledge - in public fun.

Aircraft modeling has been captivating both adults and children for decades. Aircraft made of plastic, wood, metal, composite materials. The final version today is probably the most famous, tea composites are strong and durable, they are created by an unnatural method by connecting heterogeneous solid materials, which consist of several components that differ in their chemical and physical properties.

Instruction

1. Design your plane on paper. Remember, it depends on your plan what the aircraft will be like in appearance and functionality. There can be a lot of options, it all depends on your imagination and fantasy. However, here one should also consider those factors that will affect the rise of the unit, its flight and landing, that is, all parts of the aircraft must be proportional and accurate in measurements and calculations.

2. Calculate all the details of your aircraft unit. In this case, you should calculate not only the weight and geometric dimensions of the unit, but also consider the number of seats, engine power, the one that you will use, stall speed, operational overload, aerodynamics, etc. All calculations should be made strictly according to the appropriate formulas.

3. Determine and mark on your paper plan where the butt joints will be, and where the supporting ones, where the adhesive, and where the welding, threaded or composite. At the same time, it should be taken into account that the joints are usually subjected to higher loads, and they should be made with metal elements.

4. Prepare all materials and tools for work. Make in those places composite materials where holes, threads and sockets for connections are required. Remember at the same time that the holes do not have to be near the glued seams and adhesive joints.

5. Clean the surfaces around the threads and holes made. Determine the location of the rivets and make these types of connections.

6. Start assembling your aircraft in accordance with the calculations and paper drawing (sketch), observantly, stepwise connecting all the details of the aircraft. When assembling an aircraft from composite materials remember that the wings and tail are assembled first, and then the body, into which all the elements (parts) of the aircraft are inserted. Test the finished unit.

Construct airplane allowed from improvised means, spending a minimum of time and effort. At the same time, such an aircraft model, with the right adjustment, will be able to fly quite far away. Raising a few of these airplane s, you will be able to compete with your friends in the flight range of your models.

You will need

- a sheet of notebook paper in a cage;
- match;
- triangular object.

Instruction

1. Take a sheet of notebook paper and build on it the drawings of the wing and tail of the aircraft in accordance with the diagram shown in the figure. Carefully cut out the details and bend the keels on the tail unit along the dotted lines.

2. Take a match that will be used as the fuselage of the upcoming aircraft. The match must be solid, that is, straight-grained and even. Cut off part of it with a blade, as shown in the figure. Clean up the cut with sandpaper. Now glue the tail unit (see picture). Use PVA glue or similar.

3. Find a trihedral object on which it will be possible to balance the fuselage with the tail unit. For example, you can cut a triangular prism out of wood yourself or use a triangular ruler. If the fuselage is not balanced in any way and the tail of the aircraft outweighs, glue a small piece of plasticine to the nose (to the sulfur match head). When the balance point is found, sweep it - it will be the center of gravity of your aircraft.

4. Glue the wing to the fuselage, indenting towards the nose 2.5 mm from the center of gravity. After the wing is glued on, it needs to be folded back about 8° as shown in the picture.

5. Your plane is ready, but in order for it to fly perfectly, it needs to be set up. Take it with two fingers and smoothly run it horizontally. Follow his flight. If it immediately dives down, bend the horizontal part of the plumage up. If it quickly falls flat, on the contrary, you need to bend the tail unit slightly down. If the plane turns to the right, you need to bend the bends on the tail to the left. If it turns to the left, it is necessary to bend them to the right. By bending the left or right side of the wing, you will get rid of the tilt of the aircraft. With perfect tuning, your aircraft will fly straight and descend smoothly and fly at least 8 meters.

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Polycarbonate is the current material often used to make canopies. It has a number of advantages: nice appearance, light weight, the possibility of choosing a color. Despite the fact that many companies offer to install a canopy from polycarbonate for a fee, this work allowed to do it on your own.

You will need

- polycarbonate sheet;
- metal pipes;
– wooden slats;
- dye;
- self-tapping screws;
– fasteners for polycarbonate;
- drill;
- a hacksaw.

Instruction

1. Before you make a canopy, take measurements and purchase the necessary components: polycarbonate itself, pipes, wooden slats, fasteners.

2. To mount the canopy, you will need a frame, the size of which depends on the available free area. The shape of the canopy depends only on personal preference, because polycarbonate is quite elastic in order to take the form of a semicircle.

3. Take 4 pipes and dig them into the ground to a depth of 30-40 cm, forming a square or rectangle. There should be a distance of about 1-1.5 meters between the pipes, if the canopy is made of polycarbonate will be larger, then the number of supports increases. They will be the basis of the frame for the canopy. If you want to achieve increased structural safety, cement the base of the pipes.

4. Make a frame out of wood appearance resembling window frame, the sides of which will be equal in size to the distance between the pipes. Inside the frame there should be several transverse rails located at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is to them that polycarbonate will be attached. Treat the wood with a stain or paint it so that the frame retains its shape longer.

5. Using corners with narrower technical holes, attach the wooden frame to the pipes. The corners are attached to the pipes with metal screws. On the wooden part it is allowed to use any screws.

6. Cut with a hacksaw or circular saw piece polycarbonate, the size of which should be 5-7 cm wider than the frame made.

7. Lay the sheet on the frame and drill holes in it for fastening. They can be placed at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Drilling is desirable to carry out at high drill cycles initially, opposite the edges of the hole, they turn out to be torn.

8. Using self-tapping screws and special washers with wide caps, attach the sheet to wooden frame. It is possible to avoid leaks at the attachment points with the help of rubber gaskets. To make the edges of the canopy look more diligent, it is worth putting special finishing profiles on them, which are sold in the same stores as polycarbonate.

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Minecraft allows you to make trolleys, cars and even planes. Probably every minecrafter dreams of moving through the air at an unimaginable speed. And if you still don’t know how to make an airplane in Minecraft, then it’s time to learn this.

Instruction

1. Unfortunately, making a plane without mods in Minecraft is unrealistic. In order to build a working winged transport, you need to download and drop the Flan's Mod files into the minecraft.jar folder. In order for the mod to work correctly, you must also install the MinecraftForge utility on your computer. With the help of this software add-on it is possible to make four-winged and six-winged aircraft.

2. Start crafting an aircraft should be with the manufacture of the tail. It is made from leather and metal. Wood is needed to make the body, and sticks are used to make the wings. All items must be placed on the workbench as shown in the picture below. A plane in Minecraft will not fly without a propeller. It requires steel and sticks to craft.

3. In fact, making a plane in Minecraft was not so difficult. No hard-to-find materials were needed for its construction. You can hover in the air while viewing the area from a bird's eye view. But the tea plane can still bomb enemies!

4. In order to make a combat aircraft in the Minecraft game, you need to make a machine gun and bombs. You will also need a place to store charges - coclit. All these things are easy to craft if you look at the picture. This is how it is allowed to arm an airplane made in Minecraft.

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Children's playground on site suburban area or country house will allow your child to spend time energetically on fresh air under your supervision. Choose a well-lit and wind-sheltered place for the playground and build a playground with your own hands.

Sandbox on the playground

For kids, a sandbox must be present on the playground. It can be made using several methods from inexpensive materials. Build a sandbox from a tire from a tractor or other large machine. Cover the bottom nonwoven fabric, one that will allow moisture to pass into the soil, but will not allow the earth to mix with sand. Lay the tire on top and fill the structure with sifted river sand. An excellent sandbox can be made from stumps. Pick up the right number of stumps and treat them with an antiseptic so that the tree does not rot. Lay out the rope in the shape of a sandbox in the place where you plan to place it. You can get creative and make the sandbox look like a boat, a flower with petals, an airplane, or make slightly curved silhouettes. Dig in the hemp along the silhouette, the one that was marked with a rope. When using thick stumps located on the same tier, the children will also get paths along which they are allowed to run or sit. Build a sandbox with board support. To begin with, dig a hole about 50 cm deep at the place where it will be located and fill it with rubble. In this case, after a downpour, the sand will quickly dry out. Screw the box out of four boards and four bars. Take the bars more reliably, so that their lower ends also serve as legs. Paint the wooden edging of the sandbox shiny oil paint. On the sides you can draw cartoon characters or large berries and fruits. Dig the legs into the ground along the silhouette of the hole and fill in the sand for games.

Baby swing

When constructing a swing, it is very important to observe safety precautions. The supports must be strong, and the fasteners are hefty true. Also consider the presence of free space in front of the swing and behind it. For supports, take two thick beams about 3 meters long. Treat it with antiseptic impregnation. Dig two holes, approximately 50 cm deep. Install the timber and fill it with concrete or cement. After the solution dries, attach a metal sheet on top of the supports. water pipe. Tie a rope with a seat to the crossbar. If the seat is wooden, try to give it a rounded shape at the corners. It is comfortable to use a child car seat for swings.

Playground houses

Babies love to hide in secluded places. Make a house on the playground. It can be a hut built from branches, or a tent that you can buy in a store. You can also make a fabric house independently. Make a frame from a bar or bend it from metal-plastic pipes. Pull shabby sheets or curtains on it. Cut through the window.

Elements for outdoor games

Attach a basketball hoop to a beam or tree. Determine its height based on the height of the child. It is allowed to make a labyrinth of old tires. Cut them in half and dig into the ground in a certain order. Install the horizontal bar. Make a level playing field for badminton.

Introduction

I was pushed to create my first aircraft by a banal lack of money and a desire to learn how to fly. Since the Chinese plane given to me by my girlfriend was repaired an endless number of times and, in the end, it became unrepairable, and there was not enough money to buy a new one, it was decided to build our own. Moreover, on the forum of the modelsworld.ru store, I was advised to do just that. Initially tried to copy the fuselage of his Chinese aircraft, but the construction of the aircraft requires at least some initial knowledge. Therefore, it is better to have at hand a manual already written by a more experienced designer. And, while still crawling on the Internet in search of a suitable aircraft, I came across an article "ParkFlyer 2 or our answer to Piper" and Cessn "e" by the author Evgeny Rybkin (link). A very successful option for me: high-wing, which means it is easier and more predictable to manage; I am also pleased that the aircraft is domestic, since our aircraft are practically not represented in this class.

I read the article, and although there is a slightly different manufacturing method, I decided to build according to this guide. True, if we compare both options, then only the name of the aircraft will be common - after all, Evgeny Rybkin’s description is more suitable for those who already have experience in building models and have necessary materials and tools. In a way, my example looks like "building an aircraft in unfavorable conditions." Therefore, the models also differ externally (Evgeny Rybkin's Yak-12 aircraft is on the left, My version of the Yak-12 aircraft is on the right):

The construction of my aircraft was carried out more intuitively than according to science: no calculations were made, no engine was selected, but what was available was stuck in. The remoteness of the city in which I live affects - more than 100 km to the only model store known to me, and in our construction stores the whole problem is to buy a normal ceiling and good glue. Therefore, the construction process was constantly hampered by the lack of necessary materials and parts. As a result, something was taken from a crashed Chinese plane, something (and this is a large part) was invented from improvised material.

Since this is my first self-built aircraft, there were some mistakes. Therefore, in the process of creating an aircraft, it was necessary to look for different variants problem solving, then some corrections and upgrades appeared in the process. Therefore, it makes sense to read the article to the end, so as not to repeat my mistakes.

I would like to add that this article should not be taken as a guide to action or instructions for building an aircraft, as I, for example, took the article by E. Rybkin. It only describes the process of making a park flyer by a beginner, in the field of aircraft construction, practically from improvised means. But, if you are building your first aircraft, and you do not have the opportunity to get hold of branded parts, then, I hope, some points will be useful to you. In general, go for it, and everything will work out for you!

Materials and tools

In principle, it took me not so much material for this plane. Considering that some components and parts were reworked several times, trying to achieve a more accurate match, the amount of materials used is minimal. I spent most of my time, because due to work I could only fly in the evenings.

The article by E. Rybkin describes the production of an aircraft from PS-60 foam. There, a special machine is used to cut it, where a heated nichrome (maybe I'm wrong in the name) wire plays the role of a knife. Due to the lack of this fixture, I decided to make a model entirely from the ceiling. More available material at that time I didn't have one. I used the ceiling of different manufacturers, different colors, but the same parameters: 500 * 500 mm, the same density, 3 mm thick and must look like a "box from Doshirak". The plane took me nine sheets. When shopping for ceiling tiles, buy a bottle of ceiling tile adhesive. I used glue "Master". As it turned out later, this is an analogue of the well-known glue "Titan". In general, ask the seller, he will tell you.

Then we go to a stationery store and buy wooden rulers 30 cm and 50 cm there. I used rulers 30 cm long as ribs in the wing and for the rigidity of the fuselage. As practice has shown, for the rigidity of the fuselage it is better to use a 50 cm ruler - they are thicker. In the same place, I bought colored tape for covering the model. Due to the limited range, I had to take white, blue and orange colors. I was looking for black tape to simulate glass, but I did not find it. But our stationery store sells knitting needles. I took four pieces of 2 mm and two of 3 mm. In principle, you can do without 3 mm spokes - I used them as a spacer between the wing and the fuselage, but the spokes are quite heavy, after a few dashing turns they fell out, and I had to replace them with plastic tubes. If you do not have a ready-made motor frame, as in my case, then you will also need a sheet of plywood 3 mm thick and approximately 200 * 200 mm in size.

The tools I used were: a stationery knife with a replaceable blade, scissors, a helium pen, an awl and a 3 mm Phillips screwdriver, a set of pins and, of course, rulers.

"Filling"

E. Rybkin's article contains a lot of calculations. And, based on these calculations, a motor installation and other electronic filling are selected. This the right approach when creating a serious aircraft. Maybe next time I build, I'll use this method. At the same moment, I proceeded from what I had available. And I had the following: Futaba 6EXA equipment with a receiver, two Chinese motors, with rear and front mounts, a 30A regulator, two servos weighing 8 g and a force of 1.3 kg, horns taken from a Chinese aircraft, two propellers measuring 10 * 7 and 8 * 4 with a cooker and a Chinese battery of 8.4 volts and a capacity of 650mAh.

Drawing

I downloaded the drawings in the same place, in the article by E. Rybkin and printed the sheets on the printer.

Gluing is very simple - there are marks on the sheets that are enough to be combined to get the correct ones, without shifting the line. To transfer the image to the ceiling, you can use two methods. The first is to fix the sheet on the ceiling with pins and pierce along the contour with a thin awl. Then, for clarity, you can connect the holes obtained on the ceiling with a pencil, or you can simply cut through sharp knife. On straight sections, it is enough to make several punctures, and on curves, the more punctures there are, the more accurate the transfer will be. The second method is suitable if the drawing is printed on inkjet printer. To transfer, slightly moisten the tile, apply the drawing and on flat surface iron with a warm iron. The image should remain on the foam. The main thing is not to overdo it with the temperature and not melt the ceiling.

When placing a drawing, it is worth remembering that ceiling tiles has different bending strength. This is easy to check by bending the sheet in different sides. This applies to the wing, since my left and right halves were placed diagonally, from one corner to the other. This made it possible to avoid gluing the fuselage from several ceiling sheets.

I would like to draw attention to the fact that the top and bottom of the aircraft are given in halves, and they are of different sizes. For the correct outline of the lines, you must first draw one half, and then make its mirror image. I divided the upper part into two segments - the front one goes from the nose of the car to the leading edge of the wing; rear end to trailing edge.

The wing profiles, as well as the inner frames in the drawing, turned out to be smaller than we need. Therefore, you will have to make them yourself.

Fuselage

After the bottom and sides of the fuselage are cut out, we mark on them where the frames will be located. In order not to be too smart, I transferred almost all the locations of the frames from the drawing.

Except for "A" and "B". I decided to use these two frames as a motor mount. Since I had two motors and with different mounts, it was decided to make the motor mount universal for motors with front and rear mounts, reducing the distance between the frames so that both motors would fit. Later, this arrangement was very useful - the initially installed motor turned out to be too weak.

I made the motorama from two plywood plates 3mm thick and two pieces of the ruler. Also, for strength and adjustment of the inclination of the plates at the bottom at the base, I added two corners. In the frame "B" or in the rear wall of the motor mount, do not forget to cut holes for the output of the motor wires to the regulator. The whole structure was glued together with epoxy resin. Initially, I wanted to make a "crooked" frame, so that later I would not bother with the slopes down and to the right. But on the forum of the site modelsworld.ru I was dissuaded in time and advised to tilt the motor by placing washers under the base. Looking ahead, I will say that the design turned out to be very strong - after several strong frontal impacts on the ground, the front wall burst at the place where the engine was attached. The second option, when the frame itself is purchased, and the base is made of foam, I will not consider here, since this option has not yet passed flight tests. Yes, and there is nothing complicated there: a foam base is made, reinforced with rulers for a ready-made motor mount.

You also need to think about where and how the "stuffing" will be located: servos, battery compartment, receiver and regulator.

For the regulator, I made a small podium from the same packaging foam, making a recess in it a little thicker than the regulator itself, where I pasted two strips of double-sided tape. This was done for more comfortable work with wires when connecting and for more safety of the regulator.

Immediately after the podium, on the bottom, I placed a power element for the chassis, again made from the line. The chassis will screw into it.

For the battery compartment, I used packing foam blocks fitted to the size of the battery and a ruler as a frame "B" (before gluing, it is better to wrap the ruler with tape a couple of times, otherwise the battery will break it when it falls). The compartment turned out to be universal - it successfully accommodates both a Ni-Cd battery and a Li-Po. Moreover, there is enough space to adjust the balance by moving the battery. That's where my receiver was located.

Immediately behind the battery compartment in front of the "D" frame, I placed the servo machine for the rudder and elevator. For them, a foam podium was also made, in which niches for cars were cut. On the places where the fastening screws will be screwed, I glued strips from the ruler.

Then I glued the frames "D" and "E", having previously cut out grooves in them for reinforcing the sides of the fuselage. Also in the frame "D" a hole was cut for the rudder rods. In the photo above, the hole is a circle, but I had to abandon this shape and make it square and cut off the top. That is, it turned out like an inverted letter "P". This design proved to be more practical.

When planning the plane, I thought to make the wings removable, inserted on the spokes on the left and right sides, respectively. But, having already made this design, I understood it weak sides. First, you would have to think through access to the internal compartments. Secondly, upon impact, most likely the attachment points of the wings would simply be torn out of the fuselage. Therefore, I decided to make the fastening of the wings classic for such models - removable, with elastic bands.

In the picture, the glued rulers are what I did initially. Red shows the subsequent wing cutout; blue - power elements from the rulers; yellow - the approximate location of the holes for the sticks, on which the elastic bands will be attached. The cut will depend on the shape of the wing. Of course, it is better to make such a cutout immediately, when it is possible to attach both halves to each other, so that it would turn out the same on both sides. In principle, I removed the upper part already on the glued and covered fuselage - it turned out not bad. But all the same, it is advisable to glue the bottom and sides after the wing is made and the seats in the sides are cut out for it.

Now, having already flown on the finished model, I came to the conclusion that the rear power element is not necessary, since there are enough frames and duct tape at the back. But if you are worried about strength - you can do it.

Since the bottom of the side does not have a straight shape, I glued it as follows: I glued the central part first, fixing the position of the bottom, side and frames with pins; after the glue had dried, I also glued the bow; and finally glued the tail section. I glued the motor mount to the sides with epoxy.

After gluing, I got the following:

In the lower part, in front of the frame "B", on both sides I glued two plastic spare parts from the spokes onto the epoxy, with the holes outward. They come with knitting needles and are dressed at the ends. Wing struts will be inserted into these holes.

In the very corner of the back of the case, I placed a piece of foam. The rudder will "stick" into it. The upper part of the fuselage consists of two halves: fore and aft. After the transition to the construction of an aircraft with wing fasteners on elastic bands, there was no need to make a bow with a wing approach. The photo shows the dotted line where the cut should be made.

Before installing the rear upper part, it is necessary to place the servos and rods (boudens) inside the fuselage. Since my rudder thrust came out exactly through back cover fuselage, then in it (the cover) it was necessary to make a small hole for the bowden. I made another hole in the rear of the left side under the elevator rod.

The fuselage was covered with white tape. Didn't encounter any problems here. But the production of applications took some time.

To imitate cabin windows, I made templates from cardboard. Then he simply applied them to blue tape, circled and cut them with a clerical knife.

I made a blue stripe from a strip of adhesive tape. I pasted the adhesive tape directly on the fuselage, marked it out, ran it over the markings with a knife and removed the excess. But it was a big mistake - to cut off the blue strip in place, on the fuselage. After hitting the ground, the ceiling burst exactly in the place where the incisions were made, although when cutting it, I tried to touch the foam as little as possible.

The inscriptions are printed on the printer, cut off and pasted on a transparent adhesive tape.

Elevators and rudders

In the manufacture of the rudders themselves, there were no difficulties. Problems appeared during their installation - it was necessary to achieve a smooth installation so that there would be no problems during flights.

In the manufacture of the elevator, it must be taken into account that the jumper connecting the two halves is rather small and requires reinforcement. I did not immediately pay attention to this, for which I was punished: in flight this jumper was torn, despite the tightness with adhesive tape, and the RV worked like an aileron. As a result, several barrels and land. You can strengthen it with a thin strip of a ruler glued to the glue, and also slightly increase the size of this area itself. More are possible practical options amplification than I used. For example, carbon pipes. After strengthening, cover with tape. And one more important point: after tightening, do not heat! The adhesive tape is already quite firmly held, and if you start to heat it, the stabilizer will most likely lead, as happened in my case. I had to make a new one. The same goes for the rudder. The elevator was leveled using struts made of thin knitting needles. There were no problems when gluing into the fuselage, so I see no reason to describe in detail.

But there were problems with the rudder - I didn’t want to be installed exactly. For gluing into the fuselage, I used rod ends glued to the spokes.

But this was not enough, and it was necessary to install supports from the rulers. In the future, the props, as well as the strengthening of the elevator, hid under white tape, so that they would not be conspicuous.

Wings

The wing turned out to be the most problematic part in the manufacture. I redid it several times, trying to achieve the same results on both wings. They were different all the time. There was a lack of experience.

An important point when placing a drawing of a wing on a sheet of ceiling tiles, there will be a choice of the direction of bending of the ceiling itself, as already mentioned above. When marking the wing, we will need to make its mirror image with an indent slightly larger than the front height of the rib. That is, we outline one half, retreat the desired distance (about 20 mm), turn the wing pattern over and outline the mirror image. In my case, the indentation was about 15 mm and still not enough.

A ruler was used as the material for the ribs. Initially, I made the rib not correct form with a sharp forehead, but then, having received advice on the forum, he corrected himself. In general, it is desirable to make a profile, as in the drawing, but with dimensions suitable for our wing. There were four ribs on the wing: three on the wide part and one in the middle, between the end of the wide part and the end of the wing.

In the first three ribs, at the same distance, two holes were made for the spokes, which were originally conceived as devices for attaching the wing to the fuselage. But even if you make a wing with a top mount, I think that the spokes can be left, as they will give the wing rigidity and will not break.

When everything is prepared, proceed to the fold of the wing. On the Internet, you can find many ways to bend the ceiling. The essence is the same everywhere - it is necessary to warm. I heated up with a heater. And here the main thing is not to rush. Choose a temperature at which it is not very hot yourself, and the sheet bends as it should. Already on the next wings, I did this: I took two wooden 50 cm rulers, applied them on both sides and bent (pressed) with rulers, and not with my hands. This was done so that there would be no dents from the fingers. Fixed when gluing with clothespins and even paper clips. When gluing, when fixing, it is also better to use a flat substrate in the form of rulers.

I realized this only when dents from clothespins and paper clips remained on the wing left to dry until the morning.

It so happened that for one wing, the end chord turned out to be 5-7 mm less than for the other. Having tortured several sheets of the ceiling, I decided to make it easier. I measured the missing piece, cut it out of the waste and glued it. After covering with adhesive tape, the differences were not visible.

Next, we make the profile of the inner wall of the wing from the ruler. It is enough just to attach the wing vertically to a sheet of paper and trace along the contour, and then transfer the resulting contour to the ruler. On this profile, I got two rows of holes - the first for the exit of the spokes from the wing, and the second, slightly lower and slightly to the side for the entry of the spokes from the opposite wing. When the profiles are cut out, we glue them on the ends of the wing, and, after the glue dries, we insert the knitting needles into the holes. It turns out like this:

Then we cut out a rectangular piece of the ceiling, with an approximate overlap on the wing of 30-50 mm. Having evenly placed the workpiece on the wing (as in the photo), we glue the lower part. After the glue dries, we bend it in the shape of a wing. We try on the resulting wing on the fuselage, mark the width and remove unnecessary sections with a knife.

There was even an idea to increase the wing area in this way, but since the plane flew, it was decided to leave everything as it is.

Covering the wing with scotch tape white color with an overlap of 3-5 mm. Wing ends made orange color. Lettering printed on laser printer, cut and glued on a transparent adhesive tape. I did not resort to the help of an iron to smooth out irregularities, since a slight overheating in temperature threatens with deformation.

I used thick knitting needles as struts. But either I made a mistake in the calculations, or the spokes turned out to be a rather heavy material, in flight, after several maneuvers, they fell out even after gluing. Perhaps it makes sense to find an easier option. For example, as E. Rybkin suggests, you can use cotton candy tubes or pick up an analogue.

To install the struts, I used tubes from juice in tetra bags, since with their help it is easy to achieve the desired angle of installation of the struts. Glued into the fender with epoxy.

Chassis

For a long time I could not make the chassis, because I could not find the appropriate material. But in the end, as always, the stationery store helped - aluminum rulers, this is what we need. I used wheels from a Chinese aircraft, dimension 5.

It will be more reliable to make a structure from one ruler, but I did not find a ruler of a suitable length, so I had to use two 15 cm each. I cut off the excess and bent it according to the drawing. Initially, I planned to attach it to the fuselage by gluing, but the very first tests (just threw it on the floor) showed that this design was too flimsy. I had to combine the gluing and drill holes for the mounting screws.

Chassis pattern

Installed the chassis after tightening. Before gluing, I used the method described by E. Rybkin: I wrapped the part that I was going to glue with thread, coil to coil, and then smeared it with glue.

Hood

Initially, when making the hood, I wanted to follow the example described in the article by E. Rybkin, but after several attempts, I found this method too complicated for me. As a result, I decided to make a hood from a ceiling strip. I cut out a rectangle 70mm wide and about 300mm long, attached it to the nose of the aircraft and wrapped it. Taped the bottom with tape. Here the important point is right choice direction of ceiling bending. In my case, there was no heating and other methods that are used to shape the ceiling. I wanted to use a propeller from a processor cooler as the front of the motor, but have not yet found a suitable size. This would help solve the problem of ventilation of the engine compartment. So far I have limited myself to sticking the blinds printed on the printer from the drawing.

Flying

The first sorties were without a landing gear, without a hood, with a plywood motor mount and spokes as struts. Impatience forced me to leave for the field with a rather noticeable gusty wind.

Checking, centering. For cargo on the nose, I glue a few five-ruble coins. I start up from my hand without a motor - the flight is not far, but smooth, with a slight roll. I decide to fly with a motor. The first flight - lumpy. The plane did not want to fly in any way - at full throttle it smoothly descended into the grass. Affected by the use of an unknown motor. After the plane "sat down" next to the pipe, disguised in the grass, I decided not to tempt fate and went home to redo the power plant. It's good that the motor mount was originally made universal, so the alteration did not take much time. I also decided to put Li-Po instead of a standard battery.

Back in the field. The wind has intensified even more, but this does not stop, although the thought "maybe wait?" arises. Again check and take off. Now the picture is different - the plane flies, gains altitude, makes uncertain turns, but all this is somehow strange: the nose is turned up against the wind - the tail is lowered. In the wind, the picture is the opposite - the nose is lowered, the tail is lifted. Several times, when cornering was picked up by gusts. It didn’t work out once, and it didn’t weakly kiss the ground. There was a crack under the blue stripe. But the experiments do not stop there - you have to find out what is wrong with the plane. Before it turned out: during one of the flights, the plane suddenly made two barrels and “softly” sat down in a puddle. We approached, and immediately everything became clear - the very jumper that connected the halves of the elevator broke.

From the damage of that day: a rumpled nose, a crack under the strip, a torn-off spoke-brace. A little. We're going home for repairs.

The next morning was windless and the decision to go appeared immediately. To be honest, I was very worried: after the first flights, it seemed that the plane was assembled poorly and somewhere there were a lot of shortcomings and miscalculations. Check on the ground and start. And, oh miracle! The plane is flying as it should! Climb, turn, different, I reduce the gas to almost half, but it still flies! Delight has no limits! The only thing that spoiled the mood a little - when turning, you have to be very careful with rolls: you gape a little and the plane is rapidly losing altitude. But it is very easy to catch, although it adds adrenaline. It is enough to put the rudder in the center, and take the elevator a little on you, and the plane goes into horizontal flight. True, I have little experience and in the end I stuck it in the ground. This time, the damage was more significant: the motor mount burst in the places where the bolts were attached, the nose was even more wrinkled, and the ruler holding the battery was broken.

Conclusion

Despite the recent damage, I am very pleased with the aircraft, although it does not pull on the role of a coach, as it was originally intended. It was my first independent step into r / a aviation. During the construction of this aircraft, I learned a lot, which no doubt will be useful to me when building other aircraft.

I would also like to add that testing and fine-tuning continues.

I would like to say a huge thank you to my mother, the girl Masha, for putting up with all the mess that I made at home; Vadik for supplying details and ideas; forum.modelsworld.ru forum users, especially Barbus for his advice.

Specification:

Length - 685 mm
> wingspan - 960 mm
> weight - 500 g

motor - E-Sky Ek5-0003B 900KV
> regulator - Rich-ESC - 30A
> servo - E-Sky Ek2-0500 weight 8g. Force 1.3 kg
> propeller - 10*7

Equipment - Futaba 6EXA 40Mhz

Author - Evgeniy Zhukov. (Terranosaurus)
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A plywood plane is a common type of fake that you can easily do yourself.

Important qualities of the material are considered:

Ecological cleanliness;
Durability;
Strength.

Plywood is used in many industries: in the manufacture of aircraft, ships, cars. This type of material always remains popular and indispensable in the creative processes of craftsmen and designers. Products obtained with its help are able to amaze the imagination.

Tool and material preparation

To design an aircraft model, you must first prepare suitable material and toolkit. Recommend stocking up without fail:

Hand jigsaw on wood, because electric tools in this case will not help, everything is done manually.
Model plywood, the thickness of which is chosen 3 mm or 7 mm, this type of material is called three-layer and seven-layer, respectively.

Pencil, ruler.
Sandpaper and a square file for processing parts of the structure.
PVA glue or any other glue that is intended for gluing wood.
Patience and desire to bring joy to the child.

Start building with markings of all elements of the future design, namely with the following:

fuselage;
Wings;
stabilizer.

Attention! You can initially draw drawings of aircraft from plywood on a sheet of paper, then transfer them to plywood fragments. It is also possible to draw elements directly on plywood sheets.

Without the availability of certain dimensions to create a structure, if the model is invented on the go without templates and drawings, they are repelled from specific wingspan indicators when assembling the unit. The optimal parameters for this structure can be taken as 30 cm for the span length. With an increase in the length of the wingspan, the size of the aircraft itself increases accordingly.

Create blanks

If the question arises, how to make an airplane out of plywood, you should start the process with creating preparatory elements:

The constituent elements can be easily drawn by hand, because there is nothing complicated. Usually start with the fuselage, the length of which can be made 10 mm longer than the length of the wings. The body of the product is hand drawn, giving the desired shape to the airplane.
On the body of the fuselage, it is recommended to immediately make joints in the form of spikes for attaching the wings. Thanks to such connections, prefabricated models from this material they are created quite strong and are simply connected with glue, therefore, they must be used.
When the parameters of the wings have already been calculated - a length of 30 cm and a corresponding width of 8-10 cm, you need to take into account the correct proportion. Since the lower wings must necessarily be made a maximum of 10 mm shorter than the upper ones.
It remains to draw the struts as wing support elements and make a sketch of the rear flap, stabilizer.

After completing the above procedures, it's time to start cutting out parts with a jigsaw. According to the drawn contours, all spare parts for the product are carefully cut out. When getting some irregularities, you do not need to be upset, they will not be too noticeable.

Note! The parts obtained by cutting out are polished with emery cloths until the aircraft is assembled. After all, already finished construction it will be inconvenient to grind it, there is also a high probability of damage to the airplane.

Assembly

It is not difficult to make an airplane out of plywood with your own hands. With the fuselage studs already prepared, it's time to start creating the grooves for the wings, as well as for the fasteners on the hull and for the struts that support the wings. It is convenient to use a file during the assembly process and make fitting connections with greater accuracy.

The assembly begins with the installation of a stabilizer, which is glued to the tail of the product. Next, install the wings in their places with an adhesive solution that is applied to the joints and install the upper wings. By flipping the model, racks are installed to support these elements, having previously applied glue to the connection points.

Next, the lower wings are to be installed. In the same way, carefully brush adhesive solution butt joints on the aircraft when it is already assembled. After that, you need to let the structure rest while the glue dries.

Elevator and rudder

The model of the aircraft made of plywood ensures that there are no difficulties during the manufacture of the rudder elements. They may appear during their installation. After all, you need to make an even installation so that there are no difficulties during the flight of the product. When creating a steering wheel, it should be taken into account that the connecting jumper of both halves is small in size and needs an amplifying process. Strengthening can be done with a thin strip of a ruler, putting it on glue. It is possible to increase the area of this site.

There is the possibility of strengthening with the help of carbon tubes. Upon completion of the amplification, they are covered with adhesive tape, after which warming up is strictly prohibited. The adhesive tape holds the element with sufficient quality, and when you try to heat it, it becomes possible to shift the stabilizer. For the rudder, the same recommendations apply.

The elevator is leveled using struts, which are made of thin knitting needles. There should be no problems when gluing into the fuselage, it is a simple process.

And with the rudder, problems can arise - you need to work hard to install it evenly. For gluing into the fuselage, the tips from the rods are used, which are glued to the knitting needles. It is also recommended to use the installation of supports from the rulers. So that the supports for strengthening the elevator are not conspicuous, they can be hidden under white tape.

Chassis

Aluminum rulers for creating the chassis turned out to be ideal option when creating a product. Wheels can be taken from toy products.

It will be reliable to manufacture the structure from one ruler, but you can use two rulers of 15 cm each. Here the extra parts are cut off and bent according to the drawing. It is better at this stage to combine gluing and drilling holes for mounting screws.

Install the chassis after tightening. Before the gluing process used the gluing method desired element, winding it with a pre-thread coil to coil, after which it is lubricated with an adhesive solution.

Hood

This element is recommended to be made, as an option, from a ceiling strip. A rectangle is cut out 7 cm wide and about 30 cm long, applied to the nose of the aircraft and wrapped. The bottom is glued with tape. An important point is considered to choose the right direction of the bends of the ceiling. There are cases where the heating method is used to create suitable part shapes. A propeller from a processor cooler with suitable size. This helps to solve problems with the ventilation of the engine compartments. You can limit yourself to the stickers of the blinds printed on the printer from the drawing diagram.

Drawing Features

When they don’t know how to make an airplane out of plywood, the drawings in the finished version may be appropriate. Gluing is easy - there are marks on the sheets that can be combined to obtain the correct lines without displacement.

When transferring the image to the ceiling, two options can be used:

The first involves fixing the sheet on the ceiling with pins and piercing along the contour with a thin awl. After, for clarity, the holes obtained on the ceiling are connected using a pencil, or you can cut them with a sharp knife. On the straight section it will be sufficient to make a few punctures, and on curves the transfer with a large number of punctures will be accurate.
The second option is suitable if the drawing is printed on an inkjet printer. To transfer, moisten the tile, apply a drawing and smooth surface ironed with a warm iron. The picture remains on a fragment of the material.

When placing the drawing, take into account that the ceiling tile has different bending strength. I check this moment by bending the sheet on different sides.

Here the top and bottom of the aircraft are shown as halves with different sizes. For the correct tracing of lines, it is advised to first draw one half, then make its mirror image. The upper part is divided into two segments - the front one runs from the nose of the car to the leading edge of the wing; back from the end of the product to the trailing edge.

When creating a do-it-yourself plywood plane, drawings are simply indispensable for the workflow.

Homemade aircraft, drawings of machines and a brief description of them built by amateur designers

PHOENIX M-5

A model that is equipped with two Vikhr-25 motors modified for air cooling. The design of the handle and the control scheme of the machine have no analogues in the world. Eminent test pilots did not hide their delight, and even recommended its use on military fighters.
The take-off weight of the machine is two hundred and fifty-five kilograms, and the wing surface area is five point six square meters.

VOLKSPLAN

The model was designed by an amateur American designer, with a pulling screw, which consists of the following units:

Shaft (1), made of duralumin pipe
fuselage spar (2), the material of which is made - pine
hull sheathing (3), made of plywood 3 mm thick
wing spars (4)
arc (5)
tank (6) that holds thirty liters of fuel
frame (7), made of plywood thirty millimeters thick
automobile engine (8), the power of which is sixty horsepower
hood (9), made of fiberglass
spring (10)
technological holes for installing wings (11)
wing braces (12)
his racks (13)
his braces (14)
strut bolt (15)

Specifications:

Takeoff weight is three hundred and forty kilograms
the wing area is nine point twenty-nine tenths of a square meter
speed - one hundred and seventy kilometers per hour

This model passed certification tests and was found fit for use, moreover, it was possible to perform aerobatics and even a “corkscrew” on it.

AGRO-02

Created by Tver designers. The main material used in its manufacture is plywood, canvas, pine and the domestic RMZ-640 engine. The take-off weight of which was two hundred and thirty-five kilograms and the wing area was six point three square meters.

KhAI-40

SINGLE-SEAT BI-PLANES

SINGLE BEAM AIRCRAFT