How to choose and correctly lay a metal profile for a roof - everything you need to know about this material. Roof from a metal profile: we fasten it correctly Preparing a roof for a metal profile

Inventing the method of profiling a metal sheet back in 1820, the English engineer Henry Palmer could hardly have imagined how popular corrugated iron would become after 200 years. Today's variety of products called corrugated board and its areas of application in large and small construction are impressive. It's hard to imagine where they don't use metallic profile- from fences to coverings, but, nevertheless, the traditional and most common application is the construction of a roof. In the article we will consider a simple operation for using a metal profile for a roof.

Advantages

The metal profile is made from steel sheets, the surface of which is galvanized and additionally treated with special polymers. The required rigidity of the workpieces can be achieved due to the profile of the appropriate height and configuration, which is formed after their rolling.

Profiled sheeting is much more reliable in terms of stiffness characteristics than similar roofing materials, and is able to resist significant wind and snow loads. The presence of additional stiffeners at a given height of the profile pattern provides it with indisputable advantages when operating on slopes with a reduced angle of inclination of the roof plane.

The technique of laying a profiled sheet on the roof of a building is not particularly difficult. The only requirement is knowledge of the basic techniques and some subtleties of working with this material.

For the arrangement of a roof from a metal profile, it is necessary to have an idea about the installation specifics of the metal coating, how to fix it, depending on the type and configuration of the covered slopes.

Installation of corrugated board requires compliance with certain laying patterns, the main of which will be discussed below.

Laying methods

A crate is being built on the roof of the building, which plays the role of a bearing base for the flooring. Further actions are performed in the following order:

• to align the corrugated board along the edge of the cut, a cord is pulled along the eaves;
• sheets are laid in the direction from the ridge to the bottom of the crate (overhang), the screwing points of the screws should fall on every second wave of the profile. In the area of ​​the end cut, the profile is fastened along the recess of the profile with fixation in each of the horizontal bars;
• the middle of the blanks is attached to the formwork bars with the help of self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern. For the formation of a reliable fastening for each square. meter of the area to be closed should account for at least 4-5 screws.

Installation of covering for roofs with elongated slopes is carried out by building up sheets laid with an overlap of about 20 cm. They are fixed on the crate with simultaneous fastening of overlapping waves.

Multi-row laying of decking from a profiled sheet is carried out by two different ways, each of which is used in certain conditions:

• Block method - something like is made from four sheets of corrugated board finished block taken as the main element roof structure. Nearby, with an overlap, the same prepared blocks are fixed, up to covering the entire roof . This method is usually used for arranging a roof equipped with a drain (drainage) groove.
• The second method consists in composing blocks of 3 sheets, stacked according to the “two in a row plus one on top” scheme, followed by building them up in a checkerboard pattern (laying and fastening adjacent waves “overlapped”). This method is suitable for slopes that are not equipped with a gutter, since the first one is completely covered by subsequent rows.

Note! The method of installation of the metal profile coating also depends on the angle of the roof relative to the horizon.

With an inclination of less than 14 degrees, laying with an overlap should not be less than 20 cm. With an increase in the angle to 16-28 degrees, it can be reduced to 15-18 cm.

If the slope exceeds 30 degrees, the overlap is allowed no more than 10-15 cm. If the roof is almost flat (with an angle of less than 12 degrees), you need to worry about additional protection of the horizontal and vertical joints of the corrugated board with silicone sealant.

Mounting method

Mounting on a pre-prepared crate of wooden beams is the most common way of laying a metal profile. Point fixation with this installation is carried out special self-tapping screws for the roof. These screws have a drill point at the end for free screwing into the decking material. Self-tapping screws are equipped with a soft polymer gasket that protects the hole formed when screwing in from rain and snow.

Note! For the roof, self-tapping screws no longer than 35-50 mm are usually used; for the ridge, fasteners with a length of at least 80 mm are required.

Profile metal is a rather slippery material, so use special shoes and other precautions associated with high-altitude installation work.

Video

The work of creating a frame from a metal profile for drywall is perceived by many as a very simple event that does not require certain rules to be followed. Because of this, situations are obtained in which the surface created from the GKL plates turns out to be with numerous shortcomings, to eliminate which a lot of effort and financial costs have to be applied.

Of course, the work itself is not that difficult. Literally everyone can cope, but there are some nuances that must be taken into account. And also correctly carry out the installation steps.

There are two main materials for the construction of the crate - a wooden beam and a metal profile. It is the second type of material that is most preferred.

The metal profile is such due to certain characteristics:

• For the most part (with proper storage and transportation) - has no drawbacks (curvature). But, if you choose a bar, you will have to sort out a lot of material.
• Metal elements can be used in almost any room, and do not pay attention to temperature fluctuations. This means that the surface will not be deformed.
• Galvanized parts can last a very long time. Therefore, they can be used even in rooms with a lot of moisture. Also, they are not affected by fungi and rot.
• For fastening the profile there are various elements, which allow you to create a reliable and strong design.

Material selection

It is worth paying attention to the choice necessary materials, especially when choosing the details of the crate. There are the following types of profile that allow you to create a frame for plasterboard walls:

1. Guide (PN). This element is designed to create a structure that will serve to secure rack profile. It is from the fixing of this type of profile that it will depend on how the surface will look in the future.
2. Rack (PS). It is used to create crates or other partitions. It can be given various curvilinear options.

Details for ceiling structures: ceiling profile (PP), ceiling guide profile (PNP).

You should also consider using the following additional elements:

• Corner profile (PU). Maybe external and internal.
• Arched profile (PA). Used to create arches.
• Suspension (U-shaped). It is used for fastening the structure to walls and ceilings.
• Connector ("Crab"). It is very convenient for fastening together perpendicular parts.
• Extension. Connects different segments of the profile.
• Dowel and self-tapping screws (for metal).

It is at this stage that many people make a very important mistake. It lies in the fact that they acquire a non-specialized profile. Namely, they confuse ceiling elements with wall elements.

Required tool

Naturally, the mount metal frame under drywall is simply impossible without the use of special tools. But do not worry, every home master will always have everything you need.

What will be required:

1. Jigsaw with metal files or scissors for cutting galvanized steel.
   

   Attention! It is immediately worth noting that you can not use the grinder. The reason is pretty simple. The torque of such a tool is very high, and the galvanized profile is quite thin. Because of this, there is a rapid heating of the cut material and its deformation. And also the destruction of the protective layer and the appearance of rust will follow.

2. Plumb and level (or more modern electronic devices). Only the use of these devices allows you to create an even frame from a metal profile.
3. Ruler, tape measure and pencil (marker).
4. Drills or puncher to create holes in the walls. Their choice depends on the surface material. And also do not forget about drills or drills.
5. Screwdriver set, a better screwdriver. With the necessary skills, you can also use a drill (setting the desired power).

Installation work

Everything that needs to be prepared, the tool is waiting in the wings. It seems that work can already begin. After all, the sooner you start, the sooner it will end, but you should not rush. First you need to decide what activities will be carried out. The installation of the frame has features for different types of work.

Walls

In principle, working with walls is considered the easiest. It is with her that it is best to start, if this does not contradict the stages of repair work.

Advice! To avoid unpleasant (rattling) noise that may occur after installation metal crate- a sealing tape is glued between the surface and the guides.

Getting Started:

Suspensions have a feature to go beyond the profile. That is, protruding "ears" are formed. They need to be bent. This should be done inward so as not to interfere with the installation of GCR boards.

If it is required to give the frame for drywall additional rigidity, then horizontal screeds are used for this. They are easy to make from the profile itself, which is cut into right size(with a small margin). Pay attention to their fastening.

They often do this:

1. Scissors for metal cut the ends of the profile along the ribs.
2. The ribs are bent. Through them, the screeds are screwed to the racks. The central section - remains without a self-tapping screw, otherwise a hillock will turn out.

Partitions

These structures are created to separate the premises, as well as to completely separate one from the other. In principle, the scheme of work is similar to the one presented above, but there are some technical features.

Features of creating door and window openings

A frame made of a metal profile for drywall often needs to create various openings in it. Doors are handled as follows:

• going to door frame. In which, previously, the door leaf is hung. To set the necessary gaps (after all, the box is not fixed) - insert wedges from fiberboard or hardboard.
• Now they begin to expose racks that are adjacent to the doorway. They are placed vertically and reinforced wooden beam. Inflict mounting foam and tighten the box with self-tapping screws.

On a note! The described method is quite laborious, it is more suitable for cases where the doorway was not provided in advance. Therefore, it is better to spend time on preliminary calculations and markup, as well as determine the size door leaf. Then you can immediately create a doorway (with the necessary margin) and quickly install a door into it.

When creating a light window, there are such features:

1. It is necessary to install two horizontal jumpers (top and bottom).
2. Vertical racks are best done with wooden mortgages.

Measures to strengthen the frame and increase sound insulation

It should be noted that a simple crate does not have sufficient rigidity. Therefore, if necessary, then you need to give it reinforcement. This is usually necessary in rooms where furniture will be placed on the walls.

The easiest ways:

• Instead of SP and NP, 50 mm each, they take 75 or 100 mm.
• Reduce the step between the racks.
• Vertical elements are installed in pairs.
• Mortgages in the form of a wooden bar are used.

On a note! If possible, then a completely different option is used. Namely - drywall on the frame is laid in two layers. In this case, overlap the seams of the first layer.

Also pay attention to soundproofing. The fact is that the hollow frame gives a significant sound effect.

1. Placed in the frame mineral wool. Therefore, they are immediately determined with a step of vertical racks and jumpers.
2. When creating partitions, a double-sided frame is made. Then each GKL slab is attached to its side of the crate.

Any work requires care, even if it seems that making a frame for drywall is very simple.

It's no secret to anyone that suburban construction- a cheap thing. That is why developers are trying to find ways to reduce the cost of this process. In today's article, we will talk about how to fix corrugated board on the roof without resorting to the help of specialists. As it turns out, this procedure is not so complicated, so even amateurs can qualitatively cover their house with a metal profile roof.

Characteristics of corrugated board

Decking is roofing and wall profiles with different corrugation depths - from 10 to 57 mm. Most profiles of both domestic and foreign production have a trapezoidal shape.

The main areas of application of the metal profile:

• roofing installation;
• organization of ventilated facades;
• construction of fences and light buildings.

Metal profiles of the following two classes are available on the market:

• from galvanized steel;
• made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating 50 microns thick.

The main advantages of corrugated board include the following:

Before direct installation of the corrugated board, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the photo or video instructions on how to fix the corrugated board to the roof. Also, before fasteners, it is recommended to review the instructions that come with the material again. And if you were not given a similar document when buying corrugated board in the store, then do not hesitate to ask the seller about it, since each individual manufacturer may have its own roofing features.

except important information regarding the material itself, the instructions describe step by step how to fix the corrugated board on the roof. Therefore, laying the material is so simple, you just need to show a little care.

From the instructions, you can also get information about which tools are allowed to work when installing the roof, and which are strictly prohibited.

To facilitate the process of lifting sheets, it is necessary to build wooden logs on which the sheets will rise to the roof. At this stage, you should be especially careful, as careless behavior with the material can cause mechanical damage and surface unevenness.

Roof slope

Ventilation

As mentioned above, before laying corrugated board on the roof, it is necessary to organize thermal and waterproofing. Equally important is ventilation.

There are two types of it:

• Single-circuit. Waterproofing is laid directly on the insulation layer. Ventilation is organized in the space between the roofing material and waterproofing;
• Dual circuit. In addition, a ventilated space between the waterproofing film and the insulation is added to the ventilated space between the roof and the waterproofing.

In order for the air flow to easily rise from the eaves to the ridge of the roof, it is necessary to make ventilation holes that are located as high as possible - ideally on the ceiling of the ridge. At the ends of the house, it is recommended to arrange special grilles for ventilation. In places where air circulates poorly, it is necessary to install additional ventilation ducts.

overlap

How to fix the metal profile? Naturally with a twist. This is very important point throughout the procedure. The tightness of the future roof depends on the correct execution of all joints and overlaps.

It is recommended to make a side overlap in a whole wave (often specialists perform an overlap in only half a wave). The flatter the roof, the larger the overlap should be. This is due to the fact that with a smaller slope angle, water lingers on the surface longer, and therefore the probability of its seepage under the metal increases significantly. In addition to organizing large overlaps, it is recommended to seal the joints. This will eliminate the leakage and ingress of snow into the free spaces between the sheets of the metal profile.

The basic rules for how the corrugated board is attached to the roof:

• The width of the overlap with a roof slope of 10 degrees should not be less than 10 cm.
• With a slope of less than 10 degrees, the overlap is made even larger - within 20-25 cm.
• On sloping roofs, sealing tape or mastic must be used when forming joints and overlaps.
• The place to be built up is fixed to the crate with special screws at the point where the wave falls, taking into account.
• Mount the corrugated board start from the end.
• If the sheets of corrugated board have a capillary groove, then each next sheet of material is laid so that the grooves are connected.
• The first sheets are fixed with one self-tapping screw on the roof ridge.
• After aligning the sheets along the cornice, they are fixed with self-tapping screws (see: "").

Fastening

Now let's talk about how to mount. For this, special screws are used. Their advantage is that the gasket eventually vulcanizes the resulting hole in the material. Also, the screws themselves are matched to the color of the roof, which makes the joints almost invisible. Special screws provide complete waterproofness of the roof, reliability and durability of the connections.

At the same time, it is recommended to buy self-tapping screws from the same seller from whom you purchased the corrugated board. On average, per 1 sq.m. roof area consumes 5-8 screws. Therefore, you can calculate in advance the required amount of this consumable.

In the crest and cornice, one screw is screwed through one wave, in the middle of the metal profile sheet, the screws are screwed into each board of the crate. The correctness of screwing screws can be determined with the naked eye. If about 1 mm of rubber seal protrudes from under the metal washer, this means that the screw is retracted correctly. If rubber compressor protrudes much stronger, then most likely you have damaged the seal, and this will lead to leakage in this place in the future (read: "

A wide variety of materials can be used to protect the roof today. One of the most popular, of course, is a metal profile (corrugated board). It is made by cold rolling from steels of high grades. If you wish, you can make a roof from a metal profile with your own hands, since one of undoubted merits This material is easy to install. Used corrugated board can be for roofs of any size and configuration. Today, such roofs can be seen everywhere.

What is corrugated board

A profiled sheet is a plate of rather thin metal (from 0.5 to 1 mm) coated with a polymer layer. Its surface is made in the form of waves. The dimensions of the metal profile for the roof can be very different. When choosing a type of material, first of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the wave height and the thickness of the metal used to make it.

The main advantages of corrugated board

The main advantages of the metal profile, in addition to the ease of installation of sheets, include:

Disadvantages of a metal profile

The disadvantages of this material include primarily noise. However, when using a sufficiently thick heat-insulating layer, which in this case can be considered as noise-insulating, the consequences of such a disadvantage can be reduced to almost zero.

If the outer decorative layer is damaged, corrosion can develop on the sheets. Some disadvantage can also be considered that, when arranging a roof from a metal profile, you need to be very careful to ensure that the joints between the elements are sealed as much as possible. Otherwise finished roof will leak.

Varieties of material

If we talk about the scope, then there are three types of metal profiles:

1. Grade "C" material. Is used for finishing walls.
2. Profiled sheet brand "N". It has the highest strength characteristics and can be used for roofing.
3. Material brand "NS". It can be used for fences, wall cladding, as well as roof protection.

Actually the professional flooring is the cheapest kind of a metal profile. In addition to it, there is also a metal tile - very aesthetic and practical material. Roofs covered with it look just great. Thus, corrugated board and metal tiles are the main types of metal profiles for roofing.

The main stages of work when installing this type of roof

Installation of a roof from a metal profile is carried out in several stages:

• installation of vapor barrier;
• installation thermal insulation material, while mineral wool is most often used;
• installation of a waterproofing layer;
• crate device;
• installation of a drainage system;
• installation of metal profile sheets;
• sheathing of rafters from the side of the attic.

Steam, hydro and thermal insulation in this case is arranged in the same way as for any other roofing material. The crate is stuffed taking into account the metal profile.

Installation of a drainage system

Before starting the installation of a metal profile roof, it is advisable to arrange drainage system. At the first stage, the gutter holders are fixed to the crate. The edge of the latter should eventually be located about 3 cm below the edge of the future roof. Otherwise, deformations are possible when snow melts in winter. After the holders are installed, a gutter is inserted into them. Next, a cornice strip is attached to the crate. Its installation is carried out so that the edge of the gutter is blocked. Also, on top of the cornice strip, you will need to bring the edge of the waterproofing film.

Calculation of a roof from a metal profile

Do-it-yourself metal profile roofing will be arranged with cost savings if they are made necessary calculations. This plan primarily takes into account:

1. The number of elements in the horizontal row. To do this, pre-measure the length of the roof slope. Of course, respectively, in the horizontal direction. The resulting figure is divided by the width of the sheet. The length of the overlap between the elements is also taken into account.
2. To calculate the length of the sheets and the number of rows, you need to add the length of the overlap, as well as the length of the overhang of the eaves, to the length of the slope (vertically).

In order to find out how many self-tapping screws you need, you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future roof and multiply the resulting figure by 6.

Preparation of tools and materials

Before proceeding with the installation of the roof, it is necessary to prepare the tools. On hand should be:

• building level and plumb;
• metal scissors or a jigsaw, necessary for cutting sheets;
• electric drill;
• pencil and square;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws.

The corrugated board itself must be transported and lifted to the roof with maximum accuracy. Otherwise, the protective polymer layer may be damaged.

Installing sheets on slopes

Now let's see how the roof is actually arranged from a metal profile with our own hands. Installation of sheets start from the bottom. They are attached to the crate with self-tapping screws at the bottom of the wave. This will ensure the reliability of the installation. In this case, the overlap must be carried out for at least one wave. There should be at least 6-7 self-tapping screws per 1m 2 of the roof. The horizontal overlap (between rows) should be about 20 cm.

Gable cladding

When calculating the material necessary for facing the pediment, it is taken into account exactly how it will be laid. It is considered the most economical horizontal way installation. In addition, in this case, the house will look more aesthetically pleasing. When calculating, it is worth considering that about 10-15% of the material is spent on cutting.

For the pediment, wall corrugated board of brand “C” is quite suitable. You can also use the material "H" and "HC". After performing heat and waterproofing, a frame is mounted from them. They will first need to be fixed. The profiled sheet is cut using a hacksaw or a jigsaw.

When arranging a roof from a metal profile, you need to be extremely careful in terms of the possibility of damage to the polymer coating. Otherwise, the construction service lines will be significantly reduced, since the elements will begin to rust over time. Therefore, it is not recommended to use a grinder for cutting sheets. To fasten the cut profiled sheet to the frame, you should start from the bottom corner. All elements are overlapped.

Mounting the skate

The device of a roof from a metal profile also includes the installation of a ridge. The junction of the slopes at the top is closed with a ready-made element, which can be purchased simultaneously with the purchase of sheets. The skate is made from the same material as the main elements. It is needed to prevent water from getting under the sheets. Laying in this case should be started from the side opposite to the direction of the prevailing winds in this particular area. Ridge elements are mounted with an overlap of 15-20 cm into the ridge in increments of 20-30 cm. Self-tapping screws are also used for fastening.

In the event that the angle of inclination of the roof slope is small, a special sealant should be placed under the ridge elements, which can also be purchased from hardware store. There should be a small ventilation gap between it and the ridge.

Valley installation

When mounting a roof from a metal profile, it is necessary, among other things, to correctly install the valleys. In this case, good sealing is very important. A valley is a gutter that enters the internal inclined intersections of a slope. It is mounted on solid crate arranged on both sides.

Horizontally, the elements are connected with an overlap of 10-15 cm. without fail treated with sealant. In order for the valley strip to better adjoin the roof, a special self-expanding seal should be used.

On the currently it seems more than appropriate to use such a roof to protect modern material like a metal profile. Roof installation in this case can be performed in short time and without the involvement of professionals. For little money, the owners of the house will receive reliable protection his inner space from all adverse environmental factors.

“How to properly cover the roof with corrugated board and is it possible to do it yourself?” - these questions are asked by every homeowner who decides to use a corrugated sheet as a roof covering for his house or outbuildings. profiled sheet as roofing material is a leader not only in the price-quality ratio, but also in ease of installation. If you act step by step and strictly follow the simple technology, then covering the roof with corrugated board will not cause any particular difficulties.

For the roof, a metal profile of the H57 or HC35 brand is chosen. H57 corrugated board with an additional stiffener, the so-called load-bearing one, is ideal as a roofing material, but a little expensive. Usually they use the universal HC35, it is suitable in terms of quality and is more affordable in terms of cost. You can choose a regular galvanized sheet, or you can use polymer coated, here it all depends on the wishes and the wallet. Before covering the roof with corrugated board, you need to decide on the number of sheets of material, additional elements. If the roof is simple enough, then you can do the calculation yourself. The slopes of the roof are rectangles, isosceles trapezoids or triangles, that is, the length of the slope is the value from the ridge to the base, add 5 cm and get the length of the metal profile sheet.
When roofing with corrugated board, it is desirable that the slope be covered in length with one sheet, since the fewer overlaps, the safer roof, but if you still have to cover in several rows, then you still need to add 20 cm for each overlap. Consequently:

• PROF SHEETS LENGTH \u003d Slope LENGTH + 5 cm, if the roof will be covered in one sheet.
• LENGTH OF THE PROF SHEETS \u003d LENGTH of the slope + 5 cm + 20 cm (for each row with an overlap), if the roof will be covered in several horizontal rows.

standard stage. Warming and vapor barrier

Hydrobarrier

Counter-lattice and crate

Laying profiled sheets

1. The lowest row (along the eaves) and the uppermost row (along the ridge) are fastened with self-tapping screws into each wave deflection.
2. The middle of the slope is fixed through the wave in a checkerboard pattern.
3. Self-tapping screws are screwed in clearly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, distortions are unacceptable.
4. The longitudinal step for fastening the sheet is 1 m.
5. Vertical overlaps between adjacent sheets are 1 wave (for flat roof 2 waves).
6. The top row lies on the bottom row with an overlap of 20 cm.
7. The horizontal overlap line is fastened with self-tapping screws into each lower wave.
8. Profiled sheets along the edges of the roof are attached to each plank of the crate.
9. Cutting profiled sheets is done either with an electric jigsaw or electric shears (not a grinder!).
10. You should move along the roof along the lower wave in soft shoes.

Using galvanizing for "difficult" moments