Installation of conventional drywall on a wooden frame. Drywall on a wooden frame: arguments and counter-arguments, limitations and installation tips Wooden frame for drywall by hand

For working with drywall use various materials. The most common method is the installation of profile metal frames, however, wooden structures can also be found quite often.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, which is why many people prefer it. It is worth saying that wood is susceptible to climatic influences, biological corrosion and is a fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.

Wood preparation

They make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. Timber of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of cladding.

Main physical characteristics:

Humidity from 12 to 18%.
For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8–3 m, timber with a section of 60×50 mm is used for risers and 60×40 mm for sheathing.
For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8–4.2 m, timber with a cross section of 60 × 50 mm is suitable for risers and sheathing, and depending on the height, different sheet thicknesses are used: for a height of 2.8–3 m - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3–3.6 m - 2×14 mm, 3.6–3.9 m - 2×16 mm, 3.9–4.2 m - 2×18 mm.
The step between risers in all cases should not exceed 60 cm.
Fire retardant treatment must correspond to the first group fire safety.
Connections using nails, tenons and self-tapping screws are allowed, with tenons being the most preferred, as they create a rigid and durable connection.
The thickness of mineral wool sound insulation should be from 50 to 60 mm.
The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm.
The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie for several days in the room where it is intended to be installed in order to acclimatize.

Use high-quality lumber that meets moisture and fire safety requirements. Make sure you have certificates about the treatment of the material with fire retardants and passing the relevant examinations.

Except fire treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

Fungal and mold microorganisms. Wood can serve as a feeding medium for the mycelium of a number of molds, and the wood becomes unusable and destroyed.
Biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is susceptible to necrobiosis and decay. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
Carpenter insects. There are many known insects that feed on wood and render it unusable.
Rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.

Pests can ruin wood in a short time

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

This is powder light gray, soluble in hot water. The limit is 3.5–4%.

Sodium fluoride penetrates well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not provoke metal corrosion, has no odor and is not toxic to humans. Quite a strong antiseptic.

Sodium fluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it into pure sodium fluoride.

The use of oily antiseptics in residential premises is unacceptable:

creosote;
coal;
shale;
anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the house.

Installation of a wooden frame under plasterboard

Tracing the lines connecting the partition to the walls

To draw lines, use the rule

To do this, measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and step back the width of the gypsum board sheet from it.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Noting desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to move it plumb down the wall. To do this, hammer a nail into a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.

This can be done by constructing an “Egyptian triangle” - a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where 3 and 4 correspond to the legs, and 5 is the hypotenuse. In this case, we put one leg along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of three.
From the bottom point we build an arc of a circle in the direction perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of four.
From the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build a circular arc with a radius that is a multiple of five so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
By connecting the intersection point of these arcs with the original lower point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.

We connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth and last line. Thus, we must draw a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can use a trick - attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.

Frame installation

As can be seen in the photo, the frame consists of a frame, vertical and horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.

To do this, fasten the bars along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or tenons to ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.

If the building is made of stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use direct hangers or brackets.

We attach solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located against the wall, the bottom beam will be solid and will lie on one side of the opening.

So, we attach all the bars and use an impact drill with a concrete drill to drill holes in the walls and ceiling.

Doorway

The doorway is formed by double risers

Instructions for installing a doorway with your own hands:

To do this, we install two risers on either side of it. The opening width should be 4–5 cm wider door frame.
We install risers and strengthen them with additional bars.
At the height of the door frame plus 2-3 cm, we install a horizontal jumper, which we connect with two vertical bars to the ceiling rail.
Vertical beams give the structure additional rigidity and are needed for joining sheets of drywall.

Racks

To determine the location of the jumper, we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be located at the doorway, and at the place of its edge we fix the jumper so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

Advice!
To connect beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal plates intended for assembling rafter systems.
These mounts are reliable and designed to withstand significant loads.

Every detail in mandatory We check the level, the racks must be strictly vertical, the jumpers must be horizontal.

Try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.

The work of covering the frame with gypsum board sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

It should be noted that the price of the profile is lower than that of quality lumber, and dealing with poor quality is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.

Tool

You will need:

hammer;
wood hacksaw;
screwdriver;
impact drill with concrete drill;
construction knife;
plumb line;
level;
pencil;
roulette;
square;
crowbar;
screwdriver;
coated thread;
screws;
dowels;
brackets.

If you don't have impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at a construction supermarket.

Also do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation. You can use thick mats on a mesh so as not to lay the wool in two layers.

Conclusion

Now you know how to assemble a wooden frame for gypsum boards. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website provides detailed photo and video instructions in which you will find necessary information on this issue. Good luck!

To level or redevelop living space, partitions made of gypsum plasterboard or plasterboard are used. GCRs benefit from brick and block partitions in that they are lightweight, the installation of such structures is quick and simple, and after completion of the work there is little dirt and dust left. GKL and GVL are economical, have good heat and sound insulation.

In addition to standard gypsum plasterboard, there are the following types of material:

moisture resistant;
fire resistant;

Moisture resistant used in places with high humidity, fire-resistant is used for other premises (kitchen, office premises).

GKL is excellent for finishing living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the microclimate of the room naturally.

Moisture-resistant drywall

GVL is used for durable structures. This gypsum fiber sheets, which are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from building gypsum with additives. GVL is an environmentally friendly material for dry construction; it does not have a cardboard shell, like plasterboard. But there are the following disadvantages of using GVL:

GVL is heavier than gypsum plasterboard;
costs more.

Characteristics of a wooden frame

GCR fastening to a wooden frame is often used.

A wooden frame is cheaper than a metal frame and is made from wooden planks and bars, wood is usually used coniferous species. Bars with a cross-section of 40*40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where massive objects (mirror or cabinet) will be located on the wall.

Material requirements:

Wood moisture content ranges from 12 to 18%;
Fire treatment must comply with the first fire safety group;
The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.

Before use, wooden slats are processed protective equipment from fire and pests, are examined for the presence of knots and irregularities.

Attaching the base

Screwing parts of drywall onto wooden slats should be carried out in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal levels, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.

Tools for creating a design:

hammer;
perforator;
nails;
building level;
self-tapping screws;
mounting dowels;
metal corners.

If the design needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.

Base fastening technology

Stages of work:

First, mark the partition on the ceiling using a level, then attach the wooden frame;
The strapping bars are secured starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, and after that comes the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coverings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws will do). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then fastening is done with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
Having secured the bars to the ceiling, mark them on the floor (at least three marks) and continue fastening the frame.
After checking the correspondence of the fastenings relative to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical bars. The distance between them is maintained at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these beams well, since the main load will fall on them.
After installing the verticals, the racks are secured to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides with 3-4 holes.

Mounting gypsum boards on the base

Begin plating from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the beams every 25-30 centimeters.

Facing

When sheathing with material on only one side, insulation is laid and electrical wiring is laid before installing the top layer.

During installation of the other side, insulation is laid as necessary. It is better to do without pulling cables; if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of posts and horizontal lintels.

Tips for beginners:

When installing the second side of the wall, move the sheet one step so that the structure is strong;
To avoid problems during fastening, make sure that the gypsum board joints fall exactly in the middle of the vertical posts.

Isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally insulating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing complicated about this, just lay and secure the material.

Structural insulation

Suitable for this mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene. The rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.

Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.

Read also: Arrangement of an apartment building.

Working with uneven surfaces

If suddenly the base is uneven, you should identify the unevenness using a beam. For this:

Lay the timber along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
Vertically lean the rack-mounted timber beam, mark at regular intervals the location of the end behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to install the frame evenly so that the entire structure comes out even.

If you have difficulties with plasterboard sheathing, this video will help:

Advantages of using gypsum plasterboard

This material has a number of advantages compared to other raw materials:

low cost and assembly costs;
little weight;
quick installation;
better sound and heat insulation;
Can be used even in freezing rooms;
leveling walls;
installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
After installation, little debris and dust remains.

If everything is done correctly, in quality finishing touch all that remains is to execute decorative finishing walls. And plasterboard structures will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.

In contact with

To work with plasterboard sheets, you often need to make a frame. It is mainly made from, but sometimes you can use environmentally friendly material - wood. Drywall is mounted on a wooden frame if there is 100% confidence that the wood will not be deformed from moisture and wooden blocks will be treated for pests.

For installation of drywall, a frame made of wood and metal profiles is used.

Wood tends to change its size with sudden changes in temperature and high air humidity. When covering the frame with plasterboard, during its finishing, the wooden frame will breathe air that penetrates into the section between the wall and the plasterboard. Therefore, first of all, a wooden frame under plasterboard is mounted in a room where the walls are dry and there is no moisture. The use of wood saves space, this has always been an important point. Every person wants to leave room space.

Very often a wooden frame is installed in private wooden houses and in houses made of logs. If wood is treated correctly, it will last a long time.

There is a method for attaching drywall to wooden ceiling(wall) without a frame. In this case, a number of facts should be taken into account:

Wood quality.
Room humidity.
Wood processing.

Wood “breathes”, so there is a high probability that drywall will deform or burst. Therefore, before attaching to wooden base ceiling, you should think carefully about this step.

For greater confidence in guaranteeing the wooden frame, the timber is treated with drying oil. In this case, it does not swell when exposed to moisture and does not shrink when exposed to dry and hot air.

In dry rooms it is possible to create a partition based on a wooden frame covered with plasterboard.

Necessary tools and materials for work

To work with wooden beams, you need tools and materials, without which it is impossible to make a wooden frame with your own hands:

An ordinary hammer.
A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
Construction knife and set of blades.
Drill if the walls are made of concrete or brick.
Saw.
Meter or tape measure.
Ruler and pencil.
Laser level or regular.
Dowels, wood screws and regular screws.

Drying oil or other antiseptic solution for treating wood.
Primer, preferably with additives.
Insulation material – polystyrene foam, mineral wool.
Putty, reinforced tape.
Roller, brush.
Set of spatulas.

Selection and preparation of wood for the frame

In order to make a frame from a wooden beam with your own hands, you need to choose the type of wood. Not every tree will fit this design. The best option is a needle.

Surface preparation

When starting to install a frame made of wooden blocks, you should prepare the surface. For this you will need:

Cleaning the wall from old finish

Very important point is to prepare the surface and identify wet spots. The wall must be dry and level.

Marking

Markings are applied to the prepared dry wall and a drawing is made for the future structure:

you should measure the length and height of the wall on which the structure will be made;
using these numbers, the perimeter of the room is calculated (the length must be multiplied by the height);
all received numbers are transferred to a sheet of paper. First, horizontal and vertical lines are drawn on paper and on the wall along which the bars for the frame under the drywall will be laid;
The attachment points should be noted.

With the help of the drawing and markings applied, the frame will be smooth and rigid (without movements or vibrations).

Assembling a wooden frame

Before you start attaching wooden beams with your own hands, for the future frame you need to use plumb lines to tap out points on the ceiling and floor that will form a clearly horizontal surface. Now:

Attaching drywall to the finished frame

The next step is to install the drywall on the wooden frame. Sheathing begins with whole sheets. The drywall is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The fastening pitch is 30 cm.

The horizontal joints of the sheets should be staggered, that is, one sheet is flat, the second is cut by 20 cm and when attached it will be lower, the cut gypsum board should be attached at the very top. Open area should be sealed with drywall cut to size. edge plasterboard sheet should be exactly on the wooden beam.

Finishing

After the gypsum board sheathing step wooden structure, the next step is finishing the gypsum board. First you need to process and seal the seams. If a chamfer was not made when sheathing with plasterboard, then grooves about 0.5–0.8 mm deep should be cut with a construction knife at the joints of the sheets. These grooves should be cleared of excess cardboard and treated with primer. For such suitable for work brush. The primer must be completely dry before sealing with reinforced tape and putty can begin.

The putty should be applied in a thin layer, covering not only the seam with the tape, but also the fastening points. After the putty has dried, using sandpaper All excess pebbles and stripes are removed. The sealed seams should be in the same plane with the entire surface (do not protrude).

After the putty has dried, the entire drywall surface should be treated with a primer mixture. This will improve the adhesion of the putty and prevent moisture from penetrating into the plasterboard.

After the surface has been puttyed and completely dry, the entire surface should be sanded using sandpaper.

Now plasterboard wall Based on a wooden frame, it is completely ready for further decoration.

Wall cladding with plasterboard involves the installation of wooden beams. Metal lathing is predominantly used; it is more durable and more practical.

In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions, it is permissible to use wooden blocks with a humidity of 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and fire-retardant compounds, to construct the frame. In places with high humidity, as well as where increased fire resistance of structures is required, only a metal frame is used.

What kind of timber is needed

For the construction of wooden frames, choose timber with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls). Basic requirements for the material: humidity - no more than 12%, absence of cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.

What kind of fasteners and connection methods are needed?

The connection of frame parts, their fastening to the wall and ceiling is carried out dowel-nails. IN concrete surfaces The holes are first made using a hammer drill with a drill whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

TO additional elements fasteners can be attributed metal corners. They connect vertical posts with horizontal ones. The guide wooden beams are fastened in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest posts).

Metal plate is used for both walls and ceilings

The connection of wooden frame elements to each other is carried out self-tapping screws at an angle or with metal perforated corners. The installation of the beams on the wall is done with an indentation from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles, or without an indentation, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical racks are attached directly to the wall. If it is crooked, it is leveled using special compounds or by placing wooden spacers in the right places.

Requirements for materials and rules of work

The code of practice for design and construction contains the basic requirements that must be met to create durable frame and subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main ones:

All products and materials must have a hygienic certificate and fire certificates;
In the space between the frame and the rough base, where operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat, sound, and fire insulating material;
Water absorption of waterproof and water-fire-resistant plasterboard sheets should be no more than 10%;
GKLVO sheets (moisture- and fire-resistant) are used in rooms with air humidity not exceeding 90% and temperatures not exceeding 30C. When using them, waterproof primers, putties, and paints are used to treat the surface;
To fasten gypsum board sheets with a thickness of no more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, with a thickness of up to 24 mm - TN45;
When placing sheets longitudinally, the step of their fastening is no more than 60 cm, when placing sheets transversely - no more than 1.25 m;
To improve the soundproofing properties of the structure, a sealing tape is laid between the guide beams, ceiling and floor;
The sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 25 cm, (spaced apart) with a distance from the edges of 10 mm (edge with cardboard), 15 mm (cut edge);
The joints of the sheets, if they are located vertically, should fall on the center of the racks; if they are positioned horizontally, they should fall on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
Step load-bearing beams on the ceiling - 50 cm with a transverse gypsum board arrangement, 40 cm with a vertical position;
The spacing of gypsum board fastening on the ceiling is no more than 17 cm.

Step-by-step construction instructions

Installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after completion of the wet processes and before assembling the finished floor, on the ceiling - after completion of finishing and laying engineering communications. All work is carried out in the following order:

Marking;
Frame assembly;
Installation of sheets;
Finishing work.

1. Marking

On the floor and ceiling, the position of the future starting beams of the frame is marked with a tapping cord, taking into account their thickness. Transfer of marks between the floor and ceiling is performed laser level or a magnetic plumb line. At the same time, mark the location doorways, places for attaching vertical posts, taking into account the selected pitch.

Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical posts. To do this, make an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or decrease the pitch of the profiles in the right places.

2. Frame assembly

Along the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are secured with dowel nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars adjacent to the walls are installed. Their length should be such that they fit tightly between the guides. Fix the elements with self-tapping screws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of the room should be framed around the perimeter.

The insulation is embedded in the frame

Attention! If you plan to place insulation in the space between the frame and the wall, you need to take this into account at the calculation stage, placing the starting beam at the required distance from the wall.

At the second stage, vertical bars with the selected pitch are mounted. To provide additional rigidity to the structure, it is reinforced with horizontally located posts between them.

Laying communications

If you plan to place sanitary pipelines and low-current wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), this must be done after assembling the frame. To simplify the placement process vertical bars, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

3. Installation of sheets

The sheets are placed on the frame, adjusted close to the wall and ceiling, secured with self-tapping screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in the vertical and horizontal planes (alternately). The screw caps are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor and is subsequently sealed with sealant.

Attention. If the self-tapping screw does not enter the material at a right angle or is deformed, it is replaced with another, positioned at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first.

Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of gypsum board edge. The putty composition is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. The corners are treated using reinforcing tape, bending it at the desired angle. After drying, the solution produces finishing surface of the sheets with subsequent placement of the facing material.

Despite the fact that currently there is a method of installing drywall on a frame made of metal profile, many prefer to install this trim on a wooden sheathing.

It is preferable if you need to install a single-level ceiling or simply sheathe a wall. This method is cheaper, the chamber-dried product does not deform, withstands such loads well and can serve reliably for many years. In addition, such installation is simple, and it is chosen by those who carry out plasterboard sheathing themselves.

Installation of a slatted frame for a suspended ceiling

1 Preparatory work.
Before the beginning installation work the lowest point of the ceiling is visually determined. Its design position is marked from it: 5 cm are retreated, and a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter using a level. If the job is done correctly, the start and end points should match. Along this horizontal line, a rail is attached along the entire perimeter using self-tapping screws.
2 Installation of longitudinal slats.
Next you need prepare longitudinal slats for sheathing. The profile is chosen from 30*40 to 50*70 cm. The finished length of each should be 1 cm less than the length of the ceiling. They are screwed with self-tapping screws at an equal distance from each other. Possible curvature of the ceiling surface is eliminated either by cutting off the slats, or by placing small pieces of thick cardboard in the depressions. The longitudinal slats are attached with self-tapping screws to the ceiling surface.
3 Installation of sheathing.
For wooden sheathing choose dried in a special drying chamber slats. This completely eliminates the possibility of their deformation. It must be remembered that when the raw material dries, it can cause the screws to fall out of the wood body. If the material good quality, That slats are attached in increments of 50 to 70 cm. For regions with humid climates or if there is insufficient ventilation in the room, It is better to reduce the step to 40cm. There is no need to skimp on screws. In any case, reliable fastening of the frame slats to the ceiling will ensure long-term and trouble-free operation of the structure in the future.
4 Installation of longitudinal slats for connecting plasterboard sheets.
The suitable size for work is 25*80 mm. The sheet fits comfortably on the wide side. In addition, this guarantees reliable installation. The future location of the slats should be marked in such a way that the joint of the drywall sheets falls in their middle. After this, the electrical cables are laid and the installation of drywall begins.

With us you can install drywall only from high-quality lumber. He passed special drying in chambers, so its surface is dense with required level humidity 12-14%. The slats do not deform and can easily withstand loads as load-bearing frame. Carry out installation on wooden slats simple, reliable and fast.

Working with us, you get the opportunity to purchase an excellent product at a minimal price and carry out repairs in your home without extra costs.