Types of connection of electrical wires in the junction box. Connecting wires - methods of reliable methods for connecting wires of different types, types and cross-sections (120 photos) How best to connect copper wires of different cross-sections

With private construction, sooner or later there is a need for the installation of power grids. Some people seek help from specialists, others want to do it on their own. The process itself is not very difficult if you have certain skills and knowledge of safety standards, but this mainly concerns the connection of wires of the same cross section.

But quite often situations arise when it is necessary to reliably connect three or more wires to each other, and they all have a different cross section. In this regard, the question of how to correctly and safely connect wires of different cross-sections is currently one of the most relevant in the installation of power grids.

Ways of connecting wires of different cross-sections

Compound copper wires different thickness- this is not the most difficult process. However, for maximum reliability and safety, certain requirements must be observed here. There are several ways to connect three wires of different cross-sections:

• welding or soldering;
• using screw terminals;
• using self-clamping terminals;
• bolted connection;
• branch compression;
• using copper lugs.

Three wires of different cross-sections can be reliably connected in any of the listed ways, but it is important to remember that when installing sockets and switches, cables of different thicknesses cannot be connected to one contact. In this case, the thinnest of them will not be pressed tightly enough. And this, in turn, can adversely affect the safety of operation.

Connection of wires of different cross-sections by welding or soldering

The easiest, but quite reliable way to connect cables that have different thicknesses. In this case, the three wires can be connected to each other by rigid twisting with subsequent fixation. But here it should be remembered that reliable connection possible only between wires of approximately the same cross-section. Twisting of wires, whose diameters differ significantly, cannot be reliable.

Twist three wires of different cross-sections together carefully. Each copper strand should tightly wrap around the neighboring one. The gaps between them should be minimal. Otherwise, it will affect the safety of subsequent operation.

Before proceeding directly with the twisting of the three wires, lay them out in front of you and sort by thickness. You cannot wind a thin wire on a thick one - this will affect the quality of the contact. Such a connection will not last long.

Connection of three wires of different cross-section using screw terminals

Three wires of different thicknesses can be reliably connected to each other using special screw clamps ZVI. The clamps are very convenient design and allow you to create contact between cables that have different cross-sections. The strength of the connection is achieved by using separate screws for each clamp.

It is necessary to choose the ZVI clamps taking into account the cross-section of the wires that will be connected, as well as their current load. For reliable contact, it is recommended to connect three wires of adjacent cross-sections. We will conventionally designate the cross-section of the connected conductors as SPP, and the permissible continuous current as DDT. Below are the parameters of the clamps and wires:

• ZVI-3 - SPP 1 - 2.5; DDT - 3;
• ZVI-5 - SPP 1.5 - 4; DDT - 5;
• ZVI-10 - SPP 2.5 - 6; DDT - 10;
• ZVI-15 - SPP 4 - 10; DDT - 15;
• ZVI-20 - SPP 4 - 10; DDT - 20;
• ZVI-30 - SPP 6 - 16; DDT - 30;
• ZVI-60 - SPP 6 - 16; DDT - 60;
• ZVI-80 - SPP 10 - 25; DDT - 80;
• ZVI-100 - SPP 10 - 25; DDT - 100;
• ZVI-150 - SPP 16 - 35; DDT - 150.

At the right choice screw clamp you can create a truly reliable connection that will keep the power grid running smoothly.

Connect wires of different sizes using bolts

Another way to connect wires of different cross-sections to each other is to create contact with bolts, washers and nuts. According to professional electricians, such a connection is the most durable and strongest. The process itself is not too complicated, it takes a minimum of time. The procedure goes as follows:

• copper conductors of the wire are carefully stripped (the length of the stripped section of the conductor depends on the diameter of the bolt);
• the stripped vein is bent in the form of a loop;
• the loop is put on the bolt;
• an intermediate washer is installed on top;
• then a loop of wire of a different cross section is put on and fixed with an intermediate washer.

This continues until all the wires are connected to each other. After putting on the last loop and the last washer, the structure is firmly tightened with a nut.

Using copper lugs to contact the connections

Also very in a simple way creating a reliable connection is the use of copper lugs. They are recommended to be used for contact of wires. large diameter... Before starting the procedure, it is necessary to prepare not only the tips themselves, but also special equipment - crimping pliers or a hydraulic press.

With all the obvious advantages, this type of connection has one (but significant) drawback - rather solid dimensions, because of which the resulting structure may not fit into every junction box. Nevertheless, experts are actively using this method.

The process of creating a contact is as follows:

• wires of different cross-sections are carefully straightened;
• the veins of each of them are stripped by about two to three centimeters;
• a tip is put on each stripped core and clamped using a hydraulic press or crimping pliers;
• then bolts are put on, and the wires are connected with a nut.

After all the work is done, you need to carefully isolate the junction so that dangerous situations do not arise during operation.

Self-assembly of electrical wiring and creation of contacts using terminals

Universal clamping terminals appeared on the market relatively recently, but almost immediately they began to be in serious demand not only among specialists, but also among potential customers who prefer everything electro assembly work at home to carry out independently.

Self-clamping terminals can be used to create strong and reliable contacts between several wires ( three and more). The main advantage of such terminal blocks is their almost limitless functionality - they can be used to connect wires whose sizes differ significantly.

The design of the terminals provides for the presence of holes into which pre-stripped conductors are inserted. For example, a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm can be inserted into one hole, a wire with a diameter of 4 mm can be inserted into the other, a wire with a diameter of 4 mm can be inserted into the third, and so on. And after connecting them, the contact will be strong and reliable enough.

There are several more ways how to connect three or more wires of different diameters, but they are rarely used due to the complexity and duration of the process itself. If you want to use one of them, consult a specialist who is competent in this particular area in advance.

Electricity is not an area where you need to save money. It is advisable to do everything carefully, to select high-quality materials, to approach the choice of sizes / diameters / ratings carefully. To begin with, even connecting the conductors must be correct. And choosing ways to connect wires is not nearly as easy as it seems.

There are about a dozen ways to connect wires. In general, they can be divided into two groups: those that require special equipment or specific skills and those that anyone can successfully use. House master- they do not require any special skills.

The first group includes:

• Soldering. When connecting wires of small diameter in the amount of 2-3 pieces - very reliable method... True, it requires a soldering iron and some skills in using it.
• Welding. We need a welding machine and special electrodes. But the contact turns out to be reliable - the conductors are fused into a monolith.
• Crimping with sleeves. We need sleeves and special pliers. Liners are selected according to certain rules that you need to know. The connection is reliable, but you will have to cut it to reseal it.

All these methods of connecting wires are performed mainly by specialists. If you have skills in handling a soldering iron or welding machine, having practiced on unnecessary scraps, you can do them yourself.

Some ways of connecting wires are more popular, others less

Wiring methods that do not require any specific skills are becoming more and more popular. Their advantage is quick installation, reliable connection. Disadvantage - "connectors" are needed - terminal blocks, clamps, bolts. Some of them cost quite decent money(Wago terminal blocks, for example), although there are inexpensive options- screw terminal blocks.

So here are the ways to connect wires, which are simple to perform:

There are two opposing opinions among professionals. Some believe that new ways of connecting wires - clamps - are the best way out, since they speed up installation without compromising the quality of the connection. Others say that someday the springs will weaken and the contact will deteriorate. In this matter, the choice is yours.

Technical nuances of different types of wire connections

All the types of wire connections described above are used when laying electrical wiring, but a specific type is selected based on several characteristics:

Consider each connection method, the technology for its implementation and the feasibility of using it in various situations.

Soldering electrical wires

One of the oldest and most widespread types of compounds. To work, you will need rosin, solder and a soldering iron. The soldering process is as follows:

Actually, this is the soldering electrical wires finished. Not the most difficult process, but it requires certain skills. The main thing is to warm up the junction enough so that the solder flows between all the wires. In this case, it is impossible to overheat, otherwise the insulation will melt. This is the art - not to burn the insulation, but to provide a reliable contact.

When can soldering be used? This method of connecting wires works great in low-current electrics. When connecting wires in a junction box, it is no longer very convenient. Especially if there are a lot of wires and / or they are of large diameter. Soldering such a twist is not a task for beginners. In addition, when trying to lay the joint in the junction box, the soldering begins to deteriorate. Up to the point that some wires fall off. In general, the method is good for connecting small diameter conductors.

Welding conductors in electrical connections

One of the most reliable ways wire connections - welding. During this process, the metal of the individual conductors is brought to the melting point, mixed, and after cooling it is a monolith. This method works very well with large diameters or with a large number of conductors being connected. It is distinguished not only by excellent contact, which does not weaken over time and does not change its characteristics. It is also mechanically very strong - the fused part does not allow the joint to fall apart even under heavy loads.

Drop at the end of the twist - molten aluminum

There are also disadvantages. The first is precisely that the conductors are fused, that is, the connection is completely one-piece. If you need to repack it, you have to remove the fused part and start everything anew. To be able to do this, you always need to leave a small reserve along the length of the wires. The second drawback is that you need a welding machine, handling skills, special electrodes for welding aluminum or copper. The main task in this case is not to burn off the insulation, but to melt the conductors. So that this can be done, they are stripped of insulation by about 10 cm, tightly twisted into a bundle, and then welded at the very end.

Another disadvantage of welding wires is a laborious process, which also requires jewelry precision in handling the welding machine. Due to the combination of these qualities, many professional electricians do not like this method. If you pull the wiring "for yourself" and know how to handle the equipment, you can spend a certain amount of time. Just pre-practice on scraps, select the amperage and welding time. Only after you have succeeded several times perfectly, you can start welding wires "in real life".

Crimping

Another method that requires special equipment is crimping the wires with sleeves. There are copper and aluminum sleeves of different diameters. The material is selected depending on the material of the conductor, and the size is selected according to the diameter and number of wires in a particular connection. They should fill almost all the space inside the sleeve, but at the same time there should be free space. The quality of the contact depends on the correct choice of the sleeve size. This is the main difficulty of this method of connecting wires: the sleeve should not be too large or too small.

The technology of work is as follows:

• The conductors are stripped from insulation (the length of the stripped section is slightly more than the length of the sleeve).
• Each conductor is stripped to pure metal (remove oxides sandpaper with small grain).
• The wires are twisted, inserted into the sleeve.
• Crimped with special pliers.

It seems that it is not difficult, but it is in the selection of the liner and the presence of ticks that the whole difficulty is. You can, of course, try to squeeze with pliers or pliers. But it is impossible to guarantee normal contact in this case.

Twisting

In the first section of the article, we deliberately omitted the twisting of wires. According to the current standard, it cannot be used because it does not provide proper contact and reliability of the connection. This method can replace any other way of connecting wires.

Yes, the wiring was done on twists 20-30 years ago and everything worked fine. But what was the load on the network then, and what is it now ... Today, the number of equipment in an ordinary apartment or a private house has increased significantly and most of the equipment is demanding on power supply. Some types will simply not work at reduced voltage.

Why is twisting so bad? Wires twisted into a bundle do not make good contact. At first, everything is fine, but over time, the metal becomes covered with an oxide film, which significantly worsens the contact. With insufficient contact, the junction begins to heat up, an increase in temperature causes more active formation of an oxide film, which further worsens the contact. At some point, the twist heats up very much, which can lead to a fire. It is for this reason that it is better to choose any other method. There are some that are even faster and easier to do, but which are more reliable.

Isolation of connections

All the above-described methods of connecting wires - welding, soldering, crimping with a sleeve - provide for their insulation, since bare conductive conductors must be protected. For these purposes, electrical tape or heat shrink tubes are used.

Everyone probably knows how to use electrical tape, but we will tell you a little about heat shrink tubes. This is a hollow polymer tube, which, when the temperature rises, significantly reduces its diameter (by 2-6 times, depending on the type). The size is selected so that the pre-shrinkage volume is larger than the diameter of the insulated wires, and the post-shrinkage volume is smaller. In this case, snug fit polymer, which guarantees a good degree of insulation.

Heat shrink tubing for insulating conductors can be of different diameters and colors

In addition to size, heat shrink tubes are selected for special characteristics. They are:

• heat resistant;
• light stabilized (for outdoor use);
• oil and petrol resistant;
• resistant to chemicals.

The cost of heat shrinkable tubes is not very high - from $ 0.5 to $ 0.75 per 1 meter. Their length should be slightly more than the length of the bare conductors - so that one edge of the tube is pulled on the insulation of the conductors by about 0.5 cm, and the other sticks out by 0.5-1 cm. After the tube is stretched, take a heat source (you can use a lighter) and heat the tube. Heating temperature can be different - from 60 ° C to + 120 ° C. After the connection is covered, heating is stopped, after which the polymer quickly cools.

It takes a little time to insulate the wires with a heat shrinkable tube - it counts in seconds - and the quality of the insulation is high. Sometimes, for greater reliability, they can use two tubes - a little smaller and a little larger diameter... In this case, first put on and warm up one tube, then the second. Such connections can be operated even in water.

Terminal blocks

This method is also preferred by electricians, but it can be easily used by a person who can hold a regular screwdriver in his hands. This is one of the first ways to connect electrical wires without soldering. Today, on almost every electrical appliance, you can see a variant of this connection - this is the output block to which the power cord is connected.

Terminal blocks are a contact plate that is sealed in a plastic (polymer) or carbolite housing. They cost very little, they can be found in almost any store that sells electrical goods.

Terminal blocks - convenient, inexpensive, allow you to connect copper and aluminum wires, conductors of different diameters, single- and stranded

The connection takes place literally in seconds. The insulation is removed from the conductor (by about 0.5-0.7 cm), the oxide film is removed. Two conductors are inserted into the socket - one opposite the other - and fixed with bolts. These bolts press the metal against the contact plate, providing the connection.

The advantage of this connection method: you can connect wires of different cross-sections, single-core with stranded. The disadvantage is that only a pair of wires are connected. To connect three or more, it is necessary to install jumpers.

PPE caps

Another way to connect wires that does not require special skills is to install PPE caps. They represent a plastic cone-shaped body, inside which a spring is sealed. There are they different sizes- from 0 to 5. You can connect wires of different diameters - the minimum and maximum and minimum total cross-section of the wires to be connected is written on each package. In addition, there are casings simply in the form of a cone, there are lugs with stops that facilitate their installation. When choosing, pay attention to the quality of the plastic - it should not bend.

Connecting wires with PPE is very simple: you strip the insulation, collect the wires in a bundle, insert them inside the cap and start twisting. A spring inside the cap grips the conductors, helping to twist them. The result is a twist that is outside wrapped in spring wire. That is, the contact is very high quality and good. This method of connecting wires with PPE caps has been used for a long time in Europe and America, it came to us about 10 years ago.

If you need ways to connect wires without welding - consider PPE

There is another way: first, the wires are twisted, then caps are put on them. This method was invented by a Russian company that produces these connectors for wires - KZT. But this technique takes more time, and the quality of the connection is no different.

There is one more point: how long to strip the wire from the insulation. Manufacturers in this regard give clear instructions - for each size its own length of bare conductors. It is designed so that all bare conductors are inside the enclosure. If you do this, the connection does not require additional isolation, which greatly speeds up the process. In addition, the expanded lower part does not interfere with heat dissipation and such a connection heats up less.

Practicing electricians advise stripping the wires by 5-10 cm, and insulating the remaining twist without insulation. This is argued by the fact that the contact area with this option is larger. It is so, but this option heats up more. And the standard solution has reliability. contact problems do happen (with normal quality of PPE).

Clamps Wago

The most heated debate flared up specifically about Vago. Some people like this product unconditionally, others don't like it. Moreover, no less categorically. Opponents of Wago don't like the fact that the contact is spring-based. They say that she may weaken. This will lead to poor contact and overheating. And they give a photo with melted clamps. Proponents of this method conduct tests and comparisons, saying that a properly selected branded clamp serves for many years without signs of deterioration in contact. And the manufacturers say that, subject to the technology, Wago terminal blocks can be operated for 25-35 years. It is important to choose the right type and parameters and not buy a fake (there are a lot of them).

There are two types of Vago clamps. The first series is slightly less expensive, called Wago. These clamps are suitable for connecting solid and stranded wires with a cross section of 0.5-4 mm2. For conductors with smaller or larger cross-sections, there is another series - Cage Clamp. It has a very wide range of use - 0.08-35 mm2, but also a great cost. In any case, contact is provided by a good copper contact plate. The special shape of the plate allows for reliable contact.

Detachable

In addition, Vago spring-loaded clamps are split (222 series) and one-piece (773 and 273 series). Detachable ones are convenient to install in those places where network configuration changes are possible. For example, in junction boxes. They have levers with which the wires are clamped or released. Wago plug-in terminal blocks can connect from 2 to 5 conductors. Moreover, they can be of different sections, type (single-core and multi-core). The order of connecting the wires is as follows:

We repeat the same operation with other (other) wires. All this takes a matter of seconds. Very fast and convenient. Not surprisingly, many professional electricians forgot other ways to connect wires.

One-piece

One-piece series differ in structure: there is a clamp body and a cap. The cap can be made of transparent polymer (773 series) or opaque plastic (223). In the case there are holes into which wires stripped from insulation are inserted.

To ensure normal contact, you just need to properly remove the insulation - exactly 12-13 mm. These are the requirements of the manufacturer. After the conductor is inserted, its bare part should be in the terminal block, and the insulation should rest against the case. Under these conditions, the contact will be reliable.

Bolted connection

Another type of connection of electrical wires with a solid experience is bolted. It is called so because a bolt, nut and several washers are used to connect the wires. The contact due to the use of washers is quite good, but the whole structure takes up a lot of space and is inconvenient to lay. It is used mainly if it is necessary to connect conductors made of different metals - aluminum and copper.

The order of assembly of the connection is as follows:

• We clean the wires from insulation.
• From the stripped part, we form a loop, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the bolt.
• We put on the bolt in the following sequence
  • washer (it rests against the head of the bolt);
  • one of the conductors;
  • another washer;
  • second conductor;
  • the third washer;
• We tighten everything with a nut.

So you can connect not only two, but also three or more wires. Please note that tightening the nut should not only be done by hand. Must use spanners, make a solid effort.

The best ways to connect wires for different occasions

Since they can connect different wires, they can be operated in different conditions, then optimal way it is necessary to choose taking into account all these nuances. Here are the most common situations:

These are the most common custom connections.

When connecting wires of different diameters in series, the maximum load current will be determined by the cross-section of the wire with a smaller diameter. For example, a connection is made of copper wires with a diameter of 1.6 mm and 2 mm. In this case, the maximum load current on the wiring, which is determined from the table, will be 10 A, and not 16 A, as for a wire with a diameter of 2 mm.

Twisted connection of electrical wires

Until recently, twisting was the most common way of connecting wires when performing electrical wiring, due to its availability, it was enough to have a knife and pliers from the tool. But, according to statistics, twisting is not a reliable way to connect conductors.

According to the rules for electrical installations (PUE), the twisting type connection during the installation of electrical wiring is prohibited. But, in spite of the noted drawbacks, the twisting method is now widely used. The twisting of conductors of low-precision circuits, subject to certain rules, is quite justified.

The photo on the left shows how, it is unacceptable to twist. If one conductor is twisted around the other, the mechanical strength of such a connection will be insufficient. When twisting wires, it is necessary to make at least three turns of wires around each other. In the middle photo, the twisting is done correctly, but the copper conductor with the aluminum one is twisted, which is not permissible, since when copper contacts aluminum, an EMF of more than 0.6 mV occurs.

In the photo on the right, the twisting of copper and aluminum wires is done correctly, since the copper wire is tinned with solder before twisting. You can twist several wires together at once, in a junction box, it happens, they twist up to 6 conductors, wires of different diameters and from different metals, a stranded wire with a single wire. Only a stranded wire must be made single-core, having previously soldered with solder.

Soldering electrical wires

The connection of copper wires with high-quality soldering is the most reliable and practically not inferior to a solid wire. All of the above examples of wire twists, except for aluminum and tinsel, when tinning the conductors before twisting and then soldering them with solder, will be reliable along with solid wires. The only drawback is the extra laboriousness of the work, but it's worth it.

If you need to connect a pair of wires and the conductors from twisting should be directed to different sides, then use a slightly different type of twisting.

Splicing two pairs double wires using the method described below, it is possible to obtain a compact and more beautiful connection by twisting both single-core and multi-core pairs of conductors. This twisting method can be successfully applied, for example, when splicing broken wires in a wall, extending a wire when moving an outlet or switch from one place on the wall to another, when repairing or extending the length of a carrying cable.

To obtain a reliable and beautiful connection, it is necessary to adjust the lengths of the ends of the conductors with a shift of 2-3 cm.

Twist the conductors in pairs. With this type of twisting, two turns are enough for a single-core wire, and five for a multi-core wire.

If you plan to hide the twist under plaster or in another inaccessible place, then the twists must be soldered. After soldering, sandpaper the solder to remove any sharp icicles of solder that could puncture and stick out of the insulation. Soldering can be dispensed with if the connection is accessible and currents are not large flowing through the conductors, but the durability of the connection without soldering will be much lower.

Due to the shift of the twisting points, there is no need to isolate each of the joints separately. We attach on both sides along the conductors along a strip of insulating tape. Finally, you need to wind three more layers of insulating tape. According to the requirements of the Electrical Safety Rules, there must be at least three layers.

Wires built and soldered in the way described above can be safely laid in the wall and plastered on top. Before laying, it is advisable to protect the connection with a PVC tube, dressed in advance on one of the pairs of wires. I have done this many times, and the reliability has been confirmed by time.

Connection of wires in junction boxes

When I moved into an apartment built in 1958 and began to make repairs, I immediately encountered the blinking of lighting bulbs in time with the blows of a hammer on the walls. The primary task of repair arose, conducting an audit of the junction boxes. Opening them showed the presence of poor contact in the twists of copper wires. To restore contact, it was necessary to disconnect the twists, strip the ends of the wires with sandpaper and twist again.

When attempting to disconnect, I encountered a seemingly insurmountable obstacle. The ends of the wires broke off even without effort. Over time, copper lost its elasticity and became brittle. When stripping the wire, the insulation was obviously cut with a knife blade in a circle and notched. In these places, the wire broke off. Copper was hardened by temperature fluctuations.

To restore elasticity to copper, unlike ferrous metals, you can heat it to red and quickly cool it. But for this case, such a technique is not acceptable. The ends of the wires no more than 4 cm long remained. There was no choice for the connection. Only solder.

He exposed the wires with a soldering iron, melting the insulation, tinned them with solder, tied them in groups of tinned copper wire and filled them with solder using a 60-watt soldering iron. The question immediately arises, how to solder the wires in the junction box if the wiring is de-energized? The answer is simple, with a soldering iron powered by a battery.

So I updated the connections in all junction boxes, spending no more than 1 hour on each. I am completely sure of the reliability of the connections made, and this has been confirmed by the 18 years that have passed since that time. Here is a photo of one of my boxes.

When aligning the walls with Rotband in the hallway and installing the stretch ceiling, the junction boxes became a hindrance. All of them had to be opened, and the reliability of the soldered connection was confirmed, they were in perfect condition... So I boldly hid all the boxes in the wall.

The currently practiced connections and using the Wago flat spring clamp terminal block greatly reduce the time required for installation work, but are much inferior in reliability to solder connections. And in the absence of spring-loaded contacts in the block, the connections in high-current circuits are not reliable at all.

Mechanical connection of wires

Soldering is the most reliable way of connecting wires and contacts. But it has drawbacks - non-separability of the obtained connections and great laboriousness of the work. Therefore, the most common type of connection of wires with electrical contacts of devices is threaded, screws or nuts. For the reliability of this type of connection, they must be correctly performed.

Linear expansion from a change in temperature is different for metals. Aluminum changes the linear dimensions especially strongly, then downward, brass, copper, iron. Therefore, over time, a gap forms between the contact of the joined metals, which increases the contact resistance. As a result, to ensure the reliability of the connections, it is necessary to tighten the screws periodically.

In order to forget about maintenance, additional slotted washers are installed under the screws, which are called split or Grover. Grover selects the resulting gaps and thus ensures high contact reliability.

Often, electricians are lazy, and the end of the wire is not twisted into a ring. In this embodiment, the area of ​​contact of the wire with the contact pad of the electrical appliance will be several times smaller, which reduces the reliability of the contact.

If the formed ring of the wire is slightly flattened with a hammer on the anvil, the contact area will increase several times. This is especially true when forming a ring of a stranded wire soldered with solder. Instead of a hammer, you can give flatness with a file by grinding off the ring a little at the points of contact with the contacts.

This is how it should be done perfect threaded connection of wires to the contact pads of electrical appliances.

Sometimes it is required to connect copper and aluminum conductors to each other, or more than 3 mm in diameter. In this case, the most affordable is the threaded connection.

The insulation is removed from the wires for a length equal to four diameters of the screw. If the veins are covered with oxide, then it is removed with sandpaper and rings are formed. A spring washer, a simple washer, a ring of one conductor, a simple washer, a ring of another conductor, a washer and, to top it off, a nut are put on the screw, screwing the screw into which the entire package is tightened until the spring washer is straightened.

For conductors with a core diameter of up to 2 mm, an M4 screw is sufficient. The connection is ready. If the conductors are made of the same metal or when connecting an aluminum wire with a copper one, the end of which is tinned, then the washer does not need to be laid between the conductor rings. If the copper wire is stranded, then it must first be plated with solder.

Wire connection terminal block

The connection of wires with low current load can be done using terminal blocks. Structurally, all terminal blocks are arranged in the same way. Thick-walled brass tubes with two threaded holes on the sides in each are inserted into the combs of the body made of plastic or carbolite. The wires to be connected are inserted into the opposite ends of the tube and fixed.

Tubes come in different diameters and are selected depending on the diameters of the conductors to be connected. You can insert as many wires into one tube as its inner diameter allows.

Although the reliability of the connection of wires in the terminal blocks is lower than when connecting with soldering, much less time is spent on wiring. The indisputable advantage of terminal blocks is the ability to connect copper and aluminum wires in electrical wiring, since brass tubes are plated with chrome or nickel.

When choosing a terminal block, you need to take into account the current that will pass through the switched wires of the wiring and the required number of terminals in the comb. Long combs can be cut into several short ones.

Connecting wires using a terminal block
with flat spring clamp Wago

Terminal blocks with a flat spring clip Wago (Vago) are widely used. German manufacturer... Wago terminal blocks are available in two designs. Disposable, when the wire is inserted without the possibility of withdrawal, and with a lever that allows you to easily insert and remove the wires.

The photo shows a disposable terminal block Wago. It is designed to connect all types of single-core wires, including copper with aluminum cross-section from 1.5 to 2.5 mm 2. At the request of the manufacturer, the block is designed to connect electrical wiring in junction and junction boxes with a current strength of up to 24 A, but I doubt it. I think that you should not load the Wago terminals with a current of more than 10 A.

Wago spring terminal blocks are very convenient for connecting chandeliers, connecting wires in junction boxes. It is enough just to forcefully insert the wire into the hole of the block, and it will be securely fixed. In order to remove the wire from the block, considerable effort is required. After removing the wires, deformation of the spring contact may occur and a reliable connection of the wires when reconnecting is not guaranteed. This is a big disadvantage of the disposable terminal block.

A more convenient Wago terminal block is reusable with an orange lever. Such terminal blocks allow you to connect and, if necessary, separate any electrical wiring wires, single-core, multi-core, aluminum in any combination with a cross section from 0.08 to 4.0 mm 2. Designed for currents up to 34 A.

It is enough to remove the insulation by 10 mm from the wire, lift up the orange lever, insert the wire into the terminal and return the lever to its original position. The wire will be securely fixed in the terminal block.

The Wago terminal block is a state of the art tool-free wire connection quickly and reliably, but is more expensive than traditional ways connections.

One-piece wire connection

In some cases, when it is not intended to switch the wires in the future, you can connect them in an one-piece way. This type of connection is highly reliable, and is advisable in hard-to-reach places, for example, connecting the ends of a nichrome spiral with copper current-carrying conductors in a soldering iron.

Crimping thin wires

A simple and reliable way to connect wire cores is crimping. In a piece of copper or aluminum, depending on the metal of the wires to be connected, the conductors are inserted into the tubes, and the tube is pushed in the middle with a tool called a press pliers.

Crimping can be used to connect both single-core and stranded wires in any combination. The diameter of the tube must be selected depending on the total cross-section of the conductors. It is desirable that the conductors fit tightly. Then the reliability of the connection will be high. If in a stranded wire the conductors are twisted together, then it is necessary to develop and straighten them. You do not need to twist the wire cores together. The prepared conductors are inserted into the tube and crimped with pressing tongs. The connection is ready. It remains only to insulate the connection.

Crimping tips are commercially available with an insulating cap. Pressing is performed by squeezing the tube together with the cap. The connection is immediately isolated. Since the cap is made of polyethylene, it deforms during crimping and is held securely, ensuring reliable insulation of the joint.

The disadvantage of the connection by crimping should include the need for special press- ticks. Pliers can be made independently from pliers with side cutters. It is necessary to round off the side cutter blades and make a groove in the middle of them. After such a refinement of the pliers, the edges of the side cutters will become blunt and will no longer be able to bite, but only squeeze.

Connection of wires of a larger cross-section by crimping

To connect electrical wires of a larger cross-section, for example, in power panels of houses, special lugs are used, which are crimped using universal press tongs, for example, of the type PK, PKG, PMK and PKG.

For crimping each size of the tip or sleeve requires its own die and punch, a set of which is usually present in the set of pliers.

To crimp the tip onto the wire, the insulation is first removed from the wire, the wire is tucked into the tip hole and inserted between the die and the punch. The long handles of the press pliers are compressed. The tip deforms by crimping the wire.

In order to choose the right die and punch for the wire, they are usually marked and the branded press tongs have an engraving on the die for crimping what section of the wire the die is intended for. The number 95, embossed on the lug, means that this matrix is ​​designed for crimping in the lug of a wire with a cross section of 95 mm 2.

Rivet wire connection

It is carried out using screw connection technology, only a rivet is used instead of a screw. The disadvantages include the impossibility of disassembly and the need for a special tool.

The photo shows an example for connecting copper and aluminum conductors. More details about the connection of copper and aluminum conductors are described in the article of the site "Connecting aluminum wires". In order to connect the conductors with a rivet, first put an aluminum conductor on the rivet, then a spring washer, then a copper and a flat washer. Insert the steel rod into the riveter and squeeze its handles until it clicks (this will cut off the excess steel rod).

When connecting conductors made of the same metal, there is no need to lay a split washer (grover) between them, but to put the grover on the rivet first or last but one, the last must be an ordinary washer.

Connecting wires broken in the wall

The repair should start with very careful removal of the plaster in the damaged area of ​​the wires. This work is done with a chisel and hammer. As a chisel when laying electrical wiring in the wall, I usually use a rod from a broken screwdriver with a sharpened end of a blade.

Connecting copper wires broken in the wall

A piece of copper wire is taken, with a cross section not less than the cross section of the broken wire. This piece of wire is also covered with a layer of solder. The length of this insert should provide an overlap of the connected ends of the wires by at least 10 mm.

The insert is soldered to the joined ends. Solder should not be saved. Then the insulating tube is slid in such a way as to completely cover the joint. If a sealed moisture-resistant connection is required, then before putting on the tube, you need to cover the soldered joint with silicone.

Connecting aluminum wires broken in the wall

A prerequisite for obtaining a reliable mechanical connection of aluminum wires is the use of a grover washer. The connection is assembled as follows. A grover is put on the M4 screw, then an ordinary flat washer, rings of wires to be connected, then a simple washer and nut.

Step-by-step instructions for connecting broken wires in the wall are described in the article "Connecting broken wires in the wall"

Connection of wires with plug-in terminals

Widely applied in household appliances and cars detachable connection of conductors using plug-in terminals, which are put on contacts with a thickness of 0.8 and a width of 6.5 mm. Reliability of terminal fixation is ensured by the presence of a hole in the center of the contact, and a protrusion in the terminal.

Sometimes the conductors break off, and more often the terminal itself burns out due to poor contact and then it becomes necessary to replace it. Usually, the terminals are pressed onto the ends of the conductors using special pliers. Crimping can also be done with pliers, but you do not always have a new replacement terminal at hand. You can successfully use a used one by installing the terminal according to the following technology.

First you need to prepare the old terminal for re-installation. To do this, holding the terminal with pliers for the press-in place, you need to spread the antennae that squeeze the insulation to the sides with an awl or a screwdriver with a thin sting. Further, the wire is repeatedly bent, until it breaks off at the point of exit from the press fitting. To speed up, you can cut this place with a knife.

When the wire is separated from the terminal, a place for soldering is prepared with a file. You can completely grind it off until the remaining wire is free, but this is not necessary. It turns out to be a flat area.

The resulting area is broken through with solder. The conductor is also stripped and tinned with solder using a soldering iron.

It remains to attach the conductor to the prepared place of the terminal and warm up the soldering irons. The antennae fixing the wire are bent after soldering the wire to the terminal, since if they are squeezed before soldering, the antennae will melt the insulation.

It remains to pull the insulating cap, put the terminal on the desired contact and check the reliability of fixation by pulling the wire. If the terminal has come off, then it is necessary to tighten its contacts. A homemade soldered terminal on a wire is much more reliable than one obtained by crimping. Sometimes the cap is so tightly fitted that it cannot be removed. Then it needs to be cut and, after installing the terminal, it must be covered with insulating tape. You can also stretch a piece of PVC or heat shrink tubing.

By the way, if you hold a vinyl chloride tube in acetone for about five minutes, then it increases in size by one and a half times and becomes plastic, like rubber. After evaporation of acetone from its pores, the tube returns to its original size. In this way, about 30 years ago, I insulated the base of light bulbs in a Christmas tree garland. The insulation is still in excellent condition. I still hang this garland of 120 6.3 V bulbs on the tree every year.

Splicing stranded wires without twisting

Splicing stranded wires can be done in the same way as single-stranded wires. But there is a more perfect way, in which the connection is more accurate. First, you need to adjust the lengths of the wires with a shift of a couple of centimeters and strip the ends to a length of 5-8 mm.

Fluff the slightly cleaned areas of the pair to be connected and insert the resulting "panicles" into each other. In order for the conductors to take a neat shape, they must be pulled together with a thin wire before soldering. Then grease with soldering varnish and solder with solder.

All conductors are soldered. We clean the soldering points with sandpaper and insulate. We attach one strip of electrical tape on both sides along the conductors and wind a couple more layers.

This is what the connection looks like after covering with insulating tape. Can be improved further appearance, if you sharpen the places of the rations with a file on the side of the insulation of adjacent conductors.

The strength of the connected stranded wires without soldering twisting is very high, which is clearly shown in the video. As you can see, the weight of the monitor is 15 kg, the connection can withstand without deformation.

Connecting wires with a diameter less than 1 mm twisted

We will consider the twisting of thin conductors using the example of cable splicing twisted pairs for computer networks. For twisting, thin conductors are freed from insulation for a length of thirty diameters with a shift relative to adjacent conductors and then twisted in the same way as thick ones. The conductors must wrap each other at least 5 times. Then the twists are bent in half with tweezers. This technique increases the mechanical strength and reduces the physical size of the twist.

As you can see, all eight conductors are stranded with a shift, which eliminates the need to insulate each of them separately.

It remains to tuck the conductors into the cable sheath. Before refueling, to make it more convenient, you can pull off the conductors with a coil of insulating tape.

It remains to secure the cable sheath with insulating tape and the twist connection is completed.

Connection of copper wires in any combination by soldering

When connecting and repairing electrical appliances, you have to lengthen and connect wires with different cross-sections in almost any combination. Consider the case of connecting two stranded conductors with different cross sections and number of cores. One wire has 6 conductors with a diameter of 0.1 mm, and the other 12 conductors with a diameter of 0.3 mm. Such thin wires cannot be reliably connected with a simple twist.

With a shift, you need to remove the insulation from the conductors. The wires are tinned with solder, and then the smaller wire is wound around the larger wire. It is enough to wind a few turns. The place of twisting is soldered with solder. If you want to get direct connection wires, then the thinner wire is bent and then the junction is insulated.

The same technology is used to connect a thin stranded wire with a single-core wire of a larger cross-section.

As is obvious from the above described technology, you can connect any copper wires any electrical circuits. It should not be forgotten that the permissible current strength will be determined by the cross-section of the thinnest wire.

Television coaxial cable connection

There are three ways to lengthen or splice a coaxial television cable:
- TV extension cord, on sale are from 2 to 20 meters
- using an adapter TV F socket - F socket;
- soldering with a soldering iron.

Tinsel wire connection
twisted with solid or stranded conductor

If it is necessary to give the cord a very high flexibility and, at the same time, a great durability of the wire is done using a special technology. Its essence lies in the winding of very thin copper ribbons on cotton thread. This wire is called tinsel.

The name is borrowed from tailors. The ceremonial uniforms of high military ranks, coats of arms and much more are embroidered with gold tinsel. Tinsel wires made of copper are currently used in the production of high-quality products - headphones, stationary telephones, that is, when the cord is subjected to intense bending during use of the product.

As a rule, there are several tinsel conductors in a cord, and they are twisted together. It is practically impossible to solder such a conductor. To attach tinsel to the contacts of the products, the ends of the conductors are crimped in the terminals with a special tool. The following technology can be used to make a reliable and mechanically strong twist connection without tools.

Tinsel conductors of 10-15 mm and conductors with which it is required to connect tinsel to a length of 20-25 mm with a shift using a knife in the manner described in the article of the site "Preparing wires for installation" is freed from insulation. The tinsel thread is not removed.

Then the wires and the cord are applied to each other, the tinsel is bent along the conductor and the wire core is tightly wound onto the tinsel pressed against the insulation. It is enough to make three to five turns. Next, the second conductor is twisted. You will get a pretty strong shear twist. Several turns with insulating tape are wound and the connection of tinsel with a single-core wire by twisting is ready. Thanks to shear twisting technology, the connections do not need to be insulated individually. If you have a thermo-shrinkable or PVC tube of a suitable diameter, you can put on a piece of it instead of an insulating tape.

If you want to get a straight connection, then you need to turn the single-core wire 180 ° before insulating. Mechanical strength the twist will be greater. The connection of two cords with tinsel-type conductors to each other is carried out according to the above technology, only for wrapping a piece of copper wire with a diameter of about 0.3-0.5 mm is taken and at least 8 turns must be made.

The answer seems to be simple, but nevertheless, often connecting wires, electricians and people who do electrical work on their own violate the basic requirements for electrical contacts. What does this lead to? In the best case, to burn the wires at the junction, at worst to ignition and extensive fire. To prevent this from happening, further in the article we will consider the main methods of connecting wires when conducting electrical work.

Connection methods:
- twist;
-through the terminal;
-through the clamp;
-bolted connection;
-soldering;
- through the tips.

Twisting wire connection.
This is the fastest and easiest way to connect one or more wires and is therefore the most commonly used. If the wires are twisted correctly, then when used in a home network with a small load, they will last a long time without being reminded of themselves.
Frequent mistakes when connecting wires by twisting.
The most common mistake which installers admit is twisting the veins of different metals (copper with aluminum). With such a connection, a complex electrolysis process occurs in the twist, which leads to the destruction of the metal itself. It is covered with oxides and potholes. All this leads to poor contact at the junction, and subsequently heating. In the end, the conductors simply burn from each other. This is accompanied by the smell of burning insulation, crackling, and sometimes fire.
How to twist wires with different metals correctly.
Find a small piece of tinned wire

At the end, fold the excess onto this twist.

The copper is now in direct contact with the aluminum through the tinned wire. And this will prevent electrolysis from occurring on different conductors.
Connection via terminal.
The presence of terminals can also facilitate this work and ensure a quality connection. There are many types of terminals, but the principle is the same. The photo shows two types of terminals, which can often be seen in different devices.

For example, in fluorescent lamps, at the junction of the supply wires. Also these terminals are commercially available and can be 10 pcs. and more in length. Having bought such a block, you can simply cut the right amount elements with a knife. It is not difficult to connect conductors made of different metals in the terminal. First, you need to remove the insulation from the end of the wires by 3-4 mm so that the bare area does not greatly extend beyond the terminal.

We unscrew the screws until the free passage of the wires of the wires, and insert, clamp them.

Do not exert too much effort, otherwise the fragile thread will "break", which will require replacing the terminal. This connection is pretty reliable. With a current of up to 1.5 kW, it can freely cope with its task. It all depends on which terminal to use. Here the weakest is considered, using a more powerful one, the flow current can be increased. In addition to the option to connect the wires from different material, the terminals can be successfully used to extend the length. This can be useful in the case when the wire in the box is so short that it is not enough to make a twist. This is where the terminal will help. The same applies to the broken wire extending from the ceiling to the lamp. By the way, this is very frequent problem... Even if a little bit of the conductor is still sticking out of the ceiling plate, the clamp will successfully help to lengthen it.
Clamp connection. Sometimes at hand there may be such, or a similar clamp.

Then the problem with the connection can be solved with its help. How to do this is clear from the photograph.

After the screws are securely tightened, this entire exposed area must be insulated with PVC adhesive tape.
Bolted connection.
Bolts, nuts and washers are always at hand. Therefore, in the absence of clamps and terminals, they will also fit. By the way, on the bolts large sizes, make fairly high-quality connections of powerful cables of large cross-section, and this method is still successfully used in industrial enterprises.
So, you need:
-bolt of the required length;
-screw;
-three wide washers.

You need to bend along the movement of the thread. That is, so that when the nut is tightened, the loop does not open to the sides.
The washer between the two conductors will prevent them from touching, and will prevent the electrolysis effect that destroys metals.

Soldering.
The solder connection is considered to be of the highest quality, since the resistance at this point becomes minimal. Some of them solder the strands in the boxes themselves, thus improving the connection. But it can be done with copper. And aluminum doesn't solder very well. Yes, different acids and additives can be used, but they tend to break down the bond over time.
But with the help of rosin and tin, you can tin the copper conductor. And after that, calmly twist it with aluminum. The connection will also be pretty good.

Tips.
If you find these tips, it will be very good. This is one of the most reliable types of connection. We insert the wires into the terminals, and clamp them with pliers, and then press them with a hammer and a guide.

Lugs must be tinned, or an aluminum conductor, wrap with tinned wire before inserting into the lug hole. After that, the tips should be compressed with a bolt and nut, and everything should be insulated with tape.
Conclusion.
Of course, now there are more advanced methods and devices for connecting wires, but they need to be bought and mastered, which takes extra money and time. The good old methods described above will be used for a long time, and will also serve faithfully for a long time. So why pay more ?!

To date, a bunch of the most diverse ways to connect have been invented. But, for some reason, the way to "bite off, twist and rewind with electrical tape" is not inferior to its position.

But it also happens that it is fundamentally wrong.

The reason is that it is absolutely wrong to twist two wires made of different materials, for example, copper and aluminum, into a spiral. The fact is that when the aluminum wire is oxidized, galvanic vapor is released, which will eventually break the connection. And the more current passes through this connection, the sooner it collapses. And, if the load on the wires is not constant, then constant heating-cooling will only worsen the condition of the wiring.
This wiring connection can be dangerous. As sparks in the joint can cause a fire.

Fortunately, there is a sure way out of the situation.

For example, here's a thing called a polyethylene terminal block:

You can buy such an uncomplicated contraption in any hardware store... And if you pull out a brass sleeve from it, you can clearly see how the wiring is connected:

You need to shove the ends into it and tighten the screws:

When folded, that is, in normal form, it looks like this:

And by the way, each insulating segment can be disconnected from each other. So, at first glance everything is perfect and simple, but no. And here there were some drawbacks.

If you pinch the aluminum wire, then you need to make sure that it does not work out like this:

it illustrative example the fact that aluminum cannot be clamped, and if this has happened, then the terminals need to be changed once a year. Otherwise, the contact will heat up and this will lead to a fire.

Do not clamp stranded wires in the sleeve. You may not be lucky and something that you already know about will happen.

It is important to choose right size sleeves for the diameter of the wire, otherwise it may fall out or break if pinched.

When buying a terminal block, do not get fooled by the inscription on it. They are lying. It is better to divide the current into 2 or 3 sleeves.

And as practice says, it is better not to buy such terminals at all. And if used, then only to connect something small, a light bulb, for example.

The same goes for unnamed Chinese gizmos. Better overdoing than underdoing. Therefore, buy terminals from normal trusted manufacturers, such as: Tridonik, ABB, Legrand, Verit

Terminal Blocks TB Series

Made of hard black plastic, with a lid. This one is already much better than the previous one.

Inside consists of two screws and a plate:

Here you need to wrap it around the screw and press it with a plate:

A good thing, because here the wires are clamped by an iron plate, and not by the screw itself, which is undoubtedly a big plus.

.
The surface is such that it does not increase the clamping surface by much, which means that you can clamp both multi-core and single-core ones. But, nevertheless, aluminum should be checked from time to time. The bad thing about these terminals is that they don't share. And less than 6 pieces are unlikely to be found.

Self-clamping terminals (WAGO, REXANT 773 series)

They look like this:

Extremely comfortable clamps. What you need is so simple to strip the wire and push it all the way:

Inside that terminal there is such a thing, where the pressure plate is indicated by a blue arrow, and a small tinned copper busbar is indicated by an orange one:

Here's what happens when a wire is pushed into it:

That is, the wire is pressed tightly by the plate to the tire and holds it so constantly, does not allow it to fall out.

Even an aluminum wire can be pushed into this terminal without fear.

These are exactly the same, but transparent terminals:

Their plus is that through the illuminated walls you can see how deeply the wires are pushed. This terminal is suitable for 4KW. However, there is one big BUT. This means that only original WAGO terminals have such capabilities. For the rest, the maximum current is limited to a lower value.

WAGO 222 Series Terminals

Such terminals will be indispensable if there are wires of different diameters and from different materials.

These terminals have levers:

When the lever is raised, then you need to insert the wires and fix by lowering the lever:

You can replace the wire by lifting the lever and pulling it out. Smart thing, conducts current up to 32A.