How to properly assemble distribution boxes. Step-by-step instructions for installing socket boxes and junction boxes. Various ways to connect switches and lighting fixtures

About how much important element for the electrical supply system is a distribution box, anyone, even not the most experienced electrician, can say. This one, it would seem, is not the most complex design, provides:

evenly distributed load from elements consuming energy;
possibility to add at any time common system powering a new branch of the electrical circuit without resorting to fundamental changes in the existing wiring;
ease of use and repair of electrical communications.

In principle, electrical distribution boxes are housings made of plastic and metal, inside which a number of necessary parts of the electrical network can be joined together. Today we will talk about the switching version of the distribution box, which, in turn, can be overhead or built into the walls. Both types, as a rule, are supplied with the required number of special terminals, with the help of which the wires can be connected reliably and quickly.

Switching type of distribution boxes - optimal solution in case there is a need to connect wires with conductors from various materials. Typical example- copper and aluminum cables, which tend to oxidize when interacting with each other. As a result, after some time the contact disappears completely and some “consumers” simply stop working.

As for the shape of the current distribution boxes, there is no particular variety here, only square and round options with various dimensions.

So, let's talk directly about the process of installing and connecting the distribution switching box. If we talk about installing the box itself, there is nothing complicated or problematic here. Built-in versions of boxes are built into the walls, and overhead boxes are attached to the walls with dowels or self-tapping screws. Installation of a built-in box is more complex and time-consuming; in this case, it involves the creation of a special landing niche. In one of the walls, closer to the ceiling, it is necessary to make a niche of the appropriate size, this is where the box will be installed and secured with alabaster or cement mortar.

However, these procedures refer to the final stage of work. First of all, you should create a “network” of grooves - channels through which cables will be connected to the distribution box. The required number of drops to switch boxes and sockets must be in a strictly vertical position. In order to lay cables horizontally, it is recommended to take advantage of the gaps between the floor slabs and the walls.

After completing the preparation of the grooves and installation of the socket boxes, we proceed directly to the electrical wiring device - an important part of this process will be the installation and connection of the distribution box.

Often the process of connecting wires inside a distribution box causes certain difficulties. To avoid them, we recommend marking each end of the cable in one way or another. For example, we connect the wire that supplies power from the electrical panel - we mark it with the appropriate word, we connect the cable from the socket block - the same thing, etc. Each individual electrical circuit that we connect to the distribution box must be labeled accordingly, in this case we will not face confusion later.

Now let’s take a break from the distribution box for a couple of minutes and say a few words about the cable cross-sections that are used when wiring a house or apartment. It is known that voltage is supplied to rooms from the electrical panel, as a rule, using a three or two-core cable with a cross-section of at least 4 square millimeters. This cross-section allows the cable to easily withstand any powerful power consumers. To connect sockets, cables with a cross section of 2.5 are used square millimeters, and for a lighting system a section of one and a half square is sufficient.

So, having decided on optimal values wire sections, you can begin the process of switching them inside the distribution box.

At first glance, this work may seem quite complicated, however, if you understand well the principle of wiring, everything will not be so difficult. So what do we have? There is an entry point and a lot of cables that need to be connected to it. The input is called three multi-colored wires along which “ground”, “phase” and “zero” go. In the same way, wires are connected to socket groups and switch boxes.

So, we connect the cables to the distribution box according to the principle “ground to ground,” “zero to zero,” and phase to phase.” Most likely, there will be no problems connecting wires from sockets, look at the colors, that’s the whole science. In the case of switches, everything is somewhat different. The outgoing phase going directly to the switch box is connected to the input phase, the lighting zero is connected directly to the input zero, and the phase coming from the switch is connected to the phase of the lighting circuit.

The most important point to note Special attention when installing the distribution box, ensure reliable connection of the cables to each other.

If we mean a junction box that has terminals, then usually problems with the connection do not arise. Simply insert the wires (according to the instructions described above) and clamp them securely with screws. The situation is different with boxes that are not equipped with terminals. Such products will have to be soldered additionally. We carry out this “procedure” in this way. First, we reliably twist the wires together using pliers. Then we take a soldering iron and solder the wires using special solder and rosin. If you are planning mass installation large quantity distribution boxes, to ensure reliable connections, it is better to use electric welding.

One of the important and responsible works is electrical installation. Not only the uninterrupted operation of all electrical appliances in the apartment, but also the safety of the home as a whole depends on the quality of their implementation. Such work begins with the installation of electrical installation products. Today we will touch upon the issues of arranging electrical outlets and junction boxes.

Installation of socket boxes

The socket box, also known as the installation box, is the basis for the installation of sockets and switches.

According to the rules against fire safety and building codes and regulations, electrical wiring, as well as sockets and switches, can be of two types: mounted open method(on the surface of the wall) and hidden (directly into the wall). In the case when all the wiring in the apartment is done in an open way (for example, in boxes) or when connecting an additional electrical appliance, external sockets/switches are used.

However, much more often the wiring is done in a more aesthetic way in a hidden way(for example, by scratching the wall), therefore, sockets/switches are also mounted in the wall. With this installation method, in accordance with SNiPs, it is necessary to use socket boxes.

It is recommended that the installation of socket boxes and unopened boxes be carried out simultaneously with the laying of electrical cables. In this case, when marking the wiring, the future locations of end points (sockets/switches) and node stations (junction boxes) are marked.

Installation of socket boxes

We determine the height of the future socket/switch, and, therefore, the installation location of the socket box. For the most part, it depends on the overall design project of the room and the designer’s intentions. One of the placement options from an ergonomic point of view is a height of seventy centimeters from the floor. Sockets can be placed at a height of about thirty centimeters from the floor. If there are small children in the family, electrical installation products are mounted as high as possible. From an aesthetic point of view, they should all be located at the same height. For the kitchen, the optimal level is just above the table. Another important rule: distance of at least half a meter from electrical appliances and gas pipes.
We draw the outline of the future mounting hole of the socket box, attaching it to the wall as a sample. Using a drill or hammer drill with a hole saw attachment, make a hole in the wall. The size of the hole depends on the wall material. If it is concrete or brick, the diameter should be three millimeters deeper and wider than the box itself. In this case, it will be fixed using alabaster or plaster. If the wall material is plasterboard, then the hole should be equal to the box. In this case, fastening is carried out using the socket box legs. Taking into account this difference in installation, we also select the type of socket box - “for plaster” or “for plasterboard”.

Having drilled the outline of the hole using a “crown”, we remove the hammer drill and, using a hammer and chisel, remove the remaining stones and trim the bottom. If there is no “crown” attachment or the shape of the hole should not be round, but square, we use a hammer drill with a diamond attachment for concrete, a grinder or a drill for concrete.
After the hole for the socket box is prepared, we make a fine - a groove for laying electric cable. We deepen the hole into the hole so that the cable passes freely. Next, we break out special holes at the bottom of the box, cover them with hatches, and insert the cable.
We clean the mounting hole from dust and apply a primer. To securely fix the box in monolithic wall(brick/concrete) we use building plaster or gypsum glue(knead until the stage of soft plasticine).

Apply a little prepared mixture into the planting hole. Insert the socket and press down with your fingers. A small amount of glue should squeeze out into the openings of the box.
We cover the resulting gap between it and the hole with the prepared mixture (gypsum, glue, alabaster) using a spatula. After drying, remove the remaining mixture with a spatula.
After the mixture has completely dried, remove it from the socket, level and sand the outer edges. The socket box is prepared for installation of a socket or switch.

Arrangement of junction boxes

The junction box, also known as the distribution box, is the location and protection of the connections of electrical wires and cables.

After installing the socket in the electrical box, it is necessary to connect the power supply to it. Since running a separate cable from the distribution panel to each consumer is impractical, switching is performed from the main wire connected to the junction box. It is in it that electrical wires going to various consumers are connected. This method is aesthetically neat and safe.

Junction boxes should be installed in easily accessible places - for convenience service. Access to wires must be quick and unhindered. The number of junction boxes in one room is not regulated, but aesthetic characteristics and expediency must be taken into account. The location is usually under the ceiling. In wet areas- showers, bathrooms - junction boxes are placed on external wall, not inside.

Junction boxes can be either external or internal. And, just like the socket boxes, - under brick/plasterboard.

Before installing junction boxes, we create a network of grooves through which electrical wires and cables from electrical installation products are laid. An important point when laying wiring: lines to sockets/switches are drawn strictly vertically, and horizontal ones can be located in niches formed by the wall and floor slab.
After completing a series of strips and socket boxes, we install the wiring, an important part of which is the installation of a junction box. We attach the overhead junction box to the wall using self-tapping screws/dowels. We install the hidden box directly into the wall. The installation procedure is similar to installing socket boxes in a hidden way. We mount the box into the prepared hole/niche and fix it with alabaster/plaster.

We complete the installation of the junction box by connecting wires and cables. Our task is to connect many wires to the input, i.e. main cable containing three wires: “phase”, “zero” and “ground”. We connect the wires going to the sockets by color: “phase” to “phase”, “zero” to “zero”, “grounding” to “grounding”, respectively. As for the wires leading to the switch, the principle is different. We connect the “phase” towards the switch with the “phase” of the lighting circuit, and connect the “zero” of the lighting to the “zero” of the input.
An important installation point in terms of safety is the connection of wires. This is done in two ways: soldering several wires or connecting with terminals. We carefully place the insulated wires in a box and close it, without walling it up, but leaving room for access.

In the premises of buildings on structures for various purposes, wiring is laid from the input distribution board in most cases along the walls through distribution boxes. In some cases, installation is carried out on the ceiling or floor. IN classic version of a private house or apartment, three groups of lines are allocated from the distribution board:

Lighting;
Rosette;
Lines for individual high-power heating devices.

A circuit breaker is installed for each group in the control panel. Heating devices, electric stoves are usually connected via a separate line, bypassing distribution boxes with an individual safety switch.

Lighting and socket lines are laid through boxes in which a circuit break is made to connect branches to sockets, switches, chandeliers, lampshades and other lighting fixtures.

The wires of the main line are selected with a larger cross-section than the branches, this is due to the fact that on a separate outlet or lighting fixture, the load currents are limited by the power of one device. On the main line, the current strength is the total from the load from all outlets.

Basic requirements for installation locations of distribution boxes

One of the main requirements of the PUE is quick access to the distribution box; it should not be filled with furniture, household equipment, walled up with a thick layer of plaster or covered with bricks. In case of wiring repairs or modifications, the box cover should open easily. It is not recommended to install distribution boxes in walls at the level of hanging cabinets; a dowel or self-tapping screw may fall into the box when drilling.

This technique allows you to navigate when drilling walls so as not to damage hidden wires. When installing suspended ceilings, hatches are made to provide access to the boxes. In old premises, wiring and boxes can be moved outside under the frame suspended ceiling, in new buildings this is taken into account and done immediately.

Types of distribution boxes

Distribution boxes are divided according to two characteristics: material of manufacture and design.

Materials:

Metal;
Plastic.

Old-style metal boxes are in most cases used for installation in wooden walls to ensure fire safety. Modern models are made of plastic.

Table 1 JBR distribution boxes

Depending on the method of laying the wiring and the material of the walls in the boxes, there are design differences:

Overhead boxes for open wiring;
Internal boxes for hidden wiring;
Products can be square or round cylindrical with different depths;
For installation in brick and concrete walls;
For mounting in walls with hollow spaces, in decorative finishing, drywall, plywood, chipboard or other materials.

Depending on the installation conditions, the design of the distribution boxes and the appropriate installation method are selected.

Features of installation methods for distribution boxes of various designs

The simplest process when installing overhead boxes for exposed wiring. They are simply screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws or nailed with dowels. In the case of boxes for hidden wiring in the walls, you have to drill holes of the appropriate diameter and depth. The dimensions of the boxes are selected based on the number of wires that go into it; the more wires, the larger the diameter and depth of the box should be.

Installation of distribution boxes in brick and concrete walls

In extreme cases, holes in brick and concrete walls can be drilled with a hammer and chisel, but this requires a lot of effort and time. In modern conditions, a hammer drill is used with special crowns of various diameters, which have pobedit, tungsten or diamond teeth around the circumference. A drill with a tip made of the listed materials is installed in the center of the crown; this stabilizes the crown during drilling.

Size table various models crowns for concrete

Before installation, the ends of the wires are inserted into the technological holes of the box. A gypsum mortar is applied around the perimeter of the hole and a glass is inserted to its full depth; the upper edges of the glass of the box body should be level with the wall surface. After the solution has hardened, you can begin cutting and connecting the wires.

Tip No. 1 In order for the top edge of the box to coincide with the level of the plane of the wall surface, it must be installed after laying the wires and plastering the walls.

Installation of distribution boxes in hollow walls (plasterboard, plywood, other decorative materials)

A hole can be drilled in drywall using a concrete drill bit. wood slabs drilled with special crowns with several toothed plates. The boxes in these cases have clamping strips in their design, which, after installation, are pressed against the back side of the drywall sheet by rotating the bolts. Before installation, the ends of the wires are inserted through the holes into the box. You can drill holes a regular drill using the appropriate attachment.

Tip No. 2 A typical mistake: before drilling a crown with a hammer drill with a crown for concrete, do not forget to switch it from the perforation mode to the normal drilling mode. Otherwise, the gypsum board may simply break, crack, or form a shapeless hole.

Cutting and connecting wires in the box

The wires are inserted into the box at 15 - 20 cm, from cables such as PUNP, VVG and other similar types, the outer layer of insulation is removed almost completely, leaving 2 - 3 cm in front of the technological hole. Insulation with current-carrying cores is removed by 7 - 8 cm, the connected ends of the wires are folded into one bundle, and clamped with pliers at the level of the insulation cut.

The ends of the exposed wires are clamped with the second pliers, the first pliers are held in place, the second ones are rotated clockwise, thus twisting is done.

A typical mistake when twisting wires is twisting; the wires must be pulled tightly, but the force must be calculated so that the wires do not burst due to overtightening.

Unevenly protruding strands at the end of the twist are cut off evenly with pliers; according to the requirements of the PUE, the ends of the twist must be welded or soldered.

After twisting, the bare ends are insulated; this can be done in various ways:

Regular PVC electrical tape;
Heat shrink tubes;
Plastic caps.

Recently, boxes with contact strips have appeared, where switching is carried out on terminals with bolt clamps.

Having finished the insulation, the wires are laid inside the box so that the twists do not touch each other, then the lid is closed. To make the lid harmonize with the interior, it is painted in the appropriate color and sealed with a circle of appropriate wallpaper or other material.

Wire connection diagrams may be different, depending on the connected wiring elements. But there are general rules:

All ground wires are twisted into one twist;
All neutral wires are twisted into a separate twist;
Phase wires are also twisted into one separate twist;
The wires from the outlet in a three-wire circuit are connected directly to the main line, one wire to the phase twist, the second to the neutral and the third to ground.
Lighting devices are connected in phase through a switch, the neutral wire from the base contact goes into the box for neutral twisting, grounding from the lighting fixture body to the grounding twist.

Blue is used as the neutral wire;
Red, white, brown and others as phase;
A conductor with yellow-green insulation serves as grounding.

FAQ

The holes in the box are made at the very bottom, the wires go higher and interfere with installing the box in the hole in the wall, what should you do in this case, maybe remove the outer shell and lead the wires to the hole between the box body and the concrete?

No, the wires must fit into the holes freely and not be pinched by the box body. In front of the technological hole in the wall, a short groove is made to the insertion depth, then it is covered with gypsum mortar.

There are boxes with lids that don't close well, is it better to buy one with a lid that is screwed on?

Manufacturers usually make high-quality boxes with tight-fitting lids. If the box was closed before installation, then it will be closed after. In this case, a characteristic mistake is made when pressing the box into the hole in the wall; the body goes very deep, the upper edges are below the level of the wall surface. The second option, when the box is fixed with gypsum mortar, the body is deformed and the upper part takes the shape of an ellipse. In these cases round lid or does not fit tightly, or does not close at all, be careful when installing.

An important element of electrical wiring in a house or apartment is the installation of a junction box. Being a link in the entire electrical chain, it is responsible for the distribution of electricity among consumers. A box is installed in each room or room, all the wires that come from the sockets are collected in it, lighting fixtures.

What is a junction box and what does it consist of?

It is perhaps difficult to overestimate the importance of the junction box. Thanks to the box, convenience is provided in the process of operation and in repairing electrical wiring. In addition, as already mentioned, it distributes the load from all consumers in the room. The electrical distribution box promotes order and makes it possible to add more and more branches of the electrical network, without radically interfering with the existing wiring.

In appearance, the electrical distribution box is a plastic or metal casing to which all electrical wires are connected without exception. It is divided into two types: surface-mounted or recessed into the wall. Each of them is equipped with special terminals, with the help of which a reliable and quick connection of wires is made.

This version of the junction box allows you to connect wires made of different materials. The box allows you to connect even incompatible materials, such as aluminum and copper, which oxidize when in contact with each other. Over time, such contact disappears and any of the consumers stops working. Based on the shape of the box, they are also divided into two types: square and round. They all have different sizes.

DIY distribution box installation

The installation of the overhead box is quite simple; it is attached to the wall using dowels. But installing a built-in distribution box will require some effort and skill. You will need to create a special seat for it. As high as possible, preferably near the ceiling, a niche is selected in the wall into which the box is installed, using alabaster or cement.

However, this refers to the last stage of work; first, a network of grooves should be installed through which wires will be supplied to the box. Descents to electrical outlets and switches should be made strictly vertical, to install horizontal wiring, you can use the existing gap between the floor slabs and the wall.

After completing the installation of the grooves and installing the socket boxes, it is necessary to proceed directly to the installation of electrical wiring, while the installation of the distribution box is an integral part of the work being carried out.

One thing not to forget important detail. To avoid difficulties when connecting wires in the box, the end of each wire coming out of it should be labeled. They just connected the wire feeding the electrical panel and immediately signed its “input”. They connected the wires from the sockets and signed again. In this case, each individual circuit that connects to the distribution box should be signed separately, in this case, you will definitely not get confused with the connection of the wires.

Putting aside for a moment the question of the design of the junction box, let's figure out what wire cross-sections are used when installing electrical wiring. From the panel located in the apartment, each room is supplied electrical voltage on two and three-core wires, its cross-section should not be less than 4 squares. This is the kind of cable that can withstand anyone, enough powerful consumer. In this case, the sockets are connected using a wire having a cross-section of 2.5 squares, and lighting devices - 1.5 squares.

Having selected the correct cross-section of the wire and assembled the electrical wiring, we proceed to complete the installation of the junction box and connect all the necessary wires in it.

The work, which is quite complex at first glance, is done quite easily if you delve into the installation process and understand the very principle of how the wiring works. We have a variety of wires and inputs for connecting them. The input consists of two or three wires that differ in color. One of them supplies the phase, the other “zero”, the third is intended for grounding. Wires are connected to switches and sockets in exactly the same way.

In general, the mechanism for connecting wires is now clear: “zero” to “zero”, phase to phase, grounding to grounding. When connecting wires to sockets, there are no difficulties at all; you just need to connect the wires by color. The situation with connecting lighting is a little different. In this case, the outgoing phase going to the switch is connected to the phase of the lighting circuit, and the “zero” of the input is connected to the “zero” of the lighting.

One of the most important points when constructing an electrical distribution box is a reliable and high-quality connection between them. If at installation work using a communication box equipped with terminals, the situation is simpler. You just have to insert the wires and tighten the screws harder. But in the case when the box design does not require the use of special terminals, the wires must be soldered. This is done in this way: first, the wires are twisted together with pliers, after which they are soldered using rosin or other special solder, as well as tin. If large-scale installation of electrical wiring is carried out, electric welding is often used to ensure high-quality connection of wires.

At this point, we can assume that all work on the installation of the electrical distribution box is completed. All welded or soldered electrical wires are placed in the junction box, then it is closed. In anticipation of subsequent repairs, it should not be closed tightly into the wall; it would be better to make it more accessible, so that if repair work is necessary, you can have free access to it.

There aren't many people who don't know what a junction box is. Nevertheless, it would not be amiss to recall that this is Plastic container round or rectangular shape with a lid and holes on the sides, designed for switching (connecting) electrical wires.

To provide all energy-consuming appliances of an apartment or house (light bulbs, lamps, washing machines, TVs, computers, etc.) with electricity, it is necessary to route the wires from the distribution panel to the points of consumption - sockets and switches.

This must be done in such a way as to ensure uniform distribution of electricity throughout all rooms.

To do this, the electrical wiring is divided into separate lines. Each room has its own supply wires, to which all energy consumers in the room are connected.

At certain nodal points the wires are connected to each other. At such points, distribution boxes are installed, inside which connections are located.

primary goal distribution boxes– ensuring fire safety. Wire connection points are the most dangerous from a fire point of view. Insufficiently tight contact creates high resistance in the connection and leads to its heating, sometimes leading to a fire.

Junction box isolates the connection point from flammable wall materials, eliminating the risk of fire. In addition to this main goal, there is a secondary one. Twisted wires that are not hidden in a box do not look very aesthetically pleasing.

By type of design, distribution boxes can be internal, designed for embedding into the wall (for connecting hidden wiring), and overhead, installed on the wall (for open wiring).

Is it possible to do without junction boxes at all?

Theoretically, yes. But to do this, you will need to connect the distribution panel and each place of electricity consumption in the apartment with a separate wire. This will lead to a large consumption of electrical wiring and the need to make wide and deep grooves in order to be able to lay several rows of wire in them.

Ultimately, the disadvantages of this method will outweigh the disadvantages many times over. use of junction boxes. Savings due to abandoning the latter will be many times depreciated by increased costs for electrical wiring.

One can sometimes hear this as an argument against the use of junction boxes; Although laying a separate line to each point of consumption is economically inferior to the option with junction boxes, it is safer, since it eliminates the connection of wires at nodal points.

There is only one answer to this. Correct and professionally performed, it is absolutely safe. While everyone has the right to their own point of view, the option of using junction boxes is still more preferable than without them.

Where and how to install distribution boxes?

Distribution boxes are installed at a distance of 10-30 cm from the ceiling - depending on the height of the latter.

When wiring is hidden, the boxes are embedded in the wall, so that the top of their covers is flush with the surface of the wall. With open wiring, the boxes are installed without embedding into the wall on its surface.

PUE (electrical installation rules) require that access to the box cover be provided for inspection if necessary. With the overhead installation method, this requirement is met automatically.

When installing inside the wall, you need to take care of two things. Firstly, it is necessary that the location of the box is known and access to it is provided, and secondly, that the aesthetics of the room do not suffer. The first requirement is more important and must be met in any case.

The second is subjective, depending on the taste of the owner. Aesthetics can be achieved in different ways. When applying wallpaper, carefully trim it around the lid, leaving it in place. This will make it possible to see the location of the box and at the same time make it practically no different from neighboring places.

If you use another method of decorating the walls, you need to make sure that the surface of the cover is the same color as the wall, and that you can remove the cover without destroying the wall in this place.

When installing suspended ceilings, to access the boxes (if they are hidden behind the ceiling surface), it is necessary to install small hatches.

How to connect wires in a junction box?

The PES states that the connection of wires should be made by welding, soldering, crimping or using screw and bolt clamps.

If out of all the methods you choose the one that is the best according to the criterion of manufacturability + reliability, then this can be considered twisting wires followed by soldering (welding). The use of clamps is also technologically advanced, but it does not provide the contact area that twisting and soldering provide.

Some are limited to just one twist. If it is done well, it provides a contact area no less than crimping or using clamps. However, twisting without soldering cannot be considered absolutely reliable.

After wire connections they must be well insulated with electrical tape, and the contact points must be placed in the junction box in such a way that they do not contact each other.

When the work is completed, you can check its quality by turning on some energy-intensive device for a while and checking all the junction boxes for heating at the connections.

If you find that a connection is heating up, it means that the contact area in it is insufficient, and it needs to be redone.

A distribution box is an electrical product within which cable cores are interconnected. Only with its help can you correctly connect a socket, switch or lamp to a power source. It also serves to protect connections from

ingress of dust, moisture, foreign objects and to prevent accidental contact with them.

Boxes come in external (open) and internal (hidden) installation. External ones are designed for connecting cables laid openly: in corrugated cables, metal hoses or plastic cable ducts. To insert the corrugations inside, they are equipped with rubber seals to ensure the required tightness.

IP68 sealing glands for junction box

Boxes used in conjunction with cable ducts do not have clearly marked places for cable entry inside. They are sawed through during installation; in some models, to facilitate this procedure, the body is made thinner in several places.

Boxes for indoor installation walled up in the walls. Hidden wiring cables are installed inside. To insert them inside, places with a thinner body wall are provided, usually round in shape. During installation, the housing is broken in the right places, cables are inserted into the box, and the resulting free spaces in the openings between them and the box body are covered with plaster.

All boxes are equipped with removable covers, through which access to the connections is provided. Sometimes inside them there are permanently installed terminal blocks for connecting cable cores.

Choosing a location for installing the box

When installing electrical wiring yourself, you must lay it parallel or perpendicular to the surfaces of the floor and ceiling. The distance from the ceiling to the cables being laid should be 20-30 cm. It is advisable to place boxes feeding a switch or socket above them. This is done so that the box can be easily found. In order not to spoil the design of the premises, they are usually walled up flush with the surface of the walls and then covered with wallpaper. The box that powers the outlet and is located above it, if necessary, will be found faster than one located arbitrarily.

You can install boxes above hanging or stretch ceilings, but then it is necessary to provide access to them for possible subsequent repairs. After all, contact connections are weak point electrical wiring and over time can weaken or even burn out. For repairs, you will need to open the ceiling. This process will lead to unreasonable material costs, and if the installation location of the box is unknown, to very large ones. The same applies to the location of the box hidden in the wall. It should not be covered with a layer of plaster. To open the lid, the maximum that can be done is to cut off the wallpaper opposite it. They can then be glued in place or you can use a scrap of leftovers that inevitably appear after pasting.

To access the boxes located above suspended ceiling, ventilation hatches are built into its surface.

The location of outdoor boxes is determined mainly by design and saving cable lengths. To do this, they are also installed opposite switches, sockets and lamps. But even here you should not install them in hard to reach places so as not to complicate your work.

When installing boxes outdoors with your own hands, you need to choose products with a degree of protection of at least IP44.

IP44 junction box

But for guaranteed protection against the penetration of precipitation, it is better to install them under canopies, roofs, and awnings. But the degree of protection of boxes installed outdoors cannot be degraded, even if rain and snow never fall on them. Wet air, penetrating inside, leads to the formation of condensation, deteriorating the insulation between connections or leading to their corrosion. In the first case, a short circuit is possible, in the second - oxidation and contact failure.

Installation of distribution box

Installation of junction boxes in walls can be done in different ways, depending on the availability of tools. The optimal and least labor-intensive option is to use a hammer drill attachment called a crown.

It is a ring with pobedite or diamond cutting edges, in the center of which a concrete drill is located. The drill performs the functions of centering the crown, and it itself cuts out a round segment from the wall.

An example of a diamond-coated concrete bit that can be used to drill holes for distribution boxes

After drilling to the required depth, the segment is removed with a hammer and chisel or a mounting blade mounted on a hammer drill.

There are crowns of various diameters to suit any size of junction box

Holes can also be made with the mounting blade itself, especially for a rectangular box or large sizes. First, you need to drill holes along the edges of the required opening using a concrete drill. The section of wall between the holes is cut out using a spatula and a hammer drill set to the hammer mode, or with a hammer and chisel. Instead of a chisel, you can use a wide flat-head screwdriver with a strong handle. Installation of holes in the walls of a panel house is carried out only with a hammer drill; other methods will not bring results. At the same time, holes for sockets and switches are installed.

Then grooves are laid, cables are laid in them, the ends of which are inserted into boxes so that the ends 10-15 cm long stick out from them. It is better to cut the cables in the boxes in advance. The cables must enter the box itself uncut, more than a centimeter long. If the box is small, the length of the uncut cable in it must be minimized, otherwise the wires will not fit into it later. If, when sealing the grooves, there is a possibility of the cables shifting along the length, then cut them in the connecting, as well as in mounting boxes under a socket or switch it is better after finishing the plastering work.

Installation of cables in the junction box

After the plaster has hardened, you can electrical connections. To correctly connect sockets and switches in boxes with your own hands, you need to follow the action plan described below.

Place the cut cable cores to the sides, grouping them according to their purpose. First, it is better to decide on the protective conductors (PE). In cables they are yellow-green. Collect into one bundle the PE conductors going to the lamp housings, to the sockets, from the power source and to the next box. Be careful: the yellow-green wire going to the switch does not belong to this connection. It is important to remember: even if you do not plan to install an outlet with a grounding contact, a three-core cable must go to it, and its PE conductor in the box or panel must be connected. This is done so that in the future it will be possible to replace a regular outlet.
To prevent the bun from falling apart, tie it together with a tie or tape. Connecting the wires can be done right away, but it is better to complete the planning process completely, since you will need to untangle the remaining wires.
Collect all zero working conductors into a bundle. They - of blue color, and are assembled from supply and outgoing cables, as well as those supplying the outlet. An exception also applies to cables to switches.
Then we collect together the phase conductors of the incoming and outgoing cable lines, sockets and add to them one conductor from the cables going to the switches. The color of these conductors may be white, black or other, but not yellow-green or blue. From the switch cable we take a conductor of the same color as the phase conductors.
We are putting together a diagram for connecting lamps. To do this, we take blue or yellow-green wires from the switches and connect them to the remaining unassigned phase conductors of the lamps. This case is an exception to the rule, when yellow-green or blue wires can be used to connect a phase, that is, not for its intended purpose.
We connect grouped cores using one of the following methods: welding, soldering, installation of terminals.
We isolate the connections.
We put the wires in the box.

Today we will talk about how to install a junction box in concrete. An electrical junction box is a small container made of plastic or metal in which all groups of conductors in a certain room are connected.

Appointments of this product the following:

Providing the possibility of repair and maintenance of the home electrical network. For example, if the connection of the input wires to a room with an outlet group fails, you can easily repair the problem area.
Possibility of connecting new lines to the room electrical wiring. If you decide, you will not need to pull another cable from the main panel, but just create a new route from the distribution box.
Security uniform distribution electrical energy throughout the room by creating several main power lines connecting into a single whole.

As you can see, this product plays an important role in any other room.

Design

The design is quite simple and consists of a container with a lid, as well as inlet openings - seals (if the container is of an external installation type). The photo shows in detail the components of the electrical distribution box, hidden and external:

As you can see, the products are different from each other, but still perform the same function.

Please note that the distribution box for hidden wiring may have claws with springs installed on the sides. Their purpose is additional fixation if installation is carried out in a plasterboard wall.

Varieties

As you already understood, today there are several types of electrical distribution boxes. As a rule, the division occurs according to the following characteristics:

material of manufacture (metal or plastic);
installation method (open or hidden);
product shape (rectangular, round, square);
size.

Metal and plastic

Metal junction boxes have been used since the last century, when the plastic version had not yet been invented.

Not rare metal version products are still in use today. Most often, the installation of metal distribution boxes is carried out in a wooden house. This is because the metal, when the cable ignites spontaneously, will prevent the flame from spreading.

The plastic version is more modern. There are products of both external and hidden types. Their advantage is their low price, convenient design and attractive appearance. By the way, there are fireproof junction boxes made of self-extinguishing plastic.

External and hidden

If the wiring in the room is carried out in an open way, an external junction box is used. When installing under plaster, a hidden type product is used.

For hidden installation For outdoor installation

Both options do their job quite well, but it is still easier to repair and operate a wall-mounted object.

In addition, there are distribution boxes with terminals that allow you to efficiently connect the wires to each other. Such products are usually made for outdoor use.

Rectangular, square, round

Distribution boxes are also available in various geometric shapes. The reason for this is various purposes. If only a few wires will be supplied, a round shape will be enough. At large quantities cores, it is necessary to use rectangular or even square containers, because they have a large capacity.

Please note that installing a round junction box in concrete takes less time, because... There is no need to level the product! At the same time, for open electrical wiring, a square-shaped product will look more beautiful.

As for the sizes, they can be different, depending on what cable section you have chosen. We immediately recommend that you read the article: for electrical installation work.

Connection instructions

As we said earlier, the installation of the distribution box can be carried out in an open or hidden way. Let's consider the main stages of each method.

Outdoor installation

This type of installation is simpler and does not take much time.

For your attention, step-by-step instructions that will help you install the junction box in the wall yourself:

Turn off the power to the house and check for power using an indicator screwdriver. We talked about this in the corresponding article.
Mark the attachment points with a simple pencil.
Secure the box to the concrete wall using dowels. The design of the product includes 2 holes for self-tapping screws.
Cut off the ends of the seals to enter all groups of wires. The cuts should have a diameter slightly smaller than the cable cross-section to protect the wiring from dust and moisture.
Connect the wires together. To do this, we recommend that you read. All you need is to correctly connect phase to phase, zero to zero and ground to ground (for the socket group). To connect introductory group with a group of switches and lighting, read the article:.
Insulate joints with PVC insulation if necessary.
Close the lid.

That's the whole technology for installing a distribution box in concrete with your own hands. I would also like to immediately note that the most reliable is soldering and VAG terminals.

Hidden installation

Installation in a hidden way is more labor-intensive, but still possible for a novice electrician.

So:

Finally, I would like to give one useful tip - when connecting wires, label each group (for example, sockets, switches, chandelier, etc.). This will allow you to quickly find the necessary core during renovation work in the apartment.