Siberian climbing rose. The best climbing roses of Siberia with reviews and descriptions. Rose variety Solero

Each of those who love flowers certainly dreams of growing rose bushes with a huge number of flowers on their plot, but some believe that they will not be able to cope with the labor-intensive work associated with planting and care, while others are stopped by the harsh climate of Siberia. Among other things, some amateur gardeners simply cannot decide on the shape, color or variety of rose.

Historical fact

Experienced flower growers answer the question “is it possible to grow climbing roses in harsh Siberian conditions“They answer that the main thing in this matter is desire and patience. And then the plant will certainly delight you with abundant flowering.

It is known that in the distant past, rich merchants from Siberia certainly built closed greenhouses near their houses, in which gardeners grew the most different plants, flowers and trees. Among the variety of species, there were also climbing rose bushes.

Basic conditions

Before planting a rose bush, you should decide how much time and effort you are willing to spend on caring for the plant. This is quite important, since in the harsh conditions of Siberia the process of planting, care and cultivation becomes much more complicated.

If you have a winter garden or a closed, insulated greenhouse for roses and other flowers, then you can admire the blooms even in severe frosts. But if the bushes grow in open ground, then you should prepare for the need to dig them up or insulate them every year. In the first case, everything is quite simple - the bush is carefully removed from the soil, the roots are carefully wrapped in dry and not too light fabric, after which it is placed in basement. Here the climbing rose can be stored until spring.

If the bush remains to winter (make sure that the rose is a frost-resistant variety) in open ground, then at the first frost it is covered, creating an air-dry shelter. Before real frosts, the air can warm up again to +10-15°C. In this case, the bush needs to be opened again, otherwise it will send out young shoots, which will certainly die in the next frost. And this will subsequently negatively affect the bush itself.

How to plant a rose in Siberia?

So, everyone knows that roses love the sun, and therefore it is worth choosing a well-lit place, protected from drafts. Climbing rose bushes will, of course, grow in the shade, but you won’t expect abundant flowering, and even in such conditions the bush is more susceptible to diseases and pests. If we talk about soils, climbing rose bushes can be planted almost anywhere. Only heavy clay and light sandy loam soils are not suitable for full development.

The hole in which the bush will actually be placed is made of such a size that the roots fit freely into it, since in no case should they be “twisted and pushed in.” For young bushes, as a rule, 40x40x40 centimeters are enough, but it all depends on the bush. If the soil is not very suitable for roses, but you really want to plant a bush, dig a hole a little larger, after which the excess space is filled with fertile soil and fertilizers.

Before planting, water the soil, and when the water is absorbed, the bush lowers the soil. The soil around the roots needs to be compacted well and watered again. At first, you can hill up the soil no more than 15 centimeters.

Care

The main measure in the process of caring for climbing rose bushes is pruning dry, damaged or diseased leaves and branches. This helps preserve the rest of the bush. We must not forget about weeds that need to be constantly removed.

Watering is carried out as needed, but loosening the soil the next day after watering is simply necessary, since a crust may form on the surface.

Roses in Siberia

Roses in Siberia. Wintering

I really love roses. However, I’m afraid to breed them at my dacha, because in winter here, in Snezhnitsa, which is 35 km from Krasnoyarsk, it is very cold. However, reading fascinating stories about the flowers of flower growers from the Flower Growers of Krasnoyarsk club, I come to the conclusion that this is not so. So I decided to ask you to tell me more about wintering roses in our climate. Valeria Vostrikova, amateur florist. Krasnoyarsk

Wintering roses in Siberian conditions is one of the main conditions for good rose flowering next year- This is their successful overwintering in open or closed ground. The decisive role of wintering is played by the cultivation of winter-hardy varieties and proper agricultural technology. Roses should be healthy by autumn, and shoots- well ripened. By the way, the ripening of rose wood is delayed by excess moisture and fertilizing with nitrogen at the end of summer.

Snow cover also plays an important role. His optimal height in local conditions it should be 20-25 cm in November, and in the winter months- 50-55 cm. This is why roses winter well (note) in the area of ​​Snezhnitsa and Kryuchkovo stations, but poorly- in the Solontsy area. So you, Valeria, were lucky from the very beginning.

But let's move on. For successful wintering of roses, two methods are used: storing them in the basement or dry shelter once in the ground. In early October, before digging, roses are cut 30-35 cm from the ground, leaves are removed, unripe shoots (red herbaceous) are cut into rings and sprayed with copper preparations (hom, copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, etc.).

Roses dug up with a clod of earth are placed in plastic buckets (covered with moss on top) or thick plastic bags, which are tightly tied with twine near the root collar. At night temperatures from minus 7° to minus 9° Celsius, roses are lowered into the basement.

The most winter-hardy roses- these are park varieties, many of them winter even in Siberia without shelter (Queen of the North variety), others- bent to the ground and wrapped around non-woven material.

Hybrid tea roses do not tolerate winter well, and some varieties in Siberian conditions die even at minus 10 degrees Celsius without shelter. More hardy to wintering: climbing. roses, roses of the floribunda group, polyanthas and some miniatures.

To overwinter roses in the ground, it is necessary to create a dry shelter that will reliably protect the plant from moisture penetration and the air inside the shelter- from hypothermia. Climbing roses are removed from their supports, 2-3-year-old shoots are cut out, leaves are removed (climbing roses are not pruned), bent onto previously laid out spruce branches, pinned to the ground with staples and treated with copper preparations.

At temperatures from -5 to -7 degrees Celsius, roses are covered on top with spruce branches, non-woven material and film. The film is fixed on 3 sides, and on the north- at a level of 10-15 cm from the ground. Grafted and self-rooted roses (3-4 years old) are pruned 30 cm from the ground, immature shoots are cut out and treated with copper preparations.

If roses are planted in rows, arches are installed above them. The roses are covered with spruce branches, craft paper or roofing felt is placed on the arches to prevent condensation, a film is pulled on top, securing it on the sides, and the ends are left open. With the onset of frost they are lowered.

The issue of hilling roses with earth, humus, and sawdust (as recommended in the literature) is very controversial. I don’t use this method because I have a lot of snow in my garden, and with such cover the roses damp out and die.

Roses react to spring warming, and in April their period of natural dormancy ends, the most important time for roses begins- removing cover. If you open roses early, spring frosts can destroy the plants; if you open them late, the roses can dry out. At the end of April, it is necessary to remove snow from the shelter of roses and make drainage grooves for water. If your roses are closed with four sides, then it is necessary, as the weather gets warmer, to open the ends of the shelters during the day and lower them at night.

When warm weather sets in and the soil thaws to a depth of 10-15 cm (this happens in early May), you can begin to finally remove the shelters. This must be done in three stages in calm, cloudy weather to avoid sunburn of the bark and drying out of the roses by the wind, since they have been in a humid environment for a long time without access to air.

The first stage is to remove the film, leaving the covering material and spruce branches; second- after 3-4 days we remove the covering material; third- After a week we remove the spruce branches. All this must be done in cloudy weather or in the evening after sunset. By this time the soil should thaw completely.

Climbing roses are strengthened on supports, broken, dry and frost-damaged branches are cut out. All roses are treated with copper preparations.

Trimming. In our conditions, spring pruning cannot always be carried out according to all the rules, since the ground part of garden roses can completely die and the restoration of the bush will take place due to the growth of dormant buds that have overwintered underground, so pruning is carried out to healthy wood on the outer bud.

Feeding. In the spring, after opening the roses and pruning them, fertilizing is carried out. It is necessary to add 5 kg of humus, 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt per 1 meter of area. This fertilizer mixture is incorporated by deep loosening the soil. The soil under the rose bushes is then mulched with humus. After all the activities, if the weather is cold and unstable in May, the roses can be covered with covering material for 6-10 days, and when the buds begin to develop, remove it in the evening.

When developing shoots of grafted roses, it is necessary to see in time the growth of wild shoots, which differ from cultivated plant smaller foliage and thorniness. It develops very quickly, weakening the grafting of the cultivated variety, which can lead to its death (the bush runs wild). Wild growth must be cut out at the very beginning of its appearance. To do this, you need to dig up the ground around the emerging shoot and cut it out at the very base.

If you cut it at ground level, it will only stimulate its growth from buds located underground. After cutting out the overgrowth, it is necessary to cover this place again with soil.

Roses in Siberia: reproduction

Propagation of roses. The main methods of propagation are: grafting, budding with a dormant or germinating eye, dividing the bush by root shoots, layering and cuttings. I do not know how to graft and budding roses, so I do not use these methods.

Propagation of roses by dividing the bush is used for park roses and some own-rooted miniature roses. To do this, in early spring, before the buds open, the bush is dug up and divided into parts so that the root system of each division is preserved.

Roses are propagated by root suckers, which easily form shoots. These are decorative forms of rose hips and their hybrids. In the spring, the shoots are cut off with a sharp shovel and planted in another place.

The propagation method by layering is convenient for climbing and ground cover roses. For annual shoots, the bark is cut along their length above the bud and placed in specially prepared grooves, pinning them near the buds. Over the summer, shoots grow in these places. By autumn, the cuttings are dug up, divided into rooted parts and, in our conditions, stored in the basement in damp sand.

The easiest and most affordable way to propagate roses- cuttings of semi-lignified shoots with their subsequent rooting. Cuttings of miniature roses are almost complete, somewhat worse- polyanthus, floribunda and climbing plants, are the worst to take cuttings hybrid tea roses. The best time for cuttings- March-June. At a later date, cuttings can be carried out, but rooted cuttings do not overwinter well and almost completely die.

Cuttings are taken from faded or blind shoots (which do not end in a bud) from the middle part. Germination of lateral buds is unacceptable. Cut cuttings with two- three internodes, bottom sheet remove and use a sharp razor to make an oblique cut at an angle of 45 degrees as close to the kidney as possible. The upper cut is made straight 0.5 cm from the upper bud.

The leaves on the cuttings should be smooth, clean and free from pests and diseases. To reduce moisture evaporation, large leaves are shortened by 1/3. Purchased Dutch roses practically do not take cuttings, apparently this is due to their processing for long-term storage.

There are many ways to root rose cuttings, the simplest is rooting in water. The prepared cuttings are placed in clean, unboiled water, poured into clean jars. There should be enough water so that the lower cut of the cutting is 1-1.5 cm below its level. As the water evaporates, add settling water at room temperature. Place the jar in a warm, bright place- and after 10-12 days callus appears, and then white roots. When roots appear, the cuttings should be planted in a nursery with soil and covered with a jar or a cut plastic white bottle.

Particular attention should be paid to the composition of the soil: sand, rotted humus, peat and turf soil in a ratio of 0.5:1:1:1. The soil must be sterile (steamed in a water bath).

Second way- cuttings directly into an earthen mixture (sterile) with coarse sand (washed and calcined) poured on top. Shoots for cuttings are cut in the morning. For better rooting, prepared cuttings are dipped in a zircon solution for 10-12 hours (the dosage is indicated on the package) or root is used, dusting the lower cut of the cutting.

The cuttings treated in this way are planted in separate nurseries filled with sterile soil, and on top- 2 cm of sand. The soil should be moist, but not wet. The cuttings are planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm, lightly squeezing them, watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and covered plastic bottle. After 10 days callus appears, and after 15-20 days- roots, so after a month the cuttings begin to get accustomed to fresh air, gradually opening and spraying them with a spray bottle.

40-50 days after cuttings, they can be transplanted into pots filled with an earthen mixture: turf soil, humus, sand 3:1:1, sterile mixture. If a seedling from the buds begins to develop on your cuttings after 3-4 days, such cuttings are not viable, since the seedlings develop due to the plastic material of the cutting, and the cutting dies after some time.

In summer, cuttings can be planted in seedling beds using all agricultural techniques. They are developing well and gaining color. It is better to pinch the buds for better development of the root system. In autumn, cuttings are dug up and stored in a cold room or in a room on a south window with lighting, providing them good care(spraying, tick control).

We very briefly became acquainted with the agricultural technology of roses, including wintering. Now let's get down to business. Good luck to you, dear flower growers!

Climbing roses that bloom all summer: winter-hardy varieties - selection, planting and caring for them! Cheap fence with your own hands Growing roses from cuttings from a bouquet Do-it-yourself staircase to the second floor Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams

Top 5 most unpretentious and winter-hardy varieties of roses

What roses can still be considered the most suitable for the climate of the Moscow region, the Urals, and Siberia? This is one of the famous varieties called Westerland. This rose can please the gardener with constant rich flowering. The appearance of the first inflorescences on the bushes should be expected quite quickly after planting. At first they are painted in a characteristic rich orange color. Over time, the color of the same winter-hardy flower changes to apricot.

Each specimen is about 10 cm in diameter. By their appearance these perennials owe to the efforts of breeders from Germany. As the bushes grow, the gardener can create a true decoration of his garden from the flowers. This species is not only the most unpretentious, but even has a special certificate that states this feature.

New Dawn

This type of flower stands out from others hybrid varieties. In the process of breeding it, breeders used distant relatives of this crop from America. The result was a magnificent specimen, endowed with such qualities as frost resistance, high immunity to diseases and pests; flowers that are beautiful in appearance and have a refined aroma. The flowers of such winter-hardy plants are traditionally painted in pleasant soft orange and cream colors. Currently, a special variety is known - the white rose - the flowering of which the gardener can observe only once a year. Therefore, when purchasing seedlings, it is recommended to clarify whether these crops are continuously flowering.

This type does not actually require difficult landing seedlings, complex care. It has a number of advantages: resistance to cold, draft, wind and other climate difficulties. He received stable immunity to major diseases. The bush growing on the site can reach 1 meter in height and have a large number of inflorescences on the branches. The gardener gets the opportunity to admire the velvety flowers. Initially they are colored red, but over time they acquire a delicate purple tint.

Golden Celebration

Fifth in the ranking of the most suitable species for gardening, having the necessary characteristics, is Golden Celebration. These beautiful flowers also owe their appearance to specialist David Austin. The culture is well suited for cultivation in the climate of the Moscow region. When conducting easy care This beauty can be observed blooming twice a year.

The flowers are usually round in shape, rich yellow in color and have a caramel aroma with hints of lemon juice.

They appear on stems, the average length of each of which is about 60 cm. Such bushes grow and develop normally, regardless of the vagaries of the weather. They also practically do not get sick, which makes it easier for the gardener to care for his favorite plants.

Video "Rose Westerland"

In this video you will hear a description of the Westerland rose.

7 best varieties of roses for Siberia, winter-hardy and frost-resistant

7 best varieties of roses for Siberia: winter-hardy and frost-resistant

This review presents the hardiest, frost-resistant varieties adapted to the climatic and soil conditions of Siberia. These plants are characterized by strong immunity to major diseases and pests., do not lose their decorative properties during heavy rainfall.

Chippendale ( Chippendale)

Chippendale roses

A plant that forms a bush 80-120 cm high and 100 cm wide. Double flowers in the old style, bright orange color diameter 10-12 cm. Recommended for planting in massive flower beds, as an accent in the background.

Queen Elizabeth ( Queen Elizabeth)

Queen Elizabeth Roses

Bush height from 100 to 250 cm. Double flowers, goblet-shaped, Pink colour 10 cm in diameter. The plant forms a compact bush, suitable for planting in limited space . Grows well in poor soils.

Golden Celebration ( Golden Celebration

Roses Golden Celebration

The variety is rightfully considered the best among red roses. The plant forms a lush bush 100-120 cm high and 100 cm wide. It is distinguished by the rapid flowering of new shoots and the formation of large clusters that stay on the bush for more than 2 weeks. The flowers are densely double, bright purple, more than 10 cm in diameter with a characteristic aroma. Suitable for single and group plantings.

New Dawn ( New Dawn

Roses New Dawn

A climbing plant that reaches up to 5 m in height with support, and up to 2 m without it. The variety is characterized by continuous flowering from June to late autumn . The flowers are pastel pink, 7-8 cm in diameter. The bush reveals itself most brightly when planted near a tree while the lashes hang freely from the branches.

Westerland ( Westerland)

Westerland roses

The variety is distinguished by a tall (2 m) and wide bush (1.5 m). Double flowers 10-11 cm in diameter with a pronounced aroma. They change color throughout the season: orange and apricot shades gradually turn into pink. The plant can be used as a climbing and bush plant. The variety is self-sufficient for single plantings.

Rosarium Jutersen ( Rosarium Uetersen)

Roses Rosarium Uetersen

Lush shrub 200-350 cm high and 200 cm wide. Flowers 9-12 cm in diameter, densely double, rich pink shade with a light aroma. Suitable for decorating spacious lawns.

Which roses are the most unpretentious and winter-hardy, with photos and names of varieties

Scrubs are frost-resistant. In the middle zone they can winter without shelter; in regions with severe frosts they require only light shelters. It is customary to include many subgroups of scrubs. Basically, this group includes varieties that are not ideally suited to other species. The most frost-resistant varieties are:

Crown Princess Margaret. The height of the bush is 2.5 meters. Flowering is abundant from June to October. Apricot flowers, rich in color. Has a strong fruity aroma. Snow ballet. The flowers are white. Up to 7 centimeters in diameter, with a delicate aroma. Gazebo. Resistant to drought, frost, disease, rain and fading. Flowers up to 12 centimeters in diameter, golden pink. Flowering is long lasting. Munstead Wood. The color of the flowers is burgundy or red, crimson at the beginning of flowering. The bush is dense, large in diameter, up to one and a half meters high. Lilac rain. A variety with increased frost resistance, does not freeze even in the absence of snow. Blooms with lilac flowers. The flowers are small, densely double. Flowering is wavy, repeated. The height of the bush is 60-120 centimeters. Abraham Derby. Pink-apricot flowers, richer in color in the center and lighter at the edges. The diameter of the flower is about 14-15 centimeters. 2-3 flowers are formed on one stem. The bush is 130-140 centimeters high. Piano. The flowers are spherical at the bud stage and cup-shaped, densely double when open. Depending on the variety, the flowers range from soft cream to burgundy. The diameter of the flower is about 12 centimeters. Flowering is wavy. The height of the bush is 120-130 centimeters, the width is no more than 60 centimeters. It tolerates frost well, but is not resistant to rain. Toscanini. One of the most frost-resistant varieties, can winter without shelter even during severe frosts. It blooms in red, the diameter of the flower is about 10 centimeters. If heavily pruned, it can overwinter without shelter. The height of the bush is 130 centimeters. The stems are of uneven length, which gives the bush a somewhat unkempt appearance.

Unpretentious roses - the best varieties, photos, descriptions

Unpretentious roses: the best varieties, photos, description

Which roses are the most unpretentious and winter-hardy - this question interests many beginning gardeners and gardeners. To decorate your personal plot you need to choose the right varieties of roses. For the Moscow region, for Siberia, for the Urals, as well as for other northern regions, you can purchase seedlings of cold-resistant varieties. They have proven themselves to be excellent in low temperature conditions.

The best winter-hardy varieties of roses are:

Rosarium Uetersen. The most unpretentious roses, easy to care for and not demanding on the climate. The only peculiarity is the colder the air external environment, the smaller the inflorescences. However, these are roses of indescribable beauty that bloom all summer. Winter-hardy varieties, like Rosarium Uetersen, deserve attention from beginning gardeners. Abundantly flowering bushes can be placed anywhere in the garden. Rosarium Uetersen belongs to the climbing group (Climber). At correct installation powerful stems, which sometimes reach 3 meters in length, they can be grown using the standard method. William Sheakespeare 2000. It is known for its velvety, rich and fragrant flowers. It is this variety of rose flowers that the world-famous breeder David Austin recommends for beginning gardeners. The English William Sheakespeare 2000 is absolutely not whimsical. When growing seedlings, when caring for them, as well as during the growing season in open ground, it does not require special attention. In addition, this variety of Austin roses (the catalog of varieties of this grower also includes another variety of the same name without the prefix “2000”, which has less advantageous properties and requires more careful care), is resistant to cold, winds, drafts and other vagaries and climate changes. He is not afraid of many infections and illnesses. Westerland. Another option for the most unpretentious roses for the dacha. Main characteristic feature this variety of roses (see photo) is continuous flowering. The first inflorescences appear relatively early. At first, the color of the flowers is bright orange. Abundant flowering allows you to decorate country yard and please the owner's eye. Any landscape solution using Westerland will be original. Mature flowers acquire a dark apricot hue. It should be noted that the plant was bred by German breeders. Golden Celebration Bred by breeder David Austin, they are very popular all over the world. These Austin roses are the best variety for the Moscow region. The bush blooms twice a year, but very profusely and it looks indescribably beautiful. The flowers are round in shape and bright yellow in color. They emit a caramel aroma, mixed with the smell of lemon juice. The stems are small. The average height does not exceed 60 cm. They are practically not susceptible to diseases and feel good under changing climatic conditions. New Dawn. You can safely classify it as one of the best varieties hybrid roses. It was bred on the basis of distant American relatives of this flower. New Dawn is designed for all weather conditions and is endowed with many advantages for a beginning summer resident - frost-resistant, resistant to diseases and pests, very fragrant and beautiful. The abundantly flowering bush has lush flowers cream or soft orange shades. New Dawn varieties of white roses are sometimes found. Recently a variety has appeared that blooms only once a year. They are used, to a greater extent, for flower beds of continuous flowering. Chippendale. One of the top three winter-hardy rose varieties for the Moscow region and Siberia. It is a very beautiful plant with complex flowers and a delicate aroma. Fits perfectly into any landscape design personal plot. Chippendale is not at all whimsical and is very resistant to cold, heat and changeable climate in general. The flowers are quite large and reach about 12 cm in diameter. The bushes are very beautiful and easy to shape. Notable is the fact that cut Chippendale flowers can be stored in a vase for up to 2 weeks. The main color is orange, rich and light at the same time. Black Magic. A wonderful variety of roses that bloom all summer. German breeders began breeding these flowers back in 1997. They were bred for commercial cultivation. Entrepreneurs value these flowers for their unpretentiousness, frost resistance and incredible beauty. They can be stored cut for up to 3 weeks in water. When a flower blooms, its center has a dark red (scarlet) tint, and the edges remain black and red with a smooth transition. Velvety, large petals fascinate with their beauty. Black Magic is the most unpretentious variety roses for the Moscow region. Robusta. One of the most popular plants among gardeners. It grows as a lush bush and belongs to the class of scrub roses. The color of its flowers is very bright and rich in various shades. Petals of various shapes will allow you to choose the plant that suits you. Robusta does not require much maintenance and is frost-resistant. In the description of this variety of roses, which are resistant to cold weather, there is even an advantageous property - it can recover even after slight freezing. Rugelda. The variety of fragrant roses Rugelda also has strong frost resistance. Their main color is yellow (light lemon). The edges of the petals have a wavy, densely double structure with a light red tint. The flowers of the Rugelda variety are cup-shaped, which gives them a unique appearance. This litter does not require special care. Many summer residents note that they don’t even need to be covered for the winter. Even the most severe frosts are not scary for her. Hansaland. Lovers of elegant flowers are offered the most unpretentious variety of garden roses called Hansaland. Their compact, low bushes with large, lush, deep red flowers will become a real decoration. country garden or flower beds. The average height of the bush is a little less than one and a half meters - perfect option for creating a hedge in the country. Very easy to shape.

Growing roses in Siberia: choosing winter-hardy varieties + rules for planting and care Siberians joke that weaklings cannot survive in their harsh winters. A persistent character is needed, not only for people, but also for plants. So the criteria for selecting colors for site design in Siberian conditions are much more severe than for the Moscow region or the southern regions of the country. And yet, residents of cold regions successfully grow even beautiful roses. They have developed many interesting ways to cover plants and planting tricks to protect the root system during harsh winters. We looked through the forums of Siberian gardeners and selected the most important information about frost-resistant varieties, winter shelter technology, and what are the features of planting roses in spring in Siberia. Contents Rose varieties for cold climates First place: Rosarium Uetersen Second place: Westerland Third place: New Dawn Fourth place: William Sheakespeare 2000 Fifth place: Golden Celebration Choice of location: looking for the sunny side Planting rules: light soil + depth Siberian methods of covering such roses Varieties roses for cold climates The Siberian climate is known to be characterized by late spring, short summers and harsh winters. To withstand such conditions, plants must initially be zoned to the local climate. Those. In terms of survival rate, seedlings grown in Siberian nurseries are in the lead. Gardeners give second place to Canadian roses, because the climate of this country is similar to Siberian. But real Canadian roses, unfortunately, come across rarely. This category of plants is too attractive for buyers, so it is most often counterfeited. Canadian varieties It is better to purchase only from a reliable supplier, and, naturally, not from hand or on the market. The second selection criterion is vaccination. According to statistics, grafted varieties of roses in Siberia withstand winters much easier and do not freeze out, because they have higher immunity. The rootstock for a varietal rose is usually a rose hip, and its immune system is much more resilient than that of the rose's own roots. Here is what, according to gardeners in Siberia, the five most unpretentious and winter-hardy varieties of roses look like: First place: Rosarium Uetersen Belongs to the Climber group, i.e. large-flowered climbing roses. Can also be grown as a standard. Blooms with dark pink petals that gradually fade. The flower size can reach 12 cm, but the colder the climate, the smaller the inflorescences will be. The approximate size of flowers for Novosibirsk is 5-6 cm. Rosarium Uetersen is loved for its resistance to fungal infections, repeated flowering (the first is the most abundant, and then in waves). Powerful stems are not afraid of frost or wind. Gardeners can ruin this rose only if it is improperly laid out for the winter, when the stems break due to an unsuccessfully chosen direction of laying. The bush grows up to 3 meters. Rosarium Wetersen fits perfectly into arches, pergolas and other supporting structures, and if desired, it can be grown as a standard Second place: Westerland A German variety, adored in Siberia for its continuous flowering. This rose wakes up and blooms very early, and then practically remains without flowers. The flowers change color from bright orange to apricot-salmon. In diameter - up to 10 cm. Has an ADR certificate as one of the most unpretentious roses. Timely removal of fading flowers from the Westerland climbing rose stimulates the bush to actively grow and form new flower buds Third place: New Dawn A descendant of American roses. It blooms with soft pink, fragrant flowers almost all season. The gardeners of Siberia gave her the nickname “Very”, i.e. very frost-resistant, very unpretentious (grows everywhere), very prickly, very fragrant, etc. The only caveat: recently New Dawn specimens have appeared that bloom only once. Therefore, before ordering, check the number of blooms, otherwise you may see this beauty only once, at the beginning of summer. Siberians believe that New Down lives by the motto “Everyone will perish, but I will remain,” because it survives in the most inhuman conditions. Fourth place: William Sheakespeare 2000 A new generation English rose, nurtured by the world famous breeder David Austin. It blooms with velvety rich red flowers, gradually turning into a purple hue. Fragrant, medium height (up to 110 cm), forms many flowering clusters on each branch. When purchasing, pay attention to the presence of the number 2000, since there is also an ancestor of this rose - William Sheakespeare, which does not have such a high immunity to fungal infections. William Shakespeare 2000 is the result of selection of the English “ancestor” of the same name, which is distinguished by high immunity to diseases and excellent frost resistance. Fifth place: Golden Celebration Another pet of David Austin. Blooms twice, bright yellow large flowers, similar to balls, emitting a lemon-caramel aroma. In cold climates it grows up to one and a half meters tall. Practically not susceptible to diseases, except black spotting. Looks great in mixborders. Sunny, large inflorescences of Golden Celebration smell like lemon candy, so they are planted near vacation spots to enjoy the wonderful aroma. Choice of location: looking for the sunny side Due to the fact that spring comes late in Siberia, and there are not very many sunny days a year a lot, they try to plant roses on the south side. But a completely open area is not very profitable, since the flowering period is significantly accelerated, and the flowers fade in the heat. It is best to consider light partial shade with the help of sparsely leafed shrubs or trees. Roses are planted near them in such a way that during the hottest time of the day they are protected by the foliage of the “neighbors”. It is advisable to select high places on the site for the rose garden. There, the degree of soil freezing is always less, which means the roots will wake up faster. This will save the plant from high humidity, which is typical for lowlands. Too much moisture provokes the development of rot and fungal infections. Not uncommon in Siberia strong winds, with the cold front advancing from both the north and the west. From these directions (north, northwest and northeast), roses need protection in the form of buildings, arbors, living coniferous fences etc. But the wall should be at such a distance that a shadow is not cast on the bushes. Planting rules: light soil + depth For the Siberian climate, desirable spring planting, and their period is much shorter than in other areas. The planting season begins in May, when the soil warms up to 10 degrees. Gardeners determine the optimal time for dandelions: as soon as they bloom, it’s time to plant rose bushes. Grafted seedlings are planted first, because rose hips are not afraid of sudden late frosts. Own root roses - no earlier than May 15. The maximum planting date is June 15. If you are late, the rose will not have time to grow stronger during the short summer and will go into the winter without a lignified trunk. This means it will freeze easily. Siberian landing Roses are not much different from other areas. Spiny beauties like slightly acidic soils with a high humus content. The basis of the soil can be loam. When planting, it is good to place it at the bottom of the hole and sprinkle it with rotted horse manure, which will warm the roots. Bushes are not planted directly in manure, so as not to burn the young roots. The optimal composition of the soil is: 1 part clay + 1 part sand + 3 parts humus + 2 parts peat + 0.5 parts wood ash. It’s not bad if you immediately apply special fertilizer for roses. Planting rules: Depth landing pit- at least half a meter. Purchased seedlings are dipped in a solution of water with a growth stimulator for 3-4 hours so that they are saturated with moisture. Roots that are too long (above 20 cm) are shortened, stimulating the growth of lateral roots. Remove paraffin from the aboveground part and lightly trim the branches (to a healthy green color). The most important point: slightly recessed landing. Many gardeners in Siberia have discovered that tea varieties, English varieties and floribundas survive better in frosts if the grafting site is not 5 cm below the soil level, but 7-8 cm, i.e. a little deeper. Accordingly, for climbing roses you need 12-15 cm. Such plantings can be covered less, and some owners even gave up covering altogether, buying varieties with high frost resistance. When planted in depth, a rose can send out roots above the grafting site, developing its own root system, which is weaker than that of a rose hip, so “wrong” roots must be removed. When planting, the roots of the rose are straightened so that they go only from top to bottom, and are not wrapped in a ring. A planting mound can help with this arrangement: a mound of fertile soil is poured onto the bottom of the hole, a seedling is placed on top of it, the roots are straightened along the mound and sprinkled. When planting a mound, water after the rose is planted. During normal planting, you can first shed the roots and then cover them with soil. After planting, be sure to hill the bush to a height of 15 cm. This is necessary so that the water does not quickly evaporate. The soil will also protect the tender branches from the scorching sun, because once they take root they dry out very quickly. In the northernmost regions, plantings are covered with lutrasil to protect them from night frosts. Siberian methods of covering such roses To prevent growing roses in Siberia from ending in the bushes freezing in the first winter, gardeners have come up with many different covering options. Their similarity is that for roses in cold climates it is necessary to create a dry shelter, i.e. Protect each seedling from above with waterproof material. It will protect the plant from moisture, which instantly turns into ice. Shelter options: “Snow blanket”. If your area is stable snowy winters, then throwing snow on each bush is the best option for shelter. After all, in Siberia, snow falls and remains there until spring, so the temperature underneath is always stable. "Framework made of plastic arcs." They make a frame from two intersecting arcs, place it over the rose, cover the bush halfway with dry soil or leaves, cover it with a double layer of spunbond or lutrasil, on top of which they must spread a film so that it captures part of the soil. Sprinkle the edges of the film with earth. Before the onset of stable frost, the film should be slightly open so that the stems do not dry out. "House made of polycarbonate." Instead of plastic arcs, place two pieces of polycarbonate above the rose, fastened at the top with twine. It turns out to be a house. Cover the top with lutrasil and film. But at the ends the film is closed only after the onset of frost. "From plastic buckets." Each bush is hilled to a height of 20 cm, covered with spruce paws and covered on top plastic containers no holes. This is roughly what it all looks like: You cannot cover roses with lutrasil alone without using film, since during a thaw moisture accumulates inside, and during the first frost it will settle as ice on the plants. Covering roses with spruce paws is recommended for those owners who have a lot of mice, as they they like to make nests in lutrasil. With any type of shelter in early spring, many Siberians repeatedly spill the soil with epin in order to revive their pets. Grateful roses give their owners abundant and fragrant blooms, although nature has given them very little time for this.

The Siberian expanses belong to the zone of risky agriculture, and not every Siberian gardener decides to start a rose garden on his plot. However, growing roses is possible even in harsh climates. About how to choose suitable variety climbing roses for growing in Siberia, will be discussed in the article.

Climatic conditions of Siberia and growing roses

Siberia is a vast territory, including several climatic zones. But the only zone where growing roses in open ground is impossible is the northern regions, located in the subarctic zone. Other areas allow this possibility, although they have their own characteristics:

• Western Siberia. Extends from the Ural Mountains to the Yenisei. The climate is temperate continental. In summer, winds blowing from the north and east dominate here, and the influence of Arctic cyclones is often felt. The average temperature in the summer months is about +20 0 C. In winter, southern and southwestern winds prevail, bringing clear frosty weather. The air temperature can drop below -35 0 C. The snow cover is abundant and stable (Read also article ⇒).
• Eastern Siberia. The territory includes Trans-Baikal, Krasnoyarsk territories, Buryatia, Irkutsk region, the Republic of Tuva and Yakutia. The climate is harsh, sharply continental. Winter temperatures fluctuate from -18 to -50 0 C. In summer, the average is +17 0 C.
• Southern Siberia. Includes regions adjacent to the mountain ranges of Asia. Climatic conditions characterized by contrast. Summer here is short, but warm and even hot, winter is frosty, with heavy snowfalls.

Thus, the conditions for growing roses in Siberia vary depending on the specific region. In addition, the wide variety of soils in this area must be taken into account. Here they can be swampy, frozen-taiga, soddy, soddy-podzolic. In a number of regions there are chernozems and meadow-chernozem soils, which are most favorable for growing roses.

Tip #1. Due to the wide variety of climatic and soil conditions in Siberia, recommendations for varieties of climbing roses are general and rather conditional. When buying a seedling, you need to focus more on your own plot.

Requirements for climbing roses for growing in Siberia

In order for a rose to form a climbing form, it is necessary that its shoots are well preserved in winter along their entire length. This is the main difficulty in growing roses in Siberia. In addition to high frost resistance, varieties of Siberian climbing roses must have the following characteristics:

• ability to quickly grow shoots and restore vegetative mass;
• good immunity to fungal diseases;
• early flowering;
• the ability of a flower to withstand negative weather conditions (rain and wind).

It is very important that the seedling is grafted onto a frost-resistant rootstock. Growing your own roses in Siberia is not recommended.

Tip #2. The experience of Siberian rose growers shows that in this region it is better to purchase seedlings from local nurseries. As a rule, the roses in them are grafted onto local rootstocks, which makes the plants better adapted to the soil and climatic conditions of the area.

Review of varieties of climbing roses for growing in Siberia

Rose varieties of Canadian selection meet the above requirements to a greater extent, since Canadian conditions are similar to Siberian ones. The main efforts of breeders in developing these varieties were aimed precisely at increasing the endurance of plants without loss of decorativeness.

The following varieties of climbing roses can be considered suitable for the Siberian climate:

All listed varieties of roses are recommended forIV zonesUSDA, except for the new Felix Leclerc, which can grow without shelter even inIII zone. The growth energy of these climbing roses varies depending on the air temperature. In warm summers they give very good growth, but in cool summers they can “slow down”. However, these varieties are capable of demonstrating very high decorative value in Siberian conditions.

Reviews from rose growers about climbing roses in Siberia

Rose growers of Siberia, not spoiled by an unlimited assortment of varieties, with great love apply to each established plant. Their reviews of the listed varieties are mostly positive:

“The four J.P. Connell bushes from the 2012 planting are alive and relatively healthy. The first flowering is powerful! In June they are almost completely covered with flowers, like a blanket. The second wave is weak - individual flowers on the tops. Each flower is beautiful both in half-bloom and in full. The flowers last a short time, only a couple of days, so you have to cut off the faded ones every day. There are no thorns, the bushes are easy to care for. In damp summers they catch black spot.”(Nina, Krasnoyarsk).

“My opinion about Quadra is purely positive. The bush is tall, I didn’t measure it with a tape measure, but I tied it up while standing on a stepladder. The flowering is showery and magnificent. The brushes are heavy and huge, but each individual flower is very beautiful - up to 11 cm, lasts a long time, does not fade at all and does not lose shape even when flowering. Flowering is almost continuous. my

Quadra is already 5 years old, but has never been ill with anything. Care is easy, I only do sanitary pruning. I feed it well, and in August I definitely give it potassium so that it winters well. For the winter I leave it in a vertical position, simply covering it with two layers of thick spunbond. There were no problems with wintering"(Tatiana, Yekaterinburg).

“John Davis is growing slowly but diligently in my Tomsk region. It’s noticeable that it doesn’t get enough sun, but it doesn’t freeze in winter. For the winter I send it under a purely symbolic film shelter and throw a good snowdrift on top. Winters well, doesn’t get sick"(Svetlana, Tomsk).

“John Cabot is a wonderful, very abundant rose. It overwinters with me without shelter, under hillocks and snow. Frost -27 0 C is easily tolerated. In 5 years I have never been sick. The downside is that the flowers are not very expressive. But overall they look good."(Olga, Biysk).

The main purpose of climbing roses is vertical gardening. In this regard, the issue of correct garter lashes is relevant. David Gerald Hession, a world-renowned botanist, recommends doing it this way in his book All About Roses:

“The main shoots of climbing roses are directed along the support. Young stems should be tied to the fence with wire wrapped in plastic, rather than wrapped around the wire from which the fence is made. It should be tied loosely so that the stems do not get damaged as they grow in thickness.”

Current questions about climbing roses in Siberia

Question No. 1. When is it better to plant climbing roses in Siberia - in spring or autumn.

Winter comes early in Siberia, so it is better to plant climbing rose seedlings in the spring to give them time to take root.