Decorating the attic with plasterboard with your own hands: a step-by-step guide. Stages of self-plastering of an attic with plasterboard How to sheathe an attic with plasterboard on a wooden crate

Today no one needs to be convinced that warm roof in the house is profitable. Huge heat losses are eliminated, the possibility of icing is completely excluded, a new living space appears. It is about the economical organization of the latter that we will now talk about.

Indeed, if the roof was insulated conscientiously, and the height allows, why not use the space that has turned up with benefit and equip another room in your house. Moreover, not so much money will be needed. And since the theme of our site is purely ceiling, then we will talk about how to inexpensively decorate the attic ceiling with plasterboard.

Let's take a look at the photo
As you can see, the insulation packed in a vapor barrier is lined with flat slats with a cross section of 30 × 50 with a step of 30–40 cm. It is simply a sin to spoil such beauty with metal profiles.

So, the first thing to do is to find the trims used for the battens. They must have stayed after construction. But if they have already managed to find another application, a similar bar will have to be bought again. It will not be needed so much, but you will have to purchase about a dozen rails.

Now file out of them the right amount(you have to count and measure) the lintels and fit them over the abutment of your future ceiling to the pediment walls. As a result, you will get a closed loop sewn up wooden slats like CD-profiles - in fact, a ready-made frame.

Now you need to figure out how it is most convenient to arrange drywall sheets on your vault. It is necessary to take into account the fact that it is possible to dock the gypsum board panels only on a bar, but in no case in the air.

When the plan has been decided, you can finally sew on the first GK sheet.

This is done like this:

First, measure the contour of the footprint, check if the lathing is perpendicular to the gable wall, and, based on the data obtained, cut the panel to the desired geometric shape. At the same stage, it is useful to cut and nail the jumpers at the end of the drywall sheet, but you can also, as in the photo, first screw the sheet, and then mount the inserts. True, the second option is more time consuming.

The advantage of working in such low areas as the attic is the ability to mount the ceiling without outside help using the "mop" spacer, which has long been known among drywall makers, to support the panels.
Do you want to order a quality repair?

Thus, it is possible to sew up the entire ceiling plane rather quickly and inexpensively.
But don't be in a hurry to rejoice. Most likely, such "cheapness" will severely limit your choice of further finishes. So, such a vault will only conditionally consist of flat planes, in fact, the initially already mounted lathing slats were not set according to the level, so the presence of "propellers" is guaranteed. It follows from this that painting for such a ceiling is contraindicated. Any light bulb at a glance will show all the flaws.

Another disadvantage would be frame material... You've probably already heard that wood is a living material, and for such products, minor changes in geometry are commonplace. But what may seem insignificant for the euro lining will come out on the gypsum board in the form of cracks. And neither the uniflot nor the seemingly thick ones will help ceiling wallpaper, can vomit directly on the living. But it is not all that bad!

There are no hopeless situations. Today on sale you can find the so-called wet wallpaper. They give a rough textured surface and are easy to restore. For like plasterboard ceilings in the attic this is the most the best option finishes.

For finishing walls and ceilings of attics use durable materials... It is possible to make the surface of the walls even by using sheets of drywall for decoration. After that, equip the attic interior in any style to your taste. Drywall can hold heat indoors better than plastic and other cheap materials. Finish made of this material withstands low and high temperatures, and it is possible to attach mirrors, wall cabinets and shelves without much difficulty.

Drywall is ideal for finishing different premises... It is not expensive. You have the opportunity to insulate the walls with additional materials, which will be located between the walls and the drywall sheathing. Make noise isolation. This material easy to install and does not require special maintenance.

First we carry out preparatory work... The roof must be free of defects and water permeable. Repair the roof, if necessary, so that in the future you will not be bothered by the ingress of water into the attic. And you didn't have to do the skin again. This will save you time and money.

Check the condition of the beams. They should not be damaged by external factors.

Before starting the installation of finishes, the walls and ceiling should be impregnated with an antiseptic, if the house is built from timber... Then dry the room.

Rafter installation takes place in several stages. This method is common. If the finishing room is small, and the distance between the rafters is no more than 75 cm, you do not need to use frameless cladding.

Step-by-step instruction:

• We purchase drywall sheets;
• We cut sheets to size;
• We attach the trim with special glue;
• We fasten drywall to the rafters;
• We fix it with glue and self-tapping screws.

Drywall should be 12.5 centimeters thick. If they are thinner, they can give in to bending in some places.

The inner corners are reinforced with a perforated corner. Then we take the putty and seal the seams and fastening points of screws with rafters.

Decorating the attic floor with plasterboard with your own hands

For finishing the attic, many use frame method... It is reliable and you have the opportunity to insulate the room using special materials. You don't have to use any additional heating devices together with heating systems. You can still do acoustic insulation if you live close to the carriageway.

Stages of frame installation:

• We make measurements of the room;
• We buy everything necessary materials and tools;
• We make installation of the lathing;
• We mount the frame guides around the perimeter;
• We fasten the racks with self-tapping screws for metal;
• We fix the crossbars;
• Laying the wiring;
• We put insulation in the cells of the frame.

Then we do the installation of the lathing. We start all from the walls. Its markings are carried over to the ceiling and floor. In this case, you should monitor the vertical position of the racks.

It is worth remembering: metal guides are fixed in at least three points. The distance between the points should be no more than a meter.

The racks are fastened with metal screws to the guides of the frame structure. The distance should be 40-50 cm between them. The frequency of the crossbars should correspond to the length of the drywall sheets after cutting. Before sheathing the attic with plasterboard, it is worthwhile to carry out all the necessary communications - wiring, heating systems... It is worth laying mineral wool in the cells of the frame. It is used as insulation. This material does not deteriorate under the influence of moisture and rodents.

If the humidity in the attic is high, it is worth tightening the entire structure with a waterproofing membrane for greater protection.

After we sew attic floor drywall of the required thickness so that the finish does not bend from impact. Thin sheets are susceptible to swelling during use. Therefore, you should not save on consumables, then you will not have to change the skin again.

Sheathing of the attic GKL

The principle of lining the attic is similar to the process or concrete.

To do this, you need to purchase: sheets of drywall (gypsum plasterboard), building level and tape measure, puncher, self-tapping screws, metal profiles.

Drywall (GKL) has a gypsum core. All planes of the sheet, except for the end edges, are finished with cardboard. Such material has enhanced properties, since it contains special components.

For finishing the attic, sheets of gypsum plasterboard such as GKLV are suitable. They are moisture resistant.

Sheathing of the attic floor takes place in several stages:

• We cut out sheets of drywall;
• We fasten them to the profile at a distance of 20-25 cm;
• First, we make the sheathing with solid sheets;
• Then we install the cut sheets;
• We produce finishing.

Horizontal seams should be offset from each other by 1/3 of the sheet width. If this happened during installation, replace the whole sheet with a cut sheet.

You can sheathe the attic floor with your own hands quickly and efficiently. To do this, you need to have all the necessary materials, tools and follow the installation instructions.

Finishing touches for the attic floor

Before finishing, it is worth completing the main work: close up the seams, hide the hardware hats, strengthen the corners, prime and putty the finished plasterboard walls and the ceiling.

After puttying, the walls need to be sanded to remove excess putty and to make the seams invisible. This way you can achieve a perfectly flat wall surface. Instructions for filling drywall joints are described in the article:.

We prime the surface so that the paint can easily lay down on the plasterboard walls and do not absorb it. At the very end, let the primer dry and start gluing the wallpaper or applying paint with a roller.

Tips for finishing drywall attic (video)

You can independently equip the attic floor using drywall sheets for decoration. Thus, you will receive smooth walls, hide all communications and be able to glue the wallpaper. Finishing attic depends on your taste and design style of the room, which you will choose from ready-made options or you will design it yourself.

Self-finishing of the attic with plasterboard (process photo)

Often, the attic space in the house is made residential, because this is an excellent option to increase the usable area without high costs. Finishing the attic with plasterboard is an excellent solution to the problem interior design allowing you to quickly make non-residential premises habitable.

Increasingly, attics began to be used as living quarters, and everyone's favorite drywall is used as decoration.

However, this type of work is associated with many nuances, because the attic itself does not have thick walls, and it will be necessary to insulate and strengthen the entire structure.

What are the advantages of finishing the attic floor with plasterboard?

First, it is affordable and relatively inexpensive option to quickly make repairs in an initially completely uninhabitable room.

Secondly, at the exit, ideal flat surfaces of the walls are obtained, which will facilitate their further decoration according to the conceived decoration plan.

Third, even with emergency(roof leak) moisture resistant drywall able to withstand moisture for some time.

Fourthly, gypsum plasterboard is a very environmentally friendly material, since it does not contain anything other than paper and gypsum.

And finally, this simple technology installation that any homeowner can handle with a minimum set of tools.

1st stage: preparation

If it was planned to make the attic a living space at the construction stage, then all the nuances should be taken into account in the project. But what to do when there is such a need for a ready-made house?

Before transferring such a room to the category of residential, you first need to calculate the margin of safety for the overlap. In new houses built after the 80s, it is usually made of reinforced concrete panels, and there should be no problems. But in old houses, it may be necessary to replace the entire floor.

At the stage of preparation, you need to insulate the room, since the roof consumes up to 30% of the total heat of the house.

Two main types of material are used as insulation - foam or mineral wool. The insulation technology is as follows.

1. Between the rafters to the surface roofing material mount the hydro-vapor barrier in the form of a special film.
2. According to the size of the cells formed by the rafter supports, the insulation is cut and placed on the installation site.
3. Another layer of vapor barrier is placed on the insulation material.
4. The surface is closed OSB plates, Chipboard or plywood.

The last layer in the form of sheets of one or another material can be omitted, but simply vapor barrier film fasten with insulation with longitudinal strips stuffed along the entire floor.

Also, ordinary PVC film cannot be used as a waterproofing layer. It does not have the ability to pass water vapor, as a result of which condensation will first form inside, and over time, mold and mildew.

2nd stage: materials and tools

Drywall in the attic is mounted according to the same principle as in ordinary living quarters, that is, on a frame basis. Accordingly, the selection of materials and tools is the same, namely:

• Metal profile for CD and UD markings.
• Fastening material: self-tapping screws, press washers, crab connections.
• Hacksaw or scissors for metal, tape measure, level, screwdriver.
• Drywall, preferably moisture resistant.

Also, the frame can be made not metal, but wooden. For this, a well-dried timber is harvested - the main and bearing rails. The tree should not only be dried. Before assembling the frame, all wooden parts must be processed antiseptic agents to protect against mold and mildew. And in no case should you assemble the frame on nails!

To install drywall in the attic, you can use both a metal and a wooden frame.

3rd stage: assembly of the frame base

The attic floor can be finished with plasterboard in three versions: metal carcass, wooden or directly on rafter system.

Metal profile frame

First, it is planned to arrange all partitions, both wall and interior (if any).

1. And also the area on the basis of which the ceiling surface will be formed.
2. Usually, at some distance from the wall, a low partition (wall) is mounted. For this, two longitudinal guides from the UD profile are mounted along the room.
3. The carrier rails of the CD profile are inserted into the guide rails. If possible, you can make additional fastening on straight hangers to the rafters. If necessary, transverse slats from the same profile are also mounted, connecting with each other with "crabs".

Self-tapping screws or press washers are used for fastening. The ceiling of the attic made of plasterboard is also mounted on such a frame. For its assembly, suspensions with traction may be needed, since the length of the straight lines does not always allow fixing the frame structure. For assembly ceiling base carry out the following work:

1. The lowest point is measured, and markings are made from it using the hydro level. All marks are connected with a marking cord.
2. According to the marks, guide profiles are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws.
3. Carrying rails from the profile are inserted into them and fixed on press washers. If required, perform additional attachment to hangers or rods.

With a significant length of the ceiling structure, the use of additional straight hangers or fasteners with rods is mandatory!

Also, longitudinal carrier rails are mounted, which are connected to the transverse ones using connections.

Wooden frame

For its assembly, two types of rails are used - main and bearing. Basic - fastened to the rafter system with self-tapping screws, they serve as the basis for installation load-bearing beams... Carriers - serve as a support for plasterboard sheets.

Also, if you do not plan to create walls and partitions, you can fix the bearing rails directly on the rafters, which in turn will play the role of the main ones.

For installation timber frame walls, there is the following algorithm:

1. Install longitudinal slats.
2. The frame racks are mounted on them, connected to the longitudinal rails using a mounting angle.
3. Insert transverse bars, securing them with racks.

If necessary, the frame is treated with an antiseptic and the installation of the gypsum board begins.

Rafters as a frame

You can also make a device for filing the attic GKL directly on the rafter system. Alternatively, you can mount the longitudinal slats, and then sheets of material are attached to them. And you can mount the gypsum board directly on the rafters using self-tapping screws for wood, this is the most cheap finishing attic floor with plasterboard. In this case, you can not even assemble the frame under ceiling structure... In this version, the plasterboard ceiling of the attic repeats all the shapes of the roof.

4th stage: how to finish the attic with drywall

The process is exactly the same as in a normal room.

As in any other case, when working with drywall at the finishing stage, it is necessary to putty and primer.

1. Sheets of material, if necessary, are cut to size.
2. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws, pressing the caps into the surface by 2 millimeters.
3. If it is necessary to bend a sheet, then a cardboard shell is pierced at the bend and the material is moistened. Then the sheet is applied to the frame in the desired shape and fixed. When dry, it will take the desired shape.
4. Serpyanka is glued at the joints of the gypsum board and proceeds to further finishing.

The attic made of plasterboard, made according to the technology, will last a very long time and will allow you to increase the useful square of the house without significant investment.

Plasterboard finishing of the attic provides flat surface for decorative coating any type, allows you to lay insulation, soundproof and vapor barrier materials, makes it possible to maneuver when laying communications.

Attic floor

• Water resistance - roof spaces often have high humidity, in such conditions it is better to use gypsum board reinforced with hybrid impregnation (GKLV - green);
• Fire resistance - for protection wooden rafters roofs are suitable for non-combustible gypsum board with fiberglass filler (red marker);
• Manufacturers produce a modified type of drywall with a combination of properties and qualities inherent in fire-resistant and water-repellent boards;
• Acoustic gypsum plasterboards have sound-absorbing characteristics.

Calculating the nominal load on the frame, take into account the weight of the gypsum board. A standard 12.5 mm plasterboard weighs approximately 10 kg. It is important to remember that specialized drywall analogs of a larger mass.

The number of sheets required for cladding is calculated by dividing the area of ​​all surfaces that are planned to be sheathed with the material by the area of ​​one sheet. It is advisable to make a small supply of drywall.

Materials, fixtures and tools

Before sheathe the attic with plasterboard, perform a set of measures for the selection, acquisition and preparation of all Supplies, devices and related tools for installation works:

• Composition for sealing joints - 3.5-4 liters will go for 10 m² of gypsum board;
• Putty knife;
• Reinforced material - GKL will take about 3 m for 10 m²;
• Perforated corner;
• Metal profiles - straight and angular;
• Suspensions;
• Hardware - self-tapping screws, screws, dowel-nails, rivets (it is better to use stainless steel grades so that rust spots do not form on the gypsum board);
• Pencil;
• A laser device or other analogue of a level - for marking and checking axes;
• Carbide drills;
• Universal nutrunner - frame assembly and sheet fastening;
• Roulette;
• Cutting tools for metal;
• Screwdriver different types and size;
• Crabs;
• Grinder - cutting the required sections of metal profiles;
• Saw on gypsum board;
• Drill with attachments.

Technological progress of work

Finishing the attic with plasterboard provides for the following stages:

• Preparation of an attic-type space for finishing - they empty the room, clean the bases, carry out work to eliminate leaks in the roof, check the reliability of the beams and rafters of the roofing system;
• Design and calculation work;
• Marking is carried out according to the drawings;
• Mount the frame;
• Laying and routing of communication systems;
• Installation of plasterboard sheets;
• Corner protection;
• Preparation of surfaces for decorative finishing.

Frame construction

The frame method is reliable, with its help they insulate the attic floor of the dwelling. Installation of the frame is required:

• If the attic space is too large;
• If to interior cladding roofs cannot be attached with gypsum plasterboards;
• If you have conceived an interior project of a complex or non-standard configuration.

Attic surfaces have a complex-broken character of surfaces. Wall bases are perpendicular to the floor or inclined at different degrees. Installation of the frame in accordance with the level of the planes and accurate measurement of surfaces using a building level and a tape measure are the key to successful installation work on the construction of the frame. The better the frame is made, the longer the service life of the drywall.

Metal profiles are fixed according to the markings. Holes are drilled on the floor and ceiling, equal to the holes on the metal slats. The fastening is carried out directly by means of hardware and brackets with an interval of 0.6-0.8 m.

Suspended consoles or brackets are mounted along vertical axes. Then, along the vertical markings, vertical slats are attached to the guides along the perimeter and hangers.

Attic insulation

Algorithm for carrying out work on laying for the cladding material of insulation boards, air conditioning and communications systems:

• Fasteners for pipe hangers;
• Installation of main clamps;
• Laying of vapor barrier materials;
• Installation of holders (mushrooms) for insulation;
• Lighting wiring.

Attic floors are insulated:

• Mineral wool - rolled or slab;
• Foam boards are a productive and popular material.

The insulation is laid loosely or fixed between the sections of the frame:

• On liquid nails;
• Adhesive composition;
• They are fixed with wooden slats or pieces of a profile - preferable for reliability and practicality.

In all cases, the laying is done so that there is a gap for air between the drywall and the insulation.

Vapor barrier products are sold in rolls. Therefore, the material is cut for ease of use, the pieces are overlapped, and fixed to the base using a specialized stapler.

The final layer of the entire structure is a moisture vapor barrier membrane.

Facing works

Attic spaces of irregular shape, may have defects in corners. The cladding starts with whole sheet... Sheathed surfaces from below, side and front walls, then roof slopes, openings and go to corner joints, having previously completed the cut of the material.

Plasterboard sheets are installed in two ways:

• Vertically - with a step of 25-35 cm;
• Horizontally - with a step of 45-55 cm.

Install drywall sheets on a metal frame using a screwdriver. The hardware is fixed perpendicularly to the surface, embedding their heads into the material by a few millimeters.

Each new row of material is mounted in such a way that the seam lines do not continue the previous row. Gaps of 3-5 mm are made between the sheets.

With two-layer sheathing, fastening is performed alternately. The first layer is fixed, then the second.

The decoration of windows, arches, doors is carried out along the perimeter of the opening.

The gypsum plasterboard ceiling is also mounted on a metal frame or tied to the load-bearing roof beams.

If a solid plasterboard is difficult to fit between the beveled ceiling base and a beam, the material is then sawn into two parts. To do this, an incision is made along the marked line, then broken by pressing along the notch line.

Partitions are placed perpendicular to the floor base, they are mounted with a profile step of 40-50 cm.

The holes for communications are made with a drill according to the markings; for this, a sheet of drywall is placed on a flat surface.

At the last stage of work, perform:

• Sealing seams and joints with putty;
• Fill gaps in openings and fixation points with sealant;
• Strengthens corners;
• Putting;
• All surfaces are primed.

Installation of plasterboard on rafter legs

This option is suitable for small attic... For frameless cladding, plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 20 mm or more are required.

After making sure that the rafters are installed firmly and reliably, are not damaged by rodents, are not susceptible to mold and cracking, proceed to fixing the plasterboard sheets directly to the roof rafters.

On the wall surfaces, gypsum plasterboards are planted on a layer of glue. Self-tapping screws are also used for the ceiling. Height irregularities and differences are leveled with embedded slats.

Installation on a wooden frame

The moisture content of the wood used is allowed in the range from 15 to 40%. Wooden elements pre-dried, treated with antiseptic preparations, fire retardants.

The parameters of the rails used are determined by the pitch of the rafters. With a step of 75-100 cm, elements with a section of 45x60 mm are used. The thickness of the gypsum plasterboard used is also taken into account.

The lathing with wooden slats is made transversely to the rafters. Plasterboard plates are attached to them.

In contact with

Finishing the attic with plasterboard helps to increase useful area and concealment of defects in wall ceilings, creating a healthy microclimate.

This is a lightweight material that, with a minimum of labor costs, will not create a large load on the attic structure.

But Finishing work gypsum plasterboard sheets are made after thermal insulation of the room, since the material itself is not insulating.

So the attic space is a sub-roof space with conditions prone to high levels of humidity.

To calculate the required number of drywall finishing sheets, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​the surfaces to be sheathed and divide the result by the area of ​​the 1st gypsum board.

The purchase of cladding material should be carried out with a margin. The need for other building materials and tools depends on the finishing method.

Training

Using attic room in the summer, preparation consists in removing the existing old coating from its surfaces and cleaning the wall and ceiling ceilings from dust and debris.

Finishing work does not start without checking the condition of the roof slab.

During the rainy season, weak spots the roof and then its timely repair will guarantee the absence of smudges on the mounted plasterboard sheets.

Beams and rafters are checked for their strength, dryness, and the absence of traces of rot and mold.

With a recently erected attic, the finish is postponed until its structure is completely dry, as this can affect the displacement and deformation of the drywall.

Fastening is done in 1 or 2 layers. Start with the side planes, leaving the headliner for last.

Warming process

As an insulating material, you can use polystyrene, the thickness of which is within 2-10 cm. When installing plates from this material, the joints are processed for tightness with polyurethane foam.

The disadvantage is the ability to create favorable conditions for rodents.

When installing mineral wool as an insulating material, the appearance of dust, which is unsafe for human health, cannot be avoided. The layer thickness is within 2-20 cm.

Correct insulation technology requires the creation of a waterproofing layer from the inside of the plane, located with the porous part outward.

Therefore, surface insulation begins with cutting waterproofing material v right size and its fastenings between the rafters.

Please watch a video on the topic:

The material is stretched and secured with a stapler. Overlapping the edges of the waterproofer.

Tools and materials

• Plasterboard sheets;
• Straight metal profiles 2.5 - 6 m;
• Corner metal profiles;
• Suspensions;
• Crabs;
• Electric drill;
• Metal spatula;
• Long tape measure.

The frame can be made using a wooden beam, the moisture content of which is from 12%.

In this case, it will need to be pre-treated with antiseptics, which will extend its service life and protect it from decay.

Rafter mount

Finishing the attic with plasterboard with its attachment to the rafters is recommended for a small room with a step between rafters up to 75 cm.

The advantages of this option are the speed of work, minimum costs compared to the construction of the lathing, and a minimum of physical effort during the installation process.

Minus - the possibility of difficulties in leveling the finishing layer due to the imperfection of the even arrangement of the rafters.

Therefore, to smooth this defect, a thicker material is chosen - 25 mm, since thin gypsum plasterboard sheets will be susceptible to bending and damage when the roof slab vibrates.

On a metal frame

Before fastening, the frame borders are marked on the floor using a paint cord. A similar contour is transferred to ceiling slab plumb line.

The lines on the surfaces mark the locations of the frame elements.

The guides are mounted with dowels and self-tapping screws. Fixation of a separate profile section to the base is carried out in at least 3 places with a step of up to 1 m.

The hangers securing the frame are mounted vertically.

The installation of the racks in the guides is done relative to the vertical markings. Elements are attached to guides and hangers with self-tapping screws.

Plasterboard boards are fastened with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm.

With a capacity in height more for vertically located material, the fastening of its plates is carried out with an offset for the absence of long horizontal joints.

Installation on wooden lathing

Lathing - frame structure made of wood, constructed from slats running across the rafters. Placing the battens in one plane using leveling shims.

Plasterboard slabs are installed vertically on horizontal beams.

The importance of this step lies in the final leveling of the plane. Failure to carry out this process will favor the appearance of cracks.

Seams first. An overlay of the connecting reinforcing tape is made with the passage of the seam relative to exactly its middle.

After the 1st putty layer has hardened, the thinner layer is reapplied to the seam with tape.

After it is completely dry, the filling is done with a 3rd layer. The grooves from the self-tapping screws are also closed. At the end, all the roughness is sanded.