How to make a miter saw with your own hands. Miter saw for wood: choose, customize, make from grinder and circular. Table circular saw

Miter saw - the same circular saw based on a conventional circular saw. It allows you to cut with great precision under required angle almost all materials - from plastic to metal. There is such a tool from the manufacturer, that is, in finished form, not cheap, and assembling it yourself is not so difficult. Therefore, if you have an urgent need for a miter saw and your arms are growing out of the right place, further information will be very helpful.

Interesting! Having assembled the tool with his own hands, any master can easily find the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it, which will additionally save money.

A miter saw consists of several essential elements

the saw blade itself;
a handle to hold and guide the tool;
engine;
footrest with start button.

Important! Regardless of the manufacturer, such a tool is always equipped with a durable disc, which makes it so versatile in use. If we set out to assemble the trimming with our own hands, then we buy the disc ourselves, and therefore do not forget that in this matter it is better not to save money, but to choose the most durable disc for such needs. A native circular saw blade is fine.

Let's get to the heart of the matter: you have a circular in stock, and you are assembling a homemade miter saw. The first three points are already present in the circular itself, and the fourth may not be needed if you skillfully assemble a guide bar for the saw.

How to make a miter saw

This will require

plywood sheet;
aluminum corners;
self-tapping screws.

Let's start assembling

We cut out a rectangular sheet of plywood and make a long cut on it, along which your trimming will ride;
From above we fasten two guides, for example, from an aluminum corner, to the width of the working plane of the circular itself;
Down to plywood sheet you need to screw on two stands with a height equal to the cutting depth of your saw (5.3 cm).

As a result, we get a guide along which the circular will walk. Depending on how we fix it on the table with the help of such simple mechanism, we can make an accurate cut at any angle. The simplest design option is ready.

What if we want our miter saw to be more functional at work and look like a factory miter saw? In this case, you will have to show more ingenuity.

First, you need to make a bracket and a stand on which the circular will be fixed. Chipboard (27 mm) is an excellent raw material for such a mechanism. With the help of self-tapping screws and aluminum corners, you will get a very decent top end. And the springs fixed on top can make the work on such a saw more convenient;
Secondly, you need to fix the tripod itself on a movable pivoting footboard, make a pendulum saw, thanks to which we will eventually be able to change the facing angle.

Carefully! From what material you choose for the stand and tripod, how securely you attach them to the footboard, not only the quality of work and functionality of the trimmer will depend, but also your personal safety. No wonder they say that « if the carpenter is experienced, then he must be without a finger » ... Secure the circular as securely as possible! Safety is above all!

As for the trimming itself, everything is said about the assembly. However, if we decided to make a saw that looks like a factory saw, then it will be difficult to do without a table.

How to make a do-it-yourself miter saw table

A 19mm MDF board can be a good material for a table.

Measure the depth and width of the entire structure ( miter saw);
Now measure the width and depth of the workbench, on which the table and the trimming itself will stand;
As a result, the lower part of the MDF-board table should be equal to the width and depth of the workbench, and the upper part should consist of two parts and in total be less in length by the width of the miter saw;
The height of the table should be equal to the depth of cut;
Inside the table (between the upper and lower plates), at a distance of 50 cm, it is important to make rigid partitions from the same MDF board. This is necessary so that when pressed, the table does not bend.

Now everything is for sure. The miter saw from a regular circular saw is ready.

Interesting! A miter saw is a rather dangerous piece of equipment in itself, but if you also assembled it with my own hands, the danger of such a mechanism can increase significantly! On the other hand, by assembling all the parts yourself and taking care of all kinds of protective boxes and covers, you can minimize the risk. In this case, the rule applies: « Your safety – only in your hands » .

Miter saws are made by many power tool companies. It is used in everyday life and by professionals. Therefore, the device has many varieties, differing in functionality, dimensions, power and price. When choosing a tool, each buyer is guided by his own needs and capabilities. Someone needs trimming for infrequent use. For example, for repairing an apartment or making doors and windows made of wood in the country. Others use a saw every day at work. Based on these requirements, a tool is selected for domestic or professional needs.

Purpose and application of miter saws

To manually cut the material at an angle, and even straight, you need to make a lot of effort and use special tools. To facilitate this process, electric miter saws were invented. They make it possible to cut workpieces exactly at the required angle and inclination. That is, the angle can be changed both in the horizontal plane and in the vertical one. The tool has found application among assemblers, carpenters and finishers. Miter saws are used to make furniture, doors, skirting boards, windows, flooring and much more. The tool can cut not only wood, but also plastic and metal corners and pipes.

It is convenient, easy and fast to work with a miter saw.

Video: the miter saw in action

Instrument device

The main elements of the miter saw:

Saw blade with protective cover.
Handle with start button.
Engine.
Longitudinal stop.
Stanina.
Ruler.

Types of miter saws, what are the differences

All miter saws are divided into two types:

Miter saws are:

household. The materials from which they are made are not strong enough. Therefore, such devices are not suitable for everyday long-term use;
professional. They have improved specifications and more functionality. They can work in an enhanced mode every day.

Main selection criteria

Before you go to the store and consult with sellers, read the parameters that you should rely on when buying a tool. And then you will be able to rationally make your choice.

power. Affects performance and speed of work. With its increase, the weight and cost of the tool grows. Household trimmers consume less energy than professional ones;
disk size. The depth and speed of the cut depends on it. Also find out if there are removable disks for the selected model of the instrument on the free sale;
cutting parameters. Angle, width and depth. The saw should cut the workpieces at the angle required for your purposes, preferably in both directions. The manufacturer also indicates the maximum depth of cut when working at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees to the surface. The function of limiting the cutting depth is important. It is used when grooving and processing workpieces by thickness;
the presence of a horizontal broach. Allows you to increase the kerf width by moving the cutting part in the horizontal plane. In one pass, you can cut a fairly wide workpiece.
the number of revolutions per minute. Affects the cleanliness of the cut and makes it possible to work with hard materials. The number of revolutions from 4000 and more is a very good indicator.
engine's type:
- collector. It is necessary to check the armature regularly, but such an engine has more torque;
- asynchronous. Runs quieter and longer;
transmission type:
- toothed. No slippage under heavy loads;
- belt. It emits less noise and dampens vibration, but the belt breaks more often than the teeth of the gears wear out;
- straight. There is no gearbox, fewer rubbing parts, but lower torque;
pivot system design. She must:
security systems. The miter saw must contain components that ensure safe use:

Reviews

Miter saw Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut 1350 W

I chose between Makita. The Metaba has a more comfortable working handle and a laser. True, you need to get used to the laser, but it is tuned exactly. I put a clean disc on aluminum, a saw and pieces of wood.
Satisfied, I recommend.
Sakharov Sergey
https://market.yandex.ru/product/10575824/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Miter saw Makita LS0714 1010 W

the device is made of very high quality there are no backlashes. did not spare a single ruble. transported without any problems in a car, you can carry it in one hand. I saw to her: laminate, door frames, lining, plastic, plinth, moldings copes with everything with a bang, if only a table on top
Popov Vasily
https://market.yandex.ru/product/1626905/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Miter Saw DeWALT DW713 1600 W

Decent saw for the cost of 12300r, took it at a discount. I chose between the boshes, but settled on this model. It's just that in boshes, the price often rises due to the accessories included in them (the clamp supporting the long parts of the bar, laser sight), I like the weight, it is average, I will not say that it is light, it seems to me that this device is light and should not be, it inspires confidence. Made very soundly, I really liked the adjustment at the angles, easy and without any torsion there, like the competitors. Big working surface... I chased the backlit model, and I'll tell you it was worth it! The first day I worked late on the street, so I practically did not make additional lighting for myself, because the cutting line was always visible! I recommend XPS.
Just a wonderful native disc with large teeth! Immediately I bought myself a Bosch disk, for a clean cut of laminate rolled up in plastic, and so he lost to a clean one! (I had to use it only for cutting aluminum, which he did just fine).
Rozhkov Evgeniy
https://market.yandex.ru/product/2433397/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Miter saw Makita LS1018L power 1430 W

It smells very much of cheap Chinese, but I bought it at Makita-online with discounts for 26 tr (sanctions, damn it). Visually - low quality manufacturing of the aluminum body of the broaching mechanism (cast, processed with a LARGE file and painted, the paint does not hold well, peels off on a new tool). The turntable is flat, milled, but where it is painted, the story is the same. Not exposed to 0 and angles, as well as the laser (I had to myself, lost 15 minutes). Corner setting scales are PRINTED AND ADAPTED as on the Riobe. some of the sticker is removed from the new, out of the box. Not compact - it takes up more than a meter (1080mm) in transportable condition.
Andrey Vladimirovich
https://market.yandex.ru/product/7306437/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Miter saw ZUBR ZPT-255-1800 PLR with a power of 1800 W

This is my first experience with such a tool.
I set the corners in 5 minutes with the help of a regular square (on the forums they scare that it is necessary to file the guides in inexpensive models equalize). And then work began.
I am quite satisfied with the purchase. If not for the laser, there would be 5 ...
Ivanov Oleg
https://market.yandex.ru/product/14178347/reviews?hid=91657&track=tabs

Tool setup and adjustment

Absolutely any saw needs preliminary adjustment, regardless of the company and model. This is like the first Maintenance... The main thing that is required from the saw is the accuracy of the angle when tilted and with a turn. Any saw can be modified, improved and upgraded. Remove all additions and extensions, such as clamps, from the tool. You will need a scalpel or small knife with a rigid blade. Casting is accompanied by the formation of flash, which must be cut off if it interferes with maintenance.

Side stop

Raise the saw unit. Remove the side stand.
In some saws, it does not have right angle with a bed. The stop touches the base at two points. The bases of these points should be vertical to the surface. If there is no right angle due to uneven paint coat or burr, sand the base surfaces. Cut off any flakes first, if any.
Grind on a disc machine or sandpaper... Place it on a table and rub the stop in longitudinal movements.
Make a small chamfer where it meets the base. So that the chips that inevitably arise during sawing are hidden here. This is to ensure that the chips do not interfere with the formation of the desired cut angle.
Place the stop in place. The fixing holes of the stop are oblong for adjustment. When installed, it can be moved back and forth and rotated.

Rotation fixation unit

Miter saws have two types of dials. One ruler has a removable element. On the other, it is not dismantled, and the limb itself has slots for frequently used angles.

The fixing rod has a conical sharpening and does not fully fit into the slots of the dial.

How to fix an arbitrary angle

There are situations when you need to set an angle that differs by 1–2 degrees from the fixed value. When setting such an angle, a breakdown occurs and a value is fixed, which we do not need. To prevent this from happening, you need to turn the locking knob while pressing the key.

Setting an angle of 90 degrees in the horizontal plane

Most often, users apply a square to the disc and base. it Wrong way for three reasons:

during the installation of the equipment, debris could get in and the equipment was installed unevenly;
the disc itself turned out to be deformed;
when we apply an angle to the rig, a light load is enough to wobble the disc a little.

Prepare a piece of plywood, a thin strip, a 10mm strip and double-sided tape.

Setting other angles

Tilt cutting setup

Video: Setting Up a Miter Saw

Possible malfunctions and repairs

Let's consider common faults.

Divergence of surfaces in the side stop

The surfaces of the side stop converge at some angle or are located in different planes. This greatly affects the accuracy of the sawing. When filing to the right or left, different results are obtained.

Cutting accuracy is impaired

It is necessary to identify the curved element: disc or flange. This operation must not be performed by starting the engine from the mains. Firstly, you risk getting serious injury, and secondly, when the engine is running, this method does not work.

Switch off the saw. Raise the protective cover.
Take a marker and place it on the side of the disc. Keep the marker straight. Rotate the disc until full turn.
Lock the spindle and loosen the disc. Rotate 180 degrees. Tighten it.
Take a marker of a different color and repeat drawing the circle next to the previous one.
See where the half rings are located. If they are on the same part of the disc, then it is crooked. Replace the disc with a new one. If the semirings are on opposite sides then there is a problem with the flange.
Remove the disc and flange. The flange is a support washer that is attached to the shaft with the disc. The reference and landing planes must be parallel. The reference area is formed by turning.
With the disc and flange removed, the saw is completely safe. Run it from the network.
Take a simple pencil and touch the surface to feel if there is any beating. Do not do this with a metal object, as this will impair the accuracy of the surface treatment. If there is a runout, then you need to change the shaft.
If there is no beating, then put the flange and screw it on with the screw. Take your pencil again, start the saw, and touch the flange. If runout is present, the flange must be machined.
To do this, take a block and a nail file. Secure the block with a clamp inside the casing. He will be the support. Start the engine and stick the saw blade into the block a little further from the flange. Move the file gradually towards the flange. This must be done carefully so that the nail file removes a small amount of metal. Drive the file not with a plane, but with a curved part and start from the center to the periphery. This task is long and tedious, but it works 100%.

Engine and gearbox repair

The following factors indicate the presence of breakdowns in the engine or gearbox:

the disk does not spin, but the engine is running;
the smell of burning;
sparking in the area of the engine;
the saw is not picking up power;
the instrument is unstable.

If at least one of these signs is present, proceed with the analysis.

How to make a DIY electric miter saw

The miter saw can be made different ways... Consider options with a grinder and a manual circular.

From the grinder

Remove the disc and the additional handle from the grinder. Cut a sheet of wood or metal for the bed. Metal is more suitable for the grinder. Weld a 30 * 30 mm pipe on both sides. Make an extension for the bed the same width. Weld a 25 * 25 mm pipe to it and insert into the first pipe.
Take the washing machine legs. Screw two nuts to them. One small, the other elongated. So that the height of the legs is adjustable. Weld the legs on the corners of the bed.
Make metal fasteners on the grinder gearbox housing.
Collect the swivel assembly from bicycle scrap metal.
Weld it with one end to the bed, and the other to the grinder.
Place the spring on the pivot assembly that tightens the pads. And a stopper so that the grinder does not fall back.
Saw workbench: drawing marking, trimming installation
1. Make stable table from a metal frame with a table top 40-50 mm thick.
2. At the edge or in the middle, measure the area that the saw will occupy. Set up a platform in free space, similar to the base of the saw.
3. In the area under the saw, make fasteners
4. Place the trimmer on the table and screw it on. Draw a line on the platform to continue with the side fence of the saw.
5. Install and screw the square profile along this line.
6. Install a ruler on the profile.
Buy a miter saw according to your needs. Do not neglect its setting. This process is very precise and subtle. Approach him responsibly. Then you get a workable and durable tool.

To cut a small piece of wood with high quality, a regular circular saw will do. But with repeated repetition of this operation, very precise processing of the ends of blanks of the same dimensions is required. For this purpose, it is best to use a wood cross-cut saw.

It's over complex device than a simple circular saw. It allows you to trim wooden surfaces saws, in which two main characteristics can be changed: the number of teeth and the diameter of the cutting disc.

The main components of the miter saw

Using a miter saw, you can saw workpieces from various materials- plastic, metal, wood. The maximum weight of the unit is about 30 kg or less, depending on the functions it performs. The most widely used miter saws are used in woodworking.

Wood trimming machines consist of several main units.

First, there is a table. For the correct operation of the machine, the table must be installed on a stable support frame. To carry out complex operations, differing from each other in the nature of the impact on the tree, rotary mechanisms and various positioners are attached to the table.

The presence of a saw unit is required. It consists of a shaft and a cutting disc attached to it by means of a drive. Several saw units can be installed on the bed for simultaneous processing different places on the workpiece. The unit consists of an electric motor and a unit for transmitting torque to the shaft.

The mechanism for moving the saw unit along the structure can be simple (assembled from shock-absorbing springs and brackets) and complex (hydraulic or pneumatic automatic). Its functionality is significantly expanded if you add a mechanism that allows you to extend the cutting disc at an angle to the workpiece.

In addition to the main units, the miter saw is completed with auxiliary devices, devices, programming units, simple or complex systems for chip removal.

Characteristics and types of equipment

Woodworking miter saws have a number of general characteristics... With their help, it is easy to choose the unit that best suits the particular process. These common characteristics include:

motor power parameters;
the number of shaft revolutions and the possibility of adjustment;
maximum and minimum diameter of the cutting disc;
dimensions and indicators of the angles of rotation of the saw units;
the distance between the table and the lower edge of the edge of the cutting teeth.

To connect the chip cleaning system, it is necessary that the inlet pipe and the vacuum cleaner tube have the same diameter. This will eliminate the need to attach adapters.

To prevent the workpiece from moving during processing, it can be additionally fixed on the table with special clamps. The configuration and dimensions of the clamps are determined depending on the parameters of the working table of the cross-cut machine and the maximum height of the workpiece being processed.

By the nature of the movement of the saw units, the board trimming machine can belong to one of the following types.

In the rectilinear unit, a rigid cantilever beam is adapted for the movement of the block. The height of the console can vary depending on the size of the wood to be treated.

In the pendulum unit (CME), the disk unit is located on special suspensions so that the finished processed bar has a segmented arcuate protrusion. This is achieved by raising and lowering the cutter during the processing of the workpiece.

In a balancing miter saw, the saw unit is mounted under the table. The knife rises 10-12 times per minute using a pedal mechanism.

Finally, there is stationary machine for trimming. In it, the knife is firmly attached to the selected place on the table surface. The workpiece is processed without changing its position on the table and position cutting tool in relation to lumber.

Self-made from a circular saw

To make a do-it-yourself wood trimming machine, you must carefully read the recommendations of those who have already had a chance to work on a self-assembled unit. Assembly diagram homemade machine pretty simple and straightforward.

To assemble the bed, you need a metal corner and steel sheet not less than 5 mm thick. The motor is mounted on a base with bolts and a stabilizing spring. This is done to smooth the movement of the saw units.

To give the structure strength, regulating supports are included in its composition. The pendulum stand is mounted from a channel, which must be resting against the base of the wood trimming machine.

Note! By picking up each unit, not only according to the need for design, but also in terms of price / quality ratio, you can significantly save on the total cost of a homemade cross-cut machine.

The main advantage of such a unit is the minimum time spent on troubleshooting. Finding them and fixing them in a do-it-yourself machine is much easier than installing a factory assembly.

The approximate maintenance-free life of homemade equipment is up to three years.

In the future, it may be necessary to replace units that have ceased to correctly perform the functions assigned to them. The disadvantages of homemade trims include low performance. It is quite difficult to establish a line production on such a machine.

An example is the factory-made Stromab RS-40 trimmer. This machine can handle workpieces with dimensions up to 400 x 65 mm. Sawing can be done at angles up to 45 °.

One of the main disadvantages of home-made cross-cut saws is the inability to ensure appropriate safety measures. Almost always on homemade products there are no protective covers on the saw units and in the area of moving joints. This can lead to accidents. Also, the presence of minor defects on metal parts.

Professional trimming

A completely different level of functionality, productivity and safety for the professional miter saw. Aggregates industrial production have a lightweight and very stable construction.

All cutting surfaces are reliably covered with protective covers. All saw units are equipped with dust extractor adapters.

The main qualities of professional miter saws are high reliability and accuracy when sawing logs and semi-finished wood products.

An important advantage of professional miter saws is the ability to process workpieces from various materials - plastic, wood, metal. In order to adapt the machine to a certain material, you only need to change the cutting disc.

Prices Russian market for professional trimming ranges from 15 to 30 thousand rubles. If it is necessary to establish small-scale production of wooden parts in the manufacture of furniture, such machines are simply irreplaceable. The most popular and relatively inexpensive professional miter saws are presented in the table.

The scheme of homemade wood trimming includes a gearbox, a rotor, a motor, a carriage and the saw blade itself. Many devices are manufactured with a primer. Blocks are suitable for them planetary type... It is also worth noting that the gearbox includes an adapter and also a regulator. A starter is used to start the modification. Modern devices sold with different types of barriers.

DIY device

The usual do-it-yourself wood trimming is quite simple. First of all, it is worth choosing a motor for modification. It is more expedient to take a single-phase model of low power. Additionally, a contact type starter is required for it. It will have to be installed through the terminal box. The frame for the equipment is made of steel plates, which are rigidly fixed on the sides.

A small plate is soldered to fit the depth gauge. The saw blade must be secured to the stand. The motor is connected through the rotor. The output contacts of the model should be carefully insulated. The primer on many models is located at the top of the structure.

Features of models with double primer

Double primer saws are suitable for fast cutting of wide boards. Many models are produced on single-phase motors, and their frequency is equal to 1500 rpm. It is also worth noting that the devices stand out for their high performance. They are maintenance free. Standard wood trimming is done with a planetary lock. The rotor is attached to it behind the adapter. The casings of the models are used of low density. In some cases, they are fixed on racks. It is more expedient to use starters of the contactor type. To increase the security of the modification, dampers are installed.

Reviews about Makita devices

Saws of the Makita company are distinguished by high quality and efficient motors. Many devices are actively used nowadays. professional builders... Their maximum cutting angle is 40 degrees, and the maximum power indicator can reach 3 kW. Devices differ in frequency and size. When choosing a modification, you should pay attention to the casing of the device. Conventional wood trimming is done with one throttle valve. Their adapters are used with metal clamps. The saw blades are changed using a key, which should be included in the product package.

Opinions about saws based on two-phase motors

Crosscutting with a broach on a tree on a two-phase motor can work for a very long time. In this case, the level of overheating depends on the type of ventilation ducts. Modern modifications stand out for their portability. It is also worth noting that there are many devices with multiple ventilation ducts... Models with two handles enjoy in great demand... The rotors of the models are used both with regulators and without it.

A good homemade wood trimmer has a frequency of 1,700 rpm. Not all modifications are suitable for cutting boards. You also need to remember that models with throttle valves are very expensive in stores. Most of the devices are manufactured with recoil starters. However, there are models with electronic counterparts that are made specifically for professional builders.

Features of models with worm rotors

Saws with worm gears are capable of working with oak and even pine. They have good performance at low power consumption. Many builders prefer them due to their compact size and sturdy stands. Carriages are often used with overlays and are fixed under the motor. Standard wood trimming has a power of 2 kW, but is not capable of boasting a high frequency. Flanged versions are suitable for short-term operation. They have a very low efficiency.

Reviews of Fort devices

Saws of the "Fort" brand, as a rule, receive reviews positive character... The models of this company are chosen for their high performance and high-quality adapters with blockers. Guides are often made on stops. Due to this, a high degree of stabilization is achieved at high speeds. It is also worth noting that there are modifications with valves that are capable of operating at reduced frequencies.

Many devices are manufactured with spindle assemblies. However, the modern models they are missing. Regulators are used to switch modes. Rotors are often installed with an open stem. Support carriages are available with and without clamps. Quite often, wood trimming (pendulum) is used for sawing at a large angle.

Opinion about saws based on a 4 kW motor

Saws based on 4 kW motors are suitable not only for sawing boards, but also for processing fairly wide bars. Many modifications are made with a primer. It is also worth noting that manufacturers provide modifications with two handles on the shelves. They are very different in size.

If we consider the standard model, then its frequency is equal to 120 rpm. It is also worth noting that there are modifications with a duct cooling system. Throttle valves are used without an adapter. Rotors can be found mainly of planetary type, which work through a control unit. Braking systems are used only of the chain type, and the visors are used with protection.

Features of models with a kerf stop

Cut-off saws are classified as universal tools... Starters for modifications can be of mechanical and electronic type. In this case, the primers are used with shutters. Some experts note the convenience of these devices. Limiters are installed, as a rule, under the rotor boxes and do not take up much space.

They can be found with and without retainers. It is also worth noting that the market is overflowing with modifications on contact manifolds. They are distinguished by increased frequency, and motors are mainly used of a single-phase type of low power. The casings are only fitted to the rotors. Therefore, they high level noise. However, there is also professional tools... For normal operation of the limiters, open and open rods are used. closed type... The torque is obtained by means of a spring.

Have the entire assortment at home electric tool too expensive. For example, a circular at home is rarely required. Sawing of boards can be done with a modernized grinder.

A hand-held circular electric saw from a grinder is obtained by replacing a standard cutting disc with a disc for wood.

True, this option is suitable for short cuts. sheet materials or cutting thin strips. At long length cut or on thick bars exists danger of skewing the disc jamming it. It will be much easier to hold the saw if the handle is not positioned perpendicular to the axis of the tool, but is made a continuation of the body.

Craftsmen also make a hand chain saw from a grinder. True, such a tool is dangerous for the user: the absence of a chain stopper can lead to unpredictable consequences. In addition, the chain is not lubricated, which leads to its rapid wear.

Miter saw

Trimming, that is, cross-cutting boards or bars at right angles, is better if you use a special device.

You can also make such a machine from a grinder with your own hands.

To do this, a grinder with a wood disc is fixed on slewing ledge perpendicular to the direction of the length of the board so that the plane of the disc is directed strictly vertically. One attachment point should be located in the area of the gearbox, and the second at the opposite end of the machine.
The gear housing has threaded holes for fixing standard handles... Using the corners and these holes, the grinder must be attached to the moving part of the machine.
The back of the body is attached to the board with a clamp. Protective cover the disc can be used from any power tool of a suitable size.
Closer to vertical support need to fix stop angle... It should be located strictly perpendicular to the plane of the disk, both vertically and horizontally.

The spring at the rear end of the bar serves to return the miter saw to its original position after the end of the cut. Horizontal table must have a transverse groove into which the disc enters when cutting the board. Disc diameter choose based on the width of the boards. So trimming can be done in one go. The main thing, inner hole the disc must match the mounting on the gearbox axis.

When working on such a machine, it should be borne in mind that the drive power is not intended for heavy load... Therefore, the rotating disc must be brought to the surface of the part being cut smoothly, the cut should be made without strong pressure.

Table circular saw

Sometimes there is a need to change the width of the board or the thickness of the bar. The best option for such a job - a circular saw, especially if there are a lot of boards. For cutting boards of small length (1-2 m) it is very useful desktop version circulars. It is not necessary to buy such a machine, you can do it yourself from the same grinder.

The design of a circular saw is much more complicated than a miter saw. The contact time of the saw blade with wood is quite long, therefore, the reliability of fastening the grinder body to the bed should be higher.

This is how one of the options for a table circular may look like.

The photo shows that the desktop consists of two planes:

the upper table is designed to advance the workpiece;
the lower one serves as a stop for the grinder.

The disc passes through a groove in the top surface. If the angle of contact of the two planes is provided with pivoting hinges, then it will be possible to adjust the working height saw blade to reduce the area of rubbing surfaces.

On the upper surface of the table, the head of the bolt is clearly visible, with the help of which the grinder is fixed. Protruding bolt limits the width of the processed board. You can cope with this problem by laying another layer of plywood.

Turning the grinder on and off with the key on the case is rather inconvenient. If the key can be fixed in the working position, then a socket with a switch should be installed on the outside of the machine.

The abutment angle should be as long as possible to prevent the board from deviating from the cutting direction. It is better to fasten the corner so that you can change the working distance between it and the disc: then the width of the cut part will also change.

Stationary circular

You can use the grinder as a working mechanism in stationary conditions. The bed in this case will have a slightly different design. The stationary option implies the availability of free space and a large amount of work. Therefore, the entire structure can be made more solid, more massive, and, therefore, more reliable.

Bed frame can be made from a corner welded joint... Bolted and other types of detachable fasteners lose their adhesion from constant vibration, the structure begins to stagger.

Above metal frame the desktop is attached from wide board or thick plywood. The workpiece will move along it. Stop angle equipped with a movable mount for adjusting the cutting width.

It would be nice to provide for the adjustment of the height of the table or the removal of the disc above its surface - then it will be possible to cut longitudinal grooves in the board.

On the side of the machine there are governing bodies: socket and on / off buttons. V stationary version it makes sense to exclude the key on the grinder body from the diagram. If there is enough space, a high power sander can be used as a drive.

How to make a sawmill from a grinder is shown in this video:

The nuances of using a homemade circular

It should not be overlooked that the grinder, by its main purpose - angle grinder. Therefore, using it as a homemade circular saw, you need to pay attention to the nuances.

Duration of continuous cutting should not exceed 15-20 minutes in order to avoid overheating of the motor.
The standard protection on the blade is in no way suitable for a circular saw. The protective cover can be used from a real circular or made by yourself.

It should be remembered that the rotation speed of the grinder can be more than 10,000 rpm - this is several times higher than the speed of woodworking machines. At this speed, the wood begins to smoke. except unpleasant odor possible fire.